KTM & Husqvarna WP Xplor Fork Oil Seal Change- Updated

about a month ago i did a ride which was really muddy and uh during the ride i had a lot of mud clicked around the forks in this area and it actually pulled the uh spring off the dust seal and the dust still dropped down and mud a lot of mud entered the dust seal and also the oil seal and i noticed some oil leakage after that right i used a seal mate which is a thin piece of plastic to clean out the oil seal and it seemed to work um but after right last week i had major oil leakage from the all seal so this week's video is going to be about how to replace the fork oil seal [Music] to change the old seals you need a few tools obviously you need some new seals i bought this kit which includes uh new bushes um that's the uh the part number there and then you need some new oil i use the wpr which is a full weight and then tools i've got this dust seal remover tool you can use a flat bladed screwdriver if you don't have one of those and then you need a 24 millimeter um fairly thin wrench so remove the fork cap and a 50 millimeter for the fault cap top and then for the seal installation uh you can use one of these tools which slips over the top of the fork tube and prevents tearing of the seals if you don't have one of these you can wrap some electrical tape or use a uh a plastic bag over the top uh you'll need a heat source i use this gas to heat up the fork tube when removing the oil seals and putting new ones in uh also a driver for 48 millimeter forks um you know obviously you need something to measure the all out uh something to drain the old old oil into and a oil level uh setting tool as well first step is to remove the front wheel when you're working on a suspension um it's important to have it nice and clean so no dirt it's inside the suspension um i've already cleaned the bike um if you haven't cleaned the whole bike make sure you clean the suspension unit before you start actually disassembling it the next step is to fully back off the adjuster before you do it make sure you know what setting it's currently on i already know so i'm just gonna head gonna go ahead and um back it out fully um and then while the forks are still in the triple clamps um i like to loosen the uh fork cap um before you loosen the cap make sure the top clamp bolts are loosened off so it doesn't pinch on the cap threads and then you can go ahead and use the uh the wrench and loosen the cap and you don't need to fully take it off just loosen it and then you can go ahead and loosen the bottom triple clamp pinch bolts and sometimes the fork just slides straight out so be careful especially if you're standing underneath it because it can drop on your toes and then carefully slide the fork out next you can take off the fork guard just held on with three bolts and now is a good time to clean off all the dirt that you can get off when you're washing the bike you can use some parts cleaner on it and a cloth be careful if there's a lot of dirt on the fork tube it's best not to rub up and down because you could get scratches that way much better to go around in this motion clean it off that's looking pretty clean now uh to remove the existing oil seal and put new also in uh it's recommended to heat up this area of the fork tube um so you really need to pull down this plastic protective ring um i've also got carbon guards on and i've put this electrical tape on to seal out dirt so i'm going to remove the tape as well i don't want it melting or anything so once you thoroughly clean the fork uh you can remove the fork cap so as i showed i've already loosened the fork cap while it was in the triple clamps so that's pretty easy to do and then drop the tube down and then you want to get your uh container to drain the all into i'll just drain the oil in there the bike's done 60 hours um it's a little bit dirty but there's no contamination if you get water in there it goes milky but there's none of that which is good the next step is to take the fork cap off and this is a six days model so it has the preload adjuster on the top and the method take cap off is to hold the nut underneath so you need a 24 millimeter wrench on that and then uh to undo it using the preload adjuster if you have a standard model uh you can just use a fork cap wrench and undo it that way um if you use a full cap wrench on the six days model you stand a chance of damaging the preload adjuster so it's recommended not to do it that way so what i've done is i i took an old socket and cut a slot in it so it fits onto the uh preload adjuster like that and then i can use a uh wrench and take it off safely so i put that on and then hold my wrench and then it comes off pretty easily and once the cap is off you can remove the spring and it came off with a spacer so make sure you put that back on when you reassemble the fork okay the next step is to loosen the cartridge lower bolt uh one tool i forgot to mention that you need is a 17 millimeter uh hex and that fits in the the bottom bolt like that um if you've got a vice it's very easy job i use some soft jaws hold the um the axle uh and just loosen like that if you don't have a vise you can put the axle through and then [Music] probably use this if you put it on the ground kind of support it with your foot and you can use the wrench to loosen the nut like that and then take it out and it's a good idea to put a oil pan underneath in case the mold comes out i'm actually gonna loosen it and then take it fully out over the oil pan quite a bit of oil came out once you've drained all the oil out you can take the damper rod out and it just pulls out and then fully drain the rest of the oil you can drain it all out of the damper by moving it to fro and then wipe it off with a clean cloth so this is what the full call looks like after 60 hours of use um it's not super dirty but uh probably needed changing okay so here you can see all the parts i've disassembled so far i've got the fork tubes still assembled the fork cartridge the fork spring with a spacer the lower base valve which required these 17 millimeter hex socket and the fork cap the next step is to disassemble the fork tubes so place a cloth on the ground and then rest the fork tube on the cloth and then use a a large flat bladed screwdriver and the method is to very carefully without slipping uh press the ring down and you work round the fork it's a little bit tricky because it's quite uh stiff but take your time don't rush it and work around the ring just pressing down uh you don't want to slip otherwise you put a big gouge in the fork tubes so just do it slowly that one's very stiff there we go and it's off now then the next step is to take the dust seal off i have this special tool which is designed specifically for doing this if you don't have this you can use a flat bladed screwdriver whatever you use you need to do it very carefully make sure you don't slip because this blade is very thin it slides in quite easily slide it in and then just ease the all the dust seal off pretty easy to do um you see there's quite a lot of oil in there so wipe that off and then there's a uh a snap ring down inside here which you need to remove so i'm going to put it back on the floral and remove that okay so put the uh the fork tube back on the ground on the cloth and then using a small flat bladed screwdriver you can remove the snap ring which holds the oil seal in again you need to do this very carefully so you don't scratch the inner tube and then just run it around and it pops out quite easily uh the next step is to remove the oil seal and in the manual it recommends heating this area of the tube uh to about 50 degrees c um so i'm going to clamp it in the vise with a soft drill and using a gas burner heat up this area that's probably enough remove it from the vise and then just pull it out and it pulls the also straight out so this these are all the parts that i'm going to replace you got the the dust seal the snap ring uh the oil seal and then there's a large washer there the outer tube bush and the inner tube bush so i've got all new parts so i'm going to take these off and replace them to remove the inner tube bushing you can just use a screwdriver spread it apart slide it off and then the other parts will just slide off if you're doing this for the first time make sure you understand which way the oil seal goes on it has this spring at the bottom so when you put the new one on make sure it's the right way around otherwise you have big problems [Music] so that's all the parts off um it's this area you need to basically put something protected a protective over when you put the new parts on to stop them getting damaged if you don't and just put them on like this you could well tear the seals and then it's good time to uh clean off the tubes thoroughly uh with some parts cleaner so the outside is pretty straightforward just spray it on and wipe it down clean the inside you can spray parts cleaner inside and what i like to do is push a cloth down and it's a little bit tricky without something long but a bit of rod uh make sure it doesn't have any sharp bits on and then you can push the cloth down all the way and then push it out like that and that should leave it nice and clean you can see how much dirt came off and then do the same with the outer tube as well cleaning inside push the cloth in push it right through so when you push out the other end and once that's done you can start the reassembly these are all the new parts ready for installation you've got the dust seal the snap ring the oil seal the oil sealed support ring the altitude bushing and the inner tube bushing one thing it does recommend in the repair manual is to go around the uh side areas of the bushes and clip tidy up any sharp areas uh it says to use 600 i've got 1000 which i think will be fine because there aren't any major defects so i just go around like this being careful not to damage the coated area you really just want to get the side bit and go around both sides and then once you've done this clean it off with parts cleaner to get rid of any uh dust or debris and do the same for the outer tube bushing okay so we can now start to assembling the fork um i use this motion pro bullet tool which protects the seals when i put new seals on i like to use some silicone grease around the seal you don't need a huge amount just run some around on the inside area and i i think it helps reduce stiction and the oil seal as well so just put a little bit of oil around and then you can start assembling it so the dust seal goes on first and then the snap ring and then the oil seal make sure you get the uh orientation correct and then the also support ring and then the uh the bushing puts them all on that as well on the inner surface put that on and then you take the tool off and you can put the inner tube bushing on it slides down and then puts them all around that as well okay then you're ready to install the inner tube into the outer tube next step is to heat up the tube it's recommended 50 degrees c so it's going to be super hot should be enough and then you can drive the oil seal in once you've heated up the outer tube rest it on a cloth and grab your inner tube with everything assembled on it um make sure the uh bush is down inside and that the oil support ring is down there and then hold everything up else up above the seal driver put your seal driver on and then drive the bush down and you'll hear change the sound will change when it's fully driven in and then drop your oil seal down and drive that in as well okay and then you just need to put the snap ring in and you can use a you can use your fingers to get it started they usually go in pretty easily and then make sure it's pushed fully down and you should hear a snap it's already seated and inspect to make sure the snap ring is fully seated all the way around and then you can install the uh the dust seal push that down just using your fingers and usually go in pretty easily and then wipe everything up off uh if there's any excess so i can grease or oil you can just wipe that off and that's the install of the seals complete and you can install the uh protection ring as well just slide it down [Music] and push it right down the next step is to install the cartridge into the tubes i've already put the spring spacer on so i don't have to mess around with that afterwards um carefully slide the cartridge into the tubes and then you want to stand the uh tube up and get the cartridge fully seated in the bottom and when it is it just clicked in now um the top of the cartridge should be pretty much level with the outer tube if it's sticking up high it's not seated properly you'll have to wriggle it around to get it down and then when you've got the cartridge inside uh it's easiest if you've got a vise like this use the soft jaws to hold it securely get the bottom bolts install that screw it in and this needs to be torqued to 35 newton meters okay the next step is to fill the fork full of oil you'll need 600 milliliters of oil so carefully pull that in and then once the oil's in you can pull the damper up and bleed it and you want to go to and fro slowly until you feel a smooth action i can still feel a lot of air in the damper okay that feels pretty good now nice and smooth and i don't feel any air in this is the all height adjustment tool it's very simple you can loosen it and change the height of the collar there to whatever setting you like um for the explore fork it's recommended to set it to 110 so you you measure from this part of the collar which sits on the outer tube uh to the end of the tube and then tighten it so from there to there should be 110. okay once you've bled the fork for air uh compress the fork fully have the damper down and then you'll need a full coil height tool i've already set this to 110 milliliters millimeters which is the recommended air gap height and then set the fork upright and then pull a vacuum on the tool and draw out the excess oil you can see there there was a small amount that came out and then you can remove the tool and then that's the all height set correctly then you can pull the cartridge up and install the spring you want to do it fairly quickly so the cartridge doesn't drop down that far and then while pulling the spring down you can thread on the full cap by hand and using a 24 millimeter open-ended wrench and your preload adjuster holder tool you can tighten it up and you want to torque the cap to 25 newton meters so i switched over to my torque wrench and i'm going to talk it to 25 and then screw the cap into the fork outer tube and you need to talk the cap as well but it's easiest to do it when the uh fork is installed in the triple clamps so i'll show you how to do that and at this stage it's a good idea to clean out of any all that might have got on the altitude particularly around the uh area the triple clamps um touch the tube so i've already put the carbon fork guard on um and i'm gonna seal it up with some electrical tape um to stop that getting behind it all right worked very well last time so i'm gonna do the same and uh before applying the tape i like to use some alcohol this is uh ethanol and it gets rid of any grease and ensures that sticks nicely and this is the electrical tape i'm using it's scotch super 88 same as i used last time it worked really well so i'm going to use the same um it's best if you don't stretch it out too much otherwise it would tend to shrink back over time so get it lined up then just press it down and cut it to length and then just run some tape round top and bottom so to install the fork uh if you've got a strap like this make sure that goes on first and then carefully slide the fork out into the trip triple clamps and make sure it's lined up at the correct mark and it's it's also facing forwards in the right direction then you can go ahead and tighten the lower pinch bolts and these need to be torqued [Music] it actually has the torque marked on the triple clamp so the lower is 15. and you want to go to and fro between the bolts until they both talk without moving and then i've got to talk the uh four cap and that needs to be 40 newton meters and using the same trick uh putting the torque wrench at 90 degrees to the wrench um i don't need to adjust the torque and let's talk now so i can go ahead and tighten the top triple clamp to 17 newton meters if you have a standard model with a cast triple clamps the torque is going to be different so look that up in your manual then last step is to check your damper setting is on the correct setting as you backed it right out you'll need to set it back to the setting uh you had it previously or the setting you want so i just need to install the front wheel and that's the work complete i have a separate video which shows how to install the front wheel so i'm not going to show that in this video

Channel: Tokyo Offroad

Views: 23,193

Rating: 4.9296703 out of 5

Keywords: KTM, 250EXC

Id: 5ijjp1HCOw8

Length: 30min 30sec (1830 seconds)

Published: Mon Oct 05 2020