Klipper - Pressure Advance - How To - Chris's Basement - 2022

today we're going to continue on with our Clipper configuration we're going to take a look at pressure advance [Music] hello everyone Chris here and yes pressure Advance is pretty much available in every firmware in Clipper and in reprap and then they call it linear advance in Marlin but it's pretty much achieving the same thing no matter what firmware flavor you use now in Clipper it can help you with oozing on non-print moves and the corner quality of your 3D print that's because as you're transitioning from one movement to the other you can cause a blob with some sort of dwell while you're not moving to change that direction and this will compensate for that now as we've talked about before with Clipper it's just a little bit different to get it set up in this type of firmware so those are the steps that we're going to walk through today now pretty much all you have to do is know the commands and know what to look for because they do give you a test model to print out that helps you spot the conditions that you're looking for but we'll walk through all of that so let's go ahead and take a look at the documentation I'll show you the commands you need to run and we'll take a look at some prints and as always anytime we take a look at a Clipper feature it's always worthwhile taking a look at the documentation they do have a lot of helpful hints in here as well as that test print that you can run to try to tune this in and that's where most of this instruction is going to be tuning in the slicer settings to get that print just right so it gives you some accurate results but they do have a couple of commands in here so you can set your velocity limits as well as examples for a direct drive and a Bowden extruder but we'll touch more on that in a second to start we're just going to go ahead and download their test print this Square Tower you can see it down in here and then we'll head into the slicer I am using prusa slicer but there are some specific settings I recommend to be able to tune this in Fairly easily now they do have some recommendations over on the Clipper reference site but I'll show you all of those pertaining to this particular slicer so with our Tower here first thing set the infill to zero you don't need it for this test in print settings we want to use a course layer so that we can see the layer lines and you want that layer to be 75 percent of the nozzle diameter you're using I am using the standard 0.4 so my layer height is going to be a 0.3 you can do as many or as few vertical shells as you'd like I went with three two would probably work just fine as well and you don't need to be concerned about a lot of tops and bottom layers I just went with three and three just so I could have a finished model you can see my model after it prints out it's pretty rough but it does the job now I did uncheck extra perimeters if needed I didn't want the slicer to determine if I needed more because I wanted it to be a thin wall print I didn't want that to skew any results also I lined up the same position in the rear having the seam to look at does is kind of helpful when you're doing something like this because you can see how it's changing that scene we'll look at that here in a little bit and as far as speed goes we do need to run at a pretty fast pace to be able to see the advantages of this pressure advance so I just set all the settings to 100 millimeters a second travel I use a stock 130 that doesn't matter too much I did slow down the first layer just to make sure that it was going to stick and one of the important things to do while you're tuning this in is make sure you don't have any automatic acceleration control like these settings right here by default I don't use them but some profiles might so make sure anything that might be controlling acceleration has been turned off that will skew your results and if you have any type of Auto speed setting either turn that off or make sure it's set high enough where we're not going to impact any of these speeds up here and in prusa slicer you're going to be concerned with filament settings as well so we'll head to that tab and you're concerned mainly with the cooling you want to make sure you disable auto Cooling Auto cooling that slows the print speed Down based on how long that takes to print that layer so it gives extra time for the part cooling fan to cool down that filament to give you better print quality but that's going to skew your results after you've already turned the speed up this could slow it down so make sure it's off I just went with fan always on in print settings I went ahead and turned off enable variable layer height feature you don't need that for this test machine limits I just want to make sure that it's not imposing any limits on my printer I just set them to ignore and then as far as extruder goes and retraction just leave it where you'd usually set it for this printer this is a Bowden setup I have mine set to a five millimeter length and 60 millimeters of retraction speed with all those settings complete you should be able to go ahead and slice and you'll see your print we have three outer layers this should be more than enough to show the effects of pressure advance so we can go ahead and slice that and send it over to the printer so now that we have our print set up we can go ahead and copy some of these commands to get ready for our test so we'll copy this one right here we're going to set the velocity limits it does have a setting for square Corner velocity we'll just set that to one and Excel we'll set it to 500. so over to Mainsail we'll just go to the console and we'll punch in what we copied so those are good back to the reference again you have options examples here for direct drive and Bowden what this is going to do is start with a setting of zero so no advance and then it's going to ramp it up by a certain Factor you're going to have a lot less pressure advance on a direct drive than you would on a Bowden because of how it has to interact with that filament there's going to be a lot more delay in pulling the filament back when it's trying to adjust in a Bowden system so this one here for direct drive it's going to ratchet that up through this print .005 millimeters and then in the Bowden the one that we're going to use I'll just go ahead and copy it it's going to start at zero as well but it's going to ramp It Up by .02 and that's a movement per layer you'll see that more in the console so now that we've copied our tuning Tower command set we'll go back to console paste it in and we'll run it so now it is starting the tuning now we can just kick off the print and it will know to go ahead and change that every layer and then from here you can just go to your G-Code files and start the print job now if you head over to the console after you start your tuning command and you start your print you will notice that it starts to increment as it changes layers on the Z height but we entered that factor of a zero two smooth time .04 you might expect it to climb 0.02 each layer but it doesn't do that it's actually based on your layer height so it has some math that it works out how much it increments it up the print and then you can measure that print to figure out what your Factor should be case in point again we're running at that point zero two if we do some quick math we have a 0.3 layer height so we have our Factor 0.02 times our layer height 0.3 that gives you the 0.006 that's the increment that it's going to use as it goes through the print and you can see it right here it starts at the first layer it tries to get a level set with this zero zero five six that's what this one down here is doing and then it goes to 6 and 12 and 18 and so on just keep in mind as it's changing it it's not changing it at that 0.02 amount it has some math that it works out to make this happen and also because it starts at the very first layer you can measure the whole print to figure out what your setting should be and here's our test print you can see it on the edges where it started out down here where it didn't have much Advance at all moved all the way up and had way too much you want the butter zone right in the center so that's the value we're going to pick but while we're looking at it you can see the difference on the seam as well I think the seam is a pretty good indication of where you need it to be set this is how I usually set it with reprap we're kind of going on the recommendation from the Clipper documentation for this one but just be aware of that you can do this also you can use the line method like we do with linear Advance if you like to and if we get it really up close you can see just where the print starts to smooth out now I don't want my Corners too rounded but I don't want them pinched too much either so somewhere in here and since that tuning starts at the very first layer you can just measure the whole thing so we'll just take our caliper make sure it's zeroed out of course and we'll run up to where we think the print starts to smooth out and just for the sake of the math I'm going to say mine is pretty good at 25 millimeter now if you have to make a judgment call here round down if you have to that's going to be better than having too much so to figure out what our pressure Advanced setting should be you want to take your measured height we had 25 millimeters times your factor which we did 0.02 and that would be 0.5 so that's the value I would enter in my config so just head over to machine printer.cfg and down under the extruder setting you just enter your pressure underscore advance colon and then your value 0.5 and that's all there is to it you just hit save and restart and that's pretty much all there is to it it's not really hard to get pressure Advanced set up you just have to know what commands to enter and what to enter in your config file now it's important to mention that this really doesn't have anything to do with movement it's flow rate it's trying to determine the flow you will need based on the movement that you're making or the part that you're Printing and this is also going to be different for a lot of different filaments you might have to tune each one in but I found one setting for most plas will get the job done so let's take a look at the print before pressure advance and after pressure Advance here's that same part with our slicer settings that we did for the test remember we were at 100 millimeters a second for a lot of the different values this is with no pressure Advance on if we take a tight look at one of the corners you can see just how rounded it is without pressure Advance on and this is going to improve your print quality overall again depending on what part you're printing because it's able to control the flow rate much better and then we'll take a look at with our pressure Advanced setting of 0.5 you can see that corner is quite a bit smoother we'll do a side by side comparison this one might need to be dialed up just a bit but it has made some improvements let's see if I can get you a good side by side shot to see it just a little bit more drastically I think the seams tells a lot that's why I like to line it up in the rear this is without pressure Advance this is width you can see how much more consistent that is on the corners as well from above this is with this is without you can see just how much more this one is pulled out because it's not adjusting the flow rate as it's going from X to y or vice versa and again there's the same corner without width so effectively this will help our print quality so there we go pressure advance and Clipper firmware and I see this as one of those features that's a really quick win it's not really hard to get set up you just have to know what commands to enter and it helps to know what those commands actually do then you can do a quick test print and decide for yourself how much pressure Advance you might need on your 3D printer remember direct drive is going to be a lot less than a Bowden setup and there's a handful of things you can do to reduce that amount if you think you need to but most of the time in Clipper it's pretty tolerant of most 3D printer setups so hopefully you found this helpful that is it for today and I'll see you really soon on the next one

Channel: Chris Riley

Views: 41,801

Keywords: 3D, printer, Printing, 3D Printing, 3D Printer, ChrisBasement, ChrissBasement, Chris'sBasement, Chris Basement, Chriss Basement, Chris's Basement, ChrisRiley, Chris Riley, benchy, 3dbenchy, 3d, Klipper, Pressure Advance, Slicing, How to, Ender 3 V2

Id: FdnTTAxHKmg

Length: 13min 30sec (810 seconds)

Published: Wed Sep 28 2022