KiCad Crash Course: Design a PCB and send it out for USA manufacturing with only $6

hello everyone we're gonna dive in the ad maokai cod is a program that you can use to design schematics and circuit boards and it's actually not as hard as you'd think it would be and on top of that it's free so definitely worth the try right and then on top of that you can get circuit boards made for very cheap you know a couple dollars even here in the United States in China you can get even larger ones made for a few dollars so what I'd recommend is downloading kite CAD now I mean there's Eagle this demo is not going to be about ego because I don't know how to use it but he's add it's free you just go to Chi CAD - PCB org and you can download it for you know Linux back windows whatever there's a ton of libraries out there all kinds of components that you can download will kind of keep with the some of the built in libraries here so I'm going to go to file new on my Mac a little different on the PC but we'll create a new project here and we'll go ahead and we'll call this oh I don't know 1284 P breakout so now we have a view of our project here in the top corner here we have the schematic layout editor and we'll start there and here we go and so we have a blank project obviously we'll click this this symbol here which is place symbol and we'll click click down here it's loading my symbol libraries in and we're going to type in 1284 P this processor is very similar to the 328 PE but it's got a ton more RAM it's got 16 kilobytes of RAM and you know 128 K of flash in the 4k EEPROM which blows you know the Arduino Uno out of the water here and honestly it's compatible and there's plenty of Arduino course for it so I'm gonna hit okay here on the T QFP version you can you can kind of see here and so I'll place this wherever and now I'm gonna use the the zoom on my touchpad here to kind of zoom in and and table take a look at this component now unfortunately this this component library really doesn't have things marked forward we know it just has the actual port numbers on the the 1280 for P since I do a lot of Arduino I'm gonna try to match these up with actual Arduino pins which don't actually match up with the numbers okay so now I actually have no Electronics experience whatsoever I've actually rely on a few people I work with to kind of figure that out however there are so many things McCann actually read the data sheets of each part and kind of go with what they suggest and you follow a couple rules and you know what 99.9 percent of the time my circuits work fine they work great I would say that I have a little bit of trouble with power supply sometimes so I try to talk the experts on that you know and they can get really complicated but you know for for something simple like this I mean anybody can put this together so if you take a look at the Arduino Uno schematic or any Arduino reference design or even you read the AVR datasheet it's like 500 pages but they say that you know you need some decoupling capacitors in the power supply so I clicked I clicked this little simple thing again and I'm gonna type in C small and this will be just a small capacitor and it's a small capacitor symbol has nothing to do with the actual size of it it could be like a mile big but we're doing the logical design here so I'll hit OK and I'm gonna press the R button here to rotate this capacitor and I'm gonna add what they call decoupling or a bypass capacitor to the power supply here now we don't need to get into details us to you know why we would need this and essentially it ends up as it works like a little battery or a little gas tank so if if the processor needs a surge of power very quickly the capacitor can kind of source that and it also helps filter noise too so if there's any noise in the power supply maybe some other heavy loads causing a dip in voltage this this capacitor can kind of even things out so I clicked down and I placed it and it says see small and see question mark I'm gonna hit e on here over see small because I want to indicate that we're going to use a hundred nano farad capacitor which is very standard and decoupling in logic circuits now I'm going to click this little ground thing over here now this this place is a power line and what I'm gonna do is I'm going to connect this capacitor between power and ground these are and rotate this a little bit here and then that will kind of buffer in case or some you know fluctuations of the power supply you know I've seen people run without these things but you know better safe than sorry you know it's it's about a penny okay I'm gonna hit play simple again and now I want to supply power to this thing so I'm gonna click it actually doesn't matter if you click symbol or power but for the sake of consistency will will click power I'll hit place here and I'm gonna type in VCC now it could be anything you could do you know 3 V there's a million things there's 3 volts there's there's 5 volts it really doesn't matter in fact I think you could call it bananas and all it is is a net it it'll connect anything that says +5 V to other things that are +5 V you could plug in ground there if you wanted to be really convoluted to confuse everybody but these are basically they call them nets or in this case they're called power flags but anything that is 5 volt or there's even one for battery or whatever these are they just all get connected together so so we don't confuse the user let's just make this five volts and we'll place this here now the next tool I want to show you is the wire tool and this lets us connect things together so I'm going to click this green wire don't click the blue one you'll confuse yourself here and I'm gonna click on a little power Fleck here I'm gonna move my mouse down and connect this to VCC now in this particular chip there's an analog positive voltage rail as well as a you know just a regular one and typically you just connect these together so I'm going to connect another wire here I'm gonna click once here and then I'm gonna bring a wire over here and I'm gonna click again you'll see a circle that's a that is a junction and that means that the the two wires effectively connected together if a wire crosses over and doesn't have a little dot then you know it means it's not connected so connect up this capacitor here and there we go the power supply at least on the positive side is connected up now there is a ground at the bottom of this part and conveniently there's this thing out in the way here so I want to right you can right click here and you can get all kinds of stuff and then you'll learn that om moves it okay but we can just move this out of the way here now these wires are logical meaning they don't really mean anything at all other than two things are connected and when this program is done you know it takes your drawing and it says ah pin six connected round it doesn't matter that you know I do this you know this doesn't make a mile-long wire but all it all it knows is that I logically connected this to ground and we could actually make this super close to the processor this is just a logical representation so could actually read this and I know what's going on alright so on this on this processor we have a port for crystal and reset so I'm gonna place a crystal now you'll find a bunch of crystals on this thing and I don't want to make it too hard on you guys so I'm gonna choose a small one and it just means the symbols small you can fit more stuff basically if you make stuff small I always pick the small ones and use the are to rotate here now notice how this kind of like bunches up against the part here we will use the M key here to move this around so it's easier to read and then we will connect up this crystal here using the wire now crystals also need loading capacitors so we're gonna add that we won't get into why we need these but pretty much any crystal you use it's gonna probably need these alright so that I'm gonna type and see small again and we're gonna make a little capacitor and these loading capacitors now here's another trick to there's a lot of shortcuts in this thing and I want to move too fast if you if you just click and I hit enter again the last part that I selected will will pop up so click that and now I see it connected okay we'll add a hit e here to edit you could also do this too and say edit value' and I'm gonna say this is about 22 picofarad which is pretty common for loaded capacitors and then this will be a 16 megahertz ah here now you don't need to do this you can leave it just however but I found that when you start placing parts on the board you're like okay what was that again and it just it's a lot easier if you you label things ahead of time another thing is that if you label it ahead of time when you start associating components too parts you'll actually not do stupid mistakes like you know have a oto one part just like a super small part and say a hundred ferrets and obviously it would not come in that size one hundred fair odds would be a pretty big capacitor so and sometimes you'll mean it's a little bit more nuanced like you know maybe you might not find anything above say oh I don't know 20 micro farad's and a four to package you know so so it's really important to avoid extra PCBs revisions by making sure that you name your parts you know with the values that they are and and associate the right size to them go onto digi-key go in a mauser make sure that they actually have a capacitor in the size you think it is okay so I just placed a resistor here this resistor here is a pull-up resistor for reset now this chip has a variety options but essentially with the Arduino you know core and whatnot this essentially this this pull-up indicates that the processor should operate as normal if you ground the reset line it'll I should reset the processor so I'm gonna set this a 10k pretty common pull-up value you'll notice that you see a lot of 10k and 100 nano farad we need to design these circuits it's just kind of you know standard practice okay so let's do 5 volts here this is a pull-up resistor so the reason why we want to pull up is we want to set a default state if you don't set a default state in digital logic it'll float around it it's very whim of whatever voltage it happens to pick up from nearby traces to human bodies to whatever and you'll be wondering why is this light turning on and off you know why is this this button saying it's pressed when it's not well it's probably floating seen you probably didn't put a pull-up or pulldown pull-downs another option to make it default always to you know zero or ground now let's see here so I'm going to use this X here this thing will complain using the air checking if we don't mark things we don't want connected so I'm gonna make these disconnected here and then I really don't know what I'm doing because I forgot what what pin is 1 so we have Google as a friend here so I'm gonna type in 3 or 4 key and I've been using the mighty core let's take a look here and so they have a github here this you can actually install into the Arduino IDE and burn bootloaders accordingly bobbed we know is the Arduino Uno kind of default pin layout and if you know anything about Arduino the pins don't actually mean the real pins you know 1 2 3 4 5 go to something completely non-obvious and you know it's really confusing so I have this really good diagram here and we'll what I'm trying to do is figure out what the serial port line is type 2 and what our SPI lines are taught are tied to because for our little project here we want to be able to program it with a an FTDI serial adapter you know the Arduino environment and then we also need to have the SPI port broken out so we can program it to give it its initial arduino bootloader so as you can see here pd 0 is our XD alright so it's fine if you zero here now now what I'm going to do is I'm going to I'm doing use another symbol here this is called this color label and a label lets us sort of connect two things together without having to make a long wire and labels are important especially on processors when it's all this stuff going in and out and it gets really confusing fast you have wires everywhere because remember the whole point of this is not to show how the wires are laid out you know lengthwise it's more like you know what's connected to what so that when the human reads the schematic you know they they know what's connected to what they don't care that everything's connected by a wire so I'm going to call this label RX d and then TX D is pd-1 so we'll connect up feed you on here all right so we got TX d and RX d hooked up here to serial port lines now when we program the Arduino over serial we also use the DTR line on the FTF TDI to issue reset so we're gonna make sure we tie and reset here and like I was saying it make no sense to run a wire all the way over you know to this thing here so let's let's make a label again it'll be a lot easier click the label here and we'll call this for set now I know that this release is pretty stable but it doesn't hurt to hit this every now and then that's a Save button it's like you know writing your word document and you're like 90 pages in and something terrible happens in it crashes I've had my cat crash occasionally there's a there's actually a shortcut here to here it's command S but it's different on Windows but you know just get in the habit of hitting that every now and then when you're creating your project just use the hotkeys you know that way you don't lose anything would be a shame if you made something really amazing and then BAM it's gone and yeah it's happened to me before I've routed probably the most complex board ever and crashed it was like oh I didn't save in the last half-hour great all right so so we have a reset line our serial line hooked up here the next thing I want to do is probably set up the SPI and so this is how we program it using an Arduino programmer let's see here PB for is chip select now we don't need that but we do need mossy which is on PB 5 so let's go ahead and well switch over here once find P V 5 and I'm gonna create a flag called mossy master outs slave in on tv5 alright miso miso soup but also a master and slave out on TV 6 these are just little tricks that I I used to kind of remember things here okay PB 7 is our clock now what does all this master and slave out this and that this protocol is called SPI it's it's a serial interface with a dedicated transmit and receive line and it uses a clock to synchronize things in the way that you know engineers portray how this works is you have a master and you have a slave and so you'd plug in you know your master out slave in into your slave and master out you know it's basically it's it's how you connect up these serial ports now this is also used in the in circuit serial program or which which is why we're doing this here and so we have a reset in our SPI ports and our serial and our so we're we're probably ready to place a couple interfaces here so over here I'm going to place a header now headers are pretty easy to find in here if you know with the type essentially it's categorized by number of rows by columns so let's see so this is a note to bio 3-2 row or 2 rows 3 columns and so I'll do odd even layout here one two three four five six yep okay I'm gonna place this part here okay so now maybe I don't remember how this goes so let's just use Google you'll be using Google a lot this is a good resource I already know I already know this but but for this type of stuff you just type them to come out ah yeah there we go yeah it's a clip from one of the schematics even okay so goes essentially pin 1 3 & 5 nice o clock and reset okay so let's go to our labels me so clock reset I'm hitting enter here you can get okay but I hit entry okay I'm gonna move this over a little bit here and so the next one is let's say ground GMD short for ground I'll put this out here so there's no room for everything okay mossy mossy is all by itself over here okay and then it says 3.3 volts reason 5 volts essentially it's the power so when you connect up the programmer it powers at the processor and you can program it I'm gonna hit the shortcut for save here ok now you can use this text tool this is really important you can make schematics but the whole point is is to be able to read them later so I like to put lots of notes here so I'm gonna put some text I'm gonna say in circuit serial programmer cutter and I'm gonna set this step 3 I usually use 3 millimeters for my my labels here and then I like to put stuff in little boxes so I'm going to click this little box tool now I can draw lines now this does absolutely nothing to the circuit but makes things organized a little bit so so as I create different sort of actions of the circuit you know things are organized and labeled accordingly and kind of you see where the limits are if you know what the what the thing is next thing I'm going to do is add an FTDI programmer for now let's let's go ahead and we'll type in FTDI tap and I have this one memorized but it it's kind of a goofy one here so let's take a look at some of the more popular programmers here let's take a look make sure that indeed okay this is uh this is correct so this would be pin 1 is ground and then cts which is unused okay so and then is 6 pins ok great so 0 1 4 1 column let's see and then I like to use they have all these fancy ones now I just use a generic here all right I'm gonna place this here yeah that's fine so pin 1 was ground pin 2 is actually unused cts is not used in the Arduino programmer so we'll just we'll make that we'll use the X here and say it's not connected all right now this is where it gets to be important to match this up properly this thing says oh yeah power is also important here and let's let's do the power real quick we're doing 5 volts so matching up these serial lines is super important if you get these backwards it just won't work sometimes things are so convoluted in these data sheets that you have no idea and one trick is actually to put in a little you know zero ohm resistor and then jump it if you need to I've seen it happen before I've seen professionals to screw up the serial port you know putting Rx and Rx and TX DT X because it's arbitrary is what perspective is it you know who knows so one thing I do like sparklines FTDI here so they actually have it labeled really nicely they have in and out so it's pretty obvious that this is our X in all right so so we know that that's TX out so that's gonna go into our XD so that's going to go into the processors receive now note that uh default of the three yeah because I had my text at three we're gonna set that back to 1.2 otherwise I'm gonna get out to watch well if I should get like this massive thing here which you can add it later but it's in the wine all right okay and I'm gonna put our t XD 1.2 now if you if you set the label we'll do this again if you set the label and you set the text size at this moment it'll default to this all right there we go now you'll see a why are you doing that well in the circuit that the reset circuit the arduino uses it uses a capacitor between their set line and the DTR line and some really nasty trick that you know gets it to reset and I still I gotta put it on the oscilloscope I have no idea what it does but the trick works alright so Oh hundred an affair adds what a surprise okay alright wanna say that size three I'm going to call this the FTDI program well I don't have room for that so I'll show you a trick that you probably need to learn at some point when it click the arrow and I'm gonna highlight this whole thing you notice it goes a little dim here I'm gonna drag this down this guy back up the same way and that's how you kind of move stuff around okay I'm gonna draw a little box around this guy yeah and let's take a look at her circuits so we have the programming header so we can do the initial bootloader programming we've got the up to date you have TDI ports you can easily program it a would we know we've got a crystal it'll pull up in the reset so okay you got our decoupling capacitor now this is all good and all but it really wouldn't do a whole lot so what I'm gonna do is a couple things I don't want to make this video too long so we're just we're gonna do very simple Arduino circuit but I'm gonna move this clock out because this is actually the default you know LED pin on Arduino so when I type in LED and I rotate this around I'm gonna put a resistor so don't cook the thing you'll notice that this is a net in European format they do have us resistors I just got so used to European that's what I use it really doesn't matter edit this and make it a 330 ohm I'm gonna connect these up and then this guy is going to ground okay now we've got all these other ports here and I don't want to waste your time on all the random crap I could hook up so you know what as much as I would suggest just to you know hook up headers this thing let's shorten this video up and let's just gonna mark these all as it's not connected because maybe I just want an Arduino that flashes a light you know that happens have like 16 K VRAM which makes no sense but whatever this is going to make the port a lot easier to route when there's not a lot of crap going on alright I'm going to do a quick save now I think that's the single get powered either by the programmer or the in circuit programmer header and will be able to upload you know Arduino code to this thing it's gonna run at 16 megahertz pretty straight for straightforward blue loader and will verify that it's working by flashing an LED that's all it'll do and spit stuff over serial okay that sounds great now to click on these cut this convoluted workflow which is important here alright so I'm gonna click on annotate it's just gonna add r1 r2 you know to all our parts I don't want to do it it makes it faster now we're going to click the bug thing and I'm gonna hit run now we got a bunch of these errors them pins not driven it's just because we didn't set up things so can even detect whether that's a problem or not I'm gonna close this out I could have like you know not connected one of these to kind of give me a demo but I wasn't planning ahead on this one here but you can see oh not connected now this thing can save your but I I can't tell you how many times I'd be like yeah you know what everything's fine and then it turns out that even though you know you know it might look fine there might be a wire and actually the grids on on this one but it might be just a tad off and then it's like oh nothing's connected and then it'll just go on its happy way and you'll wonder why your circuit doesn't work alright so I'm gonna click this thing here I'm loading footprints alright now this is how you assign your footprints which are the component sizes to these schematic symbols it's an extremely crucial step because if you get these sizes wrong you just got to make another one because your components are gonna fit alright so see one now because I'm really lazy when I solder and like spending a lot of time and my hot tweezers are out of service I just picked this huge total six component size and heck we can just do hand soldered we'll make it super easy on us so I'm gonna I'm gonna double-click on this and now I can double click on this again and again and again oh and I made all these capacitors essentially 1206 is with hand soldering pads that means you can touch the soldering iron to the pad and heat up and reflow the solder you know without a whole lot of trouble here all right now one thing to keep in mind here is I don't know why this is selected maybe it's from a prior you know you when I used it prior but but you'll see these filters here now if I turn all these off you'll see every component possible it gets exhausted now this number sign matches up well only show me what show me things with the same number of pins so capacitor or an LED has two pins and then you can say description here so this will say well you know filter it based on the symbol keywords so in this case now I see it but now I see LEDs now let's just say that I want like I got an LED but I want to use the resistor footprint you could turn these off and get the library feature and you can actually go in and I want this to be an HDMI forward and it'll let you do it probably not a good idea but there's some cases where that's useful alright so many use a total of six LED because I'm lazy and then now this is that 2x3 header so this gets really tricky here but header pins are spaced out 2.5 four millimeters typically and they're going to be vertical and not surface mount that okay and then we're going to do the same here for pin header 2.5 for vertical 1 by 6 for ftdi all right I got resistors here so many years at 1206 hand solder here another hand solder now crystals just to make this easy and everybody will just use a @ HC 49 you you've probably seen these a million times or does the stereotypical you know kind of oval twin can't they're tin can crystal all right so go up here and say save schematic and close now these components are associated now here's a critical step if you change anything you change around some wires after the fact when you're doing a PCB or you really a components or whatever you always have to go here you click this net thing you click generate netlist and save you don't do that you wondering why your updates didn't propagate worse yet you didn't even know they updated then you wired it wrong alright one last thing before we leave this screen and go to PCB routing I know we're at 34 minutes here but maybe a PCB in 45 minutes it's kind of what my goal is here so we'll click on edit symbols here and here you can kind of get you your bomb list of you know what you need to buy alright so now we're gonna go into a separate program called pcbnew i have no idea if there was a PCB prior or piece of the old but it's called PCB new so i'm gonna click that now these programs are actually interconnected I don't have dual monitors here that's but if you were to say zoom in a little bit here as soon as I get these components on the board here you'll see what I mean I'm gonna click net no you'll see this is our editing screen there's nothing I'm gonna click on that now in this version I have to actually go find the net usually it did it by default okay now make sure everything's green everything looks good update pcp now we'll close now I got these guys here I'm just gonna place these here now check this out like what's this guy oh yeah you see so you can click on these and they'll actually move the schematic program around and that's useful because sometimes it's like well I've got all these 100 nano farad capacitors I have no idea oh that's not even the one for the processor it's for the programmer so see what I mean all right so this is actually pretty straightforward once you know what to do and that's that's a pretty stupid statement but what I like to do is if I don't really care if if size isn't critical and I don't have like a physical size I need to make I will first you know layout things however route it and then I'll I'll make the board you know sized accordingly here so so what I'm doing here is I'm clicking this and doing this around now you'll see this this is called the rat's nest these little things or air wires and they tell you hey these things need to be connected here and there now we're gonna be doing manual routing I I'm aware that Chi CAD does have some automatic routing capabilities I never use it first of all I don't trust it and second of all I've never really gotten it to work properly so and and sometimes the auto router would make a decision that that's really stupid which doesn't make a lot of sense you know like it might get this crystal a mile over here and route these traces and they're you know high frequency traces you know and then you wonder why your processor doesn't work alright so this is my crystal here and my crystals like most important on placement I can probably put these other components anywhere but I want to keep my crystal nearby I'm gonna hit R to rotate and and you'll see that the air wires cross that means that probably have it on backwards serious so I'm gonna hit R twice again okay so the arrow air wires don't overlap anymore I think we're good now I'm gonna turn a few things off because I find them annoying the fab notes I'm going to turn off maybe I should tell you about some of these things here be important now courtyard you'll see it actually first of all you'll see things to start with B and F F is front B is back so that's how you do your two layer boards you can do multi-layer boards in this thing I don't want to confuse you guys but essentially that's what the what the designator is the second thing is there's a you know what what layer it is so we have two copper layers here we have front back we have adhesive layers we have paste layers he says I don't know when those are used paste layers is when they lay down the solder paste again not important because we're gonna be can solder in this PCB silkscreen or silk s that is essentially what's printed so if you ever looked at a green circuit board and saw white lines everywhere with letters and whatnot that's the silkscreen you'd be whatever you want it to be the mask this is what's exposed now we won't have to worry about this when we're at our board but basically this is what is exposed copper when our PCB is done otherwise solder mask is applied and that is a solder resist material that keeps solder purchase from occurring a lot of these other things are used for really exotic purposes I use them occasionally to tell cm you know where where to put stiffener and and flex PCBs and all kinds of wacky stuff but let's go down to edge cuts edge cuts is literally the what where to cut to make the PCP and so that'll be an enclosed square or circle or whatever that tells their machinery how to cut the board don't know what margins all about from that courtyard the courtyard essentially is like well this is kind of like the the boundary of the component so it kind of keeps you from from doing stupid things like overlapping components there might be some I don't see a whole lot of components that have this issue but there might be a component that has some overhang and some pass underneath and it keeps you from overlapping components so they don't actually fit on the board but I think it's good practice to keep a little bit of spacing unless you really know what you're doing okay so let's go ahead and let's get a crystal set up here now I remember from memory that we have two capacitors that are used for loading the crystal and I don't remember what they are so I'm going to use the T and I'm gonna press let's just go through all our capacitors here let's type in C 1 and hit OK and it's gonna pick up C 1 here oh this is the reset capacitor if you remember that one and I put this I'm gonna put this right here okay let's try C 2 okay so this appears to be one of the loading capacitors here so I'm going to put this right next to our crystal C 3 so let's just say we didn't know what C 3 was oh let's go back over here and so it highlighted it for us so we set the loading capacitors here all right and then let's see D 1 let's try to get it okay so it's running off actually the the serial clock here so let's you probably just put this over here I'm gonna rotate this around okay and then let's say you have a c4 if we do and I believe this one is one of the coupling classic capacitors to the processor and probably doesn't matter a whole lot where we place it just place it here actually does matter a lot but there's a ton of power on here so all right and this is the reset resistor for the pull-up for reset actually just put this right here and then last resistor I believe is the one for the for the LED so we will just write this no no over by the led all right so a little bit of a mess here I'm gonna organize this a little bit make sure that my courtyards don't overact overlap and make sure things look you know nice and neat I mean it is a little bit of an art to make a PCP actually layout or look good laid out and whatnot I'm gonna drag these slip screens because you're really hard to read if it's underneath the component or another on top of one another and this is important when we do the assembly so know what component goes where okay and I think that's about it it's not a very big board okay so let's go ahead and let's do our wires here so when you click you you see that any other connected pad is where yrz to go so we're gonna so let's go ahead and go through all these here oops I'm actually gonna do the let's do this before we get into trouble here and make sure that our clock lines are are good and nice and short and I'll hook up the loading capacitors and all I'm doing is I'm using this wire tool and just I'm just clicking anywhere I click as where as it or a piece of the trace is going to be now occasionally you have to cross over things and so that's where a thing called the via is important so let's see here let's what we'll use reset or actually let's see let's use the serial lines for example so I'm gonna hit the V button here and this is gonna make it via and it's going to turn green it's actually gonna go under to the bottom with the bottom of the PCB and then we can drag this over and click I'm do the same for the TX 2 okay and then five volts as well get that one now I need a view to go back to this red layer here and we're good I'm gonna hit save just in case all right now anywhere you see ground I mean people have all kinds of techniques but what I like to do is I usually reserve one of the layers for mostly ground and I only go back to the back of the piece of you and I actually absolutely have to so I'm just going to put the ears and I'm not I'm gonna hit escape and not tie them to anything so when I put in the ground plane in the bottom it'll connect them all together oh yeah that's around here okay hit escape that alright so let's get this reset line tied in here okay Oh sometimes it gets kind of tangled up here all right okay all right where we got here shape there's like a reset line that needs to go here well for the sake of this video I'm trying to make this super simple here so we can we can blow through this usually I organized things a little better here but it's good for demonstration here okay so we got me so you got the serial clock and I'm just pressing V here and just running these through we got mossy and see if you plan ahead we won't need to have to cross over so many times but in this case it doesn't really matter okay and then let's see if this is a multi-layer board usually do a power plane or whatever but this is a two layer board so and the power demands probably of lighting in an LED and running this processor on too high so oh it's okay I'm gonna hit undo here cuz I I got myself a little bit of trouble I'm actually gonna go underneath here there we go all right so all we have to do is hook up all the 5 volt lines and you should be good let's see we'll go underneath here and I've got that 5 volts will connect this led up to its resistor and I think that oh you've got a power line needs to be hooked up and as we tear through these things we're gonna see less and less air wires well we'll see the air wires enough for the ground until we do our next step here all right so I believe that is everything that is not ground and even if I miss something that's fine alright so I'm gonna click edge cuts and I'm going to click this tool don't hit this cuz it'll freak out click this line drawing tool and now I'm gonna hold down the command button on Mac it might be control for Windows and this lets me set you know a 45-degree aligned line so it's not like we have these weird crooked PCBs and I'm gonna click I'm gonna click again click again and hopefully this lines up it didn't that's alright zoom in and if you actually click this you can you can drag it over that circle actually indicates that it's it's plumb with the rest okay so that's our PCB except the ground so grounds easy we can tell it fell and everything that's not a wire and make it ground so I'm gonna click the the front copper layer I'm gonna click here let me click round I don't leave these the same sometimes I tighten up the clearance a little bit so it depends on you know where you're getting the piece of be made and we're gonna drag this and it doesn't matter if it's all angled or what but you can straight this over the edge cut here and you double click and now it's filled in everything it's really cool so now I'm gonna click this again I'm going to click duplicate all right I'm gonna hit escape I'm gonna click this thing and I'm with hit e to edit I'm gonna change him to the back so now we have ground plane on both sides so back in front and now that we have something on the back you can actually focus on you to the back of the front now there's a there is an air wire here there's some ground that's not connected that happens especially the router gets a little tight here so what I like to do as well is I like to add a few vias here to make sure that you know everything gets connected together here so in this case even though I'm not going to be placing a wire I'm gonna use the wire tool I'm gonna click and I'm gonna hit the V button here I'm gonna place of dia I'm gonna click me here I'm gonna or when I hit B it fills in the ground plane so it looks like I don't have any air wires I don't think sometimes they can be hidden away and normally you'd add a lot of ground views around the PCB otherwise ends up like a giant capacitor for this board doesn't matter I mean I've taken some shortcuts to quickly prototype prototype things and you need to do all kinds of crazy stuff okay so we're almost done click the bug check thing run DRC yay no unconnected item just gotta click over there sometimes it's you know it's convoluted and there's no problems all right I want to save this now although we could use Gerber's and you know generated could generate a you know Gerber's and send it out to China I'm gonna show you an easier way so I'm gonna go to ash Park and this company is based in Oregon in the United States and then you can see I'm logged in here and I'm gonna say browse your files and I'm gonna say let's see I'm gonna say breakout but you might have to find it if you know you don't have it in your shortcuts there and what you're gonna want to do is you're going to want to upload to ash Park the kaika PCB file now normally send Gerber's to a cm or contract manufacturer or PCB manufacturer but in this case they have a way of accepting it processing it and creating it in two files that they can understand so we're going to have them process this for us and to get a preview of this PCB it should take only a few seconds so here's our PCB cost us $6 what's free shipping and that comes out of come over by Portland Oregon and you know generally takes them a week or two to turn these out depending on your speed that you select at the end so let's go ahead and continue and we're gonna want to look this over just make sure that you know everything looks nice the way we thought it would be make sure that the board outline is intact make sure that the silkscreen nothing's overlapping so we don't get confused later and then I'm gonna click order now you can order three of these for six oh five or six dollars and five cents with free shipping you can tell them to do it faster and they charge a double usually it's about it I get it in about a week or so they also have a flex service which is a very super thin PCB and then a really fun one after dark it's it's a black PCB it's really beautiful and there's clear solder mask so you actually see where all your circuits are going and that's actually the same cost it's a little bit slower but but if you really are starting out with circuits you want to troubleshoot and see where everything's running I'd recommend the after dark so we can just go ahead and we'll go through this process here and I'll show you that how cheap it is for shipping all right so free shipping and yeah it's a pretty good price anyway that's how you make a PCB in about 53 minutes hope you found this interesting if you have any questions let me know if you found this helpful you know leave me a comment or subscribe I'd like to do more of these videos I think it's helpful I I was super intimidated by PCB manufacturing until I just sat down with Kai CAD with a friend of mine and I've been making circuits for several years now with confidence and you know what if you screw up at six bucks that's pretty much a latte at Starbucks and you're in this case you're actually learning something building something and you may have the next best thing the next product the next hot thing on the maker scene and III find it really exciting anyway thanks for watching

Channel: Inductive Twig

Views: 1,053

Keywords: kicad, eagle, pcb, circuit

Id: wDG5105M094

Length: 54min 35sec (3275 seconds)

Published: Sun Dec 29 2019