Kenji's Cooking Show | Doesn't Matter, Still Pizza

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- its Kenji tomorrow is pizza night which means that today is in donut actually before we make my dough let me show you my this is the book I'm my book that's coming out in September it's called every night is pizza night it's written by me and it's illustrated by a Janna Ruggiero and that's supposed to be my daughter ish maybe and there's a little dog was on every page it's about a girl who loves pizza and then learns to love other foods as well anyhow out in September I think it's great my daughter loves it and she would have pizza every night she could I would have it every night if I could also but but I can't because of obvious reasons any hmm so we're making dough tonight I think the piece we're gonna make tomorrow is gonna be sort of a New York style pizza oh by the way you can pre-order this book if you go to book shop org slash shop slash Kenji Lopez alt you can pre-order this book and if you order from that site a hundred percent of my sales commission from the site will go to creating these box meals that we're serving to hospital workers and community centers around the Bay Area so um it's a good time to buy it a good place to buy it alright end of plug for my own book so we're making a no need dough tomorrow's gonna be sort of a New York style pizza New York ish I'm gonna make the dough and I'm gonna bake it in the outdoor pizza oven hmm so that it'll get nice and hot this dough we're gonna do start with 300 grams this is Adam so this is the Caputo double-o pizzeria flour which is like a relatively high protein flour you can use regular bread flour if you want you can even use all purpose flour it'll work just fine the texture will just come out a little bit different but this this is some pretty nice flour I get it there's buy it online and it gets shipped here in like five pound bags I think five pound that bag will last me a long time it's a 300 grams of flour for those of you who are keeping track of Baker's percentages and we're gonna do three percent salt this time I'm gonna do it right so three percent of three hundred grams is nine grams of salt as opposed to my last pizza video where I did it wrong I know knead bread video where I did wrong all right nine grams of salt I'm gonna zero off the scale again by the way if you don't have a scale your make any bake any amount you're making it like much more difficult first of all teaspoons and cup measures are very imprecise and the scale is more precise but more importantly it saves you from having to dirty everything up because all you have to do is retailer the scale every time you add a new ingredient and then just add the next one straight to the bowl so we're going with about 1% yeast this is a instant yeast you can use regular old GNE energies you want really and you don't actually have to be too precise about the amount of yeast because it kind of kind of self-regulate so kind of you know eats and eats and eats until they can't eat anymore and the the acidity and the alcohol level was kind of slowed it down so it kind of self-regulate so you don't really have to worry too much about the amount of yeast so 1% needs so we're gonna mix it up those are the dry ingredients well you know what this is a this is a New York style pizza so I'm gonna add just a touch a touch o sugar which is not unnecessary but a oh no you know what I was gonna do I was gonna try using some agave nectar this time because I've never tried it in pizza dough before but so I figured I would so I'm gonna do like maybe 2% of this you know just a little touch I'm and then some olive oil for this one so a more traditional Neapolitan style dough would not have any fat out of two it would just be and/or sugar would just be flour salt water and yeast this kind of this is a slightly softer New York style though only about three percent oil as well close alright and next what we do is about 66 66 percent hydration so I'm going to add 200 grams of water there we go and now all we got to do is mix this all together so this is a no need dough which means you don't really have to knead it you basically just want to mix it together until the until there's not really any dry flour left there you go and that's about it get the stuff of clean stuff out the sides clean up the sides with the dough ball I'm just makes it a little bit more because I see some oil spots but all right there we go good enough so now we're just gonna leave that and what's gonna happen is that over the course of the night and I explained this in my no need bread video as well but over the course of the night what happens is there's enzymes in the flour that will break down some of the longer protein strands and make it easier for them to recombine into gluten gluten is the network of proteins that forms when you combine a flour with water and it's what gives bread structure and what makes you know what makes a pizza able to have those sort of large bubbles of stretchy dough so what happens is the enzymes break down the longer protein pieces which are then more easily able to combine into gluten and because they're so broken down so much just the mere action of the yeast working so like the little bubbles and stuff I'm coming up and around and through the dough bubbling up that action itself is what actually ends up kneading the dough so it kind of needs on a microscopic level and you look just give it a plenty of time so you know tomorrow I'm putting this here now right now it's with have 9:15 p.m. tomorrow morning when I wake up and then making breakfast I'll probably come and give it a few turns to help develop the gluten a little bit cover it up again and then finally about two hours before I'm ready to bake it I'll shape it into a ball and then let it sit one last time before stretching it so you'll see all that tomorrow so all right when I snap my fingers it's going to be 1015 a.m. 11 hours later so here is oh yeah now I haven't opened this yet okay so you can see the dough has kind of puffed up and risen out and you can see all these little bubbles and that's what you're looking for so now all you got to do right now or all I'm gonna do is kind of very gently pick it up and kind of fold it over itself and what you're doing here is you're kind of their source all your gonna know is just a really wet dough and that's expected wet and sticky if you hold it if you handle it for more than like you know like a split second at a time it's going to stick to your fingers and that's something that you can't just have to practice doing but what we're doing gonna do is pull it over itself a few times and that's going to sort of stretch the gluten a little bit it's going to reintroduce some ease to some new food pockets and now we're just gonna let it sit until the afternoon all right and I will see you now and I will show you now at what time in about six hours later not quite it doesn't really matter how long you wait I'm just a little bit of time you know as long as it's like an hour or so what you want to do is though two hours before you're begging so I'm gonna bake this one six so two hours or so before you bake it like between an hour and a half to two and a half hours you want to give it a sort of final shaping so a little dust of flour on top a little dust of flour on your board wooden boards good for this you know a countertop will work but it wouldn't work is better cuz it won't stick very much to a wooden board at all so you need less flour more flour on my hands so now what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna basically fold this into itself like that and again you want to work kind of quickly with a wet dough like this okay a little more flour okay and so now we kind of bunch it up on the bottom you can sort of see how I'm like kind of pinching it with my thumb down here and making a little seam and that's it and you can do a little roll around like this now this part you actually wanted to stick to the board just a little bit so that it kind of seals itself off at the bottom you see any big bubbles like that you can pop them and that's about it so now last I'm gonna do let me put it back in this bowl in the smaller Bowl this time is fine that's covered this that's not gonna stay yeah so let it sit covered for its final rise meanwhile I'm going to get the rest of the ingredients together the toppings this is just canned whole peeled tomatoes that I've squished around with my fingers and that's about enough for this sort of largest largest pizza I'm also getting this is a aged mozzarella cheese so the kind that you buy in blocks at the deli full-fat normally I don't get pretty shredded mozzarella because it's almost always low-fat must rip Ramon Sorella which is not right for this kind of pizza it just doesn't melt right it also has cellulose on it that's then to prevent clumping and that affects the way to melt so you want to go for a full fat mozzarella so you can usually get that at the deli department where they slice it this was I think was just like a block of Boar's Head so I'm gonna slice up some pancetta nice and thin so that it cooks in the time that the pizza cooks some of it is pretty hot so it's gonna cook under hopefully under four minutes or so three to four minutes which is about what you're aiming for within New York style pizza you know a pizza slike slice shops the corner shops that use get diecast deck ovens that hit maybe 500 degrees or so oftentimes a pizza will take six or seven minutes to bake sometimes that you know what the sort of nicer places the old-school place is especially the coal-fired places they'll bake much faster so like four to five minutes maybe even three minutes as opposed to in the apollomon pizza which bakes in like 90 seconds and generally like you know it's possible of course to make good pizza using with a with a longer bake I think my own New York style pizza recipe that calls for a regular oven the pizza bakes for like 7 to 12 minutes clean that up clean that up later clean seven to 12 minutes or something like that whereas cooks in seven to twelve minutes and it's just because the dough is designed to be able to work in a home oven like that but a Neapolitan pizza will bake in much less time so 90 seconds and when you bake at a lower - when you make it a higher temperature for a shorter amount of time what you end up with is more of a sort of very thin crust with the leopard spots like higher higher contrast between the dark spots on the light spots and a very very thin crispy shell with the head of a poofy moist interior whereas a longer bake time we'll get you something that's a little more evenly browned and more sort of crunchy and a little drier so you know it there's no right or wrong answer to that it's really just a matter of what you want this is Spanish to do so um the good stuff so this is you know similar to pepperoni but you would put on a pizza you know american-style pepperoni in that it's a you know garlicky and has chilies and it's done importantly in a natural casing which I just peeled off if you go to seriously that I have this article I think one of my favorite articles that I've ever written about why pepperoni why some of it curls and some of it doesn't it's a pretty fascinating answer I thought you know I always assumed that was maybe because the edges shrink more like the natural casing shrinks more and so that causes the it causes it to pop up like that or maybe it's because the top of the pepperoni cooks faster than the bottom so it shrinks more and that causes it to curl up as a baking on a pizza but in fact the reason it does is because the it's there it has to do with the ratio of the the nozzle that they use to fill the casings with the radius of the with the diameter of the actual casing so usually the nozzle is about that big where's the casing stretches out to about this size cone size quarter sized and because of that what happens is as the meat gets pumped in the edges kind of the edges of the meat kind of stick to the casing while the inside gets pushed down more so it ends up with this kind of natural u-shape that you can see if you split here let me take up a chunk and I'll split it lengthwise so you can see on this one how the inside of it is debt is more densely packed than the outside and it has this kind of u-shaped in some sausages more obvious than others but I think you can see it here I don't know can you see it I can see it it gets this u-shaped thing where the inside is more dense than the outside so as it cooks it shrinks unevenly and that's what causes that uh that's what causes pepperoni to cup up like that so if you want cuppy pepperoni get go for stuff with a natural casing um boards head I think is available all around the country and it's great if not you can also my favorite favorite pepperoni comes from a Vermont smoking cure you can order it online from and it comes and comes in sticks and you just slice it yourself at pizzerias they frequently use a brand called ETSU Ezz oh that was also great I don't know if you can buy a retail but you can certainly find it online mmm loves managers oh okay alright so the pizzas gonna rise for another two hours this stuff is going to hang out and wait until we're ready to bake about 45 minutes before we bake I'm going to go out and start preheating the oven so I will join you back in now it's been about two hours and we're gonna get ready to bake alright so here's my dough yeah the ovens been preheating I've been preheating it on high for about an hour or so so I'm gonna turn it back down - this is a unique Kota by the way this is currently my favorite pizza oven down here are some of my other favorites on this is a rock box very great oven it has a 12-inch limit this one's a 16 inch oven limit up here I also have the only three over there somewhere but outdoor pizza ovens are great modern ones are really great um so though you see is nice and a nice and soft we're gonna do a little bit of flour now so like a normal New York style pizza dough would not have any cornmeal maybe you would do some semolina at the bottom but I've actually sort of recently started enjoying the texture that cornmeal adds this is coarse cornmeal I think actually just polenta you could use a finer cornmeal if you want something a little bit finer on the bottom of your crust flour on top okay so I start by pressing a little bit of the excess air push it out a little bit I am by no means I can't expert at this there are people who are much better pizza crusts stretchers than I am hoops like I got a big hole that's okay watch this we're all good no I don't even know what happened you know one of the good things about pizza is that even when it's completely ugly it's still delicious and pizza is one of those things where the first few times you do it in Paris in fact even you know like I've been making pizza for a long long time frequently and it still sometimes comes out ugly like it's probably going to today especially because well it's probably because I'm on camera it always happens so alright so we got our dough stretched out here pretty thin it stretched out nice and easy now it doesn't really matter if it's perfectly circular at this point we are going to basically we're going to top it here and then we're going to transfer it to appeal and then throw it into the oven and when you transfer to the peel it kind of you can then kind of stretch it out and shape it but usually you want to yeah doesn't really matter what it is at the beginning as long as it's sort of basically round it's alright and then we'll put it on the peel will stretch it into the right shape again and then as we transfer it you'll see it'll it'll come out all right sauce our cheese I'm gonna use a metal peel you can use a wooden peel so what appeals are nice because you can usually if you're fast enough what you can do is you can assemble the pieces of directly on the peel and then transfer directly to the oven metal peel is which is what you need if you're going to want to you know like a wooden peel all you can do is transfer you can't really maneuver it in the oven once it's in there so if you do use a wooden peel you're also going to need a metal peel to be able to subsequently maneuver the pizza around in the oven which is that true so I'm you can see like half of its gone because my wife and daughter and myself have been picking at it always slice extra tree so I am positive that because this is a video this piece is probably gonna get mangled and I put in the oven but you know what I'm making deal with you right now then no matter what happens to this pizza this video is going to go up because it's good to see when when people even you know like professionals which I technically am um screw up right everybody screws up a sous chef Eric's pancetta on a little bit of parmesan on a little pinch of salt a little actual I'm not gonna do the olive oil because this has a lot of sort of fatty meats on it all right so the camera is in the way of how I normally do this over to we're gonna try it this way job ready ready this is a very loose feeling Doh OOP there goes that hole but like I promised we're gonna go we're gonna go ahead with it what a mess this might be the worst beats I've ever made in my life it's probably not but it very well might be I don't know what happened to this what well let's see how it bakes I bet it's still going to be still enjoys fine you're definitely gonna need some beer if you peel this guy up off the bottom so they're called pizza peels right I [Music] think it's gonna be just fine yeah that's gonna be great and the top down a little bit all right now what's going to happen is this peel is the the stone of course is going to be a mess but it's fine you can burn all that stuff off and then now you just get yourself one of these grill brushes and scrub it and it'll be just fine like every I guarantee you every single pizza oven in the world has at some point had a floppy Pizza burned onto it [Music] [Music] what I'm gonna do I'm gonna gonna take that out so I can rescue those bits first it'll be my daughter's portion hmm very good each other bottoms up so what we're gonna call this episode is doesn't matter still pizza let's throw these back on there I'd say we're almost done here all right now it was a moment so when you get a pizza like this the secret is if you want to still get a nice beauty shot out of it there's almost always a couple of slices that are still all right I'll show you see with the bottom bottom under le looks like who looks good to me too much we're still delicious we're still gonna have dinner and we're gonna reshoot this episode at some point I'll show you an actual good pizza alright everyone thank you for watching bye okay so now since I just remembered okay so now since I just remembered that I started this book sorry that I started this video by plugging in my new book I feel like it's actually the perfect ending because at the end of my new book there's a recipe for pizza and the main character says this before you even start remember even imperfect pizza is still pizza and pizza is always delicious and she's right and now what's really gonna bake your noodle is or take my noodle what's really gonna big my noodle is is what I still have messed up that pizza if I hadn't started by plugging this book we'll never know
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Channel: J. Kenji López-Alt
Views: 302,883
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Length: 24min 58sec (1498 seconds)
Published: Sat May 02 2020
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