[narrator] In Karelia, the sun shines
with particular force and magic. It immerses the region
in Russia's northwest in a magical light and lends energy
to the rich nature and its inhabitants. People with special visions, bears, and passionate bear rescuers. Rivers and lakes cover
almost half of Karelia, in between Europe's largest
primeval forests. Karelia is a land of light, but the sun only provides its power
during the summer. And only during the summer, do the days seem to last forever. May is bursting out all over,
finally darkness is on the retreat. One says, that Karelia knows
but just two seasons: Eight long months worth of winter, then four months of sunshine. With the first light, the whooper swans
return to the Vodlozero National Park. [swans honk] They spent winter in the far west
of the continent. Their return sounds like
a jazz band tuning up, with plenty of loud trumpeting going on. [hooting] [honking] A few new faces get to know each other, while others renew old partnerships. The majority of whooper swans
stay together for many years. They are revered in Karelia as a symbol of the short summer. Elegant harbingers of light, that bring with them new life. [hooting] The young brown bears see their
new neighbors for the very first time. They were born in a dark den
at the beginning of the year. Now, protected by their mother, they are busy discovering
what the forests and moors have to offer. These cranberries from last year,
for example. All the fruit was frozen beneath the snow. Now thawed, the berries
are the little bears first solid food. The brown bear is the mascot
of Russian Karelia. Around 3,500 of them live here
in the primordial wilderness. Not only in the protected zones. This is still possible in Karelia. The country is sparsely populated. On an area somewhat larger than the UK, live around as many people
as the entire population of Birmingham. But even in this vast bear paradise, tense encounters can still take place. A large bear male enters the clearing. Occasionally, old bears kill younger ones so that their mothers become fertile again and they can become fathers themselves. The experienced female
is no fool and retreats. At Lake Onega in Karelia's southeast, the sun is going about finishing off
the annual ice age. During the winter, thick ice masses
blanket the shores. Once the ice has melted and the sun shines
down at a certain angle, one can catch a glimpse
of some rock carvings, mystical messages dating back
to the Stone Age. Shamans scratched them into the stone
six millennia ago. Even back then, mankind was able
to predict the course of the sun, which was and is vital in a land in which darkness rules
for eight months of the year. There are more than one thousand pictures
on the cliffs. Hundreds of them depict whooper swans. Swans were revered because they could
look in so many directions, thanks to their long necks. Into the future too, perhaps? A symbol of light
ever since the Stone Age. The whooper swan in the summer sun. [swans cry] [bells chime melody] Karelia is an ancient, cultural landscape, even if it is, to this day,
only sparsely populated. This small community in Vodlozero
National Park is something very special. [chanting] The people here live according to
strict ethical principles that they imposed on themselves. Father Oleg Chervyakov wants more than to
simply keep the old Orthodox rites alive. His "career," if you will,
is quite an unusual one. He began as an astrophysicist. He then founded
the Vodlozero National Park, with its 4,000 square kilometers,
back in the days of the old Soviet Union. [people] Amen. But because he couldn't implement his idea
of nature conservation that reconciles both mankind and nature, he resigned in 2001
and has lived according to his philosophy ever since in a small community
of kindred spirits. [speaking Russian] [translation] Even here,
in the huge Vodlozero National Park, it wasn't possible to implement
my perceptions of sustainability. This is why I decided to at least try to
realize my ideas in this tiny settlement. Initially, we want to learn how to live
in the traditional manner, in order to show others
that this really is do-able and not just an idea. Father Oleg wants to live here
in the national park, but at the same time does not
want to destroy anything to do with the countless miracles
that Karelia's nature has to offer. [bird calls] Together with the return of the light, the mating season of the Eurasian
black grouse begins in the moors. [hisses] With a bit of karaoke... [hooting] ...and a dash of Strictly Come Dancing, the splendid black grouse
want to impress the hens. [chirping] Of course they do. The males attempt to hit
especially the red "roses" of their rivals with their beaks. [squawks] Hanging wings and well-positioned
tail feathers cause the most resolute of the ladies
to swoon. These are the things that decide
which one of the opponents the girls will choose to mate with. As long as, like now,
a young, white-tailed eagle doesn't come along
and ruin all of the mating rituals. [tweeting] Karelia is birch country. The undemanding, winter hardy tree,
likes low-nutrient, peaty soil. The white bark reflects the light, a perfect sunscreen
during the long summer days. Everywhere, the water appears to be
covered in a carpet of shimmering gold. This is all down to the pollen of catkins that spread themselves out
across the surfaces of lakes and moors. [chirps] An icterine warbler
chirps in the branches, on which hundreds of insect species
have made their homes. Many of them are closely linked
with the birch. The female parent bug for example,
lays her eggs on the undersides of leaves. In contrast to many other bugs, she's a good mum and guards her offspring
for several weeks. This is where she gets her name from. When she feels threatened, she makes a buzzing noise with her wings and emits a nauseating, septic fluid
that expels her enemies. After hatching, the bug larvae
remain close together. In groups, they find protection
from their enemies. When moving home,
they deposit a scent trail which each of them follows,
one after the other: A kind of larvae polonaise
that moves on to the next juicy leaf... that they pierce and then suck away
to their hearts content. June. The days are getting longer fast, until the sun sets no more. The time of the "white nights" begins; peak season for the black-throated divers, who can now go fishing
without any interruptions. The birds have now been active
for 24 hours and sleep very little. [birds call] [hoots] The partners keep in contact
over great distances with audible calls. [calls loudly] Their nests are often located
directly at the water's edge. A hooded crow has been very attentive... The nest is in danger. The crow could show the bear the way. So the brooding diver silently creeps off, just to appear somewhere else, making a lot of noise
to draw attention away. The trick works. The bear is unaware of the nest and so it's one-nil to the diver...
this time. But it's much too early
to give the all-clear yet. The parents remain nervous. [squawks] As now, the nest is empty
and the crow doing his rounds. [honks] An attack solves the problem. The black-throated divers have mastered
a dangerous situation in time-tested teamwork. While the female returns to the nest... her partner whiles away the summer
by catching mosquitoes. Not too far away, the growing bear children are busy
discovering what the moor has to offer. The siblings feel secure
when close to their mother. She protects them and gives them
the necessary self-confidence to be able to discover the world
around them on their own. [bird tweets] But not even the strongest bear mother
can do anything if attacked by an overpowering enemy:
Mankind. Despite strict protective measures, brown bears in vast
and hardly controllable Karelia, are continuously poached. The illegal hunters are after the adults. Often, the helpless young animals
are left to their own devices. When brown bear children
lose their mothers, they also quickly lose their bond
with nature. This is why Moscow biologist
Vladimir Bologov takes care of bear orphans
in his own unconventional way. [translation] We're in Karelia,
a very beautiful region. Karelia is north of St. Petersburg. Hardly any people at all live here. There are huge areas,
where wolves, bears and lynx live. I think it's a good place in which
to reintroduce animals to the wild. Especially as there are
so many islands here. They are like a natural enclosure and serve my plans
for re-introduction perfectly. [bears roar] Vladimir Bologov has eight bear children
with him: orphans, whose mothers were killed
by illegal hunters. And "surplus" babies, who were born
in obscure zoos somewhere. [bear cries] [bear growls] The little bears were first taken care of
at a rescue center near to St. Petersburg. But there is not enough room there
and they would have been put down. But Bologov travelled 1000 kilometers
with them into Karelia's northwest, not far from the Finnish border. He searches for a safe place for the
little ones in the remote wilderness. He wants to give them a chance to survive in the most independent
and bear-like way possible. On one of the many islands
they should be able to make it together. At the same time, they would be
relatively safe from enemies there. The whooper swans also appreciate
the safety of the small islands. They offer protection from nest thieves. Five weeks later and the chicks hatch
from the eggs and follow the parents into the water. [swans cry] Even after the shortest absence, partners
are greeted with substantial trumpeting. The chicks do not yet have
the characteristic long neck. This is why the parents have to feed them by fetching water plants for them
from the bottom of the lake. [chick tweets] [chittering call] This summer, it is unusually hot
and sticky in Karelia. A thunderstorm is brewing overhead. [distant rumbling] [thunder] Severe weather and storms
make their way across the country. Water temperatures are also
significantly higher than usual. Oxygen is becoming scarce
in the shallow water zones of the lakes. This claims victims. A wolverine is looking for fish
that have died in the water and washed ashore. [bird chirps] It is one of Karelia's
most secret inhabitants and hardly anything is known
about this animal. Many other predators
now also find easy prey. A fox patrols the beach too, hoping to find some tasty bits and pieces. The smell shows him the way. A hooded crow has found
what he was looking for. The fox too was successful and makes his way with his fish
to the forest in order to eat his prize undisturbed. The wolverine could not only relieve him
of his prey, the big marten is at least double
the weight of a fox and much stronger. In the summer, the "hyenas of the north"
often live from carrion. But the strong robbers also eat anything
that comes their way, even imprudent foxes. A large bear is also searching the shore
for something edible. And once again, crows show the way. When several of them
head for ground simultaneously, there must be a nourishing reason. [crows call] The omnivores
in Russia's moors and forests know exactly what they are looking for. Meanwhile the wolverine has found
the carcass of a wild forest reindeer. But an opulent meal like this
lure other gourmets as well. Wolverines rarely ever face
a confrontation with a bear. If they do, however, their extremely aggressive behavior
surprises many a bear. Even though stronger by far, more often than not,
the bear leaves the field to the marten. This time it's one-nil for the bear. But whether or not the bear orphans
will manage, the next few days will show. [speaking Russian] Vladimir Bologov's method of reintroducing
bears to the wild is unusual, but has already proved successful
in other regions of the country. The little bears only have a chance
of survival in freedom if they don't turn to humans
as mother substitutes. [bears cry] The idea here is, that surrounded by water
on this remote island, they will be able to grow up
by means of their own resources. Bologov and his companions distribute the food they
have brought with them in the forest. This is to help the animals
during the initial days. When young bears are older than six months
and have enough fat reserves, they are able to make it
in the wilderness alone. Several essential behavior patterns
and abilities are inherent and need not have been taught
by the mother. At least they can now leave
the cramped crates. [bear cries] They are very wary when taking
their first steps in the wilderness... with a mixture of curiosity and caution. [Bologov] As yet, they are unaware
of where they are. After all, they have only just
left their crates. And it is their first day
in the great outdoors. They don't know their mother
and were reared with milk. They have never seen the real outdoors. Of course, now they are confused
and don't know what they should do. But instinctively they will know
what they have to do. Therefore it is important
to begin to leave them, so that they can make it alone. Let's see how they get on. [birds tweet] [narrator] When the summer sun lets light
and shadow scurry across the trees, the primeval forest becomes a nursery. [calls] After an eight-month pregnancy,
the moose cow has given birth to a calf. Within a few days it begins to chew
for the first time on green food. And in doing so meets someone unknown. Moose are loners that only meet to mate. [calls] The calf quickly returns to its mother. We are still several weeks away
from the mating season. The moose are not yet ready
for one another and the bull could be dangerous
for the calf. [calf squeaks] Better if the cow would stand in its way. [bird calls] And so, it remains a short,
inconsequential rendezvous in the vast forests of Karelia. All of a sudden,
in the middle of summer... it begins to snow. Well... rather the seeds of the willowherb scurrying across the countryside,
blanketing the traces of bygone days. Behind the idyll is a tragic story. Once, there were 40 villages in the region
of the ensuing Vodlozero National Park. [bird croaks] [croaks] In the days of the Soviets,
in the remote region bordering on Finland, the farmers could barely be controlled
by the state. For this reason, they were simply
relieved of their livelihoods. Father Oleg remembers how it was
when the villagers were banished. [translation] In 1953, the inhabitants
were ordered to leave the village within 24 hours. Each farm was allotted just one sledge, for belongings and for all family members. Children, the elderly and women
were placed on top. Household goods had to be left behind
and almost all animals were slaughtered. Today, the abandoned fields present
a sad, yet not hopeless aspect. Nature has returned and takes its place. The fields have given way to forest, the birds make their nests, moose and bears have found their way here. For me it's like an allegory. Like a picture of sunken infinity. It's like the age-old story of Atlantis: just like the legendary continent, here the civilization of the farmers
disappeared overnight. [narrator] If it was up to Father Oleg, traditional culture should be brought
back to life all over Russia and not be subject to eternal decline. Like Karelia's summer sun
that never completely disappears. Its light always radiates. Sometimes it immerses the country
in a golden shimmer. Sometimes the entire sky
appears to be aflame. In the cool of the morning,
mist still blankets the moors. When the silvery glowing ball of the sun
rises in the sky... the swathes gradually dissolve. For the wolverine,
this is one of the best times of the day. The female is hunting fish and frogs. Wolverines live in Northern tundras
and forests, from Asia to Scandinavia
and North America. The bear-like marten is the subject
of manifold myths. This one is curiously observed
by another of her kind. A small sensation: filming a wild wolverine swimming, is a case of major good fortune! [croaking call] The friendly greeting shows these animals
are very familiar with each other. The young male is about five months old. And he has a brother too. The two young never miss an opportunity
to play with each other. Their games serve
mostly a trial of strength. Although the young have been eating
solid food for quite some time now, one of them still fancies some milk
from mother's bar. But she has noticed something. The female tries to sniff out
the intruder. Unsuccessfully: the wind direction
is unfavorable. The mother is suspicious. Her nose and hearing are very acute, but she can only see clearly
for short distances. The elk knows to keep a safe distance
from the three predators. When it comes to running he is more than
a match for the wolverines. Finally, tension eases once again. But the female will not tolerate her
obtrusive sons for very much longer. In the moor, the first blueberries
and cranberries are ripe, a delicacy for hungry brown bears. And, once again, hooded crows
point in the direction of where the search for tasty morsels
could be rewarded. There's no more meat
on these moose antlers. But underneath is valuable protein. Insect larvae: better than berries
and even more berries. [sniffles] As midday approaches,
it's warm on the moors. Small pests have just reached
operating temperature and even manage to drive out the bears. In the summer, Karelia is not just
the land of eternal sun... but also that of the huge mosquito swarms. the aggressive bloodsuckers take over
power in the moors during the day. The enormous bears are at the mercy
of the small insects. Some flee from the insect bites
into the water. This gives the mosquitos
less attacking area and as far as the bears are concerned, has the pleasant side effect of being able
to cool down in the midsummer heat. Not all inhabitants of the forests and
moors suffer from the plague of insects: nature is now full of mosquito traps. As resilient as the delicate structures
may be, the insect catchers
have to regularly spin new webs. They emit fine, silky threads
from a gland in their abdomen. They begin by building
the basic framework... like spokes in a wheel. Then they pull the sticky threads
in a series of spirals from the outside to the inside and the mosquito trap is ready. The end of summer is near. A male brown bear
roams through the forests marking his territory for miles
in doing so. At first sight it looks
like he's got an uncontrollable itch. [squawks] But in fact, the bear marks his territory by leaving behind hairs
and traces of his scent on the bark. Equally typical behavior
is to run around smaller trees. This also serves
to deposit clear traces of scent. The little bear orphans
don't have much more time in which to acclimatize to the island. And winter is not that far off anymore. A few days later and Vladimir Bologov
pays his brown bears another visit. He asks himself whether he has
found the right place for the little ones. He is not pleased with what he can see
in the distance. The young bears are cowering in the trees, and descend as soon as they see the boat. Sometimes, little bears climb trees
just for the fun of it. But this time,
they make an insecure impression. The little ones immediately
make a beeline for Bologov. The biologist didn't see this coming. To make it worse, two of them are missing. As he begins to search
for the missing bear cubs, the others follow him
like little ducks follow their mother. [translation] Now we can only see
six small bears. I don't know where the other two are. But they found the mash
we made for them to eat. They are agitated, because they always
associate food with people. [bears cry] Maybe they'll begin to eat
if we stay here for a while. They were raised with people
and trample on their own food, because they don't know
what they should do with it. How they should eat it. [bears cry loudly] Instead, they beg us for food. That's a bad sign for their future
in the wilderness, very bad. [narrator] Even living in the wild, roughly 20% of all young bears
die within their first year of life. But the orphans here are too focused
on humans to be able to survive on their own. [wails] With mixed feelings, Bologov leaves the little bears
alone on the island. I don't know, we should try
and protect the bears. One could set up a tent here
and another one behind the island. And then someone should stay here
the whole time and drive away those animals
that probably killed the little bears. That was perhaps a bear or a wolverine. Perhaps we should just bring the bears
to a safer island. There's no other way. Otherwise, after a week here,
we won't have any more bears. As well thought out Bologov's plan may be it could just as easily fail. He has but a few weeks left in which to get the bears
used to a life in the wild. The beauty of nature and the warmth
of a late summer deceive. All of those living here now
have to prepare for the long, hard days
and nights of winter. Once again, the days
are slowly becoming shorter. The wild bears in the forests are already making provisions
for the dark season. A bear family eats as much as possible
for winter reserves. These three cubs have grown
both in weight and size. Thanks to their mother's loving care, they have also survived
their first year of life very well. They'll stay with her until next spring, at which time the mother
will cast them out in order to give birth to the next litter, here in the vast wilderness of Karelia. And here, in the middle of the unspoilt
forest of the Vodlozero National Park, Oleg Chervyakov has built
a new, little wooden church. In the heart of the Karelian forests
and bolstered by his faith, he is attempting to impart
the power of nature to young people, people who have turned their backs
on the modern world... like him. [Chervyakov translation]
We have this significant idea, which is possibly quite mad. But it could be of global importance. If the story is not to end like
the Deluge, it has to continue. I believe these are no empty thoughts. We assume that it is mankind's calling
to be part of nature as its highest developed link. And this, not only in the biological, but especially in the spiritual
and humanistic sense. [narrator] And to this end,
Father Oleg wants to set the standard, to maintain the unique landscape
of Karelia above and beyond
the rhythm of the seasons. The summer dwindles away... and with it, the sun also retreats. Punctually, before the long winter begins, the "Birds of Light" make their way south, accompanied by the weakening rays of sun. [swans honk] Not long now,
and darkness will take over sovereignty of this land of infinite forests,
raging rivers and dreamlike lakes. But before this, the solar wind
conjures up mysterious harbingers of the cold season on the firmament and even now, Karelia still
presents itself as a land of light.
