John Deere 2-Cylinder Carburetor Rebuild: Easy Step-By-Step Instructions

today I'm going to show you how to rebuild the carburetor on your John Deere two cylinder tractor behind me is a John Deere B but these techniques will apply whether you're working on it D a B G or even a little H John Deere tractor now you need to take the carburetor off of your tractor so be sure to turn the fuel off first up here at the dash and then you can remove your fuel line you want to be careful when you take your fuel line off this fitting can be a little bit of a problem so just make sure that you're moving the bolt and that the line stays straight then you'll take off your choke and your throttle cables there's a small pin and then the line will pull out lastly there's just some bolts here at the front and the back and then your carburetor will come right off here's a quick tip if you use a half-inch wrench and the fitting that's closest to the carb that'll hold the fitting still and then you can use your bigger wrench to take the fuel line completely off I have all of my other fittings off and this bolt here is just about ready to come off I already have the bolt from the other side so that will come out my fuel line is loose and I can wiggle it there we go dripping a little bit of gas but not bad and the bottom of the carburetor you can take your bowl nut out mine was really loose and I'm able to take it off with a wrench and now my fingers that's not always the case though these will be either brass or steel and sometimes they'll really be stuck so instead of getting too rough with your wrench you can use a little bit of heat make sure that your carburetor is fully drained that you don't have gas in there and then you can use a little bit of heat and get that nut off of there obviously I got a little bit of gas coming out of mine you can see their float there in the bottom as well here we can take the strainer screen assembly apart and we'll get this off underneath there there will be a gasket and you can inspect that lots of times those are meaning to be replaced underneath here is the needle and seat we can take the seat off here with a deep socket and once it's loose you can go the rest of the way with your fingers the needle itself will stay in there for right now we'll just take the seat out and then the next step will be to take these screws out I'll show you a different a couple different techniques one technique for getting this screw out is to put your screwdriver in here and then beat it with a hammer to kind of loosen up the threads like so and then it will still be tight enough that you probably won't be able to move it so you can take a crescent wrench and put it on your screwdriver here and that will give you some extra leverage on your screwdriver so that you can turn that like there and then you can take your screw out additionally another option might be to use a impac screwdriver like this which is made to be pounded on with a hammer if that doesn't work and you do have access to a torch you could use that as well and heat up that screw a little bit in order to get it off now that you have your float bearings out the float will come out you can take this pin out of the bottom you might have to use a small punch if it's stuck in there and then the float will lift right out looks like I'm stuck on my needle there we go okay so there's my float my needle is still in there and get that out like so lastly you can take your fuel Inlet out right here this is just use a half-inch wrench to turn that out you can take both of these screws out if you desire but you don't have to the fuel Inlet would be good to take out though just so that you can make sure that it's clean now we're ready to disassemble the upper portion of the carburetor this is the choke side and you can take these screws out there's two of them throughout the carburetor here these screws might be really tight this one obviously has been apart somewhat recently because it's coming apart very easily for us although it still doesn't run right on the trailer so we've got both of those screws out then I'm going to turn this to the side then I can take a pair of pliers and just pull that right out get a good grip on it here we go so I got the plate out then on the side here we'll just use a small wrench I think it was 3/8 if I remember correctly yeah and we'll take that out there's that little spring underneath it and then the plate comes out just like that move all these parts aside and flip over to the throttle side and follow those same similar steps and turn this throttle door towards us and removal to those screws I get it Lewis it's easier with my finger these do have a small little washer behind them each one now I'll turn it up and with a pair of pliers I'll pull that right out this one's a little bit tighter and get a better grip on it wiggle it here this way wants to come out the side pull it this way and give it a good tug here we go okay got that out this comes out up here your high and low needles can come right out it's just unscrew these unscrew pretty easily probably the easiest screws on the whole carburetor to move out okay now and a John Deere it's really important that you use screwdriver to take these jets out too so you can adequately clean the passageways I think that a lot of people might be tempted when they're rebuilding a carburetor to just buy a really basic kit install those parts and call it good but if you want your tractor to run right then this step is really crucial you have to get it clean and clear those passageways sometimes these screws can be really hard to get out you can use heat if you need to another trick would be to use a small pair of locking pliers and you can lock onto the screw and then move it out if you need to but you got to stick with it and get these out it's absolutely critical to the rebuild process that one out there's one down here which you can take out there's another one right here and then lastly one up here don't forget about your economizer valve that's on the side here this will just screw out or you can use locking pliers or heat if needed properly cleaning your carburetor is absolutely essential to your success you can use a number forty drill bit through your top passageway here and drill all the way down lots of times you'll have to shove your drill into that passageway it'll be so incredibly clogged but you want to clean it out all the way to your idle right here you can also clean out the bottom but normally the tap one is more plugged than the bottom passageway once you do that you can use the same drill bit right here on your idle again to clean through here all the way down again mine was really clean to start with but yours will not be as clean and it's absolutely critical for you to get these passageways cleaning for your rebuild to be successful and that's where clean this idle pass which goes all the way down to the idle needle it's absolutely essential that you use the right size drill bit this is a number 53 drill bit which is a fifty nine thousand size you have to have the right size drill bit in order to do this and you absolutely need to clean out this passageway here for your idle I'm on the throttle side of the carburetor and there's two or Phasis here this orifice you'll clean out from the top and an angle and then the second oarfish you'll clean out from the bottom right here you can see there's that second hole this is an all fuel carburetor if you have a carburetor that is for gas only it's a slightly different you can see that there's four smaller orifices which you'll access to from one hole then there's a hole beside it which will access the other two orifices this is a number fifty seven drill bit which is 43 thousandths and it's really important that you have the right size drill bit normally these will get plugged up due to rust not to gas problem or anything like that so just soaking the carburetor won't work you need to be sure to drill them out next we'll take their throttle shaft bushing out there's a small felt which you can see there that should come out pretty easily for you and then you can just use a punch and place it on the edge of your bushing and drive it out it's moving and it's going got to be getting close look yeah it's real close okay it's out and I'll show you what the new one looks like here you can just drive that in and then put the felt on after it to disassemble the throttle shaft you'll need to take this screw out on the side it's to read it first and then the pin runs through the shaft so you take those threads out and then it will pull out I have my vise here ready so that I can just drop this down into the vise and the vise isn't clamping on it it's just resting on it to hold it there then you can use a small punch like this one to punch that shaft through like so that came out really easily if you break your linkage here this assembly all this comes as a new replacement part that you can purchase from us and you could replace it that way before we begin putting new parts into the carburetor I want to talk to you about ordering parts to make sure that you get the right ones first you absolutely need to read the number on the side of your carburetor your carburetor will say DL T X and then a number that number is crucial because the kits are different depending on what model carburetor you have so go ahead and read that number and then you can order your parts most of the time you'll find that number on the side of the carburetor in really rare cases you'll see it on the top so if it's not on the side look on the top but most the time it will be right on the side there for you like my carburetor now once you know the number for your carburetor then you need to select what carb kit you want to purchase this one right here is the economy kit you just get new gaskets and a new needle and seat really really simple kit your next jump up is this basic kit again it has the gaskets in the needle and seat that you saw in the economy kit but this time it has new bushings here which are important to replace those do wear out as well as your new throttle shaft and new screws and washers if you want to get really involved in your process and you'd purchase this comprehensive kit which has all the parts you saw in the previous kits as well as a ton more we new spring here we got the new bushings these are two new bearings for your float pin then we have the new drain plug we've got the bowl not here this is your economizer screw new idle and main needles these are new screws for all of your passageways which we'll take apart and clean this screw goes in your throttle assembly or your throttle linkage here a new screen these get really gummed up and it's really important to replace those just lots of parts here that are involved in your comprehensive kit will show you how to put these parts in on the video and if you want to do a really thorough job on your carburetor you'll purchase this kit and you will see a huge difference by installing all of these parts rather than just the parts that you would get in some of the more affordable kits lastly the float is purchased separately as well as this throttle linkage here so if either of these need to be replaced on your carburetor you definitely want to purchase those separately from your carb kit both of my new bushings are in I press them into they were just flush now I'm going to drill through with a reamer here to make sure that they new saddle linkage will see in there properly I'm ready to insert my new throttle linkage and I'll slide it through both sides you want to make sure that it fits properly there shouldn't be any improper play there and it moves properly next we'll put the felt on this end and a soft plug on the other side the throttle linkage here is directional see this flat side that would go towards the you in the assembly and then this side back here is smooth or rounded towards the back and then you can slide this around so that your hole lines up and then put your screw through and comes through on this side there and tighten this up if you're working on a different model carburetor this might look a little bit different for yours that might be all one piece so if it looks different that's ok and you can tighten that up and you'll be all set to put that in the carburetor I'm ready to put my new throttle door and you can see that I have my shaft in there the great way because I can see the flat spots I'll turn it towards the side so this will drop in and you can slide that in there then once you have it about half way turn your door back I'm using a self-starting screwdriver here to line up those holes it looks like my door has to go in just a little bit more there we go and then just used your self-starting screwdriver to drop that down in there and start the screws with the washer behind your new choke shaft will come as a complete assembly like this in your kit which you can just slide right in in this direction and then you can put your new choke door in it'll slide in the same way that your rattle did and this tighten up with two screws there and then on this side you do have this kind of concave washer which you can see kind of conforms here and we got a spring with a washer on the other end and you can tighten that down with a 3/8 inch wrench now we're ready to put our plugs back into the carburetor before doing so make sure that your carburetor is really clean I like to use carb cleaner that has a nozzle on the end so you can really spray it into your passages and let it dry you can do that twice cleanliness is the key to success here in your carburetor rebuild so don't go too quickly at cleaning make sure that you're very thoroughly cleaning your carburetor you can put your economizer back in and then we have all these little plugs to go in around the carburetor so just go around the carburetor and put all your plugs in you can tell you know what size the hole is to what size the plug is and screw almond I my bowl completely clean and it's ready to go back in I have a brand new float a float does not come in your carburetor kit it's purchased separately I definitely would recommend putting a new float in if you go to all this work go ahead and put the new float in modern-day gas it's really hard on these floats next you'll put the pin through the side which you can see that there's a little hole down at the bottom that's got a slide through and then your bearings can go on both edges of Bowl here once I have that tightened up it's important to check for any sort of play with your float you don't want your float to touch either side of your bowl if it touches it work well so I'm going to tighten both of these up and then we'll check that get this tight Dorcas fujairah backwards there we go okay now you can see here that my float does not touch on either side here's some play there might come out like we tighten that up I'll take a look at that and make sure that's secure before I wrap everything up next we'll put our needle in which drops down like this it does have to drop through that groove in fact I have the old float here let me show you how that looks your needle has to go in the float like that inside the hole you can't put your needle in until you get that in there my fingers are gonna cover that I got it there and then lastly we have your seat which has the little gasket on the end which you can tighten up it's important to make sure that your float is set properly you want to measure your float at the farthest away from the needle and seat so down at this end you'll use a ruler and measure my model should be half an inch it might be different on your carburetor if you're not working on a thirty-four so consult the manual or the instruction sheet to make sure that you're at half an inch or 3/8 so you can measure that mine's exact where it needs to be if yours is not you can use your thumb or your finger to gently pull it a little bit or if it needs to go farther down you can use a screwdriver inside here and push right here and push it down on it but make sure that your adjustment is made before you proceed it's absolutely critical if not your attractor will leak gas so make sure you're at the half an inch this steps really important don't skip it there's a bolt with a washer that has to go on before you put the bowl and to the carburetor and I you know don't forget that you'll be sad here you can put your gasket on and then your bowl next you will use this spring notice that's directional and the wire part comes up towards the top again there's a gasket here and then your nut can go on the end to secure that tighten that up once that's tight you can put your drain plug in I have a new gasket to put on here make sure that it's lined up and then you can put this new screen on lots of times these screens get really nasty so it's a good thing good idea to replace those and it does come and your complete carburetor kit when you purchase it you can screw that all the way down this is 9/16 size on the top of here on my carburetor I'll tighten that up and then we'll be ready to put our idle and main needles in notice that I have both of the needles here one slightly shorter than the other this shorter one goes in your idle and if you forget what side that is it does say it on the side of the carburetor this is the idle I'm going to screw all the way down to the bottom and then I'll come back out one and a half turns that's just a really good place to start it so that's all the way down this will be one turn and that'll be half and I'll do the same adjustment for the main needle here the threads on these are pretty long a lot of ways so that's all the way down that's one turn back out and this will be half a turn back out we have new gaskets for both sides of the carburetor make sure that you've adequately cleaned up the remains of the old gasket both on the carburetor and on the tractor and you can put your new gaskets and put your carburetor back on the tractor my carburetor is on the tractor you can see that my counter keys are out of the way and don't interfere with the choke or the throttle I have this tightened up my gas line is tightened up and it's not twisted there you just want to make sure that the throttle works which you can see moves back and forth and then let's make sure our choke works right here that does so now we're ready to start the tractor when you start up your tractor you want to make sure that it revs up nicely that there's good reaction in your carburetor there's no hesitation when you give your tractor the gas if you put your carburetor on the tractor and you see that there's a little bit of flutter in the idle you could make an adjustment and close that down or make it wider you could turn it from a turn and 1/2 to 2 if there's some flutter in your idle if you feel like your main jet is off maybe you are blowing a ton of black smoke out then you could close your main needle in a little bit make those adjustments also just watch for make sure that there's no fuel leakage here grainy leakage out of the bottom of your bowl or on the sides here and if so then you'd want to tighten those screws or that nut up at the bottom so do those fine-tune adjustments to your carburetor so that your tractor runs nice when you are ready to rebuild your carburetor you can purchase the parts from us at farm tractor repair com then your tractor will run as nice as this one does go ahead and subscribe to our channel for more videos in the future

Channel: Dan Gingell and Rachel Gingell

Views: 152,517

Rating: 4.8887305 out of 5

Keywords: John Deere, tractor, carburetor, diy, how to, rebuild, repair, fix, step by step, instructions, john deere a, john deere b, john deere h, john deere d, john deere g, jd a, jd b, jd h, jd d, jd g, rachel gingell, dan gingell, farm, carburetor rebuild, carburetor repair, how to set the float, float

Id: PO_AM0o7l_A

Length: 21min 23sec (1283 seconds)

Published: Fri Sep 01 2017