JBL Speaker Repair and Rebuild. How to recone a JBL 2226 woofer.

hello today we're going to show you how to do a recom job on a speaker and we've had a lot of requests for this over the last few years from our customers so we want to show you a complete video on this so you can really see the detail on how we disassemble the speaker that needs a recon service and recon services when we replace all the moving parts in the speaker this particular model for today is going to be a JBL 22 26 this is a 600 watt Pro speaker that JBL makes is a very common model that we see here in the store and we're going to show you how to recon one today with our recon kit that we sell and the Recon kits come with a new comb we have a new voice coil spider as well you get a new dust cap for the center lead wires gaskets and we give you a centering shim to go with the with the kit so that you can Center the coil properly we're going to show you how to do that so we'll go into some great detail on how to take it apart properly how to mark the old parts assemble everything properly on the new parts there's four types of adhesive we use for a recom kit these are sold separately from our recon kits but most of our customers purchase these if they don't have anything but me excuse me if they don't have anything at home to use they'll purchase the combo repair kit from us which includes a high temperature epoxy for the voice coil a black adhesive for the dust cap to the cone attachment which is right in this area we have a white vinyl dressing that goes on the fabric edge of the speaker that is applied as well and then we have our clear adhesive that we use for attaching the surround and gasket to the frame as well as the spider to the frame back here which we'll show you when we get into details on the video now that do these wreak own kits properly you're going to need a few things in addition to what we sell with the kits you're going to need a soldering iron of some sort something like this you'll need some solder to solder the lead wires through the terminal and through the cone feeds on the voice coil as well you'll need a utility knife for cleaning you'll need a screwdriver you'll need a small economy paintbrush to help spread the adhesive on to the cone assembly when you're to that point we'll show you that later in the video we use a white pencil to kind of mark the eyelets on the cone that's helpful to have not enough theory we have a flashlight that we use to inspect our magnet gap we'll show you how to clean that as well as part of the video so there's a few things that you need to gather we do use a signal generator here for testing the speaker when it's completed but that's optionally you can use a regular audio amplifier and a signal from the amplifier with a CD or you can go online and download a test tone right online for free from several sources if you want to do that as well for testing if you do everything properly on the repair video as we show you the speaker will turn out fine and once you install it back in the cabinet you can fire it up and you'll be good to go so when we come back we'll show you how that all works and we'll get into it for you right so we're back on the JBL recon for you today all the other recons electro-voice sermon Vega RCF they're all the same in their construction we're just using a JBL 22:26 in the example here for you today you can see what this looks like on the back as well kind of turn that for the camera there these are pretty common out there and we see a lot of them in for service at the shop here at simply speakers and we sell a lot of recon kits for them too so we're gonna show you basically what you want to do here this has got some obvious damage here the center cap is damaged the cone has been damaged and punctured here there's some tearing in the edge that's taking place so this unit needs a full recount the first thing we want to do when we clean this is you can use a retractable utility knife like this or a regular utility knife like this works as well I kind of like to use the retractable one so I can get in here and kind of work this edge as we start up at the top of cone assembly write the story on here kind of cut through that carefully all the way around like this so loosen this out of the frame and at this point you'll see that you can kind of bend this back and see the spider down beneath the area here what I like to do is come in here pick a point anywhere along the dust cap area here at the top doesn't really matter where because all this is going away you're just gonna throw this all in the trash would take the cone assembly out like this alright and get rid of that now you see we have left here the spider assembly we have the gasket and surround here that needs to be clean you can see the lead wires here that attach the terminals you cut through those that's okay cut through that with utility knife or use your wire cutters to pull those back a little bit like this as well either way is fine on that there's no hard and fast rules it all works just the same so this is what we have here now the next thing I want to do is kind of remove what's left of this rotted dust cap like this okay we'll take these pieces away and we'll discard those later on we'll be cleaning out all the magnet gap area and all the other little pieces from the frame here but what I want to show you which is pretty important here is the original voice coil is here you can kind of see through the area here the voice coil when you look in in the former area here it's it's see-through you can kind of see where the old windings are in this area and when you look at the new voice coil same kind of thing here with the new coil we've got the winding length here we have the former height here we have our lead out wires on the replacement voice coil here and what we want to do is get an eyeball on the original coil is too far as far as how far it sets in the magnet gap okay and we want to get a visual on that you can kind of see here that it's very even and maybe hard for the camera to pick up but in this case the windings are just about a sixteenth of an inch above this inner pole piece on the magnet structure here so what we'll do is we'll cut this away right around the outside of the spider just like this all right okay you can see the damage here that's occurred to the original voice coil we have some some scraping here that's occurred we have some burning on the bottom of the coil you can see by the darker indication on the wiring here where this unit was running hot from an amplifier either overdriving or an amplifier failure sometimes you'll get them and they're totally burnt all the way through sometimes the wires coming right off of the former so there's several different failure modes that you'll see on these depending on what type of damage has occurred to the speaker in this case obviously we have problems here and that's why this unit came into is for for a recom service but you can also take a look here by removing just a little piece of the spider you want to have a pair of scissors handy here when it take just a little bit of this out right through here a little bit hard there but what happens is if I take a little spot of that out of there and kind of set it back in you may be able to kind of get a visual in there for the height of the voice coil and that's what you want to look at and in this case we know on a JBL 20 to 26 where the new coil is going to rest in the height of there and we'll show you that when we come back after we get done cleaning everything we'll show you how to set the height on there properly but the next thing we want to do here now is we have we have some dirt and debris that's going to come into this magnet cap area so you want to have a roll of masking tape handy to seal the gap area all the way around just like this this is very important so that you don't introduce more foreign material into the magnet gap or the recounting will clean what's in there here later but the first thing we want to do is seal this once the cone assembly the old cone assembly has been removed as you can see there all right so we'll put a couple little extra pieces of tape on this just to seal it up and make sure that everything is nice and tight okay that's what you want all right now we can continue cleaning without worrying about any other magnet particles pieces of spider glue dust dirt and all the rest of it getting down in the magnet which just makes cleaning the magnet gap out later a more difficult job so we want to stay clean with it right up front so that's very important to follow that that trick there alright so the next thing we'll do is we'll come in with our utility knife here and we'll kind of just scrape basically cutting away the old glue and spider from the frame as you can see here it's off pretty easy some will be a little dick trickier than others okay there's what's left of that you see the frame here then I take my smaller utility knife kind of come in here kind of cut the inside of any of the old glue as well right along the spider landing that's what this area is called on the frame nice we kind of scrape that off come in here is a little bit of paint that comes up with it as well that's normal that's fine just want to get all the loose stuff off if you're having trouble in this area you can also soak the spider area on the frame with a little bit of lacquer thinner and that'll soak in and kind of soften the old globe if you have a difficult or stubborn removal there that's very helpful as well in this case we got lucky we don't need to worry about it here scrape this all down clean this up okay and that's what you want there all right that's the look you're after we're gonna also do the upper frame area here now we'll use the same small knife as my preference but you can use whatever you like kind of come in here and cut underneath the gasket just like this this is basically trimming away the old material and you can see it starts to lift up there for you like that and here the nice working in there okay this is all garbage this all goes away and we don't care about any of that any remnants that are left on the frame I'm in and scraped those away just like this take your time with this part of it some will be harder than others depending on the type of glue and how old the speaker is coming apart fairly easy for us a little bit of remnant there we get rid of that and that's the fabric or what's left of the fabric surround of the old comb coming up there for you as you can see maybe use your heavier blade you can some folks prefer to go that route with it whatever works for you it's fine you can come in make sure we get all the extra glue off by running the inside of the frame landing here for the surround just like this okay and now we have a couple of things to look at here we have the frame roughly cleaned and ready to go all right we need to remove the lead wires here from the from the terminal tabs on the frame here we still need to do that but this is what you're after here we're gonna come in here with either compressed air blow this out or a shop-vac with a brush attachment on it works well also like the suck all this stuff out of here like this I won't show you that on the video because it's noisy but we'll we will get that done for you compressed air is nice if you have it you can blow the compressed air through this area and blow all this out as well but we'll do the clean-up on that here in just a minute and show you but what I'd like to do now is show you the lead wires okay and how we clean those up this is where you need your soldering iron come in with your soldering iron tip here in this area I'll try to turn it where the camera can see you come in here and warm this area up with the soldering iron pull the old lead wire out keep the tip of the iron on there if you have a solder sucker those are helpful they come in they work very well to remove got the hole there right there for the new lead wire to go in that's what you're looking for if you don't have a solder sucker or tool like that to remove the hot solder from the terminal you can also wipe it with a damp cloth and work it a couple of times and it'll do the same thing for you okay that's what you're after right there that way the new lead wires would go right in to the terminal holes on the frame and you'll be all set to go once we get ready to do that on the installation of the new coil so that's what that looks like there we're gonna break away for a minute we're gonna shop back all of this clean this all up will clean our table area here for you as well because we want a nice clean working environment when we install the new parts okay that are gonna go in here like this all right so we'll get the cleanup done then we'll come back I'll remove the tape for you I'll show you how to clean the magnet cap properly and we can start stalling the new parts all right we're back we just took a minute out from the video there to show you guys how to clean everything and we wanted to clean our table area up and throw our old comb pieces away we save the voice coil cut out okay that's important keep that for now we're not done with that yet alright so we just set that aside we cleaned all the debris and dust off of the frame it's ready to go we have our tape covering our magnet gap here keeping everything clean there but now it's time to remove the tape all right so we'll take this tape off it here now that everything's kind of cleaned up around there's peel this off and it goes right in the garbage okay and there's our magnet gap okay we have a gap all the way around here this is called a tri vent this was a JBL feature on this particular speaker that allows better cooling of the voice coil during operation your speaker may or may not have this design depending on what model you're working on so they're all a little bit different this particular model 22:26 does have that feature now you want to just give a visual area or you know kind of an eyeball visually to this area here to make sure the gap looks even to you there are gap gauges that you can measure this with but typically in 99% of the cases everything will be fine there if you see that the magnet plate has moved over or locked up that means the speaker's probably been dropped and the magnet plate is shifted at that point you may need to send it in to us to have us take it apart and recenter the magnet assembly for you for that service that's something that we do do in-house here at the shop now if everything looks good like this which it should at this point we want to take the shop back and hit this one more time just to make sure there's no pieces that we missed that are in there little pieces of cone paper glue spider from cutting out the old assembly so that's pretty important so I'm going to set this down like this we'll throw our tape away and just real fast them to run the shop back here be a little bit noisy now you can also use compressed air in this area if you have it if you don't the shop back with the brush attachment works fine but we want to make sure that we have any loose pieces have been removed from the Gap area here just like this you can see your tri vent screens here that prevent the dirt and debris from entering from the backside on the frame on these as well and that's important that that's all intact and in place for you okay so the next thing we want to do here is clean any debris from the magnet gap even though it kind of looks clean visually we always run or run some masking tape through this area sticky side out to make sure that we pick up any little magnet particles that may have lodged in here gotten stuck during cleaning during speaker operation or any areas that any a number of factors where the magnet particles can kind of get in there and they tend to want to live right in this area because that's where the strength of the two magnet plates comes together providing the drive for the speaker voice coil so we're gonna clean this area out just take your sticky masking tape like this usually we'll take a business card like this okay and we'll put the sticky tape sticky side out right on the magnet like we're right on the business card sticky side out like this and run it through the magnet gap kind of pressing to the inside to grab any debris that may have built up okay and see what I'm doing here this is important with an eerie comb that you do alright and you'll see you are gonna pick up some some dirt and just dust and just stuff so we want to make sure that we do that a couple of times we can flip the tape over do it one more time this way again just spinning the speaker like this pressing to the inside then I'll run a spin on it and kind of press to the outside okay to grab any dirt and dust that's on the magnet gap keep fresh tape handy do it a couple of times as needed all the way around now sometimes I'll stick two pieces of tape together to make it a little bit thicker alright and that helps grab more so there's a little more resistance in there now because there's more width on the tape depending on the magnet gap that you're working on with your speaker you may or may not need to do that alright just showing you kind of there scenarios that come into play there alright so that's what we want alright and I'm pretty confident that that's good but what I want to do is I want to check it so it's nice to have a bright flashlight handy something like this and kind of get in there and just eyeball that all the way around carefully to make sure that you didn't miss anything one little particle in there is going to cause all kinds of problems for you so we want to get all that cleaned all the way around and this looks great so we're ready to go here with the installation of the new voice coil we're gonna pop that in there here in just a second I want to show you how that works okay so that's good to go so make sure you have a flashlight handy for that I have an old business card or something thin and stiff that you can put your tape on and running around the magnet cap that's important now next thing we're gonna do here is we're gonna take the new voice coil alright usually it's best to kind of handle these just from one edge if you tend to pick them up with your hand on both sides especially on the smaller ones you can tend to make them out around the JBL's are pretty stout they have an edge wound aluminum wire on them so they're they're pretty sturdy but we still like to try to handle them just from one side win it all possible you've got your two lead-out wires here coming off the voice coil obviously those have to line up with the terminals here on the speaker frame like that okay so when you get the kit the Recon kit from us we send them with a shim which is the plastic here and there's a couple of types you'll either have this long piece that's designed to go all the way around the coil like this and this is pre-cut for you depending on the diameter of the coil like this and occasionally you'll see this type which are strips that come in and those go in like this all the way around the magnet gap just kind of show you the different types that are available here depending on what type of kit you have and that you're working with okay here I put six six of them in kind of equidistant around the magnet gap here your voice coil obviously you line the terminals up like we discussed with you there to the terminal or the lead wires here and you see how that kind of slides in there just like that and kind of stays snug in that area that's one type we'll show you the type with the solid one because that's a little bit more common and then we'll also show you about setting the height out here as well so I'll remove this again that was just more for a visual than anything else is depending on what type of kit you have so these will come back out I'll come in here with the long type sure you keep the dust and debris off of it everything's clean in the magnet and I like to do them where the gap in the shim is 180 degrees off of the terminals here we bring our coil in like this set it in place let's see how that slides right in there it's kind of snug but it's not too tight and this is how the coil moves is you can kind of see here when the speaker is operational so so that's what the shim does it kind of locks everything up for you and make sure that it's centered so there's no rubbing between the magnet plate on the outside which is the top plate or the pole piece on the inside which is this piece all right now on the original cone kit when we took it apart we had to take a little piece of the spider out so you can kind of see the height of it the new voice coil that's used on this particular kit is just a little bit it's got a little bit more winding with on it than the old one so we like to set it up just a little bit higher than the original one here about an eighth of an inch to 3/16 of an inch above the top plate out here is what you want if the camera can kind of see that angle there and kind of point to that area to show you every speaker's a little bit different in regard to that and it's very important when you take the old kid out that you save the piece so that you can kind of compare notes from the old parts to the new parts because sometimes they do change slightly when when updates are done to the coil assemblies and things of that nature so in this case that's where we want it I'll take the lead wires and fold them over tight like this the flat wires that kind of keeps the coil from dropping now now it's locked in place that's where you want it okay it's nice and even all the way around all right it's centered properly the height is set right here is a shoujo okay now a good thing to do at this point or at this time is to take the spider and we'll get an idea of where the spider kind of sits in play here just kind of tuck this in place here like that all right you'll see how that fits in there which is nice make sure that that fits properly we have the cone assembly like this occasionally these are a little tight in here to fit around the boys coil so you always want to kind of check your your your measurements there do a dry run this is what we're doing we're kind of putting everything together without gluing it just to see how everything fits all right that's what you're looking for got a nice little area here for the glue bond right in this area as well for the voice coil epoxy when we get to that here in a minute if you have to if this is a little bit snug you can take an awl just kind of open it up just a little bit like this doesn't take much and that will give you just a little bit more diameter on the neck of the cone so that it slides properly you want a little bit of wiggle in there like this so that you when you apply the adhesive we get a nice good bond in there and the adhesive kind of soaks underneath the edge of the cone and attaches this point here very strong all the way around okay on the voice coil there so another reason we save the old cutout assembly here so we can see how far up the lead wires are these are not pre punctured for you for the lead out wire so we take a look at that in this case it's just a little bit over an inch so we'll come in here with the new cone and we'll come up about about the same amount here pick a point on the cone doesn't really matter where and we'll do a couple little punctures there with our all just like that and this is where the lead wires will flow through when we get to that point the lead wires come out of this area okay like this so just kind of get again giving you a visual there another thing I like to do and that we always do here to shop and we do them was we like to put a date on the cone so we know when the unit was done so we'll go ahead and date that for today just so we know if the unit comes back in what date we actually did the repair on that's kind of helpful for us here at the shop so in this case we've done a dry run we know our spider fits properly we know our coil is set right we've got our lead wires ready to go lead wire holes for the for the new wires were set right there to line up with the terminals and this one's good to go what I'd like to do at this point is we'll go ahead and just kind of pull the cone back out we'll pull the spider back out all right and then we're gonna run some adhesive right in here and in this case if you have your own adhesive fine if you purchase our adhesive we use the clear tube adhesive the 30-35 adhesive is used here just like this right along this spider area all the way around and I'll show you that another thing I want to kind of bring up too especially on the JBL frames you'll see the screws here that attach the frame to the magnet plate we always want to double-check those because a lot of times an operation just from the vibration and use of the speaker they get loose so we want to tighten those now before the spider goes in place and that's important you see a couple of these are needing to be tightened okay so we go through and do that all right double check those that's good now not all speakers have that type of design but the JBL's do so it's good on the JBL's always to double check that before you proceed with attaching the spider here so what we'll do next is we'll go ahead and we'll get our glue ready we'll apply the adhesive onto the spider landing on the frame right here keep a rag handy for this and it takes just about an eighth of an inch here all the way around just like this kind of takes a second to get used to the squeeze of the tube here kind of come along squeeze from the back of the tube and even be you want to get plenty of adhesive here so that once this dries this is a strong bonding point for the operation of speaker cap that back off come back in set the spider in place hear me kind of pushing it down with my thumb there get it where it needs to go and you can see the adhesive starting to kind of soak through the spider material here that's what you want that means you've got enough adhesive there I usually take a coffee stir stick or something similar kind of press the adhesive the spider down into the adhesive all the way around you can spin the speaker just like this which works great you can use your fingertip to do the same thing but it gets a little Messier that way I will come in and kind of wipe up any excess here as I'm working around just so we have a nice clean job when we're done just like that any excess that's coming off of there wipe that up keep a rag handy for that be good all right now this needs to set for a little while so we'll make sure that this sets up probably for better part of an hour or so and then we'll come back and we'll show you how to set the column assembly through the epoxy and then once that dries up we'll go ahead and run the lead wires for you we'll cap and dome the speaker and you'll be all set but this is this is the first step to getting everything ready to go on these and when we come back after this dries for about an hour we'll show you the following setups on it then we'll get this one done all right so we're back and we let this dry for about an hour hour two you know is a good amount of time for that for you spiders attached properly to the frame now next thing we'll do is we'll set the comb in place and you'll see it fits right in here just like this alright that's what we're gonna have when we're all done with everything so we need to glue this at a couple of points we're gonna use our special two-part epoxy here on this area we use our 3035 glue along the top edge of the frame here and I'll show you how that's done and then once that dries up we can do the lead wires and do the edge treatments set the gasket and we'll be all set and we'll do the dome and all that at the same time so we use the two-part epoxy that comes with our kit which is this or that we sell separately if you purchase this this works very well because it comes with a couple of mixing nozzles it'll do about four to six of these speakers with one of these so it works out real well so we'll just go ahead and open this up get this ready to go and you'll see what happens here it comes with a mixing nozzle here attached a little break off point a little cap to seal it back up when you're done just kind of move that out of the camera angle there take the tip that we'll need here snap this cap off here like this and the hardener and the resin are set up in this plunger applicator which comes in very handy for doing this type of work so that we get the nozzle in nice and tight there for the voice coil attachment to the cone so we'll go ahead and get this put together just like that and now we're ready as you can see we can kind of start to push that and it comes through the nozzle and mixes through these turbines as it comes through and when it comes out it's ready to go right here at the tip which works out very well and this is disposable so once this dries up take it off you have another one you can use if you need to later so this is a this is a great way to do this and it works perfectly for these attachment areas on the coils of the recom kits so we'll have that set aside for that boom we're going to be using the clear adhesive along the edge here to attach the fabrics around of the comb through the frame here that's this part along here so we'll do that at the same time like to do them both together so we're gonna apply a bead of epoxy right here along the neck or along the inside edge of the spider here in the in the coil former so we'll do that first and then while that's setting up setting up we'll go ahead and apply our adhesive to the frame so we're gonna just kind of slowly plunge this out like this all right it's kind of work this around about an eighth of an inch or so right in this area what you need one bead of it there first and then I kind of stop with my squeezing on the plunger there and then I just like to kind of let the tip rest in there and spin it one more time to kind of spread and distribute the epoxy evenly there and that's the look that you're after there keep a rag handy so you keep the tip of that clean right there and that's what you're after you see that it's in there appropriately all the way around the edge of the cone and then what I'll do next is will apply the 30-35 adhesive here to the top frame right along the edge of the frame there about an eighth of an inch bead maybe 3/16 of an inch somewhere in there one time around just like that all right so now we have our adhesive here ready to go all the way around and we have our adhesive on the frame all the way around ready to go so now we can set the cone in place I'm going to kind of turn it so the lead wires are facing me make sure your eyelet holes or your holes for your lead wires here on the cone are straight with the terminals here and the lead wires on the coil and we'll set this in place just like this kind of give it a little pressure down and a little turn evenly all the way around you can see the adhesive soaking through the fabric on the surround here that's what you want they're kind of set that in place like that the epoxy gives you about a 15 10 to 15 minute work time it says 5 minutes on the container but it's actually longer than that which is nice that way if you need to make a little adjustment you can it's you don't have to worry about working too quickly here so you have time to work with the materials and you can see what we've got going here I've got the lead wire holes straight with this mounting hole here which is straight with the terminal lift it up this way so you can see it here all the way across so everything lines up nicely and then what we'll do is we'll do one more bead of the epoxy right along the top here right in this little groove that's like this okay nice and even spin the speaker and press the plunger on the epoxy evenly all the way around just like that one time is all you need okay so now we can set that aside we're done with that for now in the epoxy you can just let sit this will just kind of dry up as the resin or the resin and the hardener kind of work together and that's fine so you don't have to worry about that right now we're good to go we're gonna let this sit up just like this here for about probably about an hour or so you can use your coffee stirrer to kind of do this to press the adhesive down in here if you like as well that's helpful or you can use the tip of your finger if you like that's a little bit Messier so it's kind of nice to have a little tool like this too to use as you can see as we're doing here and that's pressing in and starting to tack up nicely there the epoxy is fine it's good where it needs to be just kind of spread this out like that and we'll let this set up for about an hour we'll come back we'll show you the lead wire soldering and how to dress the lead wires install the cap treat the edge of the cone and install the gasket and we'll be close to being done on this one all right so let this dry up now for about an hour hour and a half somewhere in that range is good the epoxy dries within about 10 to 15 minutes as far as a working time on it it's better to let it sit a little longer and be safe there you can see if we take our all you can see that it's hardened up pretty good for us there now our surrounded he Civ is dry here as well so at this point we can go ahead and concentrate on the lead wires here they come off from the voice coil the kits that we sell for the recom kits will have a length of the flexible high-powered lead wire with them here that is going to be soldered and connected out to the terminals this way through the holes we made in the cone earlier for you so we'll show you that the first thing we want to do is just kind of bend these wires back out of the way a little bit yours may look a little different than this most of the JBL's and speakers with edge wound coils will have this wide flat lead out wire we call that or lead out coming from the voice coil there so we'll kind of Bend that down and against the cone just use finger pressure for that that's fine you'll see it kind of just bends down and tight against the cone then what I like to do is just take the wire snippers here and just kind of cut in right there where you have about a quarter inch of that showing I'm using the put the cutters to kind of show you how I can tuck that down in there and make a nice little spot for soldering of the Flex wire so we'll do both of these that way just like this okay and those extra pieces of wire or discarded those are no longer needed alright so again we've got the shim is still in place here to kind of hold things while we work we'll take that out here and in just a little bit all right so that's what you want there okay just like that so what we'll do is we'll come in here with our lead wire which is right here and we'll just kind of take the piece that we have that came with the kit we'll just cut that in half okay so we have two about six inch pieces there which is plenty of length to get out to the terminals here in here alright the first thing we'll do those we'll just do our soldering right on top of the cone I'm gonna remove the shim so you can see what's going on there a little bit easier from the camera angle we'll just kind of pull that out of place the shim is no needed you can see we have nice free movement here with our assembly all right and that's what the shim does for us and then we're pretty much good to go this feels nice and clean all right that's what you need you see it's nice there's nothing rubbing in here everything moves freely and that's how it's supposed to work so what we'll do is with our soldering iron is we'll come in here I'll take a little length of solder will just kind of melt that off of there so have a little piece of solder to work with like this I like to ten both of these lead out areas first just like this doing both at the same time okay that's the look you're after right there okay and what you can do is you can pre-tenure your wires or what I find works just as well is just come in here with your lead wires put your iron tip right back in that area press your lead wires and then come in right from the top a little spin so that everything heats up and welds in nicely there for you with the solder you're gonna have to hold that for a moment or two you don't want to move that so that you get a cold solder joint there so pay attention to that all right that's what you want to do and we'll do the other one the same way we'll kind of come in feel a little bit more solder on there you'll get a lead wire in place there and this will effectively tin the wire as well and create a nice solid joint force right in there as you can see all right so that's what you want let's let that set up for a moment or two which is good to go there okay that's the look you're after all right the wires are sticking out they're attached here to the both these points okay good to go we'll come back we'll filter the wires right through the holes in the cones carefully like this all right and I'm using my other hand to go behind the cone to just kind of grab the wire and gently pull it out there all right just like this okay if you see that's a little bit crooked there if you want you can kind of come in and straighten that out a little bit just for appearance at that point it won't affect the function of the speaker in any way okay so we have a good connection point here and a good connection point here all right so that's where we're at with that we'll do the doming here in just a moment okay the dome will go in like this we'll do some black adhesive treatment along the lead wires we'll do the black doming adhesive all at the same time there for you but what I'd like to show you next before we put the gasket back on on this model is its it's easier to do the edge treatment here with the white polyvinyl treatment that we have for the fabric surrounds all right we need to apply that treatment to this edge to seal it so that it doesn't leak air and it provides a good seal all around the speaker cone so what we'll do is we'll just open this up it's easiest on these to just kind of poke a hole right in the center user all thumbtacks something long and kind of thin don't cut the tip of this off because then that allows too much of a flow of the adhesive so just come in here like this if the camera can kind of see that there but that's what you want just like that just poke a hole and the tip of the glue that we provide you there and then you can come in and I usually start right on the outside edge here just like this spin the speaker let the tip of the glue kind of or the tip of the sealer do the work therefore you come in like this squeeze that out try to get it as evenly as possible as even as possible around the column just like this then what I like to use is just a one-inch wide kind of a Nakano brush Home Depot Lowe's special kind of thing like this it works perfectly anything you have around the house small paintbrush or something like that will work great and then I just lightly let the brush do the work right in here and this is spreading the sealer all around the edge I usually come back in here like this run a little bit extra right down onto the column and as you can see we have some bare spots here some thin spots so we'll do a little bit more of an adhesive treatment in here for the sealer right in this area this takes a little bit of getting used to but it's not really too difficult and now we have a little bit extra on there or were basically you're painting it and it's easier to move the speaker than it is to try to brush around the speaker so that you get a nice finish all the way around do this like this and once that dries that'll dry clear and kind of shiny a little bit tacky but that'll provide the seal for the surround and that's what you're after is this kind of a look right here okay spin the speaker that really helps you out there and then we'll do a little bit of edge treatment right on the outside the way that this particular speaker is designed is there's a sharp kind of an edge on the surround that bends down and towards the frame so it's easier to do this before you put the gasket on so that you can kind of work the brush around just like you see me doing here all right you can see don't worry about these couple of thin spots we'll go back and touch those up here in just a second a lot of times just working the brush and the action of the brush a little bit will kind of help spread that out all right that's what you want to do right there okay a little thin spot there we'll just kind of work that in again just kind of like painting and that's what you're after okay that's the look that you want just like that this will dry clear all the way around and all the way to the outside we'll do our gasket last around the outside we'll put our four sections in here we'll use the 3035 glue for that when we're ready but now we're ready to do the dome everything is good there's no no need to let that dry now we can do the doming right now at this time so same thing we'll take the special black adhesive that's used for treating the lead wires here and it's also for applying the dome because there's no glue lip on this dome the gluing is done from the top and I'll show you how that's done so we'll go ahead and same thing I'll go ahead and puncture the tip of the glue just like this works better than cutting the tap okay so we're just poking that in there you can again use a thumbtack or something sharp like that is fine and that's what you want you get a little hole right in the glue like that I'm going to do a little bit of the black wire dressing right here just like this okay all the way across to kind of tighten that down once that dries that'll tighten that area down right there along the wires to the coil so that that doesn't vibrate or fail due to vibration so we'll set our bottle aside we'll come back in here we've got our dome just basically take the dome and hand Center it right on top like this and this is what you're after okay just like this if you press down a little bit right in there it'll kind of groove it out with the paper so it kind of compensates for the wires being there or you can notch that out a little bit if you like which works well also so we'll set this in place now we need to find a weight of some kind to set in place here to kind of hold this down nice and tight while we do the gluing so what I like to use was just a big nut like this pick something like that up at Home Depot or Lowe's any hardware store something that's fairly substantial to kind of hold that in place just like that all right so everything is centered we've just kind of done that by eye you can move that around as you need to just kind of eyeball it to make sure that it's centered all the way around with the first rib on the cone here and at this point we're ready to go we're going to apply the black adhesive right in this area and do the lead wires at the same time all in one one step for you so we'll start over here usually I'll start right where one of the lead wires is here make sure the glue is down in the tip where you want it and we're gonna squeeze gently and turn the speaker all at the same time see what we're doing here just like this come up and over the lead wires just like that alright once that dries it'll dry and it'll tighten up and sink in and dry into the cone very nicely I'll try to do this where the camera can see it here for you I'm kind to dress the lead wires come up just like that try to make it pretty so that it's got a nice finish on it when you're done looks like you know what you're doing all right come up in here like this all right now that's what you're after right there now I can't lift the speaker up to show you because I don't want the weight to fall off I kind of can do it I'll just kind of give you a little tilt there like that all right that's what you want to do once this dries for about an hour or so this will all tighten in here very nicely and we can go ahead put our gaskets on the gaskets we'll just be done with an adhesive right here and that'll be allowed to set up for about an hour or so and then we can go ahead and and bring in our test leads and run some frequencies through it and make sure she's good to go we also will be soldering this area here for you as well to show you how that works so we're good to go on that we'll let this sit for a little while and we'll come back and finish it up for you all right so we to dry up for a couple of hours now you can see that all of our originally kind of white vinyl treatment on the surround is clear it's dried now this is what you're after this is what it looks like when it's done the black dust cap glue here has dried in nice and tight everything looks good we'll remove our weight from the dust cap now and the last thing we need to do here before testing is we'll attach the lead wires to the terminals on the frame here I hope the camera can kind of see that angle there so we're good I'll kind of turn it back around on my side so I can do what I need to do over here we'll fish the lead wires through the holes use a small pair of needle nose pliers for that and we leave a little bit of slack there of course so that the comb can flex without damaging the wires by pulling on them which would cause them to break prematurely this is what you want here is just a little bit of a curve up and down into this area just like this right through here here's what the other side looks like you can see that area there alright so what I'll do is I'll Sauder both of these points up real fast I'll turn it back around and show that to you and we'll snip off the excess there and we should be good to go we'll go ahead and get that done here for you kind of bend down and work this area here let the solder or the heat of the gun do the work for you you don't get a cold solder joint good there alright slip that back to side and that's what you're after nice and clean both sides done I'll just snip off the excess there just like that throw the extra away and that's what you're after that's what you want right there Wow the comb to flex we want to make them too long you don't want to make them too short so you got it just kind of get an eyeball for that and make sure that it's not going to slap the coning cause the noise and cause premature failure or be too short so that's the look that you're after there speaker is pretty much ready to go we'll apply a bead of adhesive up here to install the gasket we have another unit that we did earlier today that's finished that we'll show you for testing we'll just run a couple signals through it real fast for you just to show you how that works again that part's pretty optional you don't really need to do that but if you have a signal generator that's always helpful or you can go online and download some tones so we'll go ahead and install our gasket here making sure we line up the mounting holes there's eight mounting holes in the frame we've got eight notches in the four sections of gasket here to allow for that we'll set him to place just like this all right we'll check our holes here and make sure that we're lined up properly as we come around all right just like that okay kind of use your hands to kind of press that down in and normally what we'll do is we'll flip the speaker over and allow it to dry for another hour or so just kind of do one of these give you an idea let the weight of the speaker set down and press the gasket in place you can see our lead wires from this angle here as well right here on the backs of the terminals that are trimmed in cut that we just showed you so this this unit is pretty much ready to go a little bit extra glue there just kind of wipe that up so that's the finished product that's what you're after right there on the floor recall on the JBL 22:26 and we sell the recon kits on our website or you can send them in to us and we'll do them professionally here for you as well so we can help you either way on that I set this one kind of out of the way we'll bring in the other one that we did earlier same thing did this one earlier for you and we'll hook up some signal generator wires here we have a signal generator sitting out to the side of the table here that you can't see in the camera view what we'll do run a couple of signals through so you can kind of see the connection point there just like that just use the spring terminals on the wires there from the amplifier and this gives you an idea how we test these when they're done we just run a series of frequencies throw them like this just to make sure everything's clean in the way you need it and that's what you want right there nice clean operation no rubs buzzes or distortion and you are done

Channel: Simply Speakers

Views: 3,935,515

Keywords: JBL (Business Operation), Subwoofer, speaker repair, fix, how to, repair, jbl, recone, cone repair, replace cone, bass, speaker, sound, audio, reconing, blown speaker, tips, tricks, do it yourself, 2226h, jbl repair, voice coil, spider, cone, subwoofer, jbl 2226, simply speakers

Id: x6CCrLz-Zts

Length: 49min 7sec (2947 seconds)

Published: Mon May 13 2013