Hi, I am Kamil and today I will show you how to make a quick and cheap, and at the same time a simple and advanced well in your own garden , has been passionate about water for many years and although I do not feel like an expert , you have already made hundreds of my materials. If not thousands of boreholes, you have your own wells, which is confirmed by the numerous e-mails you receive. Based on the problems that you reported to me while building my own wells, I conducted a number of tests, bringing today's version 4.0 to an ideal state. Today I present you well 4.0 in the final version that meets all your expectations and you can do it anywhere . Check whether it will be possible to make an additional well at your studio, you will be able to do it, as I mentioned, practically everywhere, so clay, sand and dust will not be a problem if you like my hard work, I will be very grateful if you leave a paw and share this one video on their media. I will also try to reply to each comment, so I invite you to watch. In general, water is everywhere , water is even inside us - we are made of water ourselves. Our planet is like a glass ball in which all the ingredients necessary for life are trapped. Including water - water will not evaporate , water will not soak, water has always been and will be in the same amount , you probably remember from school that water exists in three states of aggregation , I will not discuss them today, but you know well that when it is warm - water evaporates . It gathers in the clouds it cools back and forth as rain falls to the ground. A lot of water evaporates over the oceans , then in the clouds they move to the land and fall as rain. The same interesting reactions take place deep into the ground in the ground there are three aquifers in hydrology they are called rock layers containing water The first layer is groundwater water which from rain falls to the ground and soaks into the soil. They are located on several dozen centimeters, sometimes even several meters. The second layer is the "first aquifer" and water penetrates this layer, which did not have time to evaporate during warm days. The first aquifer is often recharged in winter, when the snow lies, the water goes to the groundwater, which slowly drains, cleansing and filtering, and goes to the first aquifer. Then the first aquifer in the soil is fed and there is a third aquifer, which is called "deep layer", this layer will never pass this surface water. It's very deep, so you 're probably asking, where is the water in there from? When glaciers melted hundreds of 1,000 million years ago, this water was simply trapped there. There is so much of it that it will last for another 1000 years, but it is not water that is constantly fed. This surface water will not get there. So, believe it or not, the water from the deep aquifer can also be hundreds of thousands of Years , therefore the well that I am going to show you today is not a deep well and it will never be a deep well and it is not also a well that takes groundwater . aquifer as you guessed it, in order to have our own well, we must have a "first aquifer" as a determinant of the first aquifer. Because they are related to each other, the groundwater layer is connected, so we will not build wells in urbanized areas, where a lot of human activity, where we have drainages and drainage pipes, But we will certainly make wells in areas where the first layer of groundwater can be found when we find a layer of groundwater . "first aquifer" to check it in a simple and cheap way, it is enough to buy a two-meter pipe or possibly a three-meter diameter 110 and dig it into the ground or drill it into the ground, if we get into the groundwater, it will definitely be a "first aquifer". Wells are best done during the peak period in summer June July August when the water in the ground is the lowest, a properly constructed well in this period will guarantee a large amount of water in summer and in winter, when we make wells in winter in summer , when the waters go lower, we may not have the capacity that will be needed, and in summer we need it as much as I mentioned before to be done I will use a test borehole I have a drill fi160 If someone does not have an auger, he does not have to buy it, he just needs a spade for this I prepared two pipes , one is a two-meter pipe fi110 and the other three-meter pipe if he sticks it in and I still have no water In the ground , I take it out and put the three in, hammering it deeper. I put my 110 pipe into the drilled hole, which is about a meter deep. If someone has sludge drills or other devices for making wells, of course that he can use them, I will show you the simplest and cheapest way, and at the same time the most convenient for me, which he uses to make a well . 5m blue pipe fi32 for water PE connector and differential valve 1 "differential valve in the middle has a ball and a muff goes for it. And a piece of the tube is sharpened at two angles, one shorter the other is longer and now in this method to make a well and have a we must have some of this water, so I will bring this water in a few buckets and pour it into my pipe in order to be able to slurry and deepen with this valve. at about 180 cm. Well, I noticed my water surface here , so you can recognize the water surface by the fact that it lasts for some time and I do not know if it will be seen on the camera. This water gently acts as if it is bubbling. Something is going to happen to her and she is clearly coming. So, if I hadn't had this water at that depth, I would have taken this pipe and started inserting a three-meter pipe. Extending the Trench Once I have got into my groundwater and I know I will be able to have a well, I start to widen the trench. I do not pull this pipe out of the hole so as not to cover it, but next to it I buy about one meter by one meter wide and 80 cm deep. It is a trench in which the main pipe flange will have to be hidden and at the same time it will be used to insert the pump there. And this is what the dug hole looks like. Soon many people will say it's sand here it's easy here is soft ground you have easier. Yes! here it is easier, and what about people who have clay at the stage of introducing this pipe, we can assess how much of this clay we have with a diameter of one hundred and ten millimeters, we can easily stick the pipe, pour water and slurry the clay , it will be a bit harder, only if we get into the water you will know yourself how much of this clay is, unfortunately, where the clay is, it is harder, but that does not mean that it is not possible. Usually the clay is about two, maybe two and a half meters below the clay layer, of course, there is still water if there is more clay, unfortunately you have to judge for yourself if you want to dig further from the previous videos, I know that the guys sent me materials that show that they were also digging through five meters of clay and they also dug into the water when my trench is ready, the pipe from the test borehole I can actually take it out for nothing, it will not be needed for anything. I know I have groundwater. I know I can make a well at this stage. I can also leave it for another 2 or 3 days. If I do not have time to make the well , but if I go to the well, I have to do it the same day, it is best to come in the morning, be rested and finish it the same day, leaving the well for the next days, putting in a different pipe every day, we can do more damage to ourselves than benefits, because the hole in the Earth is like a wound in the skin. She will want to close herself up. The micro sand flowing in with the water will want to seal it. Therefore, we have to make a well on the same day. first casing pipe There was a big change in the fourth version of the well, I start with the pipe that will act as a casing pipe, the pipe has a diameter of 200 If I know that my groundwater is at a depth of two meters and I mark two from the pipe flange and from its upper part meters. And I have them here. If, on the other hand, I know that my trench is 80 cm, it subtracts eighty centimeters back. Eighty centimeters and now I know that if I drove the pipe to the bottom of the trench, I would have groundwater in this place. However, I want the groundwater to press against the pipe, enter the center and down the pipe subtract 50 cm further. So the point that I have marked from that point, I start drilling the pipe. Unfortunately, you will find a lot of videos similar to my well on the Internet, which show how people haunt or cut stripes on pipes, use an angle grinder with a very thick diameter, drill bits on it, and unfortunately, without knowing the subject, these people simply make absorbent wells . The well that you make in this way, you can connect a gutter or other drain to it, and the water that will drip over the groundwater will spread over the groundwater, it is an absorbent well, but in order to draw water, we have to make a non-suction well here, and this requires making appropriate holes . On the website that you can see on the screen, you can buy a ready-made template, such a template is sold for me by a friendly printing house in which you can make a well from this template by buying templates, you support my projects, but if you do not want to make such a purchase, you can combine multiple A3 sheets and measure the dots every two centimeters evenly. I placed the template in such a way as to keep a distance of ten to fifteen centimeters from the bottom of the pipe.It is very important when driving in, that the pipe does not break at the end of the excess template, just cut it off, do not throw away the second part because it will be useful in the next stage of building the well and on the prepared pipe, they drill holes in thicker dots. 4.5mm drill, note here is also the change of drills rows every other every other row, not every row , so let's start. My pipe is already drilled so I can easily remove the template. For people who are concerned about ecology, that I did it on the lawn. Here I must say that this is where the paving stones will go , this soil will be replaced, so I allow myself to do it, but in fact, if someone were to do it directly over a lawn , it would be better to put something under the plastic chips, then collect the pipe looks drilled in this way. And now I will take a disc with sandpaper and all I need to do is grind all these squirrels if someone wants and has a compressor , he can also blow all these holes with a compressor. And now I am starting to pull my 110 pipe from my trench, it will not be needed for anything, additionally it is in the middle, which will make it impossible to put the pump - I will do wells at one of the edges of this trench if someone has a problem with pulling this pipe out maybe some boards on the basis of a ladder, a lever to do something like this Wrap the belt three times. And preferably such a thin one. Below the collar 1 ..... 2 ...... And here it is 3 ..... times. At the end, twist a few times. And they grab the tips, just pushing it right away. Take out. And this way I have my 110 pipe pulled out, and this hole is simply covered with yellow earth. Now I take the drill again and drill in the place where I will finally want to make a well. To make my work easier, I freaked out as much as I could, and on the same principle, whether it is a valve , a sludge or a drill, I deepen the pipe fi 200 , if someone hits a dust, unfortunately, neither a sewage nor a dust drill will get out, so the valve is the best alternative . As you can see, I slurry the pipe and finish it in moderation, of course, with such a plastic piece of the profile , you can also do it with a board , of course, in moderation, trying not to break the collar if you had a problem with driving the pipe, a dust would appear that would quickly between these holes in the pipe it comes - be as very fine litter as it is in my case that keeps clogging my valve forever . fi110 and by slurrying in this pipe , this means that the sand or the gravel will not overlap the inside of the pipe 110, go deeper and hammer both pipes together, this will cause the sand between pipe 110 and 200 to slowly fall off, of course, this process will take longer, but you will keep going downhill. Unfortunately, I did not manage to introduce my pipe, because the flange itself to the bottom of the trench, but it does not bother me, as I mentioned, it is a cover sqlite pipe , two factors influenced me here, first of all, despite the purchase of a pipe with a thicker wall , it naturally cracked. It happens very often. Perhaps it will happen to you . Secondly, groundwater is present as if the bowl, which has its bottom, has an impermeable layer. I have already reached this layer, sticking the pipes further, it was blocking. Well, unfortunately this cup broke. If you want to recognize whether you are on the impermeable layer, I do not have it here, but a ribbed bar of the right length is enough. Move on this bottom - if we break through at some point, such as through a balloon or through some kind of impermeable layer, and we reach the first aquifer , it means that we are in this place, I just cut my pipe off so that I would not get hurt so that it would not disturb me with that broken collar and I'm taking the other pipe to my well. Second casing pipe The next pipe is the Fi 160 pipe, the same length as the casing pipe, i.e. 3 meters . The strip cut from our template should be about fifty -fifty-five centimeters wide and exactly the same width. And at this point, I also need a change, we do not go through the entire template, but just the width, only fifty centimeters attention, as in my case, I had to cut off such a piece from the casing pipe, this pipe for this part after punching and eliminating with the previous pipe it will simply be longer because that branch, therefore the template. I measure out this part and start to assemble the template on my pipe above the very part of this length of pipe that I cut off from the casing pipe. And the prepared pipe with the template is drilled by all the darker, bold dots in each row with a drill with a diameter of 3 mm . And my pipe is already drilled. Yes, so I can take the template off and just like in the previous pipe. I clear my holes. A disc with sandpaper. Perhaps you will ask why only such a part is drilled with holes? Why with a drill three millimeters, and not four and a half, the task is very simple, namely this part must be at the bottom of the holes from the previous pipe, because in this well holes in the casing pipe with a diameter of four and a half millimeters will let a certain gradation of stones through the pebble that will stop on this well. the pipe, and more precisely on the entire part , will stop and create a natural filter. In addition, this short part does not allow the rest of the sand to pass inside the well , in addition, this short part is below the longer part of the drilled because the groundwater here plays a very key role, namely it must flow down to this pipe, just so as not to air the pump when we take water from the first layer aquifer. The water is supposed to fall when we pump. As a result, it forces the sucking of water from the first aquifer. Well, this is what my pipe 116 looks like , flush with the casing pipe 200 , both of my pipes at the moment are placed on the impermeable layer , how can I distinguish this layer? As I mentioned before, I have a piece of rebar and see what happens like me. It will come to this layer - I am on this layer so that there is something. See if she's very tough, but when I do. Well, something like that, I just break through it. Look, see here, it blocks, see how it is through the impermeable layer. I keep raising - it's actually a bit harder work. But we put it in this layer. Another pipe. Third casing pipe The next hole is the 110 pipe and here there is no exact rule as to the length of these pipes, because these pipes have to break through the impermeable layer to get to the first aquifer, so we have to go as deep as possible, so I will also start from a three-meter pipe that I will drill and each next I will simply add by connecting the flanges at the top. On pipe 110, I will use part of the template that I drilled at the casing pipe 200, so I mark 12 cm also from the end and unscrew the template. Around the pipe. When my template is already placed on the drill pipe, this time all the small dots of the template with a 1.5 mm drill bit . leave a little bit in two places along the entire length of the drill holes. see the distance, as I left here at four and here at three intervals, because in order to strengthen the pipe a bit if you do not look at it, it will be in the first aquifer there may be quite different compression forces of the water, so that it does not bend , it is worth leaving two such boreholes along the entire length of the wells unbored spaces of a few dots. Well, what about this pipe, as I mentioned, we have to break through it. impermeable layer. Unfortunately, when passing through the impermeable layer, we can already encounter small pebbles because in the first aquifer there is usually a very fine filter gravel which makes the water much cleaner than in the groundwater layer I went down with my three-meter pipe flush with the previous pipes and now because I have it, I will keep adding pieces. 1 meter long This is how a three-meter pipe driven in, plus a one-meter piece added , I wanted to add another one-meter piece, but unfortunately it was so hard for me to enter one meter, that it stops at this stage, so I have all three-meter pipes plus four meters 110 pipes. A very important stage in the construction of the well is the first pumping - we pump three times fifteen minutes each with pumps with a capacity of up to 100l / min. The first pumping is to rinse the micro sand between the pebbles in the well and make a natural filter, but if you would like to use a different pump at an affordable price, go to the doStudni.pl website where you will receive professional advice and choose a pump to suit your individual needs. I armed the pump with a piece of pipe for the water outlet and a pipe with a check valve, necessarily with a strainer - the strainer has a very fine gradation, it will not let any larger pebbles and the strainer will keep the pump life larger pebbles than the gradation of this strainer could simply damage the pump in a natural way, as I mentioned three times fifteen minutes with five-minute breaks to rest for the pump and clarify. By pumping out the water. In the first stage, we should expect very dirty water, cloudy with sand, it is obvious that sand is being pumped out of the gaps between the pipes from all these haunted holes, and there will be only gravel that will not pass through our holes in the pipes. Water instability is a very normal process . It may take some time, it may even end for a moment, the pump may suck in water, there is a shortage of water, this is a very normal process because at this point a so-called bubble is formed in which sand is pumped out and water begins to be sucked into the well. a very interesting process takes place inside the well , which will be difficult to see with the camera. this water just trembles there, but it does not come off, it stays on its mirror, as I said, the groundwater presses against the first aquifer without letting it. And as the saying goes, there is air in it. Well, look at the second pumping, the water stops its course, as I said, it is airing up, but it is already throwing in larger batches more and more water flows into our borehole. In a moment, she would probably go all the way. There is so much water. This is a full pump flow of 60 L of water per minute. During the formation of the water bubble, the pipe may move technically, which is very useful because the pipe can sink a little bit by itself, it is caused by the fact that. The sand is pumped out after all, remember the amount of sand pumped from the well , it will not be there, so it has the right to make a hole under the well , it will not get large, but a few centimeters may still go down the pipe. Well, see just such sand. The well is pumped out with fine silty sand. Which passes through all our drilled holes on, and the coarser fraction stops on them. That's how we wait all the time because pumping out this sand will end the creation of the filter from these pebbles that will remain between our holes, so we are waiting all the time and waiting if someone finds a dust here there is a bit of Kurzawski, but not much, but if someone was regularly found on on the dust mite. For the 110 pipe, let him buy a gutter drain, i.e. the pipe coming down from the gutter on the roof 100mm, this 100mm pipe can already be drilled with anything else . tie with a wire and insert it into the pipe 110, if I say, but this is the last resort. If you have a lot of this Kurzawka, see, this is the 3rd pumping, at this point the water is clearing up more and more. Already all the sand that was between the pipes is being pumped out. And in a moment the studio will be ready for use - soon it will increase its efficiency a bit, although this performance is very good. A frequently asked question that repeats itself .... Can this water be consumed? Look, I personally don't consume any water, no water, whether it's from a tap or a block of flats. I don't consume any water. I believe that water from deep spring or mineral waters costs literally a few dozen cents per bottle and even at my house we order water in large 20-liter jugs, never even living in blocks in the agglomeration or being in London or anywhere else abroad I have not eaten water. From the tap if there are people who consume such water as savings or any other. Likes. Each water must be tested, it is best to do it in the water treatment plant in the sanitary and sewage treatment plant, or in the sewage treatment plant , the test must be done every six months and then you can. Increase the attempt to consume this type of water I personally do not use this type of water , of course I use it for bathing in sanitary facilities in the garden for everything that is possible, but I do not drink such water. Well, my dear, I do not decorate my wells - I do not give you any valves to show you how high the pressure is, the water goes at full pump power all the time the dust is clear - I will also have to use a well mesh filter, this is normal sometimes it happens. See the full power of 60 liters per minute. I do not stick any pseudo water pins saying that they are wells by making needle-filters. No, it's pure physics. Pure math and the effect you have is what these parts of water are all the time and see how they overlap. That's all for clarification only. If you don't believe it, you can see for yourself how it looks live. And that's a lot of water. this is what the final of wells 4.0 looks like, it is the final well the best possible construction to be done almost anywhere, so if you like my work. Don't forget to give a thumbs up subscribe to my channel it helps me a lot, support me I will come up with newer and newer solutions for you . Alternative ... Thank you very much for watching - stay warm Hello !!!
