Iran - a vast country, often
called the cradle of civilization. From the Persian
Gulf to the Caspian Sea, from snow-capped mountain
ranges to arid deserts, it is a country both fertile and
austere. A study in contrasts - as is the culture and way of
life of its 80 million inhabitants. A country and its people - Iran at the
intersection of tradition and change. A country with
few outside visitors, for many foreigners Iran is
a place of paradox and myth. But it is home to a
thousand-year-old culture in which a variety of lifestyles,
traditions and religions coexist. Mountain ranges... Desert plateaus...
the plains and valleys of the east. Filmed from above, this spectacular landscapes serve
as a lens onto the countryís history - and its people. The mountains - wild and
untouched, tamed and domesticated - cover one third
of Iranís territory. Their distant peaks have played an
important role in the countryís history. Heading west towards
the Alborz massif, the mountains have long served as
a safe haven for many communities - and a bulwark of
resistance to invaders. Heading south, parallel
to the border with Iraq, the Zagros mountain range coincides
with a stretch of the fabled Silk Road. And near Tehran, the
majestic Mount Damavand stands as a natural defense
in front of the Iranian capital. Near the Turkmen and Afghan
border and its mountain range, sits Mashhad, the
capital of the region. A famous pilgrimage
destination for the Shiites, the Imam Reza shrine
and its pilgrim donations have ensured Mashhadís
development for centuries. Thanks to the inflow of craftsmen,
pilgrims, and Afghani Shiites, Mashhad has become the second largest
Irani city and one of the wealthier. The complex of the shrine
is a real town within the town, sheltering one of the
largest mosques in the world. Mohsen Turki works
there as a volunteer. Dedicated to the
visitors and pilgrims, he embodies the tradition of
Islamís hospitality and solidarity. I try to adapt my lifestyle
to Iman Rezaís teachings. Imam Reza said, ìDonít get mad
at people, be kind to everyone. Donít ask for anything, but
donít get tired of otherís requests. What you wish for yourself,
wish it also for others.î The tomb of the imam is a must-visit
for all Shiites as to Mohsen Turki. Imam Reza is all
the more popular because heís the only Islam
religious leader to be buried in Iran. As a child, I came
here with my parents. Thatís when I decided to
volunteer at the Imam Reza shrine. The most important task of a
volunteer is to guide the pilgrims. As it is a religious site, our main
mission is to ensure their security. About 20 to 30 million
people visit the site every year. On holy days, up to 2,000
volunteers are called for backup to inform and
guide the visitors. Mohsen knows how to
manage the crowds that flood in for the major
Islamic celebrations. The shrine is open to all. To all minorities and faiths: Catholic,
Muslim, Christian, Sunni, Shiite. All religions are welcome here. When the evening
call for prayer resounds, the most important of
the day, the venue fills up. Not only with pilgrims, but with
Mashhad citizens who come after work. More than a place of worship,
it is also a place of hospitality, sharing and above all
solidarity. Itís a gathering point, a place of contemplation and
mindfulness for the cityís inhabitants. More than twelve centuries old, the charitable foundation that
runs the shrine is the oldest in Iran. Thanks to the foundationís
healthcare campaigns, more than one million people are
said to have received medical care. Nor far from Tehran is the highest
peak of both the Alborz range and the entire country:
Mount Damavand. It is the Iranian Mount Fuji - an ancient volcano, dormant for 7000
years, believed to have magical powers. At a height of 5671 meters,
it dominates the landscape. Over the centuries poets and
writers have made Mount Damavand a symbol of resistance
to foreign rule. Often called the
ìSacred Mountainì, its peak is high enough that it remains
snow-topped even in the summer. The Lar National Park lies
at the foot of the mountain. It boasts one of the
richest natural habitats of all of Iranís
nature reserves. The soil near the ancient
volcano is unusually rich. Over the millennia, volcanic eruptions
have deposited minerals in the earth. This natural fertilizer and
the warm and humid climate allow plant life
to flourish here. The slopes of Mount Damavand
are home to countless flowering plants. The most famous Iranian
honey is produced here. Mehrdad Amini is a beekeeper.
He followed in his fatherís footsteps, who passed on his love for bees
and honey to him as a young boy. Heís now been keeping
bees for 30 years. Around the first of June,
weíre given a permit that lets us stay in Lar Park
until September first of that year. We can set up a camp,
but with tents only. Huts and cabins
are forbidden here. We set up one or two tents, live
here and tend to our beehives. The bees make honey
from thyme, milkvetch, giant fennel and other
flowers. Itís an excellent honey. We have such a
diversity of flowers here. The honey we make also
has medicinal properties. Thanks to its diverse climate and its
abundance of flowering plant species, Iran is the worldís third
largest honey producer. Beekeeping flourished here even
at the dawn of Islam in the region. Honey is already described as
a source of healing in the Koran. In the 11th century, the Persian
philosopher and physician Avicenna praised honey for its
therapeutic properties. Being a beekeeper takes love. Itís a passion, and it
captures you just like a drug. Sometimes I take the frames
out of the hives to kiss them. Thatís how much I love my bees. When I go back to my tent, all
my tiredness and fatigue disappear. I listen to the Damavand river,
enjoy Mount Damavandís beauty and the magnificent flowers
and the nature that surrounds me here in the Alborz.
Thatís my life in the camp, with all its joys and
hardships. Itís a good life. Bees are Godís blessing,
theyíre Godís creatures. Without the bees to
pollinate plants and crops, the natural world would
disappear within four years. Our very existence
depends upon them. As long as I have the strength to work
with bees, Iíll remain a beekeeper. Mount Damavand
and the national park are just a short distance
away from Tehran. The cityís climate is influenced
by its geographical location, at the crossroads between
mountains and desert. In the north of the city,
the air is cooler and humid. In the south, a hot dry wind
blows in from the desert. Tehranís geographical location
and its distance from all borders helped protect it from foreign
invasion and allowed it to flourish. After a new dynasty arose, the
city became the new capital in 1786. Since then, the city has grown and
industrialized at a breathtaking pace. Today the metropolitan area
is home to 15 million people. The city is the economic and
political heart of the country. It also boasts a Tehran landmark
- the Azadi or Freedom Tower. And not far from its historic district,
religious monuments and the bazaar, a vibrant urban
district has emerged. The Tabiat bridge is another emblem
of the fresh wind blowing in Tehran. The pedestrian bridge links the
Ebrahim and the Taleghani Forest parks. The Tabiat or ìNatureî bridge acts
as an extension of the two parks, merging into the landscape. The bold, multileveled design
does more than connect two parks - it buzzes with life and draws
people from across the city to its many leisure activities. What may come as a surprise - the Tabiat Bridge was
designed by a young woman. Architect Leila
Araghian was just 26 and still a student when
construction began in 2010. Like Leila Araghian, Shiva Noorbakhsh also embodies
the Iranian women of today. She is educated, speaks several
languages, is socially engaged, and is quietly determined
to break boundaries. Today Iran has more female than
male students in its universities. Access to higher education has
expanded opportunities for women. Living in Tehran, Iím
close to the mountains, the Alborz mountain range
and Mount Damavand, the highest peak in the country. Climbing is my passion, and I have
access to all the best climbing sites, north toward Chalus
and also south of Tehran. All those wonderful
places are near my city, so I can indulge in my
passion, my favorite sport. Shiva often goes climbing
with her friend Ziba Shahsavand, one of Iranís first women
professional climbers. As an Iranian, my choices, my
way of life, the path Iíve travelled might be regarded as unconventional
for most women of my generation. Of course, it was sometimes hard
because I had to go against the flow. When youíre climbing,
when you touch the rock, the energy you
feel is incredible. Climbing demands so much concentration
that it really clears your head. And when you go back home,
youíre full of energy, not exhausted! I started climbing as a
hobby, just like Shiva, but I couldnít restrain myself. Today climbing is my life,
and Iím a professional climber. Climbing has let
me travel the world. Just last summer I was in
France to climb the Aiguille du Midi and Mont Blanc. And I was part of
the first independent Iranian team, and the first Iranian woman,
to climb the Grandes Jorasses, following the Walker Spur. My
German colleagues were quite surprised that an Iranian woman
could climb that rock face. Shiva and I, two Iranian women,
are both professional level climbers. We can climb the
same rock faces as men. A lot of girls are interested
in mountain climbing. Itís a growing sport and I hope it will
become accessible to more people. I hope so too. The topography of Iran
shaped a rugged landscape, traveled through ages
by hordes of warriors. As early as late 9th century, Persian Poet Ferdowsi sang
the exploits of this historyís heroes. Through the 60,000 verses of his
ìShahnamehî, the ìBook of Kingsî, he chronicles the adventures
of these mythical warriors and their faithful mounts. Today, Ali Ghoorchian,
ex-horseback archery world champion, revives these legendary feats. ... The place we are right now, where our world-renowned
training center is located, is in the Alborz range. These mountains
once had military significance. The Alamut and Taloqan were
two of the fortresses located here. We know that Iranians were one of the
first peoples to domesticate horses. We have various breeds of horse. Iranís best-known breed is the Caspian,
which was rediscovered 56 years ago, when it was thought
to have been extinct. Itís the common ancestor to many
other breeds of horse around the world. Recent studies have shown that
every other breed of horse in the world is somehow related the Caspian. Horses play an important
role in Iranís history and culture. During the Parthian period,
in the 2nd century BC, horsewomen would ambush the enemy by
hiding their bow under their clothes, and their quiver
under their long hair. They would lure the soldiers after them
before swiveling around on their saddle, at full gallop, and kill
them with their fatal arrows. This is the Parthian Shot. One of the age-old disciplines that
Ali Gourtchian still teaches today. Today Ali Ghoorchian, a world
champion in horseback archery, teaches the technique
to his students. Late historical representations,
paintings or miniatures, often show indistinctly a
man or a woman riding a horse, whether to hunt,
travel or fight. - Keep your back straight
and your head high. - Side stretch and back bend. The faster you draw
the bow the better. - Never lose
sight of the target. - Understood? The first thing I teach my students is
to know themselves. That comes first. Only then can
they get on a horse. Next they need to
get to know the horse and think about how
they will work together. All that takes time but
eventually they are ready. As their teacher, I trust them
enough to hold the target in my hand. And let them shoot at it. Only
then are my students ready. My name is Ali Ghoorchian and Iím determined to keep this age-old
discipline alive in our modern world. The Alborz mountains
are a natural bulwark - but they were not enough
to repel the Mongol invasion. In 1220, the city of Ardabil
was razed to the ground. But 300 years later, Ardabil rose
to become a bastion of Sufism, a mystical form of Islam. One of the most beautiful
Sufi monasteries in Iran was built by Sheikh Safi al-Din,
the founder of the Safavid Dynasty. The Sheikh was a spiritual leader
of both the poor and the powerful. But he also drew his
charisma from the cityís location. The natural beauty and mountain springs
brought disciples from across Iran, Anatolia and even India. The most spectacular room in
the complex is the Chini Khaneh - the porcelain gallery. The hundreds of alcoves were
originally designed to display the royal porcelain collection -
gifts sent by the Chinese emperors. Much of the collection was transported
to the State Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg after
Russia invaded Iran in 1828. Further west, Mount Sabalan
overlooks Iranís Azerbaijan region. At 4811 meters, it surpasses
the tallest mountain in the Alps - Mont Blanc- but is still only
the third-highest peak in Iran. Mount Sabalan is an inactive volcano
with a crater lake at its summit. There are many hot springs on its
slopes, said to have healing powers. The thermal springs have
always drawn many visitors - even during the days
of the old Silk Road. One of the most important
trading posts was Tabriz, which drew people
from far and wide. Situated in a valley
overlooked by mountain ranges, Tabriz grew into a commercial
hub and multicultural city. The bazaar here is one of the worldís
oldest, largest - and most beautiful. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the
complex houses several old mosques. The great Jameh
Mosque is next door. And then there are the
thousands of market stalls. Its passages link many
former caravanserais and inns, in which travelers and merchants
would stop and stay for the night. Amir Jafari comes from
a family of carpet sellers, but he decided to
run a restaurant. The bazaar is central
to the cityís identity. Anyone who wants to
discover the city has to visit it. In Tabriz, when we want to
meet with friends, we meet here. Itís a covered space, but
you donít feel walled in. When you come to the
bazaar, you feel at home. This is where I buy all the spices I
use in my restaurantís signature dish. In this restaurant,
chef Amirís dishes draw on a blend of Iranian
and Azerbaijani influences. Abgoosht, for example - a stew
made of lamb and chickpeas. There are five
ingredients in this dish. Meat, potatoes, chickpeas,
tomatoes, and bits of eggplant. The five ingredients -
potatoes, chickpeas, tomatoes, and bits of eggplant - are
simmered for eight hours. We only use high quality
ingredients, to get a quality dish. This culinary and cultural diversity
is at the core of the cityís identity. To this day, Tabriz is a commercial hub that helps
bring together different communities. And that exchange has helped make Iran
the ethnic and linguistic patchwork it is today. The shopkeepers here
are speaking Turkish. Iím Iranian, but Iím proud to still be
able to speak my native language, Turkish. Weíve been able to
hold onto our language and culture. In Tabriz, we all help each another.
You wonít see any beggars here. Iran is a big country with many
different languages and nationalities that all get along very well. Outside Tabriz, the ancient Silk
Road that linked peoples and cultures continues across the mountains. To the southwest, the mountains
also offered an unusual refuge to people fleeing the Mongol
army some 700 years ago. They took to the caves to hide. Over the generations, they
carved the entire village of Kandovan into the volcanic rock at the
foot of the Sahand volcano. The homes are now
known as ìkaranî, the word for ìbeehiveî in
the local Turkish dialect. Over the years the villagers
extended their dwellings. Today most are between two and four
stories, and include living spaces, storage rooms and
shelter for animals. While some found refuge in the
lava caves, others found peace in even more forbidding and
remote mountain landscapes. In the far northwest
of the country, the Monastery of Saint Thaddeus
was established on a barren plateau at an elevation of
almost 2000 meters. The monastery complex dates
mainly from the thirteenth century. But according to Armenian tradition,
St. Thaddeus first built a church here (and founded the monastery)
around the year 66. St. Thaddeus - also known as Judas
Thaddeus (or Jude the Apostle) - is said to be buried here. And Armenians who fled the genocide in
Turkey for Iran also sought refuge here. Today the orthodox monastery has a
new neighbor - a Muslim Sunni village. Another symbol of the
peaceful coexistence of religious
communities in Iran. A young Muslim man from the
village tends to the monastery. I work for the Iranian
Cultural Heritage Organization. Iím a technician. I tend to the renovations
and maintaining the building. Basically, I make all the necessary repairs
to the masonry and the electrics. I also tend to the cleaning. The church is the
heart of our village. The church, the village and the
villagers are bound to each other, like the links of a chain. Once a year, the church takes
over daily life in the village. The monastery is a place of pilgrimage
for Orthodox Armenian Christians. Armenians gather here
from around the world to celebrate the anniversary
of Saint Thaddeusí martyrdom. Itís a three-day ceremony, with
baptisms, blessings, weddings, and processions around the
church. They also sacrifice a lamb. I remember when I was little, we children were afraid
to enter the church. The first time I was really inside
the church was when I was eight. The church and the
village are my home. I feel responsible to both of
them, because I grew up with them. Iím 23, and Iíve
always lived here. Most of my childhood friends, the
people I went to school with, have left. They had other dreams. The meat we eat comes from our herds,
the animals have raise ourselves. Itís excellent. The
same goes for the milk. The women of this village
work alongside their husbands. Even the bread is made
with flour from our wheat fields. We chose this life, and we
want to live it to the fullest. While the Alborz massif
stretches across the north of Iran, the Zagros mountains form a
natural border to Iraq on the west. These craggy peaks
and remote valleys are home to the Iranian
province of Kurdistan. The Kurds are Iranís second-largest
minority after the Azerbaijani Turks. The region has its own distinct
cultural and political identity, which it owes in part to
its isolated geography. Villages are scattered
in the mountains, with unspoiled nature
as far as the eye can see. The province is
known for its forest - one of Iranís largest, second only
to the forest at the Caspian Sea. The fertile soil helps sustain a
bounty of oak trees, fruit trees, and precious woods. A singular environment that
helped give birth to an old tradition... I used to think that when
a tree is felled, it dies. But now I know ... when a tree becomes
a music instrument, it lives on. In the past, these instruments
made of high-quality local woods were played by traveling
bards and shamans. Music and song
preserve the old traditions - and music itself is passed down
from one generation to the next. But there are pioneers. Like Rahmat Ayini, the first in
his family to become an artist and craftsman here in the
regional capital of Sanandaj. Rahmat builds and
repairs musical instruments using the finest natural
materials in the Kurdish tradition. I was already working with wood. But it was mainly my interest in music
that led me to start building tars and other musical
instruments made of wood. I decided to dedicate
myself to making instruments, stringed instruments,
because of my love for music. Originally I wanted to
be a musician myself. But I couldnít find a
good instrument here. Thatís when I started becoming
interested in making instruments. And finally I became
I lute-maker myself. This kamancheh is
made with inlaid wood. There are 140 strips of
wood, different woods. Arranging the strips on this round
surface so that they fit together perfectly is very challenging. The woods I used are
walnut, yew, and orange tree. The neck is decorated with
ebony. Itís a magnificent instrument. Music is something we
Kurds have in the blood. Thereís such a variety
of melodies in Kurdistan. Every region has
its own musical style. Further south, a cliff hundreds of meters high
overlooks the neighboring plain. Bisotun is located
on the Royal Road that once linked the Iranian
plateau to Mesopotamia. King Darius I built the commercial
route in the 5th century BCE. More than 2500 kilometers long, it was intended to facilitate
communication across his vast empire. This bas relief - more than 15
meters high and 25 meters wide - depicts Darius holding a bow, with his foot on the chest of a
man lying on his back in front of him. Roughly 1200 lines long,
the inscription tells the story of how Darius defeated
the nine ìlying Kingsî who had tried to divide
the Persian empire. The monumental relief, carved on the
cliff about 60 meters over the plain, was meant to send a message to
his subjects and to future generations. Embracing past and present, the people of Iran live in harmony
with their changing landscapes.
