A train ride into Japan's past | DW Documentary

[Music] getting around in japan means taking the train because japan is a veritable railway hub [Music] [Music] [Music] we're going on a trip through southern japan [Music] it'll take us across the island of kiyushu we're starting in the metropolis of hakata continuing to little yamahe to the spa town of yufuyun then into the volcanic region around mount aso through kumamoto to hituyoshi and its temples and finally to kagoshima and to ibusuki on the southernmost tip rail travel is a culture of its own in japan lending a touch of elegance even to everyday life as well as efficiency the cleaning crew has just a few minutes to clean a whole [Music] [Music] train every gesture has special significance granting reassurance have i seen and done everything the hustle and bustle and throngs of people in hakata station are typical of a japanese metropolis [Music] but there is no chaos with everything moving along in an orderly fashion showing discipline in public is a highly regarded virtue and everything everywhere is constantly getting wiped down because cleanliness also takes top priority hakata station is the train station in the city of fukuoka which grew together out of two different cities and lies in the south of japan in the country's most economically robust region trade activities with the asian mainland are particularly active here at the feet of the towering buildings there are also little markets and this one sells green tea and of course a lot of fish whale meat is also available but of course this delicacy is consumed exclusively for scientific purposes the evening traffic in fukuoka is not just commuters heading home because a little tradition has been preserved here starting around 5 pm you see more and more unusual trailers being pulled down the streets and lining the sidewalks yet eyes are being set up here in the evening the city's ambience becomes a bit more relaxed with people going out after work [Music] they head to yatai's which are little mobile restaurants that are always set up in the early evening and then disappear again at night of course just like in any other business there are bad times but people from all kinds of different fields of work come to visit there are the parliamentarians at the top and the ordinary office workers at the bottom i see that you think that's pure humanity here in mayata it has made quite an impression on me only once the guests have spent the evening in good company is it time to head home then a second rush hour begins the next morning we leave the city and it's 1.5 million residents on a local train [Music] [Applause] japan is crisscrossed with rail lines there are two networks the standard gauge network for high-speed shinkansen trains and the narrow gauge used for local and express trains with a track width of just 1067 millimeters far removed from the big city hustle and bustle the town of yame is known for its traditions and still has many old buildings a rarity in japan and it is also home to one of japan's oldest lantern makers [Music] at this workshop each lantern is made by hand in line with a tradition stretching back over 200 years the shop has even made a name for itself in hollywood with its creations featured in several films [Music] it's paper after all which wrinkles easily you have to play with it a bit and hide the wrinkles if you apply the paper evenly the wrinkles aren't as noticeable later on where i glued the two paper strips together if the gap ends up being too wide or crooked when i cut off the rest it looks weird [Music] but the most important thing is the paintwork which the boss tends to [Music] himself this act is almost contemplative just a few doors down there is another shop boasting a long tradition where kenichi konomi sells yame's famous green tea this business also dates back several hundred years and is actually more than a mere store it's an old trading house green tea used to be something very special attracting customers from all over japan who are welcomed and hosted here [Music] green tea actually used to be more of a delicacy nowadays much larger quantities are being churned out because the tea used to be harvested by hand meaning that only relatively low volumes could be produced it was thus a highly valued good that of course came at a price to match [Music] a shrine to one's ancestors is an integral part of any traditional house and kenichi konomi also observes this tradition [Music] we leave the quiet tea shop and head to a very lively museum actually more of a fair each autumn the whole town assembles to put on an old puppet show everyone has a role in this theater which is made entirely of wood and held together without nails or screws the structure has been set up and dismantled again for 300 years at the very bottom level the threads of the puppet are controlled and in the second level their rods are [Music] controlled the piece is about a young prince going on a pilgrimage to a temple but the plot is rather beside the point the people are here to celebrate traditional puppetry [Music] uh [Music] it takes entire teams to move the figures the lantern maker hiroki ito is also involved the text of the play is in old japanese which is difficult even for modern japanese people to understand [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] the performances are held only once a year in the autumn the next leg of our journey is also a sort of performance [Music] first we go back to hakata station you don't board the train by simply heading to the platform before taking a trip on the seven stars you enjoy a reception in a dedicated lounge this train exudes an early 20th century atmosphere the tickets are ceremoniously punched by hand making for elegant collectibles and the entire crew introduces themselves one finally japan's first modern luxury train is ready for departure cleaned by hand before each trip to make the paint resemble a dark mirror the train is meant to be somewhat reminiscent of the orient express with the seven cars only able to accommodate 30 passengers but with every conceivable luxury the attendant explains each button taking special care to point out the difference between the flashing mechanism and the alarm button the toilet's control panel has its share of bells and whistles just a code to the lounge fine ceramics join a refined light design the light button here like you can adjust and this one [Music] it's nearly time for departure and the train doesn't simply get whistled off [Music] the departure is a little show of its own everything is recorded with photos being taken of people taking photos it is typical of the japanese to wave until the train is out of sight we leave the city [Music] the light reflected from the star is part of the plan because the stars of kiyusu have to glisten we head out into the countryside lunch is about to be served on the train with chefs from the seven prefectures of kyushu on board preparing exquisite meals dining in the correct order is crucial for proper enjoyment and of course a few introductory words have a pleasant meal and feel free to ask us any questions [Music] the train makes only brief stops and at one of them we meet the seven star's biggest fan kunuhiro tashiro stands at almost every platform where the train stops he has yet to actually take the train but he still loves it the city's mascots also make an appearance when the seven stars arrives railway stations come to life tashiro has made his passion for the seven stars into his profession and he now works at the train station i like the design and how it draws so many guests to our area the city of kanzaki and saga prefecture the luxury train has only been around since 2013 and its japanese designers were inspired by the luxury trains of the bell epoch the seven stars moves at a markedly slow pace and mostly sticks to the scenic route in japan such cross-country rail journeys are not just pleasant excursions with fine dining they have an almost philosophical aim so as i already said this morning in the seven stars gold lounge the seven stars concept consists of the following three points firstly it gives passengers with the time and space for them to reflect on their past lives and generate new ideas for their future and peace and quiet while letting the outside landscape pass by through the window secondly we also aim to give our passengers new experiences as they think about their lives finally the third point is for our passengers to have new encounters with us our crew and the people of kyushu i feel it is very important to enable our passengers to have these three experiences offering a train ride without an actual destination with the sole aim of pleasantly meandering past nice scenery was initially seen as an economic risk there are now several different luxury trains making their way through japan and these exorbitant excursions are consistently sold out [Music] [Applause] in this veritable hotel on wheels the dining car turns into a cocktail bar in the evening [Music] while cocktails are being served on the seven stars you have the opportunity to reflect on your past and future as recommended by the crew manager this concept hasn't really gained traction in european trains we disembark from the seven stars and the next morning we bought the ufo in nomori another very special train here too passengers enjoy special attention on this special train with a normal ticket price the train is specially designed for enjoying the view and the seats and windows are particularly high up you can look over the conductor's shoulder in the cabin with its big windows [Music] we're heading for a particularly popular vacation region in kiyushu the train is named after the hot springs resort yupho inn and because it passes through dense forest areas it was painted green [Music] unlike in the seven stars however you have to stand in line in the ufo in no more to get your meal but it's a special treat this bento box was specially designed for the train food on trains has a tradition of its own because the trains here don't usually have dining cars instead passengers can buy bento boxes at the train stations or like here in the train they seem to hit the spot the forest is becoming increasingly dense as the route passes through narrow river valleys the mountainous interior is less populated than the coastal regions [Music] here too getting your picture taken on the train is part of the experience [Music] the guests quickly grab a stamp as souvenirs from a trip are a must for any japanese traveler and every special train and many sites offer commemorative stamps upon arrival in ufo inn almost all the passengers photograph each other to remember their brief stay or they take a hot foot bath there is steam rising everywhere as ufo in is famous for its hot springs and its weather phenomena are impressive with the sky hosting a real spectacle up in the mountains the hot springs trickle out in plain sight and you might almost feel a bit uneasy with all this volcanic activity it's like a volcanic egg cooker here a shrine about 400 years old shows that nature here can be anything but harmless little sacrifices are meant to calm the forces of nature the samsung murata resort is dedicated to ancient japanese garden and living culture and onsen is a japanese thermal bath but that's too dry of a description for what's offered to guests here the bath is deliberately kept simple you lie down inside and enjoy the hot water nobody here would even think of making a bubble bath out of it because for the japanese this would be tantamount to sacrilege there is even a traditional fireplace in the suite the meal is celebrated as if it were almost a religious ritual this is just one course of many [Music] passengers receive a detailed explanation about how to eat what [Music] it's a welcome break from the hustle of everyday japanese life next morning we're back at it again on a little local train getting ready to depart our trip is taking us toward the region this little side route leads into the crater area of the mount arso volcano it is often the sparsely frequented lines that reveal the most beautiful landscapes the fairs are displayed on board and here almost exclusively residents from the area take the local trains we reach the small town of bungo takita which has two special things about it passengers are welcomed with an old folk song [Music] and the person in charge here is a cat the official head of the station in bungo takita is named niya having a cat as a station manager is perhaps indicative of a certain easy-going approach to life maybe you need it in this area too because we're approaching one of the most active volcanoes in japan the area was declared a national park back in 1934 making the arso national park the oldest in japan the volcano spewing ash and smoke towers in the background mount arso is a volcano with a dentive craters and its caldera extends across 380 square kilometers within which lies the city of and extensive fertile land this is the nabagataki waterfall and the national park is famous for its streams and gorges the volcanic rock is hollowed out meaning you can view the water streaming down from behind water plays a big role for people here in arso there is a restaurant situated below a small spring and built around many fountains the rain that fell in osso 30 or 50 years ago penetrated deep into the earth and is now emerging again as spring water and it's the best water you can imagine the water temperature is 13.5 degrees celsius so it is also very good for cooling hideo kinoshita offers little traditional dishes here these are shiratama dango little rice balls they are made from rice that has been around in japan for a long time the odango which are made from sweet sticky rice and eaten after being chilled with water like here tastes the best in japanese culture a great deal of emphasis is placed on celebrating the seasons such clear water like here is pleasantly refreshing in the summer and when you fish so man noodles out of this water and eat them it's a playful and fun experience eating cold noodles from a bamboo stem is also a way to celebrate food a piece of japanese tradition and for their part japanese people have no trouble fishing the noodles out of the water here contemplation and quirkiness sometimes merge the whole town is full of little fountains everything here seems very idyllic but the idyllic scenery is fragile with a severe earthquake rocking the area in 2016. the famous aso temple was also partially destroyed japan is a country of contrasts with excited passengers getting their must-have selfies while the hitayushi steam train waits at kimamoto station [Music] the special train is an attraction in kyushu especially since the japanese don't get much vacation time making short outings quite popular in kyushu people have discovered the appeal of special trains it all started with a luxurious seven stars and now nearly every region has its own train each of the trains has its own character meant to exude more nostalgia than luxury and with cars boasting an old-fashioned but completely modernized design the route takes passengers through the kumar river valley following the course of the river for about two and a half hours the car with the viewing window reveals majestic scenery [Applause] the train is driven by the oldest still operational steam locomotive in japan built in 1922 but the view outside is the main attraction the kumar river is one of the fastest flowing waterways in the country however it is also damned in some places this route used to be one of the most important transit corridors to the south now however it is mostly local trains and of course the steam train giving herons a start we will reach hitoyoshi in just a moment where passengers are welcomed by a big name in japanese gastronomy has been selling bento boxes containing local delicacies for 50 years this area is great for collecting chestnuts which are a specialty here they're an absolutely local product grown and prepared here the iu freshwater salmon also come from the kuma river here and are famous many people come here just to see mr shobu but he is now in his late 80s and his wooden box is starting to get heavy for him can an icon like him just throw in the towel now yes i've been doing this for 50 years so my physical strength isn't what it used to be and i'm starting to consider retiring age still means something in japan hitoyoshi along the kuma river is known not just for its hot springs the city and its water are also famous for another japanese product satoshi yui crafts sochu here rice is used to produce a spirit also known as japanese vodka the rice is first cooked then spread out finely and afterwards a mold is added before the mixture is fermented and then the brew is finally distilled this tradition has been pursued here for around 200 years here we are at the stage of production where the rice we let ferment overnight is taken out and we add yeast again you then leave it to ferment a second time making it stronger and what if the 200 year old pitchers have a crack here you can see little cracks and here's well we repair such cracks whenever possible but you can see there was once a picture here too that completely broke apart if they break completely we have no dating back even farther than the tradition of distilling sochu are the religious rights practiced in the aoi arso shrine founded about 1 200 years ago [Music] in autumn every year the okunchi festival takes place where traditional dances are performed in the evening the seasons are depicted symbolically [Music] the festival lasts several days the next morning nearly the entire town gathers at the temple whose complete complex has been declared a national cultural heritage site the priests enter the temple where the lions are already waiting today is their day could be compared to a harvest festival as the harvest is blessed and the forces of nature invoked and then comes the performance everyone has been waiting for the lions jump out of the temple [Music] the lions bite children on the head which is meant to bring them happiness and health but not every child seems to grasp the concept a festival is concluded with a parade before we leave hitoyoshi we take a look at a clock in front of the train station [Music] a nobleman and his band appear to the sounds of a folk song [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] the little spectacle tells the story of a young prince who visits the festival in the town around his castle and partakes in all sorts of feasts [Music] this sort of oddity is popular in japan the train disappears into the dense forests these forests almost impenetrable in places characterize the landscape here as we continue onward to the south [Music] outside the cities there is a great deal of untouched nature this stretch of railway has a special feature in the middle of its layout namely a double switchback here we've sped up the train a bit to better illustrate how it maneuvers its way through the train has to switch back and forth twice in order to continue onward in the middle of the switchbacks lie the little okla bar station which isn't just known for the unusual track configuration many visitors come for a completely different reason countless business cards line the station's walls and new ones are constantly being added [Music] it is said that hanging your business card here in okaba station may boost your chances for a successful career [Music] the train arrives in kagoshima sakurajima looms over the cityscape the volcano lies directly opposite kagoshima and its 500 000 inhabitants in this lively metropolis the people aren't overly concerned by the volcano constantly spewing out ash the trams seem a bit old-fashioned but that doesn't mean public transport isn't efficient kagoshima is an old trading hub and the gateway to the world when japan finally opened up the city's mercantile tradition is embodied by the 17th century house of the aristocratic and entrepreneurial shimatsu family southern japan was long the only region in contact with the rest of the world enabling great economic and political power to emerge here the shimazu company still exists and produces measuring equipment and other industrial products the final leg of the journey awaits to the southern tip of kyushu we will pass through kagoshima and then continue onward along the sea once again in a special train with big windows limited express has striking black and white paint work the white side always faces the sea and has the best view our final stop is at the southern tip of japan in the seaside resort of ibusuki also known as the hawaii of japan things are a bit quieter here in the hakui-sakan thermal spa there are even hot sand baths the sand is heated up by hot springs you can get up again after about 10 to 15 minutes or whenever you want japan has always had two sides to it on the one hand there is the contemplative quiet side that is also revealed in its many baths and on the other hand the hustle and bustle of its vibrant big cities our journey through southern japan is like looking through a kaleidoscope with constantly changing impressions and it ends at the sea where our yearning gaze finally comes to rest [Music] [Music] you

Channel: DW Documentary

Views: 1,964,559

Rating: 4.8707514 out of 5

Keywords: Documentary, Documentaries, documentaries, DW documentary, full documentary, DW, documentary 2020, documentary, Japan, Kyushu, samurai, rail travel, volcanoes, island

Id: npGwq_ZxVKk

Length: 42min 25sec (2545 seconds)

Published: Wed Jan 20 2021

Reddit Comments

[u/deepforesthawk]

That was lovely. Thank you for posting it OP

[u/Ferdtuff]

Japan by train sounds amazing! Thanks!

[u/Fckkaputin]

A beautiful journey, Loved it.