Installing my own Electric Vehicle Charger

so I've got a bit of a confession for you [Music] [Music] hello guys Jordan here from artisan electrics welcome back to the channel so I've got a bit of a confession for you do you want to hear it so as you most of you will know my regular subscribers of about a week ago I posted a video of how to quote for an Eevee charging job where I showed you around a potential job that I was doing for a customer and I asked you how would you do it I kind of showed you the way I was thinking of doing it and I asked for your comments about how much you would charge to do the job I'm here today and I'm about to do the job but the confession is it's not just any old customer because today I am the customer so I'm installing my own electric vehicle charging point today I've got a Tesla Model 3 arriving the day after tomorrow and I've got my chart important to put in so I'm going to be installing a my energy zappy charging point today that was my go-to charger of choice just because of quality and safety reasons and the ease of installation so I'm going to be putting one of those in today so I'm going to show you around and show you how I install my own Eva charger so here we are at my house and this is my usual van parking spot here's where I usually Park the car and but the Eva charging point is going to go on the wall here just because I think it looks neater to put it here rather than actually installing it on this side and also this side would be a lot further cable run the tester usually I would I would park it here and the charging point would be on that side but I think I'm going to just swap things around move the van to here and then start parking the Tesla here so the charging point will actually be here which is really easy to reach from this point so I've got the zappy in the back of the van I'm going to and get that out in a minute and start marking up but basically my idea is to put happy on the wall here armored cable run surface clipped down and then along the wall here drill through in this little corner here behind just take out a little bit of the mortar and behind that concrete post then through this gate so it will come behind that gate it will clip along and actually here is the stairs so the stairs go up like that and the cupboard under the stairs this corner of the cupboard under the stairs starts about there and then the consumer unit is just back to back pretty much with the electric meter box there so it should be fairly easy for me to actually run the cable mostly inside in the cupboard under the stairs which is just like a utility cupboard run it along inside and then drill out an angle and I should pop out about here somewhere so that the cables only running on the outside for a shorter distance as possible just for neatness I would have really liked to have just hidden it in this gravel but as some of you pointed out there's no way of digging it 60 centimeters deep into the gravel so just to be safe I'm just going to clip it all up so this it's visible safety wise obviously we've got the gas meter box here the boiler is on the other side we've got a main bond for the boiler so that's fine we've got 100 amp main fuse main cut out fuse so this will be a job where I can connect and then notify afterwards the DNA to let them know that I've put in a UV charger it is a PME system so TNCs basically that means that usually an electric vehicle charger would either need a earth electrode for the charging point only so that it has its own TT earth or you need to put in some kind of pen fault detection device like a matty device however in this case the zappy has its own built-in pen fault detection so it's super easy and it's got its own built-in RCD protection as well so I'll show you inside here basically [Music] this is the utility cupboard as I said we've got the boiler here in the main main bond for gas is there and then this is the consumer unit so I'm gonna have to remove this washing machine to be able to get access properly to clip the cabling and stuff but consumer unit here we do have a spare circuit this one here that one is gonna be used for wiring up the shed so I'm keeping that one spare however these circuits are both off the RCD and I don't want to have an RCD off an RCD because that could cause issues with for example decent currents jamming up one of these are CDs if we got DC feedback from the charging point so I'm gonna do is just reconfigure this board I'm gonna move this RC D across one module and put the MCB I've got 40 amp type B MCB to go in that's going to go in there straight off the main switch so that this particular circuit is just straight off the the main switch I've got a little bit of copper buzz bar to go in here and then I will have to just relabeled everything so that it's all labeled properly when I shift the circuit breakers across basically this spare will then disappear and these five will just shift across to here so yeah it should be a fairly straightforward little job really in terms of maximum demand with fine we've got an electric cooker and hob which is probably the largest consumption in the house it's just a little three bedroom semi house but there's only of the two of us living here so we didn't use that much electricity so we've got plenty of spare capacity in terms of maximum demand so I'm not worried about blowing the main fuse but if I was the zappy has its own built-in load limiting function anyway so I'm gonna set that load limiting function to 100 amps so that there's no way that the SAP is up II can actually push the main demand to the installation over a hundred amps and blow the main fuse so I'm just gonna pull this out now and make myself look this space and then get cracking alright so as you can see the cupboards nice and clear now and basically what I'm going to do is just come straight out the bottom of this consuming unit with the armored cable down there clip it along to that corner and then drill through an angle and come out somewhere on the other side so I've got my tape measure here I'm going to just measure the whole width of this cupboard so that I can figure out exactly where the end of this cupboard matches on the other side and then I'll probably drill in from outside just so that I've got a nice and neat hole on the outside because on the inside here it's hidden behind the washing machine anyway it doesn't matter so much if I blow out the plaster a little bit I can just make it good and feel it feel around it and so looking it and whatever right I've got about 2.6 meters here so I'm going to go and go on the other side now and see where that actually lines up with all right so 2.6 gets me just to where the gate is basically which is quite nice because if I drill at an angle from from inside out or outside in I'm going to be hidden just behind the gate when the gate is open so that's good I want to drill at an angle so that when the cable comes out I can clip it in a straight nice straight line and in terms of the height I need to be about 15 centimeters from the finished floor in the house and that will be about 30 centimeters from the outside paving here so if I come in this course just on the bottom of the meter boxes this course here that's the one that I want so I've got these really long drill bits but I like to use this is my course here and what I like to do is just drill a pilot hole first usually and then open it up some graphs take the gate off its hinges because I've got not enough room to drill at an angle gates rubbish anyway right so what I've done is I've measured across there 2.6 meters which takes us to about here then I've measured an extra 20 centimeters across so it's just behind the gate that takes us to here and I'll drill in an angle the walls about 25 30 centimeters thick so if I get the angle right I'll pop out exactly in the corner of the cupboard which is hopefully what I'll manage to do so let's see we're through so let's see how we're gonna get on there you go not bad so that'll be perfect actually that can come through there just clip along here neatly little bend up and into the bottom of the consumer unit so I'm quite happy with that not perfectly in the corner but it's it's pretty good and it's not popped out much of the plaster which is the main worry that I had so now what I need to do let's just open that hole up a bit with a larger drill that's just opened it up to the kind of size that I I should need obviously it's a 16 mil drill bit but there's a few mil play there if you sort of drill it in and out a few times it'll open up slightly more so we'll give it a go and see if we can get the six mil cable through there now just gonna be too short typical okay try again I never any know what to do with all these offer cuts because you kind of think I'm sure they'll come in handy at some point and but you end up getting a massive pile of them and then they take up a lot of space and other half's tend to get irritated by that as you all know right so I've just warned the missus that I'm going to turn the power off and just take this opportunity to do and I'll CD test these circuit breakers off and the main switch go to the main isolator outside and just isolate the whole lot as I mentioned so we've got a hundred amp for main fuse here main switches here so I'll just flick that off now PME supply it used to be a 10 s by the looks of it someone pointed out to me and then they've converted it to Pier me when they've done the cutout upgrade or something like that now I I posted a message on Instagram about this consumer unit cuz they I was actually not sure what what brand it was and I had loads of replies like literally hundreds of replies so thanks to all of you who messaged me about this and basically it's luden but they have took over a brand called control gear so this is the old control gear branding and somebody one of my Instagram followers really kindly told me that he had a breaker lying around and it said that he didn't need and so he sent it over to me for free which is really kind so thank you for doing that and if you don't already head over to Instagram follow me on there because I post on Instagram pretty much daily and stuff that I'm not putting on my youtube channel so if you're interested in all that and so boards been fairly neatly done my pan Lord is an electrician believe it or not so he knows what he's doing and what I'm gonna do is just try and take out the spare breaker here and then shift everything across of it this new breaker in in the middle there now because I'm working on my own house I can easily be complacent about safety but I'm not going to be so I'm going to distill carry out safe isolation procedure just to make sure that everything's dead before I start working on it so that's all fine awesome so with safety work so we're gonna flip this buzz bar cover off and what you can see here it's just really nice is that there's basically this is one of those adaptable boards that you can shift around and he's left a little bit of buzz bar just in the bottom here so that I can use that for the main switch so I don't need to buy a special piece of buzz bar which is really nice so this is the spare breaker here which I'm going to get rid of but it's connected to this RCD here so I'm gonna have to cut that short and then literally I will shift all this across to the right by one module so that I can fit the new MCB in there so it should be fairly straightforward but I've got to just remove this buzz bar and then I can get rid of that spare circuit breaker that's 16 amp one okay like that and then shove that one out like that and then all of this should just shift across hopefully yeah pretty easily shifts across enough I need to get my 40 amp breaker in there yeah which is all I need really that's great so then this little piece of mini bus bar I just need to cut that so that it's just a one way rather than a two way and usually you can just do that with a per side cutters and just bend it off and that works fine and then all with a hacksaw maybe it's better and then this one again and we have to do the same you see they've got these Nick's on so you can just cut along that line there bend it snap it off obviously just keep the busbar itself straight and that's important and then that will just go back in there but it would just be one shorter right so I've got these bus bars shorter now so that will go in there like that this one here when you're doing these ones you've got to be careful to make sure that the little wire that comes out the back well it's not really a little why it's got a big wire face conductor that feeds the tops of the our CDs needs to be firmly connected in still there's a danger that if you don't do that you'll get overheating and stuff obviously this MCB is a slightly different range not range but kind of age to these ones I think this is slightly more modern one so it's slightly different size but in terms of how it should still fit should still fit fine I'm gonna do it well while I'm here is these you might have noticed there's these grey and black and blue and brown conductors which are connected into here basically she I'll just leave those ones in basically there's a five Kurama going out to the shed which has never been connected I'm gonna run some garden lighting in so I'm gonna just put a double socket on the end of this armored basically and then and then I'm just going to run a temporary garden lighting setup from that socket I'm not gonna hard to wire anything in because it's not my property so I'm gonna you know set everything up so that if I need to need it's really easy to to remove later and but it would be nice to have that life in Dublin and then use oh so I've got my shroud on my arm at here that's important to remember to do that before you blend it up I've made that mistake quite a few times before I'm sure you have to let me know in the comments and then basically this little look ring goes on the outside like that and what I do to strip my armory I'm just going to measure it so that it can go to the furthest point in the box I'll be about right it's always good to have a bit too much than not enough and then I use this I'm a slice tool which has proven itself very very valuable over the last sort of a year that I've had it for I'll leave a link in the description where you can get yourself one of these I know that a lot of you guys absolutely swear by these as well some of you swear because of them because it does take a bit of a knack to get used to it to be honest but basically you just run it round tighten it up a bit round a bit more and it does a nice neat slice through the armour ring not all the way through so it doesn't damage the cable but slices it enough so that then you can easily snap the armoring off and I use this which makes it like easy even easier so it just slide that down along the armored cable and then is that so I've got a bit of a fever at the moment unfortunately pretty disgusting [Music] all right sassy armoring sliced off so now I do is basically what you need is just a little bit of this sheath stripped back so that you can go around the gland like that so I try to keep that to a minimum but about this much I'll be I'll be fine just slides off and just wind this around I bent the armoring a little bit too much on that unfortunately but it's fine handsome we're getting away with it and then and as always there's one tool I forget well to my grips my water pump pliers and those of you who are viewing you're not from the UK this is basically our standard external cabling that we use it's got a steel wire arm ring around it and that still more armoring has to be earthed it isn't necessarily acting as a circuit protective conductor for the earth for the cable because in this case it's a 3-course it's got its own circuit protective conductor within it but it's more just to act as an earth with metallic sheath for the cable to protect the cable and then if it gets pissed by a nail or screw or Spade of something then it's more likely to activate the circuit protection the fault protection on the circuit and cause the circuit breaker to trip so that's like that and then what I'm gonna do is put one of these earthing nuts on the inside so that it it's all earthed properly back to the board and this outer sheath will just be stripped back and all identify this later somebody told me about these apparently these teeth are just to scrape the paint off and then you're supposed to flip it over so that's what I'm gonna do and I'm just going to use this gland here as dummy basically just scrape the paint off the metalwork first before I connect the real gland [Music] so here is my as a PE now obviously these are not the cheapest charges in the market and you might think why are you installing as a P when you know it costs like eight hundred quid when you could install a rollick for like three hundred quid but as you know I believe in quality I believe in quality for my customers and I believe in quality for myself you know that's an ethos that kind of rules the way I run my business and the thing is about rolek charges is there's been so many quality issues that I just don't really believe in them anymore plus all the hassle that goes along with actually trying to install one whereas these are so easy and the quality is amazing and also the fact is that I'm recommending these to my customers if I've got one in my house that carries a lot of weight if I turn up on a job to quote for someone and I say to them yeah I recommend zappy I've got one in my own house I use it to charge my taser every day then they're gonna be like okay this guy really knows what he's talking about and you know he's not just flagging us to try and sell us something but he genuinely believes in the product that he's he's selling so that's why I believe that it's definitely good like for example nest products I've got all the nest products in my own home as well because I believe that it makes you so much better installer when you actually use the product yourself on a day to day basis you know all the little ins and outs of them all the quirks and maybe that the great features that the customer might not even know about trying to avoid drilling the bricks as much as possible but I think I'll just have to do one brick anchor at the top and then the other two will be in the mortar it's about the best I can do really and this is important as well don't forget to fix that on the back I usually forget and then you have to take it off again and put it back on super easy to fix up you just drill a few holes use the plugs and screws provided they've got these really nice stainless steel screws with these rubber metal with rubber back washers to seal the whole casing make sure the IP rating stays good and my super clips have arrived so I'm just going to clip the armored up most of the way here and start getting it terminated in so these are the Linnaean super clips designed for still wear armored cable between 15 to 18 million get different sizes and basically the instructions say you just drill a 10 mil hole and then you just basically wrap it around the cable and hammer it in so gonna give it a go whoo these are the first time I've used these I've used the smaller versions before for like FP cable and stuff like that but I've never used these big super [Music] all right so I'm nearly there I've got the armored all clipped up as you can see looks fairly nice and neat with those super clips I'm quite pleased with them and they're really super quick to install as well which is nice so now I'm just going to terminate this armored cable into into the charging point and I'm gonna leave a bit of this sheath on just in case later on I have to sort of do any alterations it's going to make it yeah I'm gonna leave plenty of length on this cable as well righty-ho so everything is connected up so we've got the live neutral and CPC connected up now important note from zappy is that you should connect these up with 1.2 Newton meters of torque so it's important that you have a torque screw driver when you're connecting these up my armored cable is just terminated like that in the bottom and then I've clipped it down using these Linnaean super clips all the way long up here through the wall there along and into the wall and then in here I've got my Harvey unit which is basically a wireless energy monitor that monitors the current flowing through the main tails and this is what enables our load limiting so that it never allows the charger to push us over a hundred amps when the vehicle is charging so I've got a pair this Harvey up with the zappy in a minute I've done external earth fault loop impedance testing with the main earth disconnected and all that was fine I've got the reading of 0.2 for that I got an r1 and r2 reading at the charging point of 0.04 so that's perfect and got unearthly impedance reading at the charging point of 0.3 1 so all good there so everything's turned on now and I'm just going to connect the charging point case on start pairing everything up and then we'll be good to go though this little dinner connector just clicks into the back and there we go that tells us that we've got power all right so we're just about done everything is on and working everything's labeled up I've just redone all the labeling with my brother label printer so that's all good and the chart is working I'll show you that outside and here it is the zappy so all sorted nice tethered unit the grid indicator there it's showing my house I'm currently using 0.1 kilowatts of electricity so not a lot and basically if I plug my tester in I'll show you how it works so is my test unit which just checks the polarity and functionality of the actual charging point so I plug it in like that and then I just press this button to activate the internal contactor it does an RCD check and now it says it's charging and I got three red lights which indicates that the polarity is correct on here and then I can plug my fluke multifunction tester into the socket on here and just run the various tests that I need to do to verify that everything is electrically okay and that's it good to go so this is it guys all up and running and I'm super happy with the result I think those super clips look really nice and neat it's just nice to not see their cleats and actually behind the door when the gate is open you can't even see their you can't even see the cable and there it looks pretty neat and discreet so yep very pleased with the result now I've got to do let's go and pick up the car so let me know in the comments what you think and if you want me to do a video about the car itself when it arrives let me know I might even start a separate channel all about Tesla's but I hope you enjoyed this video if you did don't forget to smash a thumbs up and subscribe if you haven't done so already I post lots of videos about EB charging and the life of an electrician and if you get the notification Bell don't miss out thanks for watching and have a great day

Channel: Artisan Electrics

Views: 233,320

Keywords: electric vehicle charger installation, electric vehicle charger installation training, electric vehicle charger, electric vehicle, electric vehicle charging, ev charger installation, ev charger installation uk, rolec ev charger installation, ev charge point installation uk, ev charger, ev charging point installation, ev charging station installation, rolec charger, rolec ev charger, rolec ev charger review, rolec smart charger, earth rod, ev charging station, ev charging uk

Id: 3-HEKqeSrwk

Length: 33min 32sec (2012 seconds)

Published: Thu Jun 11 2020