Installing Bronze Valve Guides Without Machine Tools

hey there welcome back to the channel today we're going to put new bronze valve guides into this head let's get to it [Music] when a head has a lot of miles on it one of the things that wears out is the guide the guide is this hole down here we'll take a look here in a second but it's that the stem of the valve passes down through if you recall when i pulled this apart there was a whole bunch of carbon on the intakes that's due to oil coming down the guide and then baking onto the back of the valve the intakes also have a simpler problem there are a few different ways to check for wear the most accurate way is they make tools that are micrometers specifically for measuring these most guys especially home builders don't have access to something like that and it's not worth spending the money on a tool that is that kind of quality for doing just one or two heads instead we're just going to use a couple of valves and take a look and eyeball it so that hole right there and right there those are the guides this is a valve and this is the stem and quite obviously the stem goes down in there like that now if i lift it up hold it with my finger so that the end of the valve and i'll show you here so if we look right here [Music] i'm going to hold it so that the end of the valve is right here now if i take this valve and move it you can see how much that's rocking that is actually really bad on this one that's got a lot of wear that should be pretty tight tolerance let's take a look at the intakes the intakes aren't as bad on this head so you can see it's moving but just a little bit so this one is worn quite a bit this one is a little the second check we can do is to see if it actually is providing a seal if you take the valve put it down in and again hold the bottom with your finger make a seal with your finger on the other end of the guide and pull you hear that noise let's do that again [Music] so you can tell from the sound that it's generating a vacuum down in there as i pull this up then when i release the air is rushing down into the guide so it's getting enough of a seal between the guide and this stem to prevent air from sucking down in if i try the same thing with this exhaust [Music] it makes a little bit of a pop but not much you can actually feel it on your fingertip as you pull up the valve you can feel it sucking on your fingertip so that's another way to tell if it's not getting vacuum they're really really worn this head basically all of the exhausts are worn to the point they definitely need replacement the intakes yeah they're kind of 50 50. you could probably go with it the reality is if the exhausts and intakes were all about the same this one would probably be just a candidate for new seals and send it okay we know the guides are worn out on this head what are our options the first one the easiest and most expensive is to just take this head over to the machine shop say hey it needs new guides and they'll be happy to take your money and put new guides in now my luck with machine shop slowly hasn't been that great so first of all i don't really want to pay somebody else to do it when i know how to do it myself and second i don't know that i trust anybody else to do it around here so we have two other options first is we can replace the guides ourselves second is you can actually do what's called knurling the guides i have all of the tools to do both a replacement and a knurl today we're just going to do straight replacement primarily because well i need this head to go back into the dart and replacing the guides is a better option knurling is also interesting and i think it's a completely valid repair so i've got a separate head we'll probably do that on another day replacing guides is in theory anyway a real simple thing to do the guide that we saw down here we're going to drill it out and then ream it to a specific size then we take a bronze guide and we press it down in there and then we cut off one of the ends to make it the right length so it's the same length as that and then we're done and you can see i'm trying to rock it in here there is zero play in this i mean that is a nice smooth fit and that's what we want so we're basically going to drill these holes out to the outside diameter well i guess we're going to drill it to a little bit smaller than this then we'll ream it to this diameter and i think it actually reams to about two thousandths undersize so the hole will be two thousand smaller than the outside of this then we're gonna drive this in cut it to length after it's been driven in and then all we have to do is put in the valves so let's see how that works we have here a lyell 59 000 valve guide installer this was made in 1978 so some really old tech but it's still perfectly valid today i've got this on loan from dr torque and to be honest i'm pretty excited about doing this this is going to be a fun job it also has the instructions for the 58 000 which is actually for installing valve seats he doesn't have the tool but i'm on lookout for one if you've got one of these or you know where one is and you're looking to get rid of it let me know down in the comments this is the part we have here though this is this tool set we have some pilots the drill the reamer and then this is our alignment tool this big c clamp looking thing and then we've got some different seats for different types of heads generally speaking the operation is going to look work like this we set this tool up and we use the setup pilot to make sure that we are perfectly in line we're going to use some cups i guess these here and use a cup on one side and we may need one of these then we're going to take this bit run it all the way down through and drill it out so this bit is close to the size of that guide once we've drilled it out we use this reamer this reamer is again about two thousandths smaller than the guide itself so we ream it out then we'll remove this tool and these are some old school ones here this is a driver you basically put the guide in and use this and just hammer it down in you can see how mushroomed out it is so these have been used it's another one have the pneumatic version so at least we can save ourselves a little bit of headache there we'll just drive them in with that once we have them driven in we actually have this tool it's got carbide bits and we'll use one of these so you put this down into the guide and then this cuts it down to length let me just drive this with a drill so let's get this head set up and do a valve so you can see how it all works the first thing we need to do is choose our setup pilot this is the largest one in the set basically you drop it down in the guide and you want the pilot that is as close to tight in this guide as you can get this one is about the same diameter as those valves so it's got a little bit of a play to it but not too bad and this is as close as we've got so this is the pilot we're going to start with next we need the adapter for this end and for down underneath the top adapter has got this 45 cut that's going to fit right down in the seat i want to make sure that it fits in the seat but it's not hitting anywhere up on the head here the lower one i'm using the largest one out of the set and i'll show you how that works you want one that fits all the way down onto the spring seat you want to make sure that it isn't hitting like this seat has a little bit of a land here we don't want it hitting that so we want it all the way onto the seat next we want to open up the c-clamp tool so that it's big enough to fit around the head and we take the cup put it on here and then put it over the guide down at the bottom next we're going to take this drop it in at the top now our pilot is going to go down through the whole setup through the guide and it fits all the way down into a hole down here and then we tighten it up i can get all the crap out of the way make sure that it's seated properly up here this part is really critical this has to be straight or your valve guide that you drill out will not be straight and then the valve won't be straight this needs to be exactly right so double and triple check what you're doing you can see here i'm on the seat check all the way around make sure it's on that spring seat it's not on any casting it's only on a machine surface make sure that the tool isn't impacting the head anywhere make sure that we're fully seated here and that it's fully seated uh this adapter is against the valve seat all right we are now aligned and set up i'm going to swing the head around so that i've got an angle right now we're kind of coming back toward ourselves i'm going to swing it around so that this goes away from us a little easier to see i've swung the head around and i moved the tool from down there to here so we can see it a little better see this is our pilot here it's going through this adapter and it goes into the adapter back at the back okay once we have everything aligned here we have to put in a bushing there are two different bushings with the kit they're different size so we take out the pilot notice this is a little bit loose the shoulder on this pilot only fits through one of these just so it fits through this one it does not fit through this one so we need to use the one that it'll fit through put the bushing all the way in and put our pilot in again this time we have to line it up through everything all right so it's through this bushing through an adapter here through the guide through an adapter at the back and into basically the back side of this tool we now know that it's a straight shot all the way through here so we're going to tighten up this tool the clamp once it's tight we now have to remove this pilot and now we have a hole that goes straight through here that is perfectly aligned next we swap out this bushing take out the larger one and we're going to put in the smaller one the difference here the drill if we look at the smaller one here it's a nice tight fit there's no slop the one that we used was for the pilot it's got a lot of slop so we move to the smaller one [Music] and see our bit goes down in perfect size once we've swapped the bushings we're going to take the drill and put a little tap magic on it for lubrication the tool kit comes with this drive adapter so it's square on this end to go onto the drill hex on this end for our drill itself i've got the drill set to slow speed and now we just drill out this guide now we go back to the larger bushing this one fits the reamer nice and tight again i'll put some cutting fluid on the reamer all right now we can remove the frame and the adapters there will be a lot of chips in here and this adapter was full of chips as well okay so here's our valve guide some guides are asymmetric they're different on each end so look at them if there are spiral cuts on it that's going to be toward us because it's the end that we're going to remove for this kit we cut the valve guide down to size on this side if you're using a large machine tool you actually probably start from the other side so this would go face down on the machine all the machine work and the guide installation would come from the top but since we're doing manual we're coming in from the bottom as i mentioned before the kit comes with a driver that is manual that you just use a hammer for i bought one of these so this is a air version of it it's just going to go into an air hammer the end of this just goes into the guide just like that when you install the guide just give it a light coat of a light oil something like wd-40 works fine as you drive it put your finger on the guide back here so as soon as it reaches the end you want to stop so your finger is the depth gauge all right let's take a look at the other side you can see that guide is right to the top here and we'll take a look in here the guide is sticking out yeah looks like quarter maybe even 3 8 of an inch this direction it's a little hard to get an angle on it that makes it obvious but it's sticking toward us see like i say about a quarter to 3 8 of an inch so that is what we need to trim off next we need to take this spot facer tool and we're going to trim that down to the cast iron there are three pilots of different sizes you want to make sure you find one that fits but it's not too tight that guide has been smashed in a little bit so the diameter is smaller than a valve right now we don't want this getting stuck down in there it doesn't have to be a perfect fit because all we're doing is trimming it it doesn't have to be exactly centered this goes in here you can see it's got a little step here so we want this in there and then we can tighten this down and we're going to use a drill to cut and just keep checking it as you go we're just trying to drive it down to the cast iron it turns out this spot facer the carbides on it are just horribly dull in fact i don't know that they're carbide they might just be high speed steel regardless this thing takes 20 years to do one guide i'm not going to try to do 12 with it the rest of these i'm definitely going to cut shorter with the lathe first then push them in and then trim off like the last 16 of an inch once you've got the guide cut down flush to the cast iron you can go ahead and repeat the process for the rest of the valves just a couple notes on these valve guts this guide is a general purpose guide can be used for a lot of different heads the outside of it is 502 thousandths wide this reamer is 500 thousands so there's a 2 000 interference when you push this in and that's good when you press it in it fits nice and tight you get good uh i guess contact between this guide and the head allows heat to transfer also keeps the guide in place they're also longer than they need to be this one's longer by probably about 3 8 of an inch so i just cut them off on the lathe and put them in the other critical dimension is the inside the inside of this is 374 thousandths so brand new fits on the guide real nicely right there's i can turn the guide but it's real nice and tight fit problem is when you press this into that hole that two thousands has to go somewhere and what happens is it squeezes this in once it's in there's no way to push this stem through the guide it actually shrinks by about two thousandths this hole does so sometimes you might be able to get it in maybe about that far at any rate you can't push it all the way through the guide itself the inside gets kind of shaped like an hourglass so it it's pretty wide at both ends but it tapers in and then back out so you have to ream the inside of this to the size of the guide after you press them in since i'm doing this with pretty much common hand tools i'm just using my milwaukee drill so i need to run the reamer through trying to go up two thousandths with a reamer especially with a hand tool you're just not going to get it it's gonna bind and probably either you know twist your wrist or get stuck in there and then you're gonna have a reamer stuck in the guide that you can't get out so what you do is you enlarge it to 373 so originally it's 374 you push it in and it gets pushed down to about 372 so we ream it out to a 373 and then again to a 374. once you've reamed it out the valve then fits nicely this head needs to be cleaned up there's a whole bunch of chips of cast iron and bronze so this isn't actually assembled i'm just checking for fit but we'll go through get it all cleaned up then lubricate these stems put them in and reassemble that's all there is to it thanks for watching

Channel: Yoshimoshi

Views: 16,459

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Id: Ky4-238Hq3g

Length: 24min 1sec (1441 seconds)

Published: Sun May 01 2022