Installing a Motogadget M-unit on a classic Honda (step-by-step)

what's going on guys welcome back to classic octane i am taylor so today we're working on cb550 shouldn't be a surprise but what we're going to be doing to this bike is upgrading the electrical system so i built this entire bike on the channel a couple of months ago and the new customer bought it and wants the electronics switched over to a moto gadget in unit before they pick it up so that's what we're going to be doing today so we're going to be removing all of the factory wiring which in this case was recently replaced but we're getting rid of that wiring harness a lot of the kind of fuses and flasher relays and a lot of those components and putting it all into an m unit and i'll show you guys exactly what that is if you're not familiar but it's basically going to allow us to add a bunch of functionality as well as clean up and simplify the wiring quite a bit so let's dive into it so before we get started let's do a quick overview of the components we're going to be using part of the system of course is the m unit itself if you're not familiar with what these are it's from a company called moto gadget and basically it's going to replace a lot of our factory components with this super compact solid state know module i guess we'll call it and what that's going to allow us to do is simplify everything and it's also going to add a lot of cool uh kind of customization we can do for example you can change your turn signals to you know flash super rapidly fade in and out slow you know lane switching where you hit the button and it flashes three times and automatically turns off stuff like that it allows you to simplify some of the wiring you can run like a tail light and a brake light off of one wire there's some built-in functionality for like alarms for example it's got an accelerometer in here so if you have this mounted in your bike the bike you know is off and the bike senses that it's moved somebody you know stood it up or knocked it over or whatever it can start to honk the horn flash the lights this is the m unit blue meaning it has bluetooth built in so it can actually bluetooth to your phone i think that alarm functionality can even notify you on your phone that your alarm's going off your bike's been moved the bluetooth also allows you to go through and change a lot of the settings through the app as opposed to the in-minute basic where you have to use a grounded wire to kind of go through here and a little bit more like rudimentary menu system to change the settings you can still do it it's just a little bit harder without being able to use the app so this is also going to simplify the fact that we're not going to have to have all the fuses we have on a stock bike for headlight and signals and all the different systems the relays are built in so if you have a short it will automatically shut the power off for that circuit and it will actually light up a little led next to you know whichever circuit has the short and every time that this is power cycled it will turn it back on so if you're out riding somewhere your you know wire rubs through and develops a short it will shut that circuit off so you're not you know causing any fires or any wires melting or anything like that you can look at the m unit and say oh my left turn signals what shorted go through find the short power cycle your bike and you're right up and running again you don't have to go look through and carry replacement fuses and that kind of stuff so it really does simplify um a lot of the wiring and then also allows you to kind of have some modern functionality in a classic bike we're also going to be utilizing one of revival cycles wiring kits so they sell these on their website i'll throw a link in the description below for both the m unit and their wiring kit i highly recommend this because there is multiple different colors of wire this is also really high quality wire and if you were to buy a spool of every different color and you're talking about hundreds of dollars just for the wire on the bike where you only need you know three feet of wire per color it's kind of silly to buy a whole spool so i go through their wiring kits it comes with you know everything they even have a little instruction sheet of each individual circuit what color wire to use it comes with like a weather pack connector for your main fuse it comes with these little ferrules you can clip onto the ends of the wire that actually go down into the m unit just to add a little bit of uh kind of rigidity to the wire so it's not going to work itself loose over time zip ties heat shrink i mean the whole nine yards to wire up the m unit so i'm really excited to have that it's gonna make it a lot easier instead of you'd be really surprised the amount of bikes i've seen that people have rewired them and every wire on the whole entire bike is red which works but it's a complete nightmare to diagnose if you ever have any problems so having individual colors for each circuit is smart it's exactly how a factory wiring harness would be and that's the idea here is we want this to be oem quality or better so here's a look at the components we're going to be replacing so we'll keep the anti-gravity battery we're going to keep the starter solenoid and we're going to keep this modern voltage regulator rectifier everything else is going to be torn out i think we're going to have to relocate this which is honestly probably a good idea anyway because if i mount it on the bottom of this battery box it's going to get a lot better air flow i haven't had any issues with these overheating inside but you know having a little more airflow over that's not a bad idea and that's also where we can mount our end unit we'll get rid of the flasher relay we'll get rid of this main fuse a lot of this other stuff the whole new wiring harness will be under the gas tank and then what i'm really excited about replacing is the complete spaghetti of wiring that's inside this stock headlight so let me start to pull some of these components off pull the gas tank off actually give us access to all the wiring we'll remove everything we're not going to use and i'll walk you guys through the process of hooking it all up to the m unit got the main wiring harness out the sub harness relay all that kind of stuff so went ahead and kept the starter solenoid in here and right now the voltage regulator is still in here just so i can kind of show you guys the wiring that's left because these are all components we're still going to use still have main ground wire from the frame that's going to be going to the battery really no need for me to replace that we're just going to add probably an additional ground from the battery to the m unit itself but getting ahead of myself there this is the kill wiring we have the wire of course it still runs down to the starter charging system i'll show you guys how to wire this up in a minute using the regulator rectifier up here main harness is gone we just have the ignition switch with our little plug power to our coils two signal wires to our coils and the horn and up in the headlight i yanked out everything we don't need and we just have the core components so of course we have the right side switch that does our kill switch start button and headlight on and off left side switch turn signals high beam low beam and horn and then the wiring to our gauge so the backlight indicator low oil pressure all that kind of stuff is here and then we have the main wire that actually goes to our headlight so that's the core components turn signals too i don't know if i mentioned that for the back this used to have individual turn signals and then a center led the customer requested that i put in one of these led strips in the frame so i did that as well and our wiring for that is right here so that's the main core components that need to stay with the bike now i'm going to move on to relocating this and finding our home for the m unit then we'll just go kind of circuit by circuit and i'll walk you guys through how to hook it up well i changed my mind so i was looking at this configuration here the battery was originally this direction but i figured out if i turn it 90 degrees i can kind of snake it right here in the middle and that gives me just enough room to put the m unit in this front right corner and then i still got my starter solenoid nice and mounted this can stay mounted here still have my strap to hold my battery in place i'll make sure the ground is on this side so that my strap and everything you know won't end up shorting it or anything crazy like that and for the most part this is all the wiring that's going to be in here because our main harness that's going to be coming to and from the m unit will be going straight out again so none of that should run through here with the exception of a couple of these wires i will need to kind of extend and change out the wiring to make everything fit properly but i think i'm going to have just enough room to run it this direction so what i'm going to do is just probably throw some double sided tape or something to hold the m unit in place for now should this configuration work out we'll uh properly mount it to start us off i'm just gonna do the simplest ones first so we'll start with battery connection so we're gonna do a six gauge wire from the positive terminal of the battery to the side of the starter solenoid just like the factory did then we will do another one that's going to come from that same terminal through a 40 amp fuse to our battery lug on the m unit itself that's where we'll util utilize that little uh fuse holder with the weathertight connector that was in that revival kit so first off was gonna do a little six gauge short run right here and then i'll show you guys doing the next one to the m unit we'll move on to the ground side which will be super quick and easy and then we'll move on to the slightly more difficult stuff now we're ready to move on to our battery cable that's going to go from that starter solenoid to the actual power of the m unit itself so we're going to utilize the wire that came in the revival kit this is the 12 gauge wire it's the thickest red wire i already got one in here to kind of show you what it's going to look like but basically cut the length of wire strip you know maybe a quarter of an inch off the end feed it through the bottom of the plug it's going to come out the top just like that straighten out a few of our stray wires then we're going to actually crimp on one of these little connectors and this does require a specialty tool they have just regular kind of plier style tools this one happens to be ratcheting from matco they sell these on the revival kit as well to be able to do this but basically it has two different sections one grabs onto the insulation of the wire the other actually grabs onto the copper on the inside so we'll kind of place this in here like this and we'll be able to put our wire in making sure that everything lines up and then crimp it down so part of it's holding on to the wire part of it's holding on to or the insulation the other part is holding onto the copper give it an extra little run through just to make sure everything's pinched down nice and tight and then we can orientate this the right way just like this pull it back down a little click clicks in place we can slide the little weather connector back up in there as well and that's it this thing is made so our little 40 amp fuse will go right in there and this is just a little clip-on cover keep everything nice and watertight so now we can put little ring terminals on either end again one going to the starter solenoid where we just connected the battery to the other going to the bat or battery lug on the m unit itself now that we got the main fuse in place the next connection we're going to make is our charging wire so out of the voltage regulator rectifier there's this solid red wire this is the 12 volt dc i'm going to call it a charge wire and that's what we need to loop into our positive side of the battery so that we can actually have a functional charging system so luckily this is pretty easy to just depend from this connector i'm gonna cut this blade terminal off switch it out for a ring terminal and it's at the perfect length to wrap around and connect right here to the same connector and then of course that will be fused through this main fuse as well and should act as a really good place to connect into our charging system after that we will move on to i believe the ground side and then we'll start to run some individual circuits so i'm going to go ahead and create myself two ground cables now one from the negative side of the battery to the ground lug on the m unit the other is gonna replace the ground wire that goes right here to this rear engine mount and that's what's the full kind of chassis ground and i'm gonna actually run it up to that same grounding point and then later on i'll show you what i'm gonna do with this grounding lug on the back uh basically gonna give us a nice kind of place to pull universal ground from uh but i'll again i'll get to that later so right now i'm just going to use this six gauge black wire make up two cables to hook to our ground side next wire i'm going to hook up is for our key so the m unit knows when to turn on when to turn off so we're going to need a battery reference so we're going to come right off the battery port here with some more of the red wire that was in the revival kit put a ring terminal on it run that up it's going to follow along with the main harness but right on a 550 the key is right here you could really put the key anywhere on the bike you want you run the wire to it and we're looking to basically have two of these wires connected when the key is in the on position and then disconnect it when it's in the off position so i happen to know just because this is a classic honda and i work on them all the time red is battery in black is switched on power out so basically the red wire i just talked about is going to be connected to yep you guessed it the red wire right here and then just to keep the colors matching we're going to connect a black wire to the black and run it back to our lock input on the m unit to do that i'm actually going to utilize a factory style connector i'll throw a link to these but i like to kind of keep the oe look and feel of the wiring as much as possible just for cleanliness so i have the opposite side you know the female side of this connector i can put new spades in here we're only going to utilize two out of the four and then this will actually just be plug and play click right in there it'll get zip tied out of the way somewhere around here under the gas tank and that'll be just a nice clean way to hook up our key and that will tell the m unit when to turn on we're actually going to be hooking in another wire to that lock position as well but i'll get into that whenever we get into the charging system it's the next morning where we left off i'm not mistaken was key on power so we have power running to one side of our switch when it's in the on position it comes back and it comes out of this black wire so you have a couple of options here but i'm going to tell you what i'm going to do typically this would just go straight into the lock position on the m unit itself which is the very bottom terminal on this left side but i'm going to do something a little bit different because what i need is a really good voltage reference signal for our voltage regulator that's what this black wire is for so this is telling the voltage regulator how much you know voltage is in the system so it can modulate how much is coming out of this red wire and actually charging the whole point of upgrading this with a lithium-ion battery is so that you're not pumping 15 volts into a lithium-ion battery having it overheat they're designed to charge slower than a standard lead acid battery so i want to maintain that for obvious reasons so there's two ways to do this one is the way that i'm going to do it just because i am not sure if there's any voltage drop coming out of the auxiliary outputs on the m unit so there are two or possibly on this unit three outputs for auxiliary which is kind of key on power it puts 12 volts out of that what i don't know is if that's a flat 12 volts or if that's directly battery voltage or if there's any kind of modulation to that and i don't want that interfering with my charging system so i'm going to do straight switched key on 12 volt power using the same black wire how i'm going to do that is using one of these little i'm going to call it a device this is basically just a spot for four wires to go in and it's nice and sealed has a metal bar with a clamp on it on the inside and it just allows you to kind of stick in four stripped wires right in there they're all going to be connected together in a little tight package it's very similar to these wago style ones this is what was sent in the revival wiring kit i actually prefer this style i haven't used it before but this style you can see you can flip up one of these little orange tabs stick your wire in there and close it that's a nice tight connection it also lets you flip it back up and pull that wire out these are like a one-time use once that wire is in there it is very difficult to pull out which is a good thing if you don't need to pull it out if you need to get it out of there you pretty much have to cut it and replace it but these things are super cheap you can buy them for like oh it's like four dollars for like 100 of them so i'm gonna utilize this and basically we'll have black wire into there a black wire into here and then one more black wire that comes out and goes into that lock pin on the m unit itself that will give us nice key on power got the wire from the switch and the wire from the voltage regulator in here this is the little wire that's going to go into the lock thing before i stick it in there you could just stick this right into the m unit that's kind of how it was designed to work but what you can do is like the next step above is use one of these and this is called a ferrule i think i'm pronouncing that right and basically what it is is like a little metal tube with a shoulder on one side that you can slide over the wire just like that and then you use a special crimping tool these are not very expensive revival's got them on their site they're available a bunch of different places and then you can squeeze it what that's going to do is crimp on this little metal connector and that just gives you a much more robust place to stick in here and that way like little vibrations and movements in the wire you're not just holding on to you know eight or ten little copper wires you're holding onto this nice strong piece we'll use a little flat head screwdriver to push down our little green button and stick it in just like that and we can kind of tuck this down out of the way you know we'll do some nice clean up with our wires and zip ties and all that kind of stuff later but just to get it out of the way now so that's it that's got our nice lock button done we can move on to let's go ahead and take care of the rest of the charging system so i'm going to do my best to explain this uh to the best of my knowledge and as clearly as possible so there are one two three four five six seven eight wires coming out of the voltage regulator rectifier so three of them are going straight down to our stator the white and one of the greens originally went down to our field coil both of which are down here on the left side of the engine behind this little case and that's what this main wire coming out of the engine is you can see i've de-penned it to have access to all the wires individually but we have our three yellows and these actually don't really matter what order they're placed in then you have our white and then we have a solid green which is actually just the ground for the field coil so that's how it used to be plugged in through a sub harness the other two wires in this are for our neutral light and our low oil pressure switch so those two switches are here as well we're not going to worry about that for just the next few minutes so what we need to do is have a nice solid ground for both of the green wires coming out of the voltage regulator rectifier and the one going down to the field coil so what i'm going to utilize is another one of these little wire connectors i just talked about we can have these two green ones into here i can you know add a length of wire or figure out how i want to get this green nice and up into the battery box itself and then since this is such an important piece i'm probably going to run a dedicated ground wire straight off one of the grounding lugs on the m unit straight to this as well so we'll have all four of these positions taken up and that'll be a nice straight from the m unit clean ground source for the field coil the voltage regulator rectifier and should work pretty well for us so that'll also give me the opportunity i can probably cut these wires down like you know to a third of their original length and i can just have all the connections kind of live back here that way we don't have tons of unnecessary wires running all over the place after i do that we will work on a way to cleanly extend this plug i'll probably run our white in here as well and we'll run that down utilizing some more of these oe honda style plugs that way it's a nice clean look and we have actual connection from our stator into our voltage regulator i hope all that makes sense um if you have any questions or anything just drop a comment below i'll try to answer as many as i can or of course the guys at revival like i mentioned have tons of tech support and those technical articles available as well voltage regulator rectifier is all set up you can see my little extension harness right here so that little plug plugs into right there we still have our two you know oil pressure and neutral light that need to run up to the gauge to hook up we're going to just do that with a similar style connector to this we'll just do a two-prong you know on one side two on the other side and then we'll run the wire and just have it right here it's going to run up with our main harness which of course is yet to be made that plugs in there this is just an extension to plug right into the harness that was originally with the voltage regulator and then we have our four grounds with a dedicated ground wire that's going to be running to this little ground lug right there that's it to clean it up i do use some of this 3m what do they call it friction tape i've always called it tessa tape t-e-s-a here's a little look at the package but it's just like really good it's kind of a cloth tape it's really high quality you know 3m makes a good product and then it's a nice clean look it looks like a oe kind of wrapped harness something you'd find in a modern car which is obviously what we're going for so the next connection i'm going to go ahead and make is the starter solenoid so this is going to be from the output side to this yellow with a red stripe that's going to actually activate our starter solenoid the black wire in this case is going to be ground so what i'm going to do is actually ground this just straight to this other lug so i'll just put a small ring terminal and it will connect right back there then this i'll pull it off i'll put on one of those little furls ferrules i mean i'm some day i'm going to learn how to pronounce it and then it's just going to actually go right into the start terminal right there we don't even have to make a new wire or anything it's got room to fit and of course that's just for the output we're still going to need the signal from the start button to activate it but we'll move on to that here in just a little bit so i'll knock that out that'll have our starter solenoid wiring done then i think we're ready to actually move up a little further up the bike and i'll show you guys what we're going to do to have uh switched kind of ignition on be able to utilize this factory kill switch because it's a little bit different than what they're going to show you in the m unit manual so i want to show you what's specific to this bike to keep those stock controls so what i want to do is have a nice clean ground all the way to the coils and then into the headlight because if you're not familiar with m units they are ground controlled circuits so what i mean by that is the m unit is looking for a ground signal on every one of these inputs besides that lock that we put this key on power to every other one is looking for a ground so when it sees ground on the left turn signal it knows to send power out of the output to the turn signals and so on so we need a really good clean ground signal and there's a couple of ways to do that what i'm going to do is run off the ground lug of the m unit up to the bolt and the front part of where the coils mount this is where there's a actually a big factory ground so that's going to be a nice place to not only ground the coils but also add an additional frame ground and then i will run a another ground wire from there up into our headlight and that's where we can start to branch the ground out via our little wiring connectors i showed you guys already and that will give us a nice good place to get ground for each individual circuit that we're going to connect from the handlebar switches so right now i'm just going to make like a you know two foot ground wire with basically a eyelet or whatever you want to call it on each side ground lug to this same thing another eyelet from that into the headlight okay we're moving on to the handlebar controls this is the first circuit that is unique to this bike so this is not something you're gonna find in the m-unit manual it's i don't even know that it's in any of the revival manuals either it's a very much specific to this so that's going to be the kill switch that's what's actually going to kill the power 2 arc mission coils to turn the engine off so the way a honda kill switch works it's got three positions the two outermost positions are off which means that circuit is just open there's no connection whatsoever when the switch is in the center that means there's a connection between the two wires and on a factory system what that's doing is taking key on power to one side and then when it's in the center position allowing that key on 12 volts to come out the other side of the switch and go directly into our black with a white stripe there's one on each coil that's giving us power when we break the connection cuts the power to coils cuts spark turns the engine off so far so good except for with an m unit what the m unit is looking for is a ground signal like i mentioned a little while ago to turn off the ignition output to cut that power to the coils with this style switch we can't send ground when the switch is in the off position the only time this switch has any kind of continuity is when it's in the run position so if i just wire this up to the kill input on the m unit it would kill the bike when it's in the run position and it would run when it's in the off position which is the exact opposite of what we want so what i'm going to do to get around that is i'm actually not going to utilize the kill input on the m unit at all i'm going to take the ignition out from the m unit run that up to one side of my kill switch the exact same wire that the factory system would have used when it's on the on position it's then going to transfer that power out of the other wire and run down to our ignition coils so that's a way for us to utilize the factory kill switch going around the kill that's built into the m unit and that's how we're going to do it so i'm going to hook all that up let me show you guys real quick how to determine which wires to hook this up to if you're not familiar with that process so me being super familiar with these bikes i know a lot of these color wires just off the top of my head because i've wired so many bikes but say you have no idea you know which wire you want to connect to option one go to the wiring diagram and you can look that up and it's pretty easy to find but the absolute foolproof method is to use a volt meter we got it on continuity so it'll make a little beep noise whenever there's continuity between these two so we see you guys can hear that beat so we're looking for this is the wires that are running to our ignition our kill switch over here there is a black with a white stripe and that's the exact same color that it is on the coils that should be a good indicator that that's one of the wires we need so i can connect one to that now what we're looking for is the wire that has continuity only when that switch is in the center position so we'll put it in the center position nothing on that one nothing on this one now if we try the solid black we have continuity there so if i do this i can check that it's going to work if i move this kill switch into any other position it should stop put it back in the run position run so what we're going to do is take the ignition out from the m unit run it all the way up to this solid black wire then we can run out of the black with a white stripe go to a t into our two power wires on our coils and that is kill switch done moving on to arguably the most complicated circuit on the bike just because of trying to utilize all the factory switches and not have any switches that don't do what they're supposed to do everything works as it should uh it's a little bit complicated for an m-unit setup so let me try to walk through it as kind of simply as i can it's the headlight circuit that i'm talking about basically with an m unit if you're just wiring it with a momentary button it's nice and simple you hit the button once it turns on the low beam you hit it again high beam click and hold it it will turn off the circuit boom done deal you can also utilize the auxiliary one output to run your tail light your gauge light that kind of stuff as well because the aux 1 stays on depending on you know regardless if it's in high beam or low beam which of course you want your tail light and gauge light to stay on in that scenario we can't use any of that because we have an on off switch on the right side of the bike that would typically turn on and off the headlight on the left side of the bike we have the switch that determines low beam or high beam so we have to do is use kind of one configuration of the m unit and some of the functionality of the stock switches somewhat similar to what we did to the kill switch to make this all work so let me kind of run through everything we're going to utilize the on off switch on the right side of the bike to ground out our light input on the end unit so common ground to one side of the switch other side of the switch straight into the light in on the m unit we're going to utilize a configuration on the m unit which is configuration c that basically is going to say hey when this circuit is grounded turn on our high beam when the circuit is off keep it on low beam we're going to use that functionality to actually turn on and off 12 volt power to our headlight we're not going to care high beam low beam it makes no difference to us basically all we're wanting is when the switch is in the on position our high beam circuit or high beam output of the m unit is 12 volts when the switch is in the off position the high beam output is off that means we can take a wire from the high beam output run it up to the headlight and run it into the brown wire on our high beam low beam switch so this now becomes the input power this is just 12 volt power only 12 volts when the headlight switch is in the on position and then based on if we're in low beam or high beam on the switch it will either send power to the low beam circuit which is the white wire or the high beam circuit which is the blue wire that's what's going to actually get us our high beam low beam switch nothing in the m unit is going to change that all the m unit is doing is seeing ground turning on the high beam circuit not seeing ground turning off the high beam circuit that's the functionality there white is going to be very simple it's going to go straight to our white on our headlight blue is going to split it's going to go to our high beam on the headlight it's also going to go to our high beam indicator in our gauge so that's going to allow us to actually use the gauge indicator light to ride up you know light up blue when the high beam is on speaking of our gauge we will need to have power to the backlight and also power to our tail light only when the headlight is on so we're going to utilize that same 12-volt switch power that's coming in and it's going to basically split again so it's going to come from the high beam output of the m unit and then it's going to part of it's going to go into the input for that switch the other part is going to go into power for the backlight power for the tail light i hope really hope that makes sense it's taken me a little while to figure this out just because of the kind of configuration we're having to use here so i really hope that all makes sense i'll walk you guys through how it works again once everything is hooked up but that's the basis of it last connection on the right side is going to be our kill switch this one's super simple two wires one goes to common ground the other is going to go to our start input on the m unit that's literally it it's grounding it when the button is pushed otherwise it's disconnected nice and simple i'll do that real quick then we'll move over to this side the horn is going to be super simple basically the same setup we just talked about for the start button with the added we're going to need to actually run the power and stuff the outputs to the horn itself but we'll worry about that in a minute and then the turn signal is one that's pretty simple as well but i'll walk you through it because i want to utilize one of my diode kits so that we can retain the turn signal indicator light within the gauge but we'll get to that here in a minute moving on to turn signals now so turn signals three position switch like i mentioned the center pole is basically gonna be the ground and that is the gray wire i just double checked it great is the wire that typically comes from your flasher relay but of course we don't need a flasher relay because it's built into the m unit itself so that's going to go to our common ground circuit and then to keep all the colors matching and stuff i am going to continue to use the orange and the sky blue if i'm not mistaken orange is left side sky blue is right side so the orange and the sky blue are grounded based on which position that turn signal indicator runs to so all we need to do is run two wires to the back to the m unit for one the input for the left side one the input for the right side of course just making sure you get the colors correctly that's what's going to trigger our turn signal circuit then we'll have an output from there i've already run those wires i utilize the wires out of the factory wiring harness to keep all the colors accurate and also because this has a multiple bullet connector end on it the reason why i need more than one is we're going to connect one bullet connector from our turn signal obviously the other one is going to go into our turn signal diode so i do sell these on my website basically power for one side of the turn signals goes into one red power for the other side goes into the other red and then it comes out of the white wire and that's what's going to run up to our turn signal indicator that means the indicator will turn on for both sides without transferring power to the other side i've explained that a bunch of times but basically this is going to allow us to have one led turn signal indicator that flashes regardless of if the left side or right side is on hopefully that all made sense i'm going to run through and hook it all up turn signals are all done next up is going to be the horn and my setup is a little bit different because i'm using clip-ons that are painted which means i had to run a dedicated ground into my switch normally these just ground through the handlebars so if you have a factory you know handlebar your ground button is already going to be grounded on one side and then the lightish lightish green color is going to be a ground signal that's exactly what you need to send to the m unit itself [Music] my scenario like i said is a little bit different so i just ran a dedicated ground wire into the housing grounded it i have that hooked to common ground now everything else is the same so i'll just run this back to the input for the horn button then we'll have an output for the horn which will be power and we'll need to run that up to the power circuit of our horn itself and then ground the other side these horns actually doesn't matter which way is which so i'll ground it probably off of the same stud we use to do our common ground right here and then all i have to do is run that 12 volt power from the horn output of the m unit right to either one of these wires like i mentioned then we're done with all of that and then two things left inside the headlight are our neutral and our low oil pressure light i'll show you guys those in a sec we're on the home stretch here so last thing to do in the headlight is the neutral and oil low oil pressure light so those lights are both controlled by ground circuits uh the ground switches actually in the side of the engine so what we need is a common power which on the end unit there are a couple of options and you can actually program it based on when that power comes on and off so i have it hooked up to the what is it aux 2 or aux 1 let's see aux 2 which is programmed right now to be on anytime the ignition is on so it's basically a key on 12 volts so i have a wire running up i'm using the wago lever nut to create basically a place where i can connect up to five kion power circuits so this could be used to do heated grips or whatever else you would want in the future so i have my power for those two lights going into there now i just need my signal wires so i have a red and a green red's oil pressure green is neutral light and the factory wiring is right next to that connector we we replaced earlier so what i'm going to do is use this little two wire connector and i'm gonna do that back there run the two wires up to here and then there's nothing else we need to hook to the m unit for this it's being switched by you know the switch on the side of the engine moving on we are on to brake light circuit so on this particular bike i have a master cylinder that's got a switch built in so when you pull the front brake it connects it should be pretty simple blade terminal to ground on one blade terminal back towards the end unit we are then going to need to tie that in to one of the wires from the rear brake switch because we want the brake light to come on whether we're using the front or the rear brake so this is going to be the same thing ground on one side tie it into that same wire that's coming from the front and then that's going to run into the input for break and then of course the output is going to go to the brake light i went ahead and did that already i have one of these little integrated led tail lights so it's a little bit different than what you guys are going to have but it's super self-explanatory the outputs are literally left turn signal right turn signal um brake light and then tail light and then there's a ground wire so grounded off the terminal and then it's literally brake tail you know it's it's not a not a huge deal so the tail light is going to run off of the high beam output which if you remember is now basically just our power for the headlight regardless of if it's high beam or low beam so that means any time the headlight's on the taillight's going to be on and then brake and turn signals are exactly you know what you would imagine they would hook up to so hopefully that makes sense i'm going to knock out those two and then we're ready to kind of finalize putting in the actual battery cables and throwing power to this thing i'll show you how to configure the different settings and then we'll cross our fingers and start to test everything should be good to go so we need to change our configuration i'm going to tell you i'm going to walk you through while i'm doing it but it's something that it's going to be a little bit different per setup for your setup so what i'm doing is changing there's all the different programming options i'm not going to go into them right now but it's about how the m unit reacts when you turn the key on yet how the m unit reacts when you set um you know when you hit a button when you double click something there's all those different variations so i need just to change the handlebar controls to configuration c it's like a b c i think maybe d and e so c is going to be the third one down and you use a little indicator light so to do it i hold the horn button down i turn the key on it's going to run through its startup sequence and then i'm in basically the menu settings now so on the left side the number one led is flashing and then on the right side the number three led or the number one led is on i need to click the horn button until we can go and get back to okay number one click and hold now let's see a b c now i'm on the c configuration i click and hold the horn button again now we're back to the main menu i think that's all we need to change so i can turn my key off cycle it now in theory the programming should be what we want we can still adjust things later on and i also need to connect the bluetooth app which you can do all this through the app as well and that's where we can start to change our flasher speeds and set the alarm and all that kind of stuff so turn the key on okay it shows the only thing on right now is our aux 2 which means our neutral and oil light should be on and they are just perfect because obviously low oil pressure with the engine off and we are in neutral um the ignition is on so if we turn the bike yeah okay cool so that should be good let's start to test stuff let's just go left turn signal oh we got left turn signals front and back and the indicator going to the right turn signal got right turn signal in the indicator hold your ears we're going for the horn horn works um okay let's try the headlight so headlight on headlight comes on tail lights on gauges on okay so now if i switch to high beam should switch the ball to high beam and i should get my indicator on as well bulb on high indicator light tail lights still on dope so our headlights and everything work exactly like you would expect them to hit the off switch they turn off tail lights off uh let's go for a brake light check got brake lights there got brake lights there shoot man this thing works uh i don't want to start it right now i'll start it tomorrow but let's make sure it turns over so i'll turn the ignition off hit the start button works like a charm that's it people this thing works one more thing i can't remember if i showed you guys but for the wiring for the points the wire that comes out of the engine is actually long enough to just be kind of zip tied right up the front frame rail here and go right to our yellow and blue right by the coils so you don't actually have to change any of the wiring you just re-route the way that it runs so pretty sweet well that's it guys the m unit is installed so what i'm going to do tomorrow is just clean up all these wires i'm going to zip tie it every couple of inches i'm going to use that 3m cloth tape that i showed you guys wrap it up super nice i just want it to be nice and clean out of the way it's not going to get caught in any linkage anything like that i'm not going to bore you guys with you know zip tying wires together and then we're ready to go so i haven't actually messed around with that app yet so i'm gonna download that so that i can go through when the customer picks this bike up uh this weekend i can show him the app and how to download it and make adjustments and that kind of stuff because there's a lot more functionality to this unit that we haven't gotten into yet i just wanted to get it up and running and usable and then you can have fun with all the tweaks after that so i really hope this helps you guys if you're changing over your classic honda to an m unit and you want to utilize your factory switches there's a couple of reasons why you would keep your factory switches one is if you're trying to keep the bike somewhat aesthetically stock then that's a good way to go also on classic hondas the right switch is part of the throttle assembly the left switch is part is actually where the clutch mounts so you can obviously get you know universal clutch mount universal throttle and change it it's definitely doable it's just you know if you're adding more and more and more expense so this is a good stepping stone if you want to switch your bike to an m unit and then maybe later on change up to different style handlebar buttons the beauty of the m unit is all that programming and everything is constantly you know updatable you can change your setup you can put this on a different bike you can add and remove accessories and all that stuff is easy to kind of plug and play so once you get the main system set up all the rest is gravy so i appreciate you guys watching as always um make sure to go check out the guys at revival if you want to get one of these for yourself and i'll see you guys in the next one you

Channel: Classic Octane

Views: 60,797

Rating: 4.9403391 out of 5

Keywords: Honda, CB550, Cafe, Racer, Build, Project, CB750, CB350, CB360, Yamaha, Motorcycle, Garage. Shop, Update, Triumph, hardtail, bobber, chopper, welding, fab, springer, custom, trail, riding, dual, sport, pit, bike, monkey, Stunt, gloves, cam, burnout, handlebar, stunts, stunting, wheelie, hd, drift, Xv1100, XvS650, Harley, Davidson, motorcycle, review, comparison, scooter, fix, tips, tricks, tools, painting, glueing, soldering, design, fabricating, solution, motovlog, Motogadget, Motogadget munit, m-unit, munit blue, munit install, munit howto

Id: NK0s6AHycdk

Length: 48min 6sec (2886 seconds)

Published: Thu Sep 03 2020