Insta360 Studio 2024: How To Edit & Reframe 360 Videos Like A PRO

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Insta360 Studio is a game changer in its ability  to easily stitch, edit, and reframe captivating   360 videos in just minutes. So, in this ultimate  tutorial, I'll show you how to use it to its full   potential to get the best-looking shots out of the  footage you've already captured. If you want to   learn the technical and creative techniques  behind capturing high-quality 360 videos,   I share my exact five-step framework  for how to do it inside my brand new   360 Video 101 course, which I'll link below. Between Insta360 Studio and 360 Video 101,   you'll have all the essentials you need to  create cinematic 360 videos like a pro. So,   grab your 360 videos, and let's get started! Start by heading to the Insta360 website and   click on "Downloads." Choose the camera you  own, then scroll down to Insta360 Studio,   choose Mac or Windows, and after clicking  download, you'll be prompted to enter the   serial number, which can be found in the internal  menu of your camera. So, go ahead and enter it,   download, and install the software. This software is updated frequently,   so you'll find the latest version on the website.  Also, once installed, it will automatically prompt   you to update. Upon opening Insta360 Studio,  it will prompt you to import your files;   you can either import all automatically or  select a targeted range. In your browser,   choose all the INSV files that you want to import  and stitch, then drag them over to the software.   Now, at this point, you do have the option  to select all your clips and export them   as 360 videos to edit elsewhere. If you want  to do that, just choose "Export Video" here,   and I'd recommend H.265 with a high bitrate. In  this tutorial, though, I want to focus on the   reframing process because this software  can produce some truly amazing results,   and the beauty of it is it's so simple to use. Up at the top left, you can access your files.   The first one is "Local Files," which  are 360 videos stored on your computer   or a hard drive. The next one is the "SD  Card" file straight from your camera. Then,   in this menu, you can save favorites. To save a  favorite, simply click the star icon next to it,   and you'll see your favorites show up  here. Finally, there's the "Export" tab,   and we won't be needing this until later. To choose a clip to work on, just double-click   it on the left-hand side, and it will show up  here in the viewer. This is the main window   where we'll be doing most of the work. While  there are two options here, "Reframe" and "360   View," 360 View isn't really needed since you can  just view your clip in 360 in the editor anyway.   In the menu on the right-hand side, you can find  various stitching and processing options. So,   stabilization will always be turned on by default,  and you want to keep that on to make sure your   shots don't shake. There's "Direction Lock" for  shots you want to keep focusing on one direction   only. However, I would recommend turning this  off and manually keyframing yourself instead.   Then there's the stitching menu. Most shots you  take will be stitched normally unless you're   using a sticky lens guard or dive case. Next is  "Media Processing," and here you can adjust the   colors. So, if you want to increase the intensity  of the saturation and contrast, you can do that   here. There's "Clarity Plus," which is obviously  sharpness. You won't want to go too far with this,   maybe just a little bit if you really want to,  but I'd recommend keeping that off. And then   "Aquavision" is for shots taken underwater. I'd recommend keeping "True Audio" off in   most cases. Sometimes it may help you  improve the quality of a voice, but I   found recording the sound properly to begin with  far outweighs what these filters can do. Next,   you can add a logo to the nadir. So, if you want  to display your camera information at the bottom,   which you probably don't, you can also add a  custom nadir if you have a circular logo you   want to add right there to the bottom. If you recorded GPS data with your clip,   you'll find the "Stats" option appears, and this  allows you to add custom graphics that display   your speed, elevation, direction, distance,  and so on, which will obviously be a great   choice for sports but not for everyday shots like  mine. Next, there's a project management option,   and what this does is it allows you to create  multiple versions of the same clip. So, let's   say you want to edit the first one in a specific  style, like a time-lapse, and then the second one   is just played back at normal speed and reframed  in a different way. You can have two different   variations here without having to undo the first  one. Finally, there's the "Info" tab, and this   displays various information about your clip,  including the resolution, frame rate, and so on.   Now going back to the files section, one  feature worth noting is the "Auto Frame"   option. By clicking this, the software will  automatically try to detect shots that it thinks   could be suitable. However, this software doesn't  have the creativity that you're going to have,   so don't expect miracles. Once it's done, it will  present you with a carousel of potential shots   that could work. So, here it's reframing down  towards me, there's a shot of the Harbor Bridge,   not bad, a shot of two random people walking  behind me. Yeah, these aren't really super good,   are they? So, while there are heaps of options  here, they're seemingly random, just wanting to   track random people, therefore I can't really  recommend Auto Frame at this point in time.   The bottom of Insta360 Studio is your timeline.  So, as the clip progresses, it will move from   left to right. And the first place I always start  before editing a clip is setting the in and out   point. This refers to precisely when the clip  is going to start once you've exported it. So,   to set the in point, you can either drag this  white line across or a shortcut is clicking   this button here, "Mark as trim start." Likewise,  you want to go to the end and by referring to the   thumbnail above the playhead, you can tell roughly  where the good stuff starts and ends. I think   it's going to be about here, so I'll repeat the  process, and this time I'll click the other one,   which is "Mark as trim end." Now, everything  within this white section is our usable footage.   You can adjust the playback volume here, and as  a side note, this isn't the actual clip volume   but rather what plays back as you're editing.  Personally, I like editing in silence, so I   keep it off, but if you're working with sound,  feel free to turn it up. On the right-hand side,   you'll find a magnifying glass plus and minus.  What this does is it increases and decreases the   size of the timeline. So, sometimes when you're  adding a lot of keyframes, it's good to zoom in   close so it becomes easier to edit since you can  see it more clearly. Above that is a full-screen   option if you want to play back your edits in full  screen. Above "Full-Screen" is the snapshot button   if you want to take a high-quality snapshot  of your 360 video and turn it into a photo.   Then above "Snapshot" is aspect ratio, and it's  important to be aware of which aspect ratio you're   editing for. The vast majority of videos will be  16x9, which is suitable for most video players   like YouTube. However, 1:1 has also become more  popular since it provides an equal amount of   horizontal and vertical space. And then, to  take it to the extreme, there's 9:16, which   is fast becoming a popular aspect ratio for really  utilizing big phone screens. I personally wouldn't   bother with 4:3 or 2.35:1 since there aren't many  devices where these aspect ratios will look good.   Now, the most common button you'll be pressing is  the keyframe button. What this does is it saves   the viewpoint that you see on-screen, and clicking  it fixes it in place in your edit. By the way,   to actually manipulate your 360 videos, there  are two ways to do it. The easiest way is just   clicking and dragging, but if you want finer  control, I'd recommend using this menu here,   which will automatically pop up after you've made  a keyframe. This allows you to manually adjust the   pan, the tilt, the roll, the field of view, and  the fisheye. And I find sometimes dragging with   a mouse, you can't quite get the field of  view or the fisheye settings that you like,   which is where I'll move to doing it manually,  so I can make those little one percent tweaks.   There are also some default perspectives  you may want to choose. So, "Default" is a   default point of view. Then there's "Crystal  Ball," I don't know who would ever use this,   but it's there. There's "Tiny Planet," and  if you actually are making tiny planets,   I'd recommend doing it this way by clicking "Tiny  Planet" instead of just going to default mode and   zooming all the way out, because that's when that  crystal ball shows up, whereas "Tiny Planet" mode   fills the sky around the tiny planet. Then  there's "Natural View," which is a bit more   zoomed in. But essentially, these four are just  combinations of all of these settings here.   Now, whenever you make changes to your viewpoint,  and the playhead on the timeline is positioned   over your keyframe, any changes you make here are  going to be automatically saved. So, if you do   make changes further in the timeline, don't forget  to add a new keyframe so it saves that viewpoint   in place. Now, let's try doing some keyframing, so  changing the viewpoint significantly as the video   unfolds. So, right here, I'll be starting with  this one. I've already saved the keyframe. I'm   going to play the video a little bit and stop.  I'm going to create a new keyframe, but this   time I want it to be a tiny planet. I'm going to  move my mouse so it reframes it. Now, when I move   the timeline back, there we go, it's transitioning  from the first viewpoint to the second. From here,   simply repeat the process, adding as many  keyframes as you think works well with your   edit. If you ever want to adjust a keyframe,  just click on it and you can adjust it either   with the mouse or with the manual controls. Now, moving on to transitions. If you click the   line between two keyframes, this brings up a few  transition animation options. So, instead of just   a plain transition from one viewpoint to another,  you can give them a bit more character. There are   four options here to choose from. Personally, I  found "Fade In" and "Fade Out" to look the best,   so definitely play with the transitions to see  what you like best. There's also nothing wrong   with just a plain dissolve, which will transition  between the two viewpoints at a consistent speed.   If you're ever not quite happy with  your edits and you want to start fresh,   you can reset your timeline by going to "Edit" >  "Clear Current Edit Data," and after clicking OK,   there it goes. Everything else in the top menu  isn't really needed since you can get most of   this stuff within the actual editor. Also, if  you close and reopen Insta360 Studio with the   original files from the SD card, the software will  save your previous edits. If you want to make any   changes a bit later, all right, that was a simple  one. Now, let's try something a bit trickier.   Next, what I want to do is have the viewpoint  fixed on me as I walk around. To do that, choose   the "Deep Track" option, and with your mouse,  draw a box around the subject, which here is me.   I'm going to choose "Center the Target" because  I want to be centered in the middle of the frame,   and start tracking. Now, it analyzes the clip to  detect my movements throughout. Playing that back,   it seems to have done a good job. However,  the angle's a bit wide, and that's causing   it to look like it's bumpy. To fix that, click on  the yellow bar, and here we can adjust our field   of view and fisheye. So, clearly, it's just way  too fisheye right now. I'm going to drag that to   zero and change my field of view to a little bit  wider. And there we go, that's looking better.   Now, you can also use this on moving vehicles. So,  let's try tracking this guy here on the bike. I'm   just going to repeat the process with "Deep  Track." I'll select him, center the target,   and start tracking. And this also works on cars,  boats, and most other kinds of vehicles. Now,   when I play that back, the camera is moving  perfectly with him in the center of the frame   from one side of the camera to the other. If you're not happy with the tracking,   just click the yellow bar, and then the trash can  icon to delete and do it again. Or you can simply   manually keyframe the exact same framing using the  keyframing workflow from before. This will require   a bit more work when you're changing directions.  So here, I'm going to add a few keyframes so it   keeps up with my movements. And playing it  back, that is still really smooth. In fact,   that could potentially be better than deep track.  So, every shot will be slightly different, and   you should try tracking based on what produces the  best results. Sometimes it's manually keyframing,   and sometimes deep track will do the trick.  Deep track will be better suited to scenes   where the camera is on a monopod and the  subject is moving around it or near it.   So, here I'm going to select myself the  same way I did before, track the clip,   and then playing it back, you can see the camera  follows me almost as if there was someone here   pointing a camera directly at me. And that's  resulted in much smoother framing. I filmed   this clip on Sydney's Cockatoo Island, which is  an amazing historical backdrop that I use for a   lot of my 360 Video 101 course. Here, I was  filming the exposure section of the course,   where I share my best techniques for  setting exposure manually in order to   achieve perfect dynamic range every single time. So, if that's something you'd like to learn how   to do, I'll link the full course down below. Now,  Insta360 has just added a brand new feature that,   personally, I've been waiting a very long time  for. You know, sometimes when you're reframing,   you're not sure if you've got your shot perfectly  symmetrical. It may look like it while reframing,   but after export, it's slightly to  the left, slightly to the right,   or lacking symmetry in another way. Well,  I'm happy to say that's just changed. Now,   if you navigate to "Window Guides," there are now  four different guides you can choose from to help   you better compose your shot for symmetry. So, you've got a grid line, breaking the shot   up into nine. There's a center point where  the yellow icon represents the dead center   of the frame. Crosshair, which does a similar  thing, except it adds another line vertically   and horizontally. And even a diagonal  crosshair. With these kind of guidelines,   there's no way you won't be able to get perfect  symmetry with every single shot, whether it's   when using a tiny planet perspective or a more  conventional perspective. And don't worry, these   won't show up in your exported videos, and you  can even turn them off by unchecking "Enable."   Now, I'll show you how to make a hyperlapse, and  one of the best features of Insta360 Studio is it   allows you to add artificial motion blur, which  helps enhance the sense of movement and makes   any sped-up shot look epic. Editing a hyperlapse  is super simple. I've started by adding the in   and out points, and now I'm going to choose the  "Time Shift" option. Highlight the entire clip,   and now it prompts you to choose a speed.  Most hyperlapses work well at 16 times,   and as you can see, that's shortened the timeline  quite a bit. The original clip was 2 minutes 29,   and now it's just 8 seconds, and this  will make it much easier to keyframe.   So, I'm going to stay fixed on the bridge for  the first part of it, move the timeline forward,   create another keyframe, move forward again, and  I want this hyperlapse to finish around Luna Park,   which I know is there. So, I'm going to point it  in that direction midway through the clip. So,   repeat the process until you're at your final  destination. Here, I'm adding a little bit of   zoom to make it dramatic. Overall, the less  amount of keyframes you can add, the better,   because this will mean when it's playing  back at 16 times speed, you're not going   to notice those transitions. Whereas if you  had, say, 20 keyframes on the same clip,   if even just one of them is slightly off,  it's going to cause a very obvious bump.   By default, it will add motion blur to your clip.  If you don't want it, just uncheck that. However,   I would strongly recommend including it because  that's what makes this effect so good. Finally,   export your clip to view the  full motion-blurred hyperlapse.   Slow-motion shots have a very similar workflow  and if you are going for a slow-motion effect,   I would strongly advise that you actually shoot  with slow-motion settings to begin with. Here,   you can see I shot it at 100 frames per second,  which will make the motion so much smoother. To   apply it, I'm just going to repeat the  time shift process, although this time,   instead of sliding to the right, I'm going  to slide it to the left to slow it down.   I'd recommend half speed for either 50 or 60 FPS  clips. Or if you really want to go very slow, then   go to one-quarter speed. Let's take a look. There  we go, 100 FPS. I'll set my keyframes, and voila!   If you do want to make last-minute changes to  your clips, one important point to know is that   anything that appears on the timeline, whether  it's keyframes, in and out points, or speed, can   also be adjusted after the fact. So, I can just  drag this out point, I can select this hyperlapse   and drag it across to cover more of the clip,  and you can do the same with your keyframes if   you want to move them up and down the timeline. Now, once you're happy with your reframed clip,   you'll want to hit the button down the bottom  right, which starts the export. In the "Export   Reframe Video" menu, firstly, I'd recommend  choosing the H.265 codec. This will produce higher   quality. Give your clip a name, choose your save  location, I'd recommend 100 megabits a second,   and feel free to type in a custom resolution. I  like shooting and editing in 4K, so I'm choosing   3840x2160 for slow-motion clips like this one. You won't need to change this menu since I've   already slowed it down four times, which  equates to 25 FPS at one-quarter the   speed. Then go ahead and hit export. I hope this video brought you value and   takes your Insta360 footage to the next level.  Insta360 Studio is so powerful and will become   very easy to use once you get the hang of it,  which shouldn't take long. There are, however,   many other workflow aspects you'll need to master  in order to get the viral-worthy reframed 360   videos you are hoping for, like choosing  the right camera gear, camera settings,   the best shooting techniques, creative ideas,  and so much more. Inside my 360 Video 101 course,   I cover all of the essential tips and shortcuts  you'll need for success in all of these areas. So,   if you enjoyed this tutorial and want to learn the  other aspects of making viral-worthy 360 videos,   just follow the link below to enroll in  360 Video 101. I hope to see you there.
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Channel: Ben Claremont
Views: 133,885
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Length: 17min 29sec (1049 seconds)
Published: Tue Aug 01 2023
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