In the Hoop Embroidery: Satin and Merrow Edged Coasters

happy hop day my little hooligans it's chris from socially awkward stitching society coming to you today on our day of the september 2021 food and drink hop this is one of the new designs in the drop today it's a series of wine coasters there are eight different designs and each design gives you a choice of edge treatments of either a bean stitch which is super fast and easy or a little bit more involved the faux marrow or the satin stitched edge i have two ways for you to complete the satin stitched or marrow edge one involves using a pre-cut circle the other is involves cutting it in the hoop and so that's what i'm going to show you today two ways to complete these two finishes so that you can choose which one you think you'd like to use so let's get this bean stitch one out of the way and let you have a look if i can bring this up to the camera at these two different edges the marrow is like what you would see on a patch and then we have the satin stitched edge so because these cover the edges you can use regular fabric or something that might otherwise fray with these edges i do want to caution you that if you're using fabric make sure that you interface it or otherwise stabilize it so it doesn't stretch out of shape especially if you're going to do the pre-cut method that you'll learn today both of these have a clear vinyl overlay and we'll work that in as well to do the pre-cut you need a piece of tearaway stabilizer that will fit in at least a 4x4 hoop and that's how you're going to make and pre-cut the circle front and circle back if you choose the pre-cut method for both methods you're going to need some of the fabric like water soluble stabilizer now some people like to do these patch edges using 100 polyester fabric or something else that you can cut really close with a hot knife around the edges and you could certainly do that but to make this accessible and successful for more people we're going to use the water soluble stabilizer so this is the brand that i've been using it's called h2o and it is you'll see once i get it hooped up it doesn't look like the clear saran wrap kind it looks more like a regular stabilizer but it will dissolve in water so once i stitch on it and cut around the edges of it i can just use a little a damp rag or a toothbrush with a little water on it to get rid of all of the stabilizer around the edges so to create our pre-cut the first thing we need to do is to hoop up a 4x4 hoop with tearaway stabilizer and i've gone ahead and done that and i've run the first stop on the design that is labeled coaster pre-cut in your when you unzip your file you'll see it in there and that just stitches an area that shows me where i want to lay down my vinyl to do the pre-cut so i'm using this cork like vinyl which i got from my punk broidery and i cut it four and a half by four and a half i'm going to just tape it in place right over that circle and you all know me and my tape i get a little carried away because i find it helpful to not have that catch on my machine now if i just stitch on this and cut it out i'm only going to have my front piece so i'm also going to flip it over to the back where i can see the stitching and i am going to tape in place my backing and i am using a felt for this one because these are covered along the edges with the foam marrow or the satin stitch you can if you want use something that frays you just have to be careful that when you're handling pre-cut pieces that they don't get stretched out of shape so i've got this ready to go under the machine i'm going to go give it a stitch and then i'll show you how we cut these out all right i've stitched over the top of this you may be able to see i went ahead and used black thread so i could see the line really clearly for cutting and so i've stitched through the front to the back and now i'm going to just pop these out and this gives me my line that i need to cut on so i've got my i have my duckbilled applique scissors which are really sharp and i'm going to cut on the line this is a little tricky because i'm not right over it it's always the challenge when i'm doing a video for y'all but what i want to do is do my best to cut right on top the line if i'm going to air i'm going to air a little bit toward the inside of the circle because when this um stitches and when it lays the edge down when we're making our coaster that edge is going to fall just beyond that stitch line like a needle's width so we've got a little more room to the inside than to the outside there will be a chance to clean this up in the hoop if i need to so i'm not going to get too stressed out about it but i'm going to just do my best to stay right on that line if you're doing something we've got a new release coming up which will use the same technique and have some straight edges this method can actually save you some time especially if you can use a rotary cutter so it's worth learning it you may find it easier for something like this to just do in the hoops whatever you prefer so there's our backing for one of our coasters here's our front for one of our coasters now the next thing we need is we need some hoops to stitch these out in so i'm going to go get some hoops ready and stitch just the placement stitch on them and i'll be right back all right before we get any farther let's take a look at our color stops i wanted to show you that i've started including these design notes to help you know when it's time to do something with an in the hoop design other than change the thread color so i've already run our first stop which is our position stitch and i've run it on two separate hoops we're going to do one with the pre-cut method and one with the cut in hoop method but the stops are all going to be the same remember that i've already cut my pre-cut pieces using the pre-cut template design that's included in the zip file now i've loaded the coaster design on the machine run the position stitch and it's time to lay our vinyl down so on this one we're going to set aside the backing for right now i'm going to lay down the pre-cut and i'm going to try to get it as perfectly centered as i can as i mentioned if you if you're going to air you want to air toward the inside and this one we want to just barely barely barely be able to see the position stitch under underneath the at the at the very very edge of this pre-cut piece so i think that's fairly good if it protrudes after we're done stitching it in there if it protrudes at all over that stitching line then we'll want to trim it but we'll see how we do with that now for this one we're going to cut it in the hoop so for this one i have a four and a half by four and a half piece of vinyl again the cork look vinyl from my punk broidery in a different color and i'm just going to tape it down like so all right i'm going to go stitch the tack down stitch and then i'll show you how to cut this one out in the hoop all right so we took care of our position stitch we laid our vinyl in and now we have sewn the material stitch or the material applique is what it's labeled it's really a tack down so let me show you what that looks like on the pre-cut on the pre-cut we don't have any trimming to do unless we see it peeking over the edge which i do a little bit there we can pull this tape off now the i wanted to mention something about the stabiler stabilizer i'm using i'm using a water soluble stabilizer because i like to be able to cut right around it and then apply some water and that stabilizer just melts away and gives you that nice finish like you saw on the ones at the beginning of the video and you don't want to this is a very very heavy edge stitch so you don't want to try it um on the thin saran wrap kind of stabilizer and you'll notice i've got a little tape stuck like right there i'm not going to worry about it because that's going to be covered up and let's see if i can get this one [Music] come on nails do your work come on i can get it maybe there we go okay so it doesn't matter if you've got a little bit of tape stuck in there this one now is ready to go before i put do the final stitch on it i'm probably going to come back in fact let me do that right here i'm just going to come back and trim this just a little bit because i can't see that placement stitch and i don't want that poking out through the edge of my satin or faux marrow stitch so i just might have a couple spots like that there's one where i cut a little crooked or didn't quite place it quite right in the placement stitch where i'm going to want to cut it back just a tiny bit so that it does nice job for me yeah maybe right there that's probably okay just as you're looking at it remember that the needle is going to come down just outside of that placement stitch and that's going to be your edge okay i think i i think i'm good i can always decide to do a little more up until the point that we up until the point that we lay down that satin or mirror edge finish so now i'm going to show you this is the cut and hoop version same stop did the same stitch but because i didn't use a pre-cut now i'm going to need to cut around the edge of this okay so the trick with this is to get as close as you can to those tack down strips or sorry tack down stitches and cut back along that material stitch i hit some stitches there it's okay it'll stay in place enough to do what we need and what i'm doing is just pushing my blade as far as i can up there as long as i don't hit a large number of stitches i'll be okay um i actually managed to pull one of these off that had like most of the stitching nipped because i wasn't doing a very good job okay i'm gonna take every so often i just like to get that bulk out of my way and kind of helps for me if i lift it up a little bit it's a little hard for me to see with the camera in the way so make sure you've got this right under you so you can see what you're doing when you're actually doing it and you'll see that i'm cutting it back to the tack down but around the edge you can see that placement stitch which is about where the needle's going to fall it'll fall just outside that when it lays on the pretty edge okay so you can see this takes potentially takes a little bit more time but i'm not sure that it you know by the time you add up hooping and loading the pre-cut i'm not sure that there's a significant difference so it really just does you know whatever whichever way you want to do you can come out with a good finished product okay so that's trimmed down there's a few places where i trimmed it a little tight it's not i'm not too worried about that that's going to be caught inside i cut a little bit on that stitching but that's going to be okay that's going to be caught inside the edge the satin or marrow edge that we put on it so next i have my two circles they're both tacked down and i'm going to stitch all the way from three to seven these are design steps so i'm going to stitch all of these on each coaster and then we'll come back and we'll talk about how to attach the clear vinyl all righty i'm back i have stitched the bottle so we've stitched three four five six and seven and you'll see that in stitching out these two different coasters to show you the two different methods that i have actually used some different colors so there's a lovely red wine and there's a lovely white wine and now we're going to lay the clear vinyl overlay on so one of the things we want to do is make extra sure that we have gotten all of our jump stitches because once that vinyl goes down and we stitch around it if there are thread tails in there they will be there forever let's see here i probably should be grabbing my tweezers okay come on you there's a little fuzzy right there that one will actually be outside where the vinyl stitches that one will be okay i can get it once it's out of the hoop so i've cut two pieces um one for each of these a clear vinyl this is a 16 gauge clear vinyl i think that gauge is the most reliable reliably good for the most designs so that's what i tend to use i'm going to lay it down over the top of the bottle here and when i'm living dangerously i sometimes just kind of plop it in there and then watch it and hold it while the machine goes but i think if i keep doing that one of these days i'm probably going to stitch my finger all right so that's taped down i'm going to go stitch color stop eight now notice that this tells you right here attach clear vinyl and it lets you choose your color choice of what you want that outline of the bottle to be i generally just go ahead and use the skylight 0145 i think a light gray often looks really good when you're trying to emulate the edge of a bottle so i'll leave the color from stop seven in place and i'm gonna go stitch stop eight on both of these coasters okay i have finished stitching color stop eight which attaches the clear vinyl and now i'm gonna show you if you haven't seen um my clear vinyl applique videos before i'll show you how to trim this if you have seen it before you know what you're doing you can just skip on ahead first i'm going to kind of get up in here and get rid of that tail now i like to kind of fold this can be a little tricky because it's out in front of me instead of right with me looking right down on it i like to put the blade on my scissors so that the fat blade is toward the stitching it seems to protect them a little bit better so we don't want to nick the stippling stitching and i just want to get it started and then if your scissors are sharp enough you can just kind of glide along like that and i find that that works best i like to do both ends first i think it just makes it easier makes it less tempting to try to turn corners and anywhere that you trim where you're not going to stitch over which in this design there's no stitching over the top of the vine the clear vinyl you can just kind of get the bulk of it off and then clean it up out of the hoop if that's easier for you but there is going to be lettering here so we want to kind of get this trimmed back and you see i'm not really sawing i'm just sliding and let's do this one more come on there we go all right so i've got that one trimmed i have this one trimmed now you can see we've got two more color stops to go before we hit this number 11 which says material applique that's when we're going to attach our backing so let's go stitch 9 and 10 and then i'll come back and show you how to put on the pre-cut back and the cut in hoop back mission accomplished i have stitched out stops 9 and 10 which are the lettering those are broken into two different stops so that if you want to make them different colors you can if you want to leave them the same color that's fine i did want to let you know that there are a few jumps to cut in between words um but in between the letters because this is such a small font and um i just ran itty bitty stitches that kind of sink into the vinyl disappear so you don't have to cut between every single letter you just want to get these big guys right here and here my janome my janome um who is now named sinead because she's a little bit crazy but she's gives a hell of a performance um sometimes she'll pull that that trim and um there that one looks good sometimes you'll pull that trim other times it gets stuck in the vinyl and leaves a little line like that so i just have to go through and make sure that those are taken care of all right we are ready now for the directions to attach our backing so this is uh the material applique stop up here in the design notes it lets you know that that's when you're going to put your backing in place so this is the one we've been doing as a cut and hoop so i'm gonna flip it over i've got my square and i'm gonna just tape it in place and up at the corners where it won't like get the stitches all embedded and cause more pain okay cutting hoop one ready to go okay pre-cut one flip it over you've got your circle and you're going to do the same thing you did on the back as you did on the front that means i'm probably going to have a couple little places where i want to trim but i'm going to center it in the space as best i can and put a couple little pieces of tape here i find that the tape doesn't always stick super well to the water soluble this fabric water soluble so you kind of got to be gentle when you put it in the machine so you don't peel your tape off and then have your back all over the place so next we're going to go stitch number 11 which is going to tack these down and then come back and inspect and trim them all right we've done our tack down stitch so from the front you won't see much different except that it's added another line around that tack down if i flip it over you can see i've started to cut this this is the cut and hoop one and i wanted to show you that one of the things that can be helpful is you kind of pull it straight up and snug your lower blade down in there it lets you get close without getting too close so i'll lift this up so that you can see hopefully you can see that you can see this the placement stitch right here and that's what you want you don't want any of this protruding over that initial placement stitch that went down on your stabilizer all right so i'll finish cutting that off camera now let me show you what we have for the pre-cut we put our circle on the back just like we had on the front and i had a little moment where i forgot to put it back on the tack down stop i'm going to pull that off felt is a little funny with this tape you could try using some spray adhesive to hold these down i think it works okay on the fabric type water soluble but i have heard from others do not try to use it on the plastic type ever because it melts it but i just use tape because it's quicker for me and i don't like breathing that stuff so i rarely use it okay come here you bugger okay man all right there we go good enough for government work okay so this one looks pretty ready to go i'm looking at it here and i'm seeing that placement stitch is visible almost all the way around i don't think i have any areas i need to trim except maybe right in here so i'm just going to come in try not to cut the stabilizer cutting other things not a big deal won't be the end of your world you cut a hole too big a hole in your stabilizer then you're going to have to try to patch it and harsh words are said and nobody better come in because you're stressed already it's like when someone tries to talk to you while you're holding a seam ripper okay i think that's going to be okay i can see that just tipping it a little bit i can see that position stitch all the way around the edge i'm going to trim this little thread here that got out to the side and this because i don't want to try to trim those once i've laid down my satin stitch i'm going to do both of these in the satin but this is exactly the same process if you're going to do the marrow edge all right i think we're ready to go oh look there's a thread all right i'm going to go stitch these edges and when i come back i'll show you how to cut these out and get rid of the extra stabilizer and hold the phone i forgot to tell you something important before i go stitch these out you will want to if you want to have something other than white bobbin thread or black bobbin thread whatever you're using on the bottom you are going to want to fill a bobbin with the same color thread that you're using on top and i highly recommend that so that you don't see little bits of white peeking out so i'm going to do this one in the green color so i'm going to wind a green bobbin and i'm going to do this one in the kind of goldish tan color and so i'm going to wind a bobbin in that and i'm going to pop that in when i'm doing them so that i match on both sides all right i've pulled this out of the hoop for a minute just to show you something that will help you out when you're doing the satin finish and i think i'm going to do i'll add a little clip of what this looks like for the marrow finish as well this is halfway through stitching that last color stop this is the underlay that goes under the satin stitch and if you look closely you can see that the outside of the underlay is falling right where that placement right outside that placement stitch right outside of my vinyl and the inside is catching all along here adequately so that's one way you can tell if you're gonna if you're if your edge stitch is going to grab grab well enough and to make sure that you don't have anything poking out if you have something poking out beyond this underlay you want to try to trim it now because if you don't when it comes back through and stitches the final thing you'll have a little bumpy there so let's look at the back and the back's pretty good i've got a little bit of of the edge stitching showing here from but i think once that's done stitching i don't think that that's going to be an issue it'll probably pull right off once i have the water soluble gone so i'm gonna go finish stitching this and then i am going to throw a marrow edge on there so you can see what that underlay looks like and what it should look like when you're in the middle of that last stop all right i promised i would show an example of what the underlay looks like for the marrow the faux marrow stitch and this is it so again you can see that the stitching is covering the edge entirely there's no bits of edge poking out and that's how you know that you've got a good alignment and that it's going to stitch well and same thing on the back you've got a good alignment all the way around on the marrow stitch it comes in a little farther than the satin so if you have a little bit of this tack down stitch showing that's nothing to worry about all right both of these are stitched out i've already cut one of them out so you can see i just trimmed as close as i could around the edge and leaving just a little bit of that water soluble stabilizer in place pop this one out and we'll do the same thing and it doesn't have to be pretty because that's all going to get dissolved away so i'm just going to cut i'd rather leave a little extra than cut my stitches because then that would make me sad actually i would probably say bad things okay let's see here here we go around the edge so you can see these came out pretty much identically and really the only difference is that um when you are um when you're putting them together that you've already cut the pieces so you don't have to sit there and cut them all out so i'm going to bring this plate over here and show you how i get rid of the rest of the water soluble stabilizer my weapon a toothbrush you can dunk these all the way but it takes a while for them to dry and you don't want to do this on your cutting matter anywhere because this stuff gets kind of sticky as it dissolves so i'm just going to kind of wet it down oop i got a little loose thread there i got to deal with did not quite tie off properly okay i know it's probably kind of hard to see i should have probably gotten a different color plate but we tend to use white plates in my house all right you can let it sit for a second and dissolve eat more if you want this is the same thing you would do if you were making a patch with water soluble stabilizer all right so there that's all gone i'm gonna come through and trim these funky little threads here i'll probably use my curved scissors and do a little better job of it there we go i think they're over oh no there they are all right so just clip any weird little thing that's sticking out there if you have any placement stitch showing etc all right and there is your finished coaster just lay these somewhere to dry and they'll be good to go so if you like this video give me a thumbs up and please subscribe to our channel you can see our designs at our etsy shop which is below in the link and i'd encourage you to join our facebook group where we have a heck of a lot of fun and we're specials and discounts and new designs are always posted have a great day and thanks for watching

Channel: Socially Awkward Stitching Society

Views: 186

Keywords: machine embroidery, in the hoop, coasters, water soluble stabilizers, statin stitch, clear vinyl applique, embroidery how-to, vinyl embroidery, wine embroidery

Id: j8DmfvKoLKs

Length: 30min 57sec (1857 seconds)

Published: Sat Sep 11 2021