Image Prep basics 1

this conference will now be recorded there we go all right sorry didn't mean to break your flow no not a problem i will just keep to um so yeah so if you're looking for photos either online or on facebook um it's best to get the original if you can um all the time somebody that sends you a picture and it's going to be a screenshot sure they took that is a screenshot of another screenshot um you know if you can get the original picture basically you have a lot more information there to to to make it look better um you know you don't the ones on facebook you can use it um just just try to download it don't take a screenshot of it yeah and also don't let anyone text you one because when you get one through a sms service or mms service uh it compresses it like completely and there may be some settings in there but i've had a lot of people that say well they texted it to me from their phone um and that's that's usually not the best way to go on that too so keep that in mind too all right and chris i gave you presenter rights i don't know if you want to drive and show him or whether we want dave to walk through and we'll just kind of watch and stuff like that however sure let me how do i do this are we going to use my screen um i suppose that would be the best thing um and that way you can have you know present better without having that lag and stuff trying to regain control of of um of his screen and that kind of stuff so that may be the best thing and that way we can kind of see what's happening all right and you guys can see that now right yeah yeah and i may pop out just for a second because uh i gotta start my grill i'm multitasking let me shrink this right here how do we get completely gone all right i i think i feel better now um i wonder yeah now i have to i think i just have to record it now um i think it's it's still recording yeah it's okay let's do it yeah we're good all right all right good all right so let me find a photo to pull in here for you and and i'm on a mac so you know depending on what you use um just know that's that's what i'm on now dave do you do more like um logos and clip art and that kind of thing are you talking about a full-blown photo a full-blown photo for like a memorial or something i got you okay well that is one of my specialty so i will uh actually i have photo edits here so these are these are completed and the editing process is a whole different other ball game um but i can i can bring those in and i can show you exactly what i did to them um i can also bring them in i can also open up photoshop what what photo editing program are you using i've got coreldraw okay everything should transfer over um i like photoshop better um i find it easier some some uh things in the laser engraving institute uh from mark stypo and uh he he because he specializes in coreldraw so i actually have those steps you know to convert it to grayscale and do the unsharp mask and and all that stuff so i've got some resources for him if he's using corel that may parallel what you're going to talk about i mean i can get whatever i mean whichever one better i mean i'm that's just what i i researched that was really what kept coming up was carell draw well it's like chris the process will kind of be the same they may call it different things in the programs there may be slightly different workflows but at the end of the day you're doing the same things to the images no matter what program you're using so right is photoshop you think it's fairly easier or better i i like it better i've used everything um even some uh other i think it's a is also like a mixture of the two um and cheaper supposedly i like photoshop i found it to be easy i found a ton of resources but there's a lot out there for corel as well yeah um they'll all do it so yeah exactly um all right if i can go back and open up the other one as well so here i'm gonna go back and forth between these two photos and and this is these might not be the best ones but this is what i and removing sounds is going to be huge especially if you're doing some type of memorial because the focus isn't the background the focus is obviously going going to be the face and when you starting um to compensate for these to light areas um you end up losing the features that you want and then when you compensate for features you end up at the background so the best thing to do is get rid of the background um the the other huge part of this is making sure that shading like she's her face is really light his is kind of dark um so those are things you need to think about when you're looking at it this is what we ended up with and i think i even did a little bit more editing because her face was still really bright and and there's some some stuff in light burn that you can do as well and i'll show you those um but the the biggest thing that i find to help with with photo engraving is going to be the sharpness um it is going to bring like you can see these little white blotches in his in his face or in his hair yeah even hers she has nice little streaks she has streaks um you're gonna get definite white lines um around most of the edges and and that's huge because and it looks silly like you wouldn't print this ever it would just look horrible as a print um especially the photo that i have up here and this kind of looks cartoony it looks like somebody drew it as a mugshot photo um but if you're making a memorial you need it to be flat and and consistent throughout so you're not trying to compensate for the shadowing on one side of the face and uh you know the lightness of other parts so you end up having very variations of power and and that basically the the laser makes dots so you're going to have a concentration of dots that just blow out the photo but the um the biggest thing like i said is one getting rid of the background two sharpness is huge making all of those edges pop because that's what you're going to be engraving and feel free to ask any questions you you want as we go so you just trace out the outline of of the what you want to cut out of the background um yes and no um let me see so on on this one here there's a couple different options on photoshop um i can use a magic eraser and i can adjust my tolerance so if i did 80 percent right now or i'm not sure what the tolerance to me i don't think it's 80 uh you can see that everything's gone if i adjust that down to a five i'm going to remove basically a tolerance of colors um and it tries to find the edges uh i find that a quick way to do it if they have you know a solid background um guy or something like that where there's more contrast maybe yeah exactly where there's a lot there's a ton of contrast it's really helpful um otherwise you can use a background eraser tool and you can set it to find the edges so it will try really really hard like you can see it's kind of fading into her arm and you can adjust that it can be it could be set up i think i have it as a feather right now so you can actually set it up as a different uh the hardness you can change it so it's not as feathered but yeah i would i would do you know i would typically go through any any race all the edges and it's the same way in corel um i think you have a cutout tool which is a little bit different um but yeah or something yeah you got to draw a line and then you select the part that you want on the inside um yeah so it's a little bit different but works similar the another huge thing when you're doing this um i learned this the hard way a long time ago is is make sure you keep on clicking the button because if you erase a whole bunch of stuff and you mess up and you go into his face and you and you do uh i can't do back what can i do back i'm limited to my uh oh there we go yeah if you go back i just erased all that other stuff that i did so i do small incrementals so when i do go back it's all if i do make a mistake i can go back quickly and just fix that one part real quick yeah and how are you going back um i'm using my mouse button i i have a smart mouse button so i have forward back buttons like i can i can redo it i can go back um yeah and i can program what i want my mouse to do so control z is typically the undo you know you can back up in most programs by using control z or finding it in the menu all right yeah you can you can definitely go through the menu and and you know edit undo erase uh like he said usually um yeah command z on mine uh but it would tell you right next to it okay yeah on windows it's usually control z so let me close out of this so what you start with removing the background um sharpness is huge and i'll show you this one's a really bad example so all right it will take a lot of work to get it to where we want let's see yeah actually this is a good one where you can you can even see in the thumbnail the amount yeah lines that he has in his beard everything's over exaggerated almost yeah yeah and like i said you you're not thinking of it in terms of man i'm gonna print this it needs to be good quality no i i need the laser to see these highlights and draw to them you know the laser sees whites and and blacks and that's all it knows um but you know unless you're unless you're running grayscale then it's going to do a variation but you know typically with photos you're going to be whites and blacks and you you still even if you're doing a grayscale you still want to focus on those details let me go up to filter sharpen unmask sharpen there's usually two types there's a smart sharpen and a unsharp mask i'm just gonna raise this up a little bit and whatever you're using go in and max these out you know maximal see exactly what they do find out where you need to be and your thresholds um for for looking ridiculous and then getting the objective you want um but you can see that i'm starting to get some of these lines in here in his face um or in his beard definitely high high contrast dimple you know that's this is a mother daughter he's gonna know mom's mom always had that dimple when she smiled so i want that to be pronounced i want that to really show but then her you know her hair's blown out too so yeah i would still remove all of this background i would try to get some of her hair back in fact on the one that i did of her yeah and you can see like i said you're not going to print that it looks silly but when you go to engrave it it looks it looks really good um the edge of it leave it in color do you leave it in color before you print it out i mean uh engrave it yeah i i do only because uh one it's an extra step that's not needed because light burn does it all for you um okay lightbring's gonna lightbring's gonna resample it lightbring's gonna turn it to grayscale um the old method you had to match your dpi you had to consider all these different things when you brought it over to the program that you were using to create the uh dither pattern or to prep it for uh engraving with with light burn you don't have to you bring it in you drop it in there um i bring if these photos are going on something significant that's painted or you know a painted tile uh acrylic um a painted tumbler if you're going on something like that i'm usually bringing in as high resolution as i can now if you're doing granite you have to approach granite as a completely different animal um it is very very finicky david what medium are you um looking at i know you probably do a lot but is there a focus you know on on what material you're wanting to do the photos on mainly wood marbling granite and some acrylic okay okay okay so when when i bring this over and i know i'm not doing it on granite i'm i'm bringing it over as almost a thousand six hundred to a thousand dpi um and that that really goes against the norm of what you would probably be taught but in talking with jason and knowing that jason the guy that created lightburn knowing that his software does all the resampling for you when you send it to the machine basically i'm just giving it as much information as i can to create those dot patterns so i'm getting more detail if that makes any sense yeah what uh what dpi would you run your laser on something like this that also depends on what the medium uh it depends on the process you're choosing it depends on your wattage and it depends on your your your um lens so all those factors come into play okay what uh what what laser do you have i have a nova 51 130 watt okay 130 watt um did you end up getting the um the high resolution lens yet yes okay yes so basically you're working with the beam size 130 watt has a huge beam size we need to shrink that down as small as possible so using the the high resolution head will actually help you run a little bit higher dpi but you're going to be limited to lower dpis i would probably be running somewhere in the 200 range [Music] and with um let me go into some of the processes here and i'll show you shape properties uh let's see let's stay up so over here we have all of our different um our different processes uh threshold and i'll click out of it and show you exactly what it's going to do it's basically going to see the lights and the darks and and that's it um i think i have it on negative two so let's undo negative and you don't have to turn it to a negative outside of light burn either you can just keep it color bring it right on over uh you can negative it right here so if you're going on granite then obviously you're going to want to make it negative if you're using uh let's see acrylic or a tile that's painted black like a white tile that's painted black and you're pulling the paint off um you know you can do all of your negative stuff right there threshold and we'll move down ordered and just go through some of what these do and don't get scared when you see this you see just an outline uh typically typically the the resolution of it and the dot pattern is very very difficult to see and the computer cannot reproduce it until you zoom in you just can't it just can't see it so on ordered it's creating all of these dot patterns and that's what you're going to be looking for you know you zoom in and see how how bad how how good of a dot pattern it has created there really isn't a lot of thought process into into these i stick with about three different processes i'm always between usually dither jarvis and halftone halftone's my favorite for high detail on everything except for granite but you also have to run a much higher dpi uh grayscale is great it works um the only issue yeah it's it's a little finicky that's that's the one that i need to practice on the most i think because you got to really hold your mouth right [Laughter] yeah grayscale the biggest thing with grayscale is not overpowering because then you're going to get a three-dimensional so if you had like an stl file for um a cnc machine uh where actually i might even have one here that i could show you yeah yeah yeah you can do a grayscale deep engraving for a three-dimensional and that's where this would come in really handy um but it does do a really good job at photos as well it's people mess up with the minimum power um quite often and you have to have that right below your fire point um i think now it your min power is your whites and your max power is your blacks or darks and everything else in between it's going to be fluctuating the tube power um to to engrave the photo so as long as you have those those set within a good threshold it's going to do a good job but people tend to either run that too high and they get a completely black image or they're also wiping out all the detail by running a high dpi but my favorite is our newest option which is halftone [Music] you can run this on granite but you have to turn down the cells per inch and also the dpi um but i i i stick with uh dither or stucky um the cells per inch 200 is your maximum unless he's changed it no he hasn't uh so you're fitting 200 dots in a one inch square um the the angle the half tone angle is the way that it lays the dots down um two point or 22.5 you're trying to confuse the eye not to see it not to see that angle um and 22.5 i think is the industry standard for newspapers and a fine print so you don't get that you you can't see the scan direction basically that's what that's for right to throw off that that horizontal banding or the illusion of it yeah all right but this i mean you can obviously see that this has some incredible detail um and actually i can i can show you once this loads back up again yeah i kind of forced jason to bump it up to 200 so if we went down to 100 and you can get some really cool effects with it too sorry my computer's taking so long damn max hey those are good they're good i'm not a mac guy but i like them okay yeah there is a pretty good difference there you can see a little bit of that moire effect or whatever is going on there you can see that right a little yeah yeah is that what you want um not really you you kind of wanna yeah that'll show up and you don't want that and that's why i maximize my um my cells per inch uh the other one that you will be using quite often would be probably these three actually one two three four these are all i would say almost the same it's just a slightly different dot pattern as you can see in the the description below they are all very very similar and i can actually get and get the same quality out of all four of them um as long as my image is good when i bring it in but i typically stick with dither for granite or jarvis and jarvis works really really well for a lot of a lot of photos and a lot of different mediums or substrates come on and make sure you have your shade according to power on too that'll help you see especially if you're dealing with grayscale it'll let you know right away that you've messed up that minimum power right and you want your minimum power on zero right zero or just before um just before the tube turns on um or we're right at the turn on point um brian what is it on a 132 and it's got to be like what 11 12 percent you must have dipped yeah yeah so i know with my old laser um anything under 11 the tube wouldn't um wouldn't fire um the new the new one my um my new thunder will actually fire at about eight which is really nice um and i think my 40 watt lasers they will fire close to four wow and it's just it's just the you know all that you have to excite all that gas to make the laser work and there's just so much of it in a larger tube that you you know the minimum is just limited right um yeah so those are the the basics of of the photos and where everything is located um i'm trying to think of something that we can go through so you can i don't want to do a complete start to finish but if you let's see if i can just grab let me uh google here ph um just do a black and let's say hi claw yeah i'm new to all this laser i've just now got i got it in a couple months ago but i'm just now having time to where i can actually play with it and start doing things yeah and and i would start with some good i got a lot of people that's wanting stuff done now but you're not funny what yeah um so if we pick a picture of let's say we need to do a picture of this dog here so right here you see the resolution yeah always pay attention to that right you do not want to be downloading some like even that's kind of low i mean it looks like it would be really good uh but it's still kind of low to me you know i would say anything 600 to 2000 um you're probably going to be safe let me right click this copy image paste yeah and you can see that it's you know it's kind of pixelated but it would probably still work um so if you're going to be just dragging photos in and not doing a whole lot of external editing you still have some stuff here that you can work with uh we do have gamma we do have contrast i don't know if it's going to react well or not with uh you said turn the contrast up pretty high right uh yeah if you if you can as long as you're not um losing a lot of yeah losing a lot of detail let me see here so i don't know why he named it enhanced radius it's actually sharpen but if we can get his whiskers to stand out those white whiskers or hair follicles that's usually [Music] when you know you're going the right direction and like i said it it's going to look a little ridiculous as if you wanted to print it but we're not printing we're we're asking the laser to to lay these little lines down there you know he's 90. so we have you know we've got more edges more more details um and that's really what you're looking for and this would this would probably do just fine on a on an engrave let me see here and then whenever whenever you're engraving a photograph like on a saved marble or something do you run the speeds lower because i've noticed that the lower the speed the more detail i've put in some of the things that i've done there's some things there's a couple things when i first started that tried to print it off or tried to laser it and half the picture didn't didn't it didn't engrave it and uh i mean slowing it down and then more and more come in is this the same way with grant on granite yeah granite granite is super picky um you know and and there's there is a small window between engraving on it well and then blowing it out and and basically i call it freckling because you start to have these gray and and black blotches in the white area um and it's it's literally percentages it's one even even a half a percent and you'll be on the money with granite um so yeah keep your keep your speed slow and i almost think of it like like a hose so if you had a hose and you're trying to spray something you usually hold it straight at it well if you started wiggling it back and forth now you're making the water coming out of it is following that curve so it's like an s now right a snake yeah so the faster the faster you go that that beam of light can't keep up um there there is limitations in a photo and in a vector you may not even notice it so if you're doing somebody's logo you can go as fast as you want it has a predetermined on and off point um with a photo it's trying to lay all these little tiny tiny dots and the faster you go and there's more more dots that you miss the uh you know the less quality you have and then also dpi actually let's use this as the example um i'm going to zoom in really really far so as you can see it i mean you have lines and then points where it turns on and off so if your dpi is really close you can erase the top and and the line the bottom line that you just laid down so having the right deep dpi is huge because you don't want to go through and start erasing stuff and on on granite it's you're very very limited to the dpi that you can run usually it's it's about 125 to 300 max depending on you know your power settings your your lens you might be stuck with 130 watt tube you might be stuck in the uh the lower scale like you know 125 to 200 maybe dpi with that with the high resolution lens on granite but you get the concept of of the dpi and overlapping of the lines and um and you know where all this stuff is now right and yeah a lot of it i didn't there's a few things i've seen that i didn't realize was there like that image mode stuff i had never messed with any of that yeah and like i said there's really you're going to find your favorites and that's all you're going to use um huge thing is your scan angle now you see mine's at 180 typical at zero uh if you're doing a portrait of a person um it's starting at the bottom of the person and usually you have a torso and then you're working up and then eventually the most important the most important part are the hairs the hair and the eyes you know those are the parts that you want to really pop and show well i flip mine i do 180 so now it's starting up top i instantly see if my hair is good and then you know my forehead and then the eyes and eyebrows so so if it's bad i can stop and reset it or um yeah don't waste all that time how new are you to your machine uh real really new okay so so on on the rudia controller you can actually live adjust so as it's going you can actually hit your speed or your power and bring it up and down um the speed you're not going to typically mess with so if you set it at 10 speed stick with that only go in and change you know one one aspect of it so if you notice that you're doing granite and you're barely getting any results well you could fine fine-tune that while it's engraving and then next time yeah it's very helpful so it it's engraving it's doing its thing you're like man i wish i'd set that at 12 power well hit the power button the the max power button and go in there and change it you know up 0.2 or you know 0.5 and then see how it does and if it's not doing it well and you know do it again so if you run you know one or two images like that you could probably find your setting really really quick and then you're not messing around brian do you do you know uh the 130 watt do you know where that fire is at uh like not exactly 11 supposing the lower the lower cap is set to seven percent you know so zero percent on light burn i think is seven percent technically you know of course really it's just a metric so we don't need to call it get caught up in that rabbit hole um right but um i've got some charts uh and they vary just a little bit but not by much i mean they you know they've they've got it dialed in pretty good let me let me pull one of those up real quick and see if i can get some info on that so the other machine that i had prior to owning um a thunder the the power supply was a generic power supply and uh who knows i don't know what the tube was and it would not fire like i said anything below 11 or 12. and that was just 100 watt now my 100 watt on my 51 i'm easily at like he said right around seven or eight and that's just because in my opinion it's it's got a better power supply it's able to excite the gases in that tube at a lower level um and work yeah um i've got data on the 100 watt tubes um and they fire about 1.7 percent yes that's pretty damn good and 1.7 uh adam that's an 80 watt machine and it was at 1.7 so that that may be pretty close which would equate to about eight eight percent of total total power supply you know output so or you know but they try to get the striking voltage you know set to the minimum that's that's why they do that lower cap that so that are within the range of the between this you know the striking voltage and and and your max you know without going over so that's where they get those values from uh that they cap them in the if you run them a lot of low wattages like that will it damage your tube no if you just want a lot no it won't i mean really the damage from the tube is from over driving it because that uh co2 tube uh you know has that plasma arc that runs from the electrode to the cathode and uh it it sputters that metal uh it's tantalum or something or whatever that alloy is that they use for the electrodes um and it actually sputters and causes those metal you know that metal molecules to come off and and get uh that deposited on the uh inside of the laser tube where the pumping chamber is and that's typically what ends up making a tube fail because it throws the gas out of whack and all kinds of stuff but uh running it slow there's no real adverse effects it's kind of like you know if you drive your car hard you're gonna tear it up quicker but if you're easy on it it'll last long you know same same same basic you know uh philosophy applies with the tubes so okay i know on like variable frequency drives and motors and stuff once you get below certain for 15 percent on a drive or 15 hertz whatever i know it'll damage actually damage and electric mode i didn't know if it's the same on a laser right right yeah no it doesn't suffer from any of those uh kinds of things so yeah you can run them low it won't hurt a thing matter of fact when i engrave acrylic i'm as low as i can possibly get that in glass because it takes very little power to do those you know for edge you know for for surface engraving i do a lot of edge lit acrylic you know so i don't do a lot of deep engraving on acrylic i just barely barely uh mark the surface so that's that's some of the stuff i want to do what else we got now you can see that there's a lot of lines all through here i ended up using like an oil paint um feature uh brush on the uh on photoshop and i use that quite often [Music] for memorial stuff basically to flatten out let's see i think i use it and if somebody gives you a really bad picture you can use it as well uh you can really make it pop i don't have the original of this here but this was a horrible photo and it's hard to tell but i use that oil paint and then sharpening and then the oil paint again and um you know and i would drag out some of these lines to make them more defined make them darker not like i'm trying to make him look older but you know i ended up having to add little whites of the eyes in and and that's all stuff that you need to look at like if you're doing a memorial you typically don't have a choice of of what you're getting um and you're just gonna have to try to make it look the best that you can uh you know lightening of the teeth so that that they're not the same power level or the same whiteness as the face because then it all just starts to blend together you want some of those features to really be pronounced no i'm all yours man whatever questions you have and whatever way you want to take this i know i ran my mouth quite a bit it takes me everything that's good yeah so shape properties it's only going to work if you're selected on the photo um anything that has the background removed like this is um this has a transparency the transparency will not enhance radius so make sure all of that is done and you're happy with it prior to bringing it in here um but a standard photo will work fine it's once you remove the background and export it as a png that's another thing i i save all of my photos as pngs what was that so you get that alpha layer transparency yeah yeah typically if you if you export it as a jpeg or a bmp it's going to add a background to it for the most part um and and it's not it's not always lossless with the png you can resize it however you want and it's not going to lose quality um and you also don't want you know if you're putting it on acrylic and you just spent all that time removing that background you don't want to export it with a white box because then now when you go to negative it it's going to engrave that white box and you just defeated the whole purpose uh so png's are typically the the better format to use for these cool does that david or does that confuse you more because it kind of confused me more well it helped me slow man confused or something but i mean i gotta i need to play with it and yeah that's a lot of what yeah that's a lot of it is just trial and error and seeing what they actually do and that's that's where i haven't had the time to get in there and dig you know and just play you know and start changing settings and see what it actually does you know um and that's there's programs and and things like that that'll prepare them for you i've used them uh and there's all kinds of stuff and those are great for people and and you know if you want to use those that's good but eventually it's good to get you know uh intimately familiar with these settings so that you know what they do and you can do it to any image and you won't have to rely on some preset you know what i mean so yeah yeah and and it's heavily dependent on on what you get and what you're bringing in um you know somebody sends you a picture of their dog and and half of the dog's face is as a shadow you're not going to recover that you're you just can't so they're going to get half the dog's face engraved um you know so so that stuff matters um sharpness brightness i tend to think that um light burning graves darker than it looks on the screen so i tend to brighten it to the point where i don't think it should be so i would probably engrave it that light and i don't i don't necessarily think it should be that that bright you know little things like that you'll have to mess around with and find um but brightness um making sure there's good contrast of eyes and facial features and then using that sharpness to really make hairs pop and edges really show up well yeah and and i've found another resource you know we're talking about laser-specific stuff here but like chris had mentioned earlier about newspapers a lot of this uh a lot of this dithering you know it's been around forever and ever and ever you know since they've been printing images in newspapers because that's what they usually do is have toner or a jarvis or something like that you know just the dots and you can really learn i learned more about uh photos and and what dpi was you know and what sales were and and all that and the other by actually going to look at uh some old information about newspapers and how you print you know uh not digital printing but just old-fashioned paper printing because the principles are all the same you know so that opened up another line of resources for me i was looking at that stuff yeah this one is now looks like it's really light but it probably would engrave fine although this is newsprint so newsprint the dots are really really really big typically yeah it shows me a lot of the starting points and like i said main thing is i'm just going to play with it and but now i know what to play with right yeah and um like like like you said go slower um especially grayscale you're you're i'm in inches per second um grayscale you typically want to be let's find out what what it is i'm not between six and eight uh okay go 100 is that correct 152 brian you might know better than me what's that um my 25.4 inches or millimeters per inch um 120 152.4 let me see that's uh inches per minute right no that's that uh it should be six inches per minute 152 okay i should be able to change it and it's just not changing here for some reason well the speed the speed doesn't change globally with the um with the units change from metric to imperial because you can choose inches per second inches and then you can also be in inches and millimeters per second or you can be in inches per minute yeah 152 inches per millimeters per second for uh something like grayscale because keep in mind the tube is on the entire time um so you're going slower so somewhere between six and eight inches per second you may be able to max it out at 10. i usually don't go any higher you start to get smudging um but with uh with with some of the other stuff where it's just laying dots uh 10 10 to 14 inches per second would be my max uh and then power's just going to depend on what the substrate is all right but yeah you're correct the the faster you go the more quality you'll lose for sure all right i hope you took some notes oh yeah anyway and it recorded it so we should be good yeah if you have any other questions for me i'm no i think that's good like i said that gives me a starting point and like i said i just have to play with it and figure out what works best for me yeah and as you do that you'll have more questions you know as you get into it you'll you'll be finding out more things so you know we can revisit and follow up or something like that you know as you kind of evolve in this stuff because that's really what it is an evolution you know to get this stuff where you need it so yeah yeah use use those live buttons on the controller to to really figure out where you want to be um and by all means on facebook hit me up message me i can always hop on go to meeting or teamviewer and and hop on your your computer and uh you know and point you in the right direction especially if you show me your results show me what you're getting and i can quickly tell you well this is what you've done wrong or you're on the right path or what have you yeah that's good that way that way you've got a starting point a reference and then you can talk about that on things to make it better and all of that so yeah that's cool so um that's good well hopefully that'll give you some stuff to start on and think about you know and tweak and maybe give you at least be able to wrap your head around this thing a little bit because that's you know this is a this is definitely a rabbit hole though cool um do you have any other questions right now david that are specific so um but yeah play with that a little bit and we'll keep we'll keep walking through this stuff and and i'm learning as i go along too so this has been beneficial for me as well so yeah i have um i think three three other videos that i'm going to try to get done here within the next week um i already already have photo prep not for granted but photo prep that is on do i have it on thunder yet i'll i'll have everything up on thunder as well this weekend for um uh for youtube um no um you know we i started that forum that discourse um forum you know which is the platform that light burn and cohesion 3d and th 3d and a bunch of those other guys are using and it's great but what i've found is we're going to have to go to an enterprise class service ticket system uh to be able to manage uh these things and the reason is you know i realized that yesterday i had two people that had similar problems and i was getting the two people confused and you know did i talk to this person did i follow up with this guy so i'm gonna start slowly routing all of these uh questions and and things especially you know for the machine related stuff or even this i mean this is a good way for us not to let anybody fall through the cracks if they have a question so just be ready in the next couple of weeks we're gonna start rolling out our support ticket system and try to handle everything through there so that all of our knowledge is in the same place and all of our agents are in the same place and we're all on the same page and can manage that more efficiently so just a just a little heads up on some stuff coming out soon so all right and chris where'd you say your videos was that on youtube um you're gonna be able to find them on thunder or it's on house of uh house of lasers um which is on youtube on youtube and on um on facebook yeah i just created facebook yesterday just for this he's really jumping in the lines dan isn't he chris getting on facebook he's been blessed not having to get on that mess this long this far especially here especially here recently just uh go on to your your laser user groups and and bypass looking at everything else yeah right so awesome all right well i appreciate it chris and uh david i hope that helps again and all that stuff but you know we're just kind of rolling this thing out a little at a time and trying to collect this information where we can so we can make it available to everybody else so yeah that was great i appreciate it appreciate both of your help all right well i'm going to jump over here and go pick up my meat before i burn it and uh i'll let uh let you guys keep going if you want chris i gave you uh organizer rights so you can stay on here or if you want to call it we'll go i'll sit back and have a cold glass of iced tea and enjoy the rest of the evening you go do that all right well like i said reach out if you need me all right i appreciate your help thank you all right thank you

Channel: Thunder Laser USA

Views: 5,949

Keywords: ThunderLaserUSA, Thunder, Laser, High-End, Chinese, Gantry, Engraver, Cutter, 2 Year Warranty, US Service and Support, Quality, Innovation, Ready To Run, Out Of The Box, Free Residential Liftgate Shipping*, RF Tube Options, Best, Reliable, Odin 22, Mini 60, Nova 24, Nova 35, Nova 51, Nova 63, 5 Star Reviews, Dual-Stage Air Assist, TL Timer Smartboard, Automatic, Autofocus, Flame Detector, LightBurn, Camera, ThunderCAM, Low Price, Exceptional Value, Stellar US Support, S&A Chiller Included

Id: Sme9wZ6XLQY

Length: 56min 13sec (3373 seconds)

Published: Thu Jun 04 2020