Ikea Hack! Wall Cabinets on the Floor?? [video 528]

I hope you're well in these next couple of longer videos I'm going to show you how you put together these set of cabinets and shelves really quickly by repurposing some old Ikea Billy bookcases like 32 years old and by using some brand new Ikea method kitchen cabinets so why would you go for IKEA cabinets when you can just as easily make them well the same reason that anybody goes to Ikea time and money and 800 millimeter double and two 400 millimeter single cabinets a 370 mil deep cost me just 91 pounds a hundred dollars at Ikea whereas I worked out that it would take a full sheet of 18 mil and a half inch heater six more MDF to make these and that would cost me 95 pounds and that's just for the materials the finished cabinets would also need painting I knew I had enough coats on hand to make the doors and shelves myself no need to pay Ikea another 90 quid for those so having hung around Ikea Wembley for almost half an hour waiting for the purchases to come through the system I had them home and assembled in a fraction of that time say what you like about Ikea and plenty has been said let's be honest but three carcasses put together I won't say built but put together in less than 10 minutes it's not bad going I would still be marking up the first an MDF for cutting that's why I've done these because I just want it quick and easy what I'm going to do now I've got the characters built is actually measured directly off the carcass because I don't entirely trust the measurements that I'm given I am coming off the skirting board I'm going to put this on a plinth up to the base of the skirting it will come away from the wall slightly because I want to be able to feed some cables down there and there'll be a little cut out in the shelves here too to feed the wires into the back with the measurements confirmed I can get back into the workshop to start making the plins if it's just a single cabinet then adjustable feet work really well but when you've got a run of cabinets I always prefer to put them on a plinth because once the plinth is leveled up you can easily move the carcasses around in relation to each other I made the plinth out of 4x1 Redwood that's Scandinavian Redwood or Scots pine not the Giant Sequoia variety from Redwood simply screw together it's a quick and easy way to get a decent plinth and a quick and easy way to get the internal length is to measure the required finish size off a couple of offcuts held against the end of the workpiece and then use this as a gauge for all the subsequent cross members the cross members go in flat where the camera is put together as it gives you a better chance of supporting the join because this print was going to be left in a natural finish similar to the skirting board I covered the screw holes in the front face with plugs these are simply cut on the drill press I normally snap these out with a screwdriver but I thought I'd be fancy this time and use the bandsaw completely forgetting that I needed to change the blade never mind one more cut and I'll do it next time the plugs are just glued into the counter bars and sanded back afterwards [Music] um I put a coat of wax on the plinth just to darken it down a little bit and then I could get it fitted foreign it's leveled lengthways and at that end the secure to the security board skirt it wasn't going to move I know that's good so we've got a try and fix it down this end basically and the way I do it there's a couple of ways you can do it one is to cut the carpet and go straight down to the floorboards and I prefer to be a little bit lesser invasive than that I just got a block of scrap and just screw that down as hard as possible into the carpet and then have a little leg that that bears against screw down as well works well for me that's what I'm going to do here so a couple of points along the front and that should be enough to give us a a nice level platform to work often I'm using a simple wedge to level up length up then I can fix the leg in place [Music] foreign to make sure it doesn't wander [Music] and do the same a little bit further up the trick here is to make sure you go in deep enough to get a good fixing but not so deep that you might hit a pipe foreign [Music] fixed I can get the carcasses in and clamped together ready to measure up for the top I'm using the maple face plywood for this and I'm cutting it about 100 millimeters longer and 50 millimeters deeper than I need leaving plenty over to scribe so they're less than perfect walls surprising really as this part of the house was effectively a new build [Music] foreign videos that I haven't been especially impressed with this garnica board and it's continuing to leave me underwhelmed the end grains appear okay but the long ribs expose some unpleasantness in the core that I just don't expect to see in a board of this price okay sir a bit of plywood cut up there's no particular magic describing lots of ways you can do it I've done a whole bunch of videos subscribing I'll link those up down below really it's just a question of following the line of the wall a set distance apart there's no shortcut to this offer about trim it then try it rinse and repeat until you get a decent fit now because the top is scribed to the wall we can't use the back Edge to measure from to trim the plywood to fit so I've put tape on the underside of the top and drawn around the carcasses to show where the front edges will be and also marked with a far edge of the Wall comes on the right hand Edge back at the workshop I can allow an offset for the door thinness and then cut the top down to size getting it back into the carcasses for a final check before giving it a rub down and a quick coat of wax [Music] thank you while that soaks in I'm getting the MDF for the doors cut to size and it's always a good idea to Mark them up when they're in pairs like this I've cut some strippled to the same height as the doors and back of the carcasses I've marked the hinge positions on this strip you might have heard this called A Rod or a story stick and with the rod removed it's a simple matter to Mark the hinge plate fixing positions using a cheap jig links in the description as always and then drill them out back in the workshop I've transferred these positions to the doors using the rod it's worth pointing out that these IKEA cabinets don't use the standard 37 millimeter setback they're hinges so I can't use the existing row of holes or hinges only for shelf pins where the position is marked on the doors I can drill them out I don't do enough cabinet doors these days to dedicate the drill press to them so I'm using the Kreg Jig which is okay if you use within its limitations see my full review for more details on those and as always it's worth identifying the door within the hinge cup that means it stays there even when the door is painted using a straight edge is a great way to align a pair of hinges and the fixing positions could be drilled out easily with a self-centering bit back on site now and off camera I fixed the carcasses through the base onto the plane through the tongue tight screws then screw the carcasses together through the top shelf pin hole then the hinge plates could be screwed onto the carcasses you can also hide a fixing behind the hinge plate too if you need to I like to fix the top plate in the central position but leave the bottom hinge plate loose on its screws this just makes it easier to fit the door onto the hinge plate when the time comes and that time is now dual flanks all prepared and hinges attached we can get them clipped onto the hinge plates the bottom plate nipped up onto the carcass and any slight adjustments made to the door incidentally if you've ever wondered how big or small your cabinet door should be then keep your eyes peeled for a base Cabinetry Basics set of videos coming along soon where I'll have the answer to that and many other questions with all four doors sitting nicely I can use a level to Mark a reference point or datum for where the handle cutouts need to be then the doors can come off the hinges removed and marked and then we can get back to the workshop for those handles I'm using a simple finger pulled bit in a route over the guide Bush selling the templates against the datum each time so the doors match [Music] foreign yeah you know what's next it's painting time primer undercoat first and just by the by these are some prime painting techniques on display here it lets you paint both sides of a door in one hit basically halving your drying times check out the previous video on painting MDF doors for the full info or the recent short that also covers the process I've also found time to cut the shelves for the cabinets that double at 800 millimeters wide is right on the limit of the span I'm comfortable with in MDF so I'm using the maple veneered ply for this shelf but painting it white it's a shame to cover up the face veneers but I have no problems at all covering those edges so after the top coat is done and dried on the doors that's Farrow and ball Hague blue in an eggshell finish by the way once the top Cuts done and fully dried I can get the shelves fitted and the infill at the end I don't think I'd mention that before there's a infill at the end and then the doors on the hinges they're already marked up remember so they can be simply clipped onto The Cardigans like before as they've already been adjusted to fit so there you go three little cabinets a double and two singles made from Ikea carcasses in a very small and echoey room put together really quickly and easily with a basic plywood top and some painted MDF doors paint's still very soft on there so you need to be very careful with it the top isn't fixed in place yet because I wanted to uh get the power cable in and thread it through in the same way I haven't fixed the infill in place down here either um there's still a few little bits and pieces to do but pretty much sorted other than that very happy with how that's gone together and again you know there's actually nothing wrong occasionally in taking the path of least resistance and using an Ikea cabinet if that suits your needs there's things about them that I don't particularly like they do look like kitchen cabinets on the inside with the full height row of holes I don't like the fact that Ikea don't use a standard 37 millimeter setback for the hinges but I can live with that for the price that I paid and the convenience of putting assembling three hamlets in 15 minutes with no painting required at all I have noticed there's a little drip a little run of paint on the right hand door there so I'll have to I'll have to redo that but that can be for another day I'm going to call this one done for now be sure to join me in the next one uh when I'll be repurposing those 32 year old Billy bookcases to go above this and we'll see how that turns out thanks so much for taking a look and hopefully see you again very soon all right take care

Channel: Peter Millard

Views: 92,135

Keywords: woodwork, workshop, DIY hack, how-to, carpentry, cabinets, festool, MDF, Ikea, IkeaHack, IkeaCabinets, IkeaShelves, Ikea Billy Bookcase, Ikea Billy, Ikea Metod

Id: mRTVt9i8J4E

Length: 18min 52sec (1132 seconds)

Published: Fri Jun 02 2023