IFSC European Championships Moscow 2020 (RUS). Lead. Finals. Women. Men.

so [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] hello ladies and gentlemen welcome to the moscow european champs my name is matt groom i've been with you all day and i will continue to be with you all night as we get to the finals of this lead competition here in moscow first five minutes is so that's our stadium that we're competing on today as you can see that incredible lead wall on the right hand side of your screen we're just waiting for the athletes to come out and check out the route i've been briefed by the root setter and we have something pretty spectacular in store for you today you can just about see the men's root on the left hand side of that lead wall on the right hand side that's the women's route and i appreciate that pretty colors don't make for a good lead room but can we just respect the root centers here for making something truly beautiful the man's root winding its way up the wall starting in the middle creeping left creeping back right creeping left again a little down climb a little up time and then topping out where you can see the circle on the top of the wall the women's route again that sort of s case curve shape starting on some big red holes kind of almost split into sections both roots as we watch some replays from earlier today [Music] [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] that was all the actions from this afternoon semi-final and that's our finalists eight of some truly strong and endurancy athletes and joining me in the commentary box is alex kazanov alex first of all mate unlucky on not making this final two holds off yeah yeah it's true baba it's okay i'm happy to be here i'm happy to rest a bit you know before the for the combined semi-finals happy to make that and um yeah psyched to see my teammate climbs first in this final yeah it's gonna be a heck of a final as we wait for the athletes to come out we've been whittling down from qualifying to semi-final and now it's final time and hello everyone listening at home if you're on youtube we've got the youtube chat in front of us so remember you can drop us a message at any moment that's the men again eight athletes qualifying for this final he came out on top with 36 plus the field was tagged in the in the semi-finals everyone fell almost in the same hole yeah all the way up until the very end it was so so close that final section that crimpy section of that semi-final route really separating the athletes tell us a bit what we have here from you is this wonderful athlete's perspective of what's going on here in the arena what's the atmosphere like for you and for the athletes you know it's it's quite amazing and the wall is insane it looks so beautiful in in the roots are quite nice and the holes are good and it's it's nice to feel the atmosphere come you know after so long and especially in a comp in this big some world cups you know they don't feel like the same because maybe they're outside in the middle of the day but here you climb in a stadium full of people a spotlight on you on a nice route and it's it's incredible it's a feeling that you cannot explain you have to you have to feel it and um i missed it man so much i was about to say it sounds like you've missed confidence yeah definitely i miss climbing you know in in israel you don't have that much uh outdoor bouldering so we must have uh we have nice sport climbing though but i missed i miss climbing not in my gym not in my halls it's nice to be here nice to meet all the teammates from other countries and um yeah experience is this amazing thing yeah it is brienne's song was the last ifsc competition yeah and we we we had uh quite strict restrictions back then so we could not travel to bienson so this is a first for us for me it's less comp i i competed in was in um february in except first of february in milan and since then i did not compete in the international stage yeah i was looking back at the the last uh competitions all the athletes competed and it's all 2019. yeah just seemed like such a long time ago doesn't it [Music] so two routes one for the men one for the women and eight athletes competing alex let's just talk about how the scoring scoring works before we get started every single hold has a number attributed to it the first one is number one every time the athlete gets to that hold they get that point if they fall off at that point that's the score they're awarded so if they get to hold 18 they get 18 points but where things get a little tricky a little complicated is the plus now the plus is attributed if you use that hold but there's some specific rules about that the judges will award it if the athlete shifts their center of gravity and goes up with one hand now alex as an athlete you don't really need to worry about that but as a judge that's a tricky definition to work out actually you do worry about that sometimes you feel like you're gonna falsely you're gonna try to go for it but i feel like you know the way to do a proper plus is to go in with the intention of catching the next hole like if you went to actually grab it then you will get the bus if you just went while falling then you might not get it right the light show starts here in moscow are you guys sight back at home i know i am i can't wait for things to kick off here we've got a couple of hours with you to kick back put us on in the background in fact put us as your full attention because this is going to be a special evening of climbing wow fancy lights so beautiful wow makes me want to be up there damn alex kazanov of course competing all this week oh man [Music] and then uh hopefully it will be like this for the combined semi-finals as well or the finals i don't know such a nice atmosphere alex i've been saying all week these lights are coming on i'm not entirely sure what they're trying to show here um have you ever seen eurovision before yeah of course it's a bit like eurovision you know what i mean there's some kind of creative element i'm not quite getting here but it is beautiful yeah if i had to guess is the cycle of life maybe oh deep i don't know like thunder water earth goes back i'm not sure what is this but i mean goes into the ground and back to the air and then goes falls again yeah it looks like the cycle of life there you go alex far deeper than i was going with it and this is just dr strange stuff but here we go the ifsc european championship 2020 ifsc climbing is back we're back and it's lead climbing time three main single events throughout this competition we've had speed climbing we've had the bouldering final and this is the lead final over 40 athletes for the men and women have been whittled down to eight the athletes have been performing all week but don't worry they're always going to put on a show for us how are you guys at home where are you watching from shout me out a message on youtube where in the world are you coming from we've had all types of countries come up singapore canada and here come the athletes all right here we go hannah moyle from germany [Music] from the ukraine next up marquette so young those athletes crazy next to the stage will be great breads molly thompson smith with a binoculars we'll talk about that in a sec [Music] next to the stage is alicia prossikova of russia in front of her home crowd followed by her teammate daria mizetzafa she'll be next out [Music] [Applause] two russians in this final for the women three russians apologies three russians in the final for the women here she comes from the czech republic running out i would say the russians are the second best team in this country and who would you say is the first bestie i'm not gonna say [Music] victoria mexico for the final russian athlete to join us on this stage that's your women finalists and they will be climbing first the bouldering european champion by the way yeah i'm climbing strong all week let's see the men that's nimrod your teammate alex yeah my teammate my friend here's vladislav shivchenko of russia [Applause] one of two russian males in this final next will be angie perhaps [Music] of slovenia his teammate journey crude of course winning the bold ring the other night please go back and watch that was so exciting martin stranick what a legend he strides out of the stage alex is literally waving at all the athletes by the way so he can see me and i'm supporting him hannes pullman what a semi-final that man had next up will be switzerland's sasha lehmann a lot of support from him on the live chat nicholas from belgium he's next out on the stage the beast the hulk as i called him early on crazy he's still still not bleeding from everywhere dimitri he concludes those are our finalists eight men eight women ready to put on a show for us tonight right alex we're about to move on i'll let the russian commentator stop so you guys can hear my voice right alex this stage let's explain it for people watching at home what are the athletes up to right now so we have uh eight minutes to uh observe the root and kind of memorize it in our brain so we can we know what we're gonna do while we climb and it's really crucial because when you're climbing and when you're pumped and when you're tired you don't have that much time to actually think of what are you going to do you have to know what you're going to do and it's really helped to visualize the route before so now is the time where all the athletes are talking together working together towards building this map in our heads to remember the route and then when they go backstage and we are going backstage uh the athletes can can go over the route and kind of understand what they're going to do while they're climbing yeah because in the qualifying round that isn't on site on-site climbing is when you turn up and try to climb the route without really knowing how to do it whereas in the qualifiers they get a video they get to watch other athletes semi-finals the same kind of format they get to see it briefly and then they try to climb it so you can see the athletes just planning it out that's why a few of them carry the binoculars because 15 meters high that lead wall is i'm certainly getting old i can barely see to the top of it you're younger than me i'm sure you're fine but the athletes with binoculars and i could see molly thompson smith she looks down the wall is overhanging you know it's quite a lot of climbing um the walls tend to change between a comp and a comp sometimes we have short walls uh in a trilogy world championship the wall was extremely short um and this is actually quite tall i mean the route is uh 43 moves total which is uh yeah [Music] yeah 43 moves for the mayor i think it's 37 for the women on the right hand side all right 37 okay i thought it's 47 for a second that's a lot of 47. yeah so the men's route is on the left as you look at it and it's split into some quite distinctive sections which we'll go into more detail as the athletes get on it the men's is all about physicality really it's a very physical route and the crux of the whole section is going to be when the when it flicks back on but check out the purple holds very bad feet bad crimps and the women's as well certainly an endurance route there's the athletes just checking it out what's your personal preference alex do you tend to talk to your fellow athletes and get beat or do you like to stay in your own head yeah definitely in the semi-final we were three israelis so nimrod yuval and myself and we first for first two minutes we all looked at the root individually and tried to think about our way and then we started working it from the start to the top together and each one of us sharing his own idea on the problem like the more complex sections and uh yeah you can see that in climbing sometimes climbers from the same nation tend to choose the same ways same betas in the same final neighborhood and me used almost this identical way of doing the route we could see an example of that as nicholas kola talks with sasha or as molly thompson smith yeah she's having a look with hannah moyle and you can see simultaneously air climbing there that's so synchronized isn't it yeah it's crazy right and then you see them climb and um but i think it's the nicest thing about our sport is the friendship and you know the the way that people want to help each other you want to win by being the best and not by you know other people being worse than you you know the best feeling is to winning a hard comp when you had a fight where you know you were the best and not where like everyone screwed up if you're new to us i know there's been quite a lot of people who are watching climbing for the first time so do feel free to ask us questions you can drop us a comment down below and we'll try to answer them farming is one of those complex sports and i for one i've had to really read up on the rules for my commenting position here and it is complex there's lots to it but in reality all these athletes you're trying to do is get to the top of that wall without falling off that's fundamentally what they're trying to do yeah you never think about the rules you never think about like oh where i'm allowed to clip like you just clip your quick drills where you go up you climb it's quite simple really just start here finish there yeah simple basis but uh some complexities which we'll try to explain to you one of them being those quick drawers in the wall you can see them the rope is currently moving through them that rope is going to be pulled down attached to the athlete and the athlete has to climb from the top to the bottom and every time they get to one of those quick draws they have to clip it in and they have to clip every single quick draw it's no good dodging them trying to save energy and soloing up that wall you have to clip them and to top out the route you have to clip that final quick draw you better see it because it's underneath the sign that says top and it's bright orange keep an eye out for that as the athletes couple of minutes left now as they check out this route alex they're allowed to touch the first hold and on our screen we can see sasha doing that now you are allowed to touch the first hole as long as your one of your feet is is touching the ground yeah you're not allowed to go and do pull-ups on the first day not that you can on the on the men's route on the women's you can definitely because it's a it's a big hold but uh the men the start looks so uh insecure for the man wow yeah that looks like a ballery sequence yeah it is i was talking to the root centers about this and uh yeah they said it was tricky they said they expect no one to fall on it but it is going to slightly unsettle the athletes possible yeah you know the the thing is about those starts is that they kind of mess with your head you start like oh man it's so hard from the start and then starts like everything feels hard suddenly and uh yeah it's it's uh and sometimes you tend to think too much about the start when you're not that uh experienced for me myself i i don't tend to do that many lead comps so i'm not that experienced and suddenly i was thinking for the semifinals oh what should i do with the first move go right hand left and then i mean it's easy you know just go and do it but yeah it sounds easy doesn't it in reality very tough and the pressure of course these guys know they're being watched yeah the pressure means a lot i mean it's hard to imagine the pressure those athletes are under but you know imagine you stand uh in a circle and the circle is about i don't know 30 centimeters wide and it's easy right i mean you can stand but imagine that circle is like 500 meters in the air and if you just step like that position that you can fall off and this is kind of the same it's it's not hard but there's this situation where you're in the comp and you have only one chance it changes everything really [Music] so my name is matt groom this is alex kazanov we're coming at you alex one of the athletes competing here today sadly not making it through to the finals but it does mean that we have the pleasure of him in our commentary box giving us some expert athlete opinions of this route it's going to be the women who climb first and you can see that's the women's route the red starting holds as the excitement builds in the stadium spectators are allowed to come into this stadium it is separated socially distance we're all wearing masks and it's interesting this stadium we haven't got as many spectators as we normally have because of kobe but because of that we have this unique scenario where we can almost hear every sound of the athletes every breath every foot bang every fall off the ball every day even in our national team whatsapp group we have so many gifts of us the same stuff we're like you know ram ram levin was in ramen was in the finals in the bouldering and you can hear everything yeah every grunt from an athlete every power screen so we're seconds away here guys this is the lead final we've been building up to it all week and you know we're not used to it we don't know that like we don't used to they have cameras on us all the time and for example nimrod that he's not going to climb first for the men kissed the last stone yeah exactly it's very uh there's a lot of scrutiny going on and the camera work i've got to say has been pretty spectacular here in moscow we're not in control of the camera angle we're coming to commenting on what we can see luckily we're in a fantastic position in our commentary box we've got a screen so we can see what you guys are seeing but we can also see the whole whole lead wall so we'll keep an eye on what's going on a lot of israeli guys in the chat nice to see the support people came to support nimrod yeah and i just want to say thank you to everyone if you are commenting on the live stream it's been a really lovely live stream the community of climbing is very strong and it's great to see everyone chatting answering each other's questions not being particularly nasty so let's continue that because i for one love reading all of your comments women's final route as the camera pans in [Music] so here we go that's the door we're gonna see the first athlete who will be hannah moyle she'll be coming out first the athlete's order is decided on that semi-final round so the athlete who got the best score from the semi-finals they'll be out last as victoria hannah moyle she was the last athlete the eighth athlete to qualify so she'll be out first to climb in front of us as you can see socially distance audience it's nice to have an audience even if how are you guys doing at home i know throughout this morning when we're chatting to you there are lots of people having us on in the background working are you still working are you working from home are you locked down let me and alex know what you're up to you can see some of the athletes there supporting just a brief pause as the dj ramps things up there's been a lot of comments about the dj's choice of music some people are enjoying it some people not so much there is always criticism about the dj i mean some athletes likes to have it's uh chill some people observe it like may i'd be climbing fully to death metal you know i just i just need that thing smashed here we go hannah out she comes 19 years of age one of our younger competitors interesting note here usually in the ifsc the ifc provide the ropes and they're shared around but because of covered regulations all the athletes have to bring their own ropes little geeky facts for you there is hannah starts off her finals route nice and steady through this first section the athletes wanting just to settle down work this route up they only get one shot at this nice start it's so uh interesting to see the difference in the in the roots towards like if you look at a route 10 years ago it looks totally different you know with all the holes and the volumes and the style of setting changed so much a few terminology we're going to be throwing at you today watch out for heel hooks that's when the athlete uses the heel of their shoes to hold themselves onto the wall or to rest on the wall and climbing shoes specifically designed for that there's a lot more rubber than you'd see and right now with her left foot she's toe hooking so again rubber coming across the front of the show allowing the athlete just to hold themselves into the wall and there you go one of those heel hooks right six minutes alex to climb this route do you think time's going to be a factor no i don't think so it is not particularly long 37 moves is quite a standard um and it looks uh flowy like just keep on going and i think you know it depends more on the style of the climber than the route itself some climbers tend to rest more and some tend to uh climb fester you can see that hannah scored 19. she's on hold 19 at the moment now she's about to enter the section that the route setters think is the hardest part of the route or what we call the crux i love those pinches really so nice yeah they have got a little edge on them haven't they those little knobbins that's what i've been calling them that the athletes can just use to crimp their fingers on to wrap their thumbs around you know one thing to look out for is skin issues i mean athletes climb for five days straight skin is an issue and those holes are sharp nice hannah bumps up that right hand looking strong now she makes the clip now composing herself as she nears the end of this crux section drops that knee down takes a moment to rest chalk up you can see there from that shot just how bad those holes are as she rocks up locking off her right shoulder nice recovery from her [Applause] up into the undercling with the left hand hannah moyle climbing strong so far just desperate to find the purchase as she bumps that left hand up trying to find the best part of the hold left foot onto the crimp wow incredible fight come on hannah taking a big fall she chooses not to crimp load not to clip low down going up to the crimp 30 points to her she will be top of the leader because we haven't had any others yet but it was incredible fight and she fought for like six moves or seven moves amazing there you can see that that's hannah's competition done and that moment of relief for her when she comes down she's done all she can do now yeah and it's the moment of oh i have a rest day tomorrow so nice so do i it's gonna be fantastic chess games all day exactly yeah we are in russia a lot of us have been watching netflix queen's gambit has been on a lot of people's minds right let's check out hannah on the crux here she bumps up with the right hand just having to readjust into that pinch you can see her right thumb just closing around that little nubbin of a hold steadying herself and that bump with the right hand alex you're right she was fighting all the way from that moment yeah crazy like here look look at her hand just like so low and she bumps and a bit more in a bit more and a bit more right she looks happy she does look happy she's done well nika what up over she's out next from the ukraine i prodigy really now keep an eye on nika because the route setters were telling me that for that bottom section of the route where it goes from left to right it is more difficult if you're a slightly shorter climber nika not the tallest in the world let's see how she manages with that tricky section she got a different approach for the start yeah we discussed earlier that start is important just to set all the athletes down yeah it's like the the first boulder in a bouldering round like it sets your face for the for the rest of the round she is now climbing nice and slow and in control i don't think time is going to be an issue on this route as we've discussed but if the athletes don't compete it within that six minutes they will have to come down so it's a balance between climbing it quickly enough to make sure that you finish it or you get as far as you can but not burning out you don't want to be climbing so quick you don't rest enough it's tricky it does take experience yeah it's uh it's crazy to see the difference between climbers like for example jan hoyer you know he i remember one time in chamonix i think it was he climbed without a choke back he just chalked in the ground and said i don't need to choke up i'm just gonna climb his feathers like until i fall was that house bouldering days when he was uh all power no endurance yeah yeah and uh and then you see someone else like slower i know maybe comments coffee you know resting hill hooking it's just all the different styles but both works i mean it just depends on the climber check out that left hole that she's holding that is a dual textured hold so the left hand side of it has got friction on it was the right where she might be able to put her left foot up that part that has got hardly any friction very very slippery i mean i think it's just having to watch that you can see she's resting on it but she's trying to stand up for that she might just pop off quickly and it's something else they have to think about then she climbs with a bit slower face not that it means anything you know climbing but just her style i guess [Music] yeah taking the time three minutes 50 to go the whole point of this section she's about to enter here is just to maintain a bit of strength it's designed to exhaust the athletes and she takes a fall early on there perhaps fatigue coming in there alex it's been a couple of days of competition you know nurse fatigue i don't know how she's doing in the ranking for the combine maybe she needed good results um [Music] but yeah should definitely not climb with the confidence you you want to see but uh but it's a it's a final route it's hard route you know it's yeah nick at 19 years of old of age remember i can't believe she's 19 away i've got quite an interesting stat if she had won she would have been the first person male or female to get a lead medal for ukraine at the european champs seriously so wow if we talk about pressure that's something in the back of her mind it's really good same for nimrod actually if neymar is going to get a medal is the first uh medal in the european championship for israel right now the only medal we have from the senior ifc comp is the world cup i won in 2018. so it's going to be incredible uh let's see something like this happening she comes to the stage now you can see still air climbing still just remembering it has been a little while since she's looked at that route she's just familiarizing herself with the moves again here she goes chalking up as she begins her final we're talking about jan hoy apparently he's in the chat hello jan if you're watching what did he say just been pointed out by other people expressive climber you could see on her face using an open grip on these holds she enters the first green volume of the root tiny little crimp there to get established and then she's looking to bump that right hand out right it's a tricky start for the women this not easy designed to sap the energy she makes a big bump out right yeah yeah you can see she's just resting there just trying to recover some energy first bouldery section you can see the scores in the right-handed sound of your screen hand them oil early alex we talked about her struggling her head's in her hands right now not what she would have wanted wow what a pity yeah i mean i think she got a bit nervous in the start the start maybe was a bit harder than she expected and the moment the footsteps i thought she can hold the green volume without the feet look like she already saved herself oh man so sorry for her yeah you can see distressed you can see how much this means to these athletes you know you get one chance especially in these times of of kovit i mean you never know when is the next time you have the chance to compete in this level you never know where you're gonna be and you know it's disappointing not to to do the best yeah we're watching a replay now at that moment you can see or you might be able to see her hands just starting to encore there just a foot slip that's all it was she went from the heel turned it into a toe and that was enough just to pop her off molly thompson smith now she's starting off as we have one more look at marquette sitting in the athletes holding area just chatting it through with her fellow competitors one of the stronger athletes in this field definitely a favorite see what she can do yeah molly having a slightly disappointing bouldering fight semi-finals for her she's looking to redeem herself with this lead final and it is her specialism it's what she's the best at yeah and you know what they say when you do better in the normal round you win the the combine yes megos [Music] [Music] she bumps her hand down quite a big move coming up with the left hand almost horizontal there she palms down on that green volume slight adjustment of the feet just to get ready for the clip remember this is the first time the athletes have climbed on the route and alex how much does it change when you're up there you've seen it on the ground sure but when you're up on the wall things are different i guess it's uh depends on your experience sometimes uh it surprises you hopefully it will surprise you in a good way the holes are better than you expected sometimes they are much worse than you expected sometimes exactly as you uh thought they are it's better you become or like more experienced you become you can visualize you know better yep molly climbing quickly here four minutes to go she bumps out that right hand onto the pinch [Applause] i think this is a it's a hard move that she just did it's a hard move absolutely and a lack of feet as well nice knee brother yeah that knee bar can just be used to take the weight off the hands and she makes a big move up left sticks it [Applause] while he's choosing not to use that other red hole she bumps up with the right hand it's time to look slightly uncomfortable do you want to heal in here at some point you can see i just iron it up there is that heal not the way uh it looks safer maybe easier smart smart climbing from here molly choosing to clip that's the last clip before the head wall and when i say head wall i mean the top vertical section of this climbing wall is very overhanging and she's almost through that section now and it's always fun to climb on a head wall in a complex here comes molly she's aiming for hannah moyle's score of 30 plus she doesn't know that's where hannah got to she's just trying to climb as high as humanly possible hopefully top the root out but she matches that green volume she does more hand moves than hannah but looks like it's safer she looks quite well in this position molly entering the head wall now that vertical section she's going to make a clip hannah of course not clipping that deciding to try to go up to the next crimp what can molly do this is a big move all right [Applause] ali just looking for that crimp with her left foot we'll see a replay of that but it just seemed when she was adjusting it she was on the left she tried to mantle the left hand to bring her left foot higher um and looks hard it looks like a hard position i don't know maybe it's better to switch feet or just like maybe you just need to be a bit fresher but at high point it is for her um so she uh worst case scenario she will stay in the same place she qualifies for the finals fist bumps all around molly the fourth climber out we're halfway through this women's final and uh look like there are a lot of hard section before this move so i don't know maybe it's uh maybe it's a good result we'll see you later lovely to see you guys supporting the athletes on the live stream i know you guys have missed competition climbing as well it's cool to be back here in moscow as molly look at that move palming down pressing out cutting loose so much going on at the same time so powerful i mean just uh powerful style snowman's apartment on youtube saying super intelligent climbing for molly and i would agree with that yeah yeah especially in this section she didn't go big moves she went small moves heel hooks a bit i mean looked efficient it does this is her fall now as you can see watch her left foot she tries to come up just misses that fold just slightly beneath it but that's a good example of how small these holes are for the athletes she pings off what a shot i don't think we need to describe what's going on there but they're probably doing it for us right next athlete out alicia prosekova of russia such a brutal brute for his skin like you can see on the screen to screw on that you need to go quite dynamically too so sharp imagine those climbers climbing for five days and they're gonna have only one rest day before they combine skin is an issue it's the thing that you need to take care of i can't imagine time for five days i'm about a day and a half max and i need a break replay that of hannah moyle currently lying in second place as she bumps up and this is the move that got her that crimp it's not only climbing for five days it's competing for fridays and you know with the covet we need to stay in the hotel and isolate ourselves and it's a challenge it's not how we can go relax take a walk in the city you know we're in our rooms we're really limited with our you know choice of food and yeah the conditions are not like perfect for recovery so it's just this fatigue that you take on day after day and i'm happy to be here with the big team that support each other and i feel like without a team i would recover much worse and i think it's important you know it's it's uh being here on your own would be yeah exactly support is key that's our lead wall men's on the left we'll talk about that when the men come out but that's a complex looking beast and on the right the women's route beautifully laid out in red and green there's alicia prossikova from russia she comes out climbing in her flares that she's been all week i'm a big fan of those climbing trousers yeah yeah people are asking uh who's commentating with me this is alex kazanoff from israel hello right six minutes on the clock let's see what alicia can do here heel hook to start a little mantle up makes a clip essentially how she deals with this we've seen some athletes really struggling to get through this first section others just cruising it the olympic tickets that are available from this week's climbing comes at the end of the week for the combined final no olympic place awarded for this just glory a gold medal it's always i mean the european champion title is a it's a big title even if the comp is smaller than it used to be than it should be it's still a title still european championship medal absolutely you can't take away some nations missing choosing not to send athletes because of covered reasons or because they've already qualified for the olympics a variety of reasons but the joy or one of them not the joy perhaps the advantage of missing some of those big names we do get to see newer athletes out on the stage some fresh faces you guys enjoying this back at home what do you think of the women's route so far let us know in the comments below smash that like button if you're watching on youtube as alicia gets in a heel hook it's more of a sort of a leg hook really it's a powerful move right it's look at how she's grabbing smart yeah trying to get a knee bar in there you could see but perhaps not quite tall enough for a rest there do you think adam andrew would release his hands on his knee bar of course he would have probably yet adam andre arguably one of the world's greatest climbers currently not in this comp he's in spain as alicia she goes up onto that dual textured hole that moves quickly off at that time not really hanging around on that crimping her fingers onto that hold [Applause] we've seen almost every athlete heel hook on that little crimp now it's the first hard bump i should choose a different way there she is making a clip few people asking about back clipping you can just clip that rope in anywhere you want during a competition now one of her characteristics of climbing is her insane flexibility you can see it with this split smooth look at that one her left foot heel hooking jamming in the right out right he's incredible if i was in that position i'd be crying but she looks comfortable and look at this jam left heel hook it's stuck in the uh [Music] it's great to see that bar on the right-hand side giving us a live update on where the athletes are i love those face shots and you can see her face like how she tries sometimes from the back everything looks easy when the climber does everything right but when you're climbing something is actually really hard alicia now she's about to enter the hardest part of the route the crux a few ways of doing this and we've seen athletes doing it differently she's really utilizing these foot jams here yeah between the two volumes smart climbing from her looks like she's recovering on this do you keep an eye on the time though two minutes to go all those rest do take time and as you can see they're just starting to motor a little bit as she gets into this hard section and she's only like a bit more than halfway up and she already used four minutes of the time yeah we didn't think time would be an issue but she has rested her way up which might prove to be very smart yet we'll see one minute 50 on the clock [Music] she has some tape on her ankle and the laptop is not an issue she uses a lot of left heel hooks here yeah she really is she bumps up you can see where the chalk has come from other athletes with that pinch she makes the clip that quick draw extended the root set is thinking as much about clipping as anything else as that heel starts to rotate off had a bit of a fiddle with that clip then you could see that heel just starting to come off the hole when you see her looking down sometimes she looks at the clock you know climbers have a big clock down and they can see how much time they have left and uh it was not always like this sometimes you'd just guess and it's uh i think it's a nice uh it's a nice thing that you have a she might be able to see the clock but she does need to move here as it's ticking down rapidly four to six seconds to go as she bumps that left hand out wow splits move she does 35 seconds yeah it's gonna be close yeah really as she comes in you can see i think we were talking about time i think she was resting so much just because of the amount of pond that she was going on she's definitely trying to get something back there and i think she just rushed a bit she looked quite in control i think she could do this move and even the next move uh but she was rushing she saw the clock she saw 30 seconds left she wanted to top you see how disappointed she is [Music] she probably knew that you know she can do it yeah a little foot stand there from her you can always read what she's thinking and i think i think it's disappointment as she undoes that not i think she's in a figure of eight not in this competition oh man sorry for her molly thompson smith currently leading the way followed by hannah moyle in second place as we watch a replay of her early on in the route [Applause] alex do you think this is perhaps where she started to lose some of that endurance because we saw her resting so much throughout that i think endurance was an issue for her she looked just like a a classic you know a good lead climber she could rest she recovered you know she used her legs really well you know with the splits and you know the jams was nice uh show of technique but i think it was all about you know rushing she was going too fast she didn't really uh you know to take care of her left hand right hand yeah you can see all her attention was on that left bump she bumped it like three times and then suddenly lost that right hand right on the wall now is daria 60 years of age right a good question i think so i think she might be yeah certainly one of our younger athletes it's nice to see uh russian young athletes yeah a lot of people talking about the resurgence of russian climbing recently probably more and more popular here in moscow and it's great to see an event of this size this statue i guess they also have quite a lot of pressure to perform well it's not easy to have a comp in that size and you know i i know that the russian commentators really like tend to uh support you know the athletes but it's also just uh puts a lot of pressure on you when you when you have someone saying in my like here's our hope for a medal you know it's it's a big responsibility yeah keeping pressure on pressure as she goes up with the right hand most athletes going left such strength from her she bowls her way through that move reaches down with the right hand to clip great route so far nice to see so many athletes doing so many different things on it and uh no ties which is which is something uh to respect yeah nicely balanced by the root setters daria going up with the left hand daddy misinterval of russia she just cuts loose for joining us around the world we are live on the bbc there's a brit very excited for that one we're live on youtube of course lots of ways to watch this stream and nice to see you guys getting involved in lead climbing and comp climbing i know you've missed it i've missed it darrick now entering the crux section of this route looking strong so far she drops that left knee down looking at the other climbing of all the russian you know russian climbers in this final looking them and uh the same fine they look like they have endless amount of endurance really also both men and women it's it's insane they just they look pumped for one second then they rest and they're like new new uh new climbers in the wall [Applause] yeah absolutely as she comes into this hardest section she's going to look for a left heel hook now there it is she rocks up on it really twisting that leg almost 90 degrees finger pinch there you go matching that hold now as she goes up crimping this using the heels to rest her way up the route smart climbing from her bumping that heel up this time as she makes that clip plenty of time two and a half minutes on the clock molly thompson smith currently out in the lead you can see on the right hand side as various score creeps upwards a lot of time on the clock two minutes and this this point of the route is is more than enough to top it absolutely not the time to rush okay how she shakes she will be like a new climber from this position [Applause] and she slaps up for the pinch and i said i don't know what you thought but to me just seemed like our feet were slightly in the wrong position look quite low for that move it's just uh a really powerful move it's just like this movie that you have to go big and uh look like from her climbing that think she has a lot of finger strength but in this position you had to do just a big move on the pinch um [Music] yeah if we're gonna see a replay then you can see that how she didn't catch the pinch right she just had four fingers in the hold [Applause] two more women to climb as we watch some replays of early on in this route you can see less of a heel hook more of a leg hook really hope everyone's enjoying it back at home we're having a great time here in the commentary box watching the highest level of competition climbing here at the ifsc european champs in moscow adamuska is announced to the audience as she strides out confidently as we see daddy is full there she looks up at what could have been what was looking emotional staring at the camera so hard to have a camera shoved in your face after something like that is this really a team we love that you guys are just show-offs right maybe a a bit a little bit i wouldn't know anything about that of course and always in a good way alayska adam scover she starts off heavily taped up on that left shoulder often more of a preventative measure that tape rather than necessarily an injury sometimes psychological sometimes just to sort of protect the joint yeah sometimes you know when you have a slight pain and something uncomfortable you know the tape does the work like uh you tape it you feel more secure [Applause] choosing to go up the left hand instead of the right as we've previously seen she gets the knee bar now i can't remember who it was i think it was marquetta who tried that kneebar couldn't get it just a difference in height there yeah it does allow her a very good opportunity to rest those knee bars really take the pressure off the arms allow the lactic acid to get out of the arms we call it pump when an athlete is getting tired with that build up of lactic acid and it literally means that your fingers uncurl from the hold it's like your body won't obey you it's one of the most frustrating things but it's part of sport climbing something that every athlete has to battle with she gets in that high left heel hook the number one cause of pulling in a response she looks at them [Applause] yeah again another athlete utilizing that foot jam there on the left hand side heel pressing on the volume toe pressing against the other volume really locking in that move keep the chats coming guys if you're watching on youtube and hello if you're from the bbc welcome to sport climbing chalk everywhere now as she moves up into the hard section of this route bumping up with that left hand a big [Applause] move also live on sport israel and the olympic channel covered by a variety of different platforms that's maybe nervous saying that alex there's lots of people watching this it's okay i'm really happy that a lot of people watch climbing nowadays in israel i'm so happy that it's it's became so popular and it got the stage that it deserves and uh tell you in a few years we'll be like the the new japan elisa now as she gets into the business part of this route not looking actually struggling at all with two minutes 50 on the clock that's the pinch that undid daddy nice she climbed with such confidence he's so impressed come on here's this crap wow so strong yeah she's just resting with that drop neither yeah [Music] statically goes up to that hold looking calm already uh secured you know the high point yeah she moves into the lead as you can see all that pressure now check out these massive volumes and watch this move she's going to have to cross the right hand through which she does make it look easy feet down low now a jump to the top of it yeah look at his jump big dino to finish off the clip down by her waist she's going to take a swing if she drops this an exciting move as she eyes up that last finishing jump could we see our first top of the evening as alicia adam soft she looked at the clock she knows she has time she's going to rest a bit rest their arms wow here we're using climbing man wow really she takes a moment now shaking out resting getting ready for the last dino move left foot here she goes stretching out and taking the whipper as she comes down giving it everything alex what a moment that was wow incredible climbing i'm so impressed i don't remember watching your climb so much in the past but it was really impressive and yeah the last jump is hard it's hard root server said it's easier to jump actually with one hand that really surprised me i when i looked at the rule i was sure it's a double dino but yeah incredible performance is it enough though one last athlete out victoria meshkova from russia will she take the win in front of her home crowd big smiles all around now as we watch a replay of that route a master class in control and the determination on her face as she pushes through that croc section of the route getting the heel hooks in and that static move [Applause] fantastic performance but we have one more to go as we see that big swing the big jump there's the athletes just comparing notes 36 plus her score as victoria she just takes a moment to look up walking towards the wall one final athlete [Applause] there's your leaderboard at the moment will it change oh my fingers are so sweaty i am nervous my heart's stomping i hope yours at home are as well six minutes to do this route time not really playing a factor so far purely down to difficulty [Applause] the music thumping away in the background final athlete out she qualified first from the semi-finals that's why she's out last makes a big clip out left choosing to rest on that undercling pinch european bouldering champion already incredible if she can win uh the lead as well i don't know if any uh woman won both of those titles in the same time in the same company yeah victoria winning the bouldering the other night can she do the double in front of her home crowd that would be truly truly special doing the splits as she reaches up in the undercling you can see how overhanging this root is sometimes hard to tell from straight on wow i mean that's got so far past the drop knee that move my knee hurts yeah mine too i winced here she goes big bump up with the right hand wrapping that thumb around the nubbin of a hold she sorts her feet out left heel hook climbing in a similar style we've seen resting now as she matches having a think imposing herself nice and calm so far so much pressure on victoria the final athlete out she makes a clip from down low halfway through the hardest section of this route now looking relaxed you can see a leaderboard she's going to need a top to take this victory left hand pinches this is energy sapping as she reaches up statically into the good part of the whole confidence she looks so strong incredible [Applause] right on the undercling now one of the last goods holds really she sorts her feet out to make that clip russian crowd starting to chant starting to clap she did not clip but she's gonna do it now she looks slightly more tired [Music] [Applause] she's still on as she moves up right hand cross through a rest coming up if she can make it chalks up left hand out she needs a top are we going to see one victoria meshkova final affy out i'm pretty sure she just need to go for it and then she wins the comp yeah this all comes down to this second for her already a bouldering champion will she become a lead champion she eyes up the dino we know it's going to be a big swing will she have the energy to hold it she takes a deep breath as she shakes out her arms waiting for this moment here we go [Applause] swing and a miss for her she looked a bit frustrated really well but she's the european champion [Applause] [Applause] what's going to be the result of this the russian coach [Applause] cheering [Music] high drama here in this stadium in moscow [Applause] according to our scoreboard she does take the victory victoria mexico european double champion wow damn man double european champion what a moment unbelievable scenes here alex i'm gonna have to run across the stadium in a couple of minutes and chat to her i just incredible wow i mean we were chatting about her being a double champion i didn't really think it was possible honestly like fatigue surely has to play a part in that ken i mean wow wonderful scenes here as she whips down that's the confirmation on the board victoria meschkovit in first place alicia adam skova in second molly thompson smith in third taking the bronze medal wow ladies and gentlemen i hope back at home you were as excited as me as alex in the commentary box i've got the sweatiest hands i ever have watching the comments watching a competition comment below and let us know if you enjoyed that i'm going gonna dash over and interview her alex i'll leave you in charge of the live stream good luck i'll see you guys in a second [Applause] [Music] [Applause] is [Applause] [Applause] is um is [Music] is how are you feeling here tonight uh i really really happy but i want a top it's a really good road it's hard i like thank you congratulations you're in front of your home crowd it must feel incredible to win that victory congratulations thank you i will victoria well done i'll speak to you later thank you very much [Music] [Music] [Music] bye anything could stop me right i'm back such incredible moment from victoria there she's a double champion alex we we talked about it as she was going up i didn't really believe it would happen i thought considering how much climbing she's done considering the pressure on her and yet looking so calm and confident i have no idea how she did that really well i competed um for these four days and i wasn't in the bouldering final either and all i want to do is sleep you know it just came out and one two comes incredible english obviously not our first language with that interview i had to do it in english but one thing she did say to me was that she was disappointed that she didn't top the roof that was one of her first reactions it just shows the drive yeah you know in a way when you interview the japanese i mean i think it's it's a thing that is is common to great climbers that they just want to talk you know they want to do the best they can they always the only way they will be satisfied if they feel like they gave give it all yeah it's what separates us me immortals from the athletes is the fact that you can become a double champion and yet still still be disappointed in your performance but amazing scenes here from the women how did you enjoy that back at home if you're watching leave us a comment if you're on youtube hello if you're on other platforms we've just had an amazing women's final excited for the men now and you know my teammate and my training mate and my roommate uh is is gonna climb first and uh i'm very excited for him you know he really wanted this final uh we both were quite disappointed with our performances in bouldering both of us are special specialists in bouldering you know and uh we both did better in lead that we didn't bouldering so i'm really happy for him that he made the finals and i'm really excited to see him climbing this route and uh in general i think the route is it looks fantastic from the ground it looks really aesthetic and and hard and you know dynamic and um yeah yeah it's going to be a challenging final for the men they'll be out in a few minutes eight men will compete on this stage here in moscow and this route as alex said is pretty special pretty unique it curves its way up the wall you can just see it on your screen the lead wall is the overhanging wall to the right-hand side that will be lit up in a minute by spotlights as the athletes come to the stage a lot to talk about on this men's route a lot going on myself matt groom and alex we'll be talking you through it a couple of minutes now just calm your heart beats down if you're back at home go and make yourself for coffee and uh yeah you can't get that advice it's gonna be evening soon i'll be awake all night i mean it's surely it's chamomile tea time and you know just settling down this is the difference between uh israel and uh and britain you you guys drink tea in the evening we drink coffee black my body's my temple mate i'm all about the uh the fruit cheat yeah quite how we got talking about tea i don't know but um here we are myself that group and alex kazanov bringing you all the action from the moscow european championships it's been a long time since we've seen comp climbing but it is back and we have seen high drama all week and it's not over yet we get a day off tomorrow and then friday sees the combined qualifier and uh the guys at home might be disappointed that there's a day off but man we are so happy one thing i miss is a couch and a tee alex is going to be lounging around on the bed in his pants playing chess yeah yeah definitely i hope i can play chess because i think my mind is too tired to think yeah it has been intense for everyone here especially the athletes after that combined qualify on friday we see the combined finals and the combined finals is where two olympic tickets are up for grab one for the men one for the women awarded to the top athlete the winner of that competition i have goosebumps you know so much work into this for for myself and for my teammates and for all the athletes here this three years came came into this moment and this past eight months that were not easy for anyone and uh incredible that it's gonna happen and someone will get this olympic ticket you can you can uh argue if it's if it's uh if it's right that they give ticket in the comp like that not anyone can compete but you know you always look in the bright side and and and it's exciting exciting it's going to happen it's exciting that is happening and i'm personally happy to be back on the stage and i really hope that uh soon enough we can be back in our normal life and competing the normal circuit and having world championships next year and everything will be back on track absolutely corona making everything more difficult we've battled through the ifsc and the organizers here in moscow trying to make everything as safe as possible for the athletes the judges the spectators but we are here we are competing and it's almost time for the men's final alex some big names competing in this final dimitri fakarianov he qualified in first position he'll be out last nimrod marcus is our first athlete from israel your teammate the first man we'll see on stage you know him well yeah how will he be feeling in this moment i think he will do great he's so relieved you know he's in the final he just thinks about the climbing and what's special about nimrod that he just really purely into climbing he doesn't care now about you know what he's going to say and what he's going to post on instagram and how he's going to look you know he's just gonna go out there and give his best and try to enjoy the route and i think this is what will give him the advantage because he's not nervous you know he's he's already here he's just have here to have fun and usually the guy who has the most fun is the guy who does uh the best so saying that he's the clear favorite to win the comp pro probably not because you have sasha lemon and you have a harness but he definitely can so i'm excited and i'm gonna cheer for him and uh he'll be nice yeah every athlete competing has a chance as we saw you need to get close to that top to have a chance of winning the level of these athletes so so high reset is pretty much nailing that one i think in terms of that route we saw separation we saw drama we saw the athletes getting closer and closer to the top will the men's route do the same huge expectations here as we wait the music building up yeah right hello at home if you're commenting on this live stream if there is a question that someone wants to ask me i can i can answer while we're waiting exactly we have a uh we have a captive athlete in the commentary box here he's an expert if you're new to climbing if you've got a question about climbing about comp climbing specifically do you want to ask alex keep it clean and i'll be able to ask him your questions we are minutes away here as we look and stay in the speed wall on your left hand side of the screen there that final took place at the beginning of the week which seems like a lifetime ago now but we did see a world record broken on the right hand side of that wall julia caplina with a new speed climbing world record in a qualifying round caught me unawares my first time commenting on a speed comp i wasn't expecting a world record to go down exciting moment for me wow yeah definitely exciting even more so for her of course julia caplina getting that speed record but today it's a turn of the lead climbing slightly more sedate than the speed but just as intense yeah something interesting about the preparation of uh of limbo to this competition that you know i don't know about how other people trained for this company i know about him oh myself we really uh use the different tactics to train for this comp and we we went a bit outside of climbing and we did some movement uh trainings with the ollie our physiotherapist and we did a lot of uh movement exercises to like be more aware of our body like handstands and flexibility i think it really helps like these days the the roots are so diverse and so dynamic you know in bouldering especially you never know what you're gonna have suddenly you can have a new move that you've never done before like a pon penta dino and then you never did that so you need your body intelligence to count down and it's something that i see more and more in athletes that they use different ways to train not only on the on the wall it's interesting you said it because i think often we think of training as just fingerboarding or grinding away at the gym but yeah full body awareness flexibility dynamic movement all that plays a part in these routes i know a lot of people watching are locked down or certainly not able to use gym so hopefully it's a bit of an escape for you as we look at our list of athletes coming out nimrod marcus he'll be out first but i slavenko as we scan down that list of names all the way down to the number one qualifier dimitri fakirian of he'll be last out alex question from our youtube collective what's the warm-up process like for the athletes before they go out to the wall uh so this comp is is unique because this time we had limited time on the wall you know to warm up all that is yeah yeah yeah the warm-up wall because of coffee we had restrictions of how many people can be on the wall at the same time so we had like time limit for a warm-up so it changed a bit but usually in a normal day uh no in covey there we have um you start with a full body warm-ups you do some cardio then you do some stretching or some movement and you go on the wall and then it changes between the disciplines for speed you do more explosive moves for bouldering you just start with easy boulders and you progress your way up and you try to warm every style so cream slopers maybe some shoulders and for lead most of the athletes like to do some boulders for the start and then they do circuits so you get a little bit of the pump before you go on the wall to reduce the chance to have a flash pump you know we have flash pump usually maybe some of the climbers that watch it they know when you're not warm enough and you go on the lead route you start to get pumped really fast so to avoid this you do the warm-up right the light show has started we are minutes away ladies and gentlemen from the lead men's final we've already had high drama in the women's final victoria mexico crowned double champ having won the bouldering finals the other day wonderful achievement for her so emotional in front of her home crowd but now it's time for the men to perform as if the tension wasn't ramped up already we've got dramatic music we've got lights here we go nimrod marcus from israel as he strides out onto the stage already air climbing all ready to remind himself or as we say bonnelle he's looking calm as you said doesn't seem nervous seems prepared this isn't immoral you never see a facial expression oh it's always uh ready watch out for this first part of the route it is tricky immediately to start with here even though they think the athlete's right i mean that's sloppy left hand tiny little volcano hold let's go come on here he goes left foot up nice and controlled to start with just easing himself into this route as he makes his third clip this route curving to the left to start with then coming back to the right a lot of core tension required a lot of body tension it looks quite comfortable the whole shocks almost every hole looks strong three moves away from our first uh big challenge which is the the dynamic move oh well i think it's dynamic move we didn't see anyone doing it but yeah according to the root setters it is a bit of a jump you can do this first move statically apparently and then as he does and then you have to drop down you'll see now a little pop nice two ways two ways to do that static way or a full jump to that hole depending on the athlete i think it was smart to to stop he looked quite strong and now he can shake and it looks like before it was the intro to the route and now from this position it's gonna start you know the the pump is going to build and uh all right here we go oh wow catching himself he bumped up with the right hand i just had a small heart attack man wow [Applause] nails it the second time dropped down nothing wrong with that as long as he didn't fall off up to these slopers not a lot on these as he cuts loose again rotating the right hooking the left toe underneath that volume just to support himself on the wall [Music] yeah scary moments there all right right heel hooks he puts that little slip behind him chose to clip quite late [Music] nice come on right now he chalked just his right foot on the wall two points of contact again cutting loose such a dynamic route this is so confident nice this next section of the route beautifully designed it kind of drops down to the left then curves back up to the right as you can see those big purple volumes topped with the pink crimps bumps his left hand out now he's got to work his way out technical climbing with very little for the feet as you can see another cross through come on come on come on nice nice nice thinking that was a hard move up there wow power screams way up he's frightening now come on nimod hold 31 for him nearing the head wall of this route now [Music] wow giving it everything in his final part of the route as he enters the white section good fight wow about five holes from the top [Applause] my score 34 plus i think so yeah 34 34 plus i didn't quite catch it we'll get confirmation of that score in a minute he's happy he's happy he climbed well he climbed with confidence he did some hard moves i mean uh yeah i think i think it would put them in a quite good position the move uh yeah the moves on those pink screws were so hard and so physical and he looked quite fresh yeah he really did i was surprised how often he was cutting loose how often he was just using his shoulders to catch himself mid move he even managed to flick a water bottle off hopefully we'll see his moment the scary moment where he went up dropped back down again oh that was that was so scary here we go this is it pops up slips comes back down catching himself wow alex what does it take to recover from something like that because psychologically it's got to be a setback surely at that moment yeah for sure i think it's more of your general this was a hard move i just wanna this was a hard move um you know it's i think anymore it's just water is really having fun climbing in this route and i don't think it just rattled him too much exactly he has a really good mental game he's happy 37 plus is the confirmation of his score we shall see if that will be enough seven more athletes out in the wall next russian climber vladislav shivchenko as nimrod just gets himself settled down in the athlete's holding area that is that climbing in front of his home crowd as he walks through the curtain gives a little wave and immediately focused 22 years of age i keep saying that he's not 22 years of age 22 years old his moment in the spotlight is he looks up familiarizing himself again with the route it's been a while since he's seen it silence drops into this stadium as the tension builds for him big number in his back he goes popping up to start nice little running dynamic pop as he clips his first draw pressing with the shoulder it's not a give me this move forgive me i should say but now we get started with that sloppy volcano with the cross through and for the double clip you can see just stretching out have to clip all those quick drills remember no good just climbing i think all got to be clipped and becomes the right hand you can see our scoreboard now if you're just joining us nimrod marcus set the benchmark high for the first athlete out with a 37 plus yeah really high on the roots nice to see the first climber demonstrating the route let's see what the rest can do yeah crossing through choosing to static that movement here comes the dynamic pop catches it nicely takes a moment to compose himself as he bumps his hands stretches up with the left foot this guy is a classic lead climber he has a huge amount of endurance if you've seen the semi-final um he he looked quite pumped and at some point he was just looking like you're gonna was gonna fall i think chalked for two seconds and fresh again so one thing that uh when are we gonna see him fighting you never know if it's actually like the end or it's just a phase yeah certainly something we see from these russian climates this moves insurance makes a lot of problems okay okay yeah i think it's just deceptive is really overhanging that section further away than some of the athletes think i think into the slopers is the eyes out there next hold trying to get as much skin as possible on that slopey surface [Music] looked calm it looks strong there's a lot of endurance as i said flexible one thing that defines russian primers is flexibility he absolutely had a high tow hook there just steading himself in as he goes almost horizontal to make this clip pretty much horizontal what shot that is as nimrod watches on big swing left techy section of the route here now before it was just an intro watch for these footstops as well feet do peter out at this point as you can see just a little swap and across through [Applause] looking tired as he gets that right he looks tired at this point [Applause] he looked a bit he didn't see it on camera i've seen from here he looked a bit like he's snapping the ball it did not change so much because he was just before he fell but uh yeah yeah not meant to step on any items in the wall time will tell we just kind of missed that in the camera angle so hard to tell from our position we are quite far back from the wall so we shall see vladislav chenko his night is done i think he got a bit reddled uh like he looked quite calm quite strong and he got this move and he suddenly was strange in his body and he looked hard and he was not decisive enough yeah looking slightly annoyed with himself there as he goes to the athlete holding area but you can see the pump in that man's bicep those veins popping out of his arm nimrod marcus still in the lead at the moment two athletes gone six remaining as we watch a replay of this dynamic jump you're right rattled i think is the right word for it you can see even then just not quite getting that hold as he would have wanted yeah exactly and i think we're just gonna see it uh in a second but on the top of the route he look look how calm he's just all right everything is good i'm strong look at him everything is good and then once he got his heart moving suddenly just you know sometimes it's it's shocking how a move can like be a stopper yeah you can see that just never quite look fist bumps all around as the athletes strap on their masks and they just chatting through their experiences now 32 plus for currently lying in second place but six athletes to go i think we might see that change perhaps as he enters the stage really strong performance from him in the semi-final round and all together in the lead comp a boulder specialist medalist in world cups last year uh and one more guy the unlucky seventh place in bouldering and now he's in the lead finals redeemed himself yeah from team slovenia he had a crew to his teammate winning the bouldering gold the other night the second best team in this comp i love an unbiased commentary what can i do i'm trying to be uh you're being very professional you're doing good you're doing good right anja unleashes himself on this wall making that bottom section which is tricky look very easy shakes out the hand big right clip up he gets established with some cross throughs victoria the women's winner is behind me [Music] big swing making it a lot easier than vladislav made it look yeah but but you know as i mentioned before seventh place in the bouldering but uh you know boulder specialist the boulder uh world cup medalist and uh yeah i would not imagine anything else from him the only thing i wonder is his endurance like you know you know the moves are not hard for him but then we'll see how the endurance thing takes endurance definitely playing a factor in these lead routes they're long they're winding 15 meters high that lead wall coming into this section still looking fresh for him yeah it looks pretty good you can see those tick marks on the wall just designed to help the athlete out a little bit not give anything away but just there's a slight hidden hold or a point they need to hit it just gives them a little clue as you can see that thumb on that tick mark there shaking out he knows the crux is to come he's an experienced climber he'll have read the route well trying to save himself for this moment now as i said before the horse part starts once you get a ping hole today the action is where now he needs to fight every move he needs to really you know push himself push the palm push push his yeah he's trying to cross through we see him fall in the same place as vladislav did it's a hard move and i think it was a mistake that he crossed below his hand but good climbing yeah you could tell as he came down sort of slight grip as he looks up just trying to work out what went wrong with that one so nimrod marcus still in the lead it's a good performance good report yeah he came out strong three athletes gone remember they have six minutes to climb us through the time not being a factor so far in either of these routes which is always nice to see i hate to see athletes getting timed out by the clock always better to see them yeah i think the route this route is not built for uh timing i mean there's no place to rest really except after the jump and it's so low on the route you don't want to waste your time yeah it's relentless isn't it she's got go go go on this a lot of people saying on the live chat that this move is going to decide the medal and that might be the case i think so and if not this move like two moves after there was a move that nimble really squeezed his teeth and jumped and i think he's also removed there's a decisive one you can see they're crossing through perhaps a slight mistake in this cross left foot is so close to the ball this ball is so annoying uh andre almost touched it and uh you know attached it for sure and it's just so annoying you know to have those bolts yeah it's another thing for the athletes to think about because they look up having a chat thing that uh the routines did in the women's uh semi-final route is that there was one ball that was really annoying and they blocked this with this run they really blocked the ball so you cannot step on it right martin stranik all right legend 30 years of age excellent outdoor boulder as much as an indoor competition amazing boulder he's so strong like i feel like he's not appreciated enough for his sense outdoors you know he does hc 80 passes all over on shitty limestone as well with humid conditions about that swear word from alex he's emotional as we see martin moving up onto the route now crossing through with the right hand makes that clip look easy yeah martin a true legend of the sport finalist in a few uh lead world cup so he's quite experienced in climbing in uh in a final route again climbing with confidence the star doesn't look so problematic [Music] yeah there he goes crossing through onto those blue volumes this is the jump all the athletes deciding to go for the first half statically and then the pop as you're about to see no swing at all he just stopped himself there didn't he yeah he looked a little bit rattled in terms of where to put his feet but once he went for it it was smooth and uh no problems at all yeah martin stronic he's uh really strong in his fingers so he's definitely a one to watch when we will uh arrive and hopefully he will arrive in the crack section and a pink hole yeah crimps are small holes that the athlete has to literally crimp their fingers onto you'll see an example of that in a minute well as right now he's on a sloper a big flat hold requiring more friction lots of different types of holds and the route setters can use whatever they want in their devilish bag of tricks to challenge the athletes as martin crosses through he's just below that section that alex was talking about that crimpy section as he makes a low crimp looks quite strong but again this is just the beginning of the heart section all right here we go goes down with his feet looks confident yeah you can see the close-up shots i see chalks up trying to get look at how strong he is in this room incredible let's see how he works that section out we've seen the last two athletes slightly struggling as he makes the crimp look easy and losing his feet and as you said so strong of the crimps alex isn't he yeah he is oh [Music] just a slip of the foot good work as he comes swinging down to the stage alex you called that i mean such finger strength you saw him he lost his feet at one point it was just there on those little crimps martin slanek will just get confirmation of his score in the middle minute nimrod marcus still leading the way as we're at the halfway mark of this male competition there he goes going back smiles to the camera nice to see alex when you finish the comp like this is it easy to let disappointment or frustration just go or is it a feeling of relief that you've done your job and that's all you can do depends um it depends depends on your result it depends on the way you climbed uh it depends on your expectations for me lead uh if i do well i'm happy if i if i fall because i'm pumped and i fall and i feel like i climb well i'm happy but again if you if your favorite twin let's i mean look at this he's just his foot slip he looked really confident strong he could do this move i feel like and um so martin's probably a little bit uh disappointed yeah 33 plus score for him he puts his mask on this competition of course taking place under corona virus regulations so all the athletes use their own root ropes and there's strict rules backstage and up at the front as well as we look at the scoreboard nimrod marcus leading the way with 37 plus martin stranick second place currently we've just seen him climb 33 plus anja perhaps in third place with 32 plus that's your medalists currently all can change though four athletes to come and of course the four strongest athletes in theory from the semi-final routes in theory but uh oh it's gonna be hard to pass high points we going to see a medal for israel time will tell hello to everyone back at home listening we're coming at you from moscow this is the european champs and we're on the business end of the lead finals we've had the women's final victoria machemco being climbed duel doppel champion having won the ballroom earlier in the week and there is nimrod marcus currently in the lead as we see a little catch-up of the action so far from the men's comp [Music] right here we go halfway through this competition for the men hannis pullman comes to the stage from sweden he has been looking on incredible form all week he's been topping out roots he's been looking a bit like a god out there let's see what he can do he just reminds himself of the task ahead good evening to everybody watching time is 8 30 here in moscow i hope you're all having a lovely afternoon or evening wherever you are in the world or morning all right let's see hannes puman one of the masters of league climbing in his comp great shape in his competition yeah he makes that bottom section look very easy as he speeds through six minutes of course on the clock he's had 30 seconds [Music] coming up to this dynamic section of the route changes from left cuts back right as he reaches up to make that clip every athlete so far choosing to static this move as he does with the left hand then comes the jump nice [Applause] yeah no worries so far from hannes i can feel alex getting nervous next year i'm sorry i cannot talk so much it's fine don't worry i got you as addis goes upside down he inverts himself with a knee unique resting position fair play to find that as he drops back down to a more conventional resting position yeah i guess it's not a really important position to rest because uh all right he's taking his time though he he wanted to smear his way he wanted to like smear and jump this hole but then he looked and i think they're quite surprised of how far it is yeah he's almost going to campus it now which he does comforting of course not using your feet just slamming up with the hands yeah hard way to do it it is a hard way will he regret that as he moves into this sloppy section starting to breathe heavily now hannah's pullman possibly in trouble as he speeds up i think it's just his style really i don't think he's in big trouble yet i wonder what is this compass uh going to cost him but you know he is in a great shape and he is a good lead climber and he can recover and he can shake a bit yeah all right two more moves before the action reel action starts we're gonna see you know the the hard part all right here we go crossing down here most athletes choosing to do it in a fairly similar way just crossing through bumping that left hand and now the feet run out now the crimp starts to hurt you went below i don't think that's a good way of doing it [Applause] wow outrageous strength on display here as he gets through that section wow hannah's pullman you just gave us a heck of a show that was wonderful crazy nimrod is in a crazy position perhaps not the most perhaps not the best way to climb that route but certainly entertaining we saw an upside down inverted knee bar we saw an outrageous catch on that final hold top action from hannes pullman all the athletes giving us a show here tonight so pumped he can barely undo that rope there you can see there's one of his coaches what a beast and you guys on youtube commenting along as well yeah beast power nice save yeah both myself and alex raised our hand as he caught that move in shock that he was still on the wall crazy hopefully we had to see this resting position here he got into a very very unique position as you can see bringing that right knee almost in a figure four style movement as he bumps it forward and then presses look at that he presses his foot into his other knee in order to make that knee bar work love to have seen a replay of that again but instead he's on the crux and we'll see this catch this save in a second here it goes look at that losing his foot adjusting that left hand crazy he got a bit tired here yeah he got pumped i i don't think he was that efficient in his climbing that he could have been but he was so strong all the way really good performance and his way of falling is incredible he did that in the semi-final as well yeah i'm not sure i care about efficiency when it's that much fun harris pullman 34 points for him look at him smiling i enjoyed that i hope you guys did too back at home sasha layman is out next from switzerland compact athlete so strong let's see what he makes of this route [Applause] well coming into this comp the probably the clear favorite to win uh you know world cup winner and stuff but uh you know it's climbing and everything can happen this is the second time russia has hosted the european championships hopes to do it last time in 2006 and they are put on a great show for us today as sasha lehmann starts off yeah as i said quite a compact climber perhaps shorter in stature than some of the athletes we've seen it'd be interesting to see if that makes a difference in this route but him and nemo are always almost the same height it's uh yeah well probably in the lower range of heights we have but you know i wish people said my height was lower range they usually just say i'm sure no but you have the range of climbers here you have some climbers that are 190 and you have climbers that are 160 165 absolutely yeah high not really making huge the smaller climbers are much stronger in the arms and uh so yeah yeah exactly now sometimes his advantage and sometimes it's a disadvantage the magic of our sport is not one type of body kind of thing everyone can do well sasha layman's static out again here's a little pop and a swing and the catch straight up with the left foot we're seeing less and less athletes go up for that heel as we come through the competition more choosing to rest with that left hand of course they don't get to see the other athletes competing they don't know the different beaters now's the heel as he takes the other hand off what's the best resting technique for you alex is it just stretching the hands out or whatever i like to shake my hands probably about a few seconds for each hand but uh i'm not the greatest lead climber alive so i i'd rather just uh i'm a way up and boulder my way up but uh if if for rest i i like to shake yeah i like to shake my hands yeah so was talking to you na crude the bouldering champion early and he was saying the same thing he doesn't like to rest because he can't because he just needs to get it done all right sasha layman as he cruises through the bottom half of the route into the business end of this route different uh clipping position that we've seen before [Music] yeah crimping with his right hand as he brings his right foot up all right one more move and we're in the pink section again and where's the action starts again there we go all right let's see if we can pass the the stopper room yeah it's coming up we've seen a few athletes take the swing from the next couple of moves will you get the beater right we know the cross through isn't ideal how pumped to see sasha fighting through this move we saw hannah's do a very similar thing sasha managing to make it stick so strong what bit of problem with the clip and he takes the first place sasha moving into the lead well not yet 36 on our scoreboard as he struggles battles there he goes up into 38 he is in the lead now power scream great performance from him now he needs to mental somehow sasha layman coming into the top half of this route now as he peels backwards good job is that going to be enough for sasha layman he is currently top of the leaderboard with nimrod marcus in second wow [Applause] sasha a lovely man sticks his tongue out to the audience fantastic job from him are we going to see a top of this route two athletes to go i mean yeah maybe from from dmitry yeah i think i mean if uh if nicole could do a top i would be amazed not because he cannot do it though because he just he wasn't the bothering finals two days ago and i think he he's bleeding from every finger so if he can climb it with tapes and top it it would be like a new level yeah we have had a long week of here climbing here the athletes battling fatigue battling skin but still performing under intense pressure here in moscow it's the men's finals women's finals earlier in the evening make sure you catch up on that and there is nimrod marcus as he sees his high point taken by sasha interesting how sasha did the same move this same hard move well nimor did it looked like not so bad yeah sasha power screaming his way up he makes it work and here we are one hole from the top taking that swing slapping his legs as he comes out he knows he was he was a good performance sasha lemon guaranteed a medal at this point with two athletes to go this guy for me is the star of those five days the only guy who did i think he did speed finals as well he did three finals in five days wow nico cola of belgium i cannot imagine how tired he is right now see i mean hats off yeah i christened him the hulk very early on in this competition look at the size of his lats he's a big strong man let's see what he can do six minutes on the clock as he gets going one of two athletes remaining belgium gets us started hello from around the world if you're joining us [Music] welcome to the show [Music] let's see what he does this first section proving no problem so far as he works his way through reaches up makes the clip bumps that right hand down into the undercling as he takes a moment to rest to chalk up left hand here comes the jump oh 15 style points for there yeah that was a one-armed catch lock-off there as he jumps over we'll see a replay of that after sure how smart that was but uh definitely cool very cool demonstration of his power the guy is strong man yeah he is he literally caught that in a one armor locks it off and then pulled back on awesome to see breathing hard though now as he compasses this move as well why not up he goes muscles straining as he makes this work into the slopper section looks a bit more tired than the rest of the athletes yeah we saw him working so hard down early on has this cost him slightly shaky on the feet though he's finding a good position to rest to snatch at the hold a little bit as again he cuts loose okay likes to cut loose but again i'll tell you horizontal for this clip into the crack section he's having to move quick now battling that fatigue [Music] here we go this is the move that has been stopping a lot of our athletes here tonight as he crossed through as well he's gonna have to do this outrageous left-hand move [Applause] ah what a scream from nicola as he bumps his hand up this has been a fight from the very beginning makes the clip how much more energy has he got to give wow super impressive wow man wow makes the clip how is he still on the wall [Music] flags out left he spies this slopper [Applause] what is he eating man what he was he was already screaming on the black volumes and then he did the hardest move ah that was incredible it started off with a one-armed lock-off jump and it finished with an outrageous catch yeah as he sighs how he's still standing i want to see his fingertips please tell the camera to see his fingertips i'll get right on it russia panned down immediately yeah round of applause i'm tapping in what a moment wow damn man the guy is a star definitely yeah it truly is incredible scenes here in moscow as we watch a replay of some of these moments i wanted to see that catch but we're not going to get it but he comes into the slopper section here i was waiting for him to say oh and there he goes oh you see and yet somehow i was like you know i didn't want to say anything because i'm you know cheering for nimrod to get a medal so i don't want to spo you know i don't want to say you know but i was like no way is going to do this move that we see now like no way now he's he's pumped and then he did that move and i think okay nowhere he's going to do the next move and let's go and he screamed by clipping yeah he just kept on monitoring that was the move and then this here look at how hard he's having to work with that left-hand flag he slaps out to the slope and just peels off i mean ah i think he's very surprised himself really just shows just don't give up do not stop what a moment did you guys back at home enjoy that ah right i'm gonna calm myself down here i'm pretty i can't get too wild but let's call out of belgium shows us his hands there you go you were asking for it that was his fingers alex shredded is the answer okay one final athlete to go sasha layman in the lead as dimitri fakirianov he comes out onto stage russian athlete 26 years old [Music] okay heart rate's down ladies and gentlemen let's start this again can there be more drama is it possible to have more drama being displayed at its highest level here in russia as dimitri steps onto the mat chalking up a running jump start for him of course [Music] dimitri crossing over into those volcano holds way sloppier than they look on your screen almost 45 degrees down at that point just having a little bit of difficulties here as it works out the best way through this section his style is so slow and so you know in control but it feels like the guy has endless amount of endurance endless like when you see him climbing a lot of the cones and and his fingers straight is insane like incredible yeah it was interesting in the semi-finals i thought he sort of undercooked himself he was so slow as you say resting and then suddenly something happened and he just clicked into a different gear he looked like he's gonna fall banana said you know i was watching him and uh you know nervous because i had to have two people fall before me two in order to advance to the finals there was two spots away and i was like oh i mean this doesn't look good he's gonna fall probably and then uh once he got to the crimps it was game over the guy he was so in control yeah don't write him off at any point as dimitri fakhirianov he makes the jump the jump looked hard for him a bit he's not a specially good bowler i mean from what i know but again he's uh he's always looking in the clock now we just look at the clock because tends to climb slow and he can rest on the pink holes even so yeah an athlete he truly knows his own style i think just shakes up upside down casually how can people be so casual whilst their head hanging over that drop but he's managing it just shaking out resting taking his time we knew he would he's building the tension for us here in the commentary box and you guys back at home you can see sasha lehmann setting the high score 41 plus can that be beaten will that be beaten up he goes getting knees involved now briefly all right i think he's going to go now he's going to put a heel hook close to the hand or he's going to i think he's going to try to almost campus we haven't seen athletes do that there's the heel now dimitri is he in trouble of course he's not up he goes to the crimp no but he was not confident on that move i think is really really wants to uh yeah he wants to make sure he's just a hundred percent doesn't he i mean it slipped down though that early on the route would be so disappointing dimitri's struggling with beta a little bit but his face is showing no real emotion nice and crazy right his face is crazy no not not putting the foot on the hole remember demetric has another level another gear if he chooses or if he can engage it resting with that high high heel now just showing alex what you were saying earlier about flexibility being key look at that yeah flexibility and endurance like the two things that russian league climbers accelerate right here we go crop section let's see how he does it makes the clip and then also check his feet on the boat yeah keep an eye out for that you're not allowed to touch that bolt he's going to have to try to avoid that just checking out this route trying to be careful all right here we oh go does he drop down like that [Applause] right look at his finger wow so strong static where others were jumping up he goes with the left onto the head wall of this route still looks like he's got energy to spare here shaking his chalks up right hand on the crimp right now he cuts loose for pretty much the first time on his route as he goes up with the left struggling shaking [Applause] [Music] the only thing i wonder is a bolt i've seen a bit of a touch of a ball there probably will be an appeal sasha layman the european champion wonderful moments with sasha both you and me alex in this stadium we were just in awe of sasha layman as he topped that route and start he's going to be crowned the champion here in moscow for the european champs oh my goodness i take a huge breath at the end of this final as nicolas call out heroics from him sasha layman congratulates him as well we're waiting for confirmation of the final places but such a look at him so happy so revealed to me he deserves it you know sasha i mean definitely i really want any more to win i'm not gonna lie to anyone in the stream but sasha totally deserves doing he does i hope the champagne corks are popping in switzerland sasha lehmann is your champion here in russia alex kazanov next to me my name's matt groom and i'm going to be running across the stadium in a bit to interview the winners all right it was a pleasure guys thank you so much cheers alex i'll see you later mate have a good one cheers alex for joining me he's going to go congratulate his teammate now ladies and gentlemen what a competition sasha layman from switzerland he takes the win for the men while victoria meschkova takes the win for the women wonderful wonderful moments here in moscow we see a replay of dimitri here as he takes a big swing down to the ground waves to the crowd [Applause] right guys i'm going to leave you and go and interview sasha keep on chatting on the live stream i'll come back and say goodbye before we sign off for tonight what a final what a moment let's go and see what sasha has to say [Music] um [Music] um must be more [Music] sasha congratulations you have just been crowned the lead champion it must feel absolutely incredible yeah of course it's a crazy feeling uh climbing here finally in moscow on this amazing route amazing lead wall um yeah just overwhelmed like wow every move we were thinking you were gonna pop off and somehow you kept going the pump must have been intense up there how hard was that route yeah the route was pretty hard especially on this little crimp stair but yeah i was just in the fight mode the only thought was yeah just the next hole the next hall go on and fight well from everyone back home watching and everyone in the stadium congratulations a well-deserved winner yeah thank you very much thank you [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] hello ladies and gentlemen i'm back in my commentary box lovely chatting to sasha there we see a confirmation of our winners victoria mexico but she is crowned double champion having won the bouldering competition elisa adam scover she's second molly thompson smith she picks up the bronze medal wonderful third place for her and for the men sasha lehmann first place with 41 plus nicholas collar in second and dimitri fakirianov in front of his home crowd in third place what a competition that route promised a lot it looked visually stunning and it proved to be massively entertaining as well remember competition climbing does not go away here in moscow on friday we have the combined qualifier and on saturday is the final for the qualifier where those olympic tickets are up for grabs so set an alarm clock set a reminder in your calendar have a well-deserved day off tomorrow and we will return soon for more action from moscow the organizers here just setting up the podium do you let me know in the comments if you enjoyed that competition what was your favorite moment looking back just hard to pick a favor really there were so many moments of heartbreak and drama we are waiting for you guys just waiting for the athletes as we see our stadium three bouldering walls of course the speed wall and the lead wall and all three will be in play later on in the week for that combined finals do you have that please come to us and shake your eyes there's the podium lit up the awarding ceremony great to see climbing being streamed across so many platforms of course live in the bbc the olympic channel youtube of course and again so lovely to see the whole kylian community getting involved answering questions supporting the athletes it's a different world we live in now ladies and gentlemen requires a different approach wonderful to see climbing really representing that here tonight in moscow [Music] is [Music] [Music] [Music] federation of sport blind creative singular molly thompson smith [Music] [Applause] [Music] foreign [Music] victoria [Applause] [Music] ladies and gentlemen the state and him of the russian federation [Music] right ladies and gentlemen i'm going to be leaving you now i've got to go and do some interviews get some admins sorted out thank you so much for joining us on the live stream it's been a pleasure talking to you i'll be back on friday don't go anywhere i'll see you soon laters guys [Music] [Music] welcome to the awards ceremony of the european climate championship 2020 in the discipline lead among men [Applause] russian [Applause] belgium [Applause] foreign [Music] [Applause] switzerland [Applause] [Music] ladies and gentlemen the state and theme of switzerland [Music] [Applause] [Music] inaudible [Music] [Music] molly what a fight and congratulations on that bronze medal how did you feel out there today thanks matt oh it was so amazing to be back out um feeling the nerves before climbing feeling the like tenseness at the beginning and then calming down a little and of course the fight at the end you look so confident and calm climbing that route i'm sure it wasn't like that out there just talk us through your emotions up there on the wall um well at the beginning i was quite nervous because the start was quite unusual and i think the root setters wanted to stress us out a little bit and like keep us tense and then i started to relax once it flowed a little more into the climbing and then it was just like next hole next to old next door keep fighting well congratulations enjoy your medal and enjoy your day off congratulations thank you very much sasha congratulations on your win this is the first comp back for a while after covid is it good to be back on this world stage um how much does this gold medal mean to you and to everyone back home watching me um um awesome well enjoy your break you deserve it and congratulations again merci fumo thank you nimrod you were first out and for a while you were sitting in the hot seat how nervy was it waiting for the athletic athletes [Music] has put a stop to competitions for quite a while now we're back has it been different climbing with all the new regulations and what is it like to be performing once again congratulations once again and good luck in that combined competition at the end of the week you

Channel: Russia climbing

Views: 95,755

Rating: 4.9397202 out of 5

Keywords: ifscmoscow2020, climbing, boulder, speed, lead, combined, moscow, ifsc, rusclimbing, russiaclimbing

Id: N-07KUhKdaE

Length: 160min 55sec (9655 seconds)

Published: Wed Nov 25 2020