I mean it's not THAT bad...

what's this some people call that a swamp anchor which is a really weird acronym stands for shelf without a master point if you know a better one let me know we'd love to hear a better name for this kind of an old school way to make a redundant load distributed anchor up we broke one strand but you're still on the other loop that's pretty cool kind of been replaced by the girth hitch Master point but one kind of cool thing about this is it lets you make a two-point anchor if you only have a 60 centimeter sling one question about this is how much if any does this knot weaken this anchor we're going to find out oh good enough for me to do anything on for climbing I'm impressed which is pretty darn close to the 21 kilonewtons of the regular sling so that nut is clearly not having much of an impact on the strength well John's setting up the next one how strong is strong enough for an anchor if you are trying to have a strong redundant equalized no extension type of anchor Serene then how strong is strong enough well if it's as strong as the Carabiner you're putting on it super good enough if you make it twice as strong as the Carabiner you're putting on it it's great but it's not necessary it also meets the Redundant requirement and very little extension let's break this wow okay that was six kilonewtons let's see if we can untie this all right John go for it so you do that and then you just grab two of those strands we'll do those two right usually you rotate it so the knot is kind of away from the rock kind of like ah top so it's not The Knot's not abrading against gotcha okay [Music] now you'll notice the entire thing is breaking it's not uh redundant when you're taking it to 20 kilonewtons it's redundant if one of these sides were to get cut by a rock magically falling on your anchor not hitting you or your partner causing other problems CIS nylon [Music] hey John come get this knot out oh you there Mr Steel fingers [Music] we didn't do the untying test okay we just pulled this to five and a half kilonewtons ignore that please so the dyneema was medium to hard but possible this after being pulled to six is actually pretty easy to untie so this this is actually a stronger anchor and easier to untie when you do this in a nylon sling what happens if that got cut [Music] it started to roll at three and then a little bit less but that requires a constant load there's not always a risk of this getting cut but let's say this was a cam and you had two cams here or two sets of two cams and this came out we're gonna leave the Carabiner intact and see what happens if this cam magically fell out [Music] thank you 9.51 see how it was rolling and then when it got jammed it did go up to here but that's Moss or minerals what happens if the nylon gets cut [Music] well it's still unrolled albeit at a higher Force okay what happens if a cam comes out on nylon foreign enough to just break that and then slower than I was expecting how often do you see people use swamp not too much been kind of replaced with the girth hitch but it's still a good tool in the toolbox I still like using quad anchors but that's because most of the time I'm big while climbing and not just multi-pitched sport or trap I'm curious if you guys use this and if you like it yeah this is what I'm doing it might yeah we did this in this video we didn't scare people the girth hitch I think we did good though

Channel: HowNOT2

Views: 79,742

Keywords: Highline, highlining, highlines, slackline, slacklining, slacklines, ryan jenks, how not to highline, hownottohighline, highliner, slackliner, tutorial, how to, rope, webbing, rigging, rig, extreme, SlackSnap, break test, bolt buster, boltbuster, break tests, stunts, world record, slo mo, climbing, science, mythbusters, carabiner, daredevil, rope swing, rope jump, big wall, gear, climb, rappel, spacenet, cams, anchors, hownot2, how not to, linescale3, extremegear, caving, canyon, sport climbing, gear testing

Id: 5z1pA7BKiQw

Length: 4min 37sec (277 seconds)

Published: Wed Jun 07 2023