I Installed The Cheapest Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner On Amazon In ONE DAY

hey guys in today's video we're going to show you how to install a Cooper and Hunter mini split system in a residential home from start to finish so let's get right to work all right so our condenser is going to go there and right inside here this is where our head is gonna go and it's just gonna cool this space additionally it just doesn't quite cool as well as it should all right so as far as our electrical what we're going to do is we're going to install a new breaker run our MC cable up and over there's nothing to run inside of this ceiling and the customer said it's fine to run it kind of like the garage wire and then we'll go out and we'll do weatherproof cable so this is a GE panel as you can see we have open slots so we're just going to put our 20 amp double pole breaker here and that will give us 220 power so this is the Rector seal wall mounting bracket system I wanted to show you what all is included here so it does come with concrete anchors and it comes with wood lag bolts so if you're attaching to wood or any material that you can use the lag bolts also this has pads as you can see so we don't really need to use the ones that came with the kit we can just use these and basically all we're going to do is we're going to measure the width on the AC unit and we're just going to mount this dependent on that so what you can do is go ahead and figure out your height you can mount this and then you can line this up with wherever your legs are and as you can see there's adjustment here that gives you an idea of how this bracket will be mounted so let's go ahead and lay this out on our brick wall so our back our bracketry is going to go something like this we don't want it too high up against the eave so maybe something like that and then so since we're going into this material we're going to be using these lag bolts and as you can see they're I think a half inch so I wanted to show you something that's really beneficial about this client tool is you can remove these bits and you can attach them onto your drill and so you can have a half inch driver so that's a huge advantage to having this Klein screwdriver if you'd like to know where to find that go to the video description click my favorite HVAC tools and you'll find this nut driver as well as all of my other favorite HVAC tools there all right so we are using a drill bit that's just slightly less than the threads on our lag bolts we've got these three for the right bracket laid out so I'm going to go ahead and drill these let's go ahead and Loosely put our second bracket on 17 and three quarter and we have wiggle room here so this doesn't have to be exact but we're close to 17 and three quarter there so let's go ahead and make sure we're level and then we'll make our hole Marks here all right so our width on our legs is about 11 inches so we're going to try and keep this as far away from the wall as possible looks like it's going to be about there's where we're gonna have to put it is good to go all right so now that our condenser is mounted the next thing we're going to do is lay out the hole we've got it marked it's actually going to be right where the condenser lines hook up so if you notice on the back is our bracket and there's a screw right here that you need to remove once you take that off you'll push in on these little tabs and this back bracket will come off so let's go ahead and do that just going to take this screw out and we're just going to pull down on these tabs right here which will allow this bracket to come out this is what we're going to mount on our wall so as you can see my redneck method this is centered on this unit the Mr Cool unit was not centered it was off like this so if you mounted this Center on the wall it would not be right but this is completely Center so we're just gonna use this zero point here and we're gonna Mount that exactly in the center of our wall where we want it and then we can locate our studs to see where we need to put this okay so we have our wall bracket here this is roughly where we're gonna put it so we're gonna look for our studs this is just a rare earth magnet it's called the stud buddy and you just kind of go until you find a screw there's obviously a stud here so we're gonna go ahead and Mark that so our studs are there the other thing you want to keep in mind with these is that you need to have six inches of distance from the ceiling so we're gonna try and mount this as high as we can probably about right here and as you can see these are lining up right with these holes on the outside so that'll be perfect and we'll have plenty of support there and of course we want to make sure that this is level and we're just going to go ahead and Mark where holes are this is the chase that goes into the wall and it's a two and a half inch so you're gonna have to have a two and a half inch hole saw bit so I'll maybe purchase that beforehand so you don't uh get into this job and not have it so let's go ahead and make our hole in the inside all right so we've got this laid out uh just one thing to keep in mind is we're going to do this slightly at an angle so that when our condensate line is connected the water will naturally flow slightly down you don't have to get crazy just a little bit and we're gonna run our vacuum so that we're not spitting out a bunch of dust here [Music] all right so we're just using a hammer drill here with a small bit again we're just using this kind of as a pilot so we're gonna follow the trajectory of this angle it down a little bit here foreign bit wasn't quite long enough I'm gonna have to buy another pilot bit but we measured this several times to make sure that this is exactly where we need to penetrate through the wall and we pushed it down just slightly so that we can follow that trajectory so we're just using a hammer drill here and uh it's pretty straightforward you can choose to use water on this so it doesn't create as much dust but we don't have great access up here on the roof but this should be a pretty quick um quick drill if you're going through concrete block it takes a little bit longer but bricks typically don't take that long they're not quite as hard so we're just going to line up our hole here and let it rip so our hole is done all the way through now what we're going to do is we're just gonna feed this in this is just going to act kind of as a protectant against rubbing against this brick we're not too concerned about the wood or insulation on the inside that's not going to do any damage but this brick can definitely damage the line set so we can put a bead of caulk around this set it in place and then we'll be ready to run our line set through okay so this is something that I recommend that a lot of the other videos don't show um that I just I like to do so we're gonna go ahead and pop this cover off and this is going to allow us to move the refrigerant lines so that they're straight up and down 90 degrees so if this unit was mounted like this the refrigerant piping will come straight out and just do a 90 like this so this is what I like to do um a lot of people just say to bend this to where it's 90 degrees I like to actually cut the insulation at this Bend and just verify that there's no Kinks if you don't you won't really know and you could get the system put in and have problems and that would definitely not be good so what we're going to do is we're going to slowly Bend these pipes actually I might just go ahead and cut this all the way down and we'll reattach this later we'll just kind of get that out of the way and you're just going to slowly work this 90 degrees and you're just gonna physically look at it make sure there's no Kinks thankfully these lines are small enough that they're really hard to actually Kink so that's not a huge um possibility but it is there so once you have that and you've confirmed that there's no Kinks we're just going to go ahead and re-wrap this all right so this is another thing that I recommend that a lot of other videos don't show but um if there's any sort of Gap here even if you wrap this with the tape they give you and it condensates you could end up with water running down your wall I've actually seen that on other installations um so you want to make sure that you get all of these gaps completely sealed I don't really care for the tape they give you so I use Gorilla Tape this is the best stuff it's a little bit more expensive but it does not come unstuck and I I definitely prefer it so just make sure you don't have any gaps here tape it really nice and then once you get to this point you can tape these together but I always like to tape these separate and then you can attach these just so they're easier to fish through that that chase now as you can see right here you can choose to put your refrigerant and condensate piping out the side depending on your application and if you wanted to do that you would simply need to knock out this little Tab and you can run your piping out there all right so now that our line set is ready to go the only other thing we need to attach is our communication wire so all we're going to do is just pop this little cover off here just like that and as you can see we're just going to have three communication wires and these are our ground terminals here so we've got this fed through the back side just for reference this is the correct end these ones will go at the condensing unit and so to start with what we're going to do is take this block off this is just like a strain relief so it keeps these wires from moving around or potentially getting pulled out of the socket so we're just going to set those that aside and these do not matter as long as you just match white if white goes to one just match it on the condensing unit white to one and so on give it a pull make sure it's in there good we'll do red to number two just like that and black to number three and lastly both of these are ground terminals so we're just going to take our green like that and that is it folks so you can take a picture at this point put the cover back on and then just make note of it when you hook the condenser up so let's go ahead and put this back on so that's done go ahead and close this and we can go ahead and hang it on our wall and it should be a permanent installation once we put it up all right so we've got our communication wires run into our hole that we just punched and next what we're gonna do is we're just gonna continue feeding that out and we're gonna feed the refrigerant lines in with it all right so what we're going to do is push this in and we're going to angle it slightly to where this hook grabs on to that guy make sure that's in fully and then you're just going to gently push on the bottom and as you can see they just snap into place just like that all right so the head unit is installed and that's the finished product all of the communication wires are already pre-installed so it's going to make our connections outside and we're pretty much done with the head unit in here all right so our head unit is installed this is what we have on the exterior we have our condensate drain and being as this is going right onto the roof we're just going to have it drain goes into that gutter down there so that's really easy let's go ahead and take this off so we can access our refrigerant lines here all right so everything is done on the inside we just have enough room to where we can make our connection right here which is fantastic we don't have to connect this and then fish it through so we have our line set here with our two flared fittings and this should still be under pressure so when we take this off you want to hear that nitrogen come out that means that there's no leaks in the evaporator coil so that's exactly what we wanted to hear so what we're going to be using is Nylock blue this as you can see is compatible with all refrigerants it won't contaminate anything so what we're going to do is we're going to put this 9 gonna put a little bit on this flare joint right here just like that go ahead and attach these now you don't need a torque wrench for these you just want to Snug them up don't get them too tight they don't have to be crazy tight you can choose to use a adjustable torque wrench if you want to but generally just snugging these up will be okay all right so next we're going to do the same for our suction line here put a little bit of nylog on there all right let's go ahead and make our connection here we got just enough room to get our adjustable back in there to hold it tight before we put our flange on or finish insulating this we're going to do our bends here so this one's gonna go to this one so we're going to make our cut here and we're going to flare that joint this one let's go ahead and remove this and we'll re-insulate it before we're done here just going to do a gradual Bend here so this one's gonna be about right here so what we're going to be using for these flare joints is the navac flare tool now you can choose to use a manual flare tool like this one but I'm choosing to use this guy if you're doing a lot of Mini Splits this makes this process super easy so you have these different bits here different sizes this one that we're working on is a quarter inch line and it has uh this little lever to where all you do is hold this in place and while you clamp it it gives you a little stop there so we're gonna lock it into place on this piece and then we're just going to press the button there and it will do all of the flaring and everything for us now we have a readout too if you press this light button that shows what your battery percentage is we're at 100 so before you do this you want to make sure that you have the flare nut on already so we're going to go ahead and remove this guy right here and then we're just gonna pop out this little tab here slide that on now we can do our flare okay so we're just gonna slide this on just like that lock it in place make sure that your arrows are lined up with the lines that indicates that it's fully seated and press our button [Music] and just like that remove this and as you can see beautiful flare joint really nice smooth surface on the inside there and we're ready to make our connection you don't really have to put any on this once it seats it'll get it on this surface as well just gonna go ahead and make this connection we'll give that a snug so that one's good to go and we're going to go ahead and make our cut for the second one here so I forgot to show on this one but we're going to ream these before we flare them just to make sure that we get a nice flare and that basically just gets the little lip off of the Inside Edge right here doesn't take much okay so we're gonna feed our flare nut on here now we're going to take our half inch fitting slip it on slide it until we hit that make sure it's good and snug slide this all the way in in place and press our button [Music] beautiful flares every single time beautiful all right so we're just gonna slide this back over like that get our nylog put on here and we'll make our connection so that's one advantage to Sliding this out as far as you can as you have a little bit more wiggle room with your line set all right just gonna double check this one here all right both of these are good to go so our system should be ready for the pressure test so the next thing that we're going to do is we're going to run our communication line so this is basically going to run through this guy so pop these two all right so we've got our mounting bracket here we have our strain relief just so you can see the part number for that it's a half inch NM cord connector and basically it just seals this and makes it to where there's no movement and nothing is rubbing against it so we're just going to go ahead and strip these wires back so we're just going to match these with what we did on the indoor unit so white was on number one red was on number two and black was on number three and lastly our communication ground will go to here and then our high voltage ground will go there we're gonna leave that until we get our high voltage wiring done so what we're going to do right now is just temporarily attach that right there we're going to go ahead and do our pressure test and then we'll come back to this last with our high voltage wiring all right so we got our nitrogen tank here and this is what we have to use on a lot of mini splits that have a 5 16. this is larger than your standard residential service port and as you notice there's only one on the suction line so this is going to be a 5 16 female that threads on and it has a Schrader core depressor and then this is going to be a quarter inch which will be the same as your typical manifold hoses and it also has a Schrader core inside so we're just going to take our yellow from our manifold we're going to hook it up to our nitrogen and turn on our manifold here and we're just going to take our low side make sure there's nothing still in here and we're going to hook our low side up to this guy make sure these are closed turn our nitrogen on as you can see we have plenty of PSI we're going to test this at about 200 PSI so we're just going to start feeding in nitrogen on the low side through the blue hose this shouldn't take much because our line set is only about four feet long all right so we're going to let that stabilize for about five minutes and then we're going to use the tightness feature on our s-man gauge all right so this has been sitting for a few minutes we're going to go ahead and press the tightness test press enter to start so as you can see our timer has started and this is going to give us our pressure drop so we're going to test for about 10 minutes and we'll see where we're at we're starting at 207.98 somewhere in that area all right so here's our panel it is a GE panel and as you can see we've installed our 20 amp breaker here now the way that these are laid out if you have a double breaker you have to give it a gap so that you're hitting both hot legs so that's why we have this little Gap here but on our panel you'll notice on our cover we left this here because you it's not up to code if you have an opening without a breaker there because that's an electrical shock hazard so we've got our breaker put in what we're going to do is we're going to tap into one of these half inch tapouts we're going to run our MC cable up and we're just going to follow it along the same same path as this black cord and we're going to run it straight down out of the wall and then we'll do a weatherproof conduit up to our disconnect all right so we've got our breaker wired in we've got our black and white wires attached there our ground is going to the ground lug and we're just doing conduit here we're just going to run it all the way out to the exterior there where we'll put our disconnect so we'll show you what it looks like we're going to go ahead and pop this cover on all right so now that we have our new breaker in here as you can see there's no gaps and we're good to go so we're going to go ahead and get our MC cable mounted nicely in this corner and then we'll show you what it looks like once we get to the outside all right so we've been working on the electrical inside as you can see it's been one hour and 18 minutes we're still at 207.9 so we're peachy on the pressure test so we're just going to make sure everything is turned off here and we're just going to crack our yellow line and let all of the pressure out and then we can start our vacuum all right so we just got our hole drilled through this brick we're going to mount our disconnect right here which is um probably the easiest point to disconnect this if there is an emergency instead of having to climb up there on the roof and then we've got our weather tight conduit half inch conduit we've got the wire pulled through the proper length and we've got one fitting so this straight fitting will come out of here and our conduit will come up and over up to the unit and then we're going to cut it to length and connect it at the unit all right so we got our disconnect wired up for our load side so as you can see on the panel here load so the AC unit would go on the outer two and line from the house we'll go to the middle two lugs so we've got this pre-wired once we get our wire stubbed out here we'll connect it to the line side and then we'll be good to go all right so we've got our 5 16 Schrader core removal tool this not only is a 5 16 but it goes from 5 16 for a mini split down to quarter which is what our uh typical hoses are going to be quarter inch so really nice tool to have for Mini Splits then we have this ball valve that we can isolate our micron gauge in order to let the refrigerant in and we have our CPS micron gauge the true blue massive hose to the navac 4cfm pump so let's go ahead and cut it on it's 416. starting our vacuum so let's see how quick we can get it to where we need to be this vacuum pump has a slow start it can run for 60 Minutes on a full battery this is a 9 amp hour Milwaukee and I've got them uh Makita to Milwaukee adapter I've got a separate video on how I made that work but if you're curious on that leave me a comment in the comment section so I can typically pump down a system in 10 minutes that means this system will pump down over five systems on One battery charge which I really love so we just got that opened up again it's 417 so let's see how quick we can pump this down this line set is only like three feet long so this shouldn't take very long at all I forgot to mention two obviously the Schrader core has been removed and uh one thing that I want to mention on these is if you go to attach this to your Schrader core you need to actually give it pressure and you will feel this click into place and then you can remove your cord um because otherwise if you don't feel that click the Schrader core will not stay stiffly in this Rod here so we're at 110 microns already and it has been two minutes all right so we're at 48 microns we're gonna go ahead and isolate I'm gonna shut down our system so the line set is now isolated we're at 100 microns we're going to let this sit for about five minutes and as long as we don't rise above 500 microns we are tight and then we'll be ready to go ahead and let the refrigerant from this pre-charged unit into the line sets for any of you that are wondering all of these condensing units Mini Splits as well as residential systems are all pre-charged and they're set up for up to normally it's about 15 feet I'm not sure what a mini split is um as far as how many feet it's good for but we should be sufficient we might actually need to recover a little bit on this one because the line set is so short so anyways we're going to let this sit I don't have any I don't see any indication that we're going to have any sort of leak so I'm going to go ahead and disconnect my vacuum pump and the last thing we have to do is get our electrical hooked up here we've got it routed we just have to run it along and connect it right here all right so our disconnect is installed so we have our wires coming from the garage going to these middle two and for the AC going out here everything is sealed back behind behind there and we can go ahead and pop our disconnect in all right so that's done we have our liquid tight going up we're gonna follow this all the way to the AC unit and then we will be ready to go all right so it's been 10 minutes we've risen to 230 so we are tight as long as we're below 500 we are totally good so with that being said the last thing we need to do is open up our valves and what I've been told is to open the high side slowly so that's what I'm going to do just gonna crack this line I had my ball valve up against the things I couldn't close it but I'm convinced that these are not affected by the refrigerant so um half the time I don't even have this but I just recently got that ball valve so we've got that one cracked we're going to let it sit for a second and then we'll open this up all the way we've had this one cracked for a couple minutes now so we're gonna go ahead and fully open both of these and we're just going to loosen this until it seats and you don't have to go far past that just get it to where it stops and you're good to go so next what we're going to do is we're going to pop our Schrader core back in and then we will be ready to finish our electrical and we'll be done so what we're going to do here is slide this in thread on this end piece we're going to open this and you notice that that kicked out now we're going to feed it in it's kind of hard to do with two hands or one hand but tighten that till it's snug and that's it pull that back out next uh something that I always try and make it a habit of don't go ahead and remove this remove this piece first a little bit of oil came out there and slowly open this to make sure that that valve core is doing what it's supposed to be doing there you go so sometimes if your valve core is not fully seated maybe you thought it was and you went ahead and removed this and all of your refrigerant comes dumping out when you take off your core tool so another thing that um I make it a habit of doing all right so this is the last thing we've got our um liquid tight here we've got line one line two and ground all of our communication wires are set up so we're just gonna put this wire holder back on put this on and we will be ready to fire the system up well she's up and running pulling tons of heat out of the condenser very very quiet I'm standing right next to this thing and it almost just sounds like a fridge so customer is super happy how quiet it is and it's going to give them the extra capacity for that living space they want to cool it overnight and uh it's gonna be really nice for them oh guys the system is up and running we got everything sealed up here this unit is so quiet um it's amazing they have a really good product um this is again a 12 000 BTU heat pump so customer is really happy and we just got this job wrapped up now if you're interested in seeing the installation video on a Mr Cool mini split that has the pre-charged line sets really easy to install even easier than this system check out this video right here and we're going to show you how to do that install from start to finish until next time you guys be safe later

Channel: The DIY HVAC Guy

Views: 582,773

Keywords: mini split, heat pump, how to, mr cool, air conditioner, ductless mini split, mr cool diy, do it yourself, air conditioning, mr cool mini split, installing a mini split, mini split reviews 2021, hvac, diy hvac, how to install mini split, cooper and hunter, cooper & hunter, daikin, goodman, fujitsu, mitsubishi mini split, mini split heating and cooling, mini split vs central ac, heat pump installation, mini split installation diy, ac service tech, diy, air conditioner repair

Id: tRYWR5bh-Os

Length: 38min 6sec (2286 seconds)

Published: Wed Jun 28 2023