Husqvarna chainsaw common air leak

hey there viewers welcome back to ray of all trades next on the bench is a husqvarna 55. it's the maiden sweden version this one is in really good shape sporting a twin dogs on it and looks like a what appears to be a 18 inch bar with a 3 8 chain and looks like a 0.058 bar that'd be pretty cool i haven't seen one of those in a while still got the spark arrestor screen in place like i said it's in really good condition complaint is that it uh bogs down whenever he starts getting into cutting wood so i put about half a tank of fuel in it let's fire it up see if we can duplicate the problem and try to chase it down from that point let's see if we get it fired off am i taking a few extra pulls it was pretty empty oil got a small flathead screwdriver for adjusting if i need to um if we do get it adjusted i'd like to find out why it wouldn't have adjustment so we'll choke on make sure that we are not in the stop position so it runs that direction put my foot in here to anchor this one does not have a decompression valve on it it's got a hole for it it doesn't have one they've got a lot of compression [Applause] let's do a half joke hey oh sounds like she's running a little bit fast let's get attack on there ah [Music] [Applause] hmm so okay so the rpms are definitely too high um this one is uh reading for a two cylinder so it's basically doubling my readings but um if you took 27 000 and dividing it in half would be roughly thirteen five and it seemed like it was still trying to climb what i noticed is uh when i tried to fatten up that's how you adjust uh the rpms on these so on the high screw you would adjust it fatten it up to lower it and then more uh lean it out you would actually tighten it in and that would bring the rpms back up so um i think what's occurring here is that the saw is attempting to run too lean which would explain when he was trying to cut um the sound sounds great right now put it under load but if we get it if it got hot it would start to burn the saw so it definitely is running too lame so we need to fatten it up a little bit it could be from uh seals leaking could be several other things so my next step i'm going to try to spray some brake cleaner around this while it's idling see if we have any evident leaks that show up uh if i can find that the easy easiest way to fix this i can pull these plugs the limiting plugs and i can fatten it up the question is am i band-aiding something and that the answer is probably yes it was running great before otherwise it's not running right now so i'm gonna try to spray some like i said brake cleaner around the base of the cylinder uh the carburetor the intake itself the intake boot back behind here and then try to reach these seals in here if i can so once behind the flywheel very difficult to tell but generally spraying around this area without getting it into the air filter will usually yield a little bit different rpm and you can start to dial in what's going on there so let's get some brake cleaner fire back up safety glasses are a must there's a lot of air and stuff coming up and will spray this stuff up in your eyes yep i've got a intake leak here that immediately shut the engine off yep so we've got an intake leak right here where this carburetor meets so most likely it's the base gasket of the carburetor or it also could be the carburetor itself made that the throttle on it may have too big of an opening on that throttle where the shaft goes through the carburetor opening and closing the throttle that should not have stalled out like that so anyway that's what we're gonna chase after so let's uh let's get this taken apart see what's going on uh most likely we're gonna throw a carburetor kit on this and seal up everything clean it up see if the problem goes away and go from there so the achilles heel of these saws was this plastic intake so it did most of these saws in so if you're going to work on one of these always use hand tools and don't over torque stuff allen wrench four millimeter loosen these up pay attention to how tight they were because you really don't want to go beyond that this base screw goes into a magnesium case but the rest of it goes in the plastic and finding these parts oem is a struggle okay looks like a factory zama carb this throttle linkage out just set it down let's get the choke lever out set it down so it came off of here pretty easy it's got liquid in there and this gasket is extremely wet so i think that this gasket is probably our culprit yeah it's got a lot of dirt both sides most likely that's our problem is this seal to the carburetor and probably rebuild the carburetor fuel line doesn't feel too bad but the second most common problem i've seen on these is the intake boot goes from the cylinder to this plate that i'm taking off right now coil wire about the way ignition kill wire up out the way be very careful taking this off and putting this back on very fragile this right here is your intake boot there should be a screw there it is right down there as you guys can see it there should be a screw right there let's pull that out and then this has two barbs on it just lift those out of the holder and we should be able to pull this intake off so i'm just wiggling back and forth off of this rubber boot that i was just talking about so on the back side here we have an impulse jet this right here will line up with a rubber boot at the bottom of the cylinder and then the intake boot the intake boot lines up on this they have a habit of getting stiff over time not sealing up properly so if you don't have a replacement boot i have been able to use some 1184 and seal these up but no matter what let's get it cleaned up really good and uh this actually seems to be pretty decent shape anyway let's get it cleaned up really good talk about putting this thing back together first thing i'm gonna do is vacuum all this out of here though [Music] okay so the reason i was using a vacuum versus using a compressed air is because right now the bottom of the cylinder is open um if i wasn't confident or i thought i got debris in there you want to make sure that it was completely out and if that's so you would pull off the four base bolts um again uh i think that was a t i think it actually might be a t5 on those um excuse me a five millimeter not t5 uh five millimeter allen pull those off you want to resell the base gasket and make sure that you don't occlude this uh port down here which is your impulse line hole so like i said these parts or fees are getting a little bit more scarce to find so one of the tricks i like to do is uh put a little bit of 1184 on this cone right here so as this gets pushed in it makes a seal down here and then i also try to take a little bit of 1184 right here on the edge so when this goes on it makes a seal down here and then also a little bit of 1184 up here so that it seals up around that side so around this part so it seals up around there and just basically gets rid of any kind of vacuum leaks and then when you put that on expect that it's going to be on there for a while so i'm going to take this part away from the saw and try to clean this up a little bit more with some compressed air and get some uh 1184 ready so that we can seal all this up 1184 also known as three bond um yamabond honda bond uh goes by a bunch of different names it is a sealer that is made for gasoline it won't dissolve under gasoline works really well stays pliable a really long time and just be very very cautious with it and use sparingly only enough that's necessary so like i said i'm going to put a little bit around the mouth of here and as that gasket goes on it's going to push it the rest of the way on and make it seal up here this intake slide it on and just mash it flat make sure that nothing popped up in the middle there now on this part all right so i've already cleaned all these areas with a brake clean just make sure it adheres real well just want a really thin coat um about an eighth of an inch back nope that didn't work okay an eighth of an inch back just to make sure that it doesn't get in the way of the impulse line this impulse line is what drives your fuel fuel diaphragm on your carburetor and let's just put it right around here you can almost see where that gasket was so okay you have to work to get it between that little small area right there but you won't want to miss it that will cause a leak clean that area up make sure this rod's out of the way i want to put push this out to the outside so that you can squeeze this in here and watch that i get the impulse line and the breather excuse me the intake boot all in place all at one time without getting a bunch of dirt on it um there we go so i made sure that the intake went in properly let's go ahead and anchor this in place while everything's still wet has an opportunity to dry in the right area let's put this air injection snorkel back up in place that's the air injection portion of it this fan is pushing air up here blows air out here and that's what keeps your air filter clean cleaner longer on these saws awesome sauce love them i actually own a few myself and all my friends more courses no need to gap the coil i just cleaned it up i mean you guys saw how well it ran so all that's in good all shape let's look at the carburetor i'm fairly confident we've already found the problem i'm pretty sure looking at all the debris that was on both sides of that gasket i think it was already somebody already had it open and just didn't tighten it up all the way i'll clean it up all the just way pull the vacuum on here there we go looking up the gas cap that should stop that fuel from running so um uh a lot of dirt on that side on the breather side not a lot on this side she ran really good i would like to i mean the gaskets all feel really good so i'm just going to clean it put it back together and worry about stealing that uh let's talk about carburetors real quick so fuel comes in the carburetor right here comes into that jet right there or into that hole comes out that is on the reed valve side the fuel gets pulled up through that filter that filter right there there's a screen that you can pull out and clean just through that filter right there up into this side of the carburetor comes up through that needle needle's right here what drives this up and down is the air hitting this diaphragm here and making this act as a fuel pump that air that comes up and drives that up and down it's coming from the impulse line that we talked about earlier that needed to be cleaned and then it's also coming through this part of the carburetor right here anyhow so that's basically your fuel pump they also call it a metering diaphragm because the pulsing is making that fuel um allowed to come through that jet metered so while i was doing that i got a little dust dirt in here let me clean that up too this looks fairly clean then put it back up what you're looking for if their reed valves are stuck in one place or you know there's dirt like this one had a lot of dirt in it i did not expect to be using the carbon choke cleaner otherwise i would have grabbed a set of rubber gloves and everybody who tells me that i should have had them on you were right i should have had them on i'll make sure that's clean working like it's supposed to basically working like it has the ability of pumping up and down this key way holds that in place i like to get these fairly snug especially on a used gasket these are your limiting plugs so when you adjust them they're made to only give you so much travel um when the saws start to get old you just grab these with a pair of pliers and pull them off and then you can adjust it to ear i really think that this saw once we fix the problem will actually work and um that if it doesn't that's when i'll pull these plugs off if i don't lose any more fuel i'm going to go ahead and put this fuel line back on the carburetor what do i want to do about this at a minimum i know i want to clean it i don't think i have one of those gaskets in stock i'm considering just making one real fast i keep a gasket material on hand i'll make those let's make sure that the there's no threads hanging out i think that's where the biggest problem comes into play on these when somebody takes it apart it pulls those threads out of here and it holds that gasket from uh the carburetor from fully seating down there so you can kind of see it sticking out there get a little razor blade and trim those up so okay so on the carburetor see that hole right there that's the impulse line hole that lines up with that hole in the gasket which lines up with this slot opening the air comes out of here works its way across that channel and then through that hole i want to be able to seal all that up without putting excessive torque on this plastic screws i think what i'm going to do is again resort back to the 1184 and put the thinnest possible coat that i can across it i'll put it on my fingers and just try to smear it across what i'm worried about is that that hole will get occluded if i have too much material in there i'm worried i'm really worried about that hole getting included so um i want to be extremely cautious around that the right thing to do here is replace the gasket the the oem gasket is a fantastic condition gasket or excuse me it's a fantastic gasket the replacements are similar to the type that i that i make that most people make they're okay they're not quite as thick so see i've got a giant glob on there right now let's see if i can get majority of that pulled off of there just gasket up both sides of this thing just the original gaskets were just on these were really good the aftermarket's not so much okay that's pretty thin layer on there very humid day so this stuff is tacking up really quick [Music] so on this one the choke lever goes in just like that comes up that direction screw holes go through there and there the choke lever drops up into that groove right there like that and then i'm gonna be putting the fuel line through there throttle linkage is supposed to go right there just like that drop it down into this keeper here down that groove fuel line up in this snap down here choke lever up in here started [Applause] let's make sure everything works before we go crazy tightening everything up throttle works choke works throttle releases it okay i'm just gonna take my time gently going back and forth feeling for that sweet spot i like the feel of those okay now i'm going to anchor it down i'm hoping this is my last time in this saw let's get the kill switch back the on not in the way it's underneath that kill switch so there's no sharp edges are hitting it this sets down inside a groove it has a key right there drops into uh basically into a groove right so drop this in there just like that spark plug wire does the same thing goes into groove right there snaps up in there both come through here go ahead and put that boot on it'll hold things in place let's put this air filter on real quick and i want to blow out some of that dust and debris while we have it apart those covers won't go on just give that a quick tug and line up the dogs and put it back in place [Music] i've already warmed it up a little bit [Music] online uh [Applause] [Music] uh all right i like the rpms they're sitting uh right at about 13. um sounded if anything it might be just a touch high but it's all the way at maximum richness on the high jet without pulling the plugs let's see how it does in the cut um uh [Music] uh [Music] wow [Music] we'll call that a win as always guys i appreciate you hanging out with me for the day if you got anything out of the video a thumbs up and a subscribe always helps the channel let you guys know whenever i post new content see you soon you

Channel: Ray of all Trades

Views: 15,224

Keywords: Rayofalltrades, smallenginerepair, repair, diy, fix, troubleshooting, howto, engine, doityourself, lawnandgarden, howitworks, lawnmower, lawn mower, mowerrepair, mower, generator, electric, Auto, automobile, automobilerepair, Chainsaw, Husqvarna, stihl, echo, husky, husqvarna chainsaw air leak, chainsaw, husqvarna, leak, carburetor

Id: whOfqprd_P4

Length: 37min 12sec (2232 seconds)

Published: Sat Jun 04 2022