HS43 Making a tailstock 4 jaw fitting for my Harrison 140 lathe

[Music] welcome to hacks be shared i'm excited because the main part for my next project has just arrived i bought this independent four jaw chuck five inch 125 millimeters for 47 pounds delivered that's an amazing price i think and it must be good because it comes from china here's all the bits then for my next project have you guessed yet i'm going to make a chuck fitting so i can put that four jaw into my tail stock and the bits that we have for it are a great lump of steel which i got part of a job lot of off cuts and you can see that it's orange and we'll return to that a front wheel bearing from a fiesta mark one new by the way um we bought those for the car but actually we ended up scrapping the car and keeping the wheel bearings then this machinable mt3 taper so this is hardened and ground this side can be machined so let's talk about the orange i'll just get my chart okay here's my metals chart and hopefully if this will focus you can see an orange band there it's en 8 dm and when i look at what that is it's en8d but a free cutting version and i look at what that's for a medium tensile weldable steel fair resistance to wear suitable for general engineering components and what i should say is i'm going to use this lump to make the back plate let's start by marking out a circle on this back plate so i've got some idea what size i'm working to and then i can start roughing out the shape i've just done a bit of rough marking out and i've used this precision tin lid which is five and a half inches now i don't really want to have to machine all these corners off in the lathe it's going to take forever so i'm going to take these corners off first the corners off that block is a job for the trusty rapido and you can see why these jaws are not symmetrical this is cut away this is cut away so that you can rotate this to 45 degrees but i don't know if i can get it wide enough for that block i think i'll have to move this jaw back to here okay that's set up and ready to go the jaws at that angle are really just guiding that block the main force to clamp it in position is the g-clamp but i've also put this bolt at the back here so that it can't twist like that before i start i've just filed a nick in that corner there i don't want the blade shooting down here and breaking the blade so that's a little flat for the blade to sit on okay here goes right whilst the rapido's chewing the corners off that let's have a look what a design might be i hope you can see this so what i'm showing here is the back plate it's 40 millimeters deep the back of the chuck has got a recess in it which is six millimeters deep approximately the bearing is 53 large diameter 29 in inner diameter i think i should probably have about 15 millimeters of metal either side of that bearing so if the outer's 53 add 30 that's 83 so that collar size is about 83 i guess the screw heads here the cuphead countersunk they're about eight millimeters deep so i reckon another six will be enough making that 14 across there and so if we work across i think i probably want about three millimeters there so there is no hole all the way through can't be with the most taper three stuck in it so 40 millimeters minus three minus 37 because the bearing is 37 deep by the way um starts to build up a picture add those up you get to 20 here not the greatest explanation in the world but i guess you can follow it i'm planning to make the back plate a bit wider than the chuck so say maybe 130 maybe 127 something like that this machinable morse taper 3 is 40 diameter 40 long i'll only need 37 so i'm going to put a 3 millimeter collar on the on the back there saved a lot of work three more to go two down two to go this is easier to clamp but i'm going to have to move the jaws back to their original position and there we are even the sun's come out look i'm just checking for squareness on the sides that i didn't cut because i want it to grip properly in the four jar it's a big old lump and i don't want it flying out and actually all the sides are pretty square to each other if they hadn't been i would have put it in the shaper and squared off any sides which i thought were too far out i've just used the center point to make sure that the work is pretty much in the middle and centered and then the dial gauge to make sure that it's approximately flat which it approximately is i'm going to make this the back it'll be a big boss here to take this bearing okay that's just my cutting mark that's hacked it down to round you can see i put the center in but it's just a fail safe that's this side roughed out i need to make the hole in the center for the bearing and then i need to decide on my finishing sizes now i'm going to go through with this inch and 130 second drill which is the largest drill i've got which is morse taper three and this is also one that i sharpened on the large drill grinding jig and this is the first time i've used it since then so we'll see how we get on with it look at that very pleased with that did you see my video about the reamers that i bought from ebay and do you remember i said inch and an eighth can't really see me using that one but i also said that these can be useful when you don't have a big enough trail and you can step up in sizes that's 160 rpm you might notice this ring mark here i had to go previously with this beast a two-inch cutter this boring bar has a sandvik carbide insert it's the only genuine sandvik insert that i've got mostly i've been using the cheap ones you get off ebay i learnt a lot from the cheap ones but now it's time to buy the proper ones the expensive ones one millimeter is coming off that as easy as anything that's roughed out to 52 mil the bearing's 53 mil i haven't done any finishing cuts yet i'm not in the right frame of mind anyway i need a bit of concentration to do finishing cuts i've changed the design a little bit i'm not going to have this blind web here i'm going to make all of this the same dimension as the bearing which is 37. so it means i've got to take three millimeters off this front here another design change i've made is i'm making this collar here narrower i started with the idea of 15 but it would be too big so i've machined this down right now it would stand at 11.3 once this is poured out i might take it down to 10 and i probably will wait for my new carbide tips to arrive because really my advice is don't buy the cheap ones i haven't used a lathe for about 40 years and when i was an apprentice when i did use a lathe carbide wasn't around then it seems i didn't see any anyway so i'm just learning how to use those tools and i was happy with the cheap ones to start with but i've realized that um they're all right for practice but they're not that good for what i'd call proper work my new carbide tooling has arrived it's from an ebay seller called carbide direct and it's about half the price of the main brands i'll try it out if it's any good then my cheap carbide tooling will be going in the bin back in the machine shop with the new carbide inserts i've faced this i've faced this to finishing cut i've boiled out the center for the bearing for a interference press fit and i'm just doing a finishing cut on this front face here and the size of this boss gives me 11 millimeters either side of the bearing [Music] the side is finished i've made a small leading for the bearing so hopefully it won't all over as i'm trying to press it in now to drill the holes for the chuck screws i'll need to know the distance between these fixing screw centers so i've put in a couple of the cap head screws and if i measure the outer i come to 120.32 and if i measure the inner i get 95.87 if i take the difference in half here and add it to 95.87 i get 108.095 so i'm pretty confident these centers are 108 apart right i've made a center pot as best i can measure 10.3 in from that edge now that's the only one i'm going to pop why is that i'll show you well the reason is i'm going to use my indexing base which i made some time ago i made a video on it this is the first time i've used it so i'll line up with this mark this center pop here and then there's 24 holes on that ring this top ring and so i'll move around six holes center drill move around six holes center drill four times and then i'll check my spacing is 108 millimeters and on the same setup without moving anything i'll be able to rotate this drill the eight millimeter clearance hole drill the hole for the cap head screw and then i'll use an end mill a half inch end mill to bottom out that countersink for the cap head screw and i can do all those operations on the chuck still on this stand and i only need to start with one center pot i've centre drilled four holes 90 degrees apart and i'm happy with the spacing so i'll move on now to drill out eight millimeter clearance that's the four holes drilled and counter-bored to take the allen cap-head screws well believe it or not that went on perfectly miracles do happen now get it back in the four jar clamp upon this and machine this off so back into the four jar on the lathe clocking on there but also i need to clock on this back face here to make sure when i machine this front surface here that i don't get a wobble like that going on on the chuck i shouldn't have any problems holding this work in the four jaw but it is going around with a fair old clunk so just for safety i'm going to put this big pipe center in i've just machined a bevel on here to match this taper [Music] i'm having terrible trouble trying to get this to chip i've tried more aggressive feeds i've tried slower and faster speeds i've tried deeper and shallower cuts and every time i end up with this bird's nest so it's a black art i think trying to get these carbide tools to chip 9.7 millimeter cut 250 rpm 0.1 mil per rev and it chips a little bit when i was cutting this 0.7 millimeter cut it would chip 0.6 millimeter cut it wouldn't chip like i said it's a blackout with these carbide tools it's looking all right though i'm quite pleased with that half a millimeter and that's chipping really nicely now okay the chuck's on but i couldn't get all the screws tight from here so i've put this pipe center in just to hold it all together i'm going to machine the back plate now to this size i think [Music] the only thing to do now is to put it in the three jar the other way around and clean off the clamping marks from the four jaw one finished backplate the next step then is to machine this to go into there now to machine this morse taper 3 stub i'm getting close to final sizing now so i'm just gauging the inside of this bearing which measured it up at 29 millimeters exactly the spigot is at 29.4 you notice how i put the failsafe in again because this is only a morse taper three there's no drawbar and uh if i was cutting it could easily rattle itself out moment of truth i reckon the interference fit is about 2.8 thousand it's in just fine but it took a fair old bit of force and i've realized i'm going to have to machine a little bit more off the morse taper 3 spindle i'm ready to press the shaft in now i've been working on this for quite a long time this dimension i was about a 6.8 thou interference fit and that's too much i decided so i've been shaving off tiny tiny amounts to get me down to about two and a half thou interference this bearing in here is split as two cups and when it was on the car this bearing it was on a shaft with a big nut on the end to hold those two cups together the only thing that will hold them together in this setup is the interference fit so i'm going to have to make sure that i pack at the back here here it goes [Music] there we are i think that's okay put it on the chuck now i didn't actually say why i wanted to do this it's so that i could run something eccentric between two four jaw chucks i was watching youtube and there's a guy called david wilkes and he does some really heavy machining and i saw this great odd shaped lump of bar set up between two four jaw chucks one in the tail stock like this and i thought oh there's a project so i think it's rather smart don't you i hope that was useful to you thank you for watching hacks be shed you

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Id: 8ymJEvPZKCQ

Length: 19min 40sec (1180 seconds)

Published: Fri Dec 11 2020