How to weld 6G Copper Nickel Pipe Test Guide for Navy Shipyards

hey this is disgusting with Alabama pipe welders Academy we're bringing this training video today's to you two inch scheduled ten copper nickel ninety ten we have some guys work at austell and some of these other Navy shipyards that need this test to qualify to be able to be a pipe welder we look for some videos online we couldn't find one we just decided to do one ourselves but the first step is get this thing clean you see is getting it really clean wiping it down with denatured alcohol and using a flapper wheel that had been used on any other metal so we don't want any cross contamination on this also just keep it super clean after you wipe it down don't touch it with your hands here's a picture of our end cap for the purge and our root opening or gap it's not a sixteenth of an inch and pretty steep bevels there hmm some people like to but it up all the way like I said this is just a guide there's many ways to do this make sure you keep your tungsten sharp the Scotsmen tungsten sharpener works real well for this here's how we put the purge in don't just throw the hose inside the pipe and let it go you want to have something on the end to diffuse it also clean your wires with some scotch brite everything has to be real clean just touching your hands to it the oil from your hands can cause a contamination and just a dirty weld you'll see it kind of floating in the top of the puddle as we're running these uh the ruin here in these tacks it's got a real dead puddle I don't know if you guys can see it but as soon as it starts you'll see that the edge is wet out and that's it that's all you going to see and you'll see it start to sink down and that's when you start adding just a little bit of wire and we we had a amp set of eighty and we have a thumb rheostat it's on the thumb wheel it's the Miller rheostat to control your amps and as soon as we get up to about 75 we'll go up to about we'll go one hundred percent on 80 amps and then and then wheel it down about I don't know probably in between 70 and 80 amps just reading that policy and how fast it's syncing and what this pole is going to do is it's going to wet out it's going to have no movement and then it's going to sink as soon as you see it sink you want to add that wire and be moving do not sit in one spot too long because this stuff will wash out on you I want you to just be sitting there next thing you know there's a hole it gets no warning there's no color change that doesn't there's nothing that's just it's a timing thing you're going to have to practice with it and get this down to where you're able to do it here's a look our route on the inside it actually turned out pretty good we did have one bad spot and that's part of this train of view is we want to show you guys how to fix this spot if you ask by the dent I in or a fisheye or something he's on a table oh but we don't grind all the way through we grind I don't know 60 percent down and back into the root and that'll give us enough penetration there that it'll it'll wet back in just like it was never there and here it is was fixing the bad spot in the root and we did freehand this you want the tungsten straight in on this we didn't walk this at all we were trying to get as much penetration as possible to get the breakdown a little piece of wall that was left this is another thing clip-ins and your wires it makes a big difference as far as starting back up we ended up getting the spot out and I have a successful repair on that I just wanted to show you guys how we do it and I know that if you're taking a test you're probably going to have a bad spot because just be ready for it ain't nothing but a thing here's a putting the cap on like I said it's just a dead po you can see it it's just there's no movement to it wherever you lay it down that's where it's going to be at so it takes a little bit of getting used to but it ain't too bad once you once you deal with it a few times and it's a just a real dead puddle you all right would cap coming up to the termination at the very end of the Kappa I like to do a little thing is just I back up dab a little bit that builds up like a little kit where I can file down and not hit the rest of my cap and it cools the puddle and it all keeps you from having a fisheye and when you actually do file down your stock your final termination it's it's real you know a piece real cosmetically looks good looks better than just running out of it you can put your file on it and not touching your other part of the cap and here it is there's a cap we're a little rusty but it turned out good and then we cut it in after you take a look at the inside it turned out pretty good and unless the time they just bend these and they sand it down flush inside and out and then I had been four pieces and and that's it and you're good to go

Channel: Weld or Die Dot Com

Views: 103,208

Keywords: coppernickel, austal, gap, weldingtest, pipeline, pipewelding, tigweld, 6gpipetest, howto, weld, rootreinforcement, weldor, soldair, heliarc, ua41, powerplant, howtopass6gtest, weldingtipsandtricks, GTAW, pipe, welding, 6gtest, 6g, test, tig, tigroot, rootpass, root, closedgap, tigwelding, weldingschool, tipsandtricks, ua, plant, tipson6gtest, howtofit6gtest

Id: kubI39uQC0Y

Length: 7min 15sec (435 seconds)

Published: Thu May 25 2017