How to Use Exotic Burl Veneer

good evening and welcome to the shop here in beautiful Canterbury I am uh exploring the world of exotic veneers and or highly figured veneers uh they basically fall into a couple categories you have crotch veneer which occurs at the crotch of a tree like where a branch goes off you cut across that grain and it produces something like that so you usually get like a feathery grain that's kind of like let's say that tree went out like that it would be formed down there you would slice those little Wafers just below where the Y meets you find that really heavy figure and that's a beautiful material it's quite often used in sunbursts multi-patch Me multi- patch pieces you know usually it's of course an even number typically 8 10 12 uh 16 whatever this was an extra of an eight-piece match so that's why you see the number nine on there but then there's another kind of veneer that is really exciting to discover in the woods and it's you'll see this like bulbous growth on a tree sometimes it's just like this big ball it looks like a exterior brain on the tree or a Tor of some sort but it's actually a burl and it is like an area where the tree is reacting to a type of fungus and it just grows around it and you get this wild swirly Crazy Kind of Green in there and they're some with some trees they're quite large and they take take these big cuting of them but you know lots of times they're smaller and like so many things when it comes to tree you don't know what you're going to get until you cut into it and start slicing away and see what what you really have in there so some of the that fall into the Burl burish car category are this one this is a madrone burl and I got these from certainly wood these samples you can see down there this is one of my favorites to use is ambon burl it was um popularized in the art deco period of the early 20th century and it's it's got really classic look to it and this one what is this one camper Burl I've not I I haven't used that I this is just a sample that they sent and this one's crazy too isn't it like P it's got a pretty predictable pattern but they're calling this barley Burl I I'm not sure what kind of wood that is he's just got barley and quotes but you could check that out more on on certainly wood site they have a section for Exotics and burls and crotches and you can go in that section and read about or see the actual stock they have on hand and that's how I've decided to do some projects based on searching that stock and think oh my god there they had this red ambon Burl at one time that I got and I made numerous projects with it because it was so extraordinary and Lively uh it's not cheap but it's pretty amazing the effects you can create with highly figured wood like this now check out this one this is a Carpathian Elm Burl this is some pretty wild Burl and one of the issues you have as you might have detected with burls and crotches is that when they dry they're only a 402 of an inch thick most of them they don't stay super flat I mean this is like a gigantic potato chip and you have to deal with that you know like if I just tried to press this down it would crack all over the place and so we do like a pre-treatment on that now I'm not going to use for the purpose of demonstrations this carthan Elm if you want to see that check out playlist number two um but we're going to be working tonight with this veneer that I'm pretty excited about it's mappa Burl mappa Burl it's really an European popler tree it comes from a European popler I guess they must have a lot of burls on those trees because it's pretty it's pretty available but it I was checking the prices and it seems like it's gone up since I remember I I remember well it was probably 10 or 15 years ago I bought this pack off of eBay and it's quite striking it's really good quality what you're looking for is kind of like a an even distribution of these little dark they're like little knots or Pips and then you have regular grain which looks really wild like compressed curly or fiddleback here and there and then these dark areas it's outstanding when you get a finish on it it's just unreal and so you can pick up out where you want to use this and with wood like this even though it's small you can do matches like a book match like that or you can do a four piece match whether this one comes over here and then this one comes over here I don't know if I'm doing this well enough for you to see that but so then you would have kind of a mirror all around but what I usually try to do is number them before I start playing around with with how I'm going to arrange them because you want to keep them sequential so that in case you do some matching you're always kind of cutting the piece right next to the other one so the pattern doesn't change much later layer because it changes considerably as you go down through those layers so anyway that is what we're going to be using tonight now this would what has puzzled and puzzled me and I've wanted to find the best solution for this is what's the best way to fill those woods can you see those dark spots well they're not all knots a lot of them are actually holes in the wood let me put a light behind air this may screw you up let's see does that screw it up can you see those holes can you see the holes yeah look how many holes are in there all those little Pips have holes and that requires filling after the fact so I want to use this veneer but I had to solve that issue so we're going to take this veneer through our paces and just I just want to show you how I use a an exotic apparently Troublesome veneer like this to Great effects so let's get into it all right so the first thing is treating a piece like this you've got to get it out of the potato chip family and flat and more PL able in order to work with it and cut it and have control so they sell this material called veneer softener you can make your own it's some kind of some kind of mixture between water and glycerin and something else and honestly to by the time you gather all those materials and mix them all up it's just cheaper to me to buy the material uh we added links there's a place called veneer supplies.com check that site out what I like about that site is there's a lot of information on there that you can read about various types of veneer um veneer that's sold with backers and why and um you know you can get this veneer soften they have a lot of stuff like veneer saws and softener and all that so this has like a glycerin in there that's a key element which helps to soften and relax the the cells and the wood and you it comes at Double strength so you really I think you can get a quart bottle that's probably all you need but if you get a gallon it last you quite a while because you're going to cut it in half you're going to add half water to it and it works really well so what I do to treat this is I Spritz it on both sides I'm just going to Spritz this side I've got it mixed my half and half mix in here and because this grain is so bizarre like you've got side grain but you've got a lot of swirly grain the capillary action takes it really fast right through where the grain is diving down and you can you'll see it get wet on one side in certain places but not others so you just lightly Spritz it make sure the whole thing is wet through but you don't have to have it dripping wet but once you get it good and dampened you're going to set it aside I've known some veneer guys who actually have a clothes line in their shop and they they put them they just hang them up for a while okay so they put them on the line I usually just stand mine over somewhere and let them Fit until they no more moistures on there they they just feel they're not wet but they feel still like there's a dampness to the wood that's when you want to press them so I will take some type of paper if you have some heavy paper ideal you know if you can get some uh some kind of butcher paper that's thicker this is uh grocery bag paper the brown paper but if you have access that's a good absorbent type of paper but let me be warn you uh don't use the logo if you go to Market Basket like we do cuz it tends to bleed through to the other side and that will actually leech right onto your wood which I found out the hard way so um keep it away it didn't really hurt anything this is just this is why we do the experimenting right so I'm always advising use a test ped try this out before you do it and that will save you a little time but what I'll do is put one or two sheets on both sides and then you can put some heavy you could put it on a table with MDF on it put some weights on it but you know what I actually do I I put it in the vacuum press sometimes I'll I'll separate with boards and stack up a bunch with a lot of paper in between and this press the whole thing so that then when you come back the next day usually I wait till the next day I take it out of the press and I have something like this so it's pretty flat it's so much more relaxed you know it's just chilling here it's beautiful it's just different you know here you've got this is wet and but it has a still kind of a stiffer brittle feeling and of course the potato chips and then this has a little Wess there where I could have um I don't think I diluted that enough so but you don't want to wet it too much or you'll have some little oh look there's the uh the color coming through so we're going to glue that face down hopefully that won't be an issue on our test piece but I see some there too all right so now that once I take it out of the bag you know I usually use it the next day that M that glycerin does not harm the glue effects at all so no worries there I want to show you two ways of gluing down veneer like this the first one is the PBA method just using regular glue like you can use um the the three types you the white glue the yellow or the type Bon 3 Type that's more waterproof um those they're good glues but they're not they don't prevent creep over the long term so if you're going to glue something up with a lot of seams I typically will not use that I'd rather use some glue that dries really hard uh Believe It or Not of those three the one that creeps least is the white glue so um a couple glues that do not creep are one hide glue which is an older method um typically I'm using that in the hot form but not very often it's usually you want to use that to repair really fine antiques before 1950 all the glue was hide glue but after that pvas came in and you know beginning with like an Elmer's type of white glue and then they got more sophisticated with uh different waterproof techniques so we're going to glue down this with a PBA glue simple Elmer's and it'll work just fine but let's go ahead and uh we'll get our piece over we're going to use this little block but you know what I noticed before I put this down I've got a massive hole there look how big that one is so I'm going to have to patch that after and that's going to take some time so one of the tricks that veneer Specialists would have a nice selection of what you call veneer punches so we've got these veneer punches and this one's like 7/8 diameter this is an inch but uh the the guy I got these from actually made this one asymmetrical so it's harder to see that patch and then we got Clos to a half an inch all the way down to this round and this smaller I'm going to use this one because it looks like I can cover this hole with that okay now the key to veneer patches is your work from the back so I'm going to punch it from underneath and this makes really quick work of it you just got to do it in the right spot I just want to I'm really cutting it close here and so I don't want to miss getting that whole spot I think I got it right there and then you just tap it okay and then I clean that edge so it cleaned out a nice Edge there now I'm going to bring in my patching veneer and I've just got a scrap piece here I'm going to slip it under and look for something that looks kind of close with the color it doesn't have to be perfect this is very forgiving I mean I could put a little series of Pips like right like that that would be cool huh so let's do that I'll just use those and it'll look like another little I'm just going to cover that like almost looks like a cat's spw watch the light okay there we go and where's my wire hope I didn't put it away I did I want to push that out there we go okay now I'll bring back my piece and I'm going to take this little patch it's going to drop in right from behind a't that sweet how it goes right in like a puzzle piece because it was perfectly cut now the reason you work on the bottom is you get there's a little taper on those punches and it does create a little bit of a a line there but it's very clean and flatter on the other side if we look at it it's harder to see isn't it but because you have all those kind of patterns all over the place it kind of melts away and you can take your time and do like an incredible job matching it up but I just wanted you to see how fast that actually can go so just to make sure that doesn't pop out while we're gluing it down I'm going to put a little piece of tape over that but see how much faster that that was than trying to patch it after the fact it's just now it's a full sheet of aner we're all set to go all right so I'm going to use a little white glue don't want to overdo it and I'm just going to use this little roller this is made to attach on the top of a glue bottle but I'm always using it just freehand I like it's a hard kind of glue roller I need a little more there going to ask you a question I'm not I'm honestly not sure if it's related to veneer but it will be clear to you I'm sure um Margaret's asking I laminated African poduct and maple prepped for a finish card scraped and sanded cleaned and then wiped with cloth soaked in denatured alcohol Maple had pink stri streaks from Paddock after same happened with Spirit that's a good question I've heard people have problems with discoloration of maple around exotic Woods like that because there are like oils in a lot of those woods and like paduk like that you clothes has um a little of that oils in it but man I have not actually experienced that problem so I can't speak to why it's happening but um I've heard of things like that happening this is a good place to have some pitch and in here I need your help anyone have that experience with that problem with bleed this is also one of the nice things about being in the neighborwood we uh help each other out like stuff but so if anybody has an answer for that all right so I've got the glue on the surface I'm going to lay the veneer on there now I didn't make this perfect I know I got holes but uh just for demonstration purposes only all right Tom if you stain that will you see that punch outline I'm not sure I I would never stain this I don't think you would honestly you might you might if you use a pigmented stain that's where you it's going to catch in there but I'm thinking of a die stain whenever I would use something like this all right so I'm going to go right into the vacuum bag right here I'm just going to use this manual bag made by raw rocket we put a link to them too this is kind of fun to if you don't want to put a lot of money into a powered system which you can buy these different size bags and you just manually do it and it actually holds the seal like a regular powered bag has to keep cycling on because usually you're going to have some leaks but with this goop down here it uh it's amazing how it doesn't leak but after you use it a few times like I've done this one it might um I just try to get all the the potential spots where it might leak here and then they they do give you additional strips of this black tar likee material and uh you can reseal so you see you've got the valve here this is where we're going to take the the vacuum and you need the mesh so so that the air can bleed up and find a way so I'm going to just use the hose on the sander just to get some of this out of there here we go okay now I got the pressure and I'm going to finish the pressure with it should be sealing it's I think it's I think it will just make sure one more time Tom does the vener have to be used in a certain amount amount of time after being conditioned oh yeah that's a good question um I've usually you're going to use it in the next few days so I I have kept it as long as a week or more but if you keep it inside the paper I keep it for a while and it stays really uh flat and usable for quite a while but typically you know I I think you can go two weeks as long as you're keeping it you know flat between something kind of stored Mark's mentioning he uses contact cement have you ever used that with the vineer you can use contact cement I remember reading article when I first got into this it was in a book by constantines uh out of New York and they said never use contact C but you know like it was bad and uh I have used it and it it works it's fine enough in certain situations I just don't it's just so messy and costic that I there's too many other good options that I don't usually think of it um so I'm going to show you the other option and we're going to old school again we've done this a few times I don't use high glue a lot but it's involved in the filling process that I want to show you soon so let's do a little hide glue veneering I've got in here in my glue pot which keeps a temperature between 140 and 150 it's an electric pot but you don't need to get something this fancy I I've heard and maybe somebody can pitch in that these candle wax pots are less expensive and keep the wax at about the same temperature you can also use like a a double boiler over a little electric plate or something in your shop just put a little double boiler in there and I have I'm using a jar of my hide glue in a little about an inch of water that's in there and I keep this on and that helps to keep it from evaporating too fast because it will it will evaporate um and then all you have to do is add a little more water or hide glue as needed so there's only one remaining hide glue uh processing factory in America and it's called Milligan and Higgins and it's in Johnstown New York just west of Albany and they make it still from cow High and there's a whole process you can read all about it I've we've attached this article there's three articles on hide hide glue part one part two and part three and you can search them on Google it's from uh what was the Popular Woodworking it was a Popular Woodworking series of that of of articles by Bob flexner so it's pretty fun to read through he goes into the process of how they make it and um various differences this is what's nice about the Higgins I'm sorry the Milligan and Higgins they use a process that gets rid of this bacteria that's so common in a lot of high glues it just stinks when you when you melt it it's disgusting to work with and this is the first High glue I I've had I asked um the guys at um Wood Finishing Enterprise I go did you get that from Milligan and Higgins he goes oh yeah he said that's all that's the only place left so this is uh a number n 192 which just means High glue is rated by Gram strength and it's just the amount of weight how many grams it takes to Dent the hardened s you know gelled up hard surface of that's how they test it so a lower gram strength number is a softer weaker Bond and the higher is a lot more so 192 is typical 192 gam strength is typical for Furniture Mak and reason you don't really want it too much higher than that is as you go higher you have less time to work with it it gels faster but it ends up drying harder and stronger so instrument makers tend to use the 251 gram strength but it goes all the way up to like 512 so that stuff is just too fast and that's the challenge with high glue is that as it cools it gels and it you it taxs and you're just done if you don't have it clamped up you're in trouble but that's the beauty of it too because it's so fast you can do these little rub fits with glue blocks and put things together and you can Hammer veneer which I want to show you right now so I've got this liquidy enough so I just want to get it on the surface and in the winter time I you probably take an iron and warm up the wood that you're going on and it'll give you longer time because you don't want this to and I would have a bigger brush than this if I was going on a larger surface but I just want to get some on the surface and then and then some on the veneer what's really interesting about hide glue is that it doesn't mess with the Finish it's it's very strong but you can like shellack right over it and it won't be an issue so that's why like sometimes when you have PVA glues and they squeeze through you see like this clear spot or something like that this is really no problem for that okay I've got that on there now I'm even going to put some on the top side because it adds a slickness to hammering it out and it doesn't hurt anything and if you had larger veneers you can't work too big of a spot with this but you can if you get caught you can always take an iron and just lightly go over so I'm going to start from the middle and work my way out I think I've got a good spot right about there can you use a liquid hide glue for veneering Tom what's that can you use Liquid hide glue for veneer I think I'm a little thin on that I got I might be too thin on my veneer um yeah liquid hide glue is not the hot version it's um liquid hide has like a Ura added to it so it operates just like the PVA glues so it's kind of I mean one of the nice things about high glue is that it it grabs fast so you're losing that I hope this isn't too thin I did it earlier and it work fine at this thickness do you have a thickness preference of bur veneer what do you mean what thickness of BR veneer do you prefer is thicker better if so how thick is best well it when you're buying veneer it tends to come in 40 a 402 of an inch pretty standard for veneer in general I'm not going to worry about being perfect about this I just want you to see the process so I'm squeezing out you can see it kind of coming out I'd want that just a touch thicker but it's it's starting to grab now maybe not out at the edge but so that's basically the idea you just hammer what's what's nice you're not Tech hammering when they say hammer but you're using a Hammer's Edge for pressure I I've made boards you don't need a fancy Hammer you you can just have a board um you can put like a a bead of brass in there and you can just pressure it's just to get give you that leverage but having that little bit of glue on the surface makes it slide and gives you really good pressure and you can feel it just going down like a rock all right so that's it then I would just set this aside and you really want to let it go overnight to really harden up so once you've got your your veneer down however you got it down you're going to take it out of the bag and you're going to have a piece like this I've already sanded this half but I'm going to sand this half now and this is just with the straight uh White glue as my base let's see here I'm going to sand just with an orbital and I'm I'm start with 150 [Music] e all right there we go I can see a little bit of the blue from my grocery bag that's not good but see these little white circles can you that white circle and that that that there's a bunch of them those are actually you're through to the plywood below so those are holes there's a lot of them so I can't just finish this and this is that puzzling issue which precipitated this whole presentation to be honest I wanted to experiment and do a little figuring about this and I did searches and read a lot about people's different methods for this and you can get regular fillers I mean you could take just like the wood dough like a lot of times you know if I'm just trying to fill a little spot I'll use like a p a hardening wood filler like this and you put it in there and sand it off later but that'll be labor intensive and those have a kind of glue in there that can go down and it can be resistant to the finish that goes on if you don't get it all off and it leaves like a little Halo so I wasn't liking that and it's it's kind of a pain to know if you've gotten them all and then what I one of the articles that I read that I really found compelling was making your own wood paste using hide glue so for these type of Pips here they're kind of like a they vary from a a dark to medium brown color some of them are really jet black here and there but it's very forgiving to fill them you don't have have to have the exact color but what um I read recommended and I was thinking myself was to use walnut wood dust with the hide glue so I've got a piece of Walnut right here and I'm just going to make a little dust very quickly and I'm going to use a just on my block I've got 150 grit I'm going to watch for my dust to accumulate here try to keep pushing it to the end all right that should do it I did a little bit earlier and I've got a little in this cup I'm just going to push it off into the cup okay so we just got a little wooden dust in there you could do more but I'm going to mix just a tiny bit of this so I can show you here I'll get my little jar out so here's the hide glue in there and that is a little thin but it's good for this because you want it a little thinner to do this because you're going to mix it with all that dough in there I mean the dust and make a dough we just put it right in there and then with a stick we're making our own filler can you talk about the comparison or the advantages of hammering versus vacuum pressing well it's two different it depends on the type of glue like you Hammer veneer with hot hide glue because it cures so fast you wouldn't have time to get it in in the vacuum bag the vacuum press is for longer setting glues or for laminations um where you need you have the time so only reason I was hammering was for specifically that's a method associated with hot hide glue you have a cooling characteristic and you do it that way it wouldn't make sense with other types of glues uh because they don't have those same properties so anyway I've got that's a little bit runny I'm going to add just a little more wood dust and then we'll be ready we'll have our gel ready so let me make a little more dust here this is an endless supply it's cheap all right all right so I could get that a tiny bit thicker but basically that's the idea and I just take this paste and it goes into the various holes but I don't have to worry specifically I'm just going to bring it all around and use it like a paste so just press it in and you just move and you can kind of fill these fast it's not as thick as that other material and what's nice about it even though it looks like you're making a mess on the surface it's it's very easy to deal with in terms of top coating with finishes it's not going to be a problem with all the discoloration issues you'll face with other types of paste fillers like this so you got to get you know you're filling up these pretty good size holes um so maybe you just answered this because uh Will's asking would wood grain filler tinted with dark skin work dark stain work or are the pits too deep for this I think it's too deep for that I I'm looking more for a paste wood filler I I mean not a grain filler grain fillers are nice but they're they're really softer they're not made for a hard build so I think this you can look at it this is more this is very close to Wood dough so I'm getting this in a nice kind of it's starting to dry a little bit more so it's working nicely now as a good wood paste but look it's going in all those little places and before you know it you're covered so I would just do that make sure I've covered the whole thing and I end up with a board something like this so this one I did earlier and I've already sanded the side but so this is dry and it's hard but it's it's a nice paste using the the uh hide glue and I had read some other articles recently I was reading about veneering and trying to reduce creep or anything like that hide glue is an excellent glue to reduce creep it also works as a beautiful sizing material like to fill grain right before you put on your final coats you can use it on the top with a squeegee method almost like I filled here but you'd be using the clear hide glue and if you had a little squeegee on a I'm talking like a complex surface it works it can work as a a pretty great grain filler and also gets in all those little cracks and crevices and then you sand it back and because it's so compatible with finishes It's a Wonderful way of of sizing and just preparing a surface that's really got some wild figure so that it won't tgraph and crack open what do you think about um that method for long cracks and crotch veneer yes I I would think that's perfect question that actually is what I was just addressing with the using the hide glue on top of the material if you mix it with paste if um wood dust like this you're getting a heavier kind of filler paste uh but it'll work even in little tiny fissures like those little surface checks that are hard take longer to fill if you're French polishing or something like that that's another way to fill those with a pmus and a French polish as you do your early coats that's another method that the Old Masters would use to lay down the base coat of a French polish and fill the grain but this I like the idea of the high glue in certain cases when you're working with crazy figured grains that you might have a lot of joints because you're adding the glue effect and the stabilizing effect of the glue underneath as a sizing filler all right so here we go [Music] e all right so it seems to be sing off quite nicely I would spend a little more time just to be sure but if we look over here now everything looks pretty filled but I know I missed one I here's here's one that didn't get filled it looked like it did but but all the rest looked pretty nice in they up to to snop that um there was some debate as to whether the hide glue SL uh shrinks back but I think with the woodo it's very minimal from what I was reading um and then when you get it to this point you're going to look into the surface and you're going to see all these little dark spots but here I have a clear kind of glazed one that maybe it looks to me like it's just glue that could just be white glue filled that that hole so I would go around this might be a touch dark but if you just touch on those little glue spots yeah I think this might be a little darker than I want another method I use is put on a Cod of shellac first and then you can do this touchup and you have more control let's try that I'm going to I would have see that's one of the things about when you're using touchup markers like this and I do have we do have a link to a mohawk marker they make them in a lot of different colors this one's nutmeg it's a little dark of brown I put a kind of a warm medium brown link there you can buy whole sets of these markers they're nice when you're dealing with stuff like this or things in general and what I like to do is actually put that first wash coat of shellac down because it acts as a Sealer or whatever your first coat of finish is and then it becomes more apparent where you have those little clear glue spots like like that or something that might need a little touchup then you can touch it up with much greater control you could see what happened on that one because I didn't have this surface sealed because I didn't have the surface sealed I got more absorption and you you lose a little control of it so it might go darker than you wanted like I felt that so that's how I usually do it so let me see all right so I've got a little shellac here let's see what it looks like we're going to just this is a probably a pound and a half to a 2B cut and this is um dewaxed shellac it's a blonde shellac that we made not long ago this is just to get some sizeing are you seeing that okay mhm it's not glare nope okay I want to get over to some of these Pips that wow they look pretty nicely a lot of them are very close to being filled it might be the kind of thing that you have to do two applications on too like you sand it all right so let's do this one all right so see where I touch that one it looks dark but it wouldn't even be objectionable because there are some other dark ones to begin with that's why this stuff is so forgiving but isn't that beautiful yes and then once it's dried then I could touch up any that looked a little off or clear or unnatural so I can definitely see this one that I didn't fill that I pointed out earlier and I can see others that are definitely filled with that paste from earlier so you go right on and do that whole top but look at how Lively that gets is that bad angle yeah so pretty you see it all right all right and now I have another panel I wanted to test this because I not this is I hammered this down just like we did our other panel earlier and I sanded it but I had just High glue right on the whole surface I want to see how it reacts with this shellac it's going on beautifully it's not as Amber maybe it's sealing the grain a little more I'm not getting as Amber an effect but pretty close I could just add a little more to the but it's the same beautiful effect and that was just hammered on but I think I would in most cases I'd be putting it down with some type of PVA or um there's a unibond one type glue that dries very hard doesn't allow for creep uh as well and that you can get from veneer pressing systems also un 800 which is a Ura fald type glue quite often used with laminations because it dries slip at all um but the you know when you're not worried about the creep so much the typ bond I mean the typon one or white glue will work just fine so that's a nice little trick for using exotic veneers this was a nice little precursor to an actual project build coming on down the road so I hope you enjoyed that and as always if you enjoy this content please consider subscribing and liking and sharing and hitting the red button right red button and uh check out over at Epic woodworking.com we've got courses and that mailing list over there is just too good not to be and the neighborhood community yeah that's right all right everybody thanks so much for hanging out with us tonight we look forward to seeing you again next week right back here

Channel: Epic Woodworking

Views: 23,247

Keywords: Tom McLaughlin, Epic Woodworking, Classic Woodworking, Shop Night Live, working with veneeer, how to flatten exotic veneer, fix holes in veneer, mappa burl, working with burl veneer, burl veneer, hammering veneer with hide glue, hide glue applications, how to apply hot hide glue, using hide glue on veneer

Id: 8DPvAlMM8es

Length: 48min 10sec (2890 seconds)

Published: Fri Aug 05 2022