How to Make Extreme Curves

so I had to revisit some of the uh pieces that I made some years ago I forgot what year actually and I borrowed this from um a real close friend of the family and I've discovered that I made it in 2020 it's considered a demoon or occasional table or in this case it would be also a game table so you have a top that flips open and you have a gaming surface here and then you have these back legs that pivot out I'll swing that around in a second to show you but so it is supported like this and you can see these strong curves on the front and then you have this Center section which in on this table doubles as a drawer pretty sweet anyway it's made to be concealed here you've got all Cuban mahogany on here ribbon cut which is actually the quarteron section of mahogany creates this ribbon figure and so across the top you can see this is one wide cut right here so here's Plain on figure you have those wider bands and then the stripy quarteron figure over here so this is the quarteron Grain and I use this material actually to create some of that vertical figure but I want to talk more about creating these curves over here this is a pretty tight Bend and we want to make something that's not only strong but it's stable and it's going to stay in shape so that's what I want to share with you tonight now I'm going to move this table let's show you the back actually I did say I would um so here you have these legs that swing out on good oldfashioned wooden knuckle joints there's a nice little hand catch underneath and this leg will swing out and stop and the other one will come out and stop this way and I have this little pieces of felt embedded in there so that it supports the top like that from the back so that's the classic game table and you said you made it in 2020 but I think it was 2002 was it I can verify right now was a ways back um uh it's 2001 summer of 2001 so yeah you had that right this one was 2002 but I wanted you to see the interior here this is a simpler version we don't have the gate or hinged legs in the back this is a fixed top it's just that shape and it goes uh it's very similar to the other one but no game table or anything like that so I want you to see though you can see how tight that curvature is and then the way these legs are let into the curve housed you might say the back leg is also housed housed just means it's recessed and and embedded in so it's housed it's fixed in there all around uh here we've got it housed in the front little corner about a qu inch deep there and then these glue blocks applied on the side for a really nice rigidized strengthening to it um it's cut offset so that the curvature of this turning element here is flush with that base and you can see that that is a solid gaboon ebony line about 36 in wide at the bottom of this curved apron and then the feet also are solid ebony but we want to get into that tonight we'll just talk about this curvature so let's get into how we originally come up with the shape and then the process to go through of creating that type of shape one way I usually do it is just start sketching uh quite often I'll find inspiration from history uh meaning steal ideas but I do actually take a lot of inspiration from period Furniture I'm always looking at what other people are doing um you might capture some new ideas on Instagram or whatever I haven't stolen any ideas don't worry I'm sure people I love being an open book as you know so I'm happy for you to have inspiration from me uh but anyway I'm always getting it everywhere else and as a a lot of you know the New Hampshire Furniture Masters has been instrumental and that's where I came up with this kind of inspiration to make this strong curved apron so when I was designing it I did come across a table a period table which uh was a a Duncan 5 pedestal table and it had that very similar curvature so once I had the the idea in mind I sketched it to scale so I knew I wanted it about 18 in deep and about 38 in long and then I was able to with my sketch I could see about how far in I wanted the lobe and I did everything to scale and then I was able to expand that scale drawing up to a actual size drawing and I began with the top because everything works from the top profile inward Okay so we know once we have that curve of the top established we're going to step in for the front of our apron curves and then we'll step in the thickness of those aprons for the forms that were going to shape those curves around so here's actually the initial shape that I made for that game table you can see the game table board here here's the overall size of it yes 38 oh this one 17 and A4 I think I made this one deeper 17 and A2 okay so when this was opened up it would have been 342 so 5 38 all right so um what I did here was Drew the curve to the size I had on my scale drawing so I measured it over and I could see I was about 9 and 3/4 to the center line that's the center line of that seam right there and then I could see that I didn't come all the way to the front here I'm only 15 and 5/8 to the front of that curve where here it's 17 and 1/4 so once you have that laid out I saw the curve into one half almost like building a bed you just have to do half of the shape okay anything that's symmetrical chairbacks headboards of beds uh what else can you think of well tables like this you only need to draw half of the piece so I've got a center line here and then once I have this half established I got it nice and smoothed I was then able to make a master template here where I used this as the pattern to route to flush route on by flipping it around and I flesh routed to that piece which gave me a quinch thick Master template okay so this this became the pattern for where we were going here and how we were going to make this table let me turn it this way all right so we've got our strong Loaves and we've got our Dimensions all set up what's really nice about this type of panel which once you have that set up it's symmetrical it's the shape now I can put all my I can draw all my elements stepping in the appropriate offsets that I want from the edge so let's just do that just by measuring over here let's see what we have so I'm 38 of an inch here and looks like a little more 716 maybe I meant it to be 716 but it doesn't really matter when you're dealing with an overhang like that you're probably going to have a little bits of fluctuation not more than a 16th of an inch you'll never see it it's just nice to have the line established there so that line represents the outside surface of my apron that's how much I'm going to step in the second line I got two lines there actually but let me just use my tip here all right so it's it's the Inner Line is showing 78 of an inch from that surface in and that is the inside surface that Inner Line there of my apron because my apron material is going to be 7/8 of an inch thick right about there all right so this inner shape then is the shape that I need to make my form around which I'm going to bend the layers of my material to make that strong Bend now yes there are traditional ways of doing this if you like the traditional way I applaud you I love that myself I would it's fun to try it uh by that I mean using white pine in a brick laid manner it's kind of fun you can build it up stack it up like bricks and cut the saw the Curve the whole height and then fair and clean it up and then veneer over and you'll have it in no time at all this is another way uh this this way you really get the satisfaction of a curve that is super strong and holds its own so you can use this in a lot of uh situations where you maybe you don't want to Brick lay so up to to you once you have your uh overall shape inside that dimensional parameter that you're working with you then going to land as I just mentioned with this inner curve that's the form curve then you're going to we're going to laminate the thickness of our side and then have our overhang there so we want that kind of curve so what I did was I attached a piece of paper to this and then I could just take a small square I'm not going to to go through all the steps I just want you to see that if we had say a 3/8 overhang here and then we were coming in to our 7/8 we could just set this to an inch and a quarter to that and you don't have to be so fussy here CU you're kind of creating your own little world you know you're going to put a little birdie right here it doesn't really matter you can't really make a mistake here but um Happy Cloud yeah so then I would use that as my reference and on that paper or cardboard like thin um cardboard I would draw out and then Mark the key line like in the back here where this actually is going to go almost all the way to the back okay so this is the back right here and this is going to be attached in here and then up in the front the key line is I need it to at least come to here so I'm going to make my form over long in both directions and then when I laminate I'll make my laminations a little over long and they'll be trimmed right to this line after the fact all right so after doing that I took the cardboard or paper and transferred it to a solid piece and you end up with something weird like this this is actually the side form so we can see that if I match up these lines I come pretty darn close to hitting right on that see that that's our inner shape for our form so this would be the inner form shape for your master form now this was where my first table stopped but I made this one a little deeper um this was a second one so it's a/ inch deeper than the first table all right so there you have it once we have our side or apron form pattern this is the P pattern we're ready to build the form I built this form right here check it out all right that is this shap shape exactly 6 in high all right now I started out it wasn't so High um I've made variations obviously of this table some had deeper aprons and that initial one that I showed you the game table had a deeper apron like that so I ended six stacked High to give me 4 and 1 half should be 4 and A2 yeah and then later on I made a thinner apron and I realized hey if I just put two more layers I'll have 6 in high and then I can make the band and I'll cut it down the middle and I'll end up with both sides in one glue up so cuz those sides ended up only being about 2 and 5/8 or 3/4 at the most so I had plenty to spare by just doing it in one glue up so make your patter your form appropriate to whatever you're doing like you can get both TS out at once if you stack up and build a higher form so this form is made this funky shape initially because we're going to use strap clamps to clamp clamp this to the form a lot of times you can use uh regular clamps um you could use uh gosh there's so many ways of doing it you can use an outer form clamp but here I'm going to use a strap this is a nice method it's a nice opportunity to show you the method too so we'll use these heavy straps to come around so in order to do that you need some space for the ratcheting clamps over here I actually could have made this larger you know I could have made it out and a little more rounded so that when I pull the straps that would pull a little easier around this corner cuz you see we we're going to pull the straps right around this corner it was my first go at this shape and it works it's not optimal though you can be thinking of that if you're making a larger form have it so that your your strap is out there and it's not pulling around any hard Corner edges makes it just a little easier all right so once I have that I just take my first piece of the form material which in this case is 3/4 in MDF I'd get the lightweight if you can because sometimes these forms can get really chunky and this is going to be a solid form so um I take that first piece just draw this out Band Saw heavy to the line and then I tack this to that piece and flush route around it now I have a 3/4 in Center core of my form exactly like my form then I'll go ahead and draw out two more two more okay and Band Saw heavy to the line again and then those each one gets glued and just tacked quickly to that first panel we made so the first panel was already precisely this shape cuz we flush roded to it now we take those next two and make a sandwich and they're overlapping little and then you just go to your router table with your flush bearing bit and you flush route bearing against that Center layer and flip it over and do the same from the other side and just keep stacking on both sides however many you want or just go one side whatever you're going to be shocked how nice and true it is I mean this all the method I use to make this form and you end up with a really nice square and perpendicular uh form so there you are once I've got this my form then takes on some key marks that came off of my initial pattern and here's that key mark this is the point that I need this is where the joint happens so you have the center of your table and then the outside and then this is where the back happens so I'm going to be going further I'll be making sure I get more but I have to get full layering out to this point here and so those lines were transferred onto my form here and you can see I've got a line going right down the front here that's that key marker so I'm going to have my layers go beyond that so I can trim it later and then on the side I've got the same thing happening actually right here and there's a line going right down the side so I've got to get to this point all right all right so let's do some laminating we're just going to blast through one of these and want you to see the process we won't get too fancy here but what we're going to do is take some lamination material now what's that going to be well you could use actual solid wood laminations uh actually pieces of veneer like thick enough veneer you can make your own you can Resa run it through a thickness sander that's a little time consuming but if you want to have the appearance and that strength of a natural wood curve Bend if you keep those pieces in sequence when you resaw them after you glue them all together around the curve it's going to look like a solid rail if you know so it's it's a cool technique usually you're using that method when you're exposing the Curve you might do a laminated curve like this using a strap or whatever around a large Arc of some sort that will be seen no uh no no big deal but I mean you don't always have to use that solid method though underneath so here are some layers of solid wood material this is this is all popler and this was not res saw and sanded but purchased this way it's 1/16 of an inch thick and from different veneer companies the one in particular that I think of is certainly wood out in New York you can go on their website and look at their materials right there and they have a section called special thickness veneers and check it out see what they have I mean a lot of times they'll have um even up to 120th of an inch but usually they'll have variations of thicknesses so you have to decide can I get by with that thick of a bed this is really as thick as I want to go for this Bend 1/16 of an inch when you stack these up into 14 layers and you're going to pull that bend I mean look at that that's taking some Force but that's where the straps come in and when you get the glue on there it it relaxes the veneer a little bit to make that bend what we're going to do is instead of using solid wood layers we're going to use a man-made species uh just a a type of plywood there's let's see oh let me just show you this is how that certainly would came those pieces I cut them down from a massive sheet of like this that's a 16th of an inch thick so you can get this stuff in extraordinary Dimensions it's not expensive either because it's not it's not primary veneer it's they know it's secondary they know it's not likely going to be seen so you don't pay a premium for it and a lot of times the savings you get by buying it not doing the labor you'll be glad you bought it already but check this out this is some funky plywood you might say wacky cuz that's what it's often termed wacky wood and it's it's really wild it's it's very floppy and all of the grain is running this way that's why it Bend so easily you can see all the stringiness of the grain running this way it's running that way on both sides but you can see that one little layer in the middle there see that dark line that's where you have some Baner uh running perpendicular so that is a rigidized stabilizing Force but it's very thin so it's still it bends very easily in that direction okay but not so much in the other direction it's pretty stiff the other way because most of your grain is running vertically along this end so this is a piece of bending plywood or wacky wood if you call to buy it uh a lot of plywood dealers will have it and when you purchase it this is this is about a strong 5/16 So when you buy it I think they consider it 3/8 or maybe it's in millimeters I forget sorry uh but this they'll ask you do you want a an 8ft cylinder or a 4ft cylinder this is a 8ft cylinder because you can get it going the other way you know so the grain's running this way and it would bend really easily to make a circle or 4T High cylinder or or they might say do you want a column or a barrel same thing8 or 4 foot all right so this is what we're going to use it's a lot cheaper really and it's super easy to use Tom can you talk about what you have around the form there's some questions about the uh tape yeah this is just packing tape that I appli to the form after so that when we get to the gluing stage we don't actually glue our layers right to the form the packing tape will break free of the glue it won't stick to the glue um I before using packing tape I used to just wax it heavily that'll work too and you can just get wax all over the whole thing so this process doesn't need any steam right no this is not steam bending solid we are laminating which just means taking multiple thinner layers and gluing them around a surface all right so we're going to use the wacky wood method there's also 8in bending ply this is a little finer version of bending ply and it comes very thin it's actually a little under an eighth so I think you'd call it 3 mm um but see how nicely that bends but not so much this way it's a little more rigid but it's a nicer texture it's beautifully smooth and it's usually referred to as a and bending ply we're going to go with the uh a combination actually so here's our sandwich we've got I've already cut the pieces 6 in by 22 and here's that wacky wood look at that it bends so easily so we know we're going to make it around that curve easily right no problem but once we glue up the layers I'm going to throw in some 16th inch uh regular popler and that being every other layer so I have one down the middle and one outside I'm basically making my own plywood so once that goes around now this has been much easier and when that glue sets those variant layers are going to stabilize that sandwich really well cuz now I'm going to have three 16 inch layers going across that grain it it still can work without these but I like how it gives you a nice stable and ALS gives you a much smoother interior exterior so that if you're going to veneer over the top of that in my case I use that that linear mahogany that has a nice surface to go on to all right so let's go ahead and glue one up I need some paper and here's our layers now before we get too far we want to make sure that we've got them marked so that we're going to get around our frame okay that looks pretty good okay so right of my finger there I'm just going to make I'll just use my marker here okay we'll get them all stacked up here so that's my reference line I have to be on my form there to come around and make it far enough over there okay so if these were stacked solid I would have that Mark and I would make a v Mark as well keep thing organized and that's also in this case is going to keep me organized to stack these up properly the arrows going toward the form and that's how we're going to put it it together all right so I'm going to open it up and now I've got to mix up some glue here's a little demo that I used during the Epic weekend kind of fun I showed some different glues and how they cure so we have Elmer's white glue which is breaks but there's a lot of flexibility to it so if this was even thinner I can feel you know how when the glue dries on the bottle or on a surface and you notice it's kind of rubber that's what you get with white with the tight Bond two um with extend this is basically typ Bond original this is a little more rigid and you can hear it it cracks quite easily uh so the glue is considered harder and more stable Bond than flexibility of the other typon 3 made to be waterproof and used outside side so what would you guess this glue might be is it going to be really hard and rigid or more flexible you guessed it there's a lot of elasticity to this one so this is really awesome for exterior applications but it's not as great for veneering uh or doing laminations it's not like it's going to you threatened to have it slip a lot but if you want to make sure that you're going to hold you want to use a harder more brittle glue when doing laminating High glue here this is the 192 G strength this has some flexibility to it too but let's see but look at that does fracture when you bend it hard enough it's amazing how this a natural glue such a cool material now we're getting into the harder glues this is a combination of a PVA glue polyvinyl acetate and Uria Malahide so this has a kind of hard harder working action but you use it very much like a PVA glue it it does dry hard though and so it's it's a pretty cool good glue for veneering um and you can laminate with it as well but when I'm really looking for the ultimate laminating glue I want to use a true Ura faldy glue uh these two by the way are available for um I mean this unibond one is available from veneer pressing systems and then you have you can buy it from them what's called unibond 800 I think it's vacuum pressing system yeah vacuum pressing systems that's what I meant to say we put the links in the description below yeah that's where you get this unibond 800 this is a true Ura falahi glue the last one I want to show you that's the hardest best for V for laminating uh unibond one is a combination so you don't have to mix it works a lot more like your typical PVA glues but it does as you can see it dries it's more brittle it it's not as flexible as any of those others um but when you really want to get to the hard stuff this is basically like peanut brittle if you remember that I mean this stuff is really hard there's really very almost no flex to it at all it dries almost like glass in fact when it's cured on the form you got to watch out you don't cut yourself on it it's that sharp so this is great for laminating where you know you want it to stay dead on you just got to let it have time to cure around the form nice thing about it it gives you a lot of open time but usually it's a two-part system like the unibond 800 this example here is from a powder you just add water it's called vac Bon 2000 you can get that from quality vacuum products and that also is in the description so and then veneer supplies is another place and certainly wood is there too yeah certainly would okay so now that we have that I'm going to mix up the powder because that has a longer uh shelf life the thing about the the unibon 800 where you have the liquid in the powder it only lasts a year at stored at under 60° if you're storing it higher your time starts to dramatically reduce how long it lasts on the Shelf so you got to keep it cool to get it to last the longest the powder on the other hand lasts a lot longer be you just got to keep it cool and dry as well so that's what I have over here this is A5 or 25 lb bucket that I had of vacon 2000 almost gone but I've had it for a little while so I'm going to mix up some of that I'm going to do it down here on the floor so I don't kick up any dust really shouldn't be breathing this stuff so I'll put on my mask and I'm going to use the pad a paddle in my drill like this cuz you really got to make sure this stuff stirs up so I've got the appropriate measurement for a small mix I've got the water in this one and I'm going to pour the backb 2000 in here very gently okay now I'm just going to [Music] go all right so we can see see when it spans between the paddle let's see almost like doing bubbles that's about the right mixture if it's not it's a little thin if it feels too thick you can just add a little water too thin add a little powder all right so I'm I'm about just right I'm I'm not too thin but I'm a little I would say I'm a little on the thinner side than the thicker just so you know what you're seeing here I'm going to pour my mixture into my little glue roller there we go all right so you can see what I'm doing I'm just rolling it like paint but we'll get a nice layer on the wacky wood here and then we're going to to put another layer on the opposite so the nice thing like I said about this glue is it gives you a lot of working time um I'm talking like 45 minutes you know or if it's really cool in the shop up to an hour because this stuff cures with heat um so it's kind of kind of tricky sometimes because if your shop is too cold you you have to actually heat the form and I use electric blankets for that um pretty common among people doing this kind of thing okay go ahead Peter's curious are you're alternating the grain direction of the layers yes Peter that's how I have it set up I got the two uh the two wacky wood layers are running this way so they Bend easily and then you can see the three 16 in thick veneer I decided to make that kind of sandwich I mean you could combine E8 in bending ply solid or just stick with uh just bending wacky wood and it would work but I like to just alternate here and it creates a a more rigid better grade kind of laminated curve at the end and gives you that nice smooth surface on the outside for veneering your tops material you notice I'm doing this in two stages if you're you're going to put a decorative veneer on the outside it's a little too much in a lot of times to try to do it at the same time as you're doing the bending stage so I usually do it in two stages just so I can focus on making sure the curve gets right and then you can put your finish veneer on without sweating it as much okay um wood movement what about wood movement for these curved Woods in relationship to glue this is going to dry really hard you're what you're doing is you're creating a kind of plywood of your own so um I'm stabilizing this wood and the because you're you're gluing up thinner layers and you've got that hard glue line between you're you're restricting the movement with the glue itself plus I'm alternating directional and I'm creating a stable plywood just like regular plywood being very stable because it alternates every sheet so uh that's what we're doing we're it's working out well you don't have to worry about the movement in that case okay good that's that's one of the advantages to making your own laminate bends because you're controlling the shape and the stability of the material more so than sometimes solid would you know obviously if you steam Bend something it's going to go around the curve and you get a lot of flex back and you still it still acts like wood where laminating your own like this you're creating a beautiful kind of of uh solid laminated piece all right that's it I've got all my layers I also put it up on these Riser blocks just gets it off the table so that the glue is not all smearing around it ends up getting on here some but it'll drop drip down onto your main table now I'm going to use my reference line right here that Arrow to pin it to the form this way here this is going to hold me to get me started and I'm going to use two whoops I forgot one thing see as I was going to pressure this on here imagine if I press this on or put my straps directly on the wood sometimes it's soft enough so when the strap goes on there it'll actually squish the strap into the piece and you'll have a waving to it so you always want to use a transitionary call of some thickness so we're going to use four pieces of 1 in Masonite uh I use four because you know you you need it to bend around the curve and I found that four also uh creates a thick enough surface that the straps do not Telegraph through onto the material so here we've got to get our call on and this is going to get stacked and in position and I gotta clamp it there I knew something was missing I went to clamp it I'm like this feels thin but here we go now I'm going to pin the call in the right spot and just get this clamp to hold it while we get our clamp our strap clamps in place all right so this is the bottom strap I'm going to go around I've I've marked it these are two inch wide straps and I got these from like a trucking company you know and this is going to come around let's see I'm going to bring it up to about here and I've got to bring this hook around and hopefully I can bring these together let me pull it a little further around okay so I preet these so that they were close and I'm going to just set that right at the appropriate height there there it is come on around there now this is holding it in place I'm going to get the pressure going with this lower part so look we're ratcheting you can see it pulling it around there plus I'm staying over over here I don't want to lose it over here I want to make sure I that piece stays beyond that line which it is that's far enough and now I got to really snap this in a little that's why I have it clamped to the bench all right that looks nice now with that in snugged up I can take this out want to make sure everything's sitting down on my forms so creates better alignment if I can move it at this point so now I know everything's in plane uh now I'm going to get the second clamp on so here we go now we're going to let me just get this out of the way a little bit now we're just going to watch we want to pull this in I think we're about there maybe one more yeah I got one more there okay that's nice and tight we're really tight on our form all the way around every now and then you have a spot where if you're slightly asymmetrical like here I think I've got one little spot right here where it it bows out slightly the way it's pulling around this corner this probably would have been eliminated if I made the form a little longer but see I've got a little Spring right there so for that I just used a supplemental block which I'm going to put on the outside here and I dug out that hole so I can come down in here let me get the pad off we'll get that down as far as we can pretty close to Center let me tap it a little more okay and we'll get it right over that little bumpy spot and snugger right up there it is all right this baby is in the form and everything is in good position now it's just a matter of time so here you want to be over 70° for these things secure so you've got to have that uh remember you may have to put some paper over the gluey area and then I wrap an electric blanket you know over the top and you can put a moving blanket over the top of that and get it really warm so you put it to bed and then you come out the next day and you feel under there it's nice and toasty and that that thing is solid I try to leave it on there as long as I possibly can like several days if possible because there may still be some moisture in there and it's funny if these do change form a little bit usually they spring a little tighter a as time goes on you know usually when you think of steam bent material it always will loosen and and go larger than the curve here if you take them out too soon they may actually tighten up as they as the glue cures and dries out so if you can keep it on there a couple days you'll be amazed how it'll fit dead on there do you leave the electric blanket on for just that first night or do you do it the subsequent days I leave it on as long as the temperature is you want to keep that temperature above 70° so leave it on there if you have to if your shop is really cool like mine has been in Winter I learned that the hard way I came out the next day I had it in the press and took the pressure off the press and every and everything relaxed and everything sprung right up like it not much had happened it was just too cold so there you have it that's all glued up let me show you an example after this PO pops out you're going to have a little tobogan just like this all right so this is the actual same process so I have the two layers of the 516s uh bending ply and then there's alternating layers of 16th inch I wish I could show you how this fits dead on there but it does and um this is an example of all popler so there's 14 layers there of 16th inch thick popler so there you have that material now it's a little uneven unfortunately I don't have the time to go through the whole process right now but we did we did do this at the Epic weekend after this stage then you can veneer it with the vertical which I did in that case you can go whatever Direction you want and my pieces did get veneered and just goes right back in the Press with the same calls it's so much easier to execute that bend because you're only gluing on the veneer you can leave the inside usually without you can always apply a piece if you want it at that point but I would uh usually I don't on the inside like that cuz it's the secondary wood and it matches typically the back board so this would get veneered and then I have to saw it in half so I actually take this piece when it's got the new fresh veneer on there and run it over the Joiner so you can just joint an edge and you can do this with a narrower Joiner I used to do this with a six inch Joiner eight works better obviously um but you'll joint one Edge and then I will make a I'll cut this down the middle on the band saw so uh if I'm in that case the band saw blade is traveling down like this an exiting on the front so I'll run a piece of tape down there to restrict tear out right there and then it gets it's kind of fun because you get to Band Saw following this curve right on around and you'll end up with a couple pieces like this so here's a couple that were together I think these were two were yeah see these were together like that and they were bandaw apart and there you have it you got two nice halves and now now you can see this is taking shape to the front and then I would go ahead and Joint that edge again and get that nice and clean and then Band Saw to the final width and you would end up with some pieces do I have any more I think I Do by the way here's the center drawer section so that's over just a little different form or not necessarily the drawer oh here they are so here's another set of them let me move this out of the way I just want to come on into the front this template is helpful this is your friend now because once you get to this point you can use it for assembly so these pieces are actually laid on top here and marked so once I have these cut let's say I had this cut to width I would set it on my pattern and swing it over until you see it fit nicely inside the margin so there we are right right about there and then I would make a mark right here on the inside and the outside of that line Square those lines up and then across and bandaw across there now you could also take the time to set up a jig and where you clamp this to The Jig and you made a Crosscut that's a lot more time if you're going to make a lot of them it might be worth it but it's actually goes pretty fast to Band Saw and then clean that up by hand which is what I did on this one so this has been band saww using this layout template as you're working in the curved space so this this gives you a lot of guidance as you go along and then your Center piece will come in and you'll do the same thing you'll joint B saw and then joint that edge and you're looking to when you have it pressed together how does the joint look looks pretty sweet right and then you're going to see the alignment be good across the front now usually I'll clamp one there but anyway that's generally the the way you piece this together and then you'll cut the back corner and fit in your back piece these I pre-drill and I actually run three plug screws in there um and with that glue joint remember this is bending ply mostly so all the grain the side grain is running this way so it's pretty strong glue joint cuz you're gluing side grain to side grain plus I'm going to embed and run some screws in there uh this is not a structural this is more um of a veilance cuz this has a center pedestal this one all right everybody wow well that was a crash course admittedly remember if you are interested in this content head over to Epic woodworking.com and you'll find out all the other courses we offer there but mostly move into the neighborhood that's where you want to be and remember uh to like share and subscribe but I don't even care about that I'm just glad you're here so thank you so much for being here good night everybody good night everybody

Channel: Epic Woodworking

Views: 16,147

Keywords: Tom McLaughlin, Epic Woodworking, Shop Night LIve, Classic Woodworking

Id: gPHXezP0aH4

Length: 52min 25sec (3145 seconds)

Published: Fri Oct 28 2022