HOW-TO TAPE & MASK GRAPHICS FOR PAINT

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i'm chris harper with createx colors and i'm going to show you some simple taping and masking techniques and also a positive negative design that incorporates this pretty cool wavy energized checkerboard effect that i learned from p finland so stay tuned okay guys we're back our silver sealer is dry uh i mixed up a little bit of my coarse aluminum so that's the next color that i'm gonna use and laying out that's gonna be my ground coat for all my graphics so on this project we're gonna do kind of an industrial look i think i mentioned um so we're going to use our charcoal viola we're going to use our coarse aluminum and then we're going to tint some of those colors just to get a few different gradations of of gray and black to do some shading so for this i'm going to use my lbx uh lv wbx spray gun this is a 1 4 so it's perfect for the sealers i'll go to a 1 3 when i'm spraying my base and i'm going to use my oph 80. so everything is right around the air pressure that they recommend it's right around 20 psi the way i'm going to spray this so i mix my coarse aluminum actually three to one three parts coarse aluminum to one part of our uv ls4050 we've mentioned that a couple times i think in other videos and we find that for larger gun applications for broader surfaces the 4050 just holds the metallic in suspension that much better you really get a nice even effect and without a lot of shifting or modeling or the tendency that the aluminum has to stand up so the 40 50 is what we're using for this is what we recommend as of late uh for larger spray gun applications so i'm going to go ahead and put one coat down i'm only going to do the sides and the tops of the doors i'm not going to worry about the bottom or the edges because that's going to be different color you guys will see that so there's no reason to put more material down that that i need to so i'm just doing the flats right now so this is one coat it should be perfectly covered with one coat over the silver sealer hey guys we're back in the booth and i actually wanted to take a moment uh we're not done taping this out yet but actually touch on uh something we just learned actually while we were taping this out this is the first time that i used the 3m uh poly the purple poly tape and i just talked about saying that i was going to try on this project and i think i still am but i'm not going to use it for the window frame portion of this because the eighth inch i don't know if you can see that on camera the eighth inch could not really make and keep this radius for a nice little tight radius that i wanted to have now you guys can see this is kind of what i had in mind in terms of taping this out so it's going to be this line is going to stay silver i'm going to do another line that's going to be black and then we're going to have silver in the middle but i am not happy at all with the the paint separation in the corners it's actually starting to roll up a little bit so we're going to scrap that idea for this just for this stripe and we're going to go back to the fvs pro band and i'm going to use that this is the blue which is i think one step away from the softest the softest is the red and the blue is a little bit firmer so this this i know will work really good i've used it before so i'm going to redo this and move on to the next so we'll see you guys in a minute okay guys we're back i finished re-taping that out now you can see i used the purple tape which is actually perfect to show the contrast of what i'm talking about so i went ahead and i basically did the exact same thing with my eighth inch purple to border all the lines here because what i'm going to do now is go back in with the blue and make another tape line okay guys i'm just about ready to finish my last little intersection here you guys can kind of see it starting to take shape a little bit in terms of the picture frame so i'm going to get this line cut clean up my intersection where the two meet uh my starting point my end point we'll get that cleaned up you guys can see now i pull that negative out the purple and this is my overlap that i was talking about so now you can see this what the blue tape this is actually going to stay silver so this is going to be what we're calling the negative right because the positive is what we're going to spray so this is actually going to stay silver and from here in is going to get masked off so we'll just be again that picture frame that border of charcoal with a little eighth inch charcoal stripe going into the silver and then we're going to do something inside this silver panel but i'm going to go ahead and get the rest of these sections taped out and get this masked off and we'll see you guys in a little bit and we'll start spraying hey guys we are back i am just about finishing my last set of lines and i don't know if you guys can hear but actually we have the booth on the booth is running i turned the fan on only because it is extremely humid so a little bit of airflow helps in a big way especially when we're in a booth environment without the fan going it's kind of stagnant air so it just kind of again touches on the importance of air movement even when you're not painting especially when the humidity is really high if you're in an environment where you almost create that greenhouse effect it's going to affect how the tape lays down it's also going to affect that stickiness of the paint okay guys we're back i have all my graphics taped out if you remember this was open on the inside and this is going to be my positive mask so we are not going to put color on the inside the aluminum is going to be our base for the graphics that we do inside so i went ahead and used a little bit of auto mask frisket film mask paper so we cover that up you could use masking paper too if you want or just tape it out but i had this handy and it's a great product because it lays down nice and smooth so and it's it's sticky so it's not going to fall off while you're trying to spray so this is all going to stay silver where you see the blue tape that is going to be silver as well so we'll have eight eighth inch and a light nice inch and a half border of the charcoal color that we're going to mix up what i also did was if you remember in the beginning of the video i had sprayed aluminum but i just did it on the faces so i did on the sides of this container or this box and i did on the faces of the doors and i didn't i wasn't too concerned with getting the tops or the inside edges because i knew this was going to go darker so i didn't want to build up material for no reason so i went ahead and just lightly with a piece of 800 dry dry uh wiped the edges and i literally just wiped just like that nice just to knock off any little uh imperfections if there's any dust or whatever is going on a little bit of overspray just so i had a nice smooth surface to spray on and then i tacked that off with a water-based specific tack rag i recommend the products from gerson they make a lot of nice water-borne specific water-based specific tack racks and there is a difference between the solvent and water so we recommend the water ones so we are pretty much ready to go i'm going to grab my spray gun and we are going to start spraying the charcoal [Music] viola hey guys we're back i did a second coat of the charcoal viola over the outside this picture frame uh on the cabinet and uh it's pretty humid out today it's pretty nasty so we let it dry a little bit longer than normal i said usually we're about an hour before we would move on to our next step i did two hours just to make sure and that's one thing we always recommend depending on conditions you're better off waiting a little bit longer than trying to rush it it's going to save you time in the long run so what we're going to do is untape this and you guys can see what i was talking about in terms of the positive and negative okay guys we are back i have everything untaped and actually went ahead and pulled off the eighth inch that i had in the middle here to show you guys a little more in detail maybe you guys can understand more of what i was talking about rather than have everything taped up still so we you can see we have our border of our charcoal viola then we have a eighth inch silver stripe that's the aluminum that we sprayed and then there's gonna be an eighth inch charcoal viola stripe here you can see that's bordered right now with my eighth inch fine line so i'm actually going to leave my eighth inch on there because what i'm going to do is actually picture frame this again i'm going to take three quarters and i'm going to run it down the length of these pin stripes and i'm going to keep it nice and tight and you guys remember i was talking about using crepe tape or masking tape and for this again because this is not critical this isn't a critical masking step i'm just using this to get a nice even measurement it's not super critical right because this is going to actually get pulled off [Applause] when i'm finished to get sprayed because actually what's going to happen is this is actually going to get sprayed what the tape is covering right now is getting sprayed and i'm going to border this again with my fine line and then i'm going to do a set of flame licks in here and then we'll positive mask those flame licks so the flame looks themselves will stay silver this color and then we'll do our kind of fuzzy checkered flag in between all that so that'll actually be the background color and we're only doing it again with two colors it's going to be actually the aluminum the coarse aluminum i'm going to tint it a little bit with some deep black some semi-opaque deep black and that's gonna be the ground coat color for that and it's gonna give a really cool look a really cool effect and it's not a lot of overspray in terms of creating a tape line so it's nice for for background colors because you're not building up a serious edge so if you were to go back over with some other kind of graphic you don't have to fight because you're covering these big big drop off lines so i'm going to go ahead and get this all window framed again taped out we'll get this side done too and we'll come back and you guys can see what step two is gonna be everything taped up i got my borders done and uh if you notice i actually do have a couple pieces of tape on each of these panels and that is going to indicate my center line and a stopping point because what i want to do is when i do this picture frame rather than just keep it perfectly symmetrical all the way around like the outside ones are i actually want to make a little point right here to give it a little bit of character so what this is doing is allowing me to this is my stopping point the very tip of my point on both so i just measured the center this one because this is the bottom of the cabinet this is the top i want the top to be a little bit larger just to give you a little bit of illusion of depth so what i wanted to do here was this is about two inches off this top line and this is about an inch and a half off the bottom so now that's going to show exactly where i want that tip to start so i'm going to start tape and i'm going to use my eighth inch again and i'm going to just roughly land the tape at that point go about a half inch kind of like what i did over here for these corners a half inch off my center line and then just nice and easy make this corner and i'm just going to follow it around this frame same thing i'm going to make my own turns the same way i did them before i'm just trying to mirror image at this point everything else so i'm going to go ahead and come all the way down against this tape and i'll continue it around and i'll make my turn on this side and then i have a breaking point for my overlap so then i'll continue on with that turn and come all around then we'll have a cool little point top and bottom to give it just a little more character and you'll see that'll actually be more pronounced when we do the graphics later because that's going to stay solid silver it'll be nice and bright so i'm going to keep taping this out and taking this side out and we'll see you guys in a little bit so you can see what is going to happen after that hey guys welcome back i am done taping on my border so now you guys can see what it is that i was talking about with that another three quarter edge all the way around the inside so this is going to be positive this is going to stay silver and i went ahead and did that little detail just those little points that i talked about where i measured off just to give a little added dimension to it so now what i'm going to do is go ahead and actually border this again with three quarter just on the bottom of the sides to give me a reference point for my flame lick so my flame look is going to start right about here and it's going to work up the panel so i'm going to set a set of flames on both sides just to kind of mirror image each other they're not going to be exactly the same they're just going to kind of be freehand but it's actually going to end up looking something like what i have down here i went ahead and did this in between the brake so i have the same idea in terms of the paneling and this is what i meant with the border so there's going to be a nice clean quarter here this is actually quarter inch in the sides because it's smaller but i just made it to fit so this is going to be the same thing i'm going to replicate here but just on a larger scale so i am going to show you what was i was talking about this is my three quarter tape again i'm just going right on my tape line at the bottom and i'm just going to give me a couple reference points for myself just right about here it doesn't have to go all the way up because the flame licks are going to start but it's just to kind of give us that industrial kind of flow to the rest of this and keep it the same so everything is more more linear at the bottom of this so i'm going to take my fine line again i'm using eighth inch fine line and i'm gonna start my first lick right about here i'm just gonna go with something that i think fits the space and as i bring it down to the bottom here now i'm going to use that tape to give me that perfect border same thing turn the corner i have a nice sharp corner and when i get to this point i'm going to do the same thing i'm actually going to give myself a little bit of a reveal where that point is and another thing too when you guys when we're doing something with an x-acto knife always grab a fresh blade for each one of your projects because the last thing you want to do is when you're cutting your masking you want the last thing you want to do is have to cut that multiple times if the blade's not sharp it's really a simple little trick just to make sure that when you make that first cut you're not cutting down through your tape because if you're cutting through your tape into the silver especially you're going to see those cut lines so you want to be able to have just enough pressure to cut your mask but not cut all the way through your tape because then you'll see the paint will actually go through it and then you're not going to be happy with the results so i'm going to finish up here with my point it's just kind of freehanded design and what it'll do is it'll be the opposite on this side so this side i have turning this way and this side will have it turning that but again it's going to be more freehand than anything else so i'm going to make this corner come up here and once i get to the top here i'm going to finish off my lick so then i'll do is i'll start from the inside here and i'll start building my my flames and we'll fill all this in and i'll do the same thing that i have here generally the same a lot of times you could maybe trace this pattern pounce and flip it but we're just going to do it freehand so it gives a little bit better flow so i'm going to keep laying it out and we'll see you guys in a minute hey guys we're back i finished all my taping and i am ready to start landing my vinyl mask so again this is an auto mask vinyl transfer paper basically low tack it's a little sticky enough that it won't pull up any of the artwork but it's enough that it'll hold it down once you squeegee so you can see i have all my positive taped out on this side this is exactly the same as this so i went ahead and laid my mask down and this is where we're gonna do that second set of graphics inside here so this is what we call the positive and this is the negative so the positive is gonna stay silver and the silver is going to be the ground coat for the next set of graphics so basically all i'm doing is working nice and slow when i land this starting at one end try to keep it nice and clean don't push it down right away get your edge squared up and just slowly let it fall okay guys i put my little last piece of vinyl mask on this last edge of the graphic doing the same thing i'm smoothing this down and i'm ready to start cutting so we're going to talk about knives i talked real quick before about knives i prefer an x-acto knife instead with a fresh blade it's always nice it's you're going to get a nice clean cut and the last thing you want to do is be going back over and cutting artwork more than you have to run the risk of cutting through your tape and it's just going to cause a lot of problems so just nice and light pressure i'm going to start at the center always try to stay in the center of your fine line tape and one nice easy line almost like you're pinstriping i'm just going to pull this line all the way around and try not to stop until i get to the last intersection so what i'm doing is i'm eliminating issues when i pick up my knife the more times i stop and have to reposition my knife for a cut the more times you run the risk of having a problem like right here i'm actually going to just turn it the knife is staying on the paper and i'm just going to continue on with my cut so i'm going to get this all cut and weeded and we'll see you guys in a little bit because we're ready to start spraying some paint okay guys we're back and everything is back mass and taped i have my positive and negative all taken care of and one thing real quick before i know i said we're almost ready to spray which we are but i kind of overstepped one little step when you guys are pulling off your mask always go in the direction of basically in this case the flames the tips are going this way when i pull this off i'm always pulling it with the tape this way i don't run the risk of pulling these little points up so if i pull it back this way you might have an issue where it'll pull your your mask your vinyl tape right back up off the surface so try to go against instead of going against it go with it you know so it just helps being able to hold everything down you don't want to pull any of that up so what i have here is a fine line tape it's a scotch the 223 plus 233 plus i'm sorry this is going to give you a better tape and paint separation line where the yellow masking tape that i was using for kind of establishing my borders all this stuff that wasn't getting painted that wasn't a critical masking kind of tape so what i'm going to do is pick a line right here basically the center and i'm going to start in my center line and lay a tape line and what i'm going to do is continue on another piece and i'm going to border that tape line right so what we're doing is we're creating this pattern it's going to be three quarters of an inch wide all right so i'm going to break that off and i'll show you guys what i'm talking about so we're going to do one more just keeping it nice and tight clean line okay so now what we're going to do is this center piece we're going to pull it right out so imagine these are all across this panel and so we're going to have one every other so there's going to be a space another piece of tape a space another piece of tape so that's going to be our grid so what we're going to do is spray one color it's going to be this aluminum and i'm going to tint it a little bit and we're going to do a pass and then we're going to do another pass and another pass we'll get to that you guys will see it in a spray but i'm trying to give you the visual on what it is that we're going to achieve with this so i'm going to go ahead and get this all taped out and do the same thing on this panel do the exact same thing and have my spacing and then at that point we're going to be ready to spray and this is a really cool effect that you guys are going to see and it takes a minimal amount of effort really it's going to be really fast once we start spraying and it's really cool so we'll see you guys in a little bit okay guys i have my grid pretty much almost done i just left the last couple pieces for you guys to see exactly what i was talking about in terms of using the three-quarter for your spacing so now all i'm doing is pulling every other one out my negative and again i'm going with the direction of the flames i'm peeling it off this way so i don't run the risk of lifting any of these points back if i pull this way so just a nice methodical approach to peeling this back is your best bet don't try to rip it so if you see a tape line starting to come up you can get your blade or pencil and just kind of help force it back down so nothing moves on you so that's all set what i did ahead of time is lightly wipe this down just because we had so much tape on and off with a very mild uh pre-paint wax and grease remover we recommend a solvent-based pre-paint wax and grease the one that i use my preference is sx320 it's a ppg product it used to be dx330 now it's sx320 it's a mild mild pre-paint uh wipe so using a solvent on water-based paint will not affect the water if you use a water-based product which there are they are out there it's going to actually soften your base coat so it's not good it'd be like taking lacquer thinner to uh solvent-based paint so this is all set and ready to go just make sure another thing is make sure that you have all your overlaps anywhere where this tape is going over another tape line make sure those corners are nice and tight just extra insurance just to go ahead and press all that down so i mixed up the same aluminum this coarse aluminum as my base coat i actually just added a little bit of our semi opaque deep black and just a dot of blue just to get us that warm shade just to be a gray color so it'll be a little bit darker than this and uh we're gonna get ready to spray and i'm gonna show you how easy it is to get this effect so we're gonna move this so you guys can get a better view of it so we'll see in a second okay guys we are ready to spray and what i'm going to do is set my fan i'm using an lph80 i'm going to set my fan so i have about a two inch fan pattern so what i'm gonna do is make a two inch stripe all the way across and i'm gonna just gauge my eye roughly two inches down from that and i'm gonna do another stripe right here so i have a two inch space in between kind of going the opposite of what i have with my three-quarter tape so i'll show you what that looks like down here you're going to see my mouth okay yeah yeah so here we go okay guys we are ready to spray okay guys we're all set and ready to spray got my paint and my gun i'm using for this i'm using an lph80 right around 20 psi i've got my paint mixed ready to go to the e4 cap what i'm going to do is i have my gun set up so it's right around a two inch fan pattern so i want just about that much so i'm going to make a pass all the way across this whole graphic and then what i'm going to do is just by eye go another two inches and then go another two inch stripe over that so i'm basically going to go the opposite of the way the tape is running and what we'll do is we'll build this grid and it looks kind of silly now but once we come back and re-tape and spray again you'll see this checkerboard effect start to take place it's going to look really really cool so here we go we're going to spray this first pass [Music] what i'm going to do is let that dry and while that's drying i'm going to go and spray my second pass what you want to do is have that nice fade that fade is going to give you that loose kind of wavy pattern it's going to be really cool so i'm going to go ahead and keep on going with another pass [Music] okay guys i went ahead and did a second coat of my silver mix my charcoal and now you can see where my lines were and i started untaping and re-taping and this is exactly what we have to do so now i'm going to go ahead and show you we're just taking our three-quarter inch again and filling in the space of the tape that we exposed okay guys i'm back we've finished taping these little sections up and uh making sure our intersections are again all nice and tight anywhere where there's a tape overlap make sure that's nice and tight so you're doing any bleed through so i have the same color i have that charcoal color that i made the aluminum with a little bit of uh deep black someone will pick deep black and drop a blue just to darken it up what i'm gonna do now is the exact same thing i have it set up for a little bit of a two inch two inch fan pattern just like that and you can see the old overspray right so what we're doing is we're going to go in between the overspray now so basically if i'm spraying across here i want this yellow to go away and this little bit of white to go away because we're now we're doing the second part of that checker pattern so if you have a hard time seeing if you had other masking material i've done this before where i've had masking paper and i pulled the masking paper off and you lose these lines what you can do is just make a little tick mark you know with a pencil or or a stabilo pencil or something like that this way you kind of have a reference point so you know you want to be between these two so the idea is to create this checkered pattern so i'm going to do the same thing i'm going to just go back and spray the inside go two inches across two inches two inches and work my way down okay guys we're back everything is untaped i got my shadowing done here to outline this so you guys can now you can really see i think it's standing up in front of the camera what we have going on which is a really really cool effect so i am going to put the finishing touches on the flames i'm going to do just a little bit of drop shadows so i actually switched to my airbrush this eclipse cs and i mixed our uh transparent purple our transparent jet black and our 4004 transparent base and i mixed that one to one to one very easy but it's a very nice uh shadow color and it flows very nicely just a maybe a splasher reducer 4011 just to help flow a little better but it actually sprays really well right out of the gun and the the reasoning behind the the purple and the black is the purple actually helps kind of weaken that black so it's not so intense you can see how dark this really is and if you can see the shadows right here i'm not quite sure if you'll pick it up on camera it's just it softens that black it doesn't make it really intense a lot of times if you do straight black it just it looks very fake so it just helps kind of push the realism a little bit so i'm going to keep going ahead and do my drop shadows here okay guys we're back our drop shadows are all dry everything is completely untaped now i think you can get the full effect of the graphics and what it was we were trying to achieve and i think it came out really well really happy with it so it's pretty cool the only thing left to do is top coat it so for this i'm gonna go with our 4051 uv ls satin clear i think it's going to really have a cool effect staying in that industrial theme it's going to highlight some of the metallic and not be super super bright so we're going to put a couple coats of clear on that knock that down with a piece of 800 dry once it's all sprayed we'll be able to knock down our graphic edges and i'll put two more coats on top of that and that'll totally finish this off so for more information on spraying our uvls line of clears you guys can click the link below but in the meantime i'm going to get this tacked off and i'm going to start clearing and we'll see you guys when i'm done okay guys we're back and that about wraps up this project i did three coats like i mentioned of our 4051 uvls satin i let it dry overnight and i came in this morning and i did a little bit of sanding with a little bit of 600 some 800 to finish it off i only used about four four or five pieces of sandpaper to sand this entire cabinet the sides and the tops because it does powder up and dry sand so nicely and that's the key is dry stain you don't want a wet sand and i put two more coats over the top of that and now i have no tape lines no edges it's all nice and smooth it has a really cool satin industrial look which fits the scheme of what we want to have in our mixing area so again i think you guys can appreciate the the detail but the simplicity of something like this we only really use two colors our aluminum base and our charcoal viola for the outline of the cabinet and we just tinted it with a little bit of black so really not a lot of color per se but there's a lot going on but it's very cool and simple and clean so again i think that this basket weave wavy checkered flag you know it has that nervous energy to it again i picked that up i mentioned from seeing pete finland do something like this and i think it works extremely well for for background graphics it's a very easy technique but it looks a little more crazy in terms of the difficulty you know when you're actually applying it so i hope you guys dig this and we're going to put this up on the wall and back into use and we will see you guys next time you
Info
Channel: CreatexColorsCo
Views: 36,194
Rating: 4.9052925 out of 5
Keywords: Createx colors, airbrush, custom paint, design, stencil, auto paint tape
Id: 7nhWdr4Ro-A
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 31min 19sec (1879 seconds)
Published: Tue Aug 11 2020
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