How to Swap Mustang GT 4.6L V8 Cams & Valve Springs - Mullet Mustang - EP16

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welcome to another episode of the mullet Mustang presented by turn 14 distribution time to make some more NA jam by selling these stage two camshaft and valve springs from cop can or we get started with all this delicious goodness from Comp Cams you see over here gonna get dirty buddy on at the intake and I guess start pulling out those boring stuff bump sticks huh yeah that's the plan we have done this once before somewhat in terms of taking the whole front timing apart so I feel like we're going to be a little bit ahead of the game but we'll see how it goes once we get into there yeah it's going to be exciting the first thing we started off with is pulling a both valve covers off and Dave's been cranking away here I'm turning like what 25 yeah super fun trying to touch a center on this thing anytime you're doing a cam swap you're going to want to line up the timing marks to top dead center you don't have to do that you can just mark the cam with the chain but I recommend doing it just because if anything slips off you always know that you're at top dead center and you've got your marks lined up the next step here is we needed this tool which is a what is this call David chain blocking wedge or something wedge yeah so I'm going to put it down deep into the the crevice of our timing chain here all that does is make sure that this chain doesn't kind of slip back in once we take the phasor out yes and that's going to be the next step here is to crack this loose we're going to separate our actual gear from our bump stick and you'll notice I've already gone ahead and somewhat secured our crank pulley this is going to prevent the engine from rotating and don't ask us how we learn the hard way let's see if I can crack this loose here if your age go unquote large ah there we go all right that's what a healthy Tim Hortons lunch will do for you oh yeah you're the power - the wedges of course and they away from those wedges went for the broccoli soup instead we've got the phaser bowled out now and you just wiggle this and oh of course the cam always loved the spin on it moved a bit oh it did he most certainly did not oh the cam video yeah yeah the cam always tends to once you pop it off yeah the tension loosens and goes to the path of least resistance on the one of the high ramp lobes one of the chin doesn't move we're all good I think we're okay of course there's a special tool that you're supposed to use to remove the rocker arms before you go loosening the camshaft but we watched a video in Comp Cams actually states that you can just slowly back each bolt on the cab caps off starting in the center and just work your way around and as long as you just crank them off completely you're not going to go snapping any type of camshaft and I feel like we've done this on Japanese cars this way and it is never even I've never really bit of problem Sonia now what you want to do is make sure you keep everything tidy and you know where it came from so check out our awesome box set up yeah you want everything to go back in where it came out from so with marks like this one two three four five four the cam caps and f4 front are for rear that way we can't get confused because we've noticed we occasionally have problems with confusion this is what you know your ramp lobe looks like a tiny little lobes that's right we're done with you baby we're ready for some big power go in the garbage little baby lobes as we showed you off the top these are sexy comp cam these are their stage two XS I cam these ones are V s are valve spring required meaning they got lots of lift and duration so you need to upgrade the valve springs which we've done with their beehive spring and you can either go with their titanium retainer or their steel retainer we went to steel because if they're less expensive and more durable so they'll better for a streetcar petunia saves the weight as well all when you do it we've also chosen to replace the valve seals the car smoking a little bit it has a quarter million kilometers on it we can every startup so while we're in there let's just change these out so we ordered these from cell pro and you have to change your cam phasor or your cam gear bolt these are a single-use torque to yield style bolt they stretch a lot so you have to replace those back to the cam these are designed to make a lot of top end power so from 4600 rpm and up these are supposed to really open up the breathing guys you're seeing like 35 of the wheel on the dyno so we'll find out if we see comparable numbers when we take this to the dyno and retune it and it supposed to also have a bit of a lumpy idle so you kind of get down well the Internet we know that if you watched our badass 2000 video where we did two valve retainers you will know that we used this tool which is a valve spring compressor it's a universal type and we managed to get it to work on the Mustang it's actually a special valve spring compressor tool that you can buy online for the Mustang but it was like 180 bucks so we wanted to use this one the only thing I had to do with the help of vin of course was make an adapter bracket here a plate so it can bolt onto the actual head here with where the camp caps were so a little tension happening down here PC well thank God we got the breaker bar on there and also nothing moves yeah so we're compress it we're pushing compressed air into the combustion chamber which should theoretically allow me to now push down on the valve here there we go and now I've got a not a large magnet tool here oh does not reach on this side regroup look at that check that out right there our keepers are off which allows me to remove our valve springs if you're this deep into your valve train it's never a bad idea to replace your valve stem seals and they may come off easily or they may be a little bit of a struggle on the other side it was back and forth one would come off easy and then the other one would give me a bit of a pain but this one as you can see pop right off that's the old one sorry quarter million kilometers on it I put the new one on but before I do that I'm going to give it a quick little lube job just so it slides on easier here's a quick pro tip that we learn from them if you put a bunch of grease into your keeper it's going to stick onto the valve much easier so I'm gonna go down here oh yeah that grease works like a charm I'm going to rotate it around slide the other one in here whoops that grease sticks push it down oh no no go better be down a little bit further there we go okay I think we're all right bring her back Dave bring her back nice and slow yeah come we shun and that right there that's how you do it we are on to the final valve on this side here 11 down one to go and I'm showing you a quick technique that I've picked up if the valve is sticking I just found sometimes you got it as you can see it's sticking now it's just popped away I just continue to spring it give it a little leverage see little shocked Bam Bam Bam Bam Bam that breaks the community yet it breaks the Super's loose and that allows us to pull this down and pop them right off that two in one go it helps if you have a very strong magnet last beehive valve going in this is steel retainer and well Pete drops it in place there I'll just nerd out a little on these Springs because I was reading the specs and was impressed to learn that the beehive shape of them is actually specifically designed to improve stability reduce valvetrain stresses especially at high rpm with these big cams and the wire itself is even sort of oval in shape which puts strength in the area of maximum stress on the spring again especially at high rpm with these big lift cam so more than just a stiffer spring there's a lot of engineering going on there and speaking of engineering Pete's been become a master of using these air compressor valve springs and pressing tool he's ready for the big leagues now I would say ready for that job of your local here we're going to try to do this myself I think I may yeah yeah I'm gonna go fly solo I'm doing this duel people yeah I mean my partner here but now I feel like I'm good enough where I can attempt this and prove to people that this can be done by one dude by one person okay and normally on the lever puller so that's you can fish the keepers in there without the strain of having to hold the spring compressed button sing-off now if you drop this one in the engine teeth there's going to be hell to pay and make sure you get the proper technique when you grab it oh yeah yes people here we go little bit it's works finally that only took like 20 too long yeah there was a lot of work six hours deep into both sides areas yeah great for the back oh but now you can finally put the cams on but before we do that we're going to put some assembly Lube all over everything getting into the homestretch here folks I'm to lube up these rockers basically you just don't want on startup for any of these parts to be dry so we're using assembly lube on the rockers and on the cam caps and obviously on a cam when that goes in we're gonna be on everything your friction surfaces that's the moral of the story here we should mention a compound does make a Lube specific for this job of we fail to order it so we're using a generic assembly Lube should do the job just fine here's the whole issue right now there's a key but we can't see it in the camp when we rotate it here that drops into the cam that needs to line up with the cam gear and what you need to do is line it up the best you can in terms of just like eyeballing it this one it's up in the top corner here so sure enough that looks like I'm close enough and then we'll deal with that when we have to put the gear on we may have to rotate the cam a little bit once it's all settled in place which is a bit of a cringe-worthy job but we'll show you how to do that time to tighten these cam caps down shutting in the middle ready yeah listen my way out here being very gentle just kind of tightening each one slowly until I get to a point where I'm happy with it I'm gonna gradually just shut them down and then plug it to 89 each pound which I have to know off the top of my head is seven point four foot sounds Wow you're just a wizard with your math or that and then Jim may have used that sweet and the Auto digital snap-on tool here at cookin jerks yeah so light yeah it is kind of shockingly light isn't it yeah I think that the speed that cam spinning out its being held in by seven point four foot pounds thank goodness for this wrench - yeah she would be we need one of these snap on the shop like that as expected we've run into the problem where the key in the cam gear is not lined up with the notch in the actual camshaft so I know some people are going to cringe at this but we're not we're going to use a pair of pliers here to move the camshaft but we're going to do it in an area that isn't an actual where item so it's not on a lobe or anything like that yeah this is actually how comp cam says to do it yeah and their video they show us doing it the same way so I'm just going to grab this and try to turn the cam a little bit and of course it doesn't go because I've got too many Bragg's bound up here you know what going bareback because sometimes you just got to go bareback directly we go just turn it there we go that might be enough where we need it closed like supposed to be in the hole there there we go yeah all right so I'm not sure if I'm going to recommend I just did there but turning the claims of work yeah we turn the crank obviously we have the rubber stopper in there yeah which is making sure that we're not going to skip any timing yeah but that works great so now we're just going to solve that fake new phaser bolt and we can start putting some valve covers on all right that's 30 foot pounds which is what you're supposed to set the phase or two but there's part two of this which requires another 90 degrees of torque so I'm going to go all right I was almost 111 that's a lot that's 45 I'm going on it 45 good 90 and we're good I think we should mention that I took the hardest job of all replacing this valve cover seal with a very difficult racing blue fel-pro unit check out each individual qahal now has a rubber let it run it in blue yes fully tuned you've done a good job Dave I give myself a big pat on the back of that one and of course before we go putting the valve cover on I've got the right stuff oh you do have the weight and you need to dab a little bit of the right stuff from Permatex here mm-hmm into this area and why I don't even remember why well these are there's a bit of a break where the rubber meets the head and there's a little spot on the masti all over here you can even see that little slot there that's what the silicone goes in it all makes it happy all very important things yeah these are very very very important well now I'm going to fiddle with this for about ten minutes yep and we're going to skip all that I'll show you the first startup Tea Party People time for a first fire up what do you think PC guy in a tree hopefully don't throw any cans at the motor here are we ready already no no it sounds bad you could time for take two on the startup here we think the rattling house hearing and panics on last time was just the lifters that had drained of oil so let's see if she's happier now that we primed the engine crew - yep [Music] currently the kitten yeah good nice work butter dad coming through yes down very stop like it does a little oak to it [Music] sounds good man and that's a wrap for this episode epic cam install complete next step is the head to the dyno see if these bump sticks make the jam we're hoping for please please make some power did you spray you pansies the moment where you get to watch Pete Luba shaft you know I had to go there oh come on you did I knew you were going there actually I still chuckled and you should know me well enough you know man Colin can't pass on the opportunity of making a Lube shaft joke
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Channel: Speed Academy
Views: 224,397
Rating: 4.8883047 out of 5
Keywords: Acura, Honda, Subaru, Scion, Toyota, Ford, Chevy, Porsche, Nissan, BMW, Audi, S2000, AP1, AP2, Civic, K-Swap, K20, K24, 240SX, S13, S14, SR20DET, Engine, Swap, howto, 2JZ, install, track, drift, drag, how to, guide, timing, marks, replacement, replace, cam shafts, cams, valve springs, retainers, upgrade needed, Comp Cams, Stage 2 VSR, XFI, beehive valve springs, valve stems, leaking, smoke at start up
Id: D4detO6ofAM
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 19min 10sec (1150 seconds)
Published: Tue Apr 25 2017
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