How to Sew Pants, Video #4, Sewing

this pair of pants has three pattern pieces no zippers no pockets no buttons you'll need some thread and some elastic I use one and a quarter inch wide elastic you can use one inch elastic I would suggest at least one inch or one and a quarter but through your pants whatever you want to them okay so I just want to show you remind you here's my front I have marked with a big X and a half a big X and a half they're on the wrong side because when I get these apart from each other if I did not have those marks I would not know what I was using for the right side of the fabric and what I was using for the back side of the fabric those marks come off with an iron you saw me in a video a while back show you about the friction pants this is another one of a friction marker I have them in both houses so here's my two fronts if they get away from each other and one of them walks down stairs or jumps out the window or something I will always know when I find it if it's a front or a back and which side is the right side there's the backs I've marked the big X and BK that these are the two backs this is the right side on the inside okay so if they get separated from each other I will know what pieces they are if you don't have marks on these cut out fabric pieces you're not gonna know what they are you are not you could go back and put them up with the paper pattern ask me how I know and then you can figure out if it's a front if it's a back if it's a right if it's the left and all of that okay cheesier to just mark it and then here's the other piece this is piece five and it is the entire with the fabric waistband and I have X's on the back to show that's the wrong side this is the right side and you can see I've got two little marks to show where the center front is of this waistband okay so that's my five pieces so what's step one this is step one joy style everybody knows that this is just Joy's way of making a pair of pants okay so we're gonna start with we're going to pick up a back in the back you could pick up a front in the front I'm starting with the backs I'm going over to the ironing board come with me hi I'm going to go ahead right now before I do any sewing at all and I'm gonna iron the creases in my back and in my front I'm starting with the backs cuz the backs don't need a dart okay so you're going to fold it wrong sides together because you don't want your crease on the inside of your leg that would look really really strange on the outside so I am going to press it and you always ask me what I tell you this is called the roll went to perfect steam I'll put a link to it down below if anybody wants to buy it it's on Amazon it's not cheap but it's an awesome iron I buy a new iron every couple of years so I am going to how do I know where to put the crease very easy you fold the pant in half see it's perfectly in half and it matches up this far it matches equally on both sides up this far then because of the crotch and because of the top that goes around your belly in your and everything it gets off so just follow your crease up to the top and don't worry about this part that's crooked see up there don't try to line that up leave it like it wants to be follow this crease that's this fold this Center fold here follow it to the top to put the crease in now than it is to try to put the crease in when your pants are all done all right hot fur gets cold remembers so we're not going to open this up until it gets cold we're gonna put it right there and just let it have a little nap now we're gonna take our other back we're gonna fold it with the right side out like it's gonna be on our body we're going to do the exact same thing if your pants don't line up at least halfway up you've cut them out wrong something's wrong because you have that grade line on your paper pattern and everything is drawn from that grain line and that keeps everything even from your thigh down and again it's off from the crotch up that's okay we're going to just follow the crease up to where it wants to be the way it wants to be from the bottom so when we press something when we press ahem when we press a crease we let it cool off because then when we open it up it won't just fall out and forget we even put it down it's obvious now it's obvious now what the right side is in these pants because here's the crease okay while these two backs are cooling I'm going to go over to the table pick up the two fronts I'm going to take the two frights over to my side machine and I'm going to so in the dark there's one dart on the front so the v1 dart here in one dart here I'm gonna go so those darts in because when I put the crease in the front I want it to match up with that dart remember I have moved the dart on my pattern so that will happen I'll meet you at the sewing machine and we'll sew darts okay we're gonna take these fronts and we're going to sew these darts I have marked the darts so you can see them from across the street do you see there I like to see you my darts I'm going to pin the darts in and then I'm gonna saw the dart my sewing machine is a Bernina B 740 I love this machine because it has the easy feed foot on the top I can sell without it then since I have it I'm gonna use it okay so we're gonna fold the dart in fold the dart in where do I start sewing my darts I start sewing my darts at the wide part at the top I used to sew them from the point but I learned that there was a better way to do it I don't know when I learned this or if I just started doing it that way or what I know Peggy always soldiers Peggy why are you always talking about baby because I watch Peggy every single week twice one week and every Thursday of every week and every other Tuesday of the other weeks so I watch Peggy a lot so Peggy's always on my mind and people ask her the same questions over and over and over and over I bet they've asked her five thousand times how do you so dark I'm going to put my finger down and hold my tails of my thread when I start now I'm assuming that you ladies know how to sew and you know your sewing machine by always always clean my sewing machine in oiler before I start okay because I can't remember what I made last and I can't remember when I cleaned it last now as I get toward the point i turn my stitches down I'm going to turn them down to two sewing then I'm going to lift up the foot harden my phone I need to turn it off pardon the foot part of your foot that didn't make it it's part in the funky I lift up the foot and I take a couple stitches and I attach this tail and then I cut it okay so oh you know what I should be sewing with a color thread that doesn't match but I think you guys know how to sew I don't even want to show you how to sew so there's my dark there's the back and here's the front it makes a really good dark you may find that the dark that you have drawn might be too long might be too short might be too thick might need to be thinner might need to be fatter darts can be so many different ways they really can and don't forget that I've got both of my sides of my pants cut out for my high hip a lot of you have said what do you do when do you do it I'll show you I haven't done anything about the high hip low hip yet I have not done anything I'm putting the pin in in and out in and out in and out making sure that my lines match on the front in the back my dark lines it helps if you draw the center line of your dart but I just don't I don't know why think you so 10 trillion things you just sometimes you can just skips and that's one that I skipped these sewing machines are also different than how they sell okay I'm gonna hold the tail again now put it back up on two and a half three I will so the main seams in this Panther 3.0 stitch length why I'm lifting up my foot I'm going back up and I'm taking several stitches to tie that down I'll show it to you closing the camera just hold on one second for me here you can see the tail that's the tail where I sewed off and then I came back up and I tacked it down right here so that is never going to come unraveled or come off why do you want to do that because you don't want to backspace here on this point it is really hard for a point to look good when you sew a point into something see isn't that nice that's because I didn't sew backwards and do a back tack on that point didn't even press yet and look how good it looks really good and here's my marks there's the F for the front and the X showing this is the wrong side so my dart better be on the side those are on now we're going to go over to the iron and we're going to press the creases in these two fronts I'll meet you at the iron our two backs have been having a nap while I put the darts in the two fronts so the pleats should be nice and permanent look at that isn't that nice now if you don't like bleach in your pants don't put them I like pleats in my pants so I always put them there always so wrinkled anyway I don't think anybody's ever seen them when you're sewing with cotton it does wrinkle what am I so on with them so long with those twill that had a little bit stretch might be called a denim I'm not sure what way do you press your darts it doesn't really matter I'm pressing mine hmm I'm pressing mine to the center I think I don't seem to want to lay that way though so I'm going to press them the other way I'm gonna press mine to the side doesn't matter here's another garden the front there are dart rules but there's no dart police okay pressing them to the front and if you've done a good job so on your dart and they look absolutely beautiful alright so my darts are in my darts are pressed all I did was put it down and hold up the tip and press it okay press it the way it's gonna go you don't really need to use the Pam there but if you don't have a ham lady ladies if you don't have a ham ladies and I don't know are there any gentlemen out there now this crease goes directly into that dart if you draw it according to the pattern it won't but I move mine because I like this crease to come up up my belly into the dart you can put yours wherever you want to you can put two darts some people need two darts some people don't need any darts now there's darts in the back on the master pattern there's darts in the back but I am NOT putting the darts in the back because we're putting an elastic waistband in the back and we don't need ours we've got elastic not really your self ilium my best friend you saw her take the darks completely out of the front and she put elastic all the way around the waist you can certainly do that the exact same way we're making it if you want to put the elastic all the way around just as easy as just putting it in the back no problem so here's my two fronts and they're gonna take a nap now and then I'm gonna show you the next step that I'm going to do the backs in the Front's are all done resting their pleats are in the tucks and the front are in now this is very easy to get wrong if you have not marked the right side and the wrong side of your fabric if you have a fabric like I'm using that looks exactly the same on both sides oh my goodness I have sewn two front legs together before I have sewn the back side of one piece to the front side of the other piece I actually made a whole pair pants that way and so the front of me was the wrong side and the back of me was the right side or vice versa fortunately the marks went away and you couldn't really tell but very easy that's why I make so many marks so here's my two fronts here's my two backs I've got the creases in so I know what's right side and what's wrong side so here is a back here is a front I don't know if these two pieces go together or not I'm going to put the two creases together right sides together and look at what I've got here I've got one cross going this way and I've got another cross going that way so this can't get sewn together that can't be right so I'm gonna take the other back this one well that isn't right either I think what I have now tada this one has a plea that one doesn't have I mean a dark this one doesn't have a dark this is the other bag yes so when I put these two together so the creases the creases are both on the same side and they're touching each other here's the dark on the back of the front here's the back of the crease on the back and I've got both crotches going the same way that's what you have to have you can't have one crotch one one way in the crotch go the other way because this is the side seam over here this is the side seam and you have to have this whole side seam together so you can sew it from top to bottom we're not gonna solve we're not going to sew this part yet just forget that part you're not sewing that part we have one of the legs I don't know which like it is but it's one of the legs I still have not made the low hip correction this is four pieces cut out by the pattern and they were homemade for my high hip measurement okay so we know these two go together I am going to stab them with a pin let's find a pin I'm gonna stab him with a pen there I know those two go together I'm gonna put them on my other table now I have my other front and I had my other back and I'm going to check them too just in case I was all crazy and I didn't get that one right even though I thought I got it right I'm gonna do the same thing to this one okay wrong side of the front wrong side of the back I have to crunch curves over here I am going to saw this pant together this is the inside inseam I'm going to sew the inseam and I'm going to sew the side seam and I'm going to stab these two with the pen and I'm going to go over to the sewing machine and I am going to sum both sets of legs together I will end up with two long leg tubes let's go over to the sewing machine most of you probably don't need to watch me sew these two legs together but for those of you who are new seamstresses and you're not sure what to do I'm gonna show you how I saw the tooth likes to kiss her okay I am going to sell them with a straight stitch on 3.0 stitch length then I'm going to take them to my serger and I'm going to Serge it off if you don't have a serger you can cut that seam with pinking shears pinking shears are wonderful and they're fast you just cut it up leave it about 3/8 inch long and you won't have a seam that will stay a thousand years okay I'm a Pinner I'm a Pender oh yeah I've watched those classes on blueprint with Janet pray I went to classes years ago with Janet praise aunt Margaret Islander she was the nicest lady in the whole wide world I thoroughly enjoyed her classes so I learned from her about how you don't have to pin and I learned from Janet pray about me you don't have to pin but I don't care I still pin all right let's put this on a three I'm not sure what kind of needle I have in here but it's so unjust find so I'm not worried about it I usually stick a little note a little post-it note next to my sewing machine saying what the needle is but then I clean my room and I pick up stuff and throw it away and then it's not there all right we're gonna do a fiber I have my easy fee I don't have a lot of pens I've only got about five and I'm the janitor anyway where you put your hands you put your hand like this and you turn it like this put your hand flat and then turn and you do that down here at the part that's in your lap but you do it up here close to the sewing machine okay and then you got your tools you know your best tools our God gave you tenable oh yeah oh my goodness and what they can't cover oh goodness my husband's had cancer twice yeah anymore okay that's the side sing the side sing all sewn together I'm doing the insane now it's very easy there's nothing hard about this nothing talking at all just pinning it together I am gonna do a little cheat I've lost a little bit of weight I may have gained it back by now you know but I got a pair of the pants I made oh they're the ones I just made there's some I made in the video I did several months ago for you guys when I was making pants oh my goodness I kept falling down falling down falling down because I've lost a little weight that's the one thing about pants is you know if you get the fit right your body has to stay the same that's one reason I really like a little bit of stretch in my fabric and the last oh this pants are so fast so fast ready to him and with the circuit designs pattern system you should know the way I can turn this up so a little faster we'll see so on machines are so nice these days you guys alright there it is here's my leg see my leg which leg it is it might be the lake for my high hip it might be the leg for my low hip we shall see I'm gonna search the things that I just showed in this leg but before I do I'm gonna take it out to the three-way mirror and this is gonna be my muslin even though I'm Way past muslin stage but I've lost a little bit away so I'm gonna pull this up on my body and I'm gonna see if I like the fit here through the hip okay so see see isn't it nice here's the dark this will be on my left side my high hip yeah look at that I'm here one of my favorite sergers now my favorite serger is a baby lock surgery because they're so easy to thread this is the enlightened and it got on three of them this one happens to have kind of a cream colored thread so I'm just gonna use it since it's already threaded I've got my seams in here you can see where I sewed a deeper seam right here from when I cut off that sliver so if you don't have a serger it's okay I used to didn't have a serger I used to have a 200 dollar Kenmore and I sewed it on it for many many many years and I garments I wore to work it always sounds funny you know all these so the only thing I don't like about the enlightens is there's no no place to catch the scraps unless you buy one okay nothing to it you're just sewing you're just sewing I'll show you how pretty it looks when you surge it doesn't that look nice that's what I love about it I just tried these pants on and I have to take my usual increase in the side seam I'm really flat over here I'm really flat right here so I don't need this big a curve on the side of me plus I've lost a little weight now if I went down any further I'd have to start taking it in on the inseam too so I'm just gonna take it up here I'm going to come in here and I'm gonna mark with my iron away marker how much I have to take this in okay just make some marks back here where you got those pins and then I'll draw a nice smooth line not a jagged e one like I've got now then I'm gonna take these pins out then I'm gonna turn my pant leg this is just one pant leg this is my left leg so whatever I do to this like I'm going to do to the other buddy and I'm also gonna do it to my paper pattern this is when you use your designing stylus it has the French curve on it it's what you drew your hip with to start with I'm going to use this to crack this hip line over here somebody said do you have to have this if you're gonna buy the serpent design system I would say yes you have to have it so I can take that too there wants to be turned around this way sometimes you just have to fiddle with it now that's the way it already is you gotta end some where boy it just wants to be taken in all that way look at that I might need the straight side of the stylus actually yeah it wants to be straight I am just so straight what is with me not a strength but got straight hips my goodness let's go this way am i inverted oh my gosh look at that that doesn't look good you know sometimes you just have to use use yourself sometimes you're so straight you're not even on the silly curve look at that that is just as straight as it can be oh goodness that's just bursting so I'm gonna sew this straight right here it's just gonna take this curve off right here so let me show you if I had a 5/8 inch line where that's gonna change this too that's gonna take up you'll be able to see how much I'm gonna take off now it's gonna take off that much right there and so when I cut this little sliver off right here I'm gonna put this sliver up against the other leg when I get it sewn together I've only got one sewn together I'll put this sliver that I'm going to cut off up against the other leg and then I'll mark that pant to take that much off it's not really that much but it will help this fit me better on the summit of my body okay I'm gonna go so that and then I'm going to surge it and then I'm going to sew the other leg and then I'm gonna search it off and then I'm gonna come back and show you how to sew the crotch together I wanted to show you this little sliver here's my sliver see my sliver I have marked that this is the top and this is the bottom so this is how much I'm going to cut off the side seam of lathered leg I'm going to save it right here so it'll be waiting for me we now have two legs two legs sewn together their tubes tubes too long to stick your arm through there stick your leg through there of course so you have two tubes here there are one goes on the left one goes on the right I'm going to do something that I do I don't know if anybody else in the whole wide world does this I mentioned this in the tips and tricks video and I showed you aboard that fabric comes over because at my other house I don't have one of these but this is an absolutely wonderful wonderful thing it has no name and has a hole I have searched the world time to find this for you I can't find it so remember that you can use one of those swords that the fabric is wrapped around you just go to the clerk and say hey can I have one of those empty boards and then we'll give you one it works just as good but a little this might work a little better so we're gonna start with one leg remember we already have our creases in the pant what we want to do is there's a long scene here there's a long seam here I like to press them so they're going opposite directions how do you do opposite opposite directions of each other so when you fold the pan together those two seams fight up to each other like if you were doing a quilt block okay I don't know if anybody else on the does it like I said but I did so we're gonna start on the inseam I don't doesn't matter which way you press it just press it one way or the other I do like the two in seems to oppose each other when I'm sewing it together but I hardly ever get that right I'm gonna look and see get some pins okay so we're gonna play like you guys know I'm picky and fussy right I bet a lot of you are too all right so we're gonna play like we're gonna sew this inseam to this inseam in the crotch I want one go in that way and I want one going this way so I'm gonna put a pin making that one come toward me I'm gonna pin making this one go towards you then I'm going to take this one back away now do you know about clapper a clapper it's a wooden box I'll put a link to this below too so what a clapper does is it makes the steam stay down in what you just pressed and it sets it and it stays a whole lot better okay so I'm gonna move this little board down to the columns and I'm gonna press it the rest of the way down so there's no please or touch on the right side will take my clapper and clap it and clap it and clap it back it's like a clap it there you go I'm going to take another pin and I'm going to pin the seam at the bottom I'll bring this close to the camera so you can see what I'm talking about see the pin in the top that's just telling me make sure this thing goes this way and there it is at the bottom and you can see well maybe you can see if I hold it still you can see how nicely pressed that seam is now we're going turn it over and we're gonna do this thing this is the side seam the long side seam that's what this seam is and we're going to make it go the opposite direction of this scene this one's going that way so this seems gonna go that way they're gonna go opposite ways okay so this one and I can't tell you how many times I've gotten this wrong I check it sometimes alright so that seems going that way so this seam has to come toward me so I'm gonna put a pin in it right there so I don't forget it's got to come toward me now when you're pressing make sure you're just pressing the same don't press the whole pant because this is inside out you don't want to press your creases inside out so you're only pressing the seam allowance which has been surged okay your only person it went to a lot of trouble to get that crease in there we don't want to get out now another tool that you must have I have all kinds of them I have a baby ham I have teenager him and I have a grown-up ham these make your sewing life so much easier and this one this one is super super super fun there's a lady named Sonia and so my age and so nya and she custom makes these I mean they're all I think you can get it maybe bigger maybe smaller but you can choose your fabric for the front and your fabric for the back so I chose this fabric and I chose this fabric but I didn't make it so needed and then you can get one of these boards to hold up your grown-up ham is that fun oh you know what how do I love sewing just because off fun tools so Sonia told us that for joy because I'm getting ready to press the hip area the hip area right here this part this part isn't flat on your body so you're gonna stick a ham in there and you're gonna press this part of the seam with a ham and you know I'm pretty flat there but I still use a ham and you'll see the difference look at that wonderful it's hard to press a curve if you're doing it on a flat ironing board very very nice press that sucker if I did this right this will be a small miracle since I'm trying to talk to you and do it at the same time this seam goes that way this seam goes that way so when I press them together right-side out these two seams are going to butt up next to each other and it's gonna press really nice like a club block do you have to do it that way no hairs my pants now these pants aren't even sewn to each other yet these legs are not sewn to each other yet but look at how nice they already look you can see here where I pressed the right side this goes together nice and flat because there's not two seams going the same way that makes a ridge a bump you can see how nice that looks there where the seams meet in the middle of the pan now it's time to sew these two legs these two tubes together I'll tell you a really good tip right off the bat one of them has to be right side out and one of them has to be inside-out doesn't matter which one take one put your hand in watch the pins pull it out so now this leg is inside-out this leg is right side out why is that because we have to get to so this crotch this big curve here there's where your body is going to sit in this big curve we'd have to get the right sides together in order to sew it so you have to put one leg inside the other leg okay so we're gonna take the right side of this pant and we're gonna stick it inside this pant leg because the right side of this pant leg is on the inside so we're gonna take this the right side up pant leg and stick it into the wrong side out pant leg stick it in there pull it down and watch out for pins now you're going to take those two big curves and you're gonna match them up if you're to this point in your pant and you've got these two legs side by side touching each other you should have an out an inside seam showing here's an inside seam showing on that side turn it around there's an inside seam showing on this side because the two right sides are touching each other look at that come to me come to see then we're going to pin there's a big new shape it's worse that's where your bottoms gonna go we're gonna pin this big u-shape and then I'll let you watch me show show it show it together I'm going to pin this big you together I'm going to start at these two seams these two seams right here there's one there's one it's flat the rest of the way up that's the back this is flat the rest of the way up that's the front this is the bottom of the crotch between your legs we're going to match these two together and I have one turned one way one turned the other way so they're going to match up to each other like in a quilt block now these two don't press together there's gonna be one on one leg one on the other leg and oh you can't see my legs playing like these are my legs one seams there one seams here but the center the part that comes up and touches your body you're gonna be sewing this together and if you have the seams fighting up to each other it's a much flatter it's a much flatter join okay that's the only reason you do it there alrighty I'll be back and we'll sew this u-shape crotch curve together and after that after that after that is when I do my low hip adjustment stay with me I have the crotch pinned together right sides together I can see an inside seam here I can see an inside seam here I can open it up and see that the right sides are touching it's not fun ripping all this stuff out check it three times the so that was it does not if you turn your sewing machine on because this is a new day and it helps if you take the table off so you have the little arm alright so 5/8 inch seam all the way around 5/8 inch and I'm using a three the stitch length of three all right that's so much easier just all around the corner of this you if you don't have that table on their most sewing machines are like this nowadays here's my seams that are going to be like a foot block [Applause] but go backwards backwards forwards because that area gets a lot of stress some of the patterns will tell you to sew over it twice I'm going to surge it so it'll already be sown over twice around and around and around Oh Thunder side I love my sewing room and I have not done my low hip yet both sides both legs of this pant are identical right now they are identical so what I'm gonna do for that low hip adjustment after I search this sink you guys don't need to watch me search the sink I'm gonna search all around this I'm crouched and I'm going to search it pretty close down here you want to make sure that this 5/8 inch that's cut off pretty low that's why they have you so twice there because you don't want this coming up into your body and you'll always be pulling your pants down pulling your pants down so you want that crotch area right there to be cut pretty low quarter of an inch would be great okay so how do I fix the low hip pulling my pants apart I now have a pair of pants without a waistband you see I have a pair pants without a waistband now I'm kind of embarrassed to tell you this but I have many times cut the wrong side down what happens when I do that I have to cut the other side down twice as much that's why I wait until now I wait until now and I mark the back how will I mark the back I don't have a marker hair oh here's one I'm gonna mark the back the back is the one with the longest crotch and I'm gonna ride be okay and on the front the front has the two darts I'm gonna write F yeah that's on the inside I'm also gonna write it on the outside up here where the waistband is gonna sew on I'm gonna put it out you see there see that ass and here at the back Center back I'm gonna put a B Tay why do you put two letters for the back I don't know I don't know so now I've got both sides of the back mark with B I've got both sides of the front mark with an F so now I can play like I'm putting the pants on play like I'm putting the pants on here's the front so that means this is the right side and that means this is the left side I know that the left side is already right I don't have to do anything to it the right side is the one and I am going to measure down here on the side seam right here I'm gonna measure down one half inch follow me over to the table and I'll show you how I do it let me put a big pin X right there just in case between the sewing machine in the table I forget what side I'm marking yeah this pant flipped it brought it over here turn it upside down backwards and everything else and if I did not have the back marked and the front marked and this pin showing me this is my right side of my body I could very easily cut the wrong side off okay so what I'm gonna do take these two pins out and I'm gonna put right here and are just in case oh the phone could ring somebody could walk in okay I'm marking this down 1/2 inch there's my 1/2 inch line right there now I have to taper that to nothing so I need this to lay there pretty straight I need to taper that 1 inch line to nothing over here at centre-back so I'm gonna draw it I'm gonna draw it before I cut it see there there's my line this is the top of the pant here at my right side which is my low side okay so I've marked that with a stripe I'm gonna turn it over to the front now the Front's marker because it has that dart in it so it's a little harder to do but I've done it so many times I'm gonna try to make that act like it's straight even though it isn't and I'm gonna go from that 1/2 inch line over here to the front it's really hard to do when it's not completely straight but it'll work yeah so there's my line there's my line in the front see I'm going to cut this off I'm going to cut this on that blue line and that makes the right side of this pant one half inch lower at the side and then it tapers to nothing in the center so that is how I do it my pant is now ready it's now ready for a waistband I'm gonna go get some lunch and I'll be back stay with me we're ready to do the waistband now so the first thing you want to do in this kind of a waistband remember our waistband is gonna be flat in the front and it's gonna have elastic in the back so what I did was I matched up the center front of my waistband to my pant and I moved it over here to the side seam and I held it with my finger then I moved it over here to this side same and I held it with my finger so this much of this waistband is going to be on the front of me so I have a piece of interfacing here I'm using a little heavier interfacing this is Palmer plushies tailor so it's a little stiffer and I want it stiff because I want that waistband to stand up so I'm just gonna measure from here to here and make a mark make a mark this is my waistband it's just a flat piece one layer of a way of interfacing that's what I'm using it's a little stiffer it stretches one way it does not stretch the other way now I'm making it so the stretch stretches with the waistband around me going up and down it won't stretch so I'm gonna put this waistband right here over to the mark I'm a little wind it up cuz that's how much I need no this isn't the center of the waistband I'm just using that as a measuring tape right now okay and this is how wide I need it so I'm going to take my ruler you all can see I'm a quilter I'm getting ready to finish this one right here this is Ed of the sitars winter village but that has nothing to do with making pants but I know you always ask me what's that in the background alright this is my new quilter select ruler Oh wonderful even if you don't quilt having these quilting rulers makes your sewing so much easier so I'm going to go over to the sewing machine see this is the front just interfacing will be right here inside the waistband so I'm gonna go over to the ironing board and I'm going to iron this interfacing to this waistband I will fold it in half find it Center front then I will line it up I've got the wrong side mark with all these axes I will put the center front of the interfacing to the center front of the waistband just like that and I will iron it on there so all the backside that's left all of that side that's left that's going to go around my back and that's going to have a seam in the center back I will probably cut several inches off but I hope I'll cut Sarah just off of it now you know that these interface things come with little glue dots on them maybe you don't know all of you your new seamstresses interfacing is wonderful these days because one side of its got glue dot and you can just iron down to your fabric it's wonderful okay so center of the interfacing and center of the waistband which is just the phone remember I cut the waistband the full width of this fabric so just the center of that okay we're going to get a press cloth do you know about press cloth the best press pause in the whole wide world are these organza ones I used to buy them at Hancock's I don't know where you can get them out but I know you can still get them if I can find them on Amazon I'll link to that magazine you you just click on it read the directions on your interfacing package see if you're supposed to steam it not steam it hold it down for five seconds hold it down for 30 seconds read the directions that come with your interfacing alrighty now that is iron down so this is the center front of my waistband I am going to press it in half the whole length I'm going to press in half now if you're drawing the right fan with the serpent designs master pattern you're going to have some notches and some marks I don't need those for this kind of a waistband because it's going to have elastic the front is just going on one to one and the back is too big already because we made the top of the pant too big why did we make the top of the pant too big we made it too big for our waist but we did not make it too big for here because the pet has to pull up it doesn't have a zipper it has to pull up over the widest part of your tummy and your hip okay so that's why we have to bring it back in with elastic otherwise our pants with distance yeah and they look like those crazy kids wear their pants oh my gosh I just saw em I just saw some guy Jerry and I just couldn't even believe anything was at the Oscars the Academy Award something and the guys are singing some song we couldn't understand a single word of it was rap we had no idea the audience all seemed to know what the words were the guy's pants were halfway down his but that would be torture I've got to work something like that and then the other person goes out and think oh that's really nice I'm gonna wear my like that and then they just look like morons in my opinion turn to your neighbor and say she's always giving us her always will be ok here we go this is half our waistband mister center front it's gonna wrap around to the back like this I will be taking probably this much look how much that is I'll probably be taking that much off the ends okay that's why I cut it the whole width of the fabric because you can figure out what length it needs to be at this time of the process of sewing this pant together all right you got your pants you got your waistband we're going to put the two together the crotch seam is surged and pressed which way do you press the crotch thing it doesn't matter it doesn't matter at all the only thing that matters is that you press the same the entire length of the you okay now I'm going to take a pin and I'm going to pin it in here so I'm sure I don't turn the crotch seam around when I'm Curt pinning the waistband off okay because seams don't stay put until you cross another seam over them all right so I'm gonna take the waistband we're going to find Center front of the waistband we're going to match it up with center front of the pant and we're gonna put a pin in it then we're gonna just pull this I'm stretching it just a teeny-weeny bit just a teeny-weeny bit over to the side seam just a tab because the pant stretches they both stretch to the same fabric but I just want to make sure that it stays nice and flat against my roly-poly waist alright so there we are Center front side seam and a pin in the middle now we're gonna go the other way senator front to side seam 1 2 1 and then I'm just gonna pull it a tab an eighth of an inch just a tab just to put a little tension and that's not enough tension that's still one to one just a little tension tension is good material alright now let's look and see which way the darts are supposed to be I've got one going one way one going the other so I'm gonna pin the darts go in the same direction towards the center okay so - here's side seam side seam center front dark area dark area okay I have that all pinned now we're going to do the same thing in the back we have to make sure this waistband is going to come on over our hip and our belly we'd have to make sure so what I'm gonna do is pin it let's set your back let me make a mark Center bag right there then I'm going to take this other side and I'm gonna bring it around to the center back and I'm gonna make a mark right there so I have two marks see my two marks you can see em I can't here's one and here's one I'm gonna go take a seam in this waistband and I'm going to sew it together then I'm gonna take it off these pants and I am gonna go in the other room and I'm gonna pull it up on my body to make sure it comes over my hip over my belly and up to my waist that's what I'm gonna do an extra step yes but you would be very very sorry if you got this all put together here goes pin so I just put in there you'd be very very sorry if you went to all this trouble and put that elastic in there and everything else and the thing would not come up over your hip and your belly so we're gonna open this up I'm not gonna cut anything off yet I'm not gonna cut anything off because if this won't come up over me I'm gonna be in trouble in fact I think I'm just gonna do a quick hit now this is a really good way to her yourself is to be lazy and no those always just pin it just pin it and fold it and I am going to go ahead and cut off some of this we certainly don't need all of that didn't Laura not that okay so I've shortened it a lot but I've got a shortened a little bit more I have enough here that I can add on if I need to alright so I'm gonna fold this in half so look what I've done I've just pinned I've pinned the semen that's where I want to sew a seen but instead of sewing it right now I am going to try to put it up on my body with these pins in it and hope that one doesn't end up permanently embedded in my backside okay alright I'll just let you watch me I'm gonna pull this up put the pins in the front so I don't fail myself I can see them and watch it look here and I have a pair of jeans on look there comes easily up easily up I can get it on because it's stretchy it's got a little bit of stretch in it and I love that and why do I love having a little bit of stretch in this because you don't have to have it six inches longer if there was no stretch in this it would have to be much longer because there wouldn't be any stretch factor let me see how far it stretches probably doesn't stretch that far let's look and see it's at nineteen and a half I could stretch this from nineteen and a half to 21 and a half 19 and a half to 21 and a half and that's folded in half so that's a lot of stretch in this waistband and that means I won't have to have a zillion million gathers in the back part of the waistband okay all I'm gonna do is pin it right back on just like I showed you and then I'm going to sew it on and then I will be back let me show you this this is the waistband without the pins I sewed where the pins were I sewed across at two and a half I'm one of the tighter seam there and then I searched it now I'm going to fold it in half lengthwise this seam will be in the center back there will not be any themes anywhere else on this waistband this seam will be in the center back of the pant and I'm going to do my little trick that I like to do and I'm going to cut this right in the center right there because I want to turn one way and one the other way and fold them together so we have a crisscross again to match up to each other and since it's enclosed like that I don't think it'll ever Ravel or ever come apart if you want to put a little dab of glue there alright so that's the center back of the waistband now oh how nice is that well let me just tell you one little thing we're gonna do on the waistband the waistband is finished in the front it's not in the back because we have to thread the elastic through it so we are going to leave about a two inch opening when we're sewing the waistband on we're going to leave a 2-inch unsewn area right here and right here on the side a little bit toward the front a little bit toward the front and the rest toward the back we're gonna leave an opening not sewn so we can slip the elastic up in there slide it back and forth attach it at 1 then put the pan on and pull it see if we need more so you put need less mess with you stick after we get the elastic in there we will leave enough that it extends past the side seam then we will finish sewing well um let me see when do you sew that on you sew that on I'll show you when I get to that part okay but you want a little bit of elastic I especially want a little bit of elastic I'll probably leave at least half an inch because if I gain the five pounds of justfox but getting it back again I'll open it up and I'll extend that out and give me a little more stretch right I'm sewing on the band now I'm still gonna leave my table off and I'm gonna use the open arm now so I don't forget I'm going to give myself a guide I know that the two darts are in the front so I know this is front I know that centre front I know this is a side seam and I know this is the back right here on the side seam I'm going to put a line that says don't sew here and I'm going to take another pin and I'm going to cross it over the pin that's there that's alike hello this means something stop so when you get here so let me find the other side team there center back Center front here's the side seam I'm going to take my marker that has now disappeared where did you go I tell you what your markers just disappeared I'm sure you guys saw where it went could you please tell me where my marker go okay so I'm gonna do the same thing that's the back I want the biggest opening to be in the back about an inch and a half and I want a little bit to be toward the front so I've marked that and here's my pin I know that I never put two pins because you certainly can't sew over that that's just a not to me that says something different happens here so as I'm sewing all the way around the pant I'm going to stop I'm going to walk with hitches stop move forward into the half block my stitches again sew all the way around to that other marked line and do the same thing because I'm leaving those two areas open so I have a place to put my elastic let's start I'm going to sew this with three again just in case something happens and I make a mistake knowing that I'm prone to that all right this must be the front do you have a dart yes you do you can always remember those darts are in the front we didn't book the darts in the back remember yeah and then what you'll end up doing is cutting a bunch of ATAR you'll Serge it and cut a bunch of it off take your pins out check your side seams to make sure that they're going the direction you told them to go because when you're sewing on your sewing machine they can turn around plastic you remember in my earlier video I showed you how I turn the end of the elastic to make it a little bulkier and I stick the pin in it and I wrap tape around the pinhead then I find a pair of scissors and I cut the tape off because you can't get the pin off if you don't now when I was putting this elastic in here it twisted but it's very easy to just figure out where it twisted and catch it and turn it around okay you can see here I have a mild of elastic hanging out here how can I leave it there I am see now my elastic is in the back I probably will have to pull it much much much tighter I'll probably have to pull it more like that see I'm gonna go in the other room in the mirror I'm gonna take my jeans off I'm gonna pull these up I'm gonna put this around my waist I'm gonna bend I'm gonna stretch I'm gonna walk I'm gonna move and I'm going to see how exactly long I want this elastic to be then I'm going to cut it off or mark it and righteous mark it and put a pin and then I'll show you how to finish we're almost done we are almost done all we have left is to him I don't think you need me to show you how to hem it do you I'll show you a quick spot of that okay Tryon is over I tried the pants on that was so happy with them so instead of having a mile of elastic cannula we have that much elastic hanging out let me give you a tip this is a really really good safety tip when you're messing with the back of your pants and the elastic use safety pins don't use straight pins I have hurt myself really really bad putting straight pins deep into my fingers messing with the back so I'm going to go over to my sewing machine I'm going to push this piece up in up inside the band up in here with my finger remember I told you I was gonna leave a little extra just in case so I'm sticking that up in there so it's going toward the front there won't be the attention on the front but it's going toward the front then on this side I am going to sell two lines of stitching right here right at the side seam I'm going to do it first so I can take that pin out we're going to solve some stitching right here then I'm going to stitch this closed on the inside then I'm gonna go to the other side and do the same thing still got my table off cuz I'm not completely done with this yet so I am going to sew I'm gonna make sure my elastic I'm pushing it with my fingers so it's all the way up to the top of this band well pin it there I'm gonna pin underneath it so I can't slide down then I'm gonna sew a line of stitching with a three I may pull this out later and make a prettier one I don't know but for now fact I'm gonna put it on the floor I'm gonna put it on a basting stitch just a holder see I just sewed it right there a straight stitch basting stitch now I can remove this pin I can remove this safety pin and now that elastic is not going anywhere and I've got an itch I've got probably an inch and a half sticking into the front but there's no tension on it but that gives me extra elastic in case I need to give myself more room later and which is wonderful because what happened years ago when I made so many pair of pants I gained some weight and then the pants were too tight for me and so all my hard work just sat in the closet for years but they did all right so I just solved that side on you remember the Green Line now I left it open there's the Green Line and it's now all sewn shut and I will search this entire seam on this waistband is sewn on the entire way around the elastic is in the back that's another really nice thing about these pants you can open up one of these side seams that you just sew shut so you just Unsoeld the band there where that green mark is and then you can pull your elastic tighter okay I think that I should do that before I surgeon so let me just do it pretend oh that's good that's real good are you all ready for spring I am so ready for spring all right I'm gonna come around where you guys are over here to my serger and I'm going to Serge this then all I have to do is put the hem in the bottom and where are these pants I'm almost completely around this waistband surging it up but I wanted to show you something important this is stretchy remember it has a little bit of stretch yours might not but either way you need to hold it in the front and in the back you if you have a woven you'll just hold it just relaxed hold it don't pull it if you pull it you'll break your needle do not pull it really easy to do guess how I know you don't want to break your needle but you don't want this too so with this all rumpled up because of the elastic so you have to stretch it but stretch it and don't pull it I'm pulling it toward me and just holding it in the back okay and that way we go you can see the elasticy part that's the back and then you can see the smooth part that's the front so I'll just press that I'll press all of that down into the pant you don't have to top stitch it or anything some elastics will allow you to sew through them but this one won't and it's not necessary and I used that kind of a stiff elastic so it'll stand up good in there and see here's the front with the interfacing okay so you're going to turn your pants inside out inside out you have a raw edge down here at the bottom of these legs you have a raw edge I'm going to Serge that edge and then I'm going to fold it up and hem it but before i surge it I'm going to press the hem allowance into it okay and I'm going to use my free board I'm thinking this was an inch if I knew where my pattern was which I don't at the moment I would go one but I'm gonna say it was an inch I think let's try an inch and see if it plays good yeah a niche plays real good because there's an allowance in the pattern for fold up of the hem so it will touch it will touch the fabric you know as you go higher up the pant the pant with changes so you need your hem to allow for that so that's why you have to hem it the way you cut it and I can tell that this was an inch now all right inch inch an inch seems I'm just going to press it in between because I want to go and surge it am I gonna use the steam a seam I don't think it's necessary this is not that stretchy if you have something very stretchy you want to use the steam a seam or when you sew your seam in it'll be all ruffle tee uncle T that's why you use the steam a seam this one's a little off check it check it check it over and over one inch of course I'm a perfectionist so I have seen Angela wolf Angela wolf does this for a living but I have seen her just do the pinup each side and just pop it like this and sew it in I'm not that trusting of my poppin skittles if you are then go for it but I'm not alright okay so now I'm going to take this over to the searcher and I'm going to search all the way around that edge but first I've got to do the other leg gonna do this leg just like the other leg I don't have to hem my short side any different than my long side do you know why I used to always always have to still do this I like a lot pants I always have to hem the right leg hired by 1/2 inch but I don't have to do it when I make pants because the actual difference in the length of my legs is in my hip I had a chiropractor tell me that once I said I would make sure in the oh what'd he say perfect you're right for the same the difference is in your hips well okay then I guess that makes you wiggle when you are did you know that Marilyn Monroe crazy what comes to your mind Marilyn Monroe used to have the heel of one shoe cut off the quarter inch shorter so the one shoe would be longer and one would be shorter and when she walked it would make her a little more so lucky for me I have a built-in natural wiggle I'm so excited when I heard that oh my god baby this one purpose it's so I can leave a window i okay go and I die so we've got both of them pressed up I'm gonna go search both of them and I'll be back here's another little tip I have my pants turned inside out to search this hem edge because you cannot get just to wrap around your serger it's too big so you are you concerned when you have a small circle and you can't get it you know to lay flat search it from the inside and I just pick a place on this foot to line it up with and then I just go all the way around it so the right side is on the inside and the wrong sides on the outside and this needs a pad under it so it will put scooching all right so now I'm going to go over to my sewing machine I've already got the open arm on and you can see me let's just walk over there I've still got the pant leg inside out folding the him up on that crease line that I made wrapping it over the open arm and I'm sewing it from the inside I'm using a three stitch I've moved my needle over to where I want it to so exactly on the end just holding it in front and back so it'll be flat one back stitch this is such a nice family back stitch cut him done him done beautiful him is done that's the inside turn the pants right side out this path is ready to wear oh my goodness it's ready to wear go downstairs in my closet find the top that matches it and then I'm gonna put it on in mom with Maria first I'm going to the iron to give it a last press then I'll be back from my last clip

Channel: Joy Bernhardt

Views: 22,202

Rating: 4.8830771 out of 5

Keywords: sewing, Joy Bernhardt, Surefit Designs, Sure-fit Designs, Sure-fit Designs Pants Kit, how to sew pants, how to make pants, pants sew along

Id: hOe8xLQwTaE

Length: 85min 24sec (5124 seconds)

Published: Sun Feb 16 2020