How to Replace the Thermostat on a 6.7 Dodge Cummins Truck that Won't Warm Up and overheats

what's everybody on Tom Morten today I'm working on my truck again you're welcome to come along we are replacing our thermostat in our 2010 dodge ram 3500 [Music] Saturday we're going to be replacing the thermostat in our truck because for quite some time now our truck has not been warming up all the way I think that our thermostat on our truck is stuck partially open the truck will only get to around a hundred and seventy degrees or so in the coolant and then kind of maintain that also though when we've been climbing steep hills the truck has started to overheat which we have never seen before either it goes up to where the fan kicks on it slows down for a little bit and then it just keeps going so I don't think that the thermostat is opening all the way either I think it's stuck somewhere in the middle I got a brand new thermostat here I went ahead and got the Cummins original part because this is a part I don't want to necessarily have to replace a lot I thought I'd go ahead and get the original because the truck has 200,000 miles on it and the original one lasted almost that long so we're gonna go ahead and replace this today I've never done this project before so you come along hopefully learn something hopefully not learn by my mistakes but I'm gonna show you what I do if you get this replaced so take a look at the engine here you can find where the thermostat is located by following the coolant line into the radiator from the engine it runs along here and goes into this cast metal bracket right here the thermostat is located underneath this cast metal bracket now unfortunately on these newer engines with all the submission stuff this is the EGR and the EGR pipe that comes over to the intake that needs to come off so that we can get down here and remove the bolts there's one right there there's one here and the other one is well underneath this so this all needs to come off but before we need you're gonna do that this is all full of coolant through this hose I'm gonna drain the coolant a little ways so that we can hopefully crack this without spilling coolant everywhere if we don't get it all out it's not too big a deal but it'll be a little bit of a mess first I'm going to start by just cracking the cap so that air can get into the system just gonna leave it like that all right underneath the truck now I'm going to just crack the the kulit drain in the bottom left corner of the radiator and I'm probably going to drain out just about a gallon you don't need to drain out all the fluid in the truck because we only need to drain it down just enough we're not going to spill everywhere it's kind of a twist and pull and try not to get too spider bite [Applause] while that drains down I'm going to use an 8 millimeter nut here and we are going to remove this plastic shroud on top of the engine that covers the EGR pipe you do need to remove the oil dipstick just for a moment set it aside so that you can remove this plastic shielding all in one piece go ahead and wipe the dipstick clean and reinsert it all right we drained about a gallon of the coolant out you can come up here you actually squeeze this hose and feel there's no resistance and here that it's basically empty so there shouldn't be too much fluid in there next thing we need to do is remove this the cross pipe for the EGR we're gonna do that by taking off of this this clamp here and the clamp on the other side and the stainless steel tube should be able to be removed you're also gonna have to remove any plugs that are connected to it yeah in this truck there's just one right here let's go ahead and remove this little electrical thing there's these little safety clips you gotta press in and pull out on them they can be a real pain sometimes there's a thing on the back of this you need to squeeze okay now I've got a 7/16 inch deep socket here that fits over nicely on this spring clip here and we're just gonna go ahead and we're gonna loosen that spring clip now you can go ahead and remove the clip altogether and this pipe is you can see it's starting to free up now we gotta go do the same on the other side all right now we're on the other side here a little bit of heat shielding it's kind of in the way but I can get my ratchet on this one as well all right well this one doesn't want to come off as easy there we go all right got the two spring clips off now this pipe should in theory come off there we go all right so it turns out that there's a bracket right in there so that bracket attaches to the pipe and goes down and there's actually a bolt into the block right down in front here right on top of behind the pulley behind the idler pulley I don't know how I'm gonna be able to get that bolt off so it turns out I could get an eight millimeter socket on an extension and wiggle it underneath the the coolant line and get it on to the bolt that holds it on to the bracket here and I can actually loosen it it's a little tiny 8 millimeter bolt in there and that holds it onto this thing I already broke it loose so probably will come right off with a couple turns and there it is so here's the EGR pipe all off and that's the little bracket I was talking about with that little 8 millimeter bolt that went under there so here's what it looks like with the EGR cross tube off you can see how nasty and city that is these stupid things are the death of these engines and there's that little bracket that I was able to get the socket underneath and move that alright next we're gonna do here we're gonna take off this old teeth shielding thing I don't know what that is and remove these two bolts here so we can get at the bolts pop that out once again it looks like these are eight millimeter bolts no we're just gonna go ahead and loosen doesn't look like I have to fully remove them this piece just slides out like that ooh there's a gasket that we're in between the EGR pipe don't lose these you're gonna want to put them back on when you reinstall this all right now we can see we're looking down on the coolant tube comes in here and we've got this cast piece the thermostat sits underneath right here and that is gonna have the whole thing's gonna come up this is luckily just rubber so it should just pull right up but it looks like we've got maybe a manifold exhaust pressure line right here we're probably gonna have to remove this and remove this so that this whole thing can caught without breaking any of that the line that goes back there there's the little table on the sensor now I'm gonna go ahead and use a 12 millimeter wrench here go ahead and take take this out we're now just going to go ahead and get a ratchet down on these bolts that hold down the horn here I'm just gonna remove those we got those three bolts out now we're just gonna go ahead and gently lift up on this oh yeah it's loose let's set the camera down now you may notice some fluid spill out all right there it is the thermostat it doesn't look craft open but we'll pull it out and take a look I just lifted the hose up and set it there now we're just gonna get in here with the weight probably need a screwdriver I'm just gonna pop that up huh there it is the old thermostat we can look down in here and look into the engine try not to get anything to fall in this hair you'd rather not have it in there you can see that when it's a fully closed this seats against that ring in there and prevents the coolant from getting into the radiator but this one looks okay but it's clearly not performing properly so I'm gonna go ahead and pop the new one in so here's the old one here's the new one taking a look at him one thing is clearly obvious there is a rubber seal all around the outside of this one here and this seal is completely gone so that's probably where the leak is it's probably just going in yeah actually I can see I can see the light in around the edges so the fluids just go by passing into the radiator all the time yeah even when it doesn't tell it to open so this one seal is intact unfortunately that seals gone so that probably means that it's in my cooling system somewhere antastic I'm hoping that this one is just not opening all the way as well and that's our overheating issue I would imagine because it happened the same time as this one but new one looks a lot nicer doesn't it time to put it in all right now we're just gonna take this new one we're just gonna set it back in place just like that that's all there is to it now we just reassemble that gas seal on the outside the gasket is going to seal it up once we bolt it down and that's it go ahead and reassemble everything and you should be good to go I did not record putting it all back together but basically reverse everything we did to take it apart and you should be good to go I do have video of refilling the radiator with coolant from when I replaced the water pump in this truck now we actually we need to open this this vent right here because you're the truck has the the EGR this is the the highest point so we need to open this up and then we start filling the thing with the radiator with fluid until we see it overflow at this point and then the system is completely full all right we got our vent open and now we just start filling now this stuff that we're using is already pre diluted I prefer to get the full strength stuff because and we just mix it in our gallon or five-gallon bucket and pour it in and it's cheaper that way but this is all they had and this we're gonna do so it's a little easier though cuz then we just dump it in Billy is kind of a - big funnel for this application but it's what I got and it's working now we're just gonna wash until we see fluid overflow about that all right so there it is you never float a little bit I just add a little bit more so you can see what it looks like just see it burbling out there so that means that she's full to the top now we're just gonna cap her up here the systems fill alright throw the cap back on and now fill your reservoir to the max line alright now we're gonna start the truck and run it until the thermostat opens until it's almost at operating temperature and we're gonna watch the coolant level in the reservoir check for coolant leaks around the thermostat housing and keep an eye on the coolant level for the next few operating cycles so it's been a few months since we installed the new thermostat and it's been working as it should the truck warms up pretty quickly and holds its temperature solid at 190 degrees Fahrenheit that's something to consider when you're placing a thermostat in your vehicles that thermostats come in different temperature ratings and you might want to replace it with the same temperature that it originally had or depending on if you've made modifications to your engine you might want to change the temperature our overheating issue seems to be resolved as well while we haven't pulled in the mountains we have pulled up some large hills where we started to see the truck warm up previously and this time it held it nice and cool so I think that our overheating problem has been solved as well overall this was a relatively easy project to do I think anyone with some do-it-yourself skills and basic tools should be able to tackle this as always we hope this video has earned your subscription if so please hit that like button hit that subscribe button and we'll see you all next time [Music]

Channel: Mortons on the Move

Views: 201,441

Keywords: Cummins 6.7 thermostat replacement, how to replace cummins 6.7 thermostat, replacing 6.7 thermostat, dodge thermostat replacement, how to replace thermostat, what is a car thermostat, cummins thermostat replacement, RV thermostat replacement, cummins 6.7 breakdown, cummins 6.7 overheating, cummins 6.7 not warming up, dodge overheat thermostat, dodge not warming up, cummins not warming up, cummins running cold, how to, DIY, DIY thermostat, Mortons on the move, fulltime RV DIY

Id: b3WNIaiU3xg

Length: 14min 41sec (881 seconds)

Published: Wed Dec 05 2018