How to Repair Ford Hydraulics: Lift and Draft Control for 600, 700, 800, 900, 2000, 4000 Tractors

welcome to my shop my name is Rachel kinjal in this video I'm going to show you how to repair the hydraulics on a Ford tractor behind me is a Ford 800 but these techniques apply to a 500 600 700 800 or 900 tractor as well as the O 1 Series meaning a work master or power master and even if you have a early 2000 or 4000 Ford with the four-cylinder gas engine you'll be able to follow along now notice that I did not say naa or a Jubilee those tractors look at the same but the hydraulic system is different in this video won't help you you will know that you have a tractor that applies to this video if you have a flat spot in the middle of your axle instead of a nut like a Jubilee or if these pieces here are solid on a Jubilee that won't apply or naa but if you have holes in it like mine then you have a tractor that would apply to this system there are other differences between those models and I have a separate video that outlines them in great detail so if you need help identifying your tractor you should click over to that video first if you have a tractor that you know will apply go ahead and follow along at the end I know that you'll have the confidence to repair the hydraulics on your own tractor [Music] here are some common problems on Ford tractor hydraulics maybe you have the same problem on your tractor one problem is a loss of draft control meaning that you can move your arms up or down but in between there's really no control my lever I don't know if you can see how easily this moves down it shouldn't move this easily another symptom would be arms that jerk or shake they just don't go smoothly up and down another problem would be within the top lid meaning that the tractor arms will go up but then it slowly drifts down on its own like they won't hold and implement up or just hydraulics that don't work at all those are all symptoms that we are going to address in this video hopefully you have those same problems we'll talk more about troubleshooting as we go along the very first thing that you want to do to help you diagnose your tractor is to remove this cap right here start up the tractor shine a flashlight in the hole don't put your hands in the hole but just shine your flashlight in the hole and see if you can see any of the oil moving around if you can hear the oil raining down that would give you an indication that there's a problem with the relief valve or within the top lid cylinder or piston if you can see it moving around that'll help you know where the oil is going or not going within your system so before you take anything apart I would recommend taking this cap off shining a flashlight in there and seeing what you can see the oil doing because that will help you once you take the tractor apart it's harder to diagnose so take the time to go ahead and look in there see if you see the oil moving down or around in the bottom and that will help you out now I am going to take off the bolts around here around the perimeter I am NOT going to take out these ones in the middle here because those hold the cylinder in so I'm gonna leave these three and just remove the ones around the outside edge here which will free up my top lid to come off also in the back here I do have these arms that hold the three-point iron those pins come out every once in a while I have to keep those pins up they'll be really rusted but they should just pull out to free up the arm so that the top lady can come off the tractor up here I'm going to take these four bolts off so this plate will come off and then then there's one bolt underneath there that holds the cylinder I'm gonna take that one bolt off I'm going to take the one bolt off underneath the plate and leave the other three to hold the cylinder into place using a pry bar to pry underneath the draught control seat spring here to loosen up my top lid then once it's loose I can pick it up and pull it back towards me but I'm picking it up far enough so that I don't damage this linkage that's here so be careful when you pull it back not to pull it back too far and rest on that once it's up it's easier to lift up onto the bench but I'm gonna get some help with that the very first problem that I see on my top link has to do with this pivot pin down here this is a commonly overlooked piece but it's vitally important if your tractor does not have draft control meaning there's no in-between and it's entirely likely that the problem is within your pivot pin you can see how worn my pivot pin is right there it rides along this cam and it just wears out mine is worn but I have seen them broken off completely and yours may be the same here's what a new pivot pin looks like you can see that it should be completely round and about that long so if yours looks different than you probably have a pivot pin problem as well like I said it's very common a pivot pin is a very affordable part to add to your cart so that you have it on hand if you are going to order parts before you take your tractor apart go ahead and add the pivot pin because it's just so likely that that's a problem you can see that I took two cotter pins out here to free up this linkage once I have this free this entire piece will just pull out I'm going to set it aside that allows me to move this cam forward so that I can get to the pivot pin easier so I'm going to hold this up I'm gonna put like a big screwdriver right underneath here to kind of hold that in place it's not blocking the pin from coming out it's just holding it in place then I'm gonna swing around here to the front of the table I have a punch that is appropriately sized I'm going to hold the punch on here in place and then I'm just gonna give it some good whacks and it'll come right out okay it just went through I'm gonna pull it out and set it here on the magnet so you can see how worn it is that is an excellent example I'm so glad that was broke like that so you could see how old bad it is definitely needs to be replaced I have my new pivot pin in my hand I sprayed some wd-40 on it sort of slide in the hole a little bit easier this you just punch it right in just like you took the old one out you have to get it perfectly straight if you get it crooked you're in trouble so make sure you get it in straight this is a pivot pin that we sell ours is a hardened metal that is improvement over the original style so it should last longer this is a part that my grandpa developed and he when he died he had a whole box he had about 100 of them so I have those and I've been using them on my tractors they've worked really good and I have those available to you too if you need a new pivot pin so I'll just set this in here I'll add some safety glasses and I'll just drive it right in I drove my pin in all the way until it's flush you want to do the same by replacing this pivot pin you are taking the sloppiness out of the linkages once I hook this back up will notice a big difference in the way that these linkages operate this is an important step I know that it's hard but stick with it you don't want to skip this please note that if you are working on a 10 series 4 to an A or a or a Jubilee that the older tractors have the same pivot pin setup so this is one step that will apply across models taking off my last bolt here so I can free up the lever the lever should come out let me give it a little tab looks like really good stuck in there once I have the lever out then this control plate will come off mine was terribly accid eyes so I did heat it up so I'm just being careful here how I touch it since it might still be a little bit hot you may have to heat up yours as well the original plates are aluminum a new replacement plate would be steel so this is a better upgrade to take off the aluminum and put the steel on let me get a second prior behind it just keep prying it off you might have to hit it with a hammer a little bit if you need to I notice that I'm hitting the plate I'm not I'm not hitting this part right here since that is threaded I don't want to do some damage there so get yours off notice that there is a key underneath here and then there should be a court could gasket underneath there you can see only about half of mine is on there I'm going to get all of this uh often out of place I have my new cork ready to go on this is going to make such a nice improvement over where it was this is going to give me resistance so that when I put the lever into place it'll stay where I want it to stay rather than just saying down on its own after I put the cork on I got to put the key back on since the cork won't slide over with that key in place I'm gonna rest it there and then just start tap it in to hold with the hammer there I have my new friction disc here I'm gonna line up the key and then it will slide right on must not have my key and quite enough because this is going on a little bit hard when you take that off and see if I can tap my key and it's a little bit further yeah I saw it moved there okay try again on the friction disc here keys go giving me a little bit of a hang up it's just not straight across let me try again no turn it around as I loosen that up it kind of wants to roll okay third try and it works okay so I have my friction disk and I'm gonna spin this around and then I have my new lever which will go into place my old lever was bent and this one will just work a lot better I'm replacing everything else new so why wouldn't I want to put a new lever on it while I'm at it I'm gonna tighten up both of these bolts here and then put my nut on the end and this will be all set be sure to make an adjustment to your resistance if you over tighten your lock nut this lever will be way too hard to move so just play with it a little bit make sure that it has a good amount of resistance and you can change that by backing out your lack nut or moving in a little bit farther in front of me are the pieces that you are going to need to repair the top lid on your tractor now you might not need all of these pieces depending on what's broken on your tractor so I'm going to talk through them and then you'll be able to decide exactly what you need to my right here is a complete hydraulic cylinder notice that it already has the relief valve on it and then when I flip it over you can see that the piston is inside it has the backers on it this is just ready to go right on to your top lid if you want easy then this is what you would want to purchase because it's all ready to go if you don't want to replace your entire cylinder you can buy a piston individually or you can buy a piston with the gasket set that I have here this has the gasket for your perimeter all little o rings that you need and then these two pieces go on to the piston here so we offer this as a set as you see here or you can upgrade to the gasket set with the piston you can purchase that either way or individually also we offer this top lid gasket by itself as well so you got some different options there let's go back this way you can see it there's a new ramrod here you can purchase your relief valve separately if you desire this is the pivot pin that is so important in the top lid for that draft control these are very affordable and make a big difference in the top lid so if that's the repair you want to tackle be sure to add one to your cart also there's a drain plug gaskets that you can purchase over here we have some external components so you can buy a new plunger in spring as well as the sheet metal piece and the felt for it all those pieces you can purchase individually as well as the new rocker assembly here's the new pins for your three-point arms if you want to replace those or if you damaged I'm taking them out then over here we have a new lever and the quadrant that the lever goes on to with the cork backer for it all of these three pieces are sold individually as well in case you we need one or two of them instead of all three so these parts are all available on my website which is farm tractor repair comm you can purchase these as well as pump parts if you need to replace both parts in your tablet and your pump you can get them all at the same time on my site farm tractor repair comm let's talk about the hydraulic cylinder now up here you have plates on either side this side has a spring behind it so when you take the three bolts off for the plate make sure that you move each one evenly so it pulls off together and then the plate will come off behind there there's a spring and behind that is a bushing that holds it into place this isn't really a replacement part we're just taking it off so that we can clean it once you take that plate off and then the plate on this side you'll be able to pull this control valve out it is in the cylinder just like this let me pull that back so you can see how it goes in there okay then you can pull the control valve out and again you're just taking this out in order to clean it as well make sure if there's not any burrs or grooves on it and then once it's all cleaned up you'll be able to just put it back in the same way I did flip my top lid over and remove those last three bolts that would free up the cylinder to come out so now I can just lift my cylinder off notice that that ramrod was in there too the piston every once in a while these ramrods will be broken so if you discover that yours is broken you can buy a replacement ramrod if you do have this casting broken off then you'll need to get a new top lid from a salvage as that is deal-breaker it's non repairable so hopefully you just discover your ramrod is broken or that it's in good shape like mine I don't have to do a replacement now we're going to talk about the cylinder with the piston inside first let's discuss this relief valve the relief valve is held on kind of like a spark plug it's eleven sixteenths inch wrench just loosen it up there's a little washer behind it make sure that you get both the relief valve and the old washer off and then a new relief valve is here with a new style washer notice how there's a little bit of a bevel or lip to it and that goes in in this fashion you can replace the relief valve if you desire those are sold independently of the top lid kits just to add on if that's something that you feel like you want to replace in the new relief valve is not 11:16 so I'll get the wrench and tighten that up in a minute while I'm right here you can see that there are some small rings up here you can just pick these out and then replace them with some new ones the new o-rings come in your top lid your lift cover repair kit there's a lot of little ol rings in there so you'll just go through your kit and hold them up until you get the right size o ring but there's one two three four five that you need to replace right here so just make sure you find the right size o ring and put them in now I'm going to talk about the piston so the piston is inside your cylinder will you probably want to either replace the piston or at the very least replace the leather in the o-ring that is on your piston if your tractor slowly drifts down on its own that's often a symptom of a problem within your piston so in order to get the old piston out you need to take a blow-off nozzle and apply a little bit of air pressure through this hole and that will cause the piston to come out now when you do this the piston is going to shoot out pretty fast so just make sure that the direction of your piston coming out isn't going to do any damage to another person or something else that's in your shop once the piston is shot out you have the choice to either replace the piston or just replace the leather and the o-ring I'm going to put a whole new piston in which would be the basic top lid repair kit if I remember correctly which comes with the new piston so first you put this leather on you can see that I had my leather ring here in a bowl of hot water just for a minute to help it stretch over these are a little fragile and if you end up breaking your leather or o-ring we can send you one independently of the kit if you need an extra the order that I put these in is important notice that I put my leather on first and then I'm going to put the o-ring and tap this o-rings a little hard to stretch around there too but I'm getting it there we go let me show you this you can see the way that I have my piston leather here then the o-ring and it's going to set into the tractor like this with the ramrod in here and that's how it's going to go into my cylinder if I had my piston removed I would be ready to put my new piston in I would spray some wd-40 around here first set it in place like this and then I just used like the rubber cam handle end of a hammer to drive this piston into the cylinder and then I'm ready to put it back and now if you look at this and you're like oh man that's a lot of steps I want to do something easier or if when you feel inside your cylinder and it's extremely grooved you need to replace your cylinder this is what the replacement cylinder looks like when you buy the replacement cylinder it comes with the piston and the Rings and the relief valve already set to go so if you want an easy option choose this or if your cylinder is damaged then you'll need to choose this and it will save you from buying the new piston separately so you've got two options there just if you want to rebuild the one you have or if you want to go with a complete replacement you can choose whichever route you want I put some heat right on this flange in order for this to come off there are threads inside this yoke piece here let me get this off and I'll show you the threads those are stuck on very rare occasions am I ever able to get that off without heat they're just really a problematic piece next I'm going to take these three bolts off here oftentimes the sheet metal piece will be broken mine's not broken but it is very easy if yours is broken or loose you will definitely want to do some repairs here on this back end just effects all of your linkages and it's really important next this will kind of come off mine came off automatically sometimes they'll be stuck and you'll have to hammer it off but this piece is the part that we want to replace that's where all of most of the problems lie once you have that off you can take off this plate which you'll reuse and then you'll see some remains of an old felt inside there I'm just going to slide that right out and then I have a new felt piece to go in this comes as a complete circle but because of that dowel underneath there I decided to go ahead and cut out a little bit of a notch for the dowel so that it will in there easily for me the match for the dowel is going to be down here at the bottom and that lines up with a new notch that is in the plunger like that that's what I have to have lined up inside here if for some reason your plunger is broken we do offer a new plunger to you it is quite involved if you need to replace it you got to take all these arms off and these linkages it's doable but it's not easy you just it's a lot of work so if your plunger doesn't need to be replaced just reuse it only replace it if you're having trouble I have that held in there just gonna let that rest while I get my support seat spring here ready to go this will just slide over like that first I'm gonna put it through here because it's kind of got a rest in this groove you show you here this comes over and it gets lined up just like that you press it in there it is sheet metal so it's a little bit bendable but I don't want to damage it once I have that held into place I'm gonna get one of my bolts started and it will kind of help pull everything in and together notice on these bolts that I didn't tighten one up all the way and then come back to the others instead I tighten them up a little bit at a time the sheet metal piece is fragile I don't want to damage it once that's tight you're ready to put your spring on I have seen these broken from time to time so if you inspect your spring and notice that it's damaged you can purchase a brand new one and put that on or if yours is in good condition it's definitely a piece that you can reuse the spring just sets on there into place and then you can put your yoke on the end I'm gonna put a little bit of wd-40 on those threads a little first and then I will put this on I'm gonna start it by hand and then I'm gonna use this punch through the hole here to help me turn it you want to tighten this all the way up until it's snug but not overly tight you weren't trying to compress the spring at all you just want it to be snug and tight it's important to not overlook the load valve that is located right here in the top lid of your tractor I am using a fine threaded bolt to go into the valve right here I put some washers or this big socket in there anything to kind of be a spacer I grab onto that valve and as I tighten it it pulls the valve out sometimes I'm able to get the valve completely out and I want to get it out so that I can clean it however this one once I got to the edge it got stuck it made me nervous that I was going to break it so I stopped right here at the edge where I am you take that off so you can see it I'm not gonna proceed further if yours is coming out easier you can take it out completely but if you get to this point and it's coming out a little hard like mine don't wreck your valve here just stop I'm going to tap this back in it feels like I'm probably bottomed out so let me go ahead and take this bolt out of there next I'm going to put this little ball and valve at the end so I'm going to drop this in there oops just lost my spring let me put that back together carefully came out this way because this is what holds the ball right there I'm gonna set that into place make sure that it moves back and forth push it with your finger you want to make sure that it's clean before you put everything back together and then once it's clean you know that it's moving you can go ahead and put this cap back on I have all of my linkages here hooked back up we're just gonna pan so that you can see them in case you need to reference to match this for your own tractor too little o-ring czar right here and it's important to pick them out this is a spot where they will blow out with the gasket here so if you have a leak in your system that is probably why you get new o-rings in the head gasket kit I have all of the rest of my gasket scraped off here I got a little bit left I need to finish up you can use a wood chisel like this some people like to use a razor blade and then I follow with a I call this a wizzy wheel aren't the proper term for it is and finish off to get all that old gasket off make sure you do the same on the top lid once you have that off replace the two o-rings put a new gasket on without gasket sealer and then you're ready to drop your top lid into place one other thing that could be wrong on your tractor is if these lines here are broken they'll blow out it's common in colder climates because sometimes if water gets in the system those lines will expand and freeze but you would have been able to determine that from the inspection hole that we talked about the beginning of the video if you looked in there and you saw oil spraying all over those lines are broken so I'm going to finish cleaning off this gasket I'll put my new gasket and and we'll put the top lid into place if you damage this pin while removing it you can purchase a new one these are really affordable and they'll slide in there also if you need a new rocker assembly for right here you could very easily install and replace that that's just taking out those pins and putting it back in if you need it I have my arms hooked up here I'm gonna connect the top lid to my rocker assembly I'll hold that up in place and I'll Drive my pin through and we'll be all hooked up back here clean oil is important to your success i drained the oil out of my tractor in all three compartments here and then I will refill in all three compartments now in the olden days you would have put 90 weight in your transmission in your rear differentials and hydraulic oil in the middle but the problem with that is that oil does transfer between the three compartments so if you get 90 way into the hydraulic system and it goes into the pump it's too thick for the pump and will damage the seal therefore I recommend a updated oil which is this hydraulic and transmission oil for all three fill compartments here on your tractor that way when when and if the oil transfers you aren't going to have any damage between your transmission your hydraulics and your rear differentials so go ahead and fill up those three places and also when you take off your caps we call this a drain plug gasket but it also fits onto the cover so take the old gasket off put a new gasket on and fill up all of your compartments also when I had my tractor apart I did clean out the center cavity here I use some carb cleaner just to spray it down make sure that it's thoroughly clean before we reassembled I'm going to start the tractor up to show you how the arms work okay here we go gonna lift my lever up and you can see that the arm through find well as they should if I put my lever here they hold in place so I have good draft control although the rest of the way up I don't have any shaking or jerking this is how the arms should operate hopefully at the end of this video you have the confidence to tackle your own hydraulic repair and that your hydraulic arms will work the same way when you are done this video covered only the top lid if you have a problem with the pump I have a separate tutorial which shows you how to rebuild the pump which will cool inside with this video that you may want to watch if you need a little bit of help with your hydraulic system we'd be happy to hop on a phone call with you we offer a tech support service you can schedule the call on my website you pick a time that works for you and one of the texts will call you there is a small fee for that service but a lot of people find that it's beneficial to them to talk to an experienced mechanics through this system the repair that they're doing if you just need a little bit of extra coaching or you have some questions after this video it's important to note that I took my wheel and fender off only so that you can see when you do this repair on your own tractor to leave the wheel and fender on no need to take that off please subscribe to my channel so that you can get a notification every time we release a new video and also when you're ready purchase the parts on my website it's farm tractor repair calm [Music] you

Channel: Dan Gingell and Rachel Gingell

Views: 108,379

Rating: 4.9434257 out of 5

Keywords: tractor, ford, farm, farming, hydraulics, top lid, lift, repair, fix, diy, how to, rachel, dan, gingell, ford tractors, ford hydraulics, 600, 700, 800, 900, powermaster, workmaster, 2000, 4000, ford 600, 640, 850, 860, 871, 960, 971, wont' lift, pivot pin

Id: 3Ig8LBwlOsk

Length: 27min 57sec (1677 seconds)

Published: Tue Mar 03 2020