How to remove a 68RFE Transmission

hey everybody Steve your DIY dude here uh we are going to be pulling out the 68 RF on our 2012 Ram 2500 this old girl's got about 300,000 mil on it and so it is time to do a rebuild on it the the transmission hasn't failed yet but every day I drive in it I'm like is this the day and I don't like that feeling so I'm going to take it out uh put a new torque converter in it uh rebuild the whole transmission put some Billet parts in there and uh get it done for a lot cheaper than what you would have to get it done in a shop so uh stick around and let's do this together so bust out your tools and put away your wallets cuz we're doing it [Music] ourselves so we got uh 2012 Ram the 68 rfu up on uh four jack stands underneath um with an extra little bottle jack just as kind of a safety measure I don't have a I don't have a car lift Jack yet that's one of the future uh tools I'll have in this barn but um so yeah just Jack it up on all sides get it high enough to where you think you can get the transmission out from underneath um I'm going to plan on wheeling it back to the back here and then pulling it out right here so that's going to be my highest point um uh easiest way to get it out so once you got your car up on jack stands feel free to disconnect the negative terminal your battery we are going to be pulling some connectors loose uh and then to get started you got to pull this crossmember off underneath and then you got a uh Drive Line you got to get out if you have the extended if you got the long bed four-wheel drive um you'll have the four bolts I think those are 15 mm bolts on The U Joint yolk at the very B back of the drive shaft you'll have two I think 15 mm bolts at the center and then this pulls straight out of the back of the transfer case for us to get this drive line out it's coming out of the transfer case and then since this is a long bed we have this uh Connecting Point right here so we got to remove this whole bracket and then we got four um bolts down there that take off the drive line we got 415 are they 15 yep 15 mm bolts right here at this U joint uh we got two 15 mm bolts holding up the middle and then it's just going to slide right out of that transfer case so be ready to catch it might be best if you have two people people under here to help out that's it slips right of that transfer case there's a little rubber boot got these two 15 mm bolts holding that middle part and then the four 15 mm bolt at the end comes right out so we're going to go ahead get this bracket under underneath the transfer case off right here it's uh held on by these two bolts right here on this side these two bolts right there on that side um and then also this skid plate underneath has four connecting bolts right here one two and then two more on that side and uh and then this guy is held on by these two bolts right here and so let's go ahead and remove that and get on to the next step we got got um that first crossmember off which was right above below this guy um to remove this guy I would first recommend putting a tie strap underneath your transmission to help support the uh transfer case and the weight of the transmission while you pull this guy off cuz this this cross member um has these uh this little weight bearing plate to help support some of that load of the um so uh Before You Yank this guy just put some extra uh little tie strap around the transmission to give it some uh security I just put it around the frame rails just make sure when you're putting it around the these frame rails you're not pinching any wire looms you're not pinching any of these uh I'm not even sure what these lines are if they're fuel lines or they're just some exhaust Reser lines um so yeah just be careful with that and then once you get uh these four bolts loose you have three more bolts underneath here right here right there and then right here so get those three off and that guy will um pop right down we got this guy off so these are these uh 15 mm nuts that are all going to be right here one two three that are going to be in these three slots uh make sure you uh get a little wire loom uh plug puller and uh kind of looks like ah this guy right here use that you can pull these plugs up out of this uh out of this housing so you don't destroy them you can reuse them and then uh let's work on getting this transfer case off right after we get this crossmember down uh let's going to work on getting this this drive shaft off real quick looks like we got four 15 mm bolts uh let's get those off we'll uh get a tie strap and put it off to the side uh we're just going to keep it uh we're not going to mess with that we're just going to remove it from here it'll slide out of the uh transfer case uh or it'll just it'll come off the transfer case right here and we'll be good to go front drive line I just got a little clove hitch uh tied to the frame rail so when I loose it down I can just kind of hang it off to the side but each one of these bolts is 5/8 and there's four of them and this drive lane freely spins um since the car is jacked off the ground so to prevent it from spinning while you're trying to get these bolts off you can I just threw a uh an extension ratchet in there in the yolk just to act as like kind of a a middle fulcrum and I held it while I was loosening the bolts to get them off so hopefully that tip helps I having a difficult time getting a impact of any type in there when I was uh um rotating this uh drive line around so I just ended up using a 5/8 uh swivel socket or swivel uh ratchet so if you got one of these that's probably the best uh tool for this right here all right this front drive line can be a little bit of a pain to get out so once you get those bolts out I just went ahead and sprayed it with some uh penetrating oil some PB Blaster and uh I let it sit there for a couple hours and then I took a sledgehammer and I beat on the knuckle right here and it freed a lip right here then I rotated at full 180 and I beat on the other side and uh that freed it up so I just recommend getting that PB Blaster so it can kind of uh separate a little bit and uh it came out a lot easier after I did that so just PB blast it sit on it for a little bit and then come back all right after you get that uh Drive Line removed let's go ahead and remove this bracket we got four bolts one two and then three in there and then four right in that hole so get those out and this bracket will come off all right here's the uh transfer case out this is what goes into the transmission um here's the six bolts that you got to get out one two three four five six and uh this top guy right here is the top innermost one and it's it's pretty big pain you have to reach all the way around to get and I had I got this stubby on it and it was pretty much just doing that for a little while until I can get it freed enough to get it all the way out so that was my best bet so six bolts uh hose right here electrical connector another four bolts for those uh for the front drive line and that uh will come out all right once we get this uh this br rck it off under here I think we got five or six 14 mm nuts that we got to get off this uh back of the transmission or the front of the transfer case however you want to look at it and they're right here one two you got one on the side three I think you got two on top four five six and I think you got one on this side so 6 14 mm uh before you do that let's go ahead and get this wire disconnected looks like there's a little safety possible looks like it just pushes in right here and then you just pry it right off so let's go ahead and get that wi Loom off and get those nuts off um just uh be ready for when you do get those last couple nuts off make sure you have this uh transfer case either supported by another pair of hands or a Jack cuz I'm just doing this by myself so that's uh my plan is just putting a TR a Jack underneath it uh unscrew the last couple nuts and then pull it off so just be safe all right after I got the uh transfer case off I'm going to go ahead and drain the transmission we just got these uh 8 mm bolts all along the drain pan all along the pan of the transmission and so just I'm going to start taking off most of these 8 mm on the front uh and then kind of pull it back this way and let it drain out the back a little bit into some buckets it's going to be a little uh messy so kind of be prepared for that all right so we're moving this stuff right up here we got our speed sensor for whatever reason my uh speed sensor connector is not freeing itself this one popped right off just fine this one I got to I'm going to have to get a new connector and reslice that on it's just got 300,000 Mi on it it's for whatever reason there's dirt in there and I've tried to spray it out and clean it but I've just busted the plastic up pretty good trying to get it off so probably just going to buy a new connector for that one I'll work on a little bit more but uh this guy pops straight off here um and then this guy has two say is this uh thir this uh bracket has two 13 mm bolts holding this shift linkage on and that'll pop right off getting this connector off this red tab pulls straight down then you got to pull this guy all the way down and you wiggle it up I had to spray some uh just kind of some PB Blaster a little bit just to get that freed from the plastic and uh these guys are a little bit of pain in the ass but you just got to push this little these two tongs down and then pull it straight out so just push down and pull out all right on this side you got uh your pressure sensor and uh you got a red tab you got to flip it up that way push this button um and I had to spray some lube around it and use a screwdriver from the side to kind of pry it off um pop it off a little bit and then uh we got a couple just a wire loom up here still connecting to the top and then uh this bracket which I might connect when I start lowering it but I'm going to try to get that bracket off if I have uh the ability to and then we got to get these uh Transmissions lines off all right she's out so we just got um all those lines free we got two sensors right here you got your solenoid pack um plugin and then on this other side you've got to get get that dip stick tube free uh look like a little almost a little dirt in there wouldn't have been good uh get your two uh transmission lines free undo this connector right here and then you got one more connector right there and that should be it for this side all right looking from the back of the transmission uh we're getting our wire loom freed up so on this uh passenger side you got this wire loom it's plugged into the top right there uh disconnect that sensor on the bottom right uh then we got a 10 mm you can get a good visual right there keeping that bracket on so I'm going to get that off with the wrench uh and then we'll be off to working on getting the torque converter off all right when you're getting these uh trans lines out there's a little white plastic cover might be a different color on yours but slide that out of the way you're going to see this retainer housing right here and there's this metal clip that goes on there just pop up one of those ends and then pop that clip out and your line will slide out all right we're going to go ahead and remove this inspection plate cover we got three 8 mm bolts up here on the passenger side right up in here if you can it might be too dark um right up in here is where we're going to get the access to the torque converter bolts off so we got I believe six to eight of those guys and uh I think they're 15 mm all right for removing these uh torque converti bolts kind of a pain in the ass uh uh there is a bracket that sits right here that's the bracket right there it's got four I think 15 mm bolts it sits right here take that guy off that's pretty much your only hope to get these bolt out uh and then I used uh ratchet with an extended handle and uh you need an 18 mm deep socket to get in there and so once you got that I was able to break it loose but it takes a little bit of elbow grease so uh prepare for the suck for that guy cuz you got six of them all right so what I've been doing is here's the flywheel in here and I got this little kind of like little bent flathead screwdriver I've just been sticking it in there and moving it from the passenger side towards the driver's side and it's been rotating and uh you should be able to see a bolt there's the bolt right on in there and you got to get that guy out and there should be a you just keep spinning it around there should be eight of them I believe or six um might be six and then once you free it uh this uh torque converter will freely Spin and that's how you know you got them all out extra little tip for the day um I got this extended handle and it's barely enough torque to get that bolt loose so what I did is I got another half in/ in extension I threw a 3/4 socket on it and and I'm connecting both of these guys together like this to give myself an extra long uh bar to pry on once I did that these bolts come out pretty easily and these are what the torque convert bolt looks like just little guys all right so we got all the wire harnesses off the transmission uh we got the torque converter um released from the flex plate and uh we are going to to uh and we got the transmission lines out of the transmission at least they're loose um as we back the transmission off the flex plate we'll make sure those hard lines um don't interfere these hard lines right here they can catch on that bell housing so we got to um slowly move it backwards while we are keeping an eye on that to make sure it's free and clear the bell housing um we've got all our cables off or c cabl we got our shift cable off I couldn't free this connector I'll work on it when the transmission's out um but all our connectors are off on that side this side we have this connector off we have these connectors from the top off and then um there is a connector it's a uh I think it's your dipstick um tube there's a I think a eight 8 or 10 millimeter bolt back there just make sure that's free um and we are going to start lifting this jack up up underneath the I'm going to put a tie strap around it secure it and then we'll start working on these uh uh 9/16 bell housing bolts to free it and uh off the transmission and we will uh see if we can pull her pull her back for these back bolts on the top of the I've got a couple uh extension sets locked together to create pretty much a super long extension and I've been uh using an impact or and a swivel head um to get to these two top ones they're kind of a pain to get to so um you just kind of got to be creative because there's not a lot of hand room to get a wrench in there uh so yeah all right so I'm under here I got super long extension set you can see all the way to the front of the Janny from the back so uh that's what I've been used to get these last two bolts off and uh it's working all right there she is all over Beauty uh sometimes when you uh don't adequately lift your truck high enough to get the transmission out on the jack stand you got to figure out a little body drag so here she is ready for the knife oh Lord be with me got our 68 RF on the table and we are ready for surgery for this this rebuild we're going to be throwing in a revmax valve body the foundation kit so it's a build it-yourself kit as well as the transgo re kit for the SSV switch uh just got a couple uh assembly Goo uh for the reinstall for bearings and putting everything together I've got a REV Max Billet flex plate so we'll be replacing that uh new speed sensors new pressure sensor uh Billet input shaft uh we going to be putting a REV Max pump uh body on there I just it do I was like do I really need it and I was like gosh it looks so good so I had to all right um even though you see it now you'll never see it again so it's kind of stupid but it's all right uh new Sonic's bearings kit this is the 68 RF sbk c18 um this is going to be the bypasses for 2012 um to get rid of the uh inline uh pretty much thermostat that the transmission has so it never gets locked up um here's a transmission oil filter adapter so instead of the plastic insert we're going to put a metal one on uh we got a pump body um plate to replace and then uh we're going to do a REV Max uh deep pan so that is um those components from rev Max pretty much and then I went from a a rebuild kit online um it's got OEM Parts it has uh Borg Warner clutches um filter pump cover piston seals and uh yeah so it should have pretty much in a bearing kit or a bushing kit sorry so we'll be replacing all the bushings so that is going to be a pretty good rebuild kit for around 5,500 bucks and uh and that includes the tools which I bought which are uh um a bushing install kit and a bushing remover kit and then as well as come some specialty tools like picks and some other things to get the gaskets and O-rings out of this guy

Channel: DIY Dude

Views: 2,753

Keywords: 68 RFE, 4th gen ram tranmission removal, 2012 ram 2500 transmission removal, transmission removal, How to remove 68rfe, 68RFE removal

Id: 1g9gTl0unY0

Length: 25min 42sec (1542 seconds)

Published: Sat Dec 30 2023