How To Rebuild A Car Engine (4B11T)

what is up guys and welcome back to the YouTube channel what we're gonna be doing today is doing a full motor assembly from completely torn down block bear block right here with the crank out with everything out to a full complete ready to run for B 11 P for my evo 10 this is gonna be like a six or seven Honorable I'm gonna say a 740 hour capable motor so everything that we are installing this motor out from reco wise I will link down below so we're doing the ATL race bearings for the crank and main the FP head studs ARP rod bolts ARP main bolts me and the i-beam rods CP Pistons to block we are leaving stock it is board 20 over I believe one other thing you're gonna need is the evo 10 master gasket kit so it comes with everything it comes with the head gasket ball cover gasket this rear main seal this is gonna be a very very long video I'm gonna cram everything into one video from how it is now to a full recha run motor so guys sit back and enjoy the video I'm gonna try to give you as many tips and little tricks here and there as possible so if you've never built the 411 before or if you just want to sit back and see how a motor is assembled enjoy the video let's get started the first thing you want to do as you can see we have a very very clean work area I feel like that's one thing that a lot of people kind of skip out on when building a motor especially at home like I do I'm just sitting here in my shop so try to get a table throw some shop towels down on the table get everything clean other than that you're gonna want shop towels I have two rolls of these you're gonna break cleaner to clean all the parts before assembly we have the three bonded 12-15 sealant right here that we're gonna be using in a few different areas on this motor a bunch of other towels or shop right so if you throw away what else obviously all the parts to install so we got the cradle here bearings block crank oil pump rods Pistons as far as measuring stuff goes before we throw the motor together what we need to measure is the rod bearing clearance the the main bearing clearance on that I will be using plastic I know that's kind of frowned upon in the community but that is what I have to work with so that's what we're using I don't have all the specialty tools to properly measure everything out so we're gonna be using pasta gauge we need to check the piston to walk Lance we need to set the ring end gap and I believe other than that we should be ready to assemble we are going to be doing all that stuff first so checking all the bearing clearances Pistor the wall clearance and setting to meet end gap got all that kind of boring stuff out of the way and then we can start with something motor one more thing you guys will need I almost forgot is we have this Weis go eighty six point five millimeter ring compressor let's now you got the Pistons and rings down into this owner wall so you put the piston in here and it slowly tapers down to eighty six point five millimeter which will allow the Rings to compress all the way and get the piston with the Rings down into the floater wall so pick one of these up whatever size you need this is eighty six point five stock is 86 mil so if you're doing like drop-ins or something you'll need to 86 mil you're gonna need a wide variety of tools the only specialty tools you will need is a torque wrench I have this foot pound torque wrench it goes up to 144 pounds and then the smaller inch pound torque wrench which goes up to 235 inch pounds so I'll be using these two and other than that it's gonna be like regular tools that anyone's gonna have in their shop one thing I want to keep clear with you is the key component to building like a very long lasting motor is making sure everything is clean to start with starts everything being clean so I dropped this block crank and rods off where we are reusing my older rods which are the i-beams mainly I beams I dropped all that off at the machine shop so the crank is polish we got a fresh bore and hone on the block along with the head service thing resurfaced then obviously the rods are all polished rods are good to go there what went wrong with my old motor was a really bad date nation on cylinder three so it took out that piston and you block as well so this is a new block or a used use me block alright let's start with checking the main bearing clearances so I'm going to flip this around so one is on this side we shouldn't have to do anything different here we're just checking them to make sure the machine shop did their job right currently installed on here are the ARP 2000 main bolts so we're gonna pull these off every single one of these caps is labeled but when I pull them off I'm just gonna keep them in order how they came off so one through five pull them out okay next step is I'm going to clean up all this right here just give the whole block a good cleaning clean the clean the bore clean the stone walls clean where the bearings are gonna sit clean the threads with brake cleaner and a q-tip just go through the whole block make sure it's all perfect and good to go you guys see why we have to go through the bot block and clean it it's not the machinist job to clean all the holes their job is to resurface the gasket area and do all the the machining work look how much metal came out of these head bolt holes that's why we clean everything up I'm pretty confident that the block is a hunter percent clean so I'm gonna move on to cleaning up this crankshaft real quick there are oil ports or galleys we're every single baiting right so make sure you get all this cleaned out as well lastly I'm gonna do is clean up these cranked cops make sure you get all the bolts cleaned up as well okay so next up we are going to grab our pasta gauge this is the green one it's the smallest one so it goes from point zero zero one to point zero zero three inches which is perfect just break a little piece off and set it right on top now very very gently take your crank cap and we're gonna set it over the Acosta gage making sure the pasta gauge doesn't fall off at all all the caps are on now we got to get the main bolts in I would highly recommend throwing me a bit of bolt lube on here so it's made by Manley I'm pretty sure it's probably made by somebody else but it came with a mailing rods so show a touch on each bolt you don't need too much just a little bit of bolt loop on each one after we have the plus gauge in here be sure not to turn the crank at all or else it's gonna mess up your readings on faust gauge there is a Torx week sequence when torquing down these mains it goes one two three four five six seven eight nine ten all the inners and then do the same thing with the outers we're gonna start off by working the inside ones 227 foot-pounds now we're gonna switch over to the outer ones and those are gonna go to 80 inch pounds so I'm covering my inch torque wrench make sure you follow the OEM torque sequence now we're going to go back to the inner ones the 10mm inner ones and those are going to go to 70 a final torque of 70 foot pounds and then the outer ones are going to go to a final torque spec of 32 foot-pounds all right everything is torqued down now we can take off a noose and every single bolt in that same exact sequence and then pull the crank caps off and measure the plastic age based off of this little gauged is on the positive or the plastic gauge package now we're going to take our little gauge right here and see what these are measuring at so a little piece off this is all other machine shop guys you don't necessarily have to check this but you might as well you might as well double check into the machine shops work say if it was off you ought to get oversized bearings and then bring it back to the machine shop and have the machine down the crank but we're all good to go we need to get all the plastic edge off of the bearings and the crank so I'll be using a little bit of brake cleaner and some lint free towels get them all cleaned up now we're gonna have to repeat the same exact process with the rods as well the rods that we're shooting for point zero zero one five two point zero two zero I believe point zero zero one five two point zero two zero same exact process the rod bolts go to you're supposed to measure the rod bolts with a stretch gauge but I don't have a stretch gauge so a PR recommends some torquing them down to thirty foot pounds once again utilizing this bolt lubricant I'm gonna get this cleaned up and then we can move on with the rods remember every single rod cap you pull off has to go back on that same exact rod they are machined together do not mix them up I'm going to throw using the vise real quick and bust them loose because they are pretty tight when you are installing these rods and caps together bearing tang that little the tang is a little piece of bearing that sticks into the cap I guess is the best way to explain it you have to match up so Tang and Tang on the rod to come together get both match up and then those are going to face toward me when the flywheel side is over here I probably doesn't really matter on this motor I know in Subarus it does Evo's I don't think it matters but that's how I'm gonna do because it's not chemo [Music] all right so all the band clearances are checked we're all good to go there the next thing we're gonna do is check the piston to wall clearance so we're gonna grab this little t gage once again this is not the most 10% accurate way but it is the tools that have so some tools I'm going to use and we're gonna put it down in there this is measuring at 3.40 four five now on the piston when you're measuring the piston you want to go half inch up from the bottom of the skirt so we're gonna measure that that's right at three point four zero zero zero zero zero that is a little bit looser than it should be the CP spec calls for three and half thousand seven inch that is for not thousands of an inch but one thousandth of an inch is pretty miniscule they're gonna feel pretty big loose when you get them in there these are forced Pistons so the difference between fortune cast like piston to wall clearance wise forced are gonna be much solution because they expand a lot more than cast Pistons do it as a cast piston it'd be like maybe mm of an inch these are four and a half thousand of an inch so it's like double the clearance I wish they were a tiny bit tighter so there might there may be some very small piston slop when we go to run this thing like when the motor scold where it warms up it'll be fine in all honesty it's much better to have a loose fist and then it is the tight person if it's a loose you're gonna get some piston slop when it's cold and that's it if it was tight though when it's gonna sound fine when it starts when it's cold but as soon as it warms up and you're building high horsepower the Pistons getting expand I'm gonna get super hot and seize up so not much else we can do I'm gonna run these Pistons how they are I can't board this block again and get more Pistons because it would be at 87 millimeter and I'm not cool with running this Evo motor out you do seven mil eight is six-and-a-half is like me max I would go so we're gonna run these Pistons I already measured all of them they are all at about 4.5 thousands of an inch so next thing to do is move on to the piston ring and gap they have this spec sheet here this ring and gap char Street high-performance you are gonna need one of these piston ring and got filers I will link this down below if you guys want to pick one up you can use the file if you're really good at using a file but I prefer just to use this ring and get filer they're pretty cheap so how you get the ring end gap you're gonna want to open your rings once again we're only doing the first and second ring oil rings we're gonna leave how they are you don't need a file is done at all so how you get the ring end guys you're gonna pull your rings out the top ring is the silver ring the second ring is the black ring the end the marking goes up so when it's on the piston that there's an end stamped on there there might be a dot there might be something else it always faces up so how you get a ring down in the cylinder wall properly you're gonna compress it a little bit get it down in the bore flip a sideways and then grab your piston flip it upside down and push the ring down into the cylinder wall like so so the top rings currently at point zero one two and we want that to be point zero one eight so we got a bit to file on it well let's get to work guys so until 8.01 a feeler gauge is tight in between there we will keep filing and you have to make sure you're filing it square so what do you push it together in the and do your ends meet you gotta make sure both the top and bottom are touching at the same time all right ring number one is done point zero one eight now we're gonna grab it ring number two the second ring and this is gonna go to point zero two one honestly it may already be at point zero two one we may be in luck close so that is how you go about doing the piston ring end gaps whatever cylinder you got them to make sure you put it back in the box and label or keep them with piston number one and cylinder number one let me go bust out the rest the other three and then we can move on to actually assembling the short block this is definitely the most time-consuming process once we get everything set though it's a breeze to get this thing together ring end gaps are all set good to go there next thing to do is start assembling so the first thing we are going to do is clean up the block a little bit and get the crank in this is where stuff kind of starts getting fun I really do enjoy assembling motors so let's get after gonna grab some brake cleaner wipe everything down with one more time so this is where assembly lube starts coming in handy you're gonna need assembly lube on all the bearing surfaces the wrist pins pretty much everything that we're throwing together except for the cylinder walls we're not gonna be using assembly lube to put the Pistons into the cylinder walls I'll show you guys what we'll be doing there so I like to use red line assembly loop it's always been really nice stuff simply just put your bearings in get them seated all the way make sure they're nice and clean before you get them installed now we're gonna grab a bit of assembly Lube throw on the bearings I'll link some of the stuff down below if you guys want to get some for your own motor builds I really do like the redline products there's some of that on there now we're gonna grab our crank wipe it down one more time and get it installed into the block alright one more thing to do before we get everything together guys and that is to put these thrust bearings in so these go right in the center on the center hole and they just slip right and just like that and these just hold the crank from shifting side to side you can throw a little bit of assembly Lube on them to kind of hold them in place until you get the crank in I kind of make them stick to the to the block all right so let's guy together we already have the assembly loop on those bearings and on the crank now I can get all the crank caps on and we'll be on our way make sure things lubed up with the assembly Lube you don't want to run this thing dry it all when you're first starting it up I'm going to throw a tiny bit more of this bolt lube on here just to make sure we get the proper torque spec all right 27 foot-pounds savers the four guys same exact torque spec as when we were checking your clearances 27 foot pounds on the energy now we're going to move to the outer switch go to 80 inch pounds not 80 foot pounds guys 80 inch pounds now we're gonna go back to the inners which is the final torque of 70 foot-pounds back to the outers with final torque of 32 foot pounds which isn't all that much jump right to the inners all right I'm gonna run through and double check everything make sure it's all tight after I check every single bolt I'm gonna put a mark of yellow paint on it just to make sure I hit them all next thing we are going to move on to is getting the Pistons onto the rods and then the rods and pistons into the block so what we're gonna do first is gonna be Pistons onto the rods all right let's get this block kind of out of the way so the Pistons are not marked which way they go they'll reliefs on the piston the the intake ones are bigger so it's gonna sit in the cylinder like so so the develop bigger of all the bigger valve relief so we're gonna face toward me and then as far as the rod goes it probably doesn't matter like they always like I've said before but bearing tanks are gonna go toward the back of the motor so bearing tanks sort of the back bigger belfry Leafs toward the front it's gonna sit in there like that then we're gonna get the Rings on drop the piston down into the block alright so right here we have a rod our piston rings circlips and wrists in first thing we are going to do is get one circlip into the piston alright we got the one stair clip in on the one side now let's pull out this wrist pin one thing I'm going to do right now is pull off the rod cap they're both marked right here as you can see four and four so we know that goes to piston four pull that guy off alright what we're gonna do drop some assembly Lube Lube up this bearing inside the rod okay and then also lube up the wrist pin then we can start sliding this wrist pin through the piston intake valve reliefs are gonna go through the front and the Tang on the bearings even go through the back to make sure those are opposite slide that all the way through then we can grab brother's shirt clip get in the piston all right now it is time to move on to the piston rings so what we're gonna do Grover piston rings pull them out of the box first ring that goes on is this wavy ring this is called the oil expander ring the end gap of the oil expander ring is gonna sit either here or here I'm I'm gonna set it right here so right at the exhaust valve relief spread apart throw it on just like that pretty easy to do and then we have two of the thin oil rings these ones here are called the oil scraper rings and they're gonna go one on each side so one above and one below the oil expander ring the bottom end gap is gonna sit right there and the top and gap is gonna sit on that port okay now grab our second compression ring this end gap is gonna set right here make sure the end is up the second compression ring is the black one the iron ring so we can get that on first and then we can get the top one on it's good to go top-1 same concept the n facing toward the top of the motor this ring end gap is gonna sit right there alright we are ready to install this as you can see we already have the other three three Pistons and rods in there what we're gonna do on this fourth hole is clean it up with a bit of brake cleaner make sure it's all nice and clean and then grab our ring compressor put a little bit wd-40 on there we already using wd-40 to Lubas owner walls we don't want to use assembly lube because it's a little too thick wd-40 allows their rings to break it makes it nice and fast so just grab the piston drop it down through the compressor get all the Rings compressed drop it into the cylinder wall so that's where we are now now you can just top it in there make sure the ring compressors all the way against the block stop it just like that we are done now we can take our block flip it over and we can get the rod caps on and the girdle on or the cradle oil pump and the oil pan so you already know the first thing we're gonna do is put some assembly Lube on the crank where the rod cops are gonna go or the rod sit all right can grab event assembly Lube and we're gonna do cylinder 1 and cylinder 4 right now get the rod caps on make sure bearing tang on here it goes to bring Tang on the rod as well we're gonna start off by torquing these down to 44 inch pounds and then we're gonna go to 15 foot-pounds and then the final torque spec up 30 foot pounds on these ARP mm all right same thing as before I'm gonna go double-check all a bolts and as I checked them off I am going to throw a little marking on them with the yellow paint pen okay most likely the hardest part of the motor assembly is finished next up is the engine cradle so what we're gonna do clean off this gasket surface with some brake cleaner once again got a nice and clean and then apply our three bond 1215 sealant to that gasket surface all right we got it all cleaned up let's set up on the motor and then it can grab our bolts for it and get them installed so there are total of six of those bolts and we're gonna start with this one here so it's number one two three four five six and these all go to 19 foot-pounds we're actually not working the bolts down yet I'm gonna hand tighten them and we have to the sealant setup for about thirty minutes before we can actually torque these bolts down so just get them snugged up with your hand and step away and let it sit for about thirty minutes the 30 minutes is up let's go ahead and torque these things down 19 foot-pounds follow the torque sequence Mitsubishi provided next up is the AFV head bolt installation or the head studs so we are going to be running the ARP 2000s first thing we want to do is go through and reclaim all of the holes where the head studs go I'm gonna flip the motor over squirt some brake cleaner and the eight holes blowouts compressed air go through it one more time and make sure everything's good to go now all of these studs here just go in by hand tight you know there's no torque spec on them so on the garage bike hanging impact here and just rub them all the way down and just get them hand tight got to make sure all those threads are clean I went through and cleaned all the threads on the stud and in the block as well if you notice any binding when you're putting these into the block make sure you pull a sled out and clean up whatever the stud is hanging on before we throw the cat on we do have this oil control valve filter ocv filter assim go in this hole right here this is the timing side I'm gonna square this down with brake cleaner blow it out compressed air and get it installed it is not time to clean up the gasket service where the head goes so you already know brick cleaner lint-free towel clean it down before we throw the head gasket on on the timing cover side over here there's these two little tabs that stick out we're gonna be throwing some of the three bond 12-15 on the bottom side of the head gasket and on the top side so right on these two little tabs you guys will see make sure you get some sealant on there you don't want any leaks all right that's all cleaned up ready to go don't forget the little bit of sealant that goes here now I can grab our head gasket I am using all om Mitsubishi gaskets and seals on this build so grab your gasket and throw it on the block there's only one way the gas state can go so don't worry about getting it on backwards this hole here and this hole here have to go over the dowels now we're gonna grab a little bit more sealant and throw it on these areas again on the top side now we have to prepare the cylinder head so throwing down some new paper towel here we're gonna pull the cams off set them on this towel with the cam caps on top because every cam cap has to go back in the same exact location they are numbered I 1 I 2 I 3 I 4 for intake and then II 1 through 4 for exhaust so just in case you don't get them back on in the same place look at the numbering and make sure they are line bored and honed torqued down to the head so you got to get these back on in the same location or your cams not gonna spin I'm gonna go through clean up the head with brake cleaner and some towels and then we can get it installed so before we put the head on to the motor there are two washers for the air pea studs we need to install there the two washers that go on this timing side so just simply grab the washers throw them on the head I won't be using a little bit of this assembler the fastener loop just to make sure I can get Stork down to the proper spec all right head is ready to go on the motor [Music] make sure it seats down all the way with no gaps anywhere all right we are good to go I'm gonna throw the rest of the washers on there and then get the nuts on there with the hardware lube as well and then we can get to torquing down this head now on these two studs right here on the timing cover side you will need to use a ground down socket to get inside the head I'm sure they sell another socket that will fit but I just ground one down here and it works perfect I'm gonna run through snug all these up it was like no torque at all and then we can get to torquing down this head alright the torque sequence is as follows he goes one two three four five six seven eight nine ten and we're gonna do that exact sequence 234 pounds and then repeat it 260 foot-pounds and then repeat it again to the final torque spec of ninety foot-pounds head of spoil a torque it is time to move on to the cams so I got a bit of assembly loop on the cam journals and the camp habits as well there is this bearing right here for the exhaust cam that sits on the timing side little thrust bearing make sure you get that in I'm gonna clean up these cams in the cam caps and we can get them installed [Music] there also is a thrust bearing on the top of the scamp cap as well in the same exact location that the lower one is in I'm gonna select all these down and then you can get to torquing them to the proper spec okay the torque spec on the cam cops we're gonna start with the smaller ones first they go to one hundred and six inch pounds and we start we start with one two three four five six seven eight to 106 inch pounds now we move on to this end cap here which goes to 22 foot pounds and it goes one two three four from here we can either bolt on the oil pan or flip the motor over do the timing components into the ten cover first and then the oil pan I'm gonna go the timing cover first route because the oil pan actually bolts on to the timing cover so it makes sense for us to do the timing cover first so I'll put this motor over and we can get started on the timing components the first thing we are going to do is get the two lines on the cam gears they have to line up with the head and they're also gonna be facing exactly they're gonna be facing each other as well I'm gonna grab a 40 millimeter socket and just turn the cams over until these lines are lined up with this top edge right here [Music] the next thing me to do is get the motor at top dead center so I'm going to grab the timing cover set the time and cover on and then grab the crank pulley put the crank pulley on and get the motor atop the center so how we know it's at top is done top that Center there's this line right here on the pulley that is gonna go to the key on the 10 cover all right this thing is ready to be timed before we throw on the timing chain we do need to get on the oil pump in the oil pump chain as well so I'm gonna go ahead do that right now and then we can get on behind the chain so there are three bolts holding the oil pump on these all go to 20 foot pounds so on this timing chain there are a bunch of gold links or darker colored links I actually painted them yellow so you guys can see them easier but this one over here is getting to line up with the dot on the cam there'll be four links right in the center this one's gonna run over will line up with a dot on this cam you may have to spin the cam back just a tiny bit to get it on and then you can put it back in place then it's gonna run it all the way down and there will be a dot on the crank gear as well that everything lines up with so when it's all said and done you'll have a gold link lined up cam a gold link line up cam four gold links right in the center these two lines on the cam gears are facing each other and line up with the head and then one gold link done here lined up with a dot on the crank gear it's all that looks good we can go ahead and get on the two timing chain guides done here and you also have some oil pump guides we gotta get on [Music] we can also set on the tensioner tighten it down a little bit and then we have to go through and make sure the timing chain did not slip at all because it tends to slip before you pull this collar pin out so this is how everything should look guys start off by making sure these two cam gears are facing each other and line up with the head these lines right here and then yellow dot right there goes the dot on the cam gear for right in the center yellow dot goes to cam gear they're gonna run all the way down yellow dot down here goes to the crank gear right there but to make sure the motors that top that Center we had to throw on the timing cover I thought that looks good god this pin on your tensioner pull the pin out it'll tighten up the chain make sure nothing slipped at all so this here is a 2008 motor my cars in oh wait and we are doing a 2015 block on it so the Oh a two 10s have this oil squirted right here that squirts down onto the crank gear that's for the timing chain but in 2011 they did away with out so guys we are not going to be using this little oil scorer right here the next thing to do before we put on the timing cover is to go through and torque down all of those bolts they all go to 17 inch pounds we are now ready for the timing cover on to the motor so I'm gonna go through wipe down all the gasket services on the timing cover in on the motor with some brake cleaner to get it all dried up and we will be applying the three ball 12:15 to this timing cover so we will be applying the three bond to this whole gasket surface here and this this in that area as well so don't miss those three sections right in the center [Music] [Music] so we're just gonna get all of these bolts on here hand tight this one right in the center guys that goes here it has the crush washer on that so don't forget that little washer you may have a little relief if you do so just not no up aza is drying we can get the valve cover prep and the new seal on the valve cover get the valve cover on the motor as well just gonna grab the seal get the seal on the valve cover before we get the valve cover on we're gonna put a dab of sealant where the time cover meets the head so right here in right here and we do also need to throw on this little guide as well it's gonna sit just like this and this goes to 17-inch pounds all right valve cover is ready to go on actually do get that steel on where the time chain cover meets the head definitely gonna need that [Music] I'm just going to Snug all these down there is a torque sequence for the valve cover as well but for now I'm gonna Snug them down and then I'll run through and broke them down to the proper torque spec with the sequence so the bolts go to 27 inch pounds and then we're gonna retorque them down to 49 inch pounds [Music] well we are still up here I'm going to swap how these spark plugs for a new set and then get the coil packs on as well and then you can flip the motor over throw the oil pan on and then wait for the sealant on the timing cover to dry and the oil pan to dry and then we can torque everything down and we already done with this motor build the plugs we are using on this motor or NGK IL kr8 e6 and they're gapped they come pre got already but I checked it I double check the gap and they're all at point zero to zero and that's exactly what they should be all right guys it is time to throw on the oil pan pretty much the very last thing to do on this motor build so what I'm going to do clean up the surface on here in the oil pan as well apply these sealant to the oil pan and then we get the pan on the car on the motor and get all the bolts in get a proton on the proper torque sequence actually I don't know if there's a torque sequence on the pan but yeah this is pretty let's get her done [Music] so all these smaller ones the ones of the ten millimeter head go to 89 inch pounds and then the bigger ones with the 12 millimeter head go to 22 foot pounds [Music] all right my friends that is a wrap that is a full Mitsubishi Evo 10 4 B 11 T long block built from absolutely nothing to a complete ready to run motor if you guys enjoyed the video make sure you go down below smash that thumbs up button if you have any questions whatsoever drop a comment in the comment section below I'll try to link everything I used on this build it down in the description box so the sealant I used the rods Pistons I'll link the gasket kit the timing chain everything I use on this motor I'll try to link it down in the description box below for you guys hope you enjoyed it I know it's a super super long video definitely long video on my channel if you made to the end mad props to you guys because I know this video is definitely to be over an hour long thank you so much for watching this motor should be in the car soon so stay tuned for that video and hopefully this thing runs like it should peace out guys thank you for watching once again I'll see you in the next video wouldn't get us again [Music]

Channel: Devin Niemela

Views: 526,729

Rating: 4.915154 out of 5

Keywords: Devin, Niemela, Dvniemela, Devin Niemela, How To Rebuild A Car Engine, Car Engine Rebuild, Car Motor Rebuild, Engine Rebuild, Motor Rebuild, 4B11T, Evo X Motor, Evo Motor, Evo Engine, Evo X Engine, How To Fix Car Motor, How To Fix Car Engine, Rebuilding Car Motor, Rebuilding Car Engine, 4B11T Build, TJ Hunt, Tanner Fox, Dustin Williams, Evan Shanks, Illiminiate, Adam LZ

Id: muYngxZPnaE

Length: 39min 47sec (2387 seconds)

Published: Mon Apr 29 2019