How To Polish Stainlees Steel Trim On A Car

howdy folks troy with v-twins the v8s coming  back on to show you how to polish stainless steel   that you have repaired let's get at it all right folks so you spent some time you watch  my other video which i'll put a link to up above   and uh you spent the time and you did my technique  where you pick file and hammer and dolly your   stainless steel and you sand it a bunch of times  and you get it down to something that looks sort   of like what i have here which is kind of like  it almost look like looks like brushed stainless   steel so you got it to that point now you wanted  to get it shined up so it looks like chrome so   when you put it on your car it looks like brand  new so that's what we're going to work on today   so what i have in front of me is a bunch of the  tools that you'll need along with the buffer   and what we'll do is we'll get a close-up in  i'll show you the different compounds and also   the different buffing pads the cleaning  tools whatever it is that you'll need   to get this job done so let's go basically  need some buffing wheels a way to clean it   and some polishing compounds to polish  your stainless steel so much like when you   buff your paint like i showed you in my other  videos there is a series of steps which is   known as scratch refinement so you start off kind  of coarse and you move your way on down the line   and each progression is a little bit finer until  your final polishing it gives you that brilliant   shine and it's very smooth and very shiny because  the scratches are so tiny you can barely see them   so what we're going to start out with  is the coarsest thing so the coarsest   disc that you'll have is um what they call sizzle  it kind of looks like if you if you looked at it   it looks an awful lot like an old um an old style  rope it's like a it's like a heavy material it's   kind of coarse we use the sissel wheel first to  get the heavy scratches out then we go to this   little bit softer wheel but it's sewn pretty  hard and it bridges the gap between the sizzle   and the uh the this soft fluffy rouge wheel so  the next one is this softer wheel here um what   i do if you notice is i mark them so i've got an  ss on my sissel that stands for stainless steel   i've got light gray written on here knowing that  i've used this with my light gray polish which is   my intermediate step and then you have this really  soft um it's like a bunch of layers of cloth stuck   together that's kind of wanky and this is for  your fine polishing and you notice i have it mount   have it marked that says white rouge because  that's what i'm going to use on there the thing   with your pads is once you use them for a certain  polish you should continue to just use that pad   for that polish because these pads really hang on  to that material so you'll see once we get into   it we apply some of the compound to the wheel then  we use it then we apply some more and continually   and it lasts a long time this doesn't work  like the compound whereas we put the material   onto the surface and then do it we actually  put the materials onto these pads so there's   our pads we have this this uh cleaning tool which  basically kind of looks like a wooden handle with   a cleat on it and what this is is basically just  that it's got a bunch of teeth on it when we run   run it run the buffer we run these this two  thing across these pads and it cleans out   all the black gunk hardened compound whatever  is in there cleans it out fluffs the pad up   much like the spur does in our other video  on um i'll post a link for that on how to   uh sand and polish your paint we use a spur tool  to clean a wool pad and uh this is in essence   the same type of cleaning process okay so i've  arranged the pads in the succession that we're   going to use them so we have our sizzle stainless  steel our sissil pad is for our heavy cut   we use this black compound i've got this compound  that i've gotten from the folks at eastwood   they have a full line of it i'll put some links  down below for that then we go to the light gray   which is your intermediate i get this stuff here  in bulk it comes in this giant um tube like it's   very similar to the eastwood product it's just  larger i get it from the folks at tp tools and   this is your intermediate we use this with our  intermediate pad and then we have what they call   white rouge and that is what we use with our  really soft pad so what we'll do next is we'll   get the pads set up on the on the buffer you'll  notice the buffers two sides so we can set it   up with two pads we'll set it up with sizzle and  light gray we'll do those two and then we'll we'll   set it up again for the light rouge and we'll put  a nice polishing on it okay so this is the buffer   i use i got it from the folks at eastwood you can  get these at a lot of different places um it's a   one horsepower this is a pretty good size piece  i've also mounted it on this piece of plywood   they have it so you could bolt it to the floor i  don't use it enough to leave it in one place so i   use this big piece of wood that you'll see here  and what that does is it makes it so that i can   just take this pick this up and move it wherever  i want but yet it's still nice and um stable   when i use it so you're going to see a couple  of things on this buffer you're going to see   low zero and high i do my buffing on low i don't  see any real need to have this thing spinning   at crazy speeds okay on here you'll actually show  it shows you uh what steps for what compounds   things of that nature which is kind of nice  um i don't see where it shows you to use a   high speed but you'll notice that you'll have  your rotations pointed this way this thing's   going to turn in this direction therefore  what we're going to do is as this is spinning   we're going to be using this bottom edge and  never getting above this center line here okay   so now that i've shown you the the uh the buffing  machine i'll make sure i post a link in the bottom   okay so what we're going to do is we're going  to put our sizzle wheel on first and what we   do have to notice is which way our pad has been  worn in and um basically all of my fibers are   going this way so i know that this thing has  been turning like this this buffer will turn   so that the bottom edge is going away from you  you're going to want to use that bottom edge   i'll show you in a moment so we're going to  mount the sizzle wheel on this side over here and then we're going to mount the  intermediate on the opposite side we'll get this all on here we'll tighten it up i'll get my light gray   one on here so i know i'm going  in the right direction and uh you'll notice that uh either side  of this is one is right hand thread   one is a left hand thread just  to be aware when you do this okay this needs to be tight so it doesn't  come off but it doesn't need to be   crazy ass tight if you just snug it up with  a pair of channel locks you're good to go   so now i've got my buffer on here i'm all set  my wheels are on here i'm all set next thing you   will do is we'll get this fired up and we'll um  we'll clean these pads and we'll get ready to do   some polishing all right before we get into this  thing let's just talk a couple a little bit about   some safety so you're gonna want a pair of gloves  you're gonna want some safety glasses for obvious   reasons some people may want to wear a dust mask  that's going to be your choice i'm not going to   get into the whole osha thing or whatever it's  it's whatever your preference is alrighty so here   we are we're ready to go just going to throw these  gloves on real quick and put on my safety glasses   and we're going to go ahead and get this going  now one of the things about this wheel is   more the sizzle wheel than anything else it  will uh shed and throw uh a clump of material   every once in a while that's why we have the  glass the glasses so we're gonna turn this on   now we have this going we've got our tool and  one of the things we have to be conscious of   is this thing is turning this way it's much  like the whole buffer thing you have to be aware   of which way things are turning so you do not  get hurt okay if i were to touch the top of this   everything is being thrown towards me so i would  not want to put anything on top of it or anything   above say this center line i want to work  at if you were looking at the end of this   like a clock face i would want to work in the  say eight o'clock to six o'clock position so i   want to work that little arc in the clock so in  other words i want to work eight o'clock to six   o'clock i want to work on that very bottom  because what it's going to do is if i catch   anything or anything goes bad it's going to throw  this item away from me not towards me it's gonna   spit it right out of my hands and trust me stuff  like this happens especially if you're gonna   if you're trying to polish something small be  very very careful and make sure you're wearing   the proper safety equipment and make sure you're  on the proper area so i'm just going to take this   tool and i am going to touch the buffing wheel to  it in that six to eight o'clock position to clean   this pad out now i don't have to wrench on this  very hard i just wanna go on it lightly and boom   now i fluffed it up it's ready to go i'm gonna go  over here i'm gonna do the same to this other side   and what this does is it just cleans and fluffs  up this pad takes all the matting out of it   and makes it so you're you're dealing with  some nice fluffy material okay so now we've   got this all set we're going to start with the  sizzle so we're going to start with our heaviest   cutting material which is this black so now  what we're going to do is we are going to run   this material on the buffing  pad in that sweet spot that six to eight o'clock position now what i have now is i have material on this  pad once i have material on the pad i can start   doing my buffing so i'm going to grab my molding  and i am going to work from one edge and off so   in other words i am going to just let it run on  this edge and i'm going to move it around and   it's going to start to polish my material now  i don't need to put a lot of pressure on this   and i want to be very careful that i  do not catch any of the edges because   this thing will grab it and like i said  it will spit it right out of your hands see now as i start to run this  on here i will start to see   this piece starting to polish up and shine now don't get me wrong this is  hence can tend to be a long process   so you gotta you gotta be patient   my suggestion is much like when we're doing the uh  the paint work the buffing on the paint i do small   areas recommend that all the time i recommend  the same thing with polishing of the metal oh now i can start to see this and i  can see that i'm polishing up nicely   and i will just kind of continue going i mean  there's not really a lot that i can tell you   about this what i will do is i'll put my  other camera on up close so you can watch   this you can watch this actual technique as  it happens and that's what i'll be doing next you want to make sure you're  going off the edge off of the edge you'll notice that i put my hand underneath  the bottom of this it kind of helps   to guide it so that you don't have your molding pop off to one side  or the other but you can see it now   it's starting to it's starting to develop a shine if you'll notice my wheel is turning this way so  i will kind of face my molding that way so that   i'm not going to catch an edge i'm going to be  running right linearly parallely with my molding   so if i go off the side of the edge it's not going  to catch the molding and wing it out of my hands see now you're starting to see it  get a little bit of a shine to it   you have to remember this is your first  application so this is where you're working on removing your heavier scratches and imperfections so just like with the buffing  of the paint this is the part of the process   that takes the most time you look at that it's  starting to look pretty good let me just keep on   keeping on how do you know when you're done  when it's shiny enough for you you don't see   imperfections you don't want to see it's going to  be kind of one of those things okay so i turned   the buffer i went to this uh larger camera so  that i can show you a little bit different angle   of me doing this i am going to add a little  bit of buffing material to it which doesn't   take much just run it on here just like that this  way here you can really see how i'm working that seven o'clock position so i'll just kind of cup this like this way  here i can put a little pressure on the molding   and uh if i if my molding should pop off of here   it's not really going to go anywhere  it's not going to fly up into this   so this is really all i'm doing i'm  just running this molding on this pad   for days weeks months hours no not really  i mean it's it's like all of this stuff   it takes a lot of time i'm just going to  keep at it and then when i want to do this   edge right here i like to stand it right up on  edge this way here and put my pressure like that   not turn it this way because my pad will catch  this and it'll bend my molding so i want to   make sure that when i do my edges i just run the  edge on there like that like see what i'm saying   the worst case scenario is i end up going like  this or on the other side if i do it this way   worst case scenario is this pad catches this  twist it slams it against here and it makes a   freaking mess out of your molding and then you  got to repair that no it never happened to me   i'm lying of course it happened to me remember  what experience is just a whole bunch of mistakes so here we are so now i mean i got that shined up pretty good  compared to this hopefully you can see that   i'm going to continue i'm going to do  all of this molding and the other one   with the sizzle then we'll move over to  the intermediate all right folks so i've   completed the uh polishing of this entire  one molding anyways with the first step   and i've laid it next to the um the molding from  the other side what i've decided to do is i'll do   one side complete from start to finish that way  there i can lay it down next to my other molding   that has yet to be polished and you  can get a contrasting difference   okay so now if you look at my two moldings  here you'll be able to see what's going on   this molding here i've done the first process this  molding here has uh is just like it was after i   did my um my pick and file repair and then sanded  it but as you can see this top molding looks   pretty darn good i mean some people probably would  just take and say hey you know that's good enough   for me but we're going to take and polish it the  entire way so that we have a molding that looks   um as if it's new okay so for the ease of filming  i swapped my discs around off camera i'm going   to work on this side that way there i can have a  close-up camera to my right and you can see what   i'm doing and then i've got this camera for this  angle so i've got my intermediate um buffing wheel   on here and i'm using my black emery which will  provide my second step i'm what i'm going to do   now is i'm going to i'm going to turn this on i'm  going to run some of the black emery onto this pad   and then i'm going to begin the second step of the  polishing of that one molding so let's get to it   all right i had already cleaned my pad prior  so now i'm just going to take my memory here and get it right on this pad coated up nicely  and we'll start just like with as we did before   now much like the buffing of the paint the  buffing of the metal is very similar uh the   first process takes a little bit longer and the  next ones there afterwards subsequently each take   a little bit less time because you're doing less  polishing really you're just refining that shine   so i'm doing the same exact process with this polish as i did the last one  making sure i'm not going to catch any edges   and i tend to keep my molding moving so as i don't overheat any particular area i'm working that small area generally a between of screw holes that i  got there and then working my edges and then take a look at it and it looks pretty  good i mean it shines itself right up nicely and uh i'm going to continue on i'll put  the uh close-in camera on so you can watch   me actually do it and i will continue  with this process throughout this molding you can see it really brings the shine up nicely so always staying away from my edges so yeah that looks that looks pretty darn good  i'm just gonna go ahead and start focusing on   my next section here and continue to do it the  same way so what i'm going to do is i'm going   to go off camera and i'm going to polish this  entire molding just like you're seeing it now   and then we'll do another little comparison  on the bench then we'll move on to the uh   to the final part of the process okay so  here we go now this is my original molding   this is my polished moldings and i'll  just kind of go along it so you can see   i mean you can see the the the difference in the  shine after just the two polishings now the last   polishing will bring the shine up to the end  you know bring it up as much as you can and   then after that you can use some chrome polish  or what have you this uh this is a very soft   pad so it really wings around you got to kind  of be careful with it i'm going to clean it up   i'm going to take and put our white  rouge on there notice how it's white plenty of that on there and now we'll just  start like we usually do right on the end   all the same principles apply this is  just going to put a higher shine on it this pad is very soft it's just like  a stack of fibers stack of rags almost really gives things a nice shine and  watch how this really brings the shine up almost almost chrome-like i think that's looking pretty darn good and just  continue on down this molding just like this this uh this pad being much more flexible is also  a lot less a lot more forgiving you're not quite   as apt to catch it and rip the molding out of  your hand but you still have to be really careful   there you go looks pretty good to me so there's  our two moldings the one obviously closest to me   i've polished um the one on the inside's been  sanded and straightened but it's going to need   the polishing and i will do that one off camera  and finish the job all right well that concludes   our video today on polishing the stainless steel  if you didn't watch the previous video where i   show you how to do all the repairs uh please  uh check that out that'll i'll leave a put a   card up above so you can click on that at  the end please like the video if you like   it and subscribe if you could that would help me  support my channel there'll be links down below to   purchase anything that you need to do this project  i'll put links there and if you could click on my   links if you're going to buy something that would  really help me out and i would appreciate that   so uh in conclusion please like and subscribe  once again and uh good luck on your project you

Channel: Troy Kane Vtwins to v8s

Views: 23,144

Keywords: repair stainless steel trim, restoration, polishing, do it yourself, buffing, automotive, buff, polish, steel, stainless, classic car, polish stainless steel, how to polish stainless steel, stainless steel, stainless steel polishing, buffing stainless steel, car detailing, trim, how to, repair, fix, troy kane, Vtwinstov8s.com, diy, auto restoration, car restoration, muscle car, step by step, restore, muscle car restoration, tips and tricks, restoration videos, automotive tools

Id: RLvzdAvzYlQ

Length: 27min 12sec (1632 seconds)

Published: Fri Nov 19 2021