How to Paint: Tomb Kings Skeleton Spearmen

[Music] hi I'm Brenan Baker AKA BB Miniatures and welcome to my latest video I've been very lucky to have Gans workshops send me a new box set of the Tomb Kings from the re-release returning to field world of Warhammer fantasy I knew my patience would pay off someday as his classic has returned with an updated rule set and awaiting a new coat of paint literally back when I was around 1920 like close to 20 years now my most memorable Army I played were the tomb Kings it all comes back to my fascination of ancient Egypt with their numerous gods and unique style as a culture but now I'm back and determined to paint up a force and also to return with some close friends to take back on the battlefield armed with a whole lot of new hobby knowledge and experience I'll be sharing with you my methods on how I'll make these ranks of skeletons look awesome to take to the field and be a proud over of a very impressive and immersive Army for materials I'll be utilizing the airbrush as well as enamel washes that need thinners in order to dilute the paint I highly recommend using these materials in a well ventilated area and wear a respirator with the right filters applied a hair dryer is also handy for The hobbyists Who wish to help speed up the drying process but otherwise a wet pallet some metal saucers for making washes and pigments are also handy to keep the process smooth before we get started let's just take a quick look at a completed single skeleton Warrior and make a few notes on what I want to achieve first off is the color palette when looking at the tomb King's art it's good to notice that the combination of the desert sand and The Scorch Sun as we get a lot warmer tones of ochres umbers and oxides this Trio are all fairly desaturated with no pure colors but in the contrast spot color we have that is that Camry royal blue this main color of the forest not only stands out really nicely but also decorates their Shields which take up a large area of the model it's for this reason that in order to make an army stand out on the battlefield I'll be putting a little extra time in to the make to making these look great it's this and the gold that are the main elements on the model they'll get the detail brush with chipping and even some Edge highlighting secondly to add into the importance of the blue all my unit standards get a little extra love when it comes to their banners you don't really have to do this of course but if you pair it with the shields these are the largest visual elements of your basic troops we have only an old little saying about old army painting which is faces and bases well for these Tom King skeletons I would make a tweak and say Shields and bases also note to make an army painting easier I highly recommend you paint the shield separately it's much easier to get both the airbrush and the brush on both the skeleton and the shield when they aren't attached to each other and you'll see why later in this video I'll be painting skeletons in batches of 10 to start and as I get more confident I might start to increase that to possibly 20 then go ahead and start doing the shields the same batch manner I keep the numbers low as not to burn myself out it's a real skill and a test of endurance and patience to do huge batches at a time and also a real feat to keep the quality up and consistent so if this is your first Army or you have a history of burning out and not finishing Army projects like I did in the past there's no shame to starting small and working your way up just like lifting weights of the gym you start light and as you get stronger you increase the weight finally when it comes to Highlights both with the brush and the airbrush a general rule applies to these units Focus your highlights on the model's chest and up the main colors here are with the base midtone and highlight the base is well your base the midtone is over your base while leaving a little bit of space and the highlights we focus at the very top these models are all going to be standing shoulder Tosh shoulder and pressed together in tight formation they would be naturally shading one another with the majority of the light always just at the top even if you're not painting skeletons this rule can apply to any infantry formation in the old world from dwarves to even the men at- arms of pronia okay that's enough of the brief of this project let's get our models out and let's start laying down some paint let's get started okay let's get started here first off I just gave a primer undercoat of um games workshops black through a rattle can and right away we're going to be starting off with the airbrush and using uh Tamia's Hull red I really love Tomia paint especially through the airbrush in particular when you thin this out with tama's x20a thinner make sure to get the a version because the regular X20 thinner is for their enamel paints I believe but the a at the Daren stands for acrylic so get that and running that through the airbrush for all my airbrushing I'm using um harder steinback Evolution I set that around 28 PSI and the thinning of the paint is generally a one to one I like to work with a thin airbrushed paint to really take advantage of the clean and uh the clean smooth application and roughly doing around two layers two Thin layers has always been better than one thick one you'll get a better finish at the end next off is uh going to use citadel's xandre dust again um I will be putting this since the the pots are always kind of tricky with Gams Workshop you know you don't get the The Dropper bottle but um besides that little thing I'm just going to apply it into a dish and I'm applying again I'm thinning it down with more Tomia x2a thinner this thinner is awesome for GW paints and uh you know you don't have to bother with their Airline which I don't even think they even sell I never tried it but a little um a word of note when you're using this x28 thinner with other paint brands do a little test like you're doing in a Petri dish sometimes the x28 thinner since it's a you know it's an acrylic and alcohol based some paints um tend to gun up and even like gel out um some AK paints react to this stuff strangely so make sure just to give it a quick test if you're not using the GW andry dust so the first highlight we're going to be placing on top of the airbrush again with the same settings is is uh we're playing it around like a 45° angle I want to cover the majority of the model in this and just leaving just a hint of that Hall red in the undercoat and if you notice I'm just going really really thin and going softly across the entire model just making sure that when you're pushing down the trigger is you're never fully opening the airbrush and that just goes for all airbrushing in general what I'm doing is I'll never fully open the airbrush I'm only trying just to get just enough paint just outside to get you a soft Mark and just running going uh gently across model and make sure to keep that angle that around that 45° angle um downwards onto the model is your um is a good way to highlight the model if you start blasting from the underside you'll start to lose this you know kind of like this zenial effect you know just taking a tour and just doing a couple of thin quick coats through the entire thing when I see paint that buil bu up a little too wet I stop on that I stop painting on that area and move to another worst thing is you can have a lot of pooling if you don't allow areas to dry the second layer is usati bone so the same thing I'm just going to mix it in a dish like I did before and I'll start applying a second degree of highlights A good rule of thumb is when you're doing these second stage highlights and not to cover your entire first layer of work is two things first off is make the angle of your airbrush steeper so in the first layer if we doing around like a 45° angle now I'm just going to get more steeper so 70° and two just like in my um uh in our introductory statement but where I'm placing the highlights the majority of them I'm focusing this airbrush shots are on the head the shoulders the arm and the chest and depending on how the skeleton is standing for instance this guy you know has like that flexed knee kind of pose um maybe a little shot on his knee and that's it uh along the back especially since that the very vertical plane holding the airbrush or tilting it down so it's shooting almost directly 90° down will really help just Nick the very very top edges of each of the parts of the model especially on the spine and to not um cover your previous your previous layer which would kind of defeat the highlight and right here this is just a good comparison shot between the two so on the left is the completed highlighted skeleton bone and on the right is the first one with just the xandre dust applied so just to give you guys a good comparison shot to uh you guys feel where you guys are going in that direction hey I would just like to take a second out of this tutorial to mention that I'm also on patreon if you enjoyed this video tutorial and would like to learn more in-depth techniques such as color theory higher display model paintings and more consider joining me and becoming a patreon where this tutorial covers the rank and file skeletons that make up the tabletop Army the new dominating skeleton dragon released in the new Tomb King's Army box set is a centerpiece and that cannot be ignored and of course deserves much more detail according to his Rank and Status watch and learn how I create the bone textures highlighting placements and contrasting gold N&M in this first part model series only available to patreon tier subscribers of course your support means here a lot on YouTube as well so if you enjoyed the tutorial and found anything useful I would really appreciate you liking this video subscribe if you haven't already and the important thing is to leave a comment as that's the best way to know to let me know that you're enjoying the content and encourages me to make even more okay I did my due diligence of the YouTube shout out let's get back to what really matters the painting now for uh probably the most important parts of the model which is going to be the blue detail as well as the gold so first off we're going to start with the blue and this blue I'm starting off with a scale 75 um cabic blue I quite like this I quite like these paints um I'm an old fan of scale 75 even though I've I haven't um taken them out very often uh you know just getting used to other other paints but you know this is a nice comfortable paint that I'm coming back to in a nice uh in that interesting scale 75 almost like a gel-- like medium this is only thinned a little bit here cuz I'm just giving a base coat so I will probably thin with just a little bit of water just to get the paint just to get the paint to flow a little bit nicer along the brush as I never like the paint with um paint that's just taken straight out of the bottle I always feel it just needs a little bit of water to get running and we're just going to doing some basic base coats um if you're skele not all the skeletons have this headdress too I don't think they have enough to cover the entire unit so on the ones that don't well of course you're skipping this step and those skeletons go even faster but for the ones that have the headdress which I really like we're just going to start base coating around the entire um area around that headband don't worry if it gets on the lips uh uh the trim of it because we'll do that later in metallics but it's just more important to get a a nice solid coat for us to work off from next off the highlights is going to be with Citadel Aram and blue and I'm going to be doing some real real uh easy and you know not the best looking highlights uh SL Blends but what I do here is I thin out the Aram and blue and I mix that up with just a little bit of uh cabic blue and I thin this paint around a one to one one part water to one part paint and the most important thing about here is the brush direction that you are applying them so in the direction you want to be brushing in the direction towards the brightest part of the Highlight or rather where you want the most solid part of the color so on that uh on that side strap that you know looks like giant sideburns I'm going to be painting I made the first brush Strokes towards the front and that just makes the uh that just makes a little bit of a softer a slightly softer transition a really really you know quick and dirty um blend if that is a little bit annoying or you don't feel that you know you're you're getting the the blend correct or you're just you know you got a lot of these skeletons do you can just go ahead and just Edge highlight these it's just to give a little bit of pop and a little bit of [Music] volume here's a good example you can see how I'm brushing towards the front of the uh of that Sideburn thing and it just gets a little bit um a soft it just gets a bit of a softer Edge toward the back and you know we're not looking for any like any award-winning competition blending here it's just making it look pretty effective you know we want to keep this to a tabletop and not drive ourselves crazy when it comes to highlighting the the band at the top I don't even wrap the Highlight all the way around I want to keep the all the highlights I want to pull around and focus towards the front much like a sphere uh next up if you want to do a little extra bit of highlight I just mix AR and blue and some white um any white will really do you know it doesn't really matter um if you are a little more onto the the finish and I want to keep to the GW finish um I pulled off this I used of white from scale 75 the their fantasy range their fantasy and game range which has a more Satin finish so similar to games workshops more Satin finish but you know that that's a small little nitpicky detail I just happened to have the paint at my desk and uh decided hey you know what I'll just get a white that more matches the finish of a and blue after the blues are done um I have gone ahead and coated all the areas of metal with black and then now I'm using scale 75's decayed metal um big shout out to uh the boys at Cult of paint for getting me onto this decayed metal um I'm not huge I'm never a huge fan of metallics I don't paint a lot with metallics but when when I do um I was very fortunate to have scale 75 uh send me a sample of all their metallic paints and just steadily um going through them and uh testing them all out especially on the the these more recent army projects and uh this decayed metal was uh really awesome I think it makes a great base for the gold I want to do for the Army so just taking your time and putting it into there uh just a word especially since you're painting with metallics um a good thing to do is to uh after you paint metallics change your paint water the worst thing is is getting uh metallic flakes in your paint water and then if you're going to go back and paint with regular acrylics like we will later on um when you get to the Shields and such the last thing you want to do is having like that metallic flake in your blue and other areas that are not supposed to be metallic as well as um if if you only have one set of brushes um just take some brush soap and give them a quick clean after you do metallics just to be sure on the safe side but I mostly do my metallics with more worn out brushes that are not brand new um as for the details of um the bandages you'll be using I'll base coat everything scale with a walnut by um scale 75 and um like I said in the intro you know I was like to give a little bit of extra um push and detail into the banners and uh you know this is this is going to be one of them so for just for the base coats you know I'm just laying down probably take around two layers to get a solid coat now I think the biggest mistake that I always see a lot of people um when they're doing like base coats especially over black is almost overworking the paint having the first layer go down and then then applying the second layer like I'm doing here I'm almost like sometimes I find I'm kind of dabbing the paint on as just as much not as much as like streaking it and and pulling the paint across the entire entire surface I I always do the the pull across on the first layer just to get some color down and then the second one is a little more of a dab and the same kind of dabbing motion I'm going to be doing here with um with the Walnut mixed with pale Sands from AK and we're just going to apply them on the general highlights for these volumetric highlights you're looking I'm just see I'm just looking at the curve uh the general like curve motion of the of the straps and as it uh as the apex of the curve at the top here comes out and then it starts to fold backwards that's where a shadow is going to be if you ever have having issues um with uh highlight placement when we first Prime the model black that's actually a really good time to you know hold it under a lamp and you can you can see where the highlights hit uh especially with games workshop's black primer um has a bit you know has a has a glossier finish to it and that actually like really um that really stands out and really helps you read the volume quickly and uh you know it's never a bad idea if um you're not entirely sure of the the models that you're doing you can always just take a picture of it and uh under the black primer and you got a good visual reference here you can see that I've just laid down some uh highlights as well as using the same value to start giving a bit of edge highlighting just to punch out some of that detail same thing thing with like the general rule applies is when I'm doing these um quick volume highlights it's all about the brush Direction just like I said at the beginning of of the where we were doing the blue on the head excuse me and just to break up a little bit of the surface this adding a little bit of lines uh these like little dots so like little cut lines little dots throughout the entire project actually add a little bit of noise to your Blends so they don't have to be super smooth but uh the nice thing is with these lines and little cuts it adds a little bit of character a little bit of like you know kind of like weathering and stuff like that but it also breaks up the surface the visuals uh you know the visual transition so can kind of hide hide uh not the most smoothest Blends which is totally fine here I'm going in with uh rinox hide such an awesome color really versatile and for this it just works as a nice um Shadow color for um all your Undead straps now if you notice like even on the banner here like I said I always going to take a little bit extra time just with the banners because they're such large visual elements and there's only one of them in the for each unit so it's not punishing to do this across like 20 to 30 skeletons um a really simplified process for this is just basee coding Walnut um doing a highlight with a walnut NYX uh with that AK pale Sands and then um you know shading doing a simple um uh black lining or like you know Shadow lining with rhox hiide and that's it that's all you really need to do but here I decided to um you know just give you a little more um of a of a detailed shot of what I would do on the tomb King B maners with these kind of um you know parchment stuff the same thing if you look at like the center uh cloth of the blue it's literally the same process as the helmet and the same techniques I'm using here for uh these uh Walnut uh these Walnut banners but just in blue now to keep it really simple the staffs on here I just paint really basic with ak's burnt umber nothing fancy from Games Workshop I really don't like it when they make the weapon staffs like super bright I don't know why they do that I think they just want to add more like visual color and you're welcome to do that I'm not saying it's like the wrong way to do it but I find that highlighting an area and bringing a lot of attention to a part of a weapon that is extremely boring and doesn't uh you know in terms of a visual hierarchy doesn't really do much it's it's just the staff of the weapon if anything the most important part of the weapon is is the pointy end right so yeah that's why you know we're doing gold for uh for the spear tips but for the staffs um I don't give any like extra blue or anything like that keep it simple it doesn't have to be it just can be just any dark color it could be like a really really dark gray or I just chose Brown very neutral easy now to uh spice up that uh gold I use uh valo metal um metal all cut gold I really love this paint it is like really nice flows really smooth um you might notice has quite a a must it's much thinner off the brush compared to the scale 75s metallics which are a lot thicker on the brush and on the paint especially with metallic since they don't have like strongest coverage um if you thin them down so this like straight out of the pot and uh just watch out with your charge with this paint because it does flow really thin um it also runs through the airbrush really really well for you know other applications in the future you know cuz I don't think you're going to buy the paint just to paint tomb King's uh tomb King Spears and trim but um yeah it's really formulated for the airbrush but works just as well through the brush just um just make sure you don't overload your brush because uh since it runs thinner um if you have too much in your brush it will like you know kind of pull out and would possibly cover up those details especially when it gets around the headband of the warrior you know you don't want to do all that blue work and then just have it spewed out with a bunch of gold oops but for the spears here these Spears the the model itself the sculpt is not great it's one of the flaws of the old uh the older skeleton sculpts they're kind of rounded off so I kind of just make up the sharpness by just where The Cutting Edge would be on the spear that's where I paint gold and I will leave a big blank empty spot of the decayed metal um similar fashion of what the cloth is where I just add little like little you know Nooks a little scratch little lines and little like dots just to break up the area make it just give the the gold just a little bit of of interest and texture on the spear but nothing fancy it's not like you have to do that again I'm just showing you on another model so this one doesn't have like a skull in the middle but you can really see how this is very important that I just gather the highlights on the front of the head and just a little touch in the back along the sides so along the temple areas of the head I will leave in that decayed metal this will just help out the highlights to make the head look more round and um it's actually if you look at it it's a little less to paint so you get the you get a more three-dimensional interesting look and you have to paint a little bit less um that's a huge win-win in the Army and when you're looking at you know 100 skeletons or or more you know depending what your army composition is you're going to take every single little extra an extra like little shortcut you can um for these characters that have a little bit of armor um the nice thing is it's a nice easy round shape so just highlighting the top half crest of the circular shape will do the odd little uh highlight band here and yeah there's supposed to be these looks like straps post I bet most people think probably like some sort of leather strap or something to hold this together together but for the Army you know I'm not going to bother to paint those uh you know paint that a different color it's just going to get lost in the whole unit anyway like I said the main the main parts of the of this Army is really about that blue and that gold so I'll just let those showcase and um you know we'll we'll sacrifice a certain amount of resolution in the Army for the sake of of of horde Army painting I'd rather spend that time on you know maybe doing the tomb guard which would warrant a little more decoration or like the shopy and such so you know pick your battles that's what I say um and again see little bits of noise in there just makes it look a little more [Music] [Music] interesting sweet so um what I'm using here now now is a mixture between mist and red and um wow I even wrote it on screen but Boro red there we go um this red I mix these two colors together um just because um I found miston red a little too strong in the red bordo red from AK is uh much a little more desaturated and I'm using this as a secondary spot color um because I don't want it as pure and as strong as the blue uh you know I don't want them I want the blue to be more dominant so if there's little little parts of the model that you want another splash of color and I'll be using this as a a secondary kind of trim color um you actually see the unit leader um the unit champion on his shield he has a little bit of extra accent with this red and that's all I'm using As for a smaller uh a secondary accent and this time I chose to um just write the the Sanskrit on these on the banner you know I'm not not going to take a huge amount of time doing the the freehand um just doing some simple um yeah I just searched up some some Sanskrit um pages off of um Pinterest I use that a lot just to find images um I'm not going to be I don't want to be doing the hieroglyphs on the main units because that is like the language of the Gods from ancient Egypt and only the most important people will get the hieroglyphics for everyone else like these dudes here they'll get some Sanskrit and I'm not looking to be totally accurate either you just need to get some stuff down on there so with your patience of painting the entire model now I can go ahead and give it the entire Model A gloss varnish I use gloss varnish from ak's third generation acrylics but any polyurethane gloss varnish will do um just spraying that through the airbrush and let that fully dry now to give our bases a little bit of extra love I'm just using this stuff by scale 75 the soil works I like this Mars pattern um I really like the color that it comes in and it just you know it's it's colored there just for us to skip a step if you just have a like paste that is neutral you can always paint that paste after or rather if you have like a neutral colored paste you can actually put your own pigments in there and give it a good mixture but the stuff I have from scale setting 5 is already uh colored and I think it be really good uh a continuation color for my tomb Kings since uh you know we're using whole red and a lot of um uh just a lot of uh you know more warmer tones into here this sand will this will give a good base color for the ground as we will apply pigments on afterwards being a careful not try to like cover the entire foot if stuff gets on the feet who cares it's in the sand you know um I'm just making sure I don't want to like overlap the entire foot with this stuff the other thing I just make sure of is that you know just kind of moving the grit around there's areas are going to be less uh you know less of the acrylic grit in there and that's fine um if it gets on the base edges I just use my finger and just give it a quick wipe off um I'm not so I'm not so worried about the red color on the side of the trim because we'll paint over that but I just want to make sure that I don't have any leftover grit on the side because I'd rather have the frames of the base look nice and clean cuz it is a frame you know makes the model look that much nicer when it's uh when it's not dirtied up on the sides all right time for the real flavor game so ak's war game washes dark rust wash and then they also have the fruit scented thinner this is what I mean by you need a couple of um little the coup of these cups because it's just so much easier to pour a little bit out and then you can s it I don't like using the I generally don't like using the washes like straight out of the pot I always like to give it a little bit of thinner um because I'd rather apply a couple of thin coats um you know just in case you know maybe it's too thick and then you spend more time rubbing it off or like moving it off but keep in mind this is going to be an enamel rather than an oil wash they both get thinned very similarly and you can also manipulate an enamel by removing um excess as you would with oils but the nice thing is with enamels is they dry a lot faster so you won't have like those hour or two working times as you would with oils but um you know I'm not going to be I just want to apply this wash all the way around here covering everything on the model and that uh that gloss varnish really helps uh break the surface tension so my wash really gets into all the crevices and shades everything as well as over the flat surfaced areas you know it leaves just a bit of a a skim coat a nice little filter so it's going to you know it's tinting all it's going to tint all that bone back to a little more of uh that reddish orange which I really want and yeah you know even going over the blue the other dish that that I have on the side is just a dish of just pure thinner so after I'm going to be you know going through the entire model the one thing we're going to be doing is protecting a bit of our highlights um and protecting a little bit of the color I still want this wash of course to go over the blue it's going to tint the blue a little bit and bring all the colors all every the entire model is going to come together a little bit closer a little more hogen with this wash but if you notice that if you get there's too much of this wash across the blue we can just start pulling some of it off by a series of rinsing your brush clean with the thinner dabbing it on a paper towel so you know your your brush is not like soaking wet of thiner it's more just like softly damp and then you can start pulling off um rubbing off the uh the wash where uh you want to uh remove it mainly again in the highlights the other areas that I like to um remove it is on the head as I'm doing here so I have a pretty much like almost a dry brush there so just gently removing the excess off on those areas now with the uh pigments I'm going to make a pigment wash I like making pigment washes just because it makes the area a little bit cleaner when you're doing working with pigments uh you you know it can get quite a bit all kind of messy but if you just mix pigments with some water and mix them in get mix them in a tin you'll make like this uh you know this liquidy pigment um type of uh type of paste I'm going to add a little bit more into there just to make it uh a bit thinner so around that thinness it's really hard to describe it's more like just the look the nice thing is when you apply this pigment as a wash goes on like this and you might not think like oh what the is going on with this stuff um but the nice thing is when this when the uh when the water evaporates it just leaves the pigment and the pigment will look a lot drier now again like when this this the look of this pigment uh looks a lot darker too um but if you if you check out the original color of the pigment it's a lot lighter and when it's all dried you can also use a hair dryer to help you out if you're you know a little pressed for time that's what it looks like when it's dry so and some models you know I might have missed a little bit of patchiness or I want to move things around but the nice thing is is that I can just get a scrap brush and just start massaging it and just pushing it into the areas to make it a little more um uh unified across the ground or maybe you apply your wash a little bit too thick and you want to remove some it's always good to do like you can always do like one test model let that dry and then see how well your your your mix of your washes and you can just adjust the dilution accordingly after that I using a matte varnish by Mig um this matte varnish is quite interesting because has a little bit of a shine to it and I quite like that actually it's not like as matte as you would say um ak's ultramat which uh more on that a little bit later but I'm just going to give the entire model a matte varnish the one thing I did in with my airbrush settings is I lowered it down to 18 PSI just so I don't just blow all of the uh pigment away but the nice thing is I even hit the pigment and when this is all dry it acts as an anchor and it hold it in place now to the shields this is why I paint them separately because we can just use our airbrush to really help us uh you know bang these out and uh not get this gray primer all over the place I use gray primer just because yeah I want a little I want a more vibrant blue to come off of and it's just a lot easier to get the base coats down on a gray primer um any gray primer I do but I did use um you know ak's uh ak's gray gray primer through the airbrush and the same uh colors that we originally applied with our blue on the skeleton are also of course going on the shield so canabar blue you can see how I'm doing doing the first pass I'm just getting some paint on here I'm not worried about complete coverage this is again how I can get a nice soft and unified um finish through my airbrushing instead instead of uh rushing and trying to you know nail the entire coat on the first pass allowing a couple of uh two passes to go through will just it just leads you to a lot nicer um nicer finish in the end and make sure don't forget to get the edges of of the of the models too on the left and the right sides which um sometimes I forget and then you're like oh man got to go back there with like a brush again kind of annoying but even mounting uh I've just mounted these uh my shields on this uh this Cork and then there's just a piece of blue tack pretty much right where the handle of where the skeleton hand supposed to go in anyway so I think it holds it quite nicely and just doing a couple of Tours again Citadel Aram and blue will be our uh the the next highlight into through the airbrush and this is actually a good demo here um of how soft I like to use the airbrush so when you're doing giving letting air through I'm pulling the needle back very slowly on the trigger and right when I start to see a ghost of the image like that like that soft Mark that's it that's how far I like to open up the airbrush I don't open it up anymore and this way you get a very very soft application and you can see the paint build up nice and evenly you know you're not surprised by this big sudden jerk of a ton of paint coming out and um if you need a you know anytime if you feel even if your hands are kind of cold in the day or especially if it's like the first thing you're painting you're going on with the airbrush it just pays to do a couple of test shots get a little bit warmed up and um you know finding that point in the airbrush where paint just starts to come out into in that fashion as well as um you know thinning out that paint it really uh that the x20a thinner is Awesome with this GW paint and um you know mixing to at least like a one to one you know I I like I love airbrushing with with thinner paints cuz you get such a nice smoother result and that x28 thinner really um helps uh thin out and evenly distribute the pigment especially on gains Workshop paints so as you can see with the highlights here that I'm applying I apply at the top of the shield and straight down the middle just to show off a little bit of The Shield that has that curve that cylindrical curve you know that that goes a long way to helping um illustrate the shape now you know if you have some extra um I had a lot of I poured too much Aram and blue so I just put a little bit of white straight from the pot into there and just made a highlight mix and then of course added a little bit more thinner into the into uh into my airbrush just to um even out the ratio and again the nice thing is by airbrushing really really thin you can slowly build those highlights to a level that you need it and this time this these highlights the only place I'm going to be putting them as is at the top I'm not going to be running this highlight down the center like I did in the last layer this just brings a little more light to the top quite [Music] nice actually I really enjoy painting the shields in in Warhammer fantasy I think that's one of the biggest highlights with a lot of these ranked files is uh you know just having this big rank of shields in front of you good decoration and it just really like looks like a solid bulwark of of uh strong Warriors or in this case brle SK skeletons but hey you can raise them right [Music] yeah and here even with another note when you're doing these highlights especially on these upper areas is I'm also just looking at how wet the area is so as soon as it starts to get shiny and wet um I just leave it and go to the next one um because that's the easiest way that you can overh highlight something with airbrush is you're judging too much on what the area looks like wet but we really want to know how it changes when it dries so doing a little shot and observing and then making adjustments as you go along now for the metallics it's the same actually uh sequence as we did the skeleton Warriors so first off I went through and painted this all black um as a as as a a primer for the metallics it's probably the most tedious part of the entire painting or the entire process and it's also I to me it's the most boring cuz it's just you know taking black but this little extra uh this extra stage of laying down black before you put down your gold I think just helps definitely helps in the metallic finish not only for the colors but also to you know keeping the paint finish nice and thin and and vibrant I think you can if you on a real pinch I think you can get away with just putting the decayed metal straight on top of without doing the black but the nice thing is with the black you also get some like good natural shading as well if you don't you know not going to go totally accurate with uh with your metallics so it's really a choice but I think it really pays off because because I can get nice thin even distribution of the metallic paint and also metallics also I think look better when they're done over a black base coat as for the gold that I'm using here it's the same vmc gold again focusing the highlights at the very very top and focusing it on the arch so when any of those panels go down into a vertical plane I don't touch them I just get the very very just get the the top curvature and then uh do an edge highlight the inner Edge highlight the one that's on the inside that's like bonus land if you want to do them um you know I'll paint it in I don't think it's too much of a too much of an issue but you know if that's like if there's one Edge highlight that you can miss that's the one you know that's the least important one on the shield um I really like these uh rounded um I don't know what they're called nubbin but they're really easy and uh to make look good and effective so um just putting the gold and just focusing more of the Highlight on the top half of that little circle really make them look more rounded now for the chips hell yeah so like I said in introduction if there's anything we're going to spend a little bit extra time on it's going to be the shields CU they just take up so much of the face so by getting rinox hide and mixing in with a little bit of black um you can skip the black if you really want to you just do rhinox hiide we're just going to be applying some chips and I'm applying them by brush um I just enjoy doing that so focusing and doing you know making areas of the edges of the shields worn out I try to leave like just little gaps in between the edges you know not just smear all of it along cuz I want a little bit of like when we highlight the blue to kind of poke out and to like it look a little bit irregular but for the um for the horizontal chips that run or these markings that run across it's just like a series of it's almost like Morse code that you're doing on your Shield like dots and dashes and um the best thing to do is of course get your detail brush out so I'm using my Artis Opus number two or sorry double zero not number two double zero um my favorite detail brush it works works great um I'll thin this paint again so this rhox hide is oh almost one to one um you know one part water one part paint a little bit less than that little more on the paint side and you can see how I'm just using the very just working the very tip of the brush um and just trying to keep uh the best the one of the best piece of device is just try to keep a very light hand when you do across these um you almost want to I like to make a note is you're almost trying to tickle the surface of of the uh of the model with the tip of your brush and sometimes you won't get a mark because you'll be focusing on uh you know such a light touch that you don't but that's okay you know it's kind of like this just natural bits of little bits of skipping in between and you know again it's just little dots and dashes and um you know trying to complete a line going from like left to right and of course give yourself some variation you know not everything has to be at the same degree or angle switching it up by um mostly I mostly like moving the area around now for other highlights so this is Airman blue mixed with some white and I am doing here and doing some Edge highlights so some Nicks along the edges as well as I am doing the unders sides of uh of several of these chips um this uh this part of the Highlight is also a great way to correct any chips that you did that are really big so if you did like a an acdal big oops a big monsters one with the uh the rhox hide you can actually take this color and cut over that highlight and actually reduce the size of it just by you know like by a little bit so you know that might be a little bit of a way to correct it if you made it too large but at the same time you know there's a lot of these shields and there's going to be Shields that look good and then there's going to be Shields you might not be so proud of when you put these together or when you play them on your model put the good shields on the front or at least take the ones that are best give them to your command and then the the the one or two models you think that look the best maybe even putting like maybe a little DOT sticker at the bottom of the base tell you which ones are the best or something and then you put the crappier ones in the back ranks no one's going to know you are going to make mistakes I think there's some Shields here I'm like uh you know I could have done better but you know I put those ones the uglier ones in the back good ones in the front there's a lot of them to go around so um you know it's more of like a big numbers game so you know don't stress out too too much even with like the brown chipping if you really wanted to you could probably even use the sponge but um maybe I will show that in another video in the future or I think you can actually check that out from I think my old uh sons of a hores paint job from uh horse heresy that one it's in my free it's on my YouTube playlist all right so the other thing of course we're going to give that a wash cuz everything gets this unified wash from the uh the enamel AK wash that dark dark rust wash so I applied it over the entire shield and now I'm just showing you the cleaning process so I'm just removing some of this stuff so just with a you know a a brush that is clean and dry just with a little bit of uh thinner that is kind of like damp in there I am going over the highlighted areas like you see there see I just there and I'm pulling and I'm always pulling pretty much downwards and this just gives a little bit any regular Edge it just gives a little bit of movement you don't really see too much of it but you can still see how I protected the majority of the highlights because I don't want those erase too strong and the nice thing is is that over that gloss varnish um it matted it out pretty well the back of the shields is nothing special uh I am using uh you know some of that deep shade stuff from AK um I believe this is crime and I'm just going over the entire backside even though there's like that detail of The Shield Blue Shield skin that being pulled over and singed in the spot I don't care you can just use contrast paint or something no one really looks at the back of those Shields anyway it's just to you know to cover up that area a little bit after gluing it on you can see me now now I'm just taking pigments and another way to work with it is I just put it in a tin here and I'm just taking a really crappy brush and just uh you know slotting it in there and just patting it down again with little pulls down to the um down to the base of [Music] it just to uh you know give a little bit of sand and some texture into there and then finally to seal that all up and a last sealant of here is the AK Ultram mat again when you're using this the airbrush lower down your PSI to around 18 so you don't blow away too strongly and I'm just going to coat the entire I'm going to do a layer of that on the base as well as the lower part of the shield doing your best not to aim it into the upper Parts into the highlights that in particular to hit the gold and metallic cuz you don't want mad that too much and with that final stage of the ultramat varnish you can uh put them all together rank them up and you're done thanks again for joining me on this uh tomb Kings tutorial I'm really excited to be sharing um some AR more army painting with you guys especially for a game that I'm just really enthusiastic and really hyped on and uh you know really happy to come back into this world and to be playing with some really old friends and you know just enjoying the old world as a whole um thanks again and if you are interested like I said before if you want more um display and more highly detailed painting uh breakdown of more Advanced Techniques through um you know various forms of blending color composition all that great stuff um please consider uh following and joining my patreon where you guys can join in and view over a view over 100 plus hours of video tutorials in all that classic long format that I really like to show off so you guys get to see every single you know all the main strokes and all the main color mixes and everything that goes into the creation of these projects uh other than that I really uh really hope to see you guys on Instagram and Facebook or social medias I'd really love to see your own Tom Kings and if you do use this tutorial um please give me a shout out I'd love to see um what you do with it what colors you choose and uh how you followed and uh and the your interpretation of your own tomb Kings and your own um you know armies Etc thanks again and we will see you in the next one happy painting

Channel: Bb Miniatures

Views: 25,502

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Id: K6HulCzmguk

Length: 56min 19sec (3379 seconds)

Published: Thu Jan 11 2024