How to Paint Abraxia, Spear of the Everchosen

welcome to the painting coach and in this video we're going to be painting a braia the Spear of the ever chosen this is a fantastic new model for the slave to Darkness in age of Sigma I'm really looking forward to painting it now there are quite a few elements there going to be a slightly longer video than usual a huge thank you to Games Workshop for sending me the model earlier so I can create this content let's get painting so I've built the model I've glued it all together if you want you can leave the rid off which in hindsight probably would have been a better idea and I've primed it with a black primer we'll paint the Beast first and we're going to get started with some lupac Cal green now I'm going to be dry brushing this so I'm going to paint the entirety of the Beast or the bits that I can reach using this color and I'm going to be dry brushing it using my Artis Opus series D dry brushes now I've done this a little bit too wet to get started a little bit excited so I'm probably going to have to do two coats of the lupal green next up I'm going to go to Suns of horor green and start dry brushing towards the bottom of the Beast so this is Tak into account its underbelly as well as its legs feet and I guess their hands and face so really all I'm doing is dve brush in a downward motion to build up the color and the opacity the further down we go because if you look at the box out these areas are much lighter and we want to get a nice smooth transition from the dark to light and this is how we do it I'm then going to take a mix of two partson of horse green and one part iron rack skin and what I'm going to look to do with this is further brush down to towards the bottom of the feet and of the arms so I'm starting probably about halfway up the leg I'm getting the underbelly in and again I'm continuing to dry brush this is a fairly easy set of steps to do moving forward I'm going to go to a one toone mix of suns of horse green and iron rack skin again this is nice and light and it builds up gently as you just dry brush it further and further down the legs now because I'm using mixes here I've got them on my wet palette so if I do need to go back and blend them a little bit I can do that quite simply at the moment though it seems to be going okay the final dry brush for now is with pure iron rack skin and this is just focusing on the ankles the feet the wrists and the hands this gives you a much brighter effect on this area but we are going to go in and kick up that value a little bit more as we carry on when that's completely dry add some coia green shade over the entirety of the Flesh of the Beast now this is to make sure that it gets into those recesses but it also start to unify the color scheme a little bit and if your blend is not quite on point it'll start to bring it all together once you're happy with it the next thing we need to do is while it's still wet is take some pure contrast medium and brush this over those lighter areas on the hands and the feet and what this will do will thin out the coilia green shade so it's not quite as powerful and whil it won't leave you with the completely iron rack skin area it will leave it a lot lighter and that's important for the next steps firstly we'll use iron rack skin to start to build up in those areas where we just washed now it's important the coilia green shade is dry before you do this and make sure you've just got a little bit on your brush this is just going to be the traditional layer painting style we're looking to catch those sharp edges such as the knuckles any little bits of veins that we've got popping out as well as any ridges and we want to use dots and dashes in some of these areas just to build some flashy texture we'll finish up the lighter areas using deepkin flesh and again we're going to thin this down a little bit and make sure we haven't got two on our brush we want to paint this inside the Iron Rock skin from the previous stage this is nice and simple it shouldn't take too long just work your way across the model building it up gently now there are a few scales on the shoulders of the model so what we're going to do is take some black temp black contrast paint and just paint this over those scales now if you did want to blend this into a darker color you can maybe put some null and oil over that top half where it starts to meet the armor as well we don't have to do that we just want to get the scales painted then going to use ify all of the black using a bad in Black now this isn't my black of choice but I did want something slightly more Satin than the traditional matte black I use I just painted all the black armor with a bad and black very thin down now it's time for the gold the color I used for this was dragons Gold by toothing codes now you can use retri armor work absolutely fine there's quite a lot of it so just take your time painting this and this probably is going to be the most time consuming part of the model so just paint all the trim being careful around the flash of the Beast that you've already finished and generally you can afford to be a little bit messy along the armor plates because we will go back and tidy them later on now I wanted to go for a little bit of a dirtier gold that I traditionally do I normally do a warm gold but we're going to go for something a little bit more chaosyoutube dark and too Stark and if we do spill it we don't want any nasty ridges when we paint back over it once that's completely dry we'll start highlighting and the color I'm going to use for this is glistening gold again from two Thin coats but if you've got Liberator gold that's absolutely fine the key I find with both of these paints is to make sure that they're very well shaken and well mixed now I use a Vortex mix sure to save my arm and my shoulder but if you haven't got one you just have to give a really really good Shake in terms of applying the paint this is fairly straightforward generally want to drag it along the edges of the gold armor particularly those ones facing up that are going to catch little bits of light you'll start to see the armor come to life as you do this just take your time make sure you haven't got a huge amount on your brush and as you drag it along the edges you get nice crisp highlights this is an optional stage but if you did want to push how bright the gold armor is and I'm going to use some white gold from Pro acril I'm just going to dab this on the sharpest parts that are going to catch that light so we've got things like the top of the spikes and the sharpest areas of of each bit of this trim now I'm sure you're grateful all the gold is done like I said that is the most involved part on this minique we're going to do all of the silver neck so the coloring use with this is dark aluminium from valo you can use lead Bel if that's what you've got absolutely fine no problem there's not a huge amount of silver we've got things like the uh spiky parts of the pole arm but mainly is going to be all the buckles that we've got across all the leather straps as well as some of the chain mail on a braia herself We'll Wash this with a little bit of null oil very simple and straightforward step that I won't dwell on too long you just want to make sure that it doesn't pull heavily in the recesses when that's completely dry we'll highlight it using Chrome from the model air if you haven't got this like R Fang steel will work absolutely fine so make sure you've got a good tip on your brush not too much paint and again similar to the gold you can just drag this along the sharp edges to get a really nice crisp highlight what i' say with this is a very bright color in comparison to US underneath it so just take your time and add it fairly sparingly to start with you can always go back in and add more if you want to later on for the next set of colors we're going to shade them all at the same time so we're going to get the base colors down first and then we'll come back in firstly we're going to pain all of the leather straps and the color we're going to use for this is dryed bark now this is a nice desaturated dark brown color all I say is be very careful around bits you've already finished but generally you can work it in fairly simple and fairly straightforward you'll probably go down in one coat as well just remember there are a lot of leather strip straps and I can also paint all the wraps with this as well next up we've got the horns on the Beast and the horns on a bra's head herself so we're going to base these in a dark gray now the color I'm going to use is mechanicus standard gray again this is a gray paint that goes down fairly easily and you can get away with just one coat again being careful around those bits that you've already finished finally we'll paint the scaly height on a bra's left shoulder I'm not a huge fan of this paint but I am going to use it cuz it is a good base for this it's G Vach red now I find this to have a really painful consistency and covers remaining two or thin coats here well then going to shade all those areas that we painted with brown with the gray and with the galvo back red using null oil nice and easy stage if I was thinking earlier we could have done this at the same time we did the Silver Base but I wasn't quite thinking about that but we'll get this all done nice and easy and then we'll come back and start highlighting the first highlight we'll do is on all the leather and the color we're going to use for this is goth or brown generally what we want to do is drag your brush along the edges of the leather and if you want to add some texture in you can use some dots and dashes in there as well this is a nice easy step but again there's quite a lot of leather so make sure you highlight all the bits that you need to while I've got that goth all brown out I'm also going to base all the teeth and I'm also going to go in and base the skulls that we've got on the model there's only one but we really to lighten it up so it it helps to use this color is it just makes that jump a little bit easier later on to add a little bit more texture and brightness to the leather that you can take some Carro Stone and again we're going to paint this in the same way we painted the first highlight but we want to keep it inside the goth or brown so that it just gives you that nice transition of light I'd use this very sparingly and I'd use it in this little dots and dashes as you highlight just to create that texture you can also use this on the teeth as well to start to build them up to The Brighter bony color that we're going for for the horns I'm going to throw a little bit of a curve ball in we're actually going to darken them down a little bit and we're going to do this using some corver black which a very very dark gray color now if you want you can add another coat of nelon oil but I just thought this will give me what I want quicker and it'll dry quicker as well so I'm just going to dry brush some chorus black towards the edges of the horns to give us that dark aged effect right at the end that shows that they growing out and as we start to highlight they'll become lighter towards the center they're going to go back to mechanic standard gr and start to highlight the horns now this is a nice and easy straightforward step essentially you're just going to drag your brush along all of the ridges so this will give you a nice crisp highlight that conforms to the shape of the model don't worry if it's a little thick in some places because we are going to build these highlights up as we go so don't forget I'm doing this on the beast's head and also aia's horns as well the next highlight on the horns to make them a little bit more earthy is going to be with Carrick Stone now I've thinned this down quite a bit and that's to make sure that it goes on nice and thin and will blend into the color underneath it so generally what we're looking to do is just catch the top ridges again but on the horns of the beast in particular we want to paint down as we come closer to the Head we want to build up that car Stone so it gets lighter and lighter just to give the impression this is where the fresh bone is growing from now as you paint it on you may need to put a second layer just to emphasize the carstone Highlight but generally you get a much more earthy tone than you would if you were just using something like dawnstone finally we'll highlight using some bright Ivory now this is just to catch the sharpest patches of the horns and this is a much brighter color than anything we've used so far this is procil if you haven't got that you can try something like screaming skull mix a little bit of white into it maybe just to get the brightness that you need and this is going to be used very very sparingly just to give the impression of really really sharp bone I'm also going to paint the teeth with it as well and that'll be them done to highlight the scales on the shoulder we'll first take some screamer pink and we're looking to just catch the raised edges leaving the darker colors in those recesses so just to work your way front to back and you'll get a nice highlight that'll as it dries blend into the color underneath so it'll be fairly subtle we'll finish that highlight using pink horror and again we're looking to focus on the sharpest parts of this we're just going to touch it across the tops of the scales and again that should give you a nice subtle highlight it'll look bright before it dries but as it dries it'll just blend in quite nicely we'll base all the red next and the color I'm going to use that is corn red because I want a nice dark red rather than something that's too bright so we've got things like the cloak we've also got the tattered material hanging under the shoulder guards and we've got the infernal blade on this spear now we will dull this down but it's important that we get a dark red base to start with I'm also going to paint the tongue of the Beast and that chaos star scar that it's got on its left leg and whilst this might look a bit weird it'll all come clear how this is going to work uh in a moment so when that's all dry the first thing we're going to do is we're going to take some null oil and shade the blade of the spear and then when that's dry we're going to shade it again now we could have used a mix of red and black here and if that's what you'd rather do feel free to do so we just want it to be a very very dark red and that's why I'm going with the two shades of null oil then taking my own advice from the previous step I decided to mix some black and corn red together so is one to one corn red and a bad and black and I'm going to use this to paint into the recesses of the cloth and the material now this is going to be a little bit more subtle than if I was using a wash also makes it easier to clean up and easier to build up the highlights as well so I'm just painting this into the shadow areas where I think there's going to be uh a little bit of Darkness because of the way the cloak is fluttering and also the folds of the material if you want to get your shadows darker you can add a little bit more black into that mix and again just paint this into the darkest shadows and again that'll just help with a contrast on the cloak to start to build up the highlights on the cloak I'm going to take a 50/50 mix of meis and red and corn red and there's nice big sweeping areas on the cloak here that you can paint this into so don't be scared don't be shy just paint it on and you'll start to really build up a nice rich red if you have any issues or you go over some bits You' already finished then you can just use a little bit of corn red to blend it back down a bit if you do go too far the next highlight is going to be a lot more focused and we're going to use evil Sun Scarlet which is a much brighter red than any we've used before and what we're going to look for here is to paint it along the most raised folds of the cloak and this is going to start to help us build up some nice highlights again if you make any mistakes you go too thick you can always go back in with the previous colors to cover it up the last highlight on the red of the cloak is going to be with troll Slayer orange now it's really important to paint this inside the evil Sun Scarlet of the previous step and the reason for that is it's going to give us a nice very fine highlight that just emphasizes the parts of the cloak that are catching the most light so take your time don't use too much paint for this and just add more if you feel you need it on to the tongue and the scar then so we're going to take a 50 50 mix of corn red and kislev flesh now this might seem like an odd combination but actually gives you a nice pinky red color what we're going to do on the scar is we're just going to drag the brush along the sheep of the model and then for the tongue itself we're just going to paint little horizontal lines across the entirety of the tongue leaving that corn red in the recesses underneath and we're going to start to build up that tongue texture we'll then use pure kis flesh again on the scar just dragging it across there to get some nice crisp highlight when it comes to the tongue we're going to focus on the parts that are sticking out from the mouth not so much the bits inside the mouth and we're going to make sure that our highlights are much smaller so we're talking little dots and dashes towards the edge of the tongue itself the final highlight which is a bit more refine is going to be with flade one flesh so what we're looking to do here is do it fairly sparingly and on the scar only highlight the sharpest part and for the tongue we're really only focusing on that little bit that's folded and extending out past the mouth maybe some little dots and dashes further in if we feel we need it we're going to highlight that blade next and this is quite difficult to demonstrate properly but we'll do our best the first thing we're going to do is highlight it all using mist and red what we're looking to do here is just drag it along the edges of the model getting some nice crisp highlights we're also going to paint the entirety of the second half of the blade in this and by the second half of the blade I mean the bit that goes from the hilt up to about halfway so we want to paint that all in with the corn red we want to highlight all those cracks as well we'll then take some evil Sun scarlet and highlight the same area as we did in the last step just making sure that we're trying to keep it inside the mist and red as for the blade itself we're not going to quite highlight the entirety of the second half going from the hilt up to about halfway we're probably going to go for about 3/4s and this is going to start to add in that glow effect next we'll take some troll Slayer orange and we're really focusing this inside all of the cracks but also we're going to go for about halfway of the second half so about quarter of the blade from the hilt onwards we're going to paint with the troll Slayer orange and perhaps more importantly that we're going to paint back towards the hilt and the reason we're painting back towards the hilt is that's where we want the brighter color so we want to deposit the most paint so just take your time with this if you put too much all or the transition between the red and the Orange is too much you can always feather that nice and easily using evil Sun Scarlet the next step is to take some Ariel yellow and do exactly the same thing except we're going to focus this probably on the last quarter of that little bit of the blade again painting back towards the hilt because that's where we want the brightest area to be now eal yellow is a nice thin paint just make sure you hav't got too much on your brush and build up that area nice and slowly I'm also going to Edge highlight just the tip of the blade to get a nice crisp highlight because we're going to make that look hot as well finally we'll take some Dawn yellow which is a much brighter color and we're going to focus this right back towards the hill so we want to try and blend it in if we can not by doing anything special just making sure we got very little on our brush we also want to paint it around the elements that we've got there and for that part of the chaos star we've got pointed forward we want to Edge highlight that as well because that just gives the impression that it's glowing white hot because of all of the energy coming through and again we'll just paint the tip of the blade as well now if I was in any way sensible I would have p painted the flame at the same time as the sword but I'm not so I'll just run you through this very quickly it's done a very similar way to the previous step firstly I got a nice solid base coat of mist and red down now this did take me two coats I'm then going to take some evil Sun scarlet and paint the majority of the flame just leaving that mist and red whisper out to the end a little bit I'm then going to paint troll Slayer orange on about half of the flame focusing it towards the source cuz that's where the heat is coming from when that's dry I'm going to take some AEL yellow again probably paint the bottom quarter now what you can see here is I put too much eal yellow on but that's a nice easy fix I'm just going to take some troll Slayer orange and paint this into that transition and this is going to give me a nice little blend here where without working too hard now if you're not happy with it you can always add more troll Slayer orange finally we'll fill the source of the ignition which is the brightest part with Dawn yellow it's just work this into the flame itself now again if you put too much on you can take a little bit of irel to help get you out of jail this is one of those parts where it's a little bit challenging but it's a nice skill and once you've learned it and you've got it it's Happy Days you don't have to worry about it again in the future you can just build on it the last thing we do before you can go off and finish basing the model is to highlight the armor now there's quite a lot of this so I'm going to take some dark Reaper and on the parts of armor that have got Sharp edges it's really easy to do this you just drag the brush along the edge to get that highlight where you can't do this I'm just going to follow the box art style which is highlighting inside the armor plate itself just to help it pop up and add some separation now if you want to you can do area highlights here but I'm not going to do that I'm just going to do the edges if it goes on too thick or you're not happy again it's really easy to paint over with some bad and black once you're happy with that we'll go on to the next highlight and this is with Thunderhawk blue and again where we can we can drag this along the sharp edges of the armor to get nice crisp highlights and where we can't we just want to make sure we've got a good tip on our brush now this is one of those parts that can be a little timec consuming and a little frustrating but I encourage you to stick with it again if you do make any mistakes you can always paint back over it with the colors underneath the final highlight we'll do is with friend RI and gray we want to use this fairly sparingly so where we've got sharp bits of armor we just want to put it on the sharpest Corners by dotting it on the edge and where we've got the nice big panels on the itself we're just going to focus towards the top of these areas making sure we paint it inside Thunderhawk blue but again using it very sparingly and only adding more if we feel we need it so there we have it a braia is done you can base her to match the rest of your slaves to Darkness Army and she is ready to cause havoc in the name of the ever chosen I really hope you enjoyed the video If You did leave a like and a comment down below and check out all of my other content here otherwise I'll see you next time

Channel: The Painting Coach

Views: 8,308

Keywords: games workshop, age of sigmar, painting warhammer, warhammer age of sigmar, miniature painting, slaves to darnkess, abraxia, how to paint abraxia, abraxia aos, painting abraxia spear of the everchosen, everschosen, slaves to darkness painting tutorial, abraxia painting guide, slaves to darkness army, slaves to darkness paint schemes, slaves to darkness painting

Id: dXZrG6qDFp4

Length: 20min 58sec (1258 seconds)

Published: Mon May 27 2024