How To Paddle Out The Back On Bigger Boards

i've said many times before on this channel that surfing as a sport is kind of more paddling and positioning than it is riding a wave but there are some things we can do to maximize that time gliding across the face with our feet on the board like learning how to duck dive properly and to manage your energy whilst paddling out to the lineup alrighty we've got some really good waves today so i thought it would be an excellent opportunity to show people who are riding bigger boards like this foamy here how to duck dive those bigger boards and how to manage their energy out in the water on them too this video is brought to you by audible i'll tell you more about them and the audiobooks i've been listening to at the end of this clip [Music] now as a surf coach i see tons of clients who ride longer boards such as malibu's or beginner foamies because they require the stability that those boards offer however these clients struggle with the extra volume that these boards have when it comes to negotiating the waves as they paddle out [Music] let's go through some tried and tested strategies for getting out the back on those bigger boards and conserving your energy for riding waves today i'm going to be riding my 66 foamy which sits at around 43 liters so it's around 15 liters more than my normal short board it should be pretty difficult to duck dive before we go any further i want to talk about the normal duct dive process which is to bring a back foot upward and onto the tail of the board whilst pushing down on the upper half of the board with your hands on the rails this can work very effectively with a smaller surfboard which has less foam in it which means less buoyancy this bigger board that i'm on though doesn't quite respond to the technique in the same way now through sheer determination and a lot of forward pressure during the pressing component i can almost get my foaming to go underwater but this isn't going to be an effective or sustainable approach throughout the session the first alternative strategy i want to talk about is the one i use the most when i'm on a bigger surfboard and it's called the raise method [Music] by increasing your paddling speed as you approach the white water or the lip of the wave you can maximize the chances of this technique working for you so those last few strokes are super important right before the wave hits you simply raise your body up and off the board with your arms so that the white water passes between you and the surfboard this greatly reduces the resistance you might feel from the wave [Music] remember though this will only work in moderate sized white water if the white water is taller than you you'll simply be smashed backwards with your board well i made it out the back pretty easy with that one the raise method it's one of my favorites now i want to show you something else let's go let me introduce you to the rocket ship it's similar to my pivot and swing skill to catch a wave as some whitewater approaches the surface sits up and moves to the back of the board then just before the whitewater hits the board they shoot their weight forward sliding their hands up the rails towards the nose of the board to pop out of the water and over the wave again this method works great in smaller waves but as soon as the waves get a little bit more powerful and a little bit bigger it might not be super helpful [Music] well i'm not gonna lie i was getting pretty destroyed with that one there the rocket ship there are a couple of pretty solid waves but i'll tell you what i think this next one might even be a little bit worse it's the turtle roll we'll give it a crack [Music] a turtle roll is just how it sounds approaching the wave the surfer grabs both rails of the board and rolls underneath the water in the hopes that the wave simply crashes over the underside of the board without dragging you back too much it's important that the surfer really grips onto the board tightly because with any significant power behind the wave it can be ripped from your hands quite easily another disadvantage with this trick is that you're upside down underwater which is a somewhat uncomfortable experience and secondly the time it takes to clamber back on the surfboard is quite significant and sometimes results in you only having one or two seconds to paddle meaning you haven't really made any ground whatsoever before the next wave crashes down on you this is definitely my least preferred method and to be honest i'd prefer to ditch my board and just duck under the wave when it is safe to do so [Music] dark dives on bigger boards they're almost like parking tickets you're better off not having to deal with them at all which is why i want to give you guys another couple of tips on how to get out the back efficiently on those bigger boards if you've any experience in the ocean or with surf lifesaving you'll have heard the term rip current before and most likely in a negative sense but experienced surfers use these rips to their advantage a rip is simply water rushing back out to sea after being dumped onto the sand over time patterns occur which creates small scale erosion creating channels in which the water runs back out these channels being deeper than the sand around them often means that waves don't actually break in the rip current itself as you can see here there is a very established channel running right next to the rocks of the surf break where the waves aren't really breaking and this channel can be used very effectively to make it safely and quickly out to the back of the lineup sometimes less obvious rip currents present themselves such as this one here on the other side of the sandbank the main thing to look for here is the darker colour of the water and to note how waves aren't really breaking in that zone a massive thank you to audible for sponsoring this video the reason i'm signed up to audible is because i get one free audiobook a month to listen to whilst i'm driving the van or going for a walk or just chilling here in the hammock for every surfer i recommend listening to the rise of superman by stephen cutler it's a great look into the science of flow state and how we as surfers can access it and benefit from it in our everyday lives currently i'm listening to the happiest man on earth by eddie jaku it's a heart-wrenching story that puts all my woes and problems into harsh perspective and there are some beautiful moments and takeaways as well i highly encourage you to check out both of these incredible stories and have a listen yourself by heading to audible.com forward slash kale or you can just text kale to 500 500 i've included the audible links in the description below so be sure to take a look i'll catch you guys soon [Music]

Channel: Kale Brock

Views: 84,146

Rating: 4.9003558 out of 5

Keywords: how to duck dive surfing, how to duck dive a longboard, how to surf, how to catch a wave, how to paddle surfing, how to pop up, how to take off surfing, kale brock, kale brock pop up, kale brock surf skate, learn surfing, learn to surf, pop up exercises, smoothstar, surf fitness, surf lesson, surf lessons beginner, surf lessons intermediate, surf skate, surfing, surfing exercises, surfing lesson, surfing tutorial, world surf league

Id: lh4tpMIWHlo

Length: 8min 37sec (517 seconds)

Published: Wed Feb 17 2021