How to Oil and Lubricate Your Gun (and how NOT to) ~ New in HD!

welcome back you know it was over three years ago that a gentleman wrote and asked me if I would produce a video on the oiling of firearms and so I did and little would I even guess that it would become the most popular of all the videos to date and I recognize that those old videos were done with old equipment I was using a camcorder tape camcorder in those days poor video quality poor audio quality so I thought I'd start to upgrade some of my older videos and in the same time incorporate the answers to some of the questions that have developed through the years this question about oiling firearms has generated far more interest than I ever would have dreamed and it has been probably one of the most controversial subjects of all and I would say that that owes to the very simple fact that there's a proliferation of information online both you know in written blogs and in YouTube and so many different sources sagas generated by a lubrication industry that has they they have they have been interested in the financial pecuniary interest in selling oil products and things what I want to do is I want to distill all this into its most simple and basic form and tell you what it is that you need to do to oil your gun and to lubricate it and what's necessary and I'm going to I'm going to base this on my own not only historical knowledge from my own life and you know I'm well into my 60s I've been I've been cleaning and lubricating and shooting guns now for over 60 years myself I have yet to have a gun deteriorate in any way shape or form all my guns have always remained exactly in the same condition when I first got them until the day I got rid of them except for the few scratches and bumps and that they receive in the process of ownership and the wear the wear and tear but when I say wear and tear I'm not talking about mechanical abrasion I'm talking about you know from banging into trees or things like that so a holster wear so I want to distill this down into its most basic understanding of what you need to do to oil and lubricate your gun oil has two principal purposes when it comes to guns and for most other things as well the first is for metal protection the preservation of the steel against deterioration from corrosion and the second one is for lubricity the lubricating of the parts to protect them and preserve them from deterioration due to a friction and wear interaction of parts I want to divide those into two separate categories and you'll see I'll present you what you need to know about each of those aspects of it and it will turn out to be basically the same oil for the same thing first of all when you purchase a firearm this day and age whether it's a actually whether to use firearm from years back or whether it's something produced currently it has been either blued historically will you be is be a blued process on the steel it'll be a stainless steel firearm it will be a phosphated surface which is typically called pakka rising and it will possibly be a black oxide surface all of those surface all those surfaces are designed to protect firearm against the corrosive elements of handling fire interacting with plant life out in the field you know and even even more aggressive attacks such as even casual contact with salts and things like that such as in your hands against your cheek whatever it is you know your body generates salt so you know it has to protect against casual contact with interaction with your own body now if you just simply buy a steel or the steel guns still guns are often thought to be very fragile that somehow they're just going to break down but if you buy a steel gun it's protected by one of those processes a blued steel gun is far more durable than most people give it credit for many of the blued steel guns that were made back in the in the you know the spanish-american war the old 3040 Craigs and some of the old Russian rifles and things made during the World War one and things they were blued and they still they still have fabulous color left and many of them in some cases were recently unpacked from you know cosmoline storage and things like that which basically preserve the minute gelatin which would preserve them from any contact from the elements but when you're talking about the old 3040 Kraig that was introduced before the turn of the 20th century now this is a firearm that has probably was stood it's well over 120 years old now and that that particular firearm anybody who finds one will note that the bluing is very high-grade and it's in terrific condition unless it was subjected to some serious you know abuse bluing is a very very high grade of protection now it's not stainless protection it's not it's not is impervious to elements of stainless steel is but let me explain what it is bluing is a it's an enhancement of a process which began back in the colonial period back way back you know during in our Revolutionary War days we used to have Browning of gun steel and that's where you get the term brown bess that was the process where a gun was a gun was purposely rusted and then progressively through one step after another at the at the manufacturing facility the gun was rusted and then the rust was polished off with stated with steel wool and then it was again rusted and then polished off with steel wool and kept going that until it built up this deep brown color that resisted any further rusting and preserved it that eventually evolved into a more sophisticated process which we know at bluing bluing is traditionally the the immersion of gun pipes into a hot bath of salt blowing salts which are designed to discolor the metal and cause it to turn blue or bluish black there are various shades depending on the composition of the salt fuse and the finishing oils which are used afterwards to set it into place well those that particular process basically provides a anti-rust surface it's a it's an oxidation of its own kind in other words that's a it's an oxidation which precludes any other type of oxidation so once it's been once it's received that type of treatment it basically deters other forms of rust it's a very very effective process a gun that had been a gun that had been glued in that form can be can expect a life that goes on into eternity I mean it can last forever the gun of that gun of that quality will not rust it will rust if it is you know if it is abraded by something and scratched it or if it is a if if faults are left on it that are not removed for instance if if your hand is faulty you know from your sweat and you candle it and you don't get that off that can be to rust because those salts will you know eat into the eat into the surface of the steel rusts salt is extremely corrosive to any steel including stainless steel so salts are the one thing that can attack it certain plants have got salt and other you know acids and things like that so contact with plant life if you're out in the field you know different tree saps and things like that can be corrosive to steel so you know blue guns are very very resistant against any metal deterioration but they have to be treated with common sense and common care and they need to be cleaned off no once they're cleaned off once they're once they're if salt gets on them if you're in a atmosphere where there's a lot of salt present or if you're a duck hunter you go out to a salt marsh and you get salty mud on the gun you've got to get that off right away posthaste because that's salt that that salt that's in the mud just a drop of that will eat away at that gun steel before you can even get home so you always have to be conscious of the fact that certain certain elements are very very highly corrosive to steels and that's why that's why plastic coatings have become very popular and ceramic coatings of that sort of been very popular in the recent years that they've been developed to add a coating which is truly impervious to thought they're not impervious to other things that for instance DEET in in bug in bug sprays that you put on your skin that can deck and break down those surfaces too so but those are a whole nother animal what I'm talking about is the the typical Steel's that you use did you see used in the making of guns so blued steel is is a highly effective method of protecting surfaces of gun steel black oxide finishing is one of the more commonplace ones now this is typically used on a stainless steel of it's a it's a form of oxidation which turns the steel black and black oxide I was using black oxide back in the 60s and 70s when I was electric later and we use black silver oxide we used to I used to plate silver on two parts that we used on military backpack radios that we use in Vietnam and you know like the threaded caps that we used on the various process would be a thread of capital a little bead chain on I used to I used to silver plate those and then treat him with black oxide and then coated them with a tumble demand meet X was the name of an oil that that finished the process and then when that oil dried up it became impervious to to any contradiction by the elements so there are different oxide processes that are very very effective and you'll see the black oxide on many new model guns with a especially with a polymer gun with a slide that's blackened that's a black oxide in most cases now there's also phosphating of surfaces which is typically known as Paco rising and that's that greenish gray coloring that you see that has kind of a satin finish and the finishes the finishes of black oxide and Paco rising are very similar in that respect they have that satin type of finish which it's rather porous on the surface and oil really its ears to it so if you put a drop of oil on those surfaces you can see the oil dock and in that area and as you wipe it along yo dock in the whole time you can wipe that right off and that oil will remain in that in that finish even if you didn't have even if you didn't have any oil whatsoever on each of those three type of surfaces whether it was blue black or Parker izing they are very very very resistant to rust the only thing that the only thing that can basically cause them to degrade is you know where the elements land on them and you know whether it's the salt from your hand or whether it's you know any plant SAP or anything like that that can get at that animal feces if you happen to store a gun where you know a mouse can deposit you know a most dropping on it that's a very very very very bad on a gun that will cause a deep pit but the one thing that will the one thing that will provide a complete barrier just as the when you when you buy a car and you get a you get a brand new car it's got a it's got a coat of paint on it that paint provides 99.9 percent of the protection with the clear coat on it and everything else that that paint by itself is 99.9 percent of the protection necessary to prevent the corrosion of that steel underneath what you do to further enhance it to keep the elements off of it in other words to keep you know rain water contains dust and things like that and if a raindrop lands on it you'll see that it will make the car dirty so you put wax on the car and the rain rolls off and beads up and rolls off and so that that dust rolls off with it well with a gun you don't use wax but you use oil now what I use this is what I recommend and this is what's consistent with every manufacturer they'll all tell you to wipe a gun down with a lightly oiled cloth they don't specify a brand of oil well with the exception of you know companies like Remington they have their REM wheel which is a product that they produce and they sell so therefore they're going to recommend REM moil but I'm going to tell you right now that notwithstanding the fact that there are different companies that recommend this that or the other thing this is what I have been using for many years it says right on mineral oil USP this is what you buy at a drugstore and you'll see it has this rather unusual term it's a laxative well it means that it is adjustable you can you can ingest this it's a completely non-toxic is tasteless as colorless it's odorless and as a matter of fact if you know manufacturers simply add a little bit of perfume and it becomes baby oil or they add a little bit a different smelling perfume and it becomes bath oil for for for the for the bathroom so these are that's the type of oil I use and this type of oil is you know a lot of people are not familiar with the fact that mineral oil is the same thing which is what the the primary component in motor oil which is put in your engine and along with the motor oil there are many different additives and no data tubes are there to enhance mileage to provide better cold-weather starting to the additives of the fa all sorts of things Under the Sun but your gun doesn't need any additives it doesn't need anything for mileage it doesn't need anything for cold weather starting it doesn't need anything like that it simply needs to have that barrier that will enhance the protection is already given by the bluing and by the oxide processing or the the phosphating of the steel with the pakka rising that's all it needs and even if it's a stainless steel gun stainless steel now is steel which is an alloy blend of chromium and perhaps nickel and other alloys and those those various other alloys that are added to the mix enhance the anti corrosion properties of the steel but it's an anti-corrosion additive it does not it does not prevent rust you can you can subject a stainless steel gun to elements that will actually rust it if it's if it's subjected to saltwater spray it will it will cause rust so you always it's always preferable to keep a light coat of oyel a film of oil on any gun so I think that my previous video was misinterpreted I do not I do not recommend a dry gun alright I not recommending a dry gun what I'm what I'm recommending is that you don't make a wet gun there's a difference between the two you don't want to have oil that you can see on the finish of a gun if you have oil that you can see on the finish of a gun you've got too much what you want to have is just the amount that's in this this cloth now what I do is I take that oil I go to the first of all I go to the fabric store where they sell fabric to make clothing and I get 100% cotton flannel this is the same type of flannel that used to make to make pajamas for for kids and stuff and I take my my grandmother's old pinking shears which makes a sawtooth edge on the edge of the fabric you can see it right here and that that prevent raveling of the fabric so I don't have those strings that keep pulling off and making a mess up getting tangled up so I just I just cut the edge with pinking shears and they'll do that at the don't do that at the fabric store for you if you want the Evitts they have a great deer Toto tell the girl what you like and I'm sure that they'll do it for you so I cut it into 20 inch squares and I fold it into quarters and I just pour on a two or three teaspoons worth of this plain USB mineral oil and I fold it up roll it up and then wring it likes to wet bathing suit tightly and that distributes the oil throughout the entire cotton and I can roll it in different directions and you know at first it looks like it's not going to distribute but it does within within an hour that will distribute throughout that entire cloth and you'll have a uniformly treated cloth with with oil in it and what you have when when you get done is oiled is a lightly oil cloth which you know there's no large amount of oil on this I I can I can wipe my I can wipe it on my hands and there's nothing that you can see I could wipe it on steel and there's nothing that you can see except for a nice shiny surface it will provide a beautiful shiny surface on the on the surface of your guns deal no matter what type of steel it is whether it glued oxide [ __ ] arised or stainless will provide beautiful surface protection from the elements and that's what it does it just basically breaks it breaks the barrier that breaks where the elements can land on the steel so it's a surface protectant you don't need to have a lot you don't need to have a you know a lot of oil does not provide a better protection against the elements than a light film just a microscopic film is all this necessary but remember that the reason why you don't need to have a lot is because the bluing by itself is the bluing or the black oxide or whatever it is is already 999 % of the job done there's a you know a lot of gun stores that I've been in my life this is a there's a huge gun store that's nearby me in me and you can go up and down the aisles one rack after another and you have all these old guns sitting there and the in the rack standing up and people come along and some of the guns have been iffy you know some of the guns have been there for a month some of them perhaps for years but some of the guns are very old they're all blue you see these old browning auto-5 news TVs old old Marlin 336 is in the you know model 94 Winchester's and in all the old Remington 700s and all that stuff the gathering dust did they're sitting there people go by and they pick them up and they rack the bolts and they they try them out they they look they look down the thighs everything and they put them back in the rack and nobody ever wiped them down and died anything to them they just sit there and they stay blue and then somebody comes along someday and picks up and says I like this when they go and buy it and all they need to do is to just simply take it home and you know take a little bit of mineral spirits with with a cloth and they wipe off whatever surface rust is evident on it from from handling but blued steel lasts remarkably long has a tremendous life so don't ever don't ever look down your nose at a blued steel gun because you know not only are they pretty but they do they do last very very well not as long as stainless steel but there was a time when stainless deal was considered kind of an ugly duckling up until about twenty years ago most people wouldn't touch it because it just it just didn't look as nice as a blue gun to them so that covers the first aspect of the oiling of a gun is the surface protection from the elements and from from handling before I leave that subject I've had people ask me what they do about long term storage well I presume that you're not in in the you know the gun trade business where you're going to be putting guns up in a warehouse for you know for for a century you know when in cakes of cosmoline I'm sure that that's not what you're referring to you're referring to keeping a gun you know from rusting while you're while you're owning it well if most people these days have a gun safe of steel guns do you steel safer or cabinet or something like that the cabinet's that are made of steel or gun safes and made of steel they can be very humid inside there's a lot of condensation which sometimes occurs because of the changing of the temperature on the outside of the safe during the different seasons and that doesn't do good things to the guns inside because they basically start condensing moisture on them just like you know just like a soda or beer can well in the summer it beads up and even though you may not see that you may not see act you know water beating up incontinent you know condensing on the outside the guns there's enough there that starts causing a lot of rust this was recognized early on back in the early 80s when gun safes became popular when people started you know actually storing their guns and safes they found out that a lot of guns were rusting because of the fact that they stored them in the safe so what I recommend is the same thing that piano the piano makers had long known for for a century before is to use a heated rod inside that safe it's popularly known as the as a golden rod that's one of the manufacturers but there's other manufacturers and basically it's a it's a hollow tube with a electrical element inside which is plugged into the walls there's a hole drilled in the safe in us and it's plugged into the wall and that provides enough heat that circulates within the cabinet and that will keep the humidity level very very low so there's no you don't have any condensation issues I've been I've had one plugged in since 1987 and unplugged it only for a few occasions while I moved my safe and it's been running ever since I've tested it on a meter that I have that can check for power consumption and it uses hardly anything it uses like barely pennies in the course of a month a couple of pennies of what it amounts to so the wattage consumption is very very low but it's enough it's a low-grade temperature that will heat the inside of the safe and keep any humidity burned off and it will stabilize it so that's one thing that you should have desiccant tins can work very well - the only problem I only problem with the desiccant in is that you know the cost factor and the nuisance fact you have to get to recharge them every so often otherwise they become saturated so you have to be charged every now and then say it remember to do that and there's the initial cost and then there's this continuing cost that goes on as you do it I'd rather just plug the thing into the wall and forget it so that's but those are the two options that you have if you're storing your gun and a wooden gun safe you wouldn't gun cabinet traditional wooden gun cabinet you really don't have to worry about that because there's no condensation issue so that's that's one of the last things that you need to worry about the most important thing is to just simply for long-term storage it's just simply wipe the gun down with a lightly oiled cloth and to put it away now when I say wipe the gun down I'm talking about all the parts as well you know take the bolt out of a bolt-action rifle or you pump or whatever it is when you take it apart you finish wiping it down and that protects the steel whether it's on the outside of the gun or the inside of the gun with the white metal pass or whatever a lot of white metal parts these days are actually stainless steel now they haven't always been but sometimes they're chrome plated and things like that but there are so many ways that gun makers have been preserving gun pots from from rusting so the most important thing is to just keep the gun very clean Carbon attracts moisture carbon you know it is hygroscopic and it will attract moisture and will and that moisture will sit there and eat away a gun so you don't want to have any carbon when you get done shooting clean the gun of any carbon fouling and get that off of there and then afterwards wipe it down with this and I don't I don't prefer to use a two-part a two-part process all in one in other words I don't like to use CLP cleaner lubricant protection I don't like to use anything which claims to both clean and lubricate at the same time I like to keep both things distinctly separate the same as when I take a bath I don't want to I don't want to be applying oil to myself when I'm taking a bath or shower I just want to just more wash so you'd want to get the oil and junk off that I've been getting on me from working with my tractor or whatever and then after I'm all done then I can put on if I want to put on you know skin balm or something like that I can do that but I don't want to I don't want to do both at the same time and the same I feel the same way about my gun I like to know that I'm getting all the junk off like the gun I like to see the metal shining bright and cleaned and then after that then I just simply wipe this on and that I know is providing all the surface protection if necessary then we go on to the lubrication aspect of oil this is really something that had become huge lately I see people doing things that amount to bathing the gun in various compounds and salt and you know all kinds of solutions and oils and everything else and I can tell you right now that's a complete myth there's absolutely no basis for that whatsoever just as gun manufacturers glued the gun or did whatever they did with the surface to protect it from deterioration they also gave you a gun when you would you bought that gun and they emblazoned their name on the side of it they want that gun to last for posterity they want that gun to last for your lifetime and for your children and your grandchildren they don't want that gun to just simply deteriorate there is there is no you know like in so many different industries in the world is so-called built-in obsolescence where you know somebody somebody built a piece of machinery that they know that four years later even three years later you're going to have to get a new one whether it's a computer or whatever it is there's built-in obsolescence in the cars and things like that because guns kind of standalone as being the one thing that there is no built-in obsolescence sometimes somebody comes up with a little bit better idea with a gun but you know the the fact of the matter is is that guns simply don't have an obsolete built into them they're designed and engineered so that they can be used literally forever you know I have I have guns that are over 80 years old that look like they're brand-new maybe the blowing is a little bit thin from where the you know handler through the years carried it in his hand or maybe the maybe the stock finishes is banged up things like that the checkering is worn down and everything in the sights the sites may be getting a little bit bright and need to be redacted but the guns still work the same as they worked the day they were built just as smoothly just as slickly nothing has changed with the headspace nothing has changed with anything whatsoever I've got you know I've got a grand that was built in the World War 2 era that it's had a couple of it's had a couple of it's had a new barrel put on because the first barrel naturally with a corrode was probably shot a lot with corrosive ammo and so the barrel had to be replaced things like that but the gun the receiver has never worn out the receiver that was made in the Springfield Armory and that's not the Springfield Armory that's the commercial company that's in Illinois that's the US armory at Springfield Massachusetts that was founded under George Washington and was later closed in 1964 by Secretary of Defense Robert McNamara so that's an entirely different industry but that receiver after being shot perhaps thousands and thousands of times the receiver is still the same got the same [ __ ] arising on it there's had from the very beginning before the cmp got ahold of it so guns are made to last forever you don't need to worry about parts eroding and deteriorating from from where from interaction when when gun parts are made they made with alloys that are very very hard they may be they may be hammer forged or they may be investment cast and let me say this about investment casting it's every bit as it's every bit as hard and durable and in some cases harder and more durable than then so-called milspec hammer forging him forging and wonderful hammer forging is you know view in in many industries and it's very effective for providing tough durable Steel's whether it's the tools or for guns or whatever but that does not mean the cast investment cast parts are inferior to them investment cast parts of being found to be greatly superior to other steels in many ways when you fly from coast to coast or across the ocean you know if you fly to you know to Europe or Hawaii or wherever you want to go the big fans of those GE jets that are spinning at high rpm for thousands of rpms going across the ocean those are investment cast fans now that that's got to tell you like they talk about centrifugal force constantly pulling it at that metal to shatter they don't those those thin turn forever and those are investment cast and so don't ever think that investment casting automatically means it's like your old grandmother's you know the pot handles on her kitchenware it's not the same thing at all this is not this is not cheap white pop metal this is the high-grade steel which is poured into what's called the lost wax process so they're very hard product whether their investment cast or whether they're Hamma forged and the alloys are terrifically hard and furthermore in many cases parts are subject to known you know where issues are further heat treated so you know you have ar-15s which have specially hardened receivers that you can't you can't even stamp a number into a the side of a good ar-15 or or an m16 because the the metal is so hard these are impervious to wear beyond most people's imagining and sometimes people confuse what they see if they see the brightening of they see the brightening of parts where they rub together where there you know there's a interaction of two parts such as the bolt carrier on an ar-15 that hits the histor hammer on its way back and Khatri [ __ ] to him or while they see the interaction of the hammer and fear with a where they rub together and everything and they see a brightening of those parts and they they deduce from that that it's galling of them the steals and it's not galling at all darling is an entirely different thing galling is where the metal actually if you look under a microscope sometimes you can see it with your naked eye it actually peels up like like orange peel and rolls up and sometimes it scrapes and it makes these gouges that's that galling I've never seen Garlin on a high grade gun I've seen galling on some guns that were made of inferior metals that were you know they big they're known for they're known for their lack of quality simply because they're not reliable and things like that and that's why they're not reliable because they're not high grade guns but I'm not speaking of I don't I don't substitute lubrication for a high grade gun I buy a high grade gun that I'll have to worry about lubrication if you have a high grade gun the parts of the possible burnished together in other words parts in in the armors trade in the gun makers trade to call marrying apart so in other words the slide of a 1911 and the grip frame of the 1911 will marry together and they will burnish and they will become they will each become bright and they become more glossy and those parts will ride together better and better and better as time goes on but the past don't become smaller and the gaps don't become wider and there's nothing that gall you're not going to find little balls of metal rolling up and causing you know deep gouges and if you do have that sort of thing I can guarantee you've got cheap Steel's going on there and that's that's an entirely different thing and I'm not addressing cheap guns because I'm addressing guns which are properly made if your gun requires an oil sump to keep it going before the gun break down into Cary's that's not what's called hi great guns deal so and I'm not here to attack you know the smaller you know independent gun makers that are using you tighter grades of steel and things like that has that's not my business what I am saying is that a good high grade guns deal will not deteriorate from rubbing together the amount of oil is necessary to protect those parts as I stated so many times in the past if you've got a hammer that's rotating on a pin in the receiver or in the frame of a handgun such as a Smith & Wesson handgun one drop of oil one small drop of oil on that pin with the hammer rotating on it that hammer will rotate on that pin forever and ever and ever on that drop of oil and you don't need to keep on you know two drops of oil is not helpful three drops of oil is harmful what happens is when you add more oil you're attracting more dirt you're attracting carbon and you're attracting elements that will mix with that oil and create an abrasive paste and eventually start eating away at the SDS deal so you know you only you only want to use a drop of oil then you want to wipe it off you know don't just put the two parts together and then put a drop there so you can see the oil slosh around with the two parts that's not what I'm driving at I'm talking about putting a drop of oil on there and wiping it out taking a q-tip and wiping off the oil afterwards and then put them back together that's all the oil is necessary if you can do it with the oily cloths that's all that's necessary this is the same amount of oil that I recommend for lubricating the slide on your on your guns the bolts on your rifles no matter what they are if you if you look at a if you look at parts on certain on certain guns for instance the cam pin on the bolt and the bolt carrier on a m16 or an ar-15 that cam pin can occasionally get beat and it can start showing some brightness and it almost looks as if it's starting to get a little bit flat and on some spots well first of all it's a low price pot you can replace those and a half beat very very low money so it's not like it's not like it's a great loss you don't have to you don't have to apply a squirt of oil to that pot to protect it first of all what you're the wear that you're seeing is impact where it's not abrasion where it's impact where and high-grade steel that's made of high-grade alloy won't get battered and won't deteriorate if you if you're finding that you've got a pin a camp in for instance in that gun that's being battered and beat up try a different manufacturers pin it might be made of a higher grade steel because I've I've had a ar-15s and I've end and I've done an awful lot of work with government m16 as a police armor and my experience is in a mill in the military and I have never seen those pins get beat up and deteriorate like I do with some of the pins that are offered on the market so there's differences and you know not all not all ten pins are created equal you'll see on many 14s for instance now many 14 I think that a mini 14 bolt cycling is more violent on more surfaces than the ar-15 platform the m16 platform has got a rotating bolt within the carrier and that in that that cam pin is rotating there's only a couple of places there's only a couple of contact surfaces where there's both rear would thrust and rotational torque at the same time but with the mini-14 Bolton the garand Bolton the m14 bolt those have got many different surfaces that are interacting and not only rotational torque at the same time as rear would thrust you have you have a lot of forces going I think it's a more violent system all together well this is what this is what if I can find this what Ruger has to say about the oiling of their mini-14 now this is this is directly from their own publication and you can see right here this is this is for the various theories of ranch rifles and many fourteens on page 34 of this particular manual says here note capital letters note : only a light application of oil is needed to provide adequate lubrication of moving parts and to prevent rust excess accumulations of oil tend to attract particles of dust and dirt and may congealed in cold weather which can interfere with the safe and reliable function of the rifle now the speaking of a gun which they have built they know very well what keeps it ticking and like I say it's probably one of the more violent bolt interactions in the in the entire gun world it comes flamming back at a very very vigorous rate nobody will ever argue that a mini-14 is perhaps one of the most reliable guns that was ever made and that's that's the only that's the only lubrication that they recommend now there are there are old TM manual you know the and FM manuals the field maintenance manual technical maintenance manuals that field maintenance manual that's where they get those terms from this is this is from US government publications headquarters Department of the army May of 1965 is when this was published now I want to put this into context May of 1965 this was this was following the beginning of the Vietnam era this is no we entered the Vietnam era roughly 1964-65 this is this is being published knowing what had already gone on when the m14 would being used and sometimes even garand were being you in Vietnam in the early years but this is what was known information to have gathered from World War two from going across Europe in mud and freezing weather in all those things in Korea where you had the same extreme conditions and in a few cases in Vietnam for all and all the different theaters in the world a light coat of oil should be placed on all metal parts except those which come in contact with ammunition that's all you do that's all you do now if you go down to the section B it says it talks about applying a grease in small amounts to certain processes as indicated in Figure 33 on a couple of pages before that and those are the parts which as on a mini 14 bolt it would be the the contact points where the operating rod cycles the bolt back it would be the lugs on the bolt itself and it would be on the slide rails on the receiver well this is this is my this is my take on it rugers manual is newer Ruger has got more updated information based on experience that has gone by now if you read further I don't like it's just like reading the Bible you can't read it out of context you don't want to just read that and go and stop there you want to go farther it says rifle grease is not used in extremely cold temperatures or when the rifle is exposed to extremes of sand and dust well whoever the whoever the person was at headquarters at the Pentagon who wrote this who wears a you know National Defense ribbon but doesn't have any combat ribbons he doesn't understand perhaps that the very definition of combat is sand and dust mud dirt rain sleet snow all those other things so what he was describing here is rifle Greece is not used in extremely cold temperatures so you don't use it in Korea while going across Europe or when the rifle is exposed to extremes of sand and dust oh you don't use it in the desert or when you're going you know into battle in in Iraq or anything like that so you know there are only there are only a few clinical examples where you would be shooting a gun where you're not exposing it to sand and dust and extreme cold and things like that that's very nice if you're sitting you know if you're operating a gun at nothing more than a range where you've got a covered top and nothing is nothing is landing on you and you're not scurrying around in the dirt doing combat maneuvers so what it means is is that you know you can use that you can use that grease if you desire to put on those points of contact on the on the bolts but Ruger's information tell you contrary to that dip perfectly satisfied with the fact that a light application of oil just wiped down with a light application of oil is sufficient to protect the price now I own a mini 14 and I fired Thailand around our department had a c5 five sixes which was the selective fire version of the mini 14 which had you know it had a three three shot burst and had full automatic capability and I'm telling you we pour DMO through those things a lot and at a high rate enduring during practice sessions and we never had any issues whatsoever with any deterioration of any parts whatsoever and we never ever ever applied greases or or heavy application of oil this was all that we ever did with just a light a light coat of oil so that speaks for all the other guns on the planet if you can if you can get by with a light application of oil as the Ruger manual specifies for the mini-14 that certainly is going to suffice and then some for the bolt action fan who just simply racks it bolt forward once it once at a time and the gun is not exposed to any extremes so you don't need to have you don't have to have an oil sump to no oil pump built into your gun you don't have to have oil flowing as if it's machinery or anything like that you're not operating at a high cyclic rate let me differentiate between the the perception of heat that people talk about sometimes I get people right in and they say well they've got and develops a lot of heat so there's an that deteriorating the gun the heat that they're experiencing is the heat from the combustion of the the conference in other words the just before the chamber that that steel is getting extremely hot from the combustion of the conference that is not the heat that's able to deteriorate any parts in your gun behind the contras your hammer your trigger mechanism your bolt and all that stuff remain extremely cool in comparison to the temperatures that a forward of the chamber and in your barrel so there's no there's no concern whatsoever that there's any heat destructive heat that's present in the receiver of any gun whether the handgun or a rifle there is no such thing as destructive heat and there's no such thing there's only two causes of there's only two causes of deterioration of parts but through friction one is friction that causes the efficient heat to break down the steel which is not apparent in any of the parts and the lower receiver of a AR or a mini-14 or anything like that certainly not apparent in any anything that so docile is a bolt-action rifle and the other the other one is through rubbing which which causes abrasion now those Proctor extremely hard to prevent abrasion they be hard in the past so they can be rubbed together at high high frictional coefficient without breaking down the surfaces and without going there's one other there's one other aspect which is impact in other words with parts actually into one another and you'll see certain you'll see certain guns where that the hammer for instance will impact the camming surface with him hammer over mini-14 or on an ar-15 will you know interact with the returning carrier on an ar-15 or the returning bolt on a mini-14 those are those are impact points and you might see a slight flattening at those corners where that occurs and that's not something to concern yourself with death flattening is not is not an issue that's going to destroy the gun and it will basically reach a certain point where it just stops it'll it'll buff a little bit of a corner off that that that hammer and or maybe off of the off of the bolt and that's where it will remain please don't concern yourself about lubrication again this is all you need that and your inexpensive mineral oil I like to keep things simple too many things on our world are getting complicated we don't need to you know we've got a good we've got a new president-elect who's going to try to simplify government well I'm trying to simplify guns we've got a we've got a good situation going here now what we don't have to worry about our Second Amendment rights into the foreseeable future because we've got a pret a present electrical kind of protect us from that but I don't want you to worry about that when you get a gun what you can do to protect it from corroding or eroding it's not going to do any of the sort its it made to last forever gun makers are really proud of the product and they don't want to have the gun you know just deteriorate and and fall apart on you there's a couple of there's a couple of things that I want to address in particular with regard to lubrication CLP is if you like to use CLP I think they're extremely expensive they don't do anything the district that this this will do everything the CLP will do this will do the lubricating and protecting parts so it does it does the lubricating and and protecting the cleaning part I do with solvent that's entirely separate process I don't like - I don't like to try to lubricate a gun and clean a gun at the same time the contradictory processes I liked it I like to just simply clean the gun up get a sparkly clean and then lubricate it so that's that's one product and you know if you can eliminate that from your checkbook we did this this is like a couple of dollars and that'll last me for most of my lifetime so that's one of the things that I can write off in my checkbook the other thing is wd-40 now I'm not I'm not castigating the the product the product is wonderful for in so far is it's a good product for many things in this world I have I go through three or four cans of wd-40 in the course of a year for other things for like taking labels off of you know jars or something more for four different types of you know metal protection but when I was in Vietnam we received a technical bulletin that alerted us that wd-40 should never ever ever come in contact with the a with the m16 especially with the magazines and the mo the American Red Cross they gave us these beautiful care packages that had everything in it that you know we needed for you know basically the kind of help morale even Dave and packed with little pack of cigarettes in there and everything else for everybody smoked in those days but these care packages contained a small squirt can of aerosol can of wd-40 and unfortunately when they first started issuing these the troops were army and Marines and Navy guys they were squirting this stuff on their magazines and their guns in the hopes of keeping you know the elements off of their rifles and unfortunately there was some very bad situations where guns were inoperative because that highly penetrating lubricant got into the ammo and the primaries wouldn't go off and so basically guide were filled with best with magazines that didn't that didn't fire it was a catastrophe when the military discovered this they issued an alert and a bulletin was posted on all the orderly room bulletin boards never to use the stuff on guns you could use it on you know you could use it on anything else you are you could use it on the locks on your the hasp on your footlocker or anything else but don't use it on your guns and whatever you do don't use it where it's going to run into your ammo so don't ever use wd-40 on your guns there's so many other products and like I say this will this will do it all graphite I get people ask me what about dry lubricants because if you know if wet lubricants attract dust why not use a dry lubricant well dry lubricant son they've been around for a long time you know this is nothing new on the scene mold makers and things like that have been using dry lubricants as release agents for for molding products and stuff most of them are paraffin based with some sort of a vehicle which carries it on you know and then evaporation and leaves the paraffin so it might be an acetone or an alcohol or something like that some highly volatile carrier that it places the paraffin on but it leaves a waxy substance on your gun well I'm not interested in having wax on my gun like a you know old linoleum floor so that's what I think can build up in a can cause problems of its own it can and that can cause deck and deck and buildup into corners where it could actually prevent operation correct operation of a gun because it can it can move around the other thing I get questions about why not use graphite because graphite is thought to be by many people a good lubricant well it has a lubricating it has a lubricating quality to it but Smith & Wesson discovered way back before the 70s they discovered way back in the 50s they were getting a lot of parts back from people guns back well I should say and when they inspected them they found out that people were squirting locksmith graphite inside the guns and the graphite was wearing the color case hardening off of the hammers and the triggers and things like that and it was building up in places and the recoil block inside there were all kinds of dudes all kinds of things that was causing where the pins depends on those guns inside the inside the frame of the disinvesting Western those pins were wearing down to wear down a pin on a Smith & Wesson is a very bad thing because it means having the gun rebuilt again graphite was found to be abrasive in other words they had an abrasive quality people people sometimes say well what about the fact that you know locksmiths recommend it well my locksmith he's a trained locksmith been doing it for 40 years and he says that the last thing he ever wants to see an old lock is graphite because he has so many locks that he has to repair because graphite had ruined the pins has caked up inside the pins where the springs are in the tumblers and all this stuff he says Graphite's a horror show when he sees it inside of a lock so he won't even sullenness in as a hardware store and that's that's what law that's what locksmiths many of them feel about graphite you really don't need to have any kind of dry lubricant and a gun the hard surfaces of lubrication enough those hard surfaces are very very hard and those those hammers and triggers will swing on those pins without any effort without any abrasion whatsoever and most of the most of the guns that have made you know they have they have linear they have linear travel in other words it's in one it's in one direction and there's no there's no force of the no force of interaction in other words the slide over the slide of a 1911 comes straight back in a straight line the parts glide together there's no there's no rotational force around corners that will will basically bear into the into the metal services and wherever gun makers run into those rotational forces like on cams and things like that where linear forces are transferred into rotational forces and everything they hide in the parts they greatly they take great effort to make sure that those parts can can interact and can correspond to one another for a great number of years many for teams that have been around since the very earliest days where the where the operating handle cycles against the bolt they just last forever they don't wear out that those cast parts are so hard they've did diamond hard and they don't wear oh I think I've covered everything that I can I just want you to remember that your gun is not going to wear away and and it's not going to disappear on you it's not going to rust up a pot and it's not going to wear apart you just want to just keep it clean you know clean it as often as you fire it clean it and then wipe it down with this lightly oiled cloth like I say that it's not saturated with oil it's just a like lightly oil cloth and then store that cloth where it won't get dirty and pick up dirt particles dortmund in a ziplock large bag like this and that's all you need to do so I appreciate you watching please continue to watch my other videos and subscribe thanks for watching god bless

Channel: GunBlue490

Views: 284,269

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Id: o8-MPsV2Wrg

Length: 60min 26sec (3626 seconds)

Published: Tue Jan 03 2017