How to Make River Charcuterie Boards

hi everyone mike from northern ridge designs here again and in this video i'm going to share most of the process i went through to create six epoxy river charcuterie boards i've made some river tables before but this was the first attempt at making multiple boards at one time i used two different brands of epoxy and two different finishes as you can see here the boards came out great but i definitely made some mistakes along the way that affected efficiency and i'll be sharing those with you as well if you're planning on creating a riverboard or even a few at once hopefully you'll find this video helpful let's get started [Music] all right we are working with some walnut here we plane both sides which turns out to be our first mistake in the future for efficiency reasons i'm just going to plane one side the side that will be going face down in the mold because the whole charcuterie board ends up getting planed anyways once it's been poured so here we are sending it through wasted a little bit of time here also make sure you welcome back cousin eddie making a reappearance cutting the boards into workable chunks now we thought we were going to do smaller forms but then we decided hey we'll just put all the boards together so really that was our second problem with efficiency we should have just left the boards intact and ripped them down the center here we've made the form use block it tape i'm mixing up some quick coat of epoxy to seal the edges as you saw there it was kind of like a brown color it'd been affected by the uv it was kind of some older epoxy i had does not affect the epoxy whatsoever you just wouldn't want to use it anywhere where you were going to be you know you wanted the epoxy shown i'm just using it to seal the edges you will not see the epoxy at all but again it's still very strong i'm using the quick coat to seal the edges as well as glue the pieces down to the top the blocket tape now it seems counterproductive that you want to glue them down but they're going to be glued down well enough to hold once we do the river pour but not so bad that i'm unable to release them from the form so here we're mixing up a second batch for the other side i'm going to be doing six as you can see here the six different chunks six different epoxy river tables on the left hand side we'll be doing stone countertop epoxy and on the right side we'll be doing total boat epoxy so i'm using stone coke quick coat though to seal both sets of river boards gluing them down i'm going to wait 24 hours come back and sand the edges here we go sanding the edges using 220 that's all you need to do just rough them up a little bit let me use the air gun to get that dust that i created out of there and then we're ready to pour our casting epoxy to make the rivers okay as i said we're using two different types of epoxy total boat thick set this was actually sent to me by total boat epoxy so thank you for sending that to me i'm going to try it out see how it went it's kind of an experimental thing for me i've never used it before i'm also using stone coat casting epoxy which i have used in the past and works out really well so starting out here with the stone coat that is up first we mixed in some ocean blue metallic flakes to get our blue color and i'm pouring a quarter inch at a time and then torching i'd pour another quarter inch or so and torch the boards overall just under three quarters of an inch thick now you can see the gaps along the edges that was kind of a problem of me cutting these walnut boards into shorter lengths again i thought we were going to use smaller forms we ended up just doing the larger form so i'm having to fill those gaps ahead of time and use some epoxy back there because i know it's going to leak through and end up on the edges of the board and we bring my river down so i'm trying to fill those ahead of time and make sure we have everything filled up and it's not i'm not gonna have any surprises when i come back 24 hours later and my river has shrunk down too shallow so again torching to make sure we get the bubbles out as we go had a little issue with the table not being totally level it wasn't quite perfect as you can see the epoxy is starting to leak to one side that's what happens when you don't have your table perfectly level to a certain extent it's going to be fine i'm trying to over pour a little bit in the river because as the epoxy cures it is going to shrink a little bit this casting epoxy so if you're quite a ways under the edge and then you let it cure you're going to be even shallower so trying to get it right up to the edge i'm just using a paint stick to kind of move it around you can see some swirls starting to form which is nice it's going to be a great look but in the end after 24 hours or so it's going to change here we're pouring our total boat epoxy we used ocean blue metallic and tropical turquoise to make these two colors and as we're pouring here you can see that they're going to meet up in the middle it's really neat i've never done this before with two different colors so we're just kind of pouring against each other and talking as far as you know who needs to pour harder to try to keep that line in the middle we were thinking we'd have one blue board one green board and then one board that was kind of a mixture of the two now i did some miscalculating here when i converted the cubic inches to ounces i thought i had enough epoxy but it turned out the green board on the left was a little longer than the blue board on the right so when i split the epoxy in half i ended up not having quite enough green and as you're going to see towards the end here the blue sort of starts to spill over towards the green side on the left here i'm just kind of playing around seeing what happens this is kind of a look and overview of the epoxy once it has moved all around you can see the blue has kind of made its all the way down to the green here i'm pulling the forms off it really popped out pretty easily both types the total boat epoxy as well as a stone coat countertop epoxy i'm just going to rough cut these get them pretty close that they're a little more manageable so i can send them through the planer so this 13 inch planer makes pretty quick work of the wooden epoxy then i'm going to buzz off the edges using the table saw clean those up start to make something that's pretty square just shaving off that excess epoxy that i had poured on the in the forms once i've done that then i can get a nice square cut on the miter saw okay so you can see the planer lines left behind there so i'm just using 60 grit sandpaper to one knock out those lines and two try to reveal any sort of flaw that needs to be filled any sort of hole or crack first i'm going to try to attack those with some epoxy i'm going to mix up some quick coat along with some black dye and use that to fill some of the voids so here we're using that same stone coat countertop quick coat epoxy that i used to seal the edges before we put them into the mold and i'm just adding literally two drops of black dye this stuff goes a long ways i'll put the a link to it in the description and i'm going to use that to fill all these little voids these little worm holes and bug holes and that sort of thing and that naturally occurred in the wood now the problem here is you can't get this stuff very thin so it will fill the void but you're left with a lot of excess that needs to be sanded off or in my case i'm going to use a grinding wheel to get the big chunks off luckily i'm a bad welder so i'm pretty good with the grinder and i'm pretty surgical there so i'm able to get real close to the wood without dishing out the wood at all to remove those grinder lines just hit it again with some 60 grit sandpaper now here i found this new product to me which just works awesome star bomb medium thick black filler thin enough that it goes in the little nooks and crannies and then you hit it with the accelerator and literally within like 10 seconds it's rock hard and you can sand it so that was a game changer and i use that instead of the epoxy for the rest of the holes here i'm going to sand my way up to 220 and i'm not going to go past 220 which will probably offend some people but really for what i'm doing here i'm going to do two types of finishes one is an oil and wax as you can see me putting in here i'm using a white scotch brite to buff that in i'm also going to use rubio monocoat which they don't even suggest going up to 220 for rubio i wanted to do both the total boat epoxy as well as the stone coat epoxy charcuterie boards with different finishes and see how it it turned out so here we're getting a look at the oil and wax buffed in with a white scotch brite i'm very happy with how it went plus going up to just 220 these boards are going to be used so if i were to to try to get up to like a 2000 or 3000 or 4000 grit sanding it's just i don't think it's going to hold up that long but it's experimentation so i'm trying to learn as we go so here we have the total boat thick set epoxy river boards and mixing up some rubio monocoque this stuff is a three to one i'm putting in the the base and then the hardener which is the clear stuff okay i'm gonna mix this stuff up really well you don't need a lot of this it goes a long ways a little bit goes a long way so as you can see there i just had like maybe a couple ounces to do both sides of all three boards and this is where i made my third mistake and decided to use the buffing wheel on these small little projects and ruined a shirt and flung rubio monaco everywhere so i'd use it in the past and i just hand buffed it i don't know what i was thinking i should have just hand buffed it with the white scotch brite anyways we got them done and it turned into a beautiful finish i like it probably a little more than the just oil and wax but i guess in the end for the for the customer they're going to be able to re-coat with the same oil and wax anytime they want that i used with the rubio monocoat once it starts to wear off that's not really something a typical homeowner is going to probably reapply so although it is a much tougher product so here we're looking at the stone coat countertop epoxy boards finished with the butcher block oil and wax and they just turned out very very bright blue i think the color pops really well and then one final look at both boards side by side not a ton of difference between the finish i think both epoxies worked very well the total boat epoxy and the stone coat countertop epoxy i would use total boat epoxy again it was pretty user friendly it was a little thinner i think than the stone coat countertop but really i don't think that matters in fact it might even be better because it's able to get into the little grooves a little easier so the colors are just awesome i think i ended up with a little more character out of the epoxy once it cured i didn't swirl that that total boat epoxy that you're seeing there it just naturally happened that way all right hopefully you found this video helpful make sure you check us out on instagram facebook northernridgedesigns.com if you have any questions or comments leave those below i love reading through those don't forget to pound that subscribe button and hit that little notification bell so that you are up to date on any new videos that we release thanks for watching

Channel: Northern Ridge Designs

Views: 10,898

Keywords: charcuterie board, river table, epoxy, river charcuterie board, epoxy river, serving tray, epoxy board, how to, walnut, walnut charcuterie board, blue river, green river, resin board, live edge board, wood and epoxy board, wood and epoxy, casting epoxy, quick coat epoxy, rubio monocoat, stonecoat countertops, star bond adhesives, total boat epoxy

Id: NifL_-3-GGY

Length: 12min 52sec (772 seconds)

Published: Sun Aug 01 2021