How to Make DRAGONSLAYER from Berserk out of Foam! Only weighs 5 Pounds - Guts - Free PDF Templates

welcome back to the shop my friends Steve here at  SKS props and in today's build video I've got one   of the largest and craziest builds I've ever  put together it's guts's dragon slayer sword   from berserk now I absolutely love the berserk  series it's dark fantasy all the characters and   the weapons are iconic and they're over the top  now this particular sword is a little over 6 fet   but because it's all made out of foam it's a  little over 5 lb which is fantastic for its   scale you could actually take this around to  a convention all day and it is Con now with a   sword like this of course there's a lot that goes  into it and I'm not going to say that this is one   of the easiest builds that I've put out there  because it just isn't the amount of angles that   you have to put together on this scale makes  it a difficult build even though the overall   weapon design is fairly simplistic now to help  you out I do have this build video and I have   free PDF files available over on my website  that you can download in case you would like   to make your own so if you remember back to my  templates video I told you that when I start a   new project I I look and see what other makers  have done and a lot of people have made this   particular sword so I scoured the internet to see  what everyone else had done to put it together   what kind of pitfalls they had what worked what  didn't and then came up with my own version of   it and that's very important there's no point in  starting from scratch if you can learn from other   people's mistakes if you want to build this sword  or any of my projects and support this Channel at   the same time be sure to buy some of my HD foam  from Blick Art Materials if you go through the   links that are in the description section and  those that are on my website it helps support   me which means I get to continue to make awesome  things like this give you free PDF files we know   that's the big one and show you how to put it all  together so I want to show you what it takes to   put guts's dragon slayer sword together and give  it this insane blood texture let's go ahead and   get started I start off by printing out the  template that I created in Photoshop so I can   make sure that I got the size and the scale  correct for this build you're going to need   two sheets of 10 mm foam and a little little bit  of six part A is going to make up the main body   of the sword I can remove the main body of the  template from the edges since I'm going to work   on this first using some one two three blocks as  paper weights I trace around the template with a pencil and just to make sure that  I got my lines correct I also use a   straight edge I cut a rough shape of the  main body using a well-sharpened blade I'm then going to take this piece  and Trace around it and cut out   the other half these two sections are  going to be tacked together with some   Bob Smith super glue that way when I  cut it out both pieces are going to be identical the main support structure for  this blade is going to be a 1in PVC pipe   now there are different internal wall  thick thicknesses so I made sure to get   the schedule 40 450 PSI the pipe is cut to  approximately 70 in this should be enough   to run up the length of the blade while  still having plenty for the handle because   the pipe is going to be glued into place  I'll rough up the surface with a sanding sponge I can now take my  knife and cut apart the two halves I'll then Mark the middle of the blade  showing exactly where the PVC pipe needs to be attached weldwood contact cement is going  to be used to adhere the PVC pipe into place and at this point I'm very careful  to make sure that the handle lines up just right Part B is a height template  this is going to be used to cut   strips that will run along the PVC pipe  and along the perimeter these strips are   going to be cut out of 10 mm foam  and will be approximately 55 in Long here you can see how they're going to make up   a box for the interior of the blade  first off I'm going to adher strips   to either side of the PVC pipe using some  contact cement and a little bit of super glue I start at the end of the PVC pipe at the  top of the blade and then slowly work my way down at this point I'm just adhering the bottom   after they're in place I can then  go back and add adhesive to the interior then using a long straight edge I  could add equal pressure to the entire strip i' like a flat Edge to the exposed  PVC pipe that way it'd be easier to adhere   to the other half so I glued a thin strip  of 2 mm foam to the pipe using some super glue for the very tip of the blade I marked the   strips where they need to be cut  so they line up for the perfect angle these pieces were then glued  together and I could check for fit once I determined it was all good  I could then Mark the sides that needed   to be cut this is where the other long  strips are going to butt up to along the perimeter this section can then be glued  into place along with the other 10 mm strips I also cut an additional support strip for the top   of the PVC pipe this was all just done by  eyeballing the angles that needed to be cut and then after I made sure that it  would fit I could glue it into place for the rafting on the interior of the blade  additional pieces are cut from the 10 mm strips   these are marked and cut at different sizes since  the blade is wider at the base than it is at the top I didn't really measure out the spacing of  these I just kind of put one about every 4 in with the interior structure of the blade  done I can now glue the other half to the top I had to make sure that this piece lined up   pretty good otherwise if I was off  the whole blade could look misshapen   so starting at the top I slowly worked  my way down the blade to the very end to keep the weight down I wanted the edges  of the blade to be Hollow this would require   cutting strips of 10 mm foam with a 60° angle  on top and a 20° angle on the bottom with these   cuts it would create the perfect triangle  for the blad's edge now there are two ways   to accomplish these Cuts number one if you have a  band saw you could tilt the table easily for the 20° but then you're going to have to make  a jig of some kind to get the angle up to   60° on the other end which is what I  did here the other way if you notice   my template I had faint lines at  the top and the bottom of these pieces start by doing a general  cut angle to remove most of the foam then you can easily go back and refine  this shape down to that line with your rotary tool it's going to take some time  but it's a lot easier and cleaner   than if you had to send the whole  Edge down from multiple strips of foam with my strips cut I can now heat seal where  the adhesive is going to go this is going to   create a stronger Bond once again I'm using well  wood contact cement along the 60° angle at the top after the contact CIT is dry to  also add a little bit of super glue   this double adhesive method is my way  to make sure that this seam won't ever   split the top edge of the foam can  then be pressed together making a triangle this process can then be repeated  for the blade Edge on the opposite side notice that I have a one two three Block   in between the two pieces so  they don't stick together by accident and you can see here how the edges  of the blade will attach to the main body before I can attach these I want to reinforce  the interior by using Part D to cut out a bunch of triangles I then marked placement of the  triangles at approximately every 3 in these triangles can then be  glued into place using some superglue to make sure that I could line the  edges of the blade up with the body precisely   I cut out a small section of each triangle this  will allow for a little bit of flex while being   glued into place I don't know that it really  mattered but I'm building this as I go so it's   always a learning process before I attach the  sides I want to make sure that the point of the   blade is glued on first using part E I cut some  additional strips of 10 mm foam just like the   edges these pieces are glued together to create  a triangle but it's a little bit smaller than the sides from here I can take my templ split  and draw out the angles that needed to be cut and just like the edges I glued some  structural triangles inside but these do   need to be a little bit smaller I could then  cut the foam and see how the pieces lined up together I heat seal these cuts and then using   more contact cement I could  then glue these two halves together now in doing this take your time and  make sure that all of these pieces line up just right with the top section assembled I can  now attach it to the main body of the blade   here I'm using superglue because I want it to  set quick and I'm only working one side at a time and the great thing about foam is that   you can kind of push and pull it  to get it to fit exactly how you need I sand away any additional super  glue that might have leaked out and   here you can see the tip of the sword is looking great now I can take the long strips and cut  the angle that I need that will match up to   the part e pieces and this is why I recommend  to have pieces longer than necessary so if you   mess up one of the angles you have more  material to play around with then you'll   have a bunch of excess material at the very  bottom of the blade where you can cut that   flush contact cement is once again going  to be used to adhere the edges to the main body and to make sure that it doesn't stick  before I want it to I lay a piece of craft   paper along the bottom this is going to help  me allow to focus on just the top Edge for now and starting at the the tip I  then slowly work my way down the   blade matching the very top of the edge up to the body and here you can see the excess  foam that I have at the bottom that   I'm going to trim away later on but  with a complex shape like that it's   always good to have too much then not  enough I can then remove the craft paper   apply some super glue and then work my  way down this part of the edge as well and to make sure that the foam is firmly  pressed together I use the side of a permanent marker now when gluing all these sections  together the angles are tricky so if they   don't perfectly align especially at the top  don't worry about it you can always sand it   flush with a rotary tool later on after it's been  attached in worst case scenario you could always   add some battle damage and blood to cover it  up here I am still working down the opposite   side and always Safety First whenever I heat the  foam or use contact cement I'm always wearing my respirator and here's an up close detail shot of   me pressing the two pieces together with  the angles cut they line up just right now it's time to soften and clean up all  the seams using my rotary tool and a sanding sponge before I cut away the excess material  at the bottom I first need to cap it that way   when it is cut it looks like a solid piece to do  this I'm just going to glue another triangle into place then I can mark with a pencil  straight across the foam exactly   where it needs to be cut and here you  can see after it's been cut there's   a little sliver of that triangle left  but the bottom of the edge looks pretty solid now it's time to work on the detail guard  at the base of the blade this will be made up of   Parts f g and H Part F will be made out of two  pieces of 10 mm foam just like the main section   of the blade I'm going to glue these together and  then cut them out so they're identical on either side Parts G and H will be cut out of  6 mm foam and because they all have the   same shape I decided to glue them together  make a foam sandwich and cut them all out at   the same time I can then cut all the individual  sections apart and have my pieces ready ready to go the bottom of Part F is cut at  a 45° angle this will allow it to   match up to part I later on the bottoms  of part G and H will also be cut at a 45° angle Parts G and H are cut out of  the same piece of foam I can then do   a rough cut and clean up the interior  and exterior edges using my rotary tool part G can then be super glued to Part F  lining up these pieces all the way around the exterior after marking placement part  H can then be glued to the middle and here you can see how the 45°  cut lines up at the bottom of the   piece I can then Mark placement with a  pencil and glue it to the base of the sword part I is going to continue  the guard d tail at the bottom and   it will be cut out of 10 mm foam the  two longest edges will be cut at 45° angles Parts J and part K will be cut out of 6 mm   foam and refer to the template  to see the 45° cuts on them as well to remove the holes in the middle  the foam pieces I'm going to start by   using a forcer bit but you could also just  rough cut this with a hobby knife after the   hole had been made I can then get it to the  exact size and clean it up with my rotary tool part I was checked for fit  and once I determined it was okay   I could then glue it to the bottom  of the Guard matching up all of the angles the same process was then applied to Parts J and K this guard has a slight angle angle at the   bottom I mark this with a pencil and  then remove the foam using my rotary tool there was a very slight imperfection  so I decided to use some Gap filler I've   never used this compound before but it  seemed to work okay normally I'll just   use Quick seal with this compound you put it  on smooth it out with water and allow it to dry you could then go in and sand it  smooth with a sanding sponge the same   process is very similar to how foam  clay works on seams for the handle   I wanted to make sure there was at least  12 in from the base of the Guard to the pommel the pommel itself will be made out of part   L this is going to require seven  pieces of 10 mm foam to be glued together so I was able to cut seven squares  of the approximate shape to match the template and then I use  super glue to glue them all together the reason I didn't use contact cement   is because with exposed seams  heat can make these seams open up after all the blocks had been allowed to  cure part L was traced on top and then cut out I then drew the template onto the  side and then reattached the two   pieces that I had cut off with some tape  this is going to allow the bottom of the   piece to remain flat and it's going  to be easier to cut a straight line through I can then cut away the  tape and reveal the shape of the pommel I need to remove foam from the middle  to make room for the handle so once again I'm   going to turn to my forcer bit this will  help me get a bulk of the material out of   the way and then I can clean it up and expand  this hole using my rotary tool the sides also   have a slight bevel to them so I Mark that with  a pencil and also remove that with the rotor tool with all the refining and sanding complete  I can then heat seal the piece with my heat gun next up I'm going to work on the Chain  detail which is going to be made out of part   M this is going to be traced and cut  out of some 6mm foam the top Edge is   rounded over with a rotary tool and then  heat sealed before being glued into place part in will make up the chain and this is  going to be traced and cut out of some 6 mm foam to simulate the weld on one side  more superg glue is added than necessary   and then I hit that with some accelerator to  attach the chain I decide to use some 10 mm   foam dowel I cut this piece in half and  then glued it around the top section of   the chain then using some scissors I cut the  backside flush and then glued it into place   with most of the fabrication done I decided  now is a good time to heat seal the entire piece looking at some of Cano's cover  painting sometimes Dragon Slayer has a   really cool texture to it that I  wanted to simulate so I was able   to take the side of a wire brush  and drag it down the side of the edge I'm not pushing real hard with  this just enough to slightly emboss the surface but I like it it makes it  look as though a hunk of iron has   been deliberately sharpened to a point the  reason I didn't finish the handle earlier   is because I want to try to counterbalance  the weight of the Sword and the best way   I could figure to do that was to get a  10-in 5/8 Carriage Bolt from the hardware store this bolt is going to be wrapped  with a little bit of 6 mm foam just to   make it snug and it's going to be  inserted inside of the PVC pipe it's not a lot of weight but it does  actually help to counterbalance the blade with a bolt hammered into place  the pommel can now be super glued to the end I decided I wanted a forged texture for the  center of the blade and to do that I'm going to   have a mixture of Val SP Stone and Flex Seal now  normally I would probably tell you to do this   outside but it is currently freezing so that's  not going to work so I try to cover my workspace   as best I can with some craft paper the edges  of the blade can then be protected using some   masking tape and paper towels I was then able  to apply a decent amount of the stone texture paint while the stone texture was still  wet I then applied some Flex Seal on top then using a sponge I could go in  and give the surface an even greater variation and for certain areas I  went back and applied even more of   the stone this side of the sword  was then left to dry for several hours later on the sword was flipped  over and the texture process was then repeated the next day in the shop I  came back and everything had fully cured going back to those painted  covers I wanted to add a little   bit of battle damage and I did that by  using my wireless Dremel and a Stone bit   I just couldn't leave the blade pristine  guts has seen way too much action on the battlefield now it's time to Prime and paint and   to Prime the surface I'm going to  be using a couple coats of Plasti Dip this took about a whole can and it was nice  enough one day to prime it outside for my base   primer color I'm going to be using some Ultra  flat green camouflage this was dusted on top of   the cured Plasti Dip and I live in the midwest so  of course the next day it was absolutely freezing   and there was 4 in of snow on the ground flat  antique nickel was then dusted onto the sword   and left to dry with my base colors added I can  now start to smooth the edges using some graphite powder the graphite powder was applied with a  shop cloth to the edges and the guard I didn't   have to worry about the center of the blade  because that's going to be painted black later on now graphite powder is very messy so make   sure you have some craft paper down  and after it's applied you buff the surface to further exent the striations on the blade  I'm going to be using some iridescent Rich   silver from liquitex this is applied  in the same direction as the texture   IID made using the wire brush and notice I  vary the amount of paint applied it's not   the same consistency all the way across  this is going to make it more visually interesting to give a different cast look to the guard   the paint is first stippled on  and then dry brushed across the surface this same stippling  technique is also applied to the palm with the paint applied I did one more  extremely light dusting of the flat antique nickel for the middle of this sword I  first sectioned off the area using some   masking tape liquidex Mars black is going to be  applied directly to the surface using a filber   brush I don't add a lot water to this application  because I don't want the paint running under the tape with the edges taken care of I can now fill  in the Middle with a larger brush I'll first paint   the pigment onto the surface and then I'll go  back and stipple it to alleviate any brush Strokes I wanted a stronger highlight on the edge of  the blade so I'm going to use some liquidex   bright silver this is dry brushed from The  Edge inward keeping that horizontal brush stroke to wrap the handle I decided  to use a pretty thick strip of cotton   I have seen others use athletic tape  but I really wanted a bulky look to it the cloth was wrapped around  the handle and when I got to the   bottom I separated the strip this  could then be glued glued and tied off to give the cloth some wear and tear I started   off with a hobby knife and  then switched over to a wire brush this did a pretty decent job fraying The  Edge to give the cloth some aged appearance I   used some dirty down dark brown spray this  spray is fantastic at weathering props then I used a little bit of water to move the  pigments around to simulate the oils left by your hand now you of course could leave your blade here   but I wanted some blood so I'm going  to be applying some Perma blood to the blade I'll start off with a mop  brush for the general shape and   then switch over to using my hands for a thicker texture really plan out this  process try to Envision what it   would be like like if this sword swung through a monster so while I'm adding brush Strokes I'll  also go in with a toothbrush to add splatter   while the layers are drying this is a thicker  paint so this back and forth builds up on the blade I also ended up making my own brush  using some plant stocks after the droplets   were made with a toothbrush I can then  take this custom brush and give them   some direction this direction would simulate  the velocity of the blood hitting the blade   while it's swinging I obviously watched  too much Dexter back in the day so with   a couple of layers of Perma blood down  it's now time to darken parts of it up   to make it look coagulated so I'm going to  mix some Perma blood with some liquitex Mars black this is going to be used as a paint on  mixture and as a buildup with some 5-minute epoxy   I'm going to do the epoxy first and parts A and  B are equally measured on a piece of poster board board after being thoroughly mixed together  some of this paint mixture is added to the epoxy this mixture will then be applied with  a chip brush directly to the blade now with   this process a little bit goes a long way I  tried to think about where would Gore build   up on the blade so primarily I would apply it  to the edge and then streak it up towards the middle and of course it would also catch  on the textures in the middle of the blade after this had dried I then flip the  blade over and repeat the process after the   5-minute epoxy cured I can then go back with my  paint mixture and a large mop brush with some water I would then splatter the surface here and  there again using my custom brush to simulate velocity I could then also go back with  my toothbrush and add additional finer   splatter it's all showcasing a buildup  of all these elements on the blade if   it's just the Perma blood it's not near as  visually interesting as all of these put together after trying to remind myself multiple  times I still almost forgot I need to add two   circles to the bottom of the Guard detail  to do this I'm going to be using a/2 in   hole punch just pressing it into the foam and  twisting it this this is going to slightly cut   into the surface and give it a depression  but for this small detail it's more than enough so you all can see the steps that I took  to make a giant iconic weapon from berserk   and hopefully you learn some new tips and  tricks along the way not just putting the   sword together but painting it the logistics  of making a large weapon the blood effects   these are all things that you can file away  for future builds and if you are building any   of my builds or utilizing HD phone be sure to  tag me at SKS props on Twitter and Instagram   because I want to see your Creations until  next time build your best with the best HD foam

Channel: SKS Props

Views: 18,379

Keywords: berserk, berserk anime, berserk manga, dragonslayer, dragonslayer sword, dragonslayer replica, berserk sword, guts, guts sword, guts dragonslayer, griffith, guts berserk, griffith berserk, anime replicas, anime props, anime crafts, props, replicas, cosplay, cardboard crafts, dragon slayer, dragon slayer sword, dragonslayer berserk, dragon slayer berserk, guts dragon slayer, craft tutorial, cosplay tutorial, sks props, how to make dragonslayer sword, how to make berserk cosplay

Id: IYFbiKd-CAw

Length: 37min 12sec (2232 seconds)

Published: Fri Feb 23 2024