How to make an IR Sniper for the Flipper Zero.

in this video I'll show you how to make an i sniper you'll need a i torch you just want to make sure it's an LED torch and uh 940 NM this one's a 5 wat you just want to make sure it has essentially just a onof function you don't want any other modes to it so just essentially just on off you also make want to make sure you don't get the VSS cell so make sure it's an LED I torch just some prototype board some header pins some wire and you need a just an OCTA coupler so it's a 4 and 33 and that's pretty much all you need I've also got some 3D printed parts that I also will put on printables that I'll use to make it so the first step we'll do is you just want to to cut the board to the right um size so I've already cut one already zoom in so if you're following along it's essentially Just Too High by I think it's by 28 across so it just sit like that so first thing I'll do is just I'll just solder the header pins on you can essentially make it um smaller you don't need to go the full length you only need to go from probably just from pin one to pin 8 if you want it to make a smaller version I just like the the length of it small ergonomics once you actually put the case on it so you can hold it like that let's get to solo for for so you just want the eight at the front and then there'll be 10 at the back for so it's just going to sit like that and with this case I just sit on top so that's why I've sort of gone the full length is like when you hold it it's just nice to have something to hold on instead of being a bit shorter there so the next step is we're going to have to pull the back of the torch off so this is just where the switch is so that turns on and off it's just a switch for the negative so the battery will go against that and that's the negative um the switch will just essentially switch the power the negative to the actual body of the case so it makes the whole um case of the torch at the negative so it turns it on and off so to pull the back of the switch apart it's just got these two little dimples there and you just want to get a long no pliers or something to go in there and just be able to twist it off so let's just thread it on that's the switch so that's just on and off and there's just a little bit of rubber piece there which we can push out so what we want to do is remove that switch from the the board um the easiest way probably is cuz it's solded on both sides I just find it easy if we just cut the switch off then I can just stolder usually if put a bit of extra solder on and helps to make the job bit easier to take off so just turn my soling on on just give it a little bit extra Soler and it'll come off asier let clean it up a bit so next step is soling the OCTA coupler onto it so with got a a marker here so this Mark there indicates that that's pin one so we got 1 2 3 it goes four 5 six so we only need um pin one and two which goes to the flipper so pin one goes to pin two on the flipper and then pin two goes to a ground which we'll just go to we'll use pin 8 um the next one's are pin five which will go to the IR LED and pin six will go to the negative on the battery so we're just going to go these ones are going to the actual this board here for the pins that we don't need or the legs I usually just chop it off cuz we don't just not to confuse and get mixed up so we've got pin one pin two and pen five and pin six so the next step is we have to find out on the actual board which one goes to the negative on the battery so looking at this I might just use a Multimeter just to make sure give me a sec so the negative on the going to the battery is pin six so what we want to do is use the multimeter holding it this and then just check which side it corresponds to so this one we'll go to pin six on the Octo coupler so I want to sort of just place it maybe like that so this side here is pin six and that's pin five so pin six4 just double check [Music] again so this side is the um the negative battery so we want to make sure pin six is going to that side there so I'll sit like that and then pin five goes to um to the I led which will go to the body of the torch on that side so I just bend the pins just it's bit hard to focus like that and we want to have that it's centered as possible just because the case that I've 3D printed we want it to sit over to on top of that show so it look something like that so that's pin six going to the negative and then pin five is going to the body of the torch going to the IR LED and it's sitting as centered as possible I just Sal that for so it looks something like that and just make sure that it's not shorting in between okay then we can bend these wi pins across a bit and we just want to get our wire so I'm using 24 AWG wire size you can use whatever size you want pretty much doesn't really matter too much now we just tin The [Music] Wire and we just going to Soler it on that should look like that for pin one just so we know which one it is I'm just going to strip the end of it and leave the other one as is so we can have something to identify the diff the two so pin one has been stripped so this one goes to pin two on the flipper side so next we can put the wire through the 3D prined in cut if you don't have a 3D printer you can probably get away with you can get away with just using the parts you have from the torch and just put a little hole in to the Rubber and thread the wire through it should still work it'll work the same so pull the wire through and hopefully I can shut it so it still fits on which is good and we just put this back through the end of the torch cup and assemble it so it's just going to go through like that and that's just the end and I'm just going to put this back on just make sure when you put this back on and it's it sits Tight cuz this is where it contacts to the to the actual board and if it doesn't contact populate the LED or the torch won't work get it in so just make sure it's sitting all the way down the bottom before you tighten it just tight it so that's the torch side done next we just want to get the pce ke board off here so that's I'm just going to coil the wire up so it's a bit neater and thread it through the case look like that then we're just going to solder onto the board so we're just going to sld it to pin two and then pin8 which is for the ground so we know the one that we've stripped is for pin two which goes to the pin one on the OCTA coupler tin let try to line it up S right let's put a bit more solder on it and then next w i goes to pin 8 so we just want to strip it as close to that as possible just to keep the length of the wire nice I'm just going to pin eight which is ground okay so pin that's one two which is going to pin six on the OCTA coupler 3 4 5 6 7 8 there which is the ground sorry that's not going to pin six it's going to pin one on o the coupl then we can put the case on so once it's all tested you can glue the case in there's a couple tabs here on each side you can put a little bit of um super glue put it on and just glue it in place but we'll just check to make sure it's working first so I assum that'll be it's got to get a battery put it in so once it's glued up it look like that which looks quite nice and I've made it like like I said it's the full length so you can hold it and it it's got a bit bit hold there um you just want to go into infrared IR GPI settings make sure it's on to external so it's going to pin two go back universal remotes TV and I just get another flipping so we can show you here so I've just got the transparent version this week so go infrared as well on this one let got to turn on the debug okay so that's on the debug and if we press this one it's sending the signal from this eye torch so it's cycling through all the different um signals so it's pretty cool so the thing to notice with these torches that the beam is very direct so it's got to zoom in and out but if you're quite close to the TV the beam is going to very direct so you're going to have to probably point at the TV um I guess essentially what this is hopefully going to do is give you a bit better long range that's why it's called the IR sniper you've got to be a bit more accurate with it as opposed to having something that's uh very quite a big FL like light flash um so it' be interesting to see if you guys make it um how well it works I haven't actually tested it too much but I've had a fair bit of a request to show how to make it so um you can have a go of playing with yourself so thanks for watching the video um like if you enjoyed this video and you want to see more And subscribe if you want to see anything in the future thanks

Channel: Ray J

Views: 15,027

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Id: yS9yn6YXohY

Length: 29min 23sec (1763 seconds)

Published: Thu Nov 02 2023