How to make an ELECTRIC Furnace (Foundry) for metal casting Part 2 by VOGMAN

or YouTube my name's Jeff and on the vigil guy last week I shared part one my electric friend rebuild with you and as promised here's part two if you haven't seen part one there's a link appearing on the page right now and that's really the place to start if the link hasn't appeared try the description below otherwise let's crack on it was around this point in the build that I noticed the mortar had a significant strengthening effect on the bricks in this rapid test you can see how easy it is to damage one treated bricks but those with even a very thin coating of mortar do seem much stronger this made me rethink the top of my Fender II which is likely to receive a lot of wear and tear I remove the top frame adding water to some mortar mix this to the consistency of runny paint grab the brush and started painting the targa I was so pleased with these that I extended down a couple of rows inside the foundry making sure I didn't accidentally coat any coils by adding two coats in total and I let this dry a couple of days I still had four bricks left from my original 30 and I decided to bond three of these on edge to make a nice thick lead he has two of them and you can see I've recessed at the ends a little to make room for an inch square piece of frame I bonded these with mortar and left them 24 hours for good measure the following day I stretched more thin polythene across the top and then I pushed how on the metal frame I scraped a thin coating of more two across the bottom of these three bricks and position them nice and centrally these comfortably covered the main chamber of the foundry but as I looked at this I looked at my collection of offcuts from began to ponder the offcuts were perfectly shaped to retain the examiner button so I couldn't resist bonding these on and like kind of got carried away with this I guess I was having too much fun it looks a bit of a crazy mess but the idea is to add more insulation and integrity to the lid in bricklayer fashion I staggered joints to add strength and then I added a thin paint coat of mortar then I sliced a brick into and added these two slices to finish off my supply of 30 ok the finished look is a little unorthodox and any comments about looking like a face will be ignored by me and my mate Dave the lid when I was happy the lid had had enough time to dry I pushed through some lengths of box steel at the end of these I had already drilled a 10 millimeter hole brought them tried to calculate the exact length I slid some overly long lengths of box steel on to some threaded rod some simple maths told me that five inches would be long enough to fit these gap neatly so I placed these onto the upper frame at the rear corner pulling everything back through I was able to gauge where everything would comfortably rest this enabled me to cut those dangling links to something more suitable and well together this basic H support bracket the threaded rod was pushed back in place and I used nuts and washers to ensure everything was aligned in Mersin centrally careful use of a tape measure was a must the H bracket could then be welded to the frame on the other side of the lid I was able to adjust how long I wanted the handle to be I cook this to length that suited me and welded in the crosspiece making sure I had plenty of clearance for loft fingers notice these holes I've drilled and threaded these to receive bolts but I needed to make some simple Brackins first these holden support the lead and the handles i fitted these with bolts and metal initially scoring position then drilling and finally adding some bolts with the putty i made and fitted similar brackets at the back and the whole lid pivots nicely providing a nice big opening with the lid completed i turn my attention to the electrics these connection points were belongeth when the family is in use and they need covering to prevent electric shock these metal electric back boxes were a perfect ready-made solution if I hadn't had these I'd have probably built something similar out of sheet steel these must cover the connection points but not touch them I enlarged one of the holes in the back of these boxes to take a rubber grommet these chrome it holds very snugly the three core heavy-duty mains cable the grommet is necessary to prevent rubbing on the very thin metal box which could easily slice into the wires the core of the wires is not that important in this instance polarity isn't an issue where there's a coil however I've stuck with the UK color coding system for convenience what is important is that the wires can safely handle the current of the things we will take to each of these Myers have added more hits leaving insulating for electricity and heat ring connectors are firmly print in place notice the other tape on the rear cable it's crucial to earth or ground all the metal involved for electrical safety and this marked cable is the designated earth lead through the other small hole I placed a small bolt to this I attach the earth ring connector when he came to ring connectors I didn't have one large enough to slide over the 10 millimeter threaded bar somehow I took a washer drilled a small hole into it and made one of my own the earthing cable is daisy chain connected to the second metal box and then on to the homemade green connector there's nothing inside the second box it's only function is to cover the connection points but it still needs earthing over at the foundry the Lord help may drinkin octets slides on Twitter ad bar as this is in contact with all the metal framework this frames everything nicely including the handle deal the two ring connectors attached to the coil or bolts these are the positive and negative supplying their gain polarity isn't important here I also screwed in the thermocouple and hang tight in a quarter turn with a spanner is snug enough it was then just a question of fixing the boxes in place I used the same Bolton pretty approach for this and it worked to treat which finishes off the electrics on the foundry itself I now had to concentrate on persuading the foundry to lift vertically and to start this I cook for lengths of one-inch square steel juvi had drilled some six millimeter holes into them using some corresponding bolts I was able to bolt together two side supports these when fitted should sit vertically between the two remaining brackets only popular and lower frames using some flat bar steel I made eight L brackets now you could buy something like this off the shelf dart was looking for something sturdy plus I still needed the welding practice with a vise clamped onto my drill press and with some repeat positioning it was possible to drill so consistently placed old when the L brackets and supports come together then ideally placed to accept a standard skateboard wheel I found eight washers either side of the wheel held it nice and centrally then I placed two wheels on each support bracket these wheel supports and then fitted and carefully aligned to be nice and level remember the L brackets for the wheels if the top hole is young gated slightly the bracket can pivot before being bolted down firmly this is particularly helpful for vertical alignment I then realized I'd left now connection points for the wire rope that was still to come so I quickly fabricated and added these brackets at this point I couldn't resist a temporary test in fact I hooked up the PID and run the foundry for a week at a hundred degrees to help things dry off I then finished off for the couple of hours at 800 degrees it was over the course this week that a few cracks appeared in the mortar joints he didn't seem to escape but it made me feel that mortaring the joints on the top two levels was pointless but the choice is yours 10 mentions in one of his videos that the end side of his foundry reached over a hundred degrees I hadn't noticed anything like that on my short tests but I didn't fancy losing that much heat so in the interests of efficiency I decided to wrap the outside with this insulation material now this claims to have not all the usual nasties associated with this type of product but I wore a mask was put in just in case as a belt and braces kinda guy I also decided to contain the insulation within a material sleeve just in case any of the fibers decided to ignore the manufacturers claims this is fine cotton the sort of thing your shirts are made from it's strong and very tightly woven so tight in fact that I've used it successfully to filter waste federal in the past this meant getting out a needle and cotton and I'm certainly no tailor but it is functional I will say at this point if he concerned about that cotton being at all flammable I placed this piece in my kitchen oven at 150 degrees which is 50 degrees more than Terry experienced as you can see it didn't burn at the ends i looped some spring and soak this in place to help fix him remember this is string and not cord cord is likely to melt these insulation pads are certainly an added extra they squeezing nicely behind the threaded bar and cover everything except their metal boxes at the rear which I want to be able to breathe and keep cool and of course the two side wheel supports now remember how I did mortar between the top two rows I didn't want them to get knocked off either so I needed to keep them in place but not to grip them to firmly or rigidly then give it a bit like holding a frog you want to hold it tight so it doesn't get away but not so tight this you end up with well frog soup with this in mind and made a crude jig for some brick scraps and by welding some flat bar together I make these simple corner supports when he came to holding these in place I initially position them with masking tape I then took a long Jubilee clip and tighten this unfortunately was rubbish it simply wouldn't tighten so I ended up making my own version with metal strapping underlying scraps and a bolt that worked much better the strapless tines such that it held the corner straps in place but didn't do so harshly just enough really and that's the fender II completely finished what it named needs is a lifting mechanism and that starts with timber for these two uprights on with four by fours this may seem a little excessive but I want the wood to be strong and hopefully stay straight they also need to be relatively tall to give lift clearance and these will 1.8 metres or approximately six foot to accommodate the roller skate wheels it was necessary to cut a channel into one of the four sites on each post this channel needs to be just a tiny bit wider than the wheel to prevent any binding and roughly half an inch deep again I turned to my router for this job with that done it's just a matter of fixing the posts in place I initially used ratchet straps to hold the posts loosely in position and then adding top and side support until everything was rigid level and complete there's no fancy carpentry skills here just cutting and screwing the wheels need to rest within the channels of the posts they shouldn't be tight against the frame as some movement is expected ideally they should float free of the posts that look as though they're touching that so close we need them to be but if they're fixed firmly against the post you can expect a lot of jamming and no smooth lifting don't think of the wheel and channel arrangement as a restrictive frame we want the fender to rise nice and straight without twisting or turning and hopefully without touching the posts at all if the foundry does need to strike the posts the wheels should keep things fairly friction free and hopefully align things nicely on the way to raise the foundry I've toyed with a few ideas including kenta weights the ratchet and chain system and a block and tackle it was this last idea that really grabbed me the pulley is an amazing machine it's so simple and yet so effective there's lots of informative material out there on police some that won't cover them in depth here but a very brief review might be helpful so here's a heavy box that we need to lift we've got to lift it upwards and you can think of that red arrow as being the amount of weight and effort that's involved in the lift so what if we use a pulley to help well this arrangement with the pulley fixed to a ceiling or stable structure is called a fixed pulley when the Rope is pulled the box can be lifted but it still weighs the same it's still the same amount of effort nothing has really changed yes pulling downwards feels easier and more convenient than lifting upwards but the only benefit of the fixed pulley system seems to be changing the direction of the effort so a fixed pulley changes direction but what happens if we take the pulley off the ceiling and put it onto the box this setup is called the movable pulley as the pulley moves whenever the weight is moved one end of the rope is fixed to the ceiling then the other is pulled then when the Rope is pulled the effort is marked it's actually easier to lift that's because half the weight is being shared by the ceiling and half the plate is being pulled by you so a movable pulley reduces the effort but of course we're back to pulling upwards in the direction that's not very comfortable so let's add back in a fixed pulley on the ceiling now we benefit from both factors the movable pulley reduces the effort and the fixed pulley changes the direction of the pole making things nice and easy for us the really great thing about this is that we can duplicate these many times over by adding more pulleys he has six in total this setup dramatically reduces the amount of effort involved when lift in the box in this case by a factor of six and that's the very setup I chose to use to lift my foundry fortunately rather than have all these separate pulleys and fixings they can all be added together in what's commonly called a block and tackle and if you're thinking all this sense too good to be true and can't be right you're correct there has to be a payoff and the panel fees you have to pull more rope whenever there's a block and tackle involved you end up pulling far more rope than you normally would but I think this is a fair trade you can easily buy pulleys online just make sure they're large enough to handle the size of the Rope you use I prefer the metal variety and I also prefer slightly larger pulley wheels now I get conduct a few experiments and the configuration I eventually came up with was this it's difficult to showing place but I'll describe it as best I can it's important that both sides are pulled up at the same time to keep things nice and level and I achieved this using a loop of wire rope connected to either side of the foundry the steel rod ends pass around a thimble to produce a stable I and the Rope is clamped with appropriate fittings these then linked to the appropriate brackets on the foundry this loop of wire needs to feed through four pulleys two singles and two doubles starting on the left the wire rope comes up and over a single pulley heading towards the right it then rest on the top of a double pulley through a hole in the frame then over a second double pulley where it's directed downwards it then does an under ninety degree turn around a single pulley it goes back over the second double pulley through the frame over the first double Akane and down the right side of the factory where it connects this whole arrangement serves only to redirect the direction of the pull as I simply don't have the height available above my foundry the second single pulley is floating it's a movable pulley and it helps centralize the pull on the cable the whole weight of the foundry is now redirected to this pulley to this exact point it's now just a matter of using a block and tackle arrangement but upside down from conventional setup so lighten this load I've used to triple pulleys in the block-and-tackle set up the top triple pulley system is movable and the bottom triple is fixed in place on the base of the frame the lifting effort could be reduced even further with four five or six bodies but I could only find these triples and they did the job for me to raise the pulley this bottom rope has to be pulled upwards it's actually not too bad it's not easy but it is easier than trying to lift the whole family by hand at this point you could add counterweight to make lifting easier or maybe a manual crank handle you may prefer to lift the whole thing using an engine hoist but as I gone this far I wanted to finish things off with an electric hoist if you've seen some of my other videos you'll know I'm a fan of these electric wheelchair motors they've got bags of power have a fabulous gear setup and are readily available used online this one came with a bracket and the wheel I was able to use the bracket as a guide to drill these square bar supports this enabled me to screw the motor firmly to the frame I originally thought of using the hook from the wheel to collect the rope but the wheel was simply too large and the talk involvement the wheel wouldn't turn however I was able to remove the center from this hook and fashioned the Rope spindle the did work but and it's confession time here guys it didn't get twisted err to shame this shows you the forces that are involved here this spindle was simply made from the hook four lengths of ma rod and an MDF stop end but induced the pressure of the pool squashed and bent the steel bars now I could have made another but the squash Center actually makes the Rope Center on the spool so it's a happy accident as the great Bob Ross used to say so I've showed you what can happen but the choice is yours I decided to reinforce the bent rods with a few welds I then taped over the threaded rod to reduce wear on the rope and I also added a stop in to the hub as once or twice the rope had spilled off this end the spindle or sprawl is attached to the motor and the rope is firmly tied to it named hang on I said rope there didn't I not still rope just rope so what's the difference well again this is a personal choice wife down the steel rope very inflexible but its close proximity to the foundry makes steel an obvious choice but for the pulling mechanism this rope is much more flexible between the pulleys and it's far enough away from the heat of the foundry not to be affected so that's where I went with the pair of the wheelchair motor I used a 24 volt LED transformer this one can handle 10 amps so it left no trouble with the motor when coupled with this momentary dpdt switch which can reverse polarity I've got a motor that moves both forwards and backwards at the push of a button I've already shared a video with you on wiring up a dpdt switch to reverse polarity it's a very useful switch function to know about then where you place the motor is up to you I place mine on the opposite side of the frame to the police purely for personal convenience but this meant I had to read nopal Roper via two single pulleys open over the foundry dropping down into the spool and sure enough this gutsy motor has no trouble lifting the foundry it's wonderful keyring system also ensures that when the switch is released the foundries held midair giving excellent access to the crucible and once again this video has gone on longer than I expected so I think we can have to call at the end of part 2 but don't worry part 3 is already on the cutting room floor as they say so it'll be with you in just a couple of days in the meantime I hope you enjoyed this installment and if you did please like it please send in your comments and questions and take a look at people the videos on my youtube channel if you haven't already please subscribe so that's it for now guys look out for part three and thanks for watching

Channel: VogMan

Views: 75,697

Keywords: electric foundry, electric, foundry, tutorial, metal casting, vegoilguy, kiln, vog

Id: QOfCKiQjSds

Length: 21min 26sec (1286 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 10 2018