How to make a Tiny Boat: Alumacraft V14 Transformation.

much like you all i wanted was a better quality of fishing and i was initially motivated and shown the way by these people some over a decade ago doing jumbo to bass boats and poor man's bass boat homemade bass bow conversions those names were the ones that were trending but things have changed now there are tiny boats a lot of dispute has been over what a tiny boat is what a tiny boat is to me is a max efficiency hold nothing back build you cut no corners you understand that no matter what you make your boat out of wood aluminum fiberglass there has to be a certain sequence of moving parts in an algorithm that makes it all work when you follow it you can get an absolute monster of a platform you can turn a boat that might look overweighted but it's likely lighter than everything else in the competition something that actually performs well under the conditions it's meant to serve in now you have a tiny boat a trend pushed by a world of people so utterly dedicated to the love of fishing that they're willing to take on one of the hardest projects they could do in their lives just to gain the edge in the sport it is because of all of you who follow this trend that tiny boats are now the norm they are now the standard people have always tried to overcome the main cultural norms of the fishing industry neglecting anybody with a small boat like this but this time we're really sticking it to them we are now a counterculture that has hit critical mass and now everybody's trying to catch up some from the main culture even try to tag our name to try and expand their realm in effort to catch up but this round will never belong to bootleggers the tiny boat nation is home now to millions people who are dedicated to this sport people who are creative people who are passionate boat length horsepower and electric only restrictions don't stop these people they take over it with haste because of all of you small boat building for fishing platforms has gone such a long way that the trends now are pretty insane this video here showcases my run to try and max out the platform for the 14 foot tiny boats the demand for this project is so huge because of what is all going into it insane things going to this boat and if you don't do it right you just end up turning into a floating death trap and it won't be a tiny boat a boat can have all the expensive grass and turf and leds and accessories on it all you want but unless it's built right from underneath it's just lipstick on a pig this video is to show you how not to do that if you pull this off then everybody around you in a tournament will hate you they're gonna wish they could pull this off but they can't just go and buy this they're gonna have to build it this documentary is pretty long so here are the times for each section that you can cross-reference back and forth to they're also in the description area with hyperlinks if you have any questions specific to this build there's entire playlist series for it right up here and in the description area below and there's also some vip videos that are really in depth if you want even more information there's also an entire parts list in the description area of this video along with an entire parts collection of this boat on our website just search v14 alumacraft if you like this video please comment and share and like and subscribe it will help this video trend more than you'll ever know this is an alumacraft v14 in my opinion one of the best if not the best boat to do one of these projects it has an insane load capacity it's built like a tank it is super stable it is built correctly from the ground up even though it's an economy boat something that a lot of boat companies will skimp on their economy boats to max out their higher end boats this is a virgin 3 floorite live wall system this system goes in pretty much all major bass boats it's a fantastic system it is a set it forget it way and so putting this thing in here is absolutely paramount for what we're trying to achieve we cut out the back end of the main board section to widen it so we could fit this pump set up in we fabricated a bracket to make sure we could hold the pump into a section where it would actually make sense because we still have to run two bilge pumps with everything we have to put back there the fit will be tight but we'll be able to pull it off we fabricate our own little chill box cooler mod and stick it directly next to the live well the theory is that if we have enough tubing running through that chill mod with ice that'll give the edge in cooling the water when it gets really hot out there over time we develop kits that are ultra light to meet the needs of making a full kit while still staying in the boundaries of a boat safe working capacity this is our gen x monster kit a deck and frame combo that is ultra light by the time we're done with this entire boat it will be under capacity we will be able to carry two people a live well batteries and gear in a full deck and it'll still be under the boat's capacity if i were you and i had this kit i would install it first to avoid serious complications later on when you framed and you got in too deep we're going to install a teach marine oxygenator on the far side of the live well because the nozzle is already going to be aerating the other side should give it an even spread of oxygen we install the overflow we connect it with a quick locks this thing is ready to go it's ready for testing once we get to that point complete with two bilge pumps one manual and one manual slash auto we're also going to be installing a cmc power tilt the worth of a power tilt is so important that if you had to choose one accessory as an add-on for your outboard it should be the tilt everything else is just not as useful now we're ready to start the framing the side angle is already there in straight all across the boat made it pretty easy to attach the rest of the side angle and the bench seat in the front was riveted together and made it really easy to reuse parts of it this layout we make here will determine the fate of the boat how advanced it could be the features it has if it can accomplish what we set out to do we're using one and a half inch by 1 16 inch thick angled aluminum we use this because it's so light yet still strong enough to accomplish all the main points and be structurally sound once we get everything on board we have 150 feet of this it's a little over a pound per each six foot stick then that front piece we took out for the flooring turns out that's a really good piece of aluminum with under braces already there why throw that away we're gonna go ahead and recycle that thing and turn it into the bow plate and it makes an excellent valve plate sets us up for success for other things later we're also going to make an inner channel so we can run lights underneath that later that'll be a huge key part of what we do before we get any farther in though we're gonna have to install certain things we're gonna go ahead and install this brand new min kettle ultrax megadi if there's any myth that the tiny boat nation has busted it's the poor man's bass boat myth people will go through insane lengths to get the edge even though people are hindered with both length and horsepower and electric only restrictions it still doesn't stop them from pimping out their boat to the max we're going to be skinning the top of this with gator skin's non-skid which is stuff that will last for years even on the elements with no maintenance we're also going to be sticking on a th marine geforce eliminator which makes uh troubleshooting your trolling motor and overall performance a little bit better th marine also makes a trolling motor pull cord that is really robust and apparently takes care of the issues of those things snapping on you never had one snap but i would imagine if it did it would really screw up your entire day because how are you gonna disengage the trolling motor probably a worthwhile mod to have we're gonna be running gator skins in every major part of the boat that we possibly can because of its sheer durability and quality if you already noticed the accessory list for this boat is already stacking up all that adds weight how we compensate for all that weight and all the batteries added in including the live well when it's full in the gas tank as we frame this thing as light as we possibly can we only use just enough to accomplish the goal we have plenty aluminum here to do it next step is we are going to run a dry hatch lip it's a water diversion system that just simply diverts water into other parts of the boat where we don't particularly mind water getting into that gives us a lot of room to keep all of our key things like our electronics and our lures and everything else dry to take care of the walls we use .040 aluminum sheeting we have this included in the kit as well it is light enough to be efficient yet thick enough to cover the important parts and be useful we use additional parts of aluminum angle to attach everything out from underneath as we complete the entire system having a thin aluminum wall allows for the max amount of capacity inside each compartment which was a serious problem when we used plastic totes we lost a lot of actual area room now on to the rod locker get a lot of questions about this we're going to have to taper some of these tubes the goal is to have the tubes tapered not so you have to stick your rods inside the taper which would bend the rod but so you can get the rod in far enough to where you can back it in so it lays out straight the inner tubes are going to be able to hold the longest rods followed by the outer tubes which are going to be able to hold the shortest what's more important is you really need a wide locker opening that is between four and five feet the locker opening there preferably five if you can pull it off that way you don't have to bend your rod to get into the tube which causes just problems in general having that type of a fit we ran drain tubes everywhere we ran a false floor down there where we took off the initial floor we sell that off with quad foam so later on we could run drain tubes from all these extra areas where we stuck poor foam and that would lead into the middle channel this boat has a nice middle channel uh surrounded by foam underneath the entire subfloor which we left in and we're gonna go ahead and add on to that here by doing this setup we've done the setup in other boats and it's been extremely successful before we get too far into this we're going to go ahead and run the front and back stationary panels we're going to do this out of furrated plywood from the hardware store this is half inch for rated plywood and we're going to be running a 3 16 inch hardwood lip we've already resin coated these strips if you guess you're wondering for later we're putting these on the bottom and this gives us a depth of 3 4 inch piece of plywood which would equal the 3 4 inch tubing that we're about to run for the aluminum deck so when wrapped with carpet they'll meet the exact height of the aluminum angle and tube deck we're also going to route out this spot here we're using this day box that nate built me here it's a pretty sweet little day box and it's going to come in and out as an easily accessible hatch so we can troubleshoot anything that goes wrong with the pumps should anything go wrong with the pumps once these are finished off we're going to seal these with oil based enamel two coats followed by a copious layer of carpet glue and the other sides are already still with resin this all fits quite nicely together it's prepped to fit this day box this day box will be covered with turf and the turf will align with the carpet once it's all together and screwed down when this guy said he wanted the best stuff in a boat he wasn't messing around he essentially wants to put an elite level bass boat inside this 14-foot boat so he got all kinds of crazy stuff lithium batteries the best electronics out there the best battery charger out there and a bunch of other stuff we have three 10 inch graphs we're going to be installing to this boat including this cool little hydrowave which is supposed to spur the fish feeding he also got a pretty tall riser for the fish finders which naturally go on a bass boat that more or less has no real deck it's just all flat but we have this nice one foot tall riser on the bow and if we just mount this here it's going to give us just as tile rises as we use the stud they'll help us with savings and help us initially with the frame model which we'll get in shortly the key here is this gentleman whose boat this is has a job and a life and does not lead the tournament angler's life where all they do is pre-fish and mark tree lines and do things like that it's really hard to compete against somebody like that unless you have the electronics which today now they're good enough to where you can get around that stuff when they're dialed in right you can compete against somebody who pre-fished or knows that lake the entire week and actually go out there and scan stuff and hold your own we'll get to those later they're going to be a serious pain to wire right now we're going to worry about structure and how we're going to replace all that styrofoam we got it out we're going to go ahead and pour in poor foam around these major sections remember we framed in two major day boxes up in the front we're performing around those to solidify the day boxes so they're pretty solid when everything's set inside you can step in these compartments and they won't budge while we have that thing sectioned out we're gonna have to run these in parts we're gonna going all around here and there messing around from wiring to framing to adding external mods because if we don't pre-plan this won't go right we added a c light pole which gives the panoptix transducer independent movement that way when it's attached to a trolling motor you don't have to worry about the spot lock spinning all around or worrying about having to turn your motor head off the fish if you have to pivot inside the wind we're just using some traditional wire grommets from the hardware store but a lot of people just use through-hole fittings and they work just as well to keep the wire secure when they're coming out of ports like this the current problem at hand with the panoptix live scope and any other live imaging transducer is there's just no good place to put it the best thing they came up with these poles that sometimes they interlock and move up and down i guess they do alright for what they are i'm going to be experimenting with a retractable pull platform for this transducer later on in my own personal boat i'm just not going to risk it on somebody else's but you can stay tuned for that if you're interested conveniently though this pole gives us an option to actually mount the hydrowave because we had no place to mount it on the actual trolling motor because the mega di transducer is huge didn't allow for us to do it mounting all that stuff was the fun part now comes the tedious part of actually running all the wires we're running wires for everything we have a million other different wires because all the hummingbird units require ethernet ports to link up there's actually an obscene bajillion wires everywhere we're going to try and run this tactfully through conduit piping so this one section where we're going to add poor foam to compensate for the amount of foam taken out and then from everything else we're going to run it through a wall going all the way down this main area when we run this conduit wall it should give us enough of a space to lead all these wires when you're running all of these make sure you buy a cheap label maker from walmart or staples wherever it will change everything and it will help you substantially later on if you have to troubleshoot or add any other wires that way this doesn't become a diagnostic nightmare whenever you have to go back into it the only place to store the ethernet port in the black box for the panoptix along with all this extra wiring is right up there in the bow everywhere else is already used up the other wiring linking everything together to the brain is going to have to be ran through ready expendable sleeping down that conduit wall the brady expandable sleeving is nice it looms everything correctly and it doesn't weigh a ton like the pvc piping we used before now we're gonna make the brain we're making a box here so we can make our own switch panel inside the box we actually sell these in our store pre-made just in case you're wondering you don't have to go through all this but i'm gonna do it for you anyways we are going to be running three individual fuse blocks but there's one that stand alone and the other one is actually a 6612 split that will allow us to run two actual power units there while grouping all the negative ends to one specific fuse block really really cutting down on the amount of space and that's good because we have a ton of crap to run here we're gonna be running a cutoff switch right in the middle we're actually gonna be running two one for the panoptix units by themselves i have an entire playlist a series of electric videos for these projects dedicated on my channel and the link is right up here in the icard and also in the description area below if you need to see anything in depth this is just an overview of what i did here so you can see that it's possible this is very very much doable at a diy level one of the bigger things we're doing is we're sticking gator skins not skid inside here because rubber it just does a really good job of protecting yourself from any sort of electrical shorts and it also gives a little bit of a grommet way when we stick these wires underneath the panel to link to the fuse blocks and the bus bars we'll have to do most of that once we install the panel but we can do a lot of it now at least from the master switch we can run all the power leads to the fuse blocks themselves we can prep the negative leads to go to the battery you never want to run some sort of external ground that mounts to the hull because then you will make your boat have cancer and it'll be on its way out it speeds the electrolysis process on the aluminum hole really really bad all positive and negative leads from the panel will eventually end up to the battery it's 12 volts out so you'll have to use the appropriate length wire there are wire sizing charts on the anker marine website and also on the abyyc website we are also wiring relays and we will show you that in an in-depth electric video that's coming up shortly after this video is posted we just wanted to do this first to show you guys what's going on we have a flow right system there there's a live wall timer there's the on off and timer switch right next to it that controls the entire livewell unit that we installed way back at the beginning of the boat aside from running that 1 6 game switch panel with a bunch of piggyback wires that only lead out to one major power wire we were running four individual switches and we are running the leads from the switches to that panel we're doing all of that before we drop it in here because once we drop it in here we're gonna have to start wearing everything else i was so cramped for wire space that i had to run a condor through the live well just to make everything work and i had to seal it with 350 200. right now i'm running a lead for the power tilt switch which i also had to run through that conduit in another section just for it to work and go out the other end these back panels here that cover the major foam sections because that's just going to be obscenely heavy once we stack another wood panel on top of it we're going to go ahead and cut a major section of wood out of those we're going to do that because we're going to have to run wires somewhere the amount of electronics is really starting to crunch at me i'm starting to get that i might have bit off a little more than i can chew i'm starting to get nervous so we had to do things i did not want to do i did not want to disturb any of the foam in the boat and i didn't want to mess up those panels but hey once you reach a point in a boat build it's like constant problem solving it's like constantly playing 40 chests with yourself have you ever tried playing chess with yourself it sucks we ran the two yellowtech leads from 14 gauge wire into 12 gauge wire 12 gauge wire is about twice as thick as 14 gauge wire think of it as a river where if you're running you know two breaking sections away from one major river the main part of the river needs to be big enough to supply both those sections and so we're going to go ahead and link those in like so we did that for a few things also for anybody wondering what kind of wire this is no this is not romix this is anchor marine tin copper wire complete marine anti-corrosion resistant wire with really really thick marine grade rubber coating it is the best stuff on the market and it is what is required for anybody who's really taking their wiring job seriously nobody else takes pride in their wires the way marine wiring does and that's that way for a reason i wouldn't suggest using anything in marine grade standards it's kind of different it's not actually the tin copper that matters it's the strand count so that's why you may find a trolling motor or some sort of marine electronics that still has standard copper wiring and you're wondering why that's why but true marine grade wiring runs 10 copper so you don't have to worry about the wiring for another 30 years if you would assuming you do it all right we're making sure all the leads come from the main end and we have them all labeled with a label maker that's a huge huge thing making sure all of your wires are labeled that way when you go to link them up to your brain here to all the switches it's more of a seamless process this is just a sheer amount of small wires that i had to run through that major conduit that we ran into the very very top through the live well that we had to seal off this is all bunched up we're gonna clean it all up with some looming and some zip ties but we just want to show you what we had to go through there for the process and we still had to fit a gas tank back in there we are mounting a half-inch aluminum angle out of our kit we supply a lot of that so you can use it for various different things it acts as a really good stopper for your battery so they don't shift around with a bunch of wires connected to them which is really bad now that we have that out of the way we kind of got the main conduit placed for the batteries but we're going to start running all those wires the same way we ran it when we initially had the panel before we dropped it in now we can run all the extra ones while they're in there we're going to go and head and put ring connectors on them and then we're going to heat shrink them right there very tactfully not trying to melt anything else in the process and once we do that we can go ahead and secure them to the appropriate place the power lead to the fuse block and the ground lead to the bus bar next the fuse block this process will take you a while the wiring slows down everything dramatically it might seem like everything else goes fairly fast and then when you get to wiring it might take you a very long time weeks and that's okay that's natural now we are able and ready to wire all those appropriate leads to the appropriate switch panel we have some going to the piggyback 6 gauge there and we have some going to the standalone switches in the back we had to distort one part of the foam i don't feel too bad because the foam was already distorted before i even pulled off the panel next we are going to link that hole because we're gonna be running a bunch of wires from all the electronics and all the other stuff this giant th marine grommet which is used on bigger boats to run the steering cable leads and any other additional wires that go such as the wiring harness for the motors in case you're wondering we have all these parts in our store we have links in the description area below for everything we use in this boat we have a complete parts collection for this boat on our website so you should check out all those things if you need to we're running about a two inch hole here with a hole saw right through the splash guard of the back of the boat we're gonna go ahead and file that down and prep it so there's no knife edge to fray the wires that we're gonna run through that section we're running all the cluster from the back there's almost as annoying of a cluster in the back as there was in the front nice feature we're trying to wrap the wires as neatly as we can in a bundle that way they don't cause problems and mess with each other later a good friend of mine told me to bundle those wires like that because it will help with the way everything works there's so much wires and there's no way to keep them separated so the potential for rf interference is really high and that paranoia is me because there's no other real way to run them and if the rf interference messes the graphs from like actually getting consistent readings there's gonna be a big problem another giant advantage with running tin copper wire is that there's a little bit of rf shielding from the tin copper itself in fact they make tin copper braided expandable sleeving for shielding just for the same actual purpose so there's a pretty good chance that all this will work we just have to have confidence because we're pretty deep right now we have to be doing some insane things part of those insane things in fact when the final prep is linking everything to these batteries these are three dakota lithium batteries these are some of the industry lydian lithium batteries out there they're about the same size as a group 29 or group 30 but they only weigh like 29 30 pounds apiece and that's huge considering we have a serious weight cap to stick to a 1200 pounds with persons motor and gear and a lot of that is often made up by the batteries or three batteries lead acid or agm can weigh as much as like a full grown man with here it weighs a little more like a small child and we really need that weight advantage to pull this whole thing off we are running giant rubber grommets we you can get those packets from harbor freight or we have them on our store on my amazon and on our webstore they're there all day and we're running them through that point zero four zero aluminum sheeting and that's how we're running most of the major wire leads from the switch panel and for the trolling motor wire into there we'll also be running some really awesome products from pro charging system some of the leading industry standard stuff they have the best setup to charge lithium batteries out there and by best i mean the next best competitor is like a far distant second we're going to be running them through like the condos we made up there we had to make some additional conduits and we have to be really careful with how we're running them there because we're going to have to put foam in that actual section once we have all these ran but we're not going to do it we're not going to perform into that section until we know how much wiring and how deep we're in i'm looming all the wires and securing them as i go to reduce the spaghetti effect that generally stresses a bunch of people out when it comes to wiring we are also running the battery optimization system which is bluetooth compatible it's a standalone battery stabilizer make sure you have constant power between all the batteries linked to the units we're also running th marine hydra five point terminals and that's how we're gonna be able to run so many leads from that switch panel from all those different fuse blocks here and it's still going to be successful what you want to avoid is stacking reconnector on top of each other ring connector on top of green protector on top of ring connector causes resistance and it also has like a pyramid effect where the bottom reconnector sucks all the power and then you just kind of get robbed all the way up so these really help i just want to point that out and these are also in the description area below now for the battery connecting connecting all those wires to the batteries kind of stocks it took a really long time yeah yeah that was a lot of finally we still have the uh the meter gauge to hook up but we have to do something to modify one of the extensions we also have what's called the ct unit here which is what allows us to read lithium batteries would you believe that standard setups you cannot get an accurate battery readout not even with any of the other like stock digital gauges the only reason we can even get an accurate readout now is because we have this system and it is attached to the fuel gauge which is specifically meant to run with lithium batteries we have a complete video on this entire setup talking about all the features in the trifecta that these three things the charger the fuel gauge and the boss system have in tandem that make this boat run seamlessly did all of that exhaust you rightfully so if it did take a few days off after you do the electric just to clear your mind and then get back to it because now we're gonna put on the deck you can skip this part if you don't care for it but we wanted to black out the deck with a rubber matting this is gatorskin soft touch it is pretty awesome stuff it's really thin rubber matting that folds like tape do you have here is all the electric that's the panoptix unit the black box and here is the ethernet box over here and all the wiring clusters that are ran through the boat through the side conduit wall all labeled back there managing to get more labels the list never ends just what a crap show see how those wires underneath there and then these wires here those all have to go in there and have to tactfully put this in there too and so there's just a lot of places where this wire is just going to be bundled up and so that's what this this little shim of a sheet metal thing is for it's not under support it's there so i can tactfully mount this clusters of like spools of wire in such a way down the middle channel that it won't be a problem what's really good is though the wire to the battery charger actually ran all the way through is long enough to run here so i'll have the battery charger port right there plus the battery fuel gauge right there and so that'll look really clean right there and then we'll have a just a little port there to hide these wires underneath there there's no other way to do it other than how we're going to do it now we're going to go ahead and take care of some of the last minute pre-wiring and some other things before we pour in the rest of the foam to solidify this front piece once we stick all this poor foam in it'll have more foam than it initially had in the front bench with that styrofoam and it will encase and strengthen those day boxes so you can literally step in them once everything is cured they're super solid they're not going to go anywhere and they won't shut or lose we are now moving on to the lid builder system part of our gen x kit in this kit we give enough aluminum and enough essential brackets and pieces to allow any diy with high skill and simple tools to make aluminum hatches without using a welder we are really proud of this lid system because it empowers the average diy with high skills and just basic tools to be able to make a complex lid system where before even if you were a really skilled diy-er you couldn't put together a list system with basic tools to do whatever this one does it just wasn't possible you needed a welder but now you don't this core piece is the key to attaching pretty much the entire front this needed to be done before anything else but now that we have this out we can measure the proper spots for the day box hatches and for the rest of the hatches this is a .063 sheet of aluminum you can get these from a metal shop generally you can get the entire sheet for fairly cheap if you're running into trouble with that though we do sell kits that give you sheets pre-cut and you should be able to cut any sort of lid you need out of them now that we have those traced properly we make sure to label those bottom and top from the frames to the actual sheets that way you don't get it mixed up because that will cause you big problems so when you have it all lined up it should look like this when you're done use a series of countersink rivets and countersink bits to make sure it's all flat the rivet ends are hidden inside the tubing so you can't see anything and after you carve it or you turf these it just looks like a standard hatch everybody will think it's welded even though it's not we designed this deck specifically for turf we have those hedges fitting so close together within a 1 8 inch gap because when you do that turfing those hatches looks absolutely amazing we're also a big proponent of self-routing turf we self-routed uh the cheap amazon turf we're not gonna use that for the deck this time i did that on my boat i learned my lesson but it will look really good underneath where there's no actual traffic we are also a big fan of just hydro turf in general whether it's pre-routed or lined we have it all in our storage check it out different types for different everything this is orthodeck in specific really good high quality turf because if you're going to sell throughout diy some stuff it needs to be the right kind of turf or it just doesn't do it right we are attaching the first three lids to this core that way when we sit it down it'll be perfectly spaced and then we can go ahead and anchor the core to the middle of the section where we pre-round those wires and dumped all that foam in so the spacing went right that's good if that got screwed up then we'd be really having some problems i had to cut out that little front piece there because there was no other way to actually get the screws down into the bottom tubing to secure this whole thing that's why the little front piece is missing but you can see all that right there before we attach the front piece on make sure everything's good to go all the wiring seems to be legit the foam is in the right place the drain tubes are in the right place for any of the bigger hatches which there are five major hatches that are pretty big we're going to be using this hat channel underneath each of those hatches like so after that's all attached and everything's clean we go ahead and we stick the rest of the turf on and finish the routing job i actually have really good footage of this entire deck being pieced together and then it got botched but the deck came out really nice using the same method we just showed you now we've taken care of the front we've taken care of the middle now it's the back that we have to worry about we still got a ton of wires and we have transducers to hook up we'll go ahead and run these stern mount plates it comes with an entire kit of everything you need including a scouring pad if you have anti-fouling paint it also comes with alcohol swab to clean out the surface so you can mount these like so after following the hummingbird website on the facebook group they said to space them looks like this for the high speed transducer and for the mega si transducer and then we're gonna fit lights right in between there because that's the one place that they can go it's like perfect placing seriously can't make that up come out the high speed transducer the good thing about the stern pad is you can mount transducers and they can undergo pretty high heavy water pressure without actually having to mess up your hole or screw through the bottom of your hole which at this point would be devastating because there's no way we can actually mount a successful back getting all that squared away took a lot longer than i thought if anybody wonders what takes the longest it's right when you think you're about done seems like you're never done there's always some little odd tweak you have to do but eventually we get done we move on to bigger things like these gator back bunks with plush lights installed in them now we're really close to completing everything all we have to do is go take it on the water and test it and make sure everything works it all looks like it's going to work but i tell you you're going to take this thing on the water and then you just don't know me danny this is his boat he ended up selling his giant ranger and just now wants to be a tiny boater so that's all right with me one of the giant advantages to having a tiny boat is that it's not a giant money pit once it's built it's only expensive during the beginning and then after that it's extremely low maintenance to run a tower like boat like this everything looks good everything's ready let's get it going let's see what it's made of this is ridiculous this is like we're both heavy individuals like look at this again with the tipping it's like the boat barely barely barely rolling like i'm like right in the edge right i mean that's like 500 pounds of people yeah in the boats what that's ridiculous so to put it mildly he liked it and so did i it plain two of us which is just under 500 pounds of people plus a full live well plus all gear and it picked up right on point with that 25 horsepower yummy that was a brand new f-21 even got a first fish it's not the fish we wanted but hey any fish to christen the boat is a fish walk out he's gonna make it he's gonna make it all right we'll check on him oh that's fine yeah the liquid hey that keeps on moving speakers is hey music can you please hey they just need a little music you

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Keywords: TBNation, tiny boat nation, jon boat to bass boat, bass fishing, googan squad, FLW, bass boat, fishing boat, aluminum boat, woodworking, DIY, Boat Outfitters, Gator Guards, GatorSkinz, Totalboat, michael lopez, mercury marine, mercury outboard, yamaha, yamaha outboard, evinrude, jon boat modification, Alumacraft, Tracker Boats, Lund, Mini Bass boat, home made bass boat, 14ft Tiny Boat, Alumacraft V14, Alumacraft Boats, #ultimate tiny boat, boat build

Id: Q5uHlOihyRc

Length: 41min 39sec (2499 seconds)

Published: Wed Dec 02 2020