How to Make a Professional Looking Board Game Prototype

so it's a pretty printed play prototyping day today and we're doing burger so Matt over here had the idea that we should document the process and also give you guys an idea of sort of how to make a pin and play and this is the same process that we used for entropy as well as rush to power and also for a bunch of other games prototypes that we've made to date so this is a nice easy way everything that we do we don't use professional grade equipment it's all off-the-shelf easily accessible stuff including the print we just go to our local quick print shop to make them they're easy they're convenient they're available you know they're open on weekends and this is the reason why we use them otherwise we probably would have chosen a better quality print house to do a lot of the prototype but given as a prototype it's slowly fine so see you in a bit I'm too far yeah I like the that in one of them is in a three I think on the file name you should just say three and both of them out on the a3 200 GS m and the a4 is 150 GS and I'll look at how fast yes right need to be on this side so I've got two files that we've got we're going to print one is an a3 page and one is an 8 for size the a4 is used for the smaller tokens whereas the a3 is used for the large cards and for the 8th for the a31 we're actually going to bond the top paper in the bottom paper together two forms and effective about three energy steps whereas the a for 115 is going to be bonded on to adorable so we've got printing and those two that one just in a three-year 200 paper and if you go to print just keep it in actual size and turns a galley a for a three okay thanks okay so it's important to keep to actual size rather than fit so that it the image doesn't actually shrink generally when you have a full bleed that lead is going to get then automatically can calculate it and shrunk this we want to keep it too a property hundred-percent exercise again so I think there's some like 13 pages of this 18:18 sorry 201 yes the charge of our thank you so the place where you got this from they can do up to 300 GSM but if you do to 300 GS MZ you can effective about 450 500 kind of thickness some paper and that's a bit much so 200 GSM and bonded is probably the best yeah and with the with the a for tokens you don't want to go to 200 GSM because what we're going to do is we're going to sandwich the first page top layer and the bottom layer they're both going to be 150 GSM and then little AO is going to be like a one point two millimeter great board bonded together so you don't want to introduce them otherwise there's a lot of white layer they can see on the token itself when you you make it but otherwise yeah this is how you make all you know ask for a print quick print shop normally when you do you know more professional cleaning you would actually not do it this way you would actually have proper bleed and so you sort of cut the bleed out that way you have a much better error margin but given that it's easier to do a single cut to cut the two cards out rather than applying a bleed to the section that you visited cut between which requires more cuts essentially so yeah this is essentially how we make all our game prototypes ruin ours no really yet so at Bunnings everyone look a resistant materials favorite hard ways so what are we doing gonna get some contact adhesive before the prototyping process we use that to bond the two sides of the paper together and - city so what we typically get to contact adhesive it's you can get any waiting any hostile addressed or there's lots of different types this is one we prefer sillies that's interesting we there are actually a few other ones so they these guys the these guys but we find that the the bond on this one is just the right amount I guess also just the quality of the who can we find animals or gums up a lot less with this particular type so you can buy really cheap contact adhesive but you'll find it'll quickly come up and then we come it starts to splatter and you get blobs of blue instead of a nice mist so so what do we use contact adhesives over say what is preferred usually like a PVA glue was just faster mostly yeah it's cleaner and more expensive though it is much more expensive yes the it's a little more forgiving as well then I suppose some other glues because you can reposition it and it's that it's tacky enough that it'll hold nicely it doesn't curl PDA will take at least a couple of hours to set and then another 24 hours to cool completely where is this you give it five minutes to go tacky and get up so for the instant gratification people this is where you want to use also just to give people an idea of the cost and such this one is 1850 Australian dollars it's about what is that 14 volt American and you can probably get about three prototypes so about 250 to 300 cards bonded using doing it this way yeah so if you do the math it's not it's not particularly you know not it and only it's not economical but for the for the kind of things that we do and we want to set a quickly prototype and this is probably the best way to do it definitely so we've set up the home garage as you can see with our stocks of game such but we'll set up several stations around the place and also briefly give you a tour of sort of how we make it everything that you see you can buy in fact we fall in out our local hardware store just down the road which you probably already have seen the quick footage before this and everything you see is just off-the-shelf stuff makes it super easy link so here we've got the cutting station and what to call it over here you've got two different types of roller cutters my preference of these ones they're sturdier these are the 45 millimeter rotary cutters you can get them essentially at any fabric store over here in Australia spotlight they're a little bit pricey but they thick get you like this one I've had we've made probably in good 30 or 40 prototypes on this and I've only had to swap the the blade once so it's pretty good cutting board although preference would not to use this because it really these things are really expensive and you said of wear them out really quickly so your preference would be something harder you know something like this or just a drop of MDF board you know um something like close it something like that but more MDF and that stuff and just put that on and in this cut through using that because you can sort them out easily or you can just go with a nice heavy-duty guillotine this one is particularly good specifically the reason why it's good is because this hold it down that's it which is what guillotines are really good for whereas they deal with the rotary cutters method you sort of have to not only pin down the thing but sometimes it has a tendency to slide underneath the paper slide underneath and when you're cutting it will actually shift so you kind of have to do I do sort of figure it out make sure they use a key not only the pressure down on the paper on this side I also keep brush down on the house mister cut still my preferences already paranoid or something used to it so that's one station now the second station over here is where we would do the assembly the bonding essentially so this is where we would have the papers you would get the contactor ESF stuff would be pondered over there to explain that station Charlotte papers will then be applied front and back this way and then the alignment is particularly important that's all we need plenty of space and lighting to to do this for the coins will do is similar so this will actually be applied this green will cut down and once it gets cut down and the two pieces will be bonded aligned and on both sides and then we cut them down because these are circular we have one punches and that's where the punching station guessing hole punching your stations up these are two different ones that we have this one's a 19 mil and this one's a 24 mil and these we just order them from a hardware store again same thing all you need is a really nice heavy hammer yes put them on then you sort of punch about our where again something a little show and the adhesive part the thing that really that is important is when you're using this get the throw away sheet which is paper round paper and lay them on top ideally you probably want something that we use these up right as a base to see makes it elevate a little bit so that when you have put them on you've just got enough edge carry them basically other than trying to sort of thing user fingernails to try and set it pry them open which is the efficient basically this is the quad ekkada again not very expensive at all was a hundred how much was it hundred twenty develop yeah I mean $20 and it gives you a really nice professional finish or with the cards you should have cut them out with these one strip to them is you have this sort of tendency to be lazy and convenient tell us the stack multiple pay arm papers on them and cut them I'd advise you not to do that mostly because when you cut it has this sort of um the cards will actually slide the cards on the needle slide out and then will you get it will get this sort of um angled sort of corner cutting so you may be able to get away with two or three no more than that but we typically just use one card at a time it's more tedious but you get a more precise cut so that's something that will show you as well - guys this is the spray station we're going to the first sheet which I'll then end off the map we will align it with the top the first thing with the spray adhesive early absolutely you really mix it up anyway you get sediment of lobby pieces that's more than I should get little bumps in the final finish I always just text us and knocking first to make sure it's actually spraying properly and there's no real technique to it you just want to get full coverage too much adhesive it'll become kind of a little bit moist it's not so great if you don't use enough it um when you bond it with the top piece it it doesn't give as great in adhesion so here that nice happy medium character okay so that's the first sheet so we'll just set that aside you want to set it leave it for probably about a minute just again a little bit tackier and at the same time we'll do the the other side so when they come together it was a really nice strong bond okay okay so do you want to do a lot of unity for one initial run toget it's going to get this right okay so a3 paper all you want to do is when I line up the edge at least just the one side of the edge then we want to do is that you want to take it across and just play that way you always go from one side to the other to avoid air bubbles and usually I like to apply none on the long edge that way the ship there's more more room to more accurately it is not doing it that way other than lining it on this edge which then we'll actually get awesome yeah that's essentially it for the binding process it's not too bad and yeah we just have to do that nine times okay so this I'm going to show you two methods guillotine as Alice's preferred method ruler cutting virtually cutting is my preferred but for the guillotine you we've provided a set of blue guidelines and all you need to do is make sure that the blue guidelines actually are aligned edge to edge and once that is done then you place us down this piece will actually hold the the paper down and as you can see you can get a very precise cut this is a very very very little little of the UM the actual print actually come out of it which is our public acceptability sentence and yourself we'll do that while the science I'll show you the cutting exactly the same so you just have to line it up and just apply pressure on okay so we're going to do the corner cutting now Ellen has prepared the cards pretty straightforward has a curved blade on it as a couple of guides which get just enough of the the corner into the cutting area that takes off just enough to your nice rounded corner so the trick is you've got to keep it nice and square to the guides it doesn't take a lot of pressure and of course it didn't cut through that's probably because the glue is still a little bit soft when I salute her we'll try that again so nice and not against the gods nice nice round tough during their first explain what you're doing okay so given that we're doing this is a great board contact method and noticing that at least in the a4 that the the edge to edge they're not quite equal so we're worried that it's going to not line what you then do is want to cut out the edges on those so that we can be confident that this edge and look at this edge and this edge of this edge and this edge would actually then align perfectly so this is one minute I was going to cut it first I'm gonna have to clean that up this is why further we're cutting that ended really so now that we've got once edge cut when we apply this edge if we also cut this and apply to that edge and we're guaranteed that we're not aligning to the edge of the wide which could actually have the inside of the artwork shifted by the printer so that's what we're doing so it's the side of this side so hopefully once this is attached on this edge everything is going to line up just right alright so today this is the word punch station where we do our chipboard tokens so you saw earlier that we we bonded both layers of the tokens to a single grade board now are we going to use one punch which is typically used in leather working and other sorts of machining it just has a knife edge on this side the token will pop out the top when we bash it through so it's pretty low-tech and I just line the punch up with our blue markings and when we're happy with it give it a couple of values of the hammer it should come away really easily and then pops out of the water punch and there's your token experiment so here we have the final game we use the same process that we did for making making the rest of the game on with the Box some we may have to do that as a separate video because there's a lot of a fair amount of moving parts to it but he's using grade board and bond paper so the process is pretty similar to what we have made for the the cards and all the equipment that you see that we've used is exactly the same - to make stuff but we've put our coins in here these are the ones that we punched out and that's the punch board that you see right here will make the coins and cons this is our slam guns I caught back yeah so nice color nice card sort of feel the ingredients people watch the salad one meat side let's see the face map a bottom bun nice little bit of Sheen to it as well as Hagen uncleanness the specials mini yeah it's all looking really good well made using the stuff though I said that we showed you today all up how long did you take us a couple hours lunch time about four hours if there are everything well that's including you know going out getting all this stuff oh yeah that's the dividing piece with a great board my diverse University okay to put yeah not yeah wait till the very end illegals and we'll get matter alright let's only like so you went first in you so I just you

Channel: Rule & Make

Views: 169,573

Keywords: Card Game (Game Genre), Board Game (Game Genre), Prototype (Literature Subject), Tutorial (Media Genre)

Id: f-VZCniz7Mw

Length: 24min 1sec (1441 seconds)

Published: Mon Nov 02 2015