How to make a Langstroth Beehive // Woodworking | I Like To Make Stuff
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Channel: I Like To Make Stuff
Views: 372,976
Rating: 4.9364104 out of 5
Keywords: bee, beehive, langstroth hive, bees, langstroth beehive, langstroth long hive, langstroth, beekeeping, beekeeper, bee beard, bee family, how to, make, woodworking, cedar beehive, diy beehive, diy, bee hive, bee hive removal, beehive removal, beehive removal from house, bee suit, honey, honey bee, bee swarm, wood, outdoor projects, outdoor projects diy, tutorial, bee keeping, honey bees, googleimages, google, images, instagram, facebook, amazon, in, i like to make stuff, electronics
Id: rt2AC9U-fhY
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 15min 46sec (946 seconds)
Published: Thu Oct 03 2019
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I like the way his hive looks but I do see some mis-steps, mainly because he is new to beehives, not to the quality of the build, which it fine. TBF, when I was taught how to make a hive box I had my grandfather's experience being passed on to me. So this post is just to share some of that experience, not critique the video.
The plans he used are plans from beesource.com. That web site is a fantastic resource and those plans are possibly the most downloaded plans, but there is one minor flaw. The finger joints should be reversed from how shown in the detail bubble labeled "Best detail of frame rest." The detail labeled "Option" has the right finger joint orientation, but do not cut the top finger notch in the end piece and leave the rabbet the full 16-1/4" length. Here is a picture of what you want to end up with: https://i.imgur.com/b8F8Pm0.png. Whether you cut 3/4" or 1" finger joints, you should end up with a 5/8" wide 3/4" deep finger at the top edge of the side pieces. Now trim the top 5/8" wide fingers to 3/8" long. On the end piece, do not cut the last finger notch. If you use 3/4" box joints the end piece top edge finger is 1-1/8" wide. If you use 1" finger joints it is 1-5/8" wide. Cut the rabbet so it is the full 16-1/4" length of the board, leaving the flange running the full width. Now that clipped finger on the side board will set in the frame rabbet, closing it off, and reinforcing the rabbet. The rabbet as shown in the plans runs from inside edge to inside edge. The unsupported 3/8" wide flange in the plans can easily break off while prying propolized frames loose, ruining a bee box. By reversing the finger joints the rabbet runs from outside edge to outside edge, fully bracing the ends, and is a lot stronger. This is how commercial boxes you buy from most suppliers are made.
For a screened bottom board you should use #8 hardware cloth, not window screen. The window screen is too fine to allow pests and hive debris to fall through, and first time you attempt to scrape it clean with your hive tool you'll rip it.
I need to start a youtube channel
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That's a pretty docile hive.
Some serious finger joints