How to Make a Hoodie - Sewing from Scratch - Tock Custom - How to use a Sewing Machine

hi everyone I am Tok custom and on today's video we are gonna be showing you how to sew your very own custom hoodie from scratch right now and this is kind of an intermediate level sewing project so I'm gonna skip some of the beginner level techniques assuming you guys know that if you have any questions please let me know afterwards otherwise we're gonna show you step-by-step on how to make this from cutting fabric all the way to finishing your hoodie the materials you're gonna need to make your hoodie are some kind of a fabric either a sweater net or in this case we're gonna be using a blizzard fleece you're gonna need a long separating zipper in plastic or metal this is a 30 inch separating zipper something to cut your fabric with and a sewing machine in this case we're gonna be using the brother st 150 and you'll need a pattern so we're gonna be using the berta men's hoodie pattern I will look up what the actual model number is and put that in the comments below so this is everything that you need to make your hoodie alright so we've got all of our pattern pieces laid out and I've got my fleece folded in half and my fold line is right here and I always start with the back panel of most of my projects because this needs to be cut on the fold line so I'm not going to cut here so that when I cut this out the back panel will open to one large piece then everything else you're gonna have two of okay so as I'm cutting out the waistband here I'm also cutting this on the fold line so that when I'm done cutting this out this will open up to one very long piece it's also important that you cut this the correct grain line otherwise it won't stretch the way it needs to because you need this to be able to stretch side to side so don't cut it up and down on the fabric cut it side to side same thing for the wrist cuffs make sure you cut these the correct grain way so that they stretch this way otherwise you won't be able to get your hand to remove the end of your sleeve so once you've got everything cut out it should look something like this we've got our wrist cuffs waist band back panel front panels front pockets or hood our hood facing and our sleeves make sure you cut out all of your notches from your pattern and now we get to start going into all of the sewing steps right now the first step I usually like to do with the hoodie is to do the hood so what you need is your hood panels and you need your hood facing panels here so fleece doesn't always have a right side and a wrong side but once in a while one side would look better so try to make sure that when you put your panels together you've got the good-looking sides touching each other so what we're gonna end up doing is we're gonna do a stitch all the way along the curved edge and every stitch I do is gonna be a 5/8 of an inch seam allowance and then we're going to do one right here across the top of our hood facing so I'm gonna go ahead and pin these panels together so that we can get a nice straight stitch all the way along so now we're gonna take this over to our machine and we're gonna do these stitches right here okay so we're at our sewing machine I am using white bobbin thread because we've got a nice light colored fabric and I have white thread coming through the top of the machine here and I'm going to start and stop every seam with a back stitch so I'm gonna start good back stitch all the way through and and with a back stitch alright so we have a nice solid stitch on our hood lining and when I open this up we've got a nice smooth seam all right now for the hood it's just the same thing except it's just a longer stitch and the fabric curbs so just make sure you curve with the fabric and that should be fine alright so our hood is stitched all the way and if I open this up you're gonna see a nice smooth seam on the outside of our hood now we have a few different options for handling the seam on the inside itself so we've got two raw edges of fleece here so you can either trim this with scissors so it's really short next to the stitches you can do a zig zag stitch over it to lock it together or if you have an overlock machine or a serger you can surge this edge so that it stays nice and polished on the inside I will be surging all of my own seams but you guys can do whatever you're comfortable with okay so I'm going to show you another thing that I like to do every time I do a surge seam like this one is I'm going to lay it flat and I'm gonna iron my seam to one side I usually go to the right side now that's gonna lay flat to the right so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna flip this over and take this over to my regular sewing machine and I'm gonna do a top stitch with white thread that goes from here all the way down to the bottom what that's gonna do is it's gonna lock this whole seam on to one side so it's always gonna stay nice and flat and you're not going to get any bunching at all so again I'm going to do this with as well it's just gonna be a little bit harder to see because the whole scene curves so I'm gonna do my best to just make sure that the fabric stays nice and flat okay so we're back in our sewing machine and I can see that my seam is falling in this direction so when I flip this over I know and I can feel that the seam is on this left side here so I'm going to do a top stitch all the way down from the front to the back of the hood about a quarter inch from the seam now this takes a little bit of practice but it's not too bad if you kind of pull the seam apart while you're doing this it'll make sure that that seam lays nice and flat okay so now that that's all top stitch this is what our seam looks like okay so you got this cool little texture here and you don't see a lot of hoodies that have that so it looks kind of handmade and it gives it a cool little texture right down the center okay and as one more example this is our hood facing so we can see that our seam is laying this way after we ironed it I'm going to top stitch over where that seam is so now we've got a nice top stitch seam and our seam on the inside is not going to move at all all right now for the rest of this video I'm not gonna show all the surging and overlocking and the top stitching and stuff like that I'm just gonna show you the basic instructions so and that's how I do all my seams on hoodies in some other garments but you can do things however you want to do them now grab your hood facing and what we're gonna do is we're gonna turn over a little bit of fabric and we're gonna iron this down all the way across and we're gonna do this on the edge that's a little bit shorter so you can see this edge has a curl so the one that's on the inside we're gonna be curving this about one seam allowance I'll explain why we did this in just a second but now we are going to take our hood and our hood facing we're gonna get ready to pin these together so what we're gonna do is we're gonna take our hood and find the center middle and then we are going to put right sides together like this okay I'm going to put a pin here to hold this in place now what we're gonna do is we're gonna pin this edge all the way across until we get to the edge here and this should kind of match the way that this hood facing curves so I'm gonna pin the side first and if I kind of stretch this the fabric should kind of line up by itself so I'm just going to go ahead and pin everything in between the center in this edge so that these raw edges are nice and flush with each other okay now I'm going to do the same thing to the other side all right so what you should have is your hood facing completely pinned all the way from the left side to the center all the way down to the other right side what we're gonna do is we're gonna start right here seam allowance from this edge we're gonna sew all the way here all the way through the center all the way to the other edge so you should have your hood lining sewn to the hood itself no and I just took some scissors and I trimmed the seam so it was about a quarter inch from where our threads were so now what we're gonna do is you're going to flip your hood over like this and I'm gonna pull my lining over like this and the way that we press the lining earlier so that there is that little loop there is we're going to fold this so that the wrong sides are together and that that raw edge is hidden on the inside of this lip right here alright so now what we need to do is we're gonna iron so that this seam is as close to the edge as you can get it and I'm just gonna go all the way down this side and then we're gonna do the other side all right excellent so we've got our lining in place and the raw edge should be tucked underneath here so what I'm gonna do is right under this edge I'm gonna take the tip of a needle and I'm gonna put it through both layers of fabric I'm we're going to pull it out and I want to make sure that the head of my needle is on the inside of the hood here and we're gonna pin this lining in place all the way from the center to each side all the way around all right now that we've got that all pinned in place what I'm going to do is I'm going to do a stitch as close as I can to the inside of this edge here all the way around to the center front and then all the way to the other side here and I'm going to pull out the pins as I go along all right so we finished our stitch all the way on the inside and I got really close to that edge so it looks really clean and now on the outside we've got this really cool texture and the lining is gonna add a lot of extra strength to the hood so it's not gonna look too flimsy and when you're done you should have something that looks a lot like this if you see any like rippling or puckering in your fabric it's okay if you want to go back and just iron this out so it's nice and flat but this one looks just fine to me all right so now that our hood has done if you want to try it on to see how it's gonna look it's gonna look something like that and I really like the lining on these hoods because it keeps it you know looking nice and crisp and it's not gonna like flop around and stuff all right the next thing we're gonna do is prepare our pockets for our front panels on our hoodies so what we're gonna do is this big cleft edge right here all we're gonna do is just fold this over so it matches up with the edges like that and we're just gonna iron that down okay so that looks good now the way the pattern wants you to do this is it wants you to do a triple top stitch all the way across this diagonal edge because your hand is gonna go in right here you can do this however you want but I will do a triple top stitch the way it shows and I will show you guys how I do this stitch just so you can see how it looks alright so we've got our pocket fabric ready and pressed so what we're gonna do is right on this edge of the presser foot I'm gonna line up the fabric right on that edge I'm going to lower my presser foot okay so I'm gonna do a back stitch I'd either run just like I always do okay so now we have a stitch that looks like that right on the edge okay so the next thing I'm gonna do is I'm gonna line up this edge of my presser foot with the stitch that we just did so it's gonna be equally distant from the edge as it was from that last stitch now we've got two stitches which gives it kind of a cool texture so I'm going to do the same thing where I'm gonna match up the edge of my foot with the second stitch we just did and do a third stitch all the way across all right so now we've got this kind of triple stitch texture which looks really good and this is the part where your hand goes in so this should stay nice and strong if you have any extra fabric on the back you can trim this off if you want to I usually don't because it doesn't matter but that looks really good and now I am going to do my second pocket and then show you what is the next step so your pockets should look something like this with our top stitching in place and I think that looks really cool so now what we're gonna do is we're gonna flip these over so that you see kind of the raw edges there okay at this point we're gonna roll over some fabric okay so we're just gonna do the top and the outside of the pocket so I'm just gonna roll this over by about one seam allowance which is 5/8 of an inch so once we've got these pressed I'm just gonna set these aside and we are gonna get our front panels ready so I've got my front panels here and if you look at your pattern it should have a line and a little diagonal according to the size of which hoodie you're making so we're doing the large one so I'm gonna follow this line here and if I lay my pocket flat all of the edges of this should kind of fit perfectly with my front panel so what we're gonna end up doing is stitching from right here all the way to the inside and then we're gonna stitch from this corner here all the way to the bottom of our front panel and as a totally optional step something I'm gonna do is I'm gonna do an embroidery of an image right here because this is for a commission for a friend of mine so before I do my pockets I'm gonna do my embroidery first and then we're gonna move on to stitching our pockets into place I'd like to invite you guys to check out my website at taco stem com I not only have a lot of pictures of things I've made in the past but I also have an online shop and you can browse through some of that stuff and I have a brand new tutorials menu on my website where you can see all my other videos and check out recommendations of other tools that I use so it's kind of a sewing resource to help people who are getting into the craft so now that I am done with this little embroidery right here we can get back to doing these front pockets so I'm going to grab my pattern and place it over a front right panel and then I'm gonna mark with chalk right where this line is here I'm just gonna mark that with chalk and then all right where it starts to split down I'm gonna put a little mark right there and I'm gonna do the same thing for the other side okay so it might be kind of hard to see my chalk marks on camera here but I can see if that this pocket should line up about right here and I'm going to just make sure that the raw edges are even with this whole inside edge here in the corner and that pocket should look just like that we do the same thing with the other side and it's really important that you do your best to make sure that the top of the pockets line up with each other so that when you put this together everything looks nice and even and symmetrical so what we're gonna end up doing is we're gonna stitch the top of the pocket and then we're gonna stitch the outside of the pocket here so I'm going to pin all of these layers together and then when we're done pinning we're gonna take this over to our sewing machine and stitch these into place alright so now that we got our pockets ready I'm just gonna feed our fabric into the machine and this is the top part of the front pocket so I like to do like a double or triple back stitch just to make sure these pockets stay nice and strong forever so I'm gonna get as close as I can to this edge I know it's kind of hard to see but right on the edge of where that fabric is folded over I'm going to really close to that edge so I did kind of a double back stitch I'm just gonna edge stitch all the way to the edge of this fabric alright so that is one down and it should look something kind of like this you see our triple stitch goes up and then this is sewn in place and then we've got a nice solid stitch over the top of that pocket alright now for the side part of the pocket we're going to do the same thing where I'm gonna line this up with where that pin is I'm going to lower my foot I'm going to put my needle down where I want this to start and I'm gonna do that same double back stitch and now I'm just gonna edge stitch all the way down the side and then end with another back stitch okay so now we've got our main pocket stitches done and you're gonna notice that this edge on the front and the edge on the bottom those are open still so we're gonna base those together if you don't know to basting stitches it's just a really long temporary stitch just to hold fabric together so on this particular machine to do a basting stitch all we're gonna do is just set the stitch length to maximum which in this case is 5 millimeters ok so now we're going to baste stitch from the top of the pocket all the way down to the corner and we're gonna pivot and go all the way across and I want to keep this within the seam alone so you don't see those stitches so it's gonna be really close to the edge also with base stitching it's not important to backstitch on the front or end but this is just so that the fabric will stay together because we're gonna end up sewing a zipper over this seam right here and then on the bottom that's where our waistband of our hoodie is gonna go so all that stuff is gonna get hidden later all right so our front pockets are done now our front panels are completely finished and you should be able to put your hand in the pocket see how it feels and everything here looks good now we finally get to start putting some panels together and making the actual hoodie so move these aside for just a moment and pull out your back panel now you should have cut this on the fold line oh you should be able to just open up your back panel okay now I want this to be right side up and this side seems to look a little bit better than the other side so I want this right side up and I'm gonna take my front panels and I'm going to match up these shoulder seams right here and we are going to pin these shoulder seams into place and actually while we're doing this we might as well do our side seams too so we're gonna have our shoulders pinned and then this side seam we're going to do the same thing I'm just gonna match up these edges and we're gonna pin those together as well all right so what we're gonna do is we're gonna do our top shoulder seams and then we're gonna do our side seams here after I'm done with those I'm going to overlock stitch these and these and then I'm going to press them and then I'm gonna do my top stitches the tops and the sides you don't have to do all those extra steps if you don't want but it's something I like to do to make my hoodies look polished alright so we just finished doing our shoulder seams and our side seams and after I surged and in my top stitch I have that cool little texture like we had on the hood from earlier so I really like the way this looks but you guys do what works for you so since we have all of our shoulder and side seams done you should be able to put your hoodie on by now so I can try this on just to see how it fits so far now it'll be a little short because we don't have our bottom waistband on but I can see that this seems to fit fine and my pockets work which is great so the next step we're going to do is we're gonna take our completed hood that we did earlier and we're going to sew this to the neckline this part is really easy so let's jump into that alright so to put our hood on what we're gonna do is we're gonna take our hoodie and we're going to open it up so you can see the back panel and you should have one nice long neck line from your front panels right to the center back here okay so first we have to find our center back so I'm gonna match up our shoulder seams here I'm gonna fold the back in half and I'm just gonna put a pin right in that fold so I know exactly where the center of my back panel is which is right where those pin is alright now grab your hood and you're going to put right sides together so you should be able to see the inside of your hood here so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna match up where my center seam is with that pin that we just put there and we are going to pin these two Center parts together now when you were cutting out your pattern if you cut out your notches on the hood there should be two notches right here so these correspond with where the shoulder seam is that we did earlier so all I want to do is match up that notch with each shoulder seam and then what I want to do after that is I'm going to hold this so that this edge of our hood with the lining goes absolutely parallel with the front edge of our front panel here and you'll see why when we end up sewing this together so that you've got a nice straight flat edge when we end up sewing this together and we're gonna do the same thing for the other side so I've got my hood with the lining edge we're gonna line it up with the front here and I am going to pin that right on the edge okay now there's a couple of gaps between where the fabric is so I want to make sure these all stay perfectly flush so to put some extra pins just to make sure that all of this stuff stays flat and if the fabric doesn't seem to match up don't forget you can kind of stretch the fabric to force it to line up with itself okay so once you have your hood pin to the rest of your hoodie all we're gonna do is we're gonna stitch from here all the way straight across on the same 5/8 of an inch seam allowance all the way to here and I'm gonna do a back stitch on either end all right so our hood is now sewn to the rest of our hoodie and I actually ended up doing my little top stitch all the way across because I just think it looks so much better just has a little extra close up here when you do that extra top stitch it just adds such a cool little texture that you don't really see in store-bought clothes so this is just a little extra step I like to do to make my clothes look a little bit more unique okay now that the hood is done you can try it on to see how it fits and see how it looks and the next thing we're gonna do is the waistband now you're gonna notice that the waistband panel is quite a bit shorter than the actual hoodie and the reason for that is this is supposed to stretch like this so that when you end up sewing this together it's going to grab the hoodie and stretch it together and that kind of keeps it tight around your waist so that it doesn't look all flimsy at the bottom so I'm gonna show you how to do that right now okay so grab your waistband panel and I want to find the side that looks good so what we're gonna do is we're gonna fold this in half lengthwise so that the pretty end is on the outside okay all right after I match up all my edges I'm gonna start to pin this together starting in the middle and kind of working my way outside all right now what we're gonna do is we're gonna do a zig zag or a lightning bolt stitch all the way across here if you do a straight stitch this will not be able to stretch it's really important you do that so I am gonna show you how I do this stitch on the machine right now all right now in this particular machine and most brother machines they have something that's kind of like a I call it a lightning bolt stitch and on this machine it's number 4 you can also do a zig zag stitch which is number 5 but not a number 4 stitch here is a little bit more of a thin low profile that will allow your fabric to stretch so here I'm turning the dial until it says 4 which is going to correspond with this here and you can change some of the settings with these buttons to make the stitch a little bit longer or if you want it a little bit wider but usually the standard settings are just fine so when you're doing one of these zigzag or lightning bolt stitches you will not be able to do a back stitch but you don't need to so all I'm gonna do is just start and I'm gonna kind of edge stitch this since we're gonna end up sewing this into a panel later so I'm just going to start at one end and we're going to go all the way down to the other end okay that was perfect so now you can tell that when I pull on this the threads are able to stretch and nothing's gonna break if you did a straight stitch and you pulled on this it either wouldn't move or the threads would just snap so this is the way that you want to handle doing stretch fabrics okay now that we've got our waistband done and this is nice and stretchy I like to iron the edge that we did not sew so that it stays nice and sharp the reason I don't iron this before I sew it is because sometimes if I iron it first and then I stitch it it becomes uneven or it'll start to kind of warp or wrinkle in a weird way so I would like to sew at first and then I do my ironing and that helps it look a little bit more flat all right so we are ready to put our waistband onto our hoodie so the first thing I want to do is I'm going to fold our waistband in half and right where the fold is I'm going to put a pin there so I know exactly where halfway is and then I'm gonna fold the whole hoodie in half and right where that fold is there is where my half way if Mark in the middle of the back is I've got a pin here and a pin here so all I'm gonna do is this is the sewn edge of our waistband so I'm going to flip this up like that and I'm gonna pin these two Center points together first now do your best to make sure that all of the layers of fabric are completely flush and even with each other so after I've got my center back done I'm gonna stretch this all the way to the edge of the fabric here and I'm gonna put a pin in that now when you let go you're gonna see that this is gonna want to now this way and it's gonna start to bunch up a little bit and that is totally normal now I'm gonna do the same thing with the other side I'm gonna hold the center and must pull this waistband as much as I can until those corners all meet up with each other and I'm gonna put a pin through all of those layers as well okay now when I do this I like to work in kind of halfway increments so I'm gonna hold the center and my left side here I'm gonna pull these tight and then I'm going to try to get to my center point with up those fabrics moving and I'm gonna put a pin right in the middle I'm gonna do this again on the outside where I'm going to pull this tight so the panels of fabric are flush I'm gonna hold the center and I'm gonna put a pin there as well and I'm gonna kind of work my way around and just pull it tight enough to where the fabric is not bunching anymore hold it with your thumbs and then put a pin there I'm gonna do the same thing for the other side and if you need to use more pins go for it just go crazy with pins until this whole thing looks nice and flat all right so this is all pinned together now if you look at it you can see that the hoody side is all kind of puckered together and that's totally normal what we're gonna do is when we're selling this on the machine we're gonna kind of stretch the fabric while we're sewing it and then when we're done sewing it's gonna relax back together except all of this stuff is gonna be sewn together and it's gonna pull that waistband together hugging around your hips because this technique is a little bit new I am gonna show you how I do this on the machine as well all right so we've got our waistband pinned into place and I want to sew this on the side that is the front of the hoodie so the part that puckers up I want this on top because what we're gonna do is we're gonna pull it tight and then we're gonna be able to sew that I also want to be able to see where my basting stitches are from where we sewed that front pocket together and this edge here we want to make sure that we sew on the left side of these stitches so that it hides all those stitches in the seam so what I'm gonna do I'm gonna keep this on that lightning bolt or zig-zag stitch and we're gonna line up all of these edges on our regular 5/8 of an inch seam allowance okay now I'm all set up and you can see that the fabric is already puckering right here and that's okay so I'm just gonna do a quick start stitch okay now let me zoom out a little bit okay now as we're sewing along I'm gonna find the next pin that I've got in place and I'm gonna hold this pin and pull the fabric nice and tight so that all of these edges are completely flush here and you don't want to pull too tight you just want to pull tight enough to where that fabric is flush now I kind of sew and if you see that it starts bunching up here you can grab the fabric in the back so I'm both pulling it in the back and in the front to keep the fabric nice and tight okay when I get to this first pin I'm gonna reach underneath and I'm gonna pull that pin out then I'm gonna do the same thing so this is puckering here so I'm gonna find my next pin which is our first side seam I'm gonna pull this tight so that everything is nice and flush on this edge here I'm gonna kind of hold it in the back and I'm gonna just start my stitch keep going and you're just gonna keep doing this all the way until you get to the other side of your hoodie and by the time you're done you're gonna have a nice waistband all right now as we're finishing up here I just want to show you that these are the stitches that we did to baste the bottom of our front pocket together so as long as I stitch on the left side of that you're never going to see those stitches all right so when we're done with our waistband stitch you're gonna see a whole bunch of raw edges of fabric here and I really want to thin this out so what I always do is i Serge this whole seam right here so that it's really thin and a serger will do a stretchy stitch as well you can also trim it really short and do a zigzag over it or whatever you're comfortable with okay so when you're done you should have something that looks kind of like this so you can still see it's kind of puckering here but this whole waistband is just designed so that it fits your waist nice and snug then if it needs to stretch it definitely still can do that and this will kind of snap to grab around your waist something I forgot to do is this is the bottom of the waistband right here and it's open I usually like to just kind of base this shut right on the edge because we are gonna sew a zipper that starts right at the bottom and it's gonna go all the way up to the top where the hood is so real quick I'm just gonna baste these on each side together so that it's a little bit easier to get the zipper on alright so this is looking really good so far and we are now at the point where we're gonna put our zipper in the front now I know zippers scare the hell out of a lot of people so I'm gonna do my best to really break this down and simplify it so that you guys know exactly what you're doing now the first thing I need to mention is that this zipper is like 30 inches and I only need it to go up to right where the hood starts so I'm gonna measure from where the hood starts all the way down to the bottom and that tells me it is 24 inches now this is a 30 inch zipper so I'm gonna show you how to shorten a zipper if you need to otherwise just by a 24 inch zipper okay so shortening a zipper is actually really easy and I'm gonna make this really simple so I need my zipper to be 24 inches and right now it's like 30 inches so this is the bottom where it's gonna separate and I need this to be this long so what I'm gonna do is just take a marker and I'm gonna mark just after 24 inches so I know exactly where I need this zipper to end right here then I want to make sure that my zipper pull is about halfway down as long as it's within that 24 inch length of zipper all right so what we're gonna do is we're gonna take this to the sewing machine and I'm gonna show you how to do a little bar stitch over the zipper teeth so that's gonna make a zipper stop for us and then we can just cut all the extra stuff away all right so I lost the footage of me showing you how to shorten a zipper so I'm gonna do it again so that you guys know so what I want to do is set my machine to a zig-zag stitch which is number 5 on this machine and what I want to do is I want to go like 5 millimeters wide and I'm gonna set my stitch length to zero and that's gonna keep the machine from moving the zipper at all okay okay so just pretend that this is a blue zipper and the yellow chalk marks are where I put the marker okay so what we want to do is I'm gonna line up my zipper with where our marker lines are I'm gonna put the foot down and I'm gonna turn the needle by hand to make sure I don't accidentally hit the teeth and then it's gonna snap to the left and I'm gonna make sure it doesn't hit the teeth that way now when I hold my foot down this is gonna really quickly go back and forth and put a bunch of thread there okay now when I pull this up I'm just gonna trim the thread so now what we've got is a big knot of white fabric there and that's gonna act as our new zipper stop and I'm gonna do this to the other side too so I'm gonna line up my machine right where that marker line is and put the zipper teeth right in the very center and then I'm going to very slowly do this by hand again to make sure it doesn't hit my zipper I'm gonna go real fast and then I'm gonna pull up my needle and trim my thread okay so now as you can see I've got two white knots of fabric where we want our new zipper stop to be so I'm gonna zip this up and now the zipper pull will not be able to go past where those knots are I can still go down but I won't be able to go past that now that we've got our zipper Stoppers in place all we have to do is just take pair of scissors and it doesn't matter if your zipper is metal or plastic but I'm just gonna cut right between the teeth and now we just shortened our zipper so these I can throw away and now we've got the proper length to do a zipper for our hoodie so that is how you shorten a zipper all right so our zipper is all set here and I went with this blue zipper so that it would kind of catch the colors of the blue that we did in the embroidery and I think that's a good color scheme all right before we get started something I am gonna do is when you're sewing in a zipper it's really important that the fabric doesn't stretch at all otherwise you're gonna get like puckers and ripples and your zipper so I'm gonna stitch from the bottom all the way up to this side on either side and just do a regular straight stitch it's called a stay stitch and it's gonna keep the fabric from stretching while we're sewing in our zipper so I'm gonna do that real quick all the way up all right so these are stitched all the way up so those edges won't stretch which is good and I want to apologize for being overly thorough but it took me making about ten hoodies before I figured out all these little tips and tricks that I'm trying to teach you guys so I really hope it does help now we are finally at the part where we're gonna put our zipper in so what we want to do is I'm gonna line this up kind of in the middle now obviously this side is gonna go on this side the side is gonna go on this side all right so what I want to do is I want to unzip our zipper and separate it at the bottom now I'm gonna take the I guess so this would be the left side and I'm gonna put it over here and the right side and put it over here okay now this is the part that's not so bad all you have to do is flip over the zipper so that the teeth are on the outside and it's really hard to pin a zipper with pins you can do it if you have to but I've got these little wonder Clips alright so what I'm gonna do is I'm going to line up the bottom corner of my zipper with my hoodie and I'm gonna put a clip right here and instead of clipping the top first I'm actually going to just make sure this stays nice and flush I'm gonna put a clip of every three inches or so you don't have to pull it too tight it's not going to stretch you just have to make sure everything lays nice and flat okay now at the top I've probably made the zipper stop a little bit longer than I needed to it's okay if it goes a little bit into the hood that's not a problem okay so now I'm going to kind of move this to the side we're gonna do the same thing where I want my zipper teeth on the outside and we're gonna line up the raw edge of the fabric of the zipper with the fabric of the hoodie I'm just gonna clip this all the way up okay now our zipper is completely clipped all the way up and we're gonna go over to the sewing machine and I'm gonna show you exactly how we're gonna put the zipper on here all right so this is I've never done like an actual zipper tutorial so this is gonna be me doing my best but this is a zipper foot it should come with most of your sewing machines that you buy but it's got two settings you can set it on the left side or the right side so the way you put this in is on the back of my presser foot there's a little lever if I just press it down this one's gonna fall right out and slide away okay put this somewhere where you're not gonna lose it okay so what I'm gonna do is I'm going to set my zipper foot so it's gonna connect to the left side and then I'm just gonna lower my presser foot it's gonna grab on to the bar and now it is part of our machine so what the zipper foot does is it gives you all this empty space on the left or the right side in this case we needed empty space on the left side because all of our zipper teeth are on the left here so what I'm gonna do is I'm going to take out my first clip and I'm gonna line this up so that the edge of the left side of my zipper foot is just barely touching the teeth okay I'm gonna lower my presser foot we're gonna do a straight stitch no zigzag no lightning bolt we're gonna do a straight stitch all the way down to the bottom and take the clips out as you go and I am gonna do a back stitch here because I want the zipper to stay nice and strong okay if you need to go slow that's fine but don't stretch the fabric just take out your clips and take your time when you get to the bottom if the zipper itself gets in your way you can make sure the needle is down raise your foot up and you should be able to kind of sneak the zipper pull past your machine so that there's a little less bulk you can lower the foot back down and then finish your stitch all right so now we're gonna do the other side and I'll show you what's next now I would I just wanted to take a second to show how this works so we stitched our zipper on the outside and what's gonna happen is we're going to turn that seam to the inside and we're gonna be left with all of our blue zipper teeth sticking out to the side so I'm gonna try this on to make sure that it fits well and then what we're gonna end up doing is top stitching this whole thing into place so it's gonna keep it locked like that forever all right so let's hope this works all right so it's it fur and it goes up and actually that was pretty easy there so now I've got a sleeveless hoodie and the hood should fit just fine so it looks like that so now actually everything looks pretty clean right now but because we want to keep that seam on the inside of the zipper looking sharp we're gonna show you how to top stitch it so that it always looks the same yeah this thing is in so bad okay so here's the inside of our hoodie right here and we just sewed the zipper to the outside right so what we want to do is we are going to just kind of half flip this fabric we're gonna pull it real tight so that just the zipper teeth are sticking out and it's not really going to stay like that by itself so what I'm gonna do is I'm going to be very careful and I'm gonna iron everything so that it stays nice and sharp and I don't want to iron these zipper teeth because they're plastic I don't think they'd melt but I just want to be careful so I'm gonna iron this all the way down on both sides if you have a metal zipper you don't have to worry about melting the teeth but I am just pulling this real tight so that we've got a nice flush zipper and some of these little seams like where the waistband is are gonna give you a little bit of trouble when it comes to getting that flat but you will be able to do it okay so I have insist this yet but just after having pressed that you can see that this is now nice and flat and I can see all of my zippers all right so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna top stitch probably with the zipper foot from the top here all the way down as close as I can to the edge of that yellow fabric all the way through this pocket and all the way down to the bottom of our waistband and that's gonna keep the zipper locked in place so that it's never gonna move and it's always gonna stay nice and clean when you're ironing the side that has the zipper pulls just zip them out of the way when you're ironing and then you can move them back when you're ready all right so now that we are going to be doing our top stitching the zipper teeth are on the other side so what we have to do is switch our zipper foot from the left side we're gonna just drop it move it over to the right and lower the presser foot and now this is set up to do that on the other side so this is the right side of the fabric and what we're gonna do is I'm gonna line up the needle right where the edge of the yellow fleece is okay I'm gonna lower my foot and I'm gonna get as close as possible to the edge of this yellow maybe a little bit to the left of it and now I am going to do a little back stitch chaim the idea is underneath this there should be that seam that we just made from the first stitch we did on the zipper so what we're doing is we're holding that seam in place behind so I'm gonna sew this all the way down and when you get to the seams of where the pockets are it's okay to go a little slow and you can kind of tug on the fabric from the back to just help it kind of get over that little seam there okay now I'm gonna do a nice heavy back stitch at the bottom so that never comes apart okay so I can tell that behind where the waistband seam was that was pretty thick I probably should have trimmed that out with some scissors before I did this because I got a little bit lumpy in there but everything else looks really smooth so I'm really happy with the way this looks alright so now we're just gonna stitch up the other side of the zipper and when we're done with this we are done with the zipper all right we are all done with our zipper on both sides so let's go see how this looks all right we are officially done with our zipper and I hope you guys had a pretty easy time getting that going and as I can see this is nice and straight and flat if you're not careful sometimes the zipper can kind of pucker but we've got a nice smooth finish on this one okay so the last thing to do with our hoodie is to put the sleeves and the cuffs on so we are gonna get started on that right now alright so to get started on our sleeves you're gonna need your sleep panels and your wrist cuff panels something that I need to note is there are two notches on your sleeves the top Center one is where your shoulder seam comes together at the shoulder of your hoodie and this notch here marks the front panel of your hoodie so keep that in mind as you're putting these together alright so to get ready to do our sleeves I've got the right side facing up so what I want to do is I'm going to fold this in half we're gonna sew this long edge together here ok so we've got these edges pinned I'm gonna do a straight stitch on each of those and then I'm going to Serge them but I'm not going to top stitch those now we have both sleeves are sewn Insurge so what we're gonna end up doing is just taking our sleeves and turning it right-side out so you should see a nice clean seam which is gonna run underneath your arm and then on my left sleeve I decided I want to do a little talk custom embroidery that matches the color scheme from our hoodies so I think that looks really good there all right the next step is our wrist cuff so all we're gonna do is we're going to fold these in half this way and make sure that you've got right sides together and then we're just going to pin these edges and then we're going to sew along these edges right here now we have our wrist cuffs so these are sewn in surged now all I want to do is just take them and I'm going to turn this half way out so that the seam is on the inside and I'm going to try to match up the seam so they're both in the middle and once you get it to lay flat it should look like this now keep in mind it should stretch this way so if it doesn't stretch that way you might have to recut it and remake these okay so the cups are done but I like to baste these edges together so that when we put this on the sleeve it stays nice and flush so I'm going to put this in my machine and I'm just gonna very carefully stitch all the way around so that all these layers aren't loose there they're nice and basted together all right so these are all done and I ended up doing that lightning bolt stitch so that these would stay nice and stretchy if you end up doing a straight or a base stitch the threads will snap if you stretch them alright so now we're gonna put our cuff on our sleeve so make sure that you've got your sleeve turned right side out so the seam should be hidden on the inside now what you want to do is you want to get the side with the raw edges that we just sewed together and you're going to kind of bunch up your sleeve and you're gonna put it all the way through the cuff and kind of open this up now what I'm looking for is I want to match up the seam on the sleeve which is right here with the seam on the cuff okay so that it's gonna go kind of like that okay and this works a lot like the waistband did where we're gonna pin the middle which is where the seams are here and then you're gonna notice that if there's gonna be a lot of bunching in there so what you want to do is you want to stretch the fabric as much as you can so that the edges get flushed like that okay so I'm looking to kind of even them out and then I'm gonna pinch where I think the center's are and I'm gonna put a pin through that now between those two pins which I'm holding I'm going to pull this real tight and try to even up these layers of fabric here just like that and I'm going to grab where the middle is and I'm gonna put a pin through that okay then we're gonna do the same thing on the other side okay so one more time I've got those two ends and I'm gonna even up the fabric so that when I pull it tight they're flush with each other now right in the middle I'm gonna put a pin right here all right that looks pretty good so you can see that there's still quite a bit of floppy fabric but again as you're sewing it you're gonna want to keep the fabric pulled tight so that everything comes together and then when you let go it's going to kind of relax a bit which is gonna grip onto your wrist a little bit now this can be kind of tricky so I am gonna bring this over to the Machine and show you how I do this okay so I've got my sleeve here and don't forget that it has to be right side out and then you should have the raw edges of your cuff touching the raw edge of your sleeve now to get started I want to find the inside of my cuff where the seam is which should match up with the seam of the outside of my sleeve so what I'm gonna do is might be kind of hard to see it with this camera angle but I want to start on the inside and I'm gonna put my presser foot over this about half an inch to 5/8 of a seam allowance there so it should look something like that now you're gonna get all this bunched fabric while you're trying to sew so again like you did with the waistband you're gonna have to pull it tight like that while you're doing the stitch and I'm going to be using the lightning bolt stitch so that it stays stretchy this this can be kind of tricky so take your time there's no rush but I'm just going to kind of slowly start to make this stitch and I want to make sure that this edge is flush with all the raw edges okay I'm getting to a part where I can't actually stretch the fabric and it's gonna make a small pleat that's totally okay if it pleats a little bit it's not a big deal all right now I'm coming back on the seam where we started I'm just gonna sew a little bit past it and then I'm going to end my stitch and cut my thread all right so you should have something that looks kind of like this and you might be wondering why did I just do that and the trick of this is when you end up flipping your cuff out you're gonna end up with a sleeve that has a perfectly clean seam where our wrist cuff is and that pleat this is what that little pleat that I couldn't avoid turned out to look like which is really not that big of a deal I could have done it a little bit smoother but again I'm really happy with that just to test this out if I put my hand through here it should kind of grip onto my wrist like that which is nice and I've got a nice sleeve that goes all the way up to my arm that has my logo right there so if you got this far you're doing amazing okay you guys if you made it to this point you are two stitches away from your hoodie being completely finished so all we have to do to put our sleeves on is open your hoodie and you're gonna flip the whole thing inside out I'm going to do this so I'm looking at the back panel alright now what you want to do is take the sleeve that corresponds with the correct armhole and you're going to feed it through the hoodie so I'm going through my left arm hole and if you get confused the notches will help you alright so once you have your sleeve pulled through the sleeve hole what you're looking for on this is the sleeve you've got your sleeve Center seam and then you've got a notch right here now on your hoodie you should have a side seam and then right next to it there should be a knot right there so what I'm gonna do is match up the center seam of my side seam with my sleeve seam I'm gonna put a pin right here and then I'm gonna match up the notch of my sleeve to the notch on my hoodie and that's how you know that it's the correct sleeve for the correct side otherwise your sleeves will look really weird if you do not do that correctly now the third thing you need to look for at the top of your sleeve there should be a notch that you cut out as well and this will correspond with the center seam of the top of your arm hole okay now make sure you're doing right sides together so your sleeve should be completely inside the sleeve hole okay so those three parts are pinned now all we have to do is follow the fabric around making sure it's flush just like we did with the waistband just like we did with the cuff I'm gonna pull it tight so that all of my fabric is nice and flush find the center point pinch it and put a pin through okay do the same thing here where I'm going to hold that pin to pin pull it tight find the center point put a pin there I'm gonna do this all the way around the whole sleeve okay so now I've got the whole sleeve pinned all the way around so my sleeve goes through the middle and all the way on the outside should be your hoodie this part can be kind of confusing if you're brand new to it but if you take it really slow and you can actually pin it if you want to make sure that this is correct you can pull it right side out and I can actually look at it to see if this is pinned correctly so I can see that here's the top of my shoulder seam and then here's my sleeve that's going all the way around so everything here looks good I know it's gonna work as soon as I sew it so I can pull this back find this set of raw fabric here and I'm gonna do a 5/8 of an inch seam allowance stitch all the way around the circle all right you guys we are down to the last two stitches so I'm just gonna show you how I do my sleeve seams and then we are gonna be good to go so I am going to try to do this so you can see them so I always start my sleeve seams at the center bottom of where the armpit is on the hoodie I'm gonna lower my foot and this is just like doing the wrist cuff but way easier so I'm also gonna do the lightning bolt stitch for this whole thing and we're just gonna sew all the way around until we get back to the beginning you shouldn't have to pull the fabric too much but if you start to see it bunching up feel free to pull it if you need to all right so I'm coming around back to where we started and I'm just gonna sew about an inch pass where we started no just gonna cut my thread okay so that's done I'm gonna do the other side and then I'm gonna Serge the inside of those seams and then we are completely finished so hang out for just a sec while we finish this up are you guys we are finally finished I wanted to show you how it looked on the inside so this is what it looks like if you Serge all your seams but everything looks fine this is also the time where I kind of go through and look for any loose threads that I need to trim to make sure it looks good but I think we are ready to turn this thing right side out and see how it actually looks all right and that is it so I think we can finally just try this thing on and see how the whole thing fits are you guys let's see how this fitting test goes I would say this went pretty well so the hood looks pretty clean now again this was a commission for a friend of mine so big love to rabbit man 109 for ordering this for Christmas and I'm really happy that I could teach all of you how to make your very own hoodie this winter if you have any questions on the construction of this or any other videos that you'd like to see please let me know in the comments I really appreciate making this video for you guys and hopefully Oh something else I want to mention if you guys make your own hoodie please upload it onto Instagram or Twitter and put hashtag toc puddi and tag me at tock custom because i would love to see any of the hoodies that you guys end up making but thank you guys so much for watching this video I really appreciate all your support and I will see you guys in the next video

Channel: Tock Custom

Views: 118,014

Rating: 4.9725308 out of 5

Keywords: how to sew, hoodie, how to make a hoodie, how to sew a hoodie, sewing for beginners, hoodie tutorial, sewing tutorial, embroidery, overlock machine, serger, sewing, men's clothing, how to make clothes, tock custom, tockcustom, sewing man, sewing jesus, burda pattern, brother sewing machine, heavy duty sewing machine, zipper, how to sew a zipper, how to use a sewing machine

Id: bTYJip2nU04

Length: 66min 10sec (3970 seconds)

Published: Mon Jan 06 2020