How to Make a BEAUTIFUL Wet Molded Leather Bag!

hey everybody so uh we have a really cool project this week we're basically gonna take the tuck locks and the wet molds and we're gonna put everything together that we've done in the last few weeks and we're gonna make a nice bag out of it um we also have a new camera set up with a microphone and a new lens and all that so let me know if the quality is good kalian's very excited about it and uh yeah so i have i'm using the square molds the medium one and the small one and i'm going to take the small amount of the clamps i've already take taken this one out of the flames of course and let's dive into it so what i have here is this is wicket and craig's milled deer print leather which is very quickly becoming one of my favorites but i molded in two pieces i have the milled deer print and then on the inside the whole thing is going to be lined with just regular veg tan now the reason i'm lining up the veg tin is because we're going to use one of the tuck blocks and because we're going to stitch one of these to the other so what we'll be able to do is assemble this in a way that there's the insides of each pouch are nice and smooth and you don't feel any stitching the first thing we need to do though is we need to cut off the top so with these wet molds i like to always mold the whole thing no matter what and then i'll go in and chop off what i need because you can kind of see this is how it's going to stack and then we're going to do a tuck lock here and a flap that comes over it but we need to chop off these rounded corners that we have bag opening hi future eric here um i did this a weird way making this bag i found a better way to do it so no matter how you set up if you're using the buckle guy wet molds no matter how you set this up this is always going to be square to this this edge to the shape because they're cnc'd so to make your pocket shape just take a t-square and do that that's all you have to do and then you get a nice right angle line and then you cut that that's it now back to the video so the first thing we're going to do is just cut right down the middle here not up to our line though that's going to allow us to kind of smush this out and don't worry this will go back to where we want it this doesn't look pretty but it works so i have my rough line i'm going to line this up about like that once we've got it cut we can do that and then it's just a matter of getting it evening it out and there we go so on this tucker that i'm using it's basically this lands at the same spot like maybe a couple mil further down so i'm just going to use this as my guide because it's kind of hard when you have the legs up to place it where you want but i want this to land pretty low because it's going to be the flap that goes over the whole bag so i'm just going to make a little mark here this is roughly where i want it to land and then i got to use this one and this is where centering gets a little strange but it's not impossible so this is gonna give us about four inches so two inches is about center right there and now the nice thing is i'm going to push this down but all of this is going to be covered when we install this so we're going to move these lines around a little bit i've set my wing dividers this time to two and a quarter inches and i'm going to make use them to make a parallel line to the top of my pocket here and then i can use all of these little marks to line everything up to make sure that things are going to be straight and now our marks are going to be a little off but you can see so they've moved a bit but we know this is center so that's going to work well and we know that this might be a little off center but we know it's going to be parallel to the top of this pocket if we did this right and put these in we should be parallel to that little line we scribed or not parallel that should match the top of this and it does so this is going to feel flimsy because this isn't a super you want to use like four or five ounce leather because we're lining it so you don't want it to be too thick but next we're going to get our little plates and put them on and then again i am going to trim off some of the tab because we're not using very thick leather here now if you i'm not going to do like the full install we just did a video on how to install these so i'll link that in the description and if you want to learn what a top lock is and how to install it we did a full tutorial on doing it we'll just put a little bit of it in here i don't want to get repetitive this is the velodon just nylon with sticky backing and what i did was you see we use these you're going to use the mold for a lot more than just molding the leather it gives you all of your sizing for everything which i do like about them um and what this stuff is is just a little bit of a stiffener but we're mostly using it to sort of pad the back of that hardware that we just installed and you can see i'm gonna go just kinda it's just gonna be it's super thin it's gonna be wedged in between the layers so it doesn't have to be perfect at all we just want it to fit in there and we don't want it to be so that's a little too on the nose so i'm just going to take like roughly a quarter inch off there we go so now we'll just stick that on and then we can glue everything together so i always use just like in the trays i always use these molds to glue everything up with we're back to the toluene the normal barge we ran out of the toileting free so that's what we're using on this project they were pretty much the same i'm gonna glue a little past where i know i need to on this this is the veg tan inner liner go to stick this on i'm just gonna kind of get it roughly where i want it there we go okay i don't like that though there we go and stick it down and then i'm gonna go in with the mold again and get those edges stuck and you can clamp it again if you want but you don't have to then to get the sides coming with bone folder so i have some of this trimmed down and again it's just kind of sharp blade and you can either smush it down or you can just cut it floating to be honest with you it's not very difficult just use a nice sharp blade there we go so there's our front pocket nice and lined can't feel the tuck lock so the next thing we have to do is i'm going to sand all these edges down we're going to stitch across the top dye it and then we can finally attach this to our other body piece so i'm just going to use the marker i have not stopped using this i'm obsessed um and i'm going to dye all the edges before i burnish and you can see with this thing it's just so useful like no work at all to get a nice crisp edge on veg tan even though you'll never see it so i'm a convert all you guys in the comments that kept telling me get one you were right and i waited way too long so next day now and here's our finished front pocket you can see i dyed all the edges and burnished everything i stitched along the top we're going with like a medium brown light thread dark edges nice classic look so now we get to get this attached to the main body of our piece what i like to do is again we're going to use our mold i'm going to put the liner down then i'm going to put the outside down we're not gluing them together though then what i'm going to do is i'm going to put the frame on i'm actually going to clamp this down lightly and this isn't to mold the leather it's just to hold everything in place because and honestly there are other ways to do this i'm sure this is how i do it with these i just eyeball everything and it usually looks okay if you're super ocd about like everything lining up i'm sure you can find different ways to approach this but our main goal is just to get this pocket stuck right like that that's going to look really nice so for that we're going to use ted's tape because instead of glue um if we want to pick this up and put it down in a different place it'll allow us to do that so i'm just going to put some all along this seam here and we want to get good coverage on this i have my ted's tape applied and i'm going to set this down on the bottom first and then on one side and then the other side you're probably just gonna have to push it in a little bit make sure everything looks nice and straight which it does and then i just use um well first i'm going to take the clamps off now we're all set i'm going to use my bone folder to stick down the tape and this will also give us you can see how that's burnishing there depending on the leather you use but usually this works with pretty much any leather this is going to be where our stitch line is going to be for this top pocket so we're really getting it in there we know exactly where to put our chisels later on so i'm just going to take some more double stick tape and a little piece of belt scrap that i have i like to use kind of something pretty thick and if i can get this off all we're going to do is just attach this to one side of the mold and just so we can punch into that and you again plenty of different ways to do this is just the way that i do it and it'll protect the mold but it also makes punching super easy and the other nice thing about this is you don't have to really worry about the stitching on the back because you're never going to see it so now we're just going to go down line and stitch and then the next thing we're just going to unstick this and move it here and trim it down so you will i mean if you want i don't make a lot of these so if i did i would probably have just two separate pieces a little sacrificial leather strap to do this kind of thing i'm going to mark my corners with the two prong before i punch them and then i'm also going to mark this center line now a lot of people ask how you get your stitches to line up right because depending on your spacing or whatever you never know if they're going to line up this i don't so you see i want whatever stitch i'm going to have a stitch in the middle that's probably not even unless i get lucky and i did get lucky so basically what you would do is i'm marking out my stitches you can kind of see there's one stitch that's about a millimeter off here but all i'm going to do is use my single prong this guy right here to just punch right in the middle of that so the spacing is going to be a tiny tiny bit off from the rest of the spacing but you're never going to be able to see it all right so you can see i didn't trim this first because i like how it stays rigid to sew and then all we're going to do is just clip and burn this real quick and i'm going to put a piece of the velodon in here but but before i do that i want to put my brand just right here so what i'm going to do is i'm just going to do a little bit of a measurement we'll use this way and i'm going to measure from stitch line to stitch line so that's 11 mil so five and a half is roughly where i want to be it's right there and then i'm doing a very very very light line that once i press you'll never be able to see now this isn't going to look fun but basically you're just i'm just going to push this down like this and press it down that's it so before we glue i'm going to apply our velodon and we are gluing all of this part up without trimming the pocket first we'll do that after i'm going to apply it to this side and again just rough cut you know we're going to see it it's just a little bit of a stiffener piece adds a little rigidity and it's much easier to apply to this back side here you can use your little roller if you have one oh it's a whale right i'm very good at weirdo i still haven't figured out today my brain's like not not right now so now that our glue is dry we're just going to put this on here pop it on like that and what i like to do is we're gonna get this all stuck down now we're gonna put our mold on all right and so what this is gonna do is set the edges and then while the edges are setting we're just going to come with a bone folder because we can't really we're at the point where we can't really use our roller anymore because we have so many pockets and stuff going on and i'm going to go in and just be pushing down the insides of this pocket with my bone folder i unclip the mold now and um before we take it out all i'm going to do is scribe a little line using my ruler i'm just lining up the back of my ruler on this edge because we know that this is parallel no matter how you set up your mold so all i'm gonna do is put that line to use let's grab myself a little line and this is where i'm gonna chop this off to make our bag opening so to quote bob ross i guess this is kind of your bravery test here uh you can use a straight edge but i like going in just freehand and we're just going to cut across this line that we scribed and remember we're now going through two layers so don't be afraid to do multiple passes you don't need to try to rush through it so so we're going to do the i didn't show you guys how i did this seam because we have the same top seam to do we're going to finish it the same way and again it's going to be remember just because it's wet molded doesn't mean you can't just smush it down to do stuff to it it's going to bounce back because it's wet molded so all i'm going to do is bevel the sides here and don't be afraid to just smush it down because it'll come back to shape now unlike this one where i finished these sides too we're going to glue it back to this with our flap on it so for this one we're just going to finish the top before we stitch stitching pretty simple just smush it down i'm not going to go all the way so remember this stitch line is going to come to here so you can see on this one i just go and a little bit before it just go about there to about there and so once we have this stitched up i'm just going to hit it with paint marker um i have fibrin fibings pro dye in here this is their light brown i have to get another marker i probably would have gone with a dark brown on this one but i only have one marker because i didn't think i was going to like them so we got to get more but i think well i got this one for buckle guys so i think you could just order them from buckley guy but first i got to attach these rings all right so now that we have our body pretty much done we need to attach the d-rings before we put the back on so i'm just using half inch d-rings and i'm just going to cut a half inch strip and we have little tiny rivets that we're going to use but before we glue this together i want to make sure that i'm using some of the nylon that disappeared real quick so first we'll make sure that this fits right and it does next we'll check to make sure that our rivets are going to fit and that looks about right to me i'm going to be using some flat back rivets on this one just because they're a little bit longer of a post and we have a lot of stuff to go through so we'll get some of our melon here and we can just use our little scraps you just need a little bit of this and we'll just stick it this is only i'm only gonna make one of these but obviously make two and let's see we'll go with one two three four there we go so i'm gonna mark my center here then i'm gonna mark a half inch on either side and i'm not going to glue any of this i'm just going to glue here and here so when i fold it over i have my d-ring in the middle it can move freely it doesn't have any glue on it so to do our backslash flap depending on what mold you're using or depending on you know if you made your own mold um i'm going to take the measurement of the outer ring so on this is an old so buckle guys specifically this is a quarter inch gap between the mold and the outside ring i think they do eighth inch gaps now so if you have a newer one you're going to want to add a little bit more but this one is about five and a half wide so i'm going to make our back five and three quarters because if we place this here we want a little extra in the width department right and that is about a quarter inch actually so we'll add a half inch we'll do six inches wide and then however long you want um this is six and a half inches long so i'll probably do 12 inches long so we can wrap around and our tuck lock will right in there so i have this little piece of a shadow this is going to be the only piece that you see when you open the flap and i thought it kind of looked nice so we're going to laminate the back with this um i'm not using any of the stiffener on this part as you can see it's nice and stretchy so it'll be nice we're gonna have a little bit of a trim allowance here so what i've done is i'm gonna match up my bottom right then up here i made some marks on where i'm gonna glue up to and i've scribed a little line about an eighth of an inch because when we do all this wet molding it everything see how that's kind of swell i don't know if you can see but it's kind of squiggly right so when we glue this in we're going to kind of just go a little bit of a time a little bit at a time and muscle this into place so that it's straight so it's nice to have a little bit of an allowance nowhere we're gonna glue to know where we're gonna where we just have a guideline basically so i don't know if i need to do this on this leather but i am gonna rough it up a little bit because we want a really good bond here this isn't something you want to use tape on if you can prevent doing that and then i've also traced out where our curves are and hopefully i can get this done so that tonight i can just get this all stitched up because you guys have seen me stitch things many many times but the gluing process is a little it's a little tricky it's not that bad okay so to glue i'm going to take this piece of paper and lay it here and that's going to prevent anything from sticking that i don't want to stick just yet i'm going to use this edge this bottom edge here to line up and get a nice straight line now this is a little tricky it's not hard but you just got to go slow with it use your bone folder get that edge stuck down you could absolutely give yourself more of a trimming allowance i'm i probably didn't get myself enough here but it is what it is so you're going to stick your hand inside of this and we're going to slowly pull this paper um if it would stop sticking okay there we go and remember we're following our scribed line that we made to make sure that our seam ends up straight there we go actually i'm gonna do it that way there okay so that edge is straight but i kept this head not stuck with the paper now we're going to get this one done and you can see it pretty much lines up on its own you just kind of got to massage it in there there we go so we're going to trim all this off and you can kind of see now what our final bag is going to almost look like this is just going to be right here i'll probably trim this down and it'll be angled a little bit but we're kind of going off the cuff on that so we can pick our own size and then i'll probably put a little bit of a spacer in here and you'll just click to close it and click to open it and it's going to be a very nice back so i think what i'm going to do now you guys have seen me punch and stitch a whole bunch i'm going to just get this whole thing stitched out and dyed and tonight kaelin is going home for the day and um in the morning we'll just finish up uh i don't think i'm gonna make a strap for it because you can make any type of strap you want but um we'll do the finishing details and then we'll be all done all right so i went a little crazy because i got excited i don't usually do this but i just finished the bag last night off camera accidentally um but you guys saw it to this point right and if you want to know how to install the tuck lock last week's video i'll put it in the description um but basically all i did was i gave the flaps some shape right so when we close this it's if it's square it's like too much so by shaping so by bringing this in about a quarter inch you see a little bit of the detail from the side pockets and it just looks really nice and then what i did was i added a little spacer so sometimes your flap can be if you're in song i talk like like this your flat can be a little too thin so all i did was i just made a little veg tan spacer poke some holes in it and put the screw through and it's nice and solid and it floats a little tiny bit but you can kind of see there's just a little leather spacer in there so this bag design is phenomenal we've been sending pictures around of it just because you don't just have to make trays with those wet molds um so you have a nice big spot in here fits a phone fits a wallet fits whatever nice spot in here you can put more wallets a smaller phone cards tools whatever i mean i don't know anything you'd carry in a bag but it's fairly compact it only measures let's see one two three four five and a half by one two three four five six and a half and it's about two inches deep so you could add easily ahead a belt loop on the back and make this a hip pouch um but i have d-rings so i'm just gonna make you know me in my bags i never end up making the strap on camera because you guys have seen me make straps tons of times so that's gonna be about it for this one links to the wet molds that i used are in the description links the tuck locker in the description um if you do have wet molds of your own stack them like this make a bag this is such a cool design i i seriously can't get over it um and that's going to be about it thank you guys so much for watching we'll see in the next one you

Channel: Corter Leather

Views: 177,799

Keywords: How to Make a BEAUTIFUL Wet Molded Bag, wet mold leather bag, corter leather, corter, wet mold, wet molding leather, wet molding bags, leather bag, leather bag making tutorial, leather bag tutorial, leather bags, wet mold leather, leather bag diy, leather craft ideas, leather craft, leather work

Id: swqt5zDLV4Y

Length: 31min 54sec (1914 seconds)

Published: Fri Apr 08 2022