How to Make 3D Printed Tool Drawer Organizers

every time I let you see my drawers in one of my videos you leave comments about it so today we're gonna take a closer look welcome back to cloud for t2 I'm James this is the drawer where I keep all of my milling tools I've got lots of unrelated stuff in here I've got all my r8 collets I've got some drills and taps I've got some Reimers in here I've got some er xx Kaulitz for my tool holders I've got a couple of one two three blocks for setups I've got some threading dies some slitting saws to go my slitting saw Harbor I've got a bunch of new hen mills in the box waiting to be destroyed got some boring bars and my boring head there's the superfly Gus mill vise jaws some cleats for the Talon grips and then I've got my main milling tools in TTS geometry tool holders now you've seen these before these are just er 20 collet holders with a nut with the tormach cooling system geometry on the back so it's a three-quarter inch shank and a face register to go into the mill now having these in these tool holders laid out like this is really convenient so I can grab a tool I can go put in the mill and then when I'm done with that I can come back drop it in here quickly grab to the next tool without having them banging around in the drawer just kind of no matter what I do they stay put they don't go anywhere but they're loose enough in here they're really quick and easy to grab and really quick to put back now all of the organizers in this drawer are 3d printed I've got some round bottom tray so you can have small items in the bottoms of these like drills and they're very easy to just grab and sweep out and some of them are just ordinary boxes that are just rectangular in cross-section these are the same as shallower boxes that you can buy but I 3d printed them and then of course I've got the custom trays for the RA kaulitz and these custom fitted trays for the for the the collet tool holders and the drill chucks now all of these are my own designs and I do have the STL files uploaded on Thingiverse there will be a link to that project down in the video description and so you can download and print your own everything you see in here and also all of the stuff that I have over on the lathe to hold the ax a tool holders and the drill chuck and the boring bars and the live Center all of that sup on Thingiverse the link will be down in the description and you can feel free to download and print as many as you want now I have a couple of new tools that I don't have to hold or this is the diamond dragon graver that we used in a couple of previous videos I don't have any place for it to live and this is an official tormach TTS tool holder er 20 so this is the official tormach version of this which is the import ebay knockoff they are a little bit different you can see the geometry of the register is different this has the tool changer geometry for automated tool changers the length of the tool is shorter and the position of the nut is different so this will not fit in these other trays that i've already designed and then of course i don't have anything that will hold this it's the same kind of geometry that I have on the drills but it doesn't really fit properly in there so those aren't going to work so let's go into the computer and I will show you how I measure up these tools and we will design a couple of new tool holder trays for these 3d printer and come fit them back in the drawer okay these are the tools that we need to make holders for this is the ER 20 collet holder this is an official tour Mach 1 and this is the tormach diamond dragon graver now ultimately what I need to do is create a block of plastic with a recess in it that this tool will sit down into and the easiest way to do that is to start by modeling the tool itself now I've got a pair of calipers here and we can just start measuring this up now the easiest way to model these is just as a series of stacked cylinders because I don't care about the chamfers on the back edge I'm not gonna model the tool holder around it I've experimented with that on previous tool holders and it doesn't really add anything or make it more useful so let's start by modeling the diamond dragging griever so let's start with a cylinder so I can go in here in the tool and say create cylinder put it on this plane and what is the diameter a diameter of this is 0.7 4 9 that's 0.75 and the length of this which is not super critical is 1.4 inches okay and the next we have another cylinder so create cylinder this surface and the diameter of this one is 1.4 9 6 and the thickness is 0.6 3 2 and then the last cylinder is a diameter of 0.7 for 8 and the length of this again it's not real critical but it's 1.7 36 okay this gives us a very basic model of the geometry of the tool at least the parts of the geometry of the tool that are going to matter for making a tool holder for it let me save this so let's do the other tool now the shank and the tool holder geometry are going to be exactly the same so I can just take my existing design say save as er 20 collet holder and then I can just delete this section of geometry on the end here and replace with what we actually have okay so the next section we have here I can just create another cylinder same way and the diameter here is 0.98 6 and the the distance the length of it I want to make this work if this is turn if the collet is screwed all the way down so I'll run it all the way down and measure the distance in here and it's four hundred eighty one thousand so point four eight one and then we'll model the nut on the end after that and same thing create a cylinder diameter one point three two six and the length is 0.825 so there's our geometry for the diamond dragon graver and for the r20 collet holder and even though these models are not very detailed this is going to be plenty to create the tool holders now for all of the TTS tool holders in all the cradles that I make to fit in my drawer I make them a standard size so that they'll all fit together in nice neat rows so we'll start with a box of that size I'll say create box and put it on this surface and the height is five point eight seven five inches and the width is one point five seven five and the thickness is 0.5 four zero so this is our standard height for the whole of all of the blocks it's as a standard space that they have to fit into now let me save this and let's make this one the the TTS tool holder for the diamond dragon graver and now that we've saved that let's say save as and create another copy of it for the er 20 okay let's start with the er 20 now that we have this saved we can bring in the model of our er 20 collet holder just drag it in and drop it in the design and I'm just going to move this up so that we can access the surfaces that we need to register this now let's hit J for joint and we'll put one joint origin and we'll use this ring and this is the register ring for where this registers against the the end of the spindle and we'll just click on that it'll you can see it puts the joint origin in the center of that circle right on that surface and then we'll put the other joint origin here at the bottom of the block now that's facing the wrong direction so I'll flip it and now we need to both move this up some amount and move it forward some amount now I'm going to move it forward 1.5 inches and then as for the height above this I'm going to say point 800 that's like that - point 800 now that positions it so that it's sitting within the block but it's not touching the bottom of the block so that should put it about the right height that we can get a good cut out so I'll click OK and now we're going to use this to actually make a cut in this block so I'm going to modify combined and the target body will select the block and the tool body will select the tool holder the operation we want is cut so what it's going to do is it's going to use that tool holder model we have as a tool to cut out an opening in the block so I click OK and now I can hide that and now you can see that we have a cutout in the tool holder block that is perfectly shaped to hold that tool now let's do a couple of things I'll right-click on this surface and say extrude and I want to just go ahead and extrude that out through the end so that no matter what kind of tool we put in there there'll be clearance for it and then I want to do exactly the same thing on the back of a shaft here like that surface say extrude and cut through the tool so that means that the only place where this is really going to be registering or on these faces between the nut and the tool holder body and on the back of the tool holder body or excuse me the tool changer body so that gives us clean geometry for the tool to drop in to save this case I mess something up now that will fit exactly and we do not want an exact fit we do not want a machinist to fit on our storage our storage organizers we want the tool to be able to just drop into it quickly and be grabbed out of it quickly so we want to create some extra space here so what I'm going to do is I'm going to click this surface we'll just start with one right click say press pull and I want to run this down minus 0.025 so we're going to push that down 25 thousands now I'm going to press ctrl and then select some other surfaces and so controls just allow me to select all these surfaces and I let go of control they pop back to their original position so you can see what this is doing control select that surface and that surface and now by tapping control I can see what's happening so I let off control you can see where the surface is going to end up and I press control you can see where it was so you can see that what we're doing is we're just expanding that opening by 25 thousands which means we'll have 50 thousands FreePlay between the nut and the body across this little divider that holds it in place and when the tool changer body drops into here we'll have 50,000 25 on each side so I will just say okay okay that gives us our geometry to drop the tool in there to get it out though when these are all packed together in the drawer it's a little bit hard sometimes to get hold of them because these rings on the back here are gonna be very close together and there's not a good space to grab it so I'm gonna make thumb relief here right click create sketch on this side and I want to project this line so that I know where that is and I can line it up okay and then I'm gonna sketch an arc arc three-point arc is fine I'll use that point as a reference second point on that same line and then create the arc knots put some dimensions on this say 735 pow yeah it's pretty good and let's give it some depth here let's set this at 225 okay stop sketch I can select that region and extrude and just cut that through and that will give me relief to get my fingers in there to grab the sides of the tool okay that looks good now we need to save it in case I screw it up again let's put some fill it's on this so we don't have all those sharp edges so f-for fill it and I will just select let's say 0.1 hundredths ow and that'll just give us some nice rounded edges so that when we're putting the tool in if we miss a little bit it'll just guide it right into position okay I think that looks pretty good let's put some Phillips around these corners quarter-inch you know one more thing I always like to do is set the appearance for the material I'm actually gonna use in this case it is plastic opaque red glossy and that just gives me a chance to see it looking like the final material is gonna be and that gives me an idea of kind of what it's gonna look like when it's 3d printed okay that's one let's do the other one we'll reload the saved file and we will go through all the same steps for the diamond dragon graver and there it is there is the second tool holder for the diamond dragon graver this one just has room for the ring the thumb relief to be able to get hold of it and pull it out and then just clearance for the holder shaft it'll end about right here and then whatever tools on the end will stick out a little bit further but it goes all the way the end which just makes it a little bit more forgiving so it doesn't get caught or doesn't get hung up on the chamfers now there is one more thing I like to do when I'm 3d printing and that is to put a chamfer around this bottom edge now because I know I'm gonna be 3d printing this and I know that they get a little bit of squish of the plastic around the bottom edge on the glass bed of the printer you do that so you get good adhesion but it means that the bottom edge will be slightly wider and it'll have a little almost like a burr around the edge and we want to make sure that that's often we don't want to have to come back later with sandpaper or some kind of tool to take that off so I come up here and just say modify chamfer click on that bottom edge say 0.5 millimeter now I know everything else here is pending inches but I do this in millimeters because that's just how I think about 3d printing and what that does it puts a very small chamfer that you can see around that bottom edge now in reality since the layers of the printer are only 0.2 millimeters thick you're never really going to notice that on the finished part but it makes it so that you don't have to do any cleanup around the edges okay let's take these models export them as STL in to simplify 3d slice them and print them I'm printing both of these parts with pet G filament we've talked about this before but the reason that I like pet G for this application is that it doesn't shrink when it cools so the parts don't tend to warp that's an issue with ABS especially with large parts these are probably kind of right on the borderline I could probably get away with these in ABS without too much warping but if the parts get much bigger than this it becomes a problem some of the tool holders in my drawers are a lot larger the ones for my lathe tools are bigger and the I also have some for TTS tools that hold five tool holders side by side and those are quite a bit bigger I think there are almost 7 inches by 6 inches and those when I tried to print them in ABS I had a lot of trouble but the the pet G is fine the other thing I like about the pet G is it's also really easy to get a nice smooth shiny surface finish and so far they've been standing up really well out in the shop environment these parts get banged around a lot in the drawers sometimes when it's very cold they also get exposed to cutting oils and coolant and I have yet to see any ill effects from that once these prints finish we'll take them off the printer go back out in the shop and see how they work well here they are still warm right off the printer actually that's a lie they're not still warm you have to let them cool down so that the polymers in the hairspray will release and you can get them off the bed without breaking the glass I'm very happy with how these turned out they're really nice and smooth and shiny I don't know if you can see that surface finish but I just always love the result I get with pet G the turned up nice and clean I didn't have to do any kind of clean up that little chamfer around that bottom edge it really eliminates the squeeze out on the bottom you can't really even tell there's a chamfer there but because it kind of gets squished out and filled in but you also don't get any edge that has to be cleaned up so I am very very pleased with the way these turned out check the fit with the tools this is the one for the collet holder and that fits nicely a little bit of play so it holds it securely but it doesn't have to be terribly precise putting it in or out and the one for the diamond dragon graver that's working the same way and it's got the nice little finger holes there so I can easily grab it pull it out I'm happy with that let's find a place for him in the drawer now this drawer is very full and it's kind of full of everything I'm gonna need to reorganize this I'm thinking that I want to dedicate this mostly for tools that are ready to use in the mill so I've got these tools here I've got the two new ones I'm adding I've got you know the boring head and some other tools over here that don't have proper organizers like the superfly which is rattling around in a box so I'll probably end up making more and creating a larger grid of tools and moving some of the other stuff like the the stock of cutters or the drills you know someplace else but for now I'll just take out these two boxes this is my key way slotting tool some blank drill blanks and the cleats for the tailing grip jaws and I'll put these someplace else for now and we'll just use this space now drop these in now one thing about these when you print them as separate pieces is that there's more motion you can see as I put this in here and take them out they move around a lot more than they do when you print them larger so if I have one of these printed with multiple tools all in one block the weight of the other tools hell to keep this in place now as the drawer gets full and everything is packed in just having these constrained by the other tools around them will you know take care of some of that problem plus with time the plastic will start to stick to the rubber drawer liner mat but I am very happy with that now as I mentioned earlier all of the organizers that you see in this drawer the boxes that collet holders and everything that you've seen in my drawers over at the lathe also for the ax a tool post holders the live Center the drill chuck the boring bars the ER for t kaulitz all of the designs for all of this are available for download on Thingiverse there'll be a link down in the description so you can feel free to download and print as many as you would like well that's all I have for today if you are enjoying these videos please give me a thumbs up feel free to subscribe to the channel and leave me a comment I'd like to know what you think thank you for watching you [Music]

Channel: Clough42

Views: 157,695

Keywords: Drawer Organizers, Tool Holders, 3D Printed Drawer Organizers, 3D Printing, 3D Modeling, Tutorials, Fusion 360, PETG, Machine Shop

Id: kJDb__3mCfo

Length: 22min 48sec (1368 seconds)

Published: Thu Mar 21 2019