Hi, happy knitters and welcome back to my channel so today It's going to be a video tutorial about the after the true afterthought heal with contrast toe heel and cuff This is a video that you guys have been requesting And I finally after several months have have finally finished filming it so it took a few a few months So you may notice some nail polish changes throughout the video so that is particularly why this is going to be the sock that is in this tutorial as you can see as a contrast Hill toe and cuff and I did something a little different on the The afterthought heel as far as the closure I did not do the Kitchener stitch I did an alternative to that that I was trying out on this hill so You will not see the Kitchener stitch in this tutorial But there are plenty other tutorials out there that will show you how to do the Kitchener stitch Besides I'm not that great at it myself I mean I can do it, but I want to try something a little different And I will give you my opinion on the closure that I used in this tutorial at the end so stay tuned for that So you'll see how how what I want my thoughts were on that so throughout this tutorial? I will be referencing my first video two at a time sock tutorial with the Flegal Hill because in this tutorial I do show you the complete sock, but there are parts of this tutorial They go a little bit faster than others because I've already Slowed that down in that particular video, so I'm going to be referring throughout this tutorial to that other video And I will put a link down in the description box below so that you can reference that it'll also be in the link above In the to this tutorial so you can just click on it if you need to refer back to it So I hope you guys are going to like this tutorial Like I said it has been highly requested And it's been a long time coming so I hope that you enjoy if you could give this video a thumbs up and subscribe And tell all your friends about it. I appreciate it. Thank you So the materials you're going to need for this tutorial is going to be one skein of yarn Divided evenly and in this case I use knit picks felitti in the colorway rainbow You are also going to need to have another skein for your heels toes and cuffs And I use patent Kroy sock and the colorway flex So you are going to also need a pair of scissors some bulb-shaped stitch markers a tapestry needle a progress keeper You are also going to need for me. I like to knit my socks with the size u.s.. Size 12.25 millimeter, but whatever needle size that you normally knit your socks in would be fine, and you're also going to need a tape measure Okay, so I'm going to start by showing you a sock that I knit last year with contrast heel toe and cuff I Think it'll make it a little bit easier to understand what we're going to be doing in this tutorial So let me grab my sock blockers and put those put that on for you So you'll be able to see it a little bit better You Okay, so now that I've got the sock blocker on so basically we're going to knit the sock toe up So as you can see we've got a contrast toe heel and cuff And this is going to be with the afterthought you thought heel And we're going to start with the toe and work our way up And we're going to put in or cut in the afterthought heel once. We are done completely knitting the body of the sock So now we are going to start with the cast on for the toe, and you guys have seen this in my other Tutorial and I'm going to link it up in the description box below because in that tutorial I use waste worsted weight yarn So it's a little bit better for you to see But I will tell you that I like to use for my toe up patterns or toe up socks I like to use this same free rounded toe Pattern by Lynn Ashton on Ravelry it's a free pattern And it just gives your socks a really nice Round toe instead of the wedge look if that's what you're wanting to go with so I highly recommend this pattern if you're looking more for a rounded toe So here we're gonna use the Turkish cast on because that's my cast on of choice And of course you can use whatever cast on That you like in that you are familiar with but we're gonna start with a slipknot And I want to encourage you guys to watch my first tutorial because I go a whole lot slower on that Particular video the two at a time video with a fleegle heel, but I will show you in this video But it's going to be on sock yarn, and it's going to be a little bit faster, so first we start with the Slipknot You put the Slipknot on the bottom of your needles of course This is Magic Loop So your needles are oriented with the tips pointing to the right and now you're going to make The number of loops that you like for your socks and in my case since I use land Ashton's pattern I will loop around 14 times from the front to the back, and I will do this for each of my socks So once you have the appropriate amount of stitches for the first sock you're going to secure that Sock by putting the yarn in between the needles So that you will secure that that yarn and you want to go back and double check to make sure that you have the correct amount of stitches on your sock needle So as you can see here, I did not have the correct amount so I just made the adjustment and Now the first sock is complete just want to double-check I like to double check and double check because you Don't want to start a sock and then find out later on that you don't have the right amount of stitches You Okay, so now that we are done Casting on for this first sock. We're going to do the exact same thing for the second sock we are going to start with our traditional Slipknot and then we are going to take that Slipknot and place it on the Bottom needle for magic loop for the Turkish cast on we're gonna slide it right on exactly like we did the first Sock and then we're going to Snug that Slipknot up and then we're going to start wrapping from I think I own the first one I said from front to back But it is actually From back to front so we're gonna put on fourteen stitches. I'm sorry fourteen loops and Then we're going to go ahead and secure those fourteen loops by putting the yarn in Between the needles to secure it You So let's double check our loops to make sure we have the correct amount on and then we can continue with this tutorial Okay, so now we have both of the loops for both socks on so now. We are ready to begin the process for the Turkish cast on Okay, so we are going to pull the bottom needle long and Then we are going to take that loop that was securing the other loops And we're just going to just gently just drop it off with our finger holding that first loop in place So we're going to take our needle, and we are going to insert it in between the needle and the cord This cord is kind of clear, so it might be a little bit difficult to see but then we're going to just knit off the first stitch and We're going to continue in this method knitting each of the loops until we get to the end of the sock You So now we're coming down to the end of the first sock and As you can see there is a slipknot on the bottom loop. We are not going to do anything with that Slipknot yet We'll take care of that later on in the sock So now we're going to continue on with the second sock and we are going to Drop that loop as we did on the first sock and just kind of gently just drop it off, but keep securing that first loop with your finger and we're going to insert the needle in between the cord and the needle and then we're going to go ahead and pull a little tight on that first stitch and we are going to knit it off as a normal stitch and We are going to continue in this method on the second sock just by knitting each of the loops You Okay, so now we're coming to the end of the first sock and we are going to knit that live stitch and As you can see the Slipknot is still attached, so we're going to keep it on there And we're going to flip our needles over and we're going to get back to ready position for Magic Loop, so We're pulling the top cord back through To get the needles back oriented into Magic Loop position with the points still orient it to the right You So now we are going to pull that bottom needle long and this time we are going to take the First slip knot off and just drop it. We don't need it anymore okay, so now you are going to insert your needle through the first loop and You are going to pull just a little tight on that first one and you are going to just knit the stitches off the Needle You So now we are coming to the last stitch on this first sock and So we are done the Turkish cast stone is pretty much done for this first sock So now we're going to continue on to the second stop sock Just make sure that you when you're doing magic loop you remember to drop your working yarn before you pick up the other working yarn For the second sock, so you don't actually knit end up knitting them together So we're going to insert our needle into the second sock. We've dropped the Slipknot, and we're going to tug up just ever so slightly on that first stitch and we're going to take the tail and pull a little bit because I kind of Cinches it together, and we're going to knit across This second sock as we did the first sock and you'll be finished with that Turkish cast on for that sock as well Okay, so now we are coming to the end of the first stitch so now we are going to be ready for it starting to increase on our toes So let's get back to Magic Loop position Which is always with us pushing our top needle back into our stitches and pulling our bottom needle out to begin knitting in the round You Ok so now we're going to pull our bottom needle long And we're going to knit the first stitch and then we are going to make an increase in For the second stitch you can do a make 1 left Make 1 right, whatever you're comfortable with but I do have a new Video called a yarn over increase that makes it super simple And I'll list a link above for you to click on, but I think that is probably one of the easiest and most simple Increases for for socks so basically you're going to Like I said earlier in this video I'm using the Lynn Ashton pattern, so I'm following her increases for the toe, but if you just want a traditional Wedge toe it would be knit 1 increase go all the way down to the end of the first sock and you would increase One and then knit the last stitch and you would do that every other round so it's going to be a increase row On the on the front and the back you're gonna do it all around and then you're gonna do an even row of knitting Where you're just going to knit without any increases so whatever method or pattern that you like to use for your? Increases this is where you would Follow that those instructions And you're going to perform these increase and even rows until you get to the desired number of stitches that you like for your socks my stitch count for these socks and all of my socks are 64 but yours may be 56 yours may be 60 so it just depends on what your width of your foot is and kind of what you what you normally like to knit as far as the stitch count for your socks so continue to do your Increase row your even row until you get to your desired number of stitches And I'll show you what to do next in regards to changing the color for the body of the sock Okay, so now I want to show you so we have finished I have finished my increases on my socks and I forgot to tell you a little bit earlier you want to put a Aggress keeper on the front to tell you which is the front of the socket? Which is the back because they'll tell you when you have completed around? So I have gotten to 64 stitches on my stitch count But as you can see the toe is still somewhat tiny So I want to show you just on a sample some of the socks that I've knit in the past and as I told you Before it's a it depends on your preference as to how long you want your color for your toes So it really is just like I said just depends on what you want so on this first sock my toe my first color change is almost exactly two inches on the dot on the Second one. It's slightly over two inches, but you know pretty much around that that same amount so what I like to do is I like to try on the sock to see what is what what it looks like and If I'm comfortable with the color change so you will continue to knit Evenly without any increases with your toe color and then come back And I'll show you how to add the second color So now it's time to check to see where we are as far as the length of the tow and So we're gonna take our tape measure and we're gonna measure from the bottom of the toe to where we are and in my case We are let me adjust the tape just slightly we are pretty much at the two inch mark and that's kind of where I like To have my socks and as you can see Now we're getting ready to start the next color, so now you want to get your your main color ready And you should have already divided those out evenly and generally speaking It's about a hundred grams of yarn for a sock without color changes So if you've got that much and you've divided them into 50 gram balls You should be you should have plenty of yarn to make two socks, so now we're getting back to Magic Loop position And we're gonna pull the bottom needle out and so in order to do a color change It is very very simple so are you going to start by just? Grabbing about The grabbing the beginning of a yarn and leaving probably about six inches of yarn, and you are literally going to take your needle and you are going to insert it into that very first stitch as You would as you're getting just like you're getting ready to knit the first stitch which which we are so we're gonna insert that needle and Then you're going to take that Yarn that you've kind of folded over and give it and have a little bit of an eighth inch I'm sorry six inch tail and you're just going to loop it over the needle Leaving like I said six inches or so because we're going to use that to weave in the ends after we have finished the sock and then you're going to just take it and You're going to pull it through hold on to it, and you're just going to pull it through as if you're going to knit And then you knit it off Okay, so what I like to do now is I like to take the tail of the yarn and drop it Because we're not working with that right so Now you are going to Knit with the working yarn. You're going to just like you normally would so you are going to Put it through The second stitch And You're just going to knit normal now. What's going to happen? Is that first stitch is going to be a little loose? But that's okay because that is what happens when you change in the change colors in the round or change colors Generally so that is not going to be an issue so now you're just going to start knitting with the new color as Normal, and I'll show you what happens when we get around to back to the beginning of the round You Okay, so now we're coming to the end of the first sock don't forget to drop your working yarn from your first sock and we're Going to do the exact same thing with the second sock Okay, so I'm grabbing my yarn from my second scan my second ball and We're going to do the exact same thing. We are going to insert our needle into that first stitch as if to knit and Then we are going to like I said leave about a six inch tail we're going to fold it over And we're just going to slide that loop on and we're going to knit it off Okay, and then we are going to continue to Knit make sure you drop the tail because we're just want to make sure we're working with the yarn that is coming from the skein and You're just going to knit evenly With that skein I'm sorry we go with that with that yarn, and you are going to Continue until you have completed one full round of knitting with your color change And then I'll show you what happens when we get back to the beginning So we have now completed one full round of knitting with the new colorway and We want to make sure we get ourselves a Jess adjusted and keep our Yarns from getting tangle, so I'm gonna pull zoom in a little bit So you can see so you can see this so now As you can see we still have our working yarn the new color on the back needle And we've got a tail from the new colorway, and we still have our old color The flax seed color attached to the ball, so now we're going to grab a pair of scissors, and we want to cut that Toe color because we are done with it for the moment and we want to leave about another six inches of tail because we want to be able to weave that in later and So now you're done with that that toe color, okay? We're going to set that that scheme aside We're done with it so what I like to do for my color changes is to keep everything kind of tight and snug I take the two ends and I will Basically not a knot but I just tie them together securely and then I take those two ends, and I just push those inside the sock and We I kind of forget about them for right now So that's what we're gonna do where I hit right here. Is we're just going to push those tails into the inside sock and We are going to forget about them until we get ready to weave in our ends at the end of our our knitting So let's go ahead and get ready to start knitting again So now we'd like to say we've completed a successful color change and we're going to insert our needle into the first stitch and we're going to tug up tightly on that stitch and We're just going to continue now that stitch may still be slightly loose But that is not going to be an issue like I said earlier We'll take care of all of the the tightening when we get to the end as we're finishing up the sock So I will show you again one more time on the second sock how we join in our our second color You Okay, so now we're coming to the end of the first sock so drop our working yarn let's go to the next sock and once again We have our working yarn With a new color coming from the back, and then we've got the tail end from the new yarn on the front And then we've got our old color Still attached to the ball, so we're going to take a pair of scissors, and we're going to cut that Yarn, and then we're just going to tie the two ends together and snug up those two ends So that we can later on Come back and and weave in those in so give it a good snug and as you're knitting you will notice maybe on the second and and maybe even the third row after the color change you might have to come back in to these come back in and Tighten those up just a little bit because like I said they're gonna still be a little on the loose side But that is not going to be an issue and but if it bothers you you can continue to tighten until you are one or two rows above the color change so now you're just going to go ahead and Continue to knit with the new color and you will do that until the sock measures 2 inches From your total foot and I will show you here in just a moment a diagram that Will make it a little bit easier for you to understand so you're going to continue and to knit with the new color until Your that until that sock measures two inches short of your total foot Okay, so now we're back and We want to Stop knitting in our main color when we get to where we are two inches short of Our foot so from the beginning of the foot you're going to stop two inches short Okay, because this is where we're going to be placing our locking stitch marker our bulb stitch markers for the back of the heel so guys I place my stitch markers at two inches, but Someone like Kirby were beyond her tutorials she does one in three quarters so I can't really tell you exactly where you should place yours it just depends on what you What you what you think you need? So this is the front of the sock So you are going to knit the instep all the way till you get to the back? and then I'll show you what to do once we get to the back of the sock on the Heel so that I can show you where to place the stitch markers, so just knit evenly across the front end step You So now we have finished knitting across the front of the sock, so now we're to the back of the socks so basically we are going to Knit evenly on the back until we get to that very last Stitch and this is where we are going to place our stitch marker and the reason why we do that We're going to do it on both socks the reason why we do that a reason why I do that. This is not mandatory for afterthought heels, but I think it's if you are new to The afterthought heel is easier to put stitch markers where you are going to insert your needles When you're getting ready to pick up your stitches It's just like I said it just makes it easier so this first Locking stitch marker is going to represent one side of the heel Where we are going to it's like it's basically like a place marker is what it is And you'll understand it a little bit more when we get to actually knitting the afterthought heel, so like I said Just go ahead and knit all the way down till you get to that last stitch and we're going to place a stitch marker on that stitch So we are coming to the end of the sock and you're going to go ahead and and knit that last stitch Normal, so just go ahead and hit it normal because now we are going to Now add the stitch marker? and You want it to be one of the ones that can open up whether it's so it can be this bulb stitch marker Or it can be any other stitch marker these are somewhat thin in nature, and I like those the other ones tend to be slightly bulky and So I like these a little bit better, so you're going to insert it, let's see if I can get it a closer shot You're just going to insert it into that last stitch and just let it hang out there Until we finish the sock so now that we've added that We are now going to knit across This sock and do the exact same thing You We're coming to the end of the second sock so now we are also going to do the exact same thing We're going to take a locking stitch marker, and we're going to place it on that very last stitch You So at this point we want to once again knit the front stitches and Then we'll talk about what we need to do when we get to the back stitches for our second stitch marker Okay, so we are back on the heel side again of our sock and as you can see that's where we place the first stitch Marker, so now it's time for us to place The second stitch marker and this time we're going to place the stitch marker Dead center based on the number of stitches that we have so for my sock I have a total of 64 stitches so 32 on the front and 32 on the back, so I'm going to place my stitch marker at 16 but if you have a 60 count stitch Sock then you would place your marker and 30 and actually for this particular one you just have to get closed It just has to be somewhat some close to the middle it doesn't have to be dead on a spot Center Because this is the stitch that we are going to cut For to start unraveling for our afterthought heal, so it just needs to be somewhat close to the center, and so we're just going ahead and knit as We normally would the back stitches and then when we get to the halfway mark we're going to place our second locking stitch marker You So now we are approaching the halfway mark on our sock and like I said for your sake or stitch count may be slightly different So we're going to take our second locking stitch marker and put it on the stitch that is at the halfway mark You So now that we placed that stitch marker We're just going to knit to the end of this sock and we are going to repeat the same thing on the second sock Okay, so we are approaching the end of the second sock We've come to that first stitch marker just knit normal and ignore it hanging out there, and so now we are going to start on the second sock and put this stitch marker at the halfway point You Ok so now it's time to place the marker on the second sock and once we do that then we'll just continue to the end of the sock and I'll show you where the place the last locking stitch marker You So once you come to the end of this row go ahead and knit across The front stitches on the both socks and then come back around to the back heel Okay, so now we're to the back stitches once again And so this time the stitch marker is going to be Placed at the beginning of this round so it's going to be on the very first stitch of this sock So basically we're doing this because we want to once we finish the sock We won't necessarily know where our 30 where our stitches are on the back needle So this is basically marking the stitches for the the first the first stitch on one side and the last stitch on the other side so go ahead and place your locking stitch marker on that very first stitch and So this is the last stitch marker that you are going to need That will help you with the afterthought heal Now is this necessary to do absolutely not like I said earlier in the tutorial But for first-time afterthought heal if you've never done it before it actually kind of helps So that you're not concerned about where to begin the afterthought heal as far as where your first stitches You So now we're on to the next sock so let's go ahead and place that locking stitch marker where it needs to be on the first stitch and Just knit evenly to the end of this round You So now we are done with placing all of our stitch markers yay, so we are going to be now back This is just showing the back of The sock just for reference so you've got three markers on the back one at the first stitch marker one in the middle on the row below and one on the in the row below that one so you should have a total of three stitch markers per sock Okay, so we're back to the beginning of the round and I want to bring back the other Afterthought heel sock that I did just so you could just to show you for reference again So you are just going to? Continuously knit in the round and as long as you want your leg to be until we get to the ribbing part of the sock So now go ahead and just continue to knit in the round for as long as you would like to have your sock leg So now I have knit my leg of the sock to the length that I like I like a sock That's a little bit longer than an ankle sock so that kind of works for me But you can knit your sock to the leg to the desired length that you like it to be So now we are ready on my sock to begin the ribbing portion of the sock so We're going to grab our contrasting color and We are going to start knitting with that ball of yarn now Here's a note for ribbing when you are Starting a color change on a row where you're going to begin ribbing always On the color change round knit and even round before you start the ribbing So if you were to start the color change and Immediately start ribbing then you'd be able to see the color change through the purl bumps And that's not what we're wanting for a very clean look for our color change so as we have done before we are going to grab our our color and We are going to Insert our needle into the first stitch as if to knit Be sure and remember to leave at least a six inch tail so that we can weave that in later that helps us with Tidying up and making sure that we don't have any holes in our socks So let's go ahead and insert the needle into the first stitch and we're just going to loop the color change Over the needle like we did for the socks, and we saw it looked like we did for the toes Sorry, and then we're just going to continuously knit one even round with this color change You So don't forget that you want to drop the tail and just work with the yarn that is coming from the ball of the yarn You So continue to knit across the first sock and do the exact same thing for the color change on The second sock and I'll meet you back at the beginning of the row You So now we're back to the beginning of the round for the second sock and as I said earlier We're going to continue to do the same thing on this sock as the first sock so make sure The most important thing that you can do is to make sure you leave enough tail to weave in for the color change So are you going to leave probably about another about six inches of tail like I said before you're going to insert your needle into the first stitch and wrap that new color over The needle pull through and sew and then knit your stitch off And then you're going to make sure you drop the tail of The yarn and you're going to pick up the working Part of the yarn and just continue to knit with the new color You Okay, so we have knit one even row all the way around with the new the contrast color for our cup and so now it's time for us to cut the Yarn from the main color because we don't need that anymore for this portion of the sock So let's leave about a six inch tail on that as well and let's just go ahead and give it a snip So let's go ahead and tie our ends together Just to secure those so that they won't come undone and we will take care of that again as I said earlier at the end of the sock when we're finishing it up and That way it'll be make a little bit of a less loose stitch for that first stitch on the needle So just snug it up as tight as you can and then take those two ends and just kind of tuck them inside the sock so now Once you do that we are going to begin our tube. I like to do two by two ribbing That is a personal choice for me. It is up to you You can do whatever type ripping that you like on your socks one by one two by two One by three whatever is comfortable for you, and this is where you would begin doing that So be sure on that first stitch to make sure that stitch is somewhat tight because you want to make sure that you're not leaving any holes for gaps or or or You don't want your Sock to have laddering so go ahead and continue as you would in whatever ribbing that you have decided on I'm gonna go ahead and speed through this or cut this part particular part out if you need to reference Specifically how to do it go back to that first tutorial with the fleegle heel It's a little bit slower And you'll be able to understand a little bit better if you're not sure how to do The ribbing on this sock so this I don't want this tutorial to be too too long so we're gonna go ahead and speed through this part, and we'll come back, and I'll show you how I cast off So now I am finished with my ribbing idea at 20 rounds I'd like to do 20 rounds of ribbing on my sock That's a personal preference As always so it's nice and stretchy, and I actually love Two by two ribbing so now it's time to do the jinnee surprisingly stretchy bind-off Okay so in order to start Jenny surprisingly stretchy bind-off. We are going to start with a reverse yarn over unlike the traditional yarn over the that goes from Front to back we're going from back back to front on here, so we've done the reverse yarn over and then we're going to knit the second stitch normal and Then we've got two stitches on our right needle so now we're going to pass one stitch over the other stitch So, I don't know what it is, but for some reason this Patent Kroy sock yarn. It was very splitted throughout the whole knitting of his sock So it was I was not really a huge fan of it And I've used patent Kroy before so I'm not sure if it was just this particular skein or what but not a fan okay, so now we're going to do another reverse yarn over and we're going to knit the second the next stitch and Now we've got three Stitches on our right needle and we're going to take that middle stitch and we are going to pass it over the last stitch and So now we have two stitches on our needle now. We're going to take the other stitch and pass it over That's the second stitch and now we will have only one stitch left on the needle So now we are coming to a purl stitch and what we want to do is wrap the yarn From the front to the back of the needle when we are presented with a purl stitch that's coming up next So loop the yarn around the back side of the needle, and then we're going to purl normal and Purl off and so now you will have three stitches again on your right needle and you can pass those stitches one at a time over or You can how the option of passing both of the in stitches over at the same time? It's just a personal preference. There's lots of tutorials out there on genies surprisingly stretchy by I know in this tutorial with working with fingering weight. Yarn is a little difficult to see so I encourage you to check out Those tutorials as well so we're back to another purl stitch so we're gonna wrap from the front to the back and we're going to insert as If to purl and we're going to go ahead and take those stitches off One at a time or two at a time depending upon what you like so you will continue in this method With Jenny surprisingly stretchy bind-off, and I will see you at the end of this sock You Okay, so now we've come to the last three stitches on the first sock and we're going to go ahead and Pull those over to where we have one stitch left on the sock now. This is what I like to do I don't know what others do on their socks But I don't like to leave just one stitch on a needle especially when I'm doing two at a time it just seems a little fiddly to me so actually what I like to do is I like to take a locking stitch marker and I'd like to place it through that last Stitch and I take it off the needle you certainly don't have to but that's actually what I like to do So by doing this we don't have to worry about that one stitch being left for me anyway on that needle, so now this that needle is free, and I can start knitting on the Second sock without that one stitch being left So we will complete Ginny surprisingly stretchy bind-off on this second sock And I'll come back and show you what we do with the sock that has the locking stitch marker So I've completed nearly a full round of binding off on this second sock So now I'm down to the last three stitches of this sock, and I'll show you what I do next You We only have one stitch left The needle so I like to pull that that stitch up and I will cut the working yarn And once I cut the working yarn, then I will thread it through the loop to secure The sock and Then we'll come back at the end, and we'll weave in our ends, but this first sock this I'm sorry this was actually the second sock. It is completely done is super stretchy the bind off looks Amazingly great. I highly recommend this bind off for any of your toe up socks. I think is a really great Bind off and so so when you bind off like this There's a little bit of a gap in between where you bind off versus where you start we're going to close that up When we weave in our ends at least that's how I do my socks So now we've got this one sock left with this extremely long cord And so we are going to position our cord where we're going to continue with Magic Loop so we're going to still take the the front needle and push the Yarn in just like we do it would normal regular magic loop but what we're going to do with that back needle is I'm going to take the Locking stitch marker off and Put it back on that back needle You So just make sure you pull that loose Stitch a little bit tighter and now you will just continue with the jinnee Surprisingly stretchy bind-off where you left off? And you'll go ahead and do that across the back stitches on this sock and you will complete It just as you did the other sock So I'm going to go ahead and fast forward so that we can get to the end You So this is the final three stitches on our last sock And we will continue in bind off in pattern with Jenny surprisingly stretchy bind-off And we will end up doing the exact same thing that we did on the first sock You So go ahead and cut your working yarn and Weave it through the open loop or however you like to into your stitches and we are done with the main part of both of these socks and Now it's on to the afterthought heal So we are now done with the main body of the sock We are going to pick up stitches from the black locking stitch marker And we're going to pick up stitches from the yellow Locking stitch marker and of course the one in the middle is holding the stitch that we're going to cut Okay, so we're ready for the afterthought Hill my sock is oriented to where the cuff is at the top and the toes are at the bottom, so what we want to do is go ahead and Insert our needle into that first stitch that was holding that was held by the black locking stitch marker and as you can see I've picked that up and We basically want to pick up the right leg of every stitch on that Row it's going to be a little difficult to see because this entire row is pink, but I will tell you that it's very easy to get off on a row when the color is the same and I actually did that on the back of the sock, but I Realized that and I started I pulled out the stitches that were on the the incorrect row and Put them back on the needle the correct way So I'm going to be picking up 32 stitches on this back on this back needle because that is how many stitches That I did on this back back row so I had a total of 64 stitches So I'm gonna pick up 32 so depending upon how many? stitches you Cast on for your socks if you may if your sock was 30 I'm sorry 60 stitches you're gonna pick up 30 stitches so just make sure that you stay on try your best to stay on the right row and Not go on a different row like I did So I suggest that when you are doing the afterthought heel to make sure that you are in a well-lit area So that you'll be able to see your were you picking up your stitches and sometimes you have to spread your stitches out to kind of see where the the second where the right leg is so just talk I said take your time and just methodically pick up the right stitch and then just kind of come back and look to see if You have picked up the right row for your stitches you You So we're coming to the last stitch on the back of the sock and make sure You count is very important account To make sure that you have picked up the correct number of stitches for your socks and in this case like I said mine was 32 and Fortunately I did have 32 stitches on The needle so now what you want to do is you want to pull The cord your needle through where the cord is now on the needles because it'll make it much easier for you to pick up the remaining stitches so turn your sock over and So now we want to pick up the first stitch on the other side, so this is the or the yellow stitch marker yes So this is going to be stitch one after we've turned our sock over and I'm gonna pick up 32 stitches on this side So go ahead and Make sure you methodically like I said pick up the stitches if it's your first time doing the afterthought Hill Don't get frustrated. There are times when you might have to pull back the needle out of the stitches because For some reason you missed a stitch, etc, but it's that's not a big deal like I said It's just one of those things and as you get used to The afterthought Hill it gets easier as you continue to do them And so don't get frustrated By if it's your first time picking up stitches for the afterthought Hill because I've done probably three or four socks with the afterthought Hill, so I wouldn't consider myself to be a professional by any means and sometimes I have to pull back my work and It's okay. It really is okay, and just look at your work And if you need to spread your stitches out to make sure that you're picking up the right leg, that's okay as well So here's a tip maybe for first-time afterthought Hill knitters you might want to Put your or put your mark the stitch markers locking stitch markers where you have a color change Where mine is kind of in still in the pink section you might would have maybe put your stitch markers where the pink? And the blue changed that way you would have to pick up stitch stitches on the pink side and on the blue side so that might have made it a little bit easier for You to see that's just a tip as I'm going back and looking at and Narrating of course this tutorial that probably would have been a little bit easier easier for your you guys to see You And for some reason when I was picking up stitches on this side of the sock I was actually having trouble picking up the stitches and you probably can see that But I didn't of course just get discouraged like I said, I just took my time Picking up the stitches, and it was I don't know for some reason this yarn was a tad bit on The splitty side and this is a nitpicks Felitti and I never have issues with that so it's probably more of a user issue than anything else so But yes, I'm like I said just picking up the stitches taking my time And I'm not fast-forwarding through this part of the tutorial because I want you guys to see Everything my struggles with it etc You Okay, so I'm just plugging along and plugging along and you will see in just a few short Moments that I realized that I'm picking up the wrong row toward the end, and I know why because the color actually changed on this row and so therefore I Missed the row somewhere halfway Because I thought I was still picking up the right row and I was not and once I Pick up the last stitch you'll see where I realized that I have picked up the wrong road You I Don't know if you can see where I've picked up the wrong row But now I realize that I have so don't panic just pull the stitches back to where You were on the correct row and then go back and start picking up the correct rope. It's just that easy and simple I Say that but really maybe not No it really is that simple I'm just kidding you Just like I say you just have to be Patient and take your time when you're when you were picking up stitches for the first time with the afterthought heal And you should be perfectly fine You So here I'm just taking a step back to just make sure that I am picking up the right stitches because sometimes when you come and come To that middle stitch marker it's a little tough to go past it to make sure you're picking up the right Stitches, but like I said if you just continue on You should be a-okay You Now we'll go ahead and just forward fast forward just a little bit until we get to the end of this road just so that This video is not going to be too extremely long So let's go ahead and do that You Okay, so now that we've come to we're coming to the end of the sock On this side so what we want to do is we want to make sure that We count our stitches as we did before to make sure that we have picked up 32 stitches or the number that you need on This side of the sock So in my case I have picked up too many stitches So just slide your needle back and take out the number of stitches that you don't need and reinsert your needle And you should be fine, so go ahead and pull your cord through of course you want to make sure that you leave A loop on the other end because this is magic loop right so now I've turned my sock around and I want to get into Ready position, but what the first thing we're going to do Is we are going to? snip the Stitch that's being held by the red locking stitch marker here's the fun part or at least I think it's the fun part the unpicking so go ahead and grab you a good pair of scissors and What you want to do is you want to snip? Make sure and only snip That first that stitch that's being held, so you want to get either another set of needles Or in my case. I just pull through a little bit I'm gonna use the needles that I actually am knitting with but whatever your preference is you can grab another Second set of needles and start unpicking now. I will tell you I had the most difficult time on picking this particular sock And I think it was because of how I picked up the stitches somehow this the The yarn was interlocked so I think I may have this was and this is what happens sometimes when you split stitches when you're picking them up your Unpicking of the stitches is not as clean as you would like it But unfortunately you just kind of have to work through it and hope that You picked up your stitches a little bit more cleanly than I did on this sock The struggles are real guys You So I might not be the best example for I'm picking these stitches in this particular video But just know that if you pick up your stitches cleanly you shouldn't have any struggles, but like I said This is real life here, and if you are a first-time Afterthought heal this this could happen to you, so I'm gonna go ahead and let you See the struggles through this video. I might speed it up toward the end But like I said, I did have issues picking up these stitches and Like I said, this is this is real life for me I'm not a perfectionist when it comes to knitting but I kind of my kind of a go-with-the-flow kind of person so if you are a Perfectionist this probably would drive you a little crazy, but like I said in the end if you just take your time and Go through pick up your stitches correctly Then you may not have some of the issues that I have had this is the first time actually that I've had issues picking Picking the stitches apart, so I'm not exactly I couldn't really tell you exactly what happened I think I split some stitches because sometimes when I'm doing tutorials It's kind of hard to knit when the camera is kind of in your face, so I'm not blaming that on that but that very well could have been what happened in this situation so Anyway, so like I said just continue to unpick your stitches We're going to do once. I like to do one side normally and then come back and do the other side But that is absolutely a personal preference you can do you can split you can pick up the stitches on some some on one side And then come back and pick up stitches on the other side or you can go back and forth. There's no right or wrong to How you pick up the stitches? Okay, so now we we seem to be past the sticky part so pulling Unraveling the yarn is going to go by much faster Now the key to having an afterthought heals with no holes is to make sure that you do not Unravel to the very end of your sock Okay, so you want to continue to unpick your stitches until you have about two stitches left on this side of the sock and Therefore that's going to keep you from getting a hole in your in your sock So just like I said just continue to unpick until you have two stitches left on this side Okay guys you see right here I Accidentally split a stitch from the back side of the other sock when I was picking it up It's kind of hard to explain, but I'm going to fix that when I get ready to start Knitting again, but I did I split the stitch from the back side I don't know how I did that, but I did like I said, this is a real-life knitting You Okay, so now we have two stitches left on This side of the sock So just take that tail in and just tuck it in tuck it on the inside of the sock So now we want to start on the other side And we want to do the exact same thing we want to unpick all of our stitches until we have two stitches left on this side Okay, so I'm going to speed up on this side because I don't want you to necessarily see the struggles on this side as well Because you saw them on the first side, but just um pick up pick all of your stitches until you have two Stitches left on that side as well, and we'll come back and I'll tell you what's next You So now we've come to the last two stitches on this side, and we are going to take our yarn and put it on the inside and I ended up having to cut part of my yarn out on this side because it was stuck so bad so now my tail is a little too short, but we'll fix that at the end of The sock one over when we are weaving in our ends So look guys we have a nice hole in our back sock for our heel like I said, don't worry about that part That's hanging on. I'm gonna fix that in just a moment so now we want to get back to now we want to get to Magic Loop ready position, and we want to grab our contrast yarn color Because now we are going to start knitting with the secondary color and You're going to start the same way that you did with the ribbing. We're going to leave about a six inch tail On our secondary color we're going to like I said get back to ready position by inserting our needle back into the sock and we are going to pull the back needle long and We are now ready to start knitting with our second color So insert your needle into the first loop drape your new color over pull it through, so you knit one stitch off and now drop the tail of that second yarn and Start knitting in the round now. You'd normally with the afterthought heel. You would usually knit It not actually it's a personal preference once again. You can knit two full rounds to give your Afterthought heel a little bit more depth, but for me. I find that I need to knit a full five Knit rows even rows before before even starting the decrease because of the way that my heel is Okay guys, so the way that I picked up my stitches all of mine Stitches on this side or oriented the incorrect way so basically they're sitting on the needle backwards So in order to fix that I would I'm going to just knit through the back loop and that will twist twist the stitch the correct way or you can take the stitch off the Needle and orient it back the correct way, and then just knit normally so now we've come to the stitch where I accidentally picked up Split the stitch on the back, and I'm sorry that I got this off of camera but basically what I did was I slid that stitch off and And made sure that that split stitch was was put back on Correctly so that it disconnected from that back stitch I know it's hard to explain But just know that I fixed it and so now we're going to continue to knit across the front stitch and as I said I am knitting through the back loop of each of these stitches because of the way that I picked up these stitches And if you are a knitter of any time you'll know when your stitches are backwards. It just feels funny When you get ready to insert your stitch and also you can look at your stitches and tell that they are oriented Incorrectly, and if you notice that like I said you can just knit through the back loop as I'm doing here on every single stitch or Change the orientation of the stitch correct it put it back on the needle, and there's knit it normally so I forgot to tell you to go ahead and place a stitch marker Or locking stitch marker marker on this side of your sock underneath where you're knitting so that you'll know that You're at the beginning of the round when you get to decide So now we're done with the first side of the sock and So you want to take your new colorway the tails and make sure you put those on the inside of the sock So that we can weave those in later But as I said earlier If you want to go ahead and knit five extra rounds five five rounds or even on your sock you definitely can do that you May have a little bit more room than you intend to it's strictly up to you I know that when I met my first afterthought heel I only knit knit two even rounds before the decreases, and it wasn't quite enough so I adjusted that On future socks, so honestly it is really up to you as to How many even rounds you want to knit before you start your? Decreases so you will continue knitting in the round for the specified number of Stitches that you would like I'm sorry the specified number of rows that you would like and then we will come back here And start the decrease row So on this row as well I had to knit through the back Stitches the back because I orient these and when I picked up the stitches on this side as well They were oriented incorrectly which is not a big deal So just knit your stitches based on how they are oriented on the on the needle and you should be fine But once you do this once you or once you knit through the back loop or you reorient them correctly? You don't have to worry about that with the rest of the sock because they will be oriented the correct way You So now we knit one even row a round of knitting for our socks So I'm going to pull back the camera so you get a better angle So we are going to continue to knit evenly in the round based on the number of rows that are Desired for your sock before we start the decreasing Okay, so I have knit my five even rows and I wrote you earlier that I place the stitch marker on this side So I would know when I got to this side I was at the beginning of the round so we're going to now start the decrease row we're going to decrease at the beginning and the end of each side of the sock So now we need to get to ready position And we are going to begin our decrease row so the first thing we're going to do is we're going to knit the first stitch and Then we are going to perform an SSK Which is a slip slip knit stitch? Go in as if to knit and you're going to slip that stitch off on The second one you're going to do the exact same thing go in as if to knit and slip it off And then you're going to take your left needle and put it in front of those two stitches And then you're going to knit those stitches off and now you have made one decrease So now you're going to knit across the stitches on the front needle all the way to you get to The last three stitches on this needle, and I'll tell you what to do next You So now we're down to the last three stitches on the front needle, so now we are going to perform a knit two together for these neck twos next two stitches by Inserting your needle into the next two stitches and knitting those together And now you've made one decrease and then on the last stitch you're just going to do a normal knit stitch Turn your work over get back to ready position for Magic Loop and Then we're going to do the exact same thing on the back needle So we're going to insert our needle into the first stitch on the back side We're going to knit the first stitch and then we're going to perform an SSK as we did earlier slip slip knit Put the needle in the front of those two slipped stitches And then we're going to knit those two together and knit those off of the stitch off of the needle and it will be a decrease and Then we're going to go ahead and knit across To the other end of the sock until we have three stitches left on that end and we will perform a knit two together You Okay, so now we're down to the last three stitches We will perform a knit two together and then knit the last stitch on this Needle, so what's going to happen Now is the next row is just going to be a complete round of knitting even with no decreases so what's so what we're going to do is we're going to do a decrease row and A knit even row and a decrease row until we are down to the desired number of stitches that we want to have So for me the general rule of thumb is however many stitches that you cast on for the toe Would be the number of stitches that you would decrease down to for the heel so I cast on fourteen stitches for The heel me and sorry for the toe So I'm going to decrease down to fourteen stitches on the heel So I'm not going to show you the decrease and the increase row because I've just shown you right now So I'm gonna fast forward This until we till I have gotten down to the fourteen stitches because I'd like I said as earlier I don't want this tutorial to be just too too lengthy So we're back and we are down to the desired number of stitches that we would like So here I would advise you if you would like because we are not going to I'm not going to show you the Kitchener stitch This is where you would perform the Kitchener stitch if you were Going to I would put in a lifeline here just in case you do not like the alternative method that I'm about to show you and that way you can rip out the sock and go back and put in the Kitchener stitch if you need to So I just want to mention that I do not own any rights to any of the techniques in this tutorial This the new behind off that I'm going to show you I saw on Addicted to sock knitting Facebook group that was knitted that was posted by one of their members her name was Melanie Carol, and what she likes to do instead of the Kitchener stitch she just likes to do a knit two all the way around and Close off her hoes as you would the top of a head? So this is a method that I tried for These socks for the heel I literally just knit two together all the way round around and then I closed up the the Heel as if I would have had now. Here's what I have learned from this technique from knitting This this way on the back of the sock. I think that I should have Decreased a little bit further than 14 stitches because of this method because I think the decrease on this basically almost negated the 5 even rows that I Knit evenly forth to give me a little bit extra room so like I said this was my first time trying this method and Basically you're going to knit like I said knit two stitches together all the way around very simple very very simple And gives you a nice look on the heel But I should have probably decreased down to at least 10 stitches and That way that would have given me the extra room that I need it on in this sock now This is a disclaimer that I'm going to tell you about this method. I have not Worn this sock with this by knitting the two at a time On here, so I don't know how it's gonna wear in comparison to the Kitchener stitch. I think that knitting Is just a work of art, and you you need to try things And I am definitely one of those people to try things I don't like my needing to be stressful the Kitchener stitch is not stressful. It's just something that I have to look up Every time that I do it because I don't do it often so I think doing the knit two togethers that's very intuitive to me and I actually like the look of it at the end when I when I when I finished it so Like I said I tried it in this tutorial to give you an alternative to the Kitchener stitch But like I said I would advise you that if you're going to do it to knit too decrease a little bit further Then pass the number of stitches that you started with Just to give you a little bit more room in the heel if you need it, okay So now I'm done with knitting the the knit twos together all the way around so I'm going to cut my yarn as if I would the top of the Hat, so I'm going to thread a tapestry needle And I couldn't find the one that I needed for This tutorial so I had to make do with a smaller one and let me tell you that was a little challenging But just go ahead and thread your needle through your tapestry needle, and I'll show you what to do next Okay, so now I've got my tapestry needle threaded so now we're just going to start threading the the tapestry needle through each of the stitches and basically taking those off of the needle And we're going to continue to do that on all of the needle all of the stitches on the front needle until they are completely Taken off, and then we are basically going to pull the yarn through those stitches and We are going to pull pull those generously through until the whole entire tail of the yarn is through all of those stitches And Then we're going to turn around turn the sock around and do the same thing for the back stitches just Take those off and I've actually need to pull the needle through to the other end To orient that correctly to get those actually to slide off of the needle so push your needle Your stitches through your needle And get those oriented right now. Go ahead and slide those off of the needle onto I'm sorry off of the your knitting needle onto your tapestry needle, and then you gonna pull those through Just like you would the top of a hat So now you can see why I think I should have decreased a little bit further because it actually tightened up my heel Just a little more than I would have liked to but I think I can negate that by adding a few more rows of knits and decreases so now you're going to take your what I do is I take my Needle and take it and put it through the hole, and I will turn the sock inside out To close up that hole, and then I would just basically Weave in my ends too to close up the hole Now like I said I have not worn this sock to see how it wears with this type of a closure But I don't see how it would be any different than If you were to do this procedure or do this technique for the toes and like I said Melanie hasn't had any issues on her socks With Doing this for the toes, so I figure you know what I'll just try it for the heel so That is the alternative for the Kitchener stitch I don't know if you're going to like it or not like I said it is restricting up to you Whether you want to try it, but it's just nice to have an alternative if you don't like the Kitchener stitch And there's no scientific way to weave in your hands just make sure you do the best that you can and that you've closed up the hole on the Stitches you do want to make sure they're nice and even You may want to make sure that they're even When you're doing this because you don't want any bulk to be on the back of your heel because that may be a little bit Of a discomfort to you, but see as you as you can see it looks like it's a pretty good nice-looking heel with this type of method Okay, so this is what the heel looks like once you have Woven in the ends it's kind of a nice looking heel not too too bad, so We can compare it to the Afterthough Heel and see what which one you like the best as far as the aesthetics Okay, here. They are side by side the gray is the Alternative method the green is the Afterthought heel and as you can see the Afterthought heel has a little bit more of a boxier Look, but I think like I said if I had just decreased a little bit further with the gray it probably would have given me a little bit more room in the heel of the sock Okay, so let's turn our sock inside out so we can start weaving in our ends where we have the color changes so the first One up is where we change the color at the toe so remember How we just kind of tied it across to make a knot in a knot But just tied it in a loop so basically we're going to take each of those ends on The the color chain and we're going to weave those in going in the opposite direction so that It will so that the hole would stay closed up in our socks You Now remember to do this for every single color change that we had in this sock like I said just make sure There's no scientific method or knitting method for weaving and ends just make sure You get a good amount of That you are confident that you have woven in the ends so once you do this one side Then you'll go ahead and do the other side going the opposite direction and that should secure all of your color changes throughout all of the socks So go ahead and do that for all of the color changes that you have on the inside of the sock Okay guys so we are done with knitting our sock this tutorial has done a little bit longer than I Wanted it to but like I said, I wanted to explain everything in this tutorial and as you can see there are no holes in This sock on this side or the other side because we did not Take our stitches out all the way when we were doing the afterthought heel, so I hope you guys have enjoyed this tutorial please like and subscribe and let me know if there's any other things that you would like to see in tutorial form I Appreciate you giving me the love and support that you've given me on this channel And I definitely appreciate it so I will talk to you guys later Also, if you guys have any questions about something that I may not have covered in this tutorial Please do as you have always done and contact me Arsen leave me comments at the bottom of this Tutorial and I'll be more than happy to try to come back and explain or help you out on an individual basis. Okay. Bye bye You
