How To Install Wood Look Tile

update an old kitchen floor with wood look tile it combines the durability of tile with the beautiful appearance of hardwood we'll show you how to install it a basic tile installation has a solid subfloor a layer of thin set mortar a tile substrate like an uncoupling membrane or a cement backer board another layer of mortar tile grout and sealer here's a tip make sure the dishwasher will fit under the countertop once you install the tile underneath the tile can also affect the toe kicks prep is key to a successful tile project move out your appliances and remove any base molding the installation takes a few days so plan accordingly in some cases you can install over old vinyl flooring but it's best to get down to your subfloor to remove vinyl cut it into small pieces and pull it up from the subfloor a scraper and adhesive remover can be helpful to remove the vinyl glue your subfloor must be in good condition of proper thickness uniform and level clean and dry for wood sub floors make sure the panels are securely attached to the floor joists to verify the thickness of wood floors check a floor register or drill a small hole and note the bit depth 5/8 inch plywood should be sufficient for floor joists spaced every 16 inches add another layer of OSB or ply if your subfloor isn't thick enough next make sure it's uniform a flat subfloor is extremely important to keep plank tiles from cracking use the levelling compound on low spots or sand high spots finally make sure your subfloor is dry and clean with the subfloor prepped you can install the substrate the two options are cement backer board or a thinner waterproof uncoupling membrane which is ideal for kitchens before you install the substrate prep the door jambs stack a floor tile on a piece of the substrate against the trim use a saw to cut it about 1/16 inch above the tile and cut doors 1/8 inch above the tile we're using the uncoupling membrane roll it across the floor and cut it to length accounting for a quarter inch perimeter expansion gap set it aside and spread latex Portland cement mortar with the flat side of the trowel then comb over it in straight lines place the underlayment on top and use a float to press it into the mortar continue installing across the room cutting the underlayment to fit where needed mark floor registers so you can cut them later waterproofing the seams is a good idea in the kitchen spread unmodified thinset across the seams and press the waterproofing band over top be sure to cut out any floor registers allow the thinset to cure following the manufacturer's instructions then you can mark your starting line mark the center of two opposing walls or cabinets and snap a chalk line on the floor hairspray can keep the chalk from rubbing off do the same on the other walls or cabinets to form a cross and check that it's square measure from the center to the starting wall subtract the quarter-inch expansion gap and the width of two tiles and spacers mark this distance at the ends snap the line between to get a straight line near the wall do a dry layout with spacers to see if you'll have skinny pieces near the perimeter make adjustments and Reese nap your starting line if needed position a straight edge on the line and hold it in place with bags of mortar or grout you'll start laying the tile with this row mix unmodified thinset for large format tile following the directions spread it over a small work area pressing it into the cavities of the underlayment now spread additional thin set and comb it with the notched side of a half inch by half inch notched trowel held at a forty-five degree angle don't make swirls next back butter a tile with a little bit of mortar and press and twist the tile into the thin set along the straight edge make sure to collapse the mortar ridges finish laying the tile for the first couple of rows placing eighth inch spacers in between and frequently checking that the tiles are even and level after a couple of rows are down you can install the row against the wall where you use the straight edge continue laying the floor a few rows at a time stagger the joints no more than one-third the length of tile a wider stagger might cause lippisch a difference in height between adjacent tiles because long plank tiles are often crowned in the middle periodically check the tile backs to make sure there's full contact between the mortar and tile if not back butter again or use a trowel with larger notches at row ends you'll need to cut the planks just mark and cut with a tile cutter or wet saw at doorways install transitions while the thinset is still wet also as you're working wipe up excess mortar with a wet sponge remember to leave a quarter-inch expansion gap between the tile and wall after the thin set is cured for 24 hours apply a tile sealer following the directions then you can grout the joints try to match the tile color for that hardwood floor appearance mix the grout following the directions usually a paste like consistency press it into the joints with a rubber float pulling it diagonally across the joints and removing the excess do not fill the expansion gaps along the wall after about 20 minutes wipe the grout lines with a clean wet sponge remaining residue can be removed with a haze remover after grouting don't walk on the floor for about 24 hours when the grout has dried apply silicone sealant to the expansion joints and apply a grout sealer to help prevent stains then reinstall the moldings finally replace everything in your kitchen a new floor with the benefits of tile and the handsome look of hardwood want more great ideas and how-tos go to lowes.com/howto you

Channel: Lowe's Home Improvement

Views: 3,332,185

Keywords: how to, diy, lowe's, lowes, how to install wood look tile, wood look flooring, tile wood flooring, tile wood floor, ceramic wood tile, wood like tile, hardwood tile, wood floor tiles, wood grain tiles, install tile floor, how to install wood tile

Id: tApnYAUB6RM

Length: 6min 31sec (391 seconds)

Published: Thu Jun 09 2016