- Hi, I'm Manny. I'm here with DRICORE talking SMARTWALL. Why DRICORE SMARTWALL? The basement is a unique space. And it's a demanding
environment to finish. Unlike the rest of your house, the basement sits below ground level and is surrounded by soil
that remains cold and wet. When traditionally finishing a basement, this can pose many problems. However, by applying some
basic building science to the design process, the basement can be safely finished. That's why choosing the
right finishing materials for your basement is a crucial step towards creating a safe and
healthy living environment for years to come. SMARTWALL is a high-performance, prefabricated wall panel design specifically for basement finishing. Taking everything we know
about building science, SMARTWALL has been developed to withstand the unique ecosystem
of a basement environment and it is used anywhere
concrete walls are present. DRICORE SMARTWALL incorporates
rigid foam insulation that has been infused with graphite. Meaning, the cold never meets
the warm side of the room. Therefore, greatly reducing
the potential for condensation. SMARTWALL is a panelized system. Each panel is 23 inches wide and it comes in a standard
eight or 10 foot lengths. Panels can be cut to fit
any desired ceiling height or basement layout. When finished, SMARTWALL will look like
every other wall in your home and it can be painted to suit your taste. DRICORE SMARTWALL has been developed with one goal in mind. to offer the smartest product available for residential basement finishing, and it's backed by building science. time for me to get to work. Tools required: Two inch and
six inch drywall trowels, hand saw, drill, and drill bit. Two sawhorses or stands,
chalk line, plumb line, level, tape measure, wood shims, four inch hole saw, if
needed, and safety goggles. Materials required: SMARTWALL
panels, DRICORE Patchpro two by two dimensional
lumber, five inch screws two and a half inch
screws, electrical wire, plugs and switches, polyethylene for vapor
barrier tie-in if required. To calculate how many panels you need, you take the linear footage
of the installation area and you divided it by 1.8. This formula takes into
account, cuts in waste. Determine how many electrical outlet and light switch panels you will require. If you are installing a DRICORE
Subfloor, do this first, and then install SMARTWALL on top. Step one, installing two by two cleating. Install the two by two cleating
material around the room. Now I'm going to measure a half inch away from our foundation concrete because concrete is never
absolutely perfect plump. So I'm going to give myself half inch and then I'm going to measure
another inch and a half. That's giving us two inches. From two inches, I'm gonna put a mark and then I'm going to drop
that down with a plumb line. So get my mark down there
for my bottom cleat. We're gonna measure two and five eights and that's going to be the
back of the bottom cleat. So that's how things are gonna begin. Start at the floor joist that make up your basement ceiling. Attach in the two by two cleats
using two and a half inch number eight wood screws. Start with the cleats
that run perpendicular to your floor joist. the top cleats may be installed
touching in the corners. Once all the top cleats are installed, drop a plumb line from
each end of each wall from the inside edge of the cleat and mark the floor surface. What I've done is I've
taken the plumb line, dropped my line from the
face of the top cleat, and then I measured out two
and five eights from that line. Place the bottom two by two
cleat with the back edge up to the chalk line. So now, I'm ready to actually
put the panels inside. Leave a two inch space
at each bottom corner. Make sure you level the cleats
using wood shims if needed since almost all basement
floors will slope towards the floor drain area and level cleats will ensure that the wire channels align perfectly. step two: installing panels. always start from the left
side of your longest wall. Measure the top of the
panel, not the bottom, when you want to cut. Cut the top of the panel to size, never cut from the bottom. Loosely secure the panel using two and a half inch
screws at each bottom corner and five inch screws at each top corner. You will fully tighten these screws after the next panel is in place. Ensure the screws penetrate
through the OSB framing and into the two by two lumber cleat. Once the first panel was installed, cut the next panel to length. Align the tongue of the first panel with the groove of the second panel, and push the second panel
tightly against the first panel. Once the two panels are
tightly fitted together, now tighten the screws on the first panel. Repeat for the third panel, and after it is tightly fitted
against the second panel, then tighten the screws
on the second panel. This makes fitting the
panels together much easier. Repeat the sequence for
the remaining panels, as you work around the room. Use wall plug and light
switch panels as needed. Continue this process until you have reached
the end of the wall. Cut the last panel to width. Step three: inside corners. Test fit the panel in the corner to ensure that both the
wall you just finished and the wall you're
about to start are plump. If the inside corner joint is tight, then place a bead of PL premium adhesive along the length of the foam of the panel you're about to install. Carefully slide this panel into place, and then fasten with four
screws, One in each corner. Windows, determine the dimensions and location of the window box required. Mark the dimensions on the
surface of the SMARTWALL panels add an additional two and a quarter inches to the width and the height of the opening to allow for a plywood window extension and for any minor adjustments. Make sure the opening is
centered with the actual window. Cut your opening into SMARTWALL panels with a handsaw and install
the panels as normal. You are now ready to build a rough frame from five-eights plywood and
install it into the open. Step four: outside corners. When building an outside corner
you wanna cut back the foam three and three quarters of an
inch, right to the dry wall. That's gonna allow for you
to fit the adjacent piece. Once ready, put a thick bead of PL premium on the backside of the drywall where you just removed the foam, about two inches in from the edge. Before you put them together, you want to put a bead
of PL on both sides, squeeze them together, add a few drywall screws
to hold it in place, And that's how you
build an outside corner. Self-adhesive corner beads, and we're going bullnose with these guys. Step five: electrical wire. Once your wall system
is completely installed. you can rough in your wires. There's two ways to fish
wire through these panels. They've got three horizontal channels, so I fish it through here as I'm installing each of the panels. I've got the panel, I take the wire, and I
just fish it right through. And I get it into position,
and this into the tongue. Pick the next panel. You grab the wire and you
just, fish it through. That was easy. Otherwise, the wiring can be run after all SMARTWALL panels are installed by using a wire fish. a licensed electrician
can install the wiring after SMARTWALL has been installed. Step six: finishing. To achieve a perfect seamless
finish with DRICORE SMARTWALL use DRICORE Patchpro to
fill and smooth panel seams. DRICORE patch pro is crack resistant, and sands to a smooth, hard finish, ready for priming or painting. Time to do a little bit of finishing, So it's not like the traditional
way of doing plastering. You want to use a three
to four inch putty knife. You wanna squeeze it
right into the micro edge, nice and tight. And then you want to
squeeze off the excess. That's it. That's all you gotta do. Let that dry for 24 hours. Okay. I'm just applying the
second coat of Patchpro. You're doing it the same
way as the first coat and you just scrape off the excess and third coat's gonna be the
same way with a light sand, no fuss no muss, Ready for prime and painting
in any color you like.
